market presentation april 2020...2020/04/02 · c dermofeel® gsc sg glyceryl stearate citrate...

1

TEGODEO® A30 eco

Market Presentation

April 2020

2

TrendsNatural Deodorant Formulations

23%

77%

Claimed “natural“

4744 deodorant product launches in 20191

Sources: 1Mintel2Weleda

Alcohol; Water (Aqua); Triethyl Citrate; Fragrance (Parfum);

Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate; Salvia Officinalis Oil;

Ammonium Glycyrrhizate; Limonene; Linalool; Benzyl

Benzoate; Geraniol; Coumarin2

76% of US consumers agree that they use deodorant/antiperspirant every day1

Adding an odor absorbing deodorant active to a clear aqueous or hydro-alcoholic fomulation is made possible with our

TEGODEO®

A30 eco

23%

77%

Idea for your product development

| Public | April 2020 | TEGODEO® A30 eco | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH

3

Perspiration and body odor backgroundFunctionality of a deodorant and natural cosmetic compliant ingredients


▪ Perspiration is primarily a means of thermoregulation → leads to body odor

▪ Body odor is caused by the bacterial decomposition of lipids and proteins in apocrine sweat

▪ The malodorous products are highly volatile carboxylic acids and protein derivatives

PerspirationBacterial

growthBreak down

productsOdor formation

Astringents Antimicrobials Absorbents Perfumes

Different approaches are possible to eliminate unpleasant body odors:

TEGO® Cosmo P 813 MB

dermosoft® decalact deo MB

dermofeel® TEC eco

Enzyme inhibitor

TEGODEO® PY 88 G

TEGODEO® A30 eco

4

compliantwith certified

naturalcosmetics


▪ Highly effective odor absorber

▪ Ideal solution for aqueous and hydro-alcoholic formulations

▪ Usage concentration: 1.0 - 4.0 %

▪ In-vitro & In-vivo proven efficacy (in combination with antimicrobial deodorant actives)

▪ Does not inhibit natural transpiration

▪ Has no bactericidal or fungicidal properties and therefore no interference with natural flora of axilla

▪ Natural origin index (ISO 16128) Ino= 1.0Natural index (ISO 16128) In= 0.05

▪ Halal certified*

TEGODEO® A30 eco

* certified for products out of Duisburg/Germany

5

TEGODEO® A30 ecoPerformance and Characteristics

▪ Cold processable

▪ For aqueous and hydro-alcoholic products

▪ Water dispersible

▪ Needs further stabilization for clear solubility, pH adjustment and long term stability

▪ Addition of surfactants, glycols and/or other stabilizer required (detailed information will be given in TI)

▪ pH range: 4,5 – 10

▪ Compatible with 5 – 30% ETOH (depending on stabilizing system)

▪ Appearance: liquid, clear yellow solution

▪ Aqueous solution (10%): turbid

▪ pH: ~ 9

▪ Active content: ~ 26%

▪ Use concentration: 1 – 4%


INCI:

Propylene Glycol, Zinc Ricinoleate, Aqua, Arginine, Citric Acid

6

TEGODEO® A30 ecoNew Guideline Formulations for natural cosmetics (1/2)

▪ Clear hydro-alcoholic

spray

▪ Combination with other

deo actives

− Sensorial evaluation

vs. natural benchmark


liquid gel texture


deo actives



▪ Clear solution on wipe

▪ Combination with other deo actives

▪ No alcohol



Natural Invisible Deo Spray

L103-18.74

Natural Invisible Deo Roll-On

L103-17.34

Natural Refreshing Deo Wipe

L103-18.59


7

TEGODEO® A30 ecoNew Guideline Formulations for natural cosmetics (2/2)

▪ Emulsion based gel

cream


deo actives

− in vivo efficacy tests

(verum vs. Placebo,

verum with all deo

activs vs Placebo)

