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NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEET BASED SQUALANE and HEMISQUALANE & THEIR COSMETIC APPLICATIONS Izmir, 03 rd of Nov 2016

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Page 1: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEET BASED

SQUALANE and HEMISQUALANE&

THEIR COSMETIC APPLICATIONS

I zm i r, 03 r d o f Nov 2016

Page 2: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

SAFIC-ALCAN TURKEY;LIFE SCIENCESOut l i ne Agenda

Page 3: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

Outline Agenda

• SQUALANE & HEMISQUALANE ; at a Glance

• SQUALANE

Specification, Regulatory, Properties, Cosmetic Applications and Comparisions with Shark & Olive derived Squalanes, Manufacturing Process

• HEMISQUALANE

Specification, Regulatory, Properties, Cosmetic Applications

• SAFIC-ALCAN TURKEY LAB

Page 4: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

• As a new trend, Squalane and Hemisqualane are both manufactured from sugarcane/sugar beet because of its cost and availability and to meet international standards of sustainability by the help of fermentation by employing yeast similar to those used to make wines, breads, and beers, thus it is obtained high performing, sustainable alternatives to chemical and petroleum based products.

• Squalane and Hemisqualane are derived from farnesene that is produced from fermentation of sugar-based feedstock (sugarcane from Brasil and/or sugarbeet from EU) using an engineered, non-pathogenic, common strain of yeast, Saccharomyces cerevisiae, or S. cerevisiae. The wildtype strain of S. cerevisiae is engineered in a targeted fashion to over-express the native yeast mevalonate pathway and produce farnesene, a sesquiterpene which is naturally occurring in some plants and insects. Such biotechnology process has been designed from plant to product to meet current environmental and health standards

• Hemisqualane manufacturing process is very similar to the sugarcane /sugar beet squalane process, after the fermentation process it follows hydrogenation, and purification. It is natural alternative for petroleum- based paraffin and silicone ingredients. Min 99% purity of fully saturated C15 hydrocarbons.

SQUALANE & HEMISQUALANE ; at a Glance

Page 5: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

SQUALANEfrom Sugarcane/Sugar Beet

Product CAS number: 111-01-3 EINECS number: 203-825-6

IUPAC name: 2,6,10,15,19,23-hexamethyltetracosaneINCI name: Squalane

Molecular Formula: C30H62Molecular weight: 422,81

Page 6: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

SQUALANE ; Specification LimitsTest Description Specification Limits

Minimum MaximumUnit of Measure Test Method

Purity by Gas Chromatograpy 92Area %

SOP00188A

Density @ 20 °C 0,806 0,811

g/cm3SOP00222A

Refractive Index @ 20 °C 1,449 1,453 SOP00222A

Iodine Value 2

mg I2 / 100 g SOP00218A

Acid Value0,5

mg KOH / g SOP00195A

Odor Nearly Odorless SOP00194A

Total Ash 0,1 Percent SOP00223A

Appearance and Color Colorless Liquid SOP00221A

Page 7: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

• BSE/TSE Free

• Plant based

• No-animal testing

• Does not contain any of the 26 fragrance allergens

• Non-GMO feedstock

• No wheat protein, gluten-free

• No food allergen

• No pesticide

SQUALANE; Regulatory Declaration Statements

• No paraben, no preservative

• No CMR (Carcinogens, Mutagens, nor

Reprotoxic)

• Non-nano

• Does not contain any California

Proposition 65 listed chemicals

• Manufactured in the US

• Having GMP (ISO 22716)

Page 8: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

• Sourced from sugarcane/ sugar

beet; renewable

• Readily Biodegradable; Method OECD 301B

• ECOCERT-approved

• USDA Certified 100% bio based

SQUALANE; Peace of Mind

Sustainability• Consistent composition, high level of purity

• 100% fully saturated hydrocarbons (min 99% fully saturated C30)

• Non-polar

• Stable to heat, cold, oxidation and UV

• It has better purity profile and cold resistance than olive squalene, it stays clear after 24 hours at 4°C.

