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The AVID Men’s Style Manual

LIGHTEN YOUR LOOk Cotton and linen suits are essential to keeping cool and stylish this spring. they’re lightweight and dressy, but still casual enough to wear without a tie. suit: John Varvatos, Nordstrom, $199

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IT’S TIME TO TAkE CHARGE OF YOUR WARDROBE AND RETHINk YOUR LOOk WITH THESE ESSENTIAL GUIDELINES THAT WILL GET YOU THROUGH MOST ANY OCCASION WITH STYLE AND PANACHE.

WORDS: Jan Leach & Dan MichelSTYLING: Jan Leach

HAIR & MAkEUP: kat HinklePHOTOS: Tuan Lee

all TieD up

THE PEEkABOO Forget the tie bar. let the narrow end of your tie show for a look that says you’re too stylish to care.

THE REVERSE For guys with short-er torsos, don’t be afraid to make your tie imperfect. let the narrow end hang lower than the wider end for a casual, rakish look.

THE DIMPLE Give every knot you tie a small dimple by pinching the center of the tie before you tighten it. It’s the true sign of a gentleman—an accent that will give your look that extra bit of swagger.tie: Armani Collezioni, Neiman Marcus, $145

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THE TUCk ’N’ GO Good for when you’re getting your hands dirty, this look has a sophis-ticated, rugged edge to it that is undeniably masculine.

not every tie should be tight and constricting— depending on the occasion. Try mixing up your presen-tation based on your per-sonality or mood.

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MAkING THE CUT boot-cut and straight-leg jeans should be in every man’s wardrobe. both are universal looks that will never go out of style. Choose a fit that’s best for your body type (a more relaxed leg if you have large or athletic thighs, or a higher rise if you have a long torso). some of our favorites around town are the Citizen of Humanity “sid” straight leg in a dark rinse, Joe’s “rocker” boot cut in medium wash, and AG’s “Hero” relaxed boot cut in a lighter medium wash.

FADE Out Every man should have at least three pairs of jeans, each with a different purpose: a dark, clean wash for dressier occasions; a medium wash for going-out and casual looks; and a medium to light wash for those t-shirt-only days.

BREAkING DOWN YOUR PANTS “Most people wear their pants too long,” says lyndon blaylock of Daniel Morgan tailor. He prefers a slight break on non-cuffed, flat-front pants and a more moderate break on cuffed pants, although a man’s body type determines which break he should wear. He says heavier-set men should wear longer pants with little to no break, and smaller guys can get away with a slimmer pant. In general, a bigger break adds weight and bulk to your figure. tailor with caution.

blazer: Armani Collezioni, Neiman Marcus, Plaza Frontenac, 314.994.5028, $1,995 (with suit pants) shirt: Hugo Boss, Saks Fifth Avenue, $145 belt: Gucci, Saks Fifth Avenue, $240 Jeans: Adriano Goldschmied, Protege in kANT32 wash, Nordstrom, $179 shoes: Hugo Boss, Saks Fifth Avenue, $195

shirt: NSF, Neiman Marcus, $95 Jeans: Seven for all Mankind, Austyn Boot Cut, Saks Fifth Avenue, $155 shoes: Converse by John Varvatos, Neiman Marcus, $95

shirt: Theory, Neiman Marcus, $85 Cuff: Will, Moris Fashions, $45 Jeans: Adriano Goldschmied, Protege in 14Y wash, Neiman Marcus, $195 shoes: Boss Orange, Moris Fashions, $125

shirt: James Perse, Nei-man Marcus, $50 Jeans: Hugo Boss, Texas Boot Cut, Saks Fifth Avenue, $155 shoes: Ecco, Dick’s Sporting Goods, West County, $153

shirt: Polo by Ralph Lauren, Neiman Marcus, $145 Jeans: Joes’s Jeans, Rebel in Emmery wash, Moris Fashions, 26 Mary-land Plaza, 314.361.6800 shoes: John Varvatos, Neiman Marcus, $185

TO PLEAT OR NOT TO PLEAT? Whether you wear pleats or not, fit is of the utmost importance. straight-front pants are modern, slimming and pretty much foolproof. When buying pleated pants, opt for a slim-fitting pair with subtle, single folds, a la Arnold palmer.

