moxie the doxy - amy gunson · moxie the doxy moxie the doxy is a quick, fun and easy pattern with...

Pattern includes detailed step by step instructions, full color

supplementary photographs and helpful tips. Also included are

several variations to help build your own unique litter of pups!

MOXIE THE DOXY

©AMY GUNSON 2010 BADSKIRT FOR HANDMADE HAPPINESS

B0201 – a002

MOXIE THE DOXY

Moxie the Doxy is a quick, fun and easy pattern with step by step directions, full

color photos and helpful tips for creating your own lovable litter of pups. Create your

own handmade happiness!

FABRICS

body - 2 pieces of fabric1 - 18” x 10”

legs - 2 pieces of fabric1 - 12” x 6”

ears - 2 pieces of fabric1 - 7” x 6”

tail - 2 pieces of fabric1 - 5” x 6”

NOTIONS

coordinating thread2

linen thread or durable string

polyester or wool toyfill

4 tiny buttons for eyes3

4 buttons ¾-1¼” for legs3

TOOLS

sewing machine

small hand-sewing needle

6-8” doll maker’s needle

sewing machine

fabric scissors

disappearing fabric marker or hera

tool

lacquered chopstick or turning tool

fabric pins4

pinking shears4

¼” or edgestitching foot4

1Quilting cottons, linens and tweeds

are suitable for this pattern. Avoid

fabrics with give or stretch, as they

tend to look unusual when stuffed.

Fabric sizes are approximate. Please

allow additional fabric for directional

prints or fussy cuts.

2When choosing thread, white or

cream thread will work for most light

colored fabrics. For darker colors, it’s

best to select a thread in a shade

matching your fabric. If the shade is

unavailable, select a thread lighter

than your fabric.

3Safety eyes and embroidery are also

suitable alternatives for the eyes. Leg

buttons may be omitted. Please see

government guidelines in your area

regarding small parts and children’s

toys.

4Optional tools not strictly necessary to

complete project, but they will make

the process quicker and easier.

©AMY GUNSON 2010, BADSKIRT

1

BADSKIRT WWW.BADSKIRT.COM MOXIE THE DOXY, ©AMY GUNSON 2010.

SEWING PATTERN PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT LAW AND MAY NOT BE SOLD, COPIED, EMAILED, OR OTHERWISE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHERS

INSTRUCTIONS

PREPARING YOUR PATTERN Begin by tracing the light blue pattern pieces from the two template pages or make a copy to work with. Do not cut your original. Keep it intact for future use. Make sure you mark the stitching points and gap indicated by the blue circles on the pattern. Do not worry about tracing the grey diagrams. They are for reference and will be intact on your original pattern.

Cut out your traced or copied pattern pieces. You should have five pattern pieces in total - tail, ear, leg, body front and body back. Join the body front and body back at the seam indicated on the pattern template.

CREATING THE BODY Place one piece of body fabric on your work surface face up so the correct side of your fabric faces you. Lay your second piece of body fabric face down on top of first piece. This creates a fabric sandwich with the right sides of the fabric facing.

For directional prints, check that the top of the fabric is oriented correctly.

Optionally pin the corners together to prevent slipping.

Trace the body pattern using a disappearing fabric marker, chalk pen or hera tool. Mark the gap indicated on the pattern template. Leave at least ½” fabric allowance around for seam allowance and to help with turning curves.

To sew the the doxy’s body, begin at the marked gap as indicated on the template page. Secure your stitching with a zero length stitch or very tiny back stitch. Do not sew into the gap as it will make turning and stuffing difficult later.

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INSTRUCTIONS

Using a small straight stitch, sew exactly on the marked line. Continue around until you reach the corner of the neck.

Tips: A small stitch length will make it easier to control your curves. Sew at a medium pace letting the fabric gently turn under your fingers.

When you reach the corner of the neck, ensure you sewing needle is in the down position. Lift your presser foot and pivot your fabric. Continue sewing along the traced line. Pivot again at the tip of the nose. Continue until your reach the opposite side of the gap. Secure your stitching. Do not sew the gap closed.

Trim around the outside of your stitches leaving approximately a ¼” fabric margin around the sides and a ½” fabric margin around the unstitched gap. This will make it easier to stitch closed by hand later. If you notch around curves, you will get a smoother result.

Tip: Pinking shears are a fast way to notch fabric. If you don’t have pinking shears, then use your regular scissors to cut out small triangles around your sewing. Be very careful not snip through your stitches.

Carefully trim away the point at the nose to reduce bulkiness. Do not to snip your stitching.

.

3



INSTRUCTIONS

Notch a small V into the chin corner to remove creases when you turn the body right side out. Cut carefully so you do not accidentally snip your stitches.

.

Turn the body right side out through the gap. Using your fingers, a chopstick or turning tool, gently work the body into the correct shape.

Tip: If you notice any irregularities or creases, it’s a good time to fix them. Some bulges can be fixed by notching tighter to your stitch line. Large kinks may need minor sewing adjustments to smooth curves.