• Chemically inert

• Non-irritating

• Non-sensitizing

Features and Benefits

Page 9: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

COSMETIC APPLICATIONS

SQUALANE

Page 10: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

• Skin, Hair, Sun and Body Care, Baby Care, Makeup primers, Lipstick/Lip glosses, Foundations, Cleansers.

• Recommended usage up to 100%• Required HLB 12 ±1• Oil soluble, water insoluble• Good spreadability• Compatible with silicones, lipophilic ingredients• Non-polar

SQUALANE; Cosmetic Applications

Page 11: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

SQUALANE; Proven Performance*

• Increases cell turnover

• Provides a silky, smooth and luxurious touch, without a greasy, heavy after feel.

• Naturally presents in the human sebum up to 2,6%

• Non-comedogenic

• Provides long-lasting moisturization

• Enhances skin barrier integrity

• Improves skin elasticity

• Reduces the appearance of fine lines, and wrinkles

• Improves skin elasticity

*Purchasers are solely responsible for ensuring compliance of their cosmetic products with all applicable regulatory

requirements, including claims regarding the effect of squalane on skin and hair

• Prevents moisture loss and nourishes

• Provides heat protection and strengthens hair

• Penetrates the hair shaft

• Improves shine

• Enhances elasticity and prevents breakage

• All tests were done after one treatment with 2% Squalane (in-vitro studies on hair tresses)

SKIN CARE HAIR CARE

Page 12: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

SQUALANE; Proven Performance*

REDUCES TEWL by 18% INCREASES CELL TURNOVER by 34% vs Untreated, 17% vs Placebo

REDUCES APPEARANCE OF WRINKLES by 51%*Purchasers are solely

responsible for ensuring

compliance of their cosmetic

products with all applicable

regulatory requirements,

including claims regarding

the effect of squalane on

skin and hair

Page 13: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

FIRST GENERATION: SHARKAn unsustainable source

Deep sea sharks are endangered species according to the Int. Union for Conservation of NatureAnimal-derivedHighly controversialForbidden by law in many regions, such as Europe Brand reputation riskFrequent availability and price issues due to EU ban of net shark fishing

SECOND GENERATION: OLIVEA volatile source

Frequent availability and procurement issuesPrice volatility due to climate and crop fluctuations Quality variability

THIRD GENERATION: SUGARA sustainable source

Stable supplyConsistent qualityINCI name: SqualaneDerived from plant sugar100% USDA Bio-basedECOCERT-approvedReadily biodegradableBetter purity profile and cold resistance than olive squalane

SQUALANE; Comparisions

Page 14: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

SQUALANE; Manufacturing Process

Page 15: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016
Page 16: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016
Page 17: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

HEMISQUALANEfrom Sugarcane/Sugar Beet

Product CAS number: 3891-98-3 EINECS number: 622-542-2

IUPAC name: 2,6,10,-trimethyldodecane INCI name: C13-C15 Alkane (other name Farnesane)

Molecular Formula: C15H32Molecular weight: 212,41

Page 18: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

HEMISQUALANE ; Specification LimitsTest Description Specification Limits

Minimum MaximumUnit of Measure Test Method

Purity by Gas Chromatograpy 95Area %

TM-0008

Density @ 20 °C 0,761 0,776

g/cm3SOP00222A

Refractive Index @ 20 °C 1,425 1,435 SOP00222A

Iodine Value 0,5

mg I2 / 100 g SOP00218A

Acid Value0,1

mg KOH / g SOP00195A

AppearaanceLiquid SOP00207A

ColorColorless Percent SOP00221A

Odor Nearly Odorless ASTM E544

Page 19: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

• BSE/TSE Free

• Plant based

• No-animal testing

• Does not contain any of the 26 fragrance allergens

• Non-GMO feedstock

• No wheat protein, gluten-free

• No food allergen

• No pesticide

HEMISQUALANE; Regulatory Declaration Statements

• No paraben, no preservative

• No CMR (Carcinogens, Mutagens, nor Reprotoxic)

• Non-nano

• Does not contain any California Proposition 65 listed chemicals

• Manufactured in the US

• Having GMP (ISO 22716)

• General compliance with US and EU cosmetic laws

Page 20: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

• Sourced from sugarcane,

sugar beet; renewable

• Inherently Biodegradable

• ECOCERT-approved

• USDA Certified 100% bio

based

HEMISQUALANE; Peace of Mind

Sustainability• Consistent composition, high level of

purity

• Min 95% fully saturated C15

• Non-polar

• Stable to heat, cold, oxidation and UV

• Chemically inert

• Non-irritating

• Non-sensitizing

Features and Benefits

Page 21: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

COSMETIC APPLICATIONS

HEMISQUALANE

Page 22: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

• Skin, Hair, Sun and Body Care, Makeup, Makeup removers, Cleansers, Antiperspirants and Deodorants.