▪ Surfactant based

system

▪ Transparent, with

attractive viscosity

− in vivo efficacy test on

skin


spray with odor

absorbing properties

− in vitro efficacy test on

hair strands

Natural Deo Roll-On Emulsion

L103-11.21

Natural Anti Smell Handsoap

L103-8.1

Natural Anti-Smelly Hair

L105-8.16


Detailed formulation hints

8

IN-VITRO EFFICACY

TESTINGOdor absorption of

artificial sweat on

wet wipe tissues

Odor absorption of

smoke on hair

strands

Odor absorption of

unpleasant odor

formation induced

by DHA in self tan

lotion

Change of odor

intensity of

different perfume

oils


Odor absorption of

onion smell in a handwash soap

→ see more

9

In-vitro screening: Natural Anti-Smell Handsoap (L103-8.1-0120)Test Design


▪ An area (approx. 8 cm) is marked on the inside

of the forearm

▪ 1 ml of test product is washed with 5-10 drops

of water for 30 seconds in the test area

▪ Rinse off the foam with lukewarm water for 10-

15 seconds

▪ Rub 3 times with a halved onion over the

cleaned area, leave to act for 30 seconds

▪ Wash again with 1 ml test product and 5 to 10

drops of water for 30 seconds and rinse off the

foam for 10-15 seconds

▪ The test is always carried out in comparison

with placebo and verum

▪ If both arms have been washed, a comparative

smell and evaluation is carried out

Phase Ingredient INCI (EU) Supplier %

A

Amisoft CS-22Aqua; Disodium Cocoyl Glutamate;

Sodium Cocoyl GlutamateAjinomoto 5.00

Plantacare 818 UP Coco-Glucoside; Aqua BASF 20.00

Plantacare 1200 UP Lauryl Glucoside; Aqua BASF 10.00

dermofeel® P-30 MB PCA Glyceryl Oleate Evonik 1.00

TEGO® Remo 95 MBSorbitan Caprylate; Glyceryl

OleateEvonik 0.25

TEGODEO® A30 ecoPropylene Glycol; Zinc Ricinoleate;

Aqua; Arginine; Citric AcidEvonik 4.00

dermofeel® sensolv MB Isoamyl Laurate Evonik 0.50

BDeionised Water Aqua 40.95

Sulfopon 1216 G MB Sodium Coco-Sulfate BASF 5.00

dermosoft® 1388 ecoGlycerin; Aqua; Sodium Levulinate;

Sodium AnisateEvonik 3.50

Glycerin 99.5%, Ph. Eur. GlycerinCremer

Oleo7.20

C Perfume Parfum diverse 0.30

D Citric Acid (sol. 20%) Aqua; Citric Acid 2.30

100.00

10

In-vitro screening: Natural Anti-Smell HandsoapEvaluation


Which of the two products can better absorb the smell of onion on the skin?

0= no odour, 1=Low odour, 2=noticable odour, 3=strong odour

Handwash soap L103-8.1-0120 (Verum) Handwash soap L014-126.4-0919 (Placebo)

Testperson 1 1 2

Testperson 2 0 2

Testperson 3 0 2

Testperson 4 1 3

Testperson 5 0 2

Testperson 6 1 3

Testperson 7 0 1

Testperson 8 1 2

Testperson 9 0 1

4 18

11

In-vitro screening: Natural Anti-Smell HandsoapEvaluation


0

0,5

1

1,5

2

2,5

3

3,5

4

4,5

5

0= no odor

1=Low odor

2=noticable odor

3=strong odor

Odor absorption Handwash Soap

Handwash soap L103-8.1-0120 (Verum) Handwash soap L014-126.4-0919 (Placebo)

All test persons recognize only lowor even no odor after the

handwash withTEGODEO® A30 eco!

12

In-vivo performanceSniff test

▪ Comparative assessment of deodorant efficacy of a deo roll-on formulation with 4% TEGODEO® A30 eco in comparison

to a Placebo formulation

▪ Study Design: Single blind/ randomized half side test

▪ Panel size: 20 panelists (m/w, 20 - 62 years)

▪ Application: daily under the axilla over a period of one week

▪ Checks: Olfactomeric expert grading of odor intensity

- initial value (t0), 6 h (t1) and 24 h (t2) after first application

- 6 h (t3) and 24 h (t4) after last application

▪ Test products:

− Test product A: 4% TEGODEO® A30 eco

+ dermosoft® decalact deo MB + TEGO® Cosmo P 813 MB + dermofeel® TEC eco in a deo roll-on

− Test product B: Placebo


13

In-vivo performanceSniff test


0

1

2

3

4

5

Sweat odor intensity

6h

(after 7 days)

Point of time (h)24h6h

(after first

application)

t0 24h

Placebo (B)

Formulation with TEGODEO® A30 eco (A)

1= not detectable

2= low

3= detectable

4= strong

5= extremly strong

Test product A: deo roll on 4% TEGODEO® A30 eco

+ deo actives (→ see test formula)

