machine stitching techniques obj. 3.02 understand engineering & construction
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Machine Stitching TechniquesObj. 3.02 Understand Engineering & Construction
Stitch Lengths
Stitch Length is determined by the purpose.
A medium stitch length is most common.
Basting stitches are very long.
Reinforcement stitches are very short.
Standard Stitching Use: Permanent seams & construction
details.
Most Fabrics: 10-12 inches Finer Fabrics: Shorter stitch between 12-15
stitches per inch.
Heavy Fabrics: Longer stitch 8-10 stitches per inch.
Basting Machine basting holds two pieces
of fabric together until they are permanently stitched.
Used also on a single layer of fabric for: Easing Gathering Marking guidelines
Reinforcement Stitching Adds strength to areas that will be
clipped or trimmed close to the stitching line or areas such as armhole, crotch and corners.
Short stitch – 15-20 stitches per inch.
Stay-stitching
Prevents fabric stretchingPlaced along bias & curved
edgesAdded after:
Fabric markingBefore pinningBastingPermanent stitching
Stay-Stitching cont.
Stay-stitching should be done on a single layer of fabric 1/8 inch from seam line & within the seam allowance.
Acts as a guide for clipping & joining curved edges.
Directional Stitching
Helps prevent a seam from changing or stretching while stitching.
Produced by stitching with or in the direction of the fabric grain.
Standard Seam Stitching
Produces
5/8 inch seam
Used in most patterns.
Plain seam: 5/8 inch
Backstitching Secures the ends
of a row of stitching.
Secures the ends of a row of stitching.
Begin ½ inch in from end.
Stitch backward to edge of fabric.
Continue sewing to other end.
Backstitch ½ inch from end.
Understitching
Keeps facing or the under side of fabric rolled out of sight.
Created from standard stitching
Stitch from right side of fabric through facing & seam allowances, 1/8 inch from seam line.
Topstitching
Decorative or functional stitching placed on the outside of a garment.
Outlines – Seams
Secures - Facings
Attaches – Pockets
Stitches - Pleats
Holds - Hems
Edgestitching
Holds fabric & seams in place.
Row of stitching ¼ inch from finished edge.
Used in areas as: Neck edges Zippers
Stitch-in-the-ditch Holds two or more
layers of fabric together at the seams.
Secures: Necklines Armholes Waistband facings
Standard stitching on the outside of a garment in the groove of a seam line.
Zigzag Stitching Zigzag stitch
uses:
Finish seams Stitch
buttonholes Attach cording
& elastic Create
decorative designs.
Button Hole
Seam Finish
Specialty Stitches Most machines
have a variety of specialty stitches.
Specialty Stitches Add decorative
aspect to garment Can be made by a
serger or sewing machine.
Machine & Serger specialty stitches