• Recommended usage up to 55%• Short play time for face and eye creams• Oil soluble, water insoluble• Good spreadability• Compatible with silicones, lipophilic ingredients• Non-polar

HEMISQUALANE; Cosmetic Applications

Page 23: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

HEMISQUALANE; Proven Performance*

• Silky, smooth and elegant texture , without a greasy, heavy after feel.(lipsticks, foundations)

• Perfect natural alternative for petroleum-based paraffin and silicone ingredients

• Light and dry emolient• High Spreadability• Great sensorial profile, non-volatile

but very close to Isohexadecane and cyclometicone properties

• Softer than Dicaprylyl Carbonate• Able to solve crystalline UV filters• Excellent cleansing properties for

make up removal, including waterproof formulations like mascaras, better than isododecane

• Non-comedogenic *Purchasers are solely responsible for ensuring compliance of their cosmetic products with all applicable regulatory

requirements, including claims regarding the effect of squalane on skin and hair

• Provides color protection• Reduces frizz• Delivers heat protection and prevents

damage (15%)• Penetrates the hair shaft • Provides easier combing, low friction

coefficient (dry 27-wet 30%)• Leaves hair silky and smooth• Prevents moisture loss (6-10%) and

nourishes• Provides heat protection (8%) and

strengthens hair• Enhances elasticity (7%) and prevents

breakage

SKIN CARE HAIR CARE

Page 24: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

HEMISQUALANE; Proven Performance*

HIGH SPREADABILITY, better than Isohexadecane and Isododecane REDUCES FRIZZ by 29%

IMPROVES COLOR MAINTANENCE by 30%*Purchasers are solely

responsible for ensuring

compliance of their cosmetic

products with all applicable

regulatory requirements,

including claims regarding

the effect of squalane on

skin and hair

Page 25: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

HEMISQUALANE; Proven Performance*

Foundation Lipstick Mascara

*Purchasers are solely

responsible for ensuring

compliance of their cosmetic

products with all applicable

regulatory requirements,

including claims regarding

the effect of squalane on

skin and hair

on trans pore tape (Transpore, 3M Health care),performed by Nikko Chemicals Co., Ltd.

After Hemisqualane Treatment

After Isododecane Treatment

Cleansing Property

Page 26: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

SAFIC-ALCAN TURKEY LAB

Page 27: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

Safic-Alcan Turkey; Life Sciences Lab Equipments

• Drying Oven-Poleko SLN 53

• Temperature Controlled Magnetic Stirrer -2 X IKA RCT Standard

• Mechanical Stirrer-IKA RW 20 Digital

• Homogenizer-IKA T25 Digital Ultra Turrax

• Fume Cupboard with Heater-NIV Makine

• Brookfield Viscometer DV2T

• TOPO MS-E Heating Mantle

• Precision Balance, 3 kg with (0,01)

• Precision Balance, 620 gr with (0,001)

• pH Meter-Ohaus

• Centrifuge-Hettich EBA 200

• Microscope 1600 X

• Refractometer; 0-90

• Balloon Heater, 250 ml

• Ultrasonic Bath- Bandelin Sonorex (3 lt with heater)

Page 28: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

SAFIC-ALCAN TURKEY-LIFE SCIENCES; APPLICATION LAB

Page 29: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

SAFIC-ALCAN TURKEY-LIFE SCIENCES; APPLICATION LAB

Page 30: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016
Page 31: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016

Thank you

Page 32: NEW GENERATION SUGARCANE/SUGAR BEETBASED SQUALANE … · new generation sugarcane/sugar beetbased squalane and hemisqualane & their cosmetic applications izmir, 03rdof nov 2016