museum textile- silk conservation treatment of a civil war general’s tailcoat, jenniferhein...

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General William Haines Lytle’s 1863 Civil War Tailcoat with silk velvet tunic collar and brown chintz map pockets under the tails Conserved and restored Military Coat lining for Cincinnati Museum Center by Jennifer Hein 2006

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General Lytle's wool topcoat worn in 1862, owned by the Cincinnati Museum Center, erroneously dry cleaned by the previous owner-collector. This visual illustrates the treatment of shattered silk and the results of textile conservation.

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Page 1: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

General William Haines Lytle’s 1863 Civil War Tailcoat

with silk velvet tunic collar and brown chintz map pockets under the tails

Conserved and restored

Military Coat lining for

Cincinnati Museum Center

by Jennifer Hein 2006

Page 2: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein2

Civil War–CMC Tailcoat Condition 20051863 Navy Boiled Wool Exterior & Shredded Black

Silk Interior Lining with repair patch covers

Page 3: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein3

Conserved upper back and restored tailcoat lining

Conservation of upper chest

area

Restoration of Tailcoat lining

side panels

Conservation of Tailcoat

facing and brown chintz Map

Pockets creased and folded

in Tailcoat as originally

designed, covered with

transparent silk crepeline

Page 4: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein4

Shredded Silk lining (before) then Encased or after treatment

Page 5: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein5

General William Haines Lytle’s Civil War Tailcoat Lower Right and lower left waistbandBefore & After treatment photos

Page 6: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein6

Civil War Military Tunic Tailcoat Inside lining area

The Center Back area

is flattened only at this

point.

The 6 areas of the

waist center back and

sides are conserved

with the stitching

through the three layers

as in a quilt.

Page 7: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein7

CW Coat – Top back white areas are missing lining

Analysis showed typical

sandwich quilting treatment

to be most beneficial.

1st layer black cotton

2nd layer shredded silk

straightened

3rd layer polyester allusion,

net

Quilted through all with

100% cotton thread

Page 8: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein8

Before & after conservation of shredded silk lining in CW coat back

Page 9: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein9

Top back areas had more complete loss similar to the tailcoat lining.

White backing shows

degree of loss to lining

in this section.

Page 10: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein10

The shoulder pad quilting governed the treatment process.

The wool padded shoulder area was originally quilted for warmth.

To stabilize the area, it was covered with silk crepeline to give a

smooth surface for mounting yet allow viewing of the original

construction process.

Page 11: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein11

Chest area lining before & after crepeline cover

Page 12: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein12

CW Tunic Tailcoat Right Chest Area

Page 13: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein13

General Lytle’s Civil War Tunic Tailcoat The original silk shirting sleeve lining was fairly intact except the arm’s eye. It is secured by stitching net bands around the circumference and creating small pockets to encase weak areas of silk.

Page 14: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein14

General Lytle’s Wool Military Tailcoat Interior View of Upper Front Chest

Front chest area after

conservation of original

silk sleeve lining and

wool chest padding.

The wool and silk’s

original purpose was for

warmth and comfort.

Page 15: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein15

Tailcoat Map Pockets Left photo: during the process when I untacked the repair cover.Right photo: after with the transparent silk crepeline cover.

The brown chintz map pockets can be viewed to understand the

original function of the interior tailcoat pockets.

Page 16: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein16

Original Map Pockets & Silk Lining that remained in the tails. Before & After

Page 17: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein17

Gold lettering on black label:

McKee and Roth48 West Fourth St.

Cincinnati Facing & yellow gold silk cross tacking restored

Page 18: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein18

Visual Review of 1863 General Lytle’s Civil War Tailcoat Lining Treatment

Page 19: Museum Textile- Silk conservation treatment of a Civil War General’s Tailcoat, JenniferHein Conservation

Conservation by Jennifer Hein19

Before & After Treatment The Exterior has little change except button detailing. The real change is the inside lining which is now intact to mount for a display. The project was funded so you may view it at the

Cincinnati Museum Center.