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Presented by-Harshita Agarwal (10)Reetusri (22)FABRIC AND GARMENT FINISHINGPresentation on Decatising, Emerising, Raising and Sanforizing.CONTENTSINTRODUCTION TO FINISHESDECATISINGEMERISINGRAISINGSANFORISINGBIBLIOGRAPHYINTRODUCTION TO FINISHESIntextile manufacturing,finishingrefers to the final processes that converts thewovenorknittedcloth into a usable material and more specifically to any process performed after dyeing theyarnorfabricto improve the look, performance, or "hand" (feel) of the finished textile orclothing.

Some of the mechanical finishes are :- Decatising Emerising Raising SanforisingDECATIZING

DECATISINGDecatisingordecatizing, also known ascrabbing,blowing, anddecating.It is the process of making a permanenttextile finishon acloth, so that it does not shrink during garment making.It involves the application of heat and pressure to set or develop lustre and softer hand.When applied to double knits it imparts crisp hand and reduces shrinkage.It also helps to avoid distortion of weave, and in the run the design pattern.It also removes creases and makes fabric smooth.It improves texture through added humidity.The principal involved is controlled relaxation of strains stored in fabric.Fabric along with a felt are rolled in open width onto a perforated cylinder and is subjected to a super heated steam.

ADVANTAGES Produces shrink free finish. Smooth and wrinkle free finish. Enhance natural luster of fabric. Permanent setting of woolen fabrics. Overcome blotchy or uneven dyeing.LIMITATIONS Dimensions of fabric cannot be changed.Decatizing machine BISIO

EMERIZINGEMERISINGThe sueding or emerising process aims to recreate the natural suede feel using other materials.It is the unique peach-skin effect on light and heavy woven as well as knitted fabrics.It gives the abraded effect to the fabrics. It makes them ideal for certain clothing applications such as ladies lingerie, shoes and kids wear.

The process involves is also used to make upholstery, table and wall coverings with a suede feel to create a really luxurious effect for selected home ware. Fabrics that are treated in this way will have increased liquid, crushing and stain resistance, and are likely to appeal to consumers who prefer a non-animal product.It can be carried out on all types of denims.Emerising improves the feel and appearance of the denim fabric completely making it very comfortable for the user.It results in the soft and fluffy flannel effect on the fabric.It also gives the mock leather finish to fabrics.It is an operation where an article undergoes emery rollers (abrasive type), allowing a slight pile raising, although is smaller than in carding. In some cases emery or sand paper are used to abrade the surface of fabric to give the suede effect.

The substitution of the abrasive rollers is by a brush roller with a long pile from carbon fibre.It renders the fabric soft to touch with less pile formation, innovating the peach-skin effect and evolving with the no-pile effect.ADVANTAGESFabric treated with emerizing finish have increased liquid, crushing and stain resistance.Gives abraded appearance to fabric.Its also valued due to its soft texture.LIMITATIONSLess durable due to abrading of the fabric. Emerizing machine TORRES

RAISING

RAISINGIt is a technique used to produce a brushed or napped appearance.Also termed as napping or brushing or flannel finishing.It makes fabric smooth and soil and water repellent.

It raises the surface fibers of a fabric by means of passage over rapidly revolving cylinders covered with metal points or teasel burrs. Napping is also used for certain knit goods, blankets, and other fabrics with a raised surface.This operation is particularly suitable for wool and cotton fabrics; it gives a fuzzy surface by abrading the cloth and pulling the fiber end to the surface.By means of this process a hairy surface can be given to both face and back of the cloth providing several modifications of the fabric appearance, softer and fuller hand and bulk increase.The fuzzy surface is created by pulling the fiber end out of the yarns by means of metal needles provided with hooks shelled into the rollers that scrape the fabric surface. These rollers are generally alternated with a roller with hooks directed toward the fabric feed direction (pile roller), and a roller with the hooks fitted in the opposite direction (counter-pile roller).

It is also used to cover the fabric defect.The fabric created can be used as dusting materials.Durability of the fabric is hampered as it is performed on the medium-loose twisted yarns..ADVANTAGESBy raising brushed or napped appearance can be achieved.Due to its raised effect its used in a variety of fabrics like blanket etc.LIMITATIONSDue to lots of brushing in raising it makes the fabric less durable.Low resiliency and hence premature flattening occursNap can be partially restored by frequent brushing. Subject to pilling.Rapid wear at abrasive points (like elbows, button holes etc.)RAISING MACHINEZME406 Roller Raising Machine

SANFORIZING

SANFORIZINGThis finish is done to control the shrinkage of the fabric.An efficient method, with an accurate adjustment, it grants 1% shrinkage in the washing. The fabric is run though the sanforizers, i.e. the rollers or drums filled with hot steam.The fabric is made to pass through a rubber belt.

The greater the pressure applied to the rubber belt, the less the shrinking afterwards Rubber blankets or needle felts are used.During this process the fabrics are shrinked in such a way that these do not shrink any more during the washes.

The fabric undergoes the continuous expansion and shrinkage in the presence of pressure and hot steam.The cloth is continually fed into the sanforizer and therein moistened steam.

A rotating cylinder presses a rubber belt against another heated rotating cylinder.

Thereby the belt briefly gets compressed and laterally expanded, afterwards relaxing to its normal thickness. The cloth to be treated is transported between rubber sleeve and heated cylinder and is forced to follow this brief compression and lateral expansion, and relaxation. It thus gets shrunk.ADVANTAGESIts provides controlled shrinkage to the fabric.The purpose is to shrink fabric in such a way that textiles made up of these fabric do not shrink during washing.It stabilizes the fabric structure.Improves the hand of the fabric.End products are denim, bed sheets, table clothes, curtains etc.LIMITATIONSIts only minimizes the shrinkage ,dont remove it completely.Its not that durable. Sanforizing machine monforts

BIBLIOGRAPHY

Encyclopedia of textile finishing by Prof.Dr.rer.nat .Hans-Karl Rouette

http://www.gatewayfinishers.co.uk/textile-finishingservices/sueding-emerising/

http://www.troficolor.com/img/ficheiros/file/04%20-%20Finishing1%20-%20TROFICOLOR%20DENIM%20MAKERS.pdf