Tuck in the excess fabric around the gap so that no raw edges show. Lightly finger press the fabric around the gap creating creased folds which will be useful for closing the gap later

.

SEWING THE LEGS Create a fabric sandwich with using the leg fabric. Make sure right sides are facing and your fabric is correctly oriented.

Tip: To align patterned fabric like stripes, leave a sizeable margin of fabric around the outside of one piece. You will be able to see a portion of the print in your fabric sandwich making it much easier to align the pattern.

4



INSTRUCTIONS

Trace the leg template four times onto your fabric leaving the gap indicated by the pattern. Make sure to leave at least ½” fabric allowance between the legs.

Tip: If your fabric isn’t directional, you can conserve fabric by alternating the legs so that one faces up then one faces down. Make sure to leave at least ½” between each for seam allowance. Not only does this conserve fabric, but it reduces cutting.

Sew around the first leg exactly on our traced line using a small stitch length. Secure your stitching at the beginning and end of the marked gap. Repeat for the remaining legs.

Cut out the legs leaving a ¼” fabric margin on the sides and ½” fabric margin at the open gap. Notch around the curves, then turn the legs right side out. As with the body, tuck the excess fabric into the legs and lightly finger press at the gap to create folds.

5



INSTRUCTIONS

SEWING THE EARS Create a fabric sandwich using the ear

fabric as we did for the legs and body. Check that right sides are facing and directional fabrics are oriented correctly. Trace the ear pattern two times onto your fabric. Mark the gap at the top of the ears as indicated by pattern.

Secure your stitching. Sew exactly on the outline that you have traced. Remember to use a small stitch length for smoother curves. Do not sew into the marked gap. Repeat for the second ear.

Cut out both ears leaving approximately a ¼” fabric margin around the stitching and ½” fabric margin at the unstitched gap at the top. Notch around the curves.

Turn the ears right side out. Using your chopstick, turning tool or finger, push out the fabric and smooth the curves. Tuck in the excess fabric around the opening so that no raw edges show. Lightly finger press the edges to create creased folds.

To finish the ears, topstitch around the outside edge. Using a normal size stitch length, sew around the around the edge of the ear creating a decorating line.

When you reach the top edge, pivot and continue across the gap. Make sure to catch all the raw edges in the stitching so they won’t pop out later.

Tip: a ¼” foot or edgestitching foot provide helpful guides for even topstitching.

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INSTRUCTIONS

After topstitching, there is a very good chance that your ears will curl like potato chips instead of lying flat. This curling is usually due to tension settings. Rather than try to correct it, just roll with it. The curls add a more natural look to the ears and add to your doxy’s character.

SEWING THE TAIL Repeating the process we used throughout, create a fabric sandwich for the tail. Trace the tail onto your fabric. Using a small stitch length, sew directly on the traced line leaving the gap at the tail base open. Do not forget to leave your needle in the down position while you pivot around the tip of the tail.

Tip: As the tail is sometimes fiddly to sew and turn, make two at the same time to improve your success rate. The fabric allowance is enough for two tails.

Cut out your tail leaving a ¼” fabric margin around the stitching and ½” fabric margin at the base. Notch around the curves and trim away excess fabric at the point. Gently using a chopstick or turning tool, turn your tail right side out. Tuck in the raw fabric at the gap and lightly finger press to create folds at the tail end

Tip: If you are stuck, do not force it or you will poke a hole in your tail. Gently roll the tail in your fingers and then work it a little further. Repeat until it is right side out.

STUFFING THE BODY AND LEGS To stuff the body and legs of your doxy, you’ll want to fluff you toyfill into very small pieces. Open your bag of stuffing and start pulling it into very small bits breaking up any clumps or matting caused through packaging. It’s conceivable that a small bag may cover your entire couch at this stage. This process is fun for the family to help out with and will make for a softer toy.

If you are using safety eyes, you need to insert them at this step. Refer to the instructions on your packaging for proper installation. Small parts can present a choking hazard, please see safety information at the end of this document.

Using very small pieces, stuff the legs. They should be firm, but not hard.

To stuff the body, begin using a chopstick or turning tool to work the toyfill into the point of the nose. Continue stuffing the body to your desired level of squishiness.

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INSTRUCTIONS

Using a ladder stitch, hand sew the opening of your body and legs securely closed. A ladder stitch creates hidden stitches in your work and eliminates the Frankenstein look of overcast stitching.

The basic ladder stitch is worked by drawing the thread from one side to the other. Stitches are taken just under the surface before continuing to the other side resulting in nearly invisible stitches. The creased folds created by finger pressing create an ideal surface to work the ladder stitch under.

STUFFING THE TAIL Using the tiniest pieces of toy fill, gently stuff your tail. Use a chopstick or turning tool to work your toyfill into the tip of the tail. Do not sew your tail base closed.

8



INSTRUCTIONS

ATTACHING THE LEGS This is the trickiest step in the process, but in truth it’s no more difficult than sewing on buttons. You’ll just be sewing them on with a very long needle.