The long & shorT of iTBelow

The waisT

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We asked one of st. louis’ top tailors, lyndon blaylock from Daniel Morgan tailor, what three items every man should have tailored. 1. DRESS SHiRT “this is the most adapt-able piece to alter and should be tapered to fit alongside your body,” says blaylock. start with the correct collar size (down to the half inch), and you can alter the entire shirt from there. 2. SpORT COAT/BLAzER “Make sure the chest and armholes fit snug, but don’t pull too tightly.” 3. TROUSERS Don’t worry about how perfectly the waist fits because that’s easy to alter. blaylock says that the seat and crotch must fit well to start—not too tight and not too baggy. blazer: John Varvatos, Nordstrom, $199 shirt: John Varvatos, Moris Fashions, $115 belt: Salvatore Ferragamo, Nordstrom, $270 pants: Boss by Hugo Boss, Saks Fifth Avenue, $115 shoes: Bruno Magli, Nordstrom, $395

BE A TRAILBLAzER try wearing a one-button suit jacket with jeans for a casual look, or invest in a twill, corduroy or velvet blazer for something more stylish. black is the easiest and most univer-sal color, but don’t be afraid to experiment with brown, navy and gray. blazer: Boss by Hugo Boss, Saks Fifth Avenue, $445 shirt: Boss Orange, Moris Fashions, $118

The long & shorT of iT

Tailor -maDe

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polos are the standard on the golf course, but that doesn’t mean they have to be plain and boring. so get creative, and try one with stripes, techno prints and even embroidery. (no, a golf course logo doesn’t count.)

NOT YOUR AVERAGE BUTTON-DOWN Embrace spring’s casual attitude, and try a casual button-down with front pockets, epaulets and convertible, rolled-up sleeves. Wear it with jeans, khakis and even under blazers for a more versatile look.

polos (counter clockwise from top left): Hugo Boss, Saks Fifth Avenue, $115; Diesel, Saks Fifth Avenue, $60 Michael kors, Saks Fifth Avenue, $125; Fred Perry, Neiman Marcus, $95; Polo by Ralph Lauren, Saks Fifth Avenue, $98

shirt: Michael kors, Neiman Marcus, $146

olD shirT,new TricKs

pocket squares: Saks Fifth Avenue, $40 for a pack of three Nordstrom Rack, $8; Saks Fifth Avenue, $40 for a pack of three

SPRING IN BLOOM

REAL MEN WEAR PINk light pink looks great on guys with lighter skin, light eyes and blond to light brown hair. If you have darker skin, darker eyes and dark brown or black hair, go for the bolder pinks and purples. If you can’t take the plunge into pink right away, start with a pink- and white-striped button-down.

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HATS VS.

CAPS

are you accessorizeD?

Need help deciding? Caps are more for exercise and mesh best with a more

youthful look, but hats are more fash-ion forward and can be worn year-round. Hats (clockwise from top left): True Religion, Neiman Marcus, $75; Target, $15; Target, $15; Target, $15

when it comes to style, the devil is in the details. here are a few cool accessories that are safe to experiment with. just make sure not to wear them all at once.

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sunglasses: Emporio Armani, Saks Fifth Avenue, $160; Ray Ban, Saks Fifth Avenue, $180Cufflinks: It’s About Time, Saks Fifth Avenue, $235; David Donahue, Nordstrom, $150belt: John Varvatos, Moris Fashions, $125; Saks Fifth Avenue Brand, Saks Fifth Avenue, $85Cuffs: (Top to Bottom) John Hardy, Saks Fifth Avenue, $195; Will, Moris Fashions, $45; John Hardy, Saks Fifth Avenue, $395Watch: Brera Orologi, Neiman Marcus, $595