Detectable reduction of odor intensity 6h (t1) and 24h

(t2) after application as w6h (t3) and 24h (t4) after 7

days of application period

Significant results for t1, t2 and t3

Test product B: Placebo

No odor reduction in comparison to initial value

detectable at any time

Figure: Comparative evaluation of sweat odor within 24 h

* **

* p ≤ 0.05 significant

In-vivo proven 24h

efficacy!*

14

Natural Deo Roll-On EmulsionL103-11.21-0719


Phase Ingredient INCI (EU) Supplier %A Deionised Water Aqua 72.50

Glycerin 99.5%, Ph. Eur. Glycerin Cremer Oleo 5.00

B Xanthan Gum FNCSP-PC Xanthan Gum Jungbunzlauer 0.90

Genuvisco carrageenan CG-131 Carrageenan CP Kelco 0.10

C dermofeel® GSC SG Glyceryl Stearate Citrate Evonik 0.40

dermofeel® sensolv MB Isoamyl Laurate Evonik 0.50

Sunflower Oil, pressed, organic Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil Henry Lamotte 0.50

TEGODEO® A 30 ecoPropylene Glycol; Zinc Ricinoleate; Aqua; Arginine;

Citric AcidEvonik 4.00

dermofeel® TEC eco Triethyl Citrate Evonik 5.00

TEGO® Cosmo P 813 MB Polyglyceryl-3 Caprylate Evonik 0.50

dermosoft® decalact deo MB Sodium Caproyl/Lauroyl Lactylate; Triethyl Citrate;

Salvia Officinalis OilEvonik 0.30

D Perfume Parfum diverse 0.30

Ethanol organic denat. Alcohol Denat. diverse 10.00

100.00

15 | Public | April 2020 | TEGODEO® A30 eco | Evonik Dr. Straetmans GmbH

Mild and gentle

Reliable efficacy

natural cosmetic

compliant

Also developing different application fields is now

possible with TEGODEO® A30 eco!

→ Take a look at inspirationsfor trending ideas in ourguideline formulations

What consumers expect…

17

TEGODEO® Blends – Formulation hints

Compatibility Remarks

Surfactants (in order

of preference)

Alkylsulfates, Sarcosinate, Glutamate,

Polyglyceryl esters…

Low dosage (0.25 %) of SLS helps to

improve solubility at low pH,

surfactants like Betaines, Glycinate,

cationics do not improve solubility

Solubilizer Symbio®solve clear plus, TEGO® Solve

90, TEGO® Solve 61,TEGOSOFT® PC 41

Depending on type of solvent between 5

and 20% addition of ETOH is possible,

Anti-crystallization

/chelating agents

Tetra sodium glutamate diacetate

(Dissolvine GL 47 S), EDTA

Incompatibility with Sodium Phytate

(white precipitation)

Use of solvents

(alcohols/ polyols)

3-10% will facilitate solubility, helps to

stabilize solution – Ethanol, Isopropanol,

Propylene glycol, Butylenen Glycol,

Hexylene Glycol, Pentylene glycol

No stable solution in any of the tested

solvents, Pentylene Glycol works best,

addition of ETOH improves clearness of

solutions

Buffering For stable formulation an additional buffer

system is needed. Preferred: citric or lactic

acid in combination with mild amines like

arginine

strong acids and alkalies


back

18

TEGODEO® Blends – Formulation hints


Compatibility Remarks

Temperature Blend TEGODEO® A30 eco is cold processable and water dispersible. For clear solution at

low pH addition of solvents, solubilizers and / or surfactants are necessary

pH range Formulations are stable at high pH values from 7,5-11. For stable clear solutions at pH 4,5-7

further stabilization is necessary.

Improved water-

Solubility

Choices: 1st Chelating agents; 2nd anionic surfactants; 3rd non ionic surfactants; 4th alcohol

low pH

stabilization

Choices: 1st anionic surfactants; 2nd non ionic surfactants; 3rd (Chelating agents) and alcohol

combination for

clear solution

1 – 4 % TEGODEO® A30 eco + 3 – 7% solubilizer + 0,1 – 1% anionic surfactant + 5-20% alcohol

chelating agent: water-solubility

surfactant: stabilization at low pH + improved solubility

alcohol: long term stability

Order of addition For clear formulations first premix stabilizer and solubilizers and TEGODEO® A30 eco. Then

add the water and stir. A clear solution should be obtained. Then add 7-10% glycol or

ethanol, adjust pH. Between pH 7 and pH 6 turbidity of solution may occur back

market presentation april 2020...2020/04/02 · c dermofeel® gsc sg glyceryl stearate citrate...

Documents