Because your doxy’s legs will be subjected to wear and tear, it is important to use a durable thread like linen thread, perle embroidery floss or strong yarn.

Buttons on the legs are optional. The directions for omitting leg buttons follow below. For more information about buttons and small parts, please refer to the safety information at the end of this document.

If you are using buttons, verify that your doll maker’s needle passes cleanly through the button hole with enough clearance for at least six or seven loops of thread.

Thread approximately 3 meters of durable thread through your doll makers needle. Double it over and secure a button to the end.

Using the pattern template as a placement guide, push your needle through the one front leg, the body, the opposite leg and the far side button. Pull taut so that the secured button is against the leg.

You will want to make sure your string is taut, but does not carry too much tension. Excess tension will cause your legs to flare out and could result in breakage.

9



INSTRUCTIONS

STITCH HERE

Return your needle in the opposite direction passing through the buttons, legs and body. Pull the string taut. Continue working from side to side at least 6-8 times to securely attach the front legs. Finish with a secure knot behind the button.

Repeat for the back legs. Test your legs by giving them a few spins and pulls to make sure they are securely fastened.

If you are omitting the buttons, create a secure knot at the end of your durable thread. To begin attaching the legs, hide the knot on the inside of the leg between the leg and the body. Thread your needles back and forth 6-8 times passing through one leg, the body and then the opposite leg. Allow a space of roughly 1/2” between your entry and exit points in the leg. This helps prevent the fabric from ripping as it’s pulled taut. Finish with a secure knot on the inside of the leg.

ATTACHING THE EARS The ears will be sewn from the underside, so they flop in a playful puppy style.

To attach the first ear, position it as shown. Use a backstitch to securely attach the ear into place.

Repeat for the opposite ear.

BEGIN

SEWING HER

E ½”

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INSTRUCTIONS

ATTACHING THE TAIL Maintaining the round shape of the tail base formed by stuffing, securely attach the tail to the body with a ladder stitch. As toys tend to get carried by their tails a bit, go around the circle 3 or 4 times to firmly secure it.

ATTACHING THE EYES Attach your doxy’s eyes in the position indicated on the template page. A pair of small stacked buttons can give an endearing look, but you can use your imagination. Felt and embroidery are safe alternatives for households with small children or pets.

Please refer to the safety information at the end of this document.

RELAX AND ENJOY YOUR NEW PUP!!

11



INSTRUCTIONS

VARIATIONS Ready for something different? Creating multiple critters of the same pattern can be exciting, but why not mix things up a little?

Yappy the Scrappy Pup – Instead of using a single piece of fabric for the body, ears and legs. Use up your scrap by and create patchwork for the fabric. This introduces a scrappy nostalgic look. Be sure to use a small stitch width for your patchwork so the stuffing doesn’t leak out.

Loftus the Softest – People are naturally drawn to the ears of toys. Try substituting a piece of chenille or soft wool for the inner ear fabric making them extra touchable.

Super Squish Trish – Another easy ear variation involves lightly stuffing them instead topstitching resulting in a full-faced pup ready for action.

Lolly Dollops - Try creating a lollipop shape for your tail giving a large playful dollop at the end.

I hope you enjoyed this pattern. If you have questions or difficulties with this pattern, don’t hesitate to ask. Have fun and happy crafting!

Don’t forget to show off your creations in our flickr group: http://www.flickr.com/groups/madewithbadskirt/

Amy Gunson, Badskirt: website: www.badskirt.com blog: badskirt.blogspot.com email: [email protected]

˚IMPORTANT SAFETY INFORMATION: If you are making items for small children or households with pets, small parts can present a choking hazard. Please consider alternatives to buttons such as safety eyes, felt or embroidery. Please see government information in your area for regarding safety guidelines.

http://www.badskirt.com/

http://badskirt.blogspot.com/

mailto:[email protected]

BODY FRONT

JOIN TO BODY BACK ON SEAM

TAIL

LEAVE GAP

BEGIN SEWING

HERE

©Amy Gunson 2010.

MOXIE THE DOXY SEWING PATTERN IS PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT LAW AND MAY NOT BE SOLD, COPIED, EMAILED,

OR OTHERWISE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHERS.

TEMPLATES

BODY BACK

BEGIN SEWING HERE LEAVE GAP

JOIN

TO B

OD

Y FRO

NT O

N SEA

M

EAR

BEGIN SEWING

HERE LEAVE GAP

BEGIN SEWING

HERE LEAVE GAP

LEG

©Amy Gunson 2010.

MOXIE THE DOXY SEWING PATTERN IS PROTECTED BY COPYRIGHT LAW AND MAY NOT BE SOLD, COPIED, EMAILED,

OR OTHERWISE DISTRIBUTED TO OTHERS.

TEMPLATES

moxie the doxy - amy gunson · moxie the doxy moxie the doxy is a quick, fun and easy pattern with...

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