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The season’s key pieces, hoT names and new launches sTyle noTes TeleGRaph.co.uk/ luXuRy/womens-sTyle At just 34, Olivia Douchez is remarkably young to be responsible for a team of 40-plus petites mains – the seamstresses who bring to life the bespoke designs conceived by Chanel’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld. Particularly considering this is the venerable world of haute couture. But Douchez knew from a very young age that she wanted to work in fashion, and her passion for the techniques of garment-making saw her embark on professional training aged 15. After 10 years at Givenchy, she was headhunted by Chanel in 2015. ‘I couldn’t believe my ears,’ she says of receiving the call. Then came several interviews, a decisive one with Mr. Lagerfeld himself: ‘It was the craziest, most stressful day of my life.’ Douchez now enjoys a privileged position as one of Lagerfeld’s closest collaborators. Six weeks before Chanel’s bi-annual couture shows, he will present to her and three fellow heads of atelier his sketches for the collection and talk through each design. As the head of one of the two ‘flou’ ateliers (which create everything that is soft, not tailored) it is Douchez’s responsibility to make each look a reality. Assigning the construction to her team, Earning his fashion credentials creating footwear for Tod’s, Jimmy Choo, Valextra and Valentino, Álvaro González debuted the label that bears his name in 2013. The Spanish native – who splits his time between Florence and London – swiftly built a following for his exceptional leather work, sourcing hides from Italian artisanal workshops and crafting the leather into sleek, elegant sandals. And this month, the well-heeled (and toed) of Marylebone can judge that Florentine artisanal skill for themselves with the launch of his first standalone store, which showcases his mix of aesthetics, from men’s sandals with minimalist strips of cinnamon- shaded leather to fanciful, feminine affairs decorated with fringing, beadwork, pom-poms and tropical feathers. Álvaro, 6 Nottingham Place, W1; alvarogonzalez.co Stephen Doig Hot Footing – Álvaro González Brings His Sandals to London she will oversee the making of around 20 dresses, often suggesting fabrics and finishes. ‘One of my favourite aspects of the job is these meetings with Karl. I love to hear him talk through his vision and nothing leaves me feeling as content as when he is happy, when we have brought to life what he imagined.’ Once the collection has been presented to press and buyers, Douchez spends the year fulfilling orders, making a mannequin to fit each customer’s exact measurements, which is then stored in the Chanel ateliers in Paris, and travelling to the US, Dubai and London for fittings. ‘I love to satisfy my clients’ needs, to make sure that they will have a beautiful dress that fits them like a glove. I love the magic that happens when a sketch becomes a reality.’ chanel.com Douchez (left) is never without her quilted Chanel pouch of pins (right), which she wears around her neck at all times to make hands- free adjustments to Lagerfeld’s latest designs. Below left: Álvaro González Aida fringed suede sandal, £290; alvarogonzalez.co Meet your maker | olivia d ouchez The head of Chanel’s ‘flou’ atelier on why bringing Karl Lagerfeld’s creations to life is her dream job Words Olivia Lidbury Photographs Robin Mellor

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Page 1: Meet your maker olivia douchez - Amazon Web Servicesjournoportfolio.s3-website-eu-west-1.amazonaws.com/... · luXuRy/womens-sTyle At just 34, Olivia Douchez is remarkably young to

T h e s e a s o n ’ s k e y p i e c e s , h o Tn a m e s a n d n e w l a u n c h e s

s T y l en o T e s

T e l e G R a p h . c o . u k /l u X u R y / w o m e n s - s T y l e

At just 34, Olivia Douchez is remarkably young to be responsible for a team of 40-plus petites mains – the seamstresses who bring to life the bespoke designs conceived by Chanel’s creative director Karl Lagerfeld. Particularly considering this is the venerable world of haute couture.

But Douchez knew from a very young age that she wanted to work in fashion, and her passion for the techniques of garment-making saw her embark on professional training aged 15. After 10 years at Givenchy, she was headhunted by Chanel in 2015. ‘I couldn’t believe my ears,’ she says of receiving the call. Then came several interviews, a decisive one with Mr. Lagerfeld himself: ‘It was the craziest, most stressful day of my life.’

Douchez now enjoys a privileged position as one of Lagerfeld’s closest collaborators. Six weeks before Chanel’s bi-annual couture shows, he will present to her and three fellow heads of atelier his sketches for the collection and talk through each design. As the head of one of the two ‘flou’ ateliers (which create everything that is soft, not tailored) it is Douchez’s responsibility to make each look a reality. Assigning the construction to her team,

Earning his fashion credentials creating footwear for Tod’s, Jimmy Choo, Valextra and Valentino, Álvaro González debuted the label that bears his name in 2013. The Spanish native – who splits his time between Florence and London – swiftly built a following for his exceptional leather work, sourcing hides from Italian artisanal workshops and crafting the leather into sleek, elegant sandals. And this month, the well-heeled (and toed) of Marylebone can judge that Florentine artisanal skill for themselves with the launch of his first standalone store, which showcases his mix of aesthetics, from men’s sandals with minimalist strips of cinnamon-shaded leather to fanciful, feminine affairs decorated with fringing, beadwork, pom-poms and tropical feathers. Álvaro, 6 Nottingham Place, W1; alvarogonzalez.co Stephen Doig

Hot Footing – Álvaro González Brings His Sandals to London she will oversee the making of around 20

dresses, often suggesting fabrics and finishes.‘One of my favourite aspects of the job is

these meetings with Karl. I love to hear him talk through his vision and nothing leaves me feeling as content as when he is happy, when we have brought to life what he imagined.’

Once the collection has been presented to press and buyers, Douchez spends the year fulfilling orders, making a mannequin to fit each customer’s exact measurements, which is then stored in the Chanel ateliers in Paris, and travelling to the US, Dubai and London for fittings. ‘I love to satisfy my clients’ needs, to make sure that they will have a beautiful dress that fits them like a glove. I love the magic that happens when a sketch becomes a reality.’ chanel.com

Douchez (left) is never without her quilted Chanel pouch of pins (right), which she wears around her neck at all times to make hands-free adjustments to Lagerfeld’s latest designs. Below left: Álvaro González Aida fringed suede sandal, £290; alvarogonzalez.co

Meet your maker| olivia douchezThe head of Chanel’s ‘flou’ atelier on why bringing Karl Lagerfeld’s creations to life is her dream jobWords Olivia Lidbury Photographs Robin Mellor