masterclass from collection bin to fashion

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Masterclass from collection bin to fashion Frouke Bruinsma, G-Star Hans Markowski, KICI 14th November 2012

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Masterclass1 Textiles & Fashion by G-Star & KICIFrouke Bruinsma, G-Star
FIRST PART
clothing collecting charity of the Benelux
Three areas of expertise:
• 6000 points of sale in 68 countries
About G-Star
RAW Responsibility:
Source: CIRFS
• World Fibre production increased from 55 mln tons in 2001 to 82 mln tons in 2011
• Biggest part man-made fibres: 66% in 2011
• Raw cotton major portion of natural fibres: 33% in 2011
• Wool is decreasing: 1% in 2011
Our question:
how to regain fibres from old worn out garments in such a way that they can be
used for the production of new fashionable garments?
Regaining fibres
2451 KG
TO TA
Fibre sort KG %
100% COTTON 411,5 16,8%100% COTTON 411,5 16,8% 31,0 19,0 6,0 3,0 33,5 85,0 17,0 7,0 8,5 5,5 5,0 28,0 15,0 23,5 6,0 35,0 18,0 65,5
100% WOOL 135,0 5,5% 15,5 7,5 5,0 0,0 10,5 8,0 6,5 2,5 0,5 2,0 0,5 5,5 0,0 13,5 2,0 31,0 11,5 13,0
100% POLYESTER 113,5 4,6% 13,0 9,5 1,0 0,0 13,5 10,0 11,5 0,0 0,5 3,0 2,5 6,5 2,0 8,5 1,5 5,0 1,0 24,5
100% VISCOSE 20,5 0,8% 0,0 1,0 1,5 0,0 8,0 5,5 0,5 1,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,0 1,5
100% ACRYLIC 441,0 18,0% 33,5 21,0 11,0 3,5 74,5 48,5 25,0 2,0 4,0 8,0 3,5 36,5 9,5 19,5 9,0 28,0 12,5 91,5
50% COTTON 50% ACRYLIC 188,0 7,7% 17,5 11,5 1,0 2,0 17,5 24,5 3,5 1,5 3,5 0,5 3,0 14,5 7,5 6,0 6,0 10,0 12,5 45,5
60% COTTON 40% ACRYLIC 41,0 1,7% 4,0 2,0 3,5 1,5 4,5 4,0 0,5 0,0 0,5 0,0 0,5 4,5 2,0 6,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 7,0
80% COTTON 20% NYLON 36,5 1,5% 2,0 3,5 0,0 0,0 7,0 2,0 1,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 2,5 4,0 3,5 0,0 4,5 1,5 5,0
50% COTTON 50% WOOL 10,0 0,4% 2,5 0,0 0,0 0,0 1,0 2,5 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,5 0,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 0,0 3,0
80% VISCOSE 20% NYLON 31,5 1,3% 1,5 2,5 1,0 0,0 8,0 4,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 3,0 0,0 0,5 2,5 1,5 0,0 2,5 2,0 2,0
100% NYLON 8,5 0,3% 1,0 0,5 0,0 0,0 2,5 1,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 1,5 0,5 1,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,5
80% WOOL 20% NYLON 81,5 3,3% 13,0 7,5 2,5 1,0 6,5 3,5 7,0 0,0 2,5 0,0 0,0 4,5 5,5 2,5 3,0 4,5 1,0 17,0
50% WOOL 50% ACRYLIC 119,5 4,9% 11,5 5,5 5,0 3,0 14,5 4,5 5,5 0,5 2,0 2,0 0,0 2,5 7,0 6,0 5,0 6,0 3,0 36,0
30% WOOL 70% ACRYLIC 125,0 5,1% 15,0 6,5 4,5 0,0 14,0 9,0 2,5 3,5 0,0 0,5 0,0 4,5 2,0 7,0 5,0 2,5 3,0 45,5
REST 688,0 28,1% 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0 0,0
TOTAAL 2451,0 100,0% 161 97,5 42,0 14,0 216 212 81,0 18,0 22,0 24,5 15,0 112 58,5 99,5 38,0 129 66,0 358
Increase the use of sustainable materials in our collection
• MADE-BY benchmark (organic cotton,
• MADE-BY benchmark (organic cotton, recycled cotton, recycled polyester, hemp, tencel etc.)
• RAW Recycled: Denim made of our own G-Star post consumer denim
Denim Recycle Project
Pulling to
Environment benefits Virgin 25% Saving %Environment benefits
per 1000 kg
Total water use 100 m3 70 53 17 25
Total chemical use kg 190 159 31 16
Total land use 100 m2 78 58 19 25
Source: Alcon Advies – Modint Ecotool vs 1.3
Availability and pricing
(based on a population of 16 million citizens)
Total amount of cotton available for
recycling per year
From collection bins, not fit for resale 8 million kilos
From household waste 12.4 million kilos
From overstock 9.6 million kilos
From work wear industry 1 million kilos
TOTAL 31 million kilos
Price of recycled cotton fibres between € 0,80 and € 1,00 per kg
Versus fluctuating prices of virgin cotton at average of € 1,51 over last
five years
• Buttons, zippers, rivets make recycling hard
• Creating higher percentage of recycled fibres
requires even better qualityrequires even better quality
• Upscaling is necessary to empower recycling
industry and spinning mills
incentive for consumers
G-Star future plans
• Gradually increase the use of sustainable materials (including RAW Recycled) in our collection
• Focus on using our own post consumer denim in • Focus on using our own post consumer denim in RAW Recycled
• Collection of G-Star denim in stores
• Closer involvement of Design in recycling
– Not using mix of fibres
– Easily removable trims
– To get longer fibres and reach a higher
percentage of recycled material in garments
– To improve look & feel; get more even and clean – To improve look & feel; get more even and clean
fibres
new garment