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MA. Vesna Srni Slide 2 Contents A brief history of photography A brief history of photography Agency Magnum Agency Magnum Fashion photography Fashion photography High-fashion model look High-fashion model look Erotic photography Erotic photography Photography as a part of installation Photography as a part of installation Slide 3 A brief history of photography Invented in 1839 (daguerrotype) Invented in 1839 (daguerrotype) Photorealism: artists almost lost their jobs (photo.portraits-quicker, cheaper) Photorealism: artists almost lost their jobs (photo.portraits-quicker, cheaper) 1920s photography became creative media 1920s photography became creative media Laslo Moholy-Nagy imports it at Bauhaus (art school, Germany) Laslo Moholy-Nagy imports it at Bauhaus (art school, Germany) Effort-experimental and abstract visual expression Effort-experimental and abstract visual expression Photomontages creators: Photomontages creators: Kurt Schwiters, El Lissitzky, Willi Baumeister, Max Ernst Kurt Schwiters, El Lissitzky, Willi Baumeister, Max Ernst Man Ray makes photograms and uses solarization Man Ray makes photograms and uses solarization Henri Cartier-Bresson, Place de l'Europe. Gare Saint Lazare, Paris, 1932 Henri Cartier-Bresson, Place de l'Europe. Gare Saint Lazare, Paris, 1932 (cover photo from the book On Photography, Farrar, Straus & Giroux, New York, 1977) Slide 4 1940s and 50s: pure photography and naturalism (Bauhaus) 1940s and 50s: pure photography and naturalism (Bauhaus) 1960s Robert Rauschenberg creates complex combined technics 1960s Robert Rauschenberg creates complex combined technics Interventions: scratching and painting on emulsion; colouring negatives; solarisation; christalisation Interventions: scratching and painting on emulsion; colouring negatives; solarisation; christalisation Combined technics and practice of conceptual and post-conceptual age (1970s and 80s) Combined technics and practice of conceptual and post-conceptual age (1970s and 80s) eljko Jerman, interventions on photo paper, 1975 Slide 5 Agency Magnum Huge influence on contemporary photography:Magnum Huge influence on contemporary photography:Magnum (US) (US) -Edward Weston (Pepper,1930), Henri Cartier Bresson, Robert Capa, David Seymour -Edward Weston (Pepper,1930), Henri Cartier Bresson, Robert Capa, David Seymour Documentary photo., still nature, portraits, landscapes Documentary photo., still nature, portraits, landscapes E.Weston,Pepper,1930 (Susan Sontag, photo from the book On Photography, Farrar, Straus & Giroux, New York, 1977) Slide 6 Fashion photography Richard Avedon,Irving Penn (tend to atelier or studio ambience) Richard Avedon,Irving Penn (tend to atelier or studio ambience) After 1945 in US: Englishmen introduce natural ambience, and gather around Vogue magazine-Helmuth Newton, David Montgomery, David Bailey After 1945 in US: Englishmen introduce natural ambience, and gather around Vogue magazine-Helmuth Newton, David Montgomery, David Bailey Richard Avedon: Dovima with elephants, Richard Avedon: Dovima with elephants, Evening dress by Christian Dior, Paris, 1955 (photo from http://www.artnet.fr/) Slide 7 High-fashion model look Fashion photograph seeks: transformation, acting ability and photogenie (mental picture as autoerotic capacity) Fashion photograph seeks: transformation, acting ability and photogenie (mental picture as autoerotic capacity) Top models: Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Cindy Craford, Claudia Schiffer Top models: Linda Evangelista, Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, Cindy Craford, Claudia Schiffer Advertisment photography very often includes fashion, erotics and humorous aspects Advertisment photography very often includes fashion, erotics and humorous aspects Christian Dior, Christian Dior, Flamenco, 2003 (model: Adina Fohlin) (model: Adina Fohlin) (http://www.vogue.co.uk) Elie Saab, Elie Saab, Vogue, 2003 (model: Karolina Kurkova) (model: Karolina Kurkova) (http://www.vogue.co.uk) /www.vogue.co.uk/ /www.vogue.co.uk/ Slide 8 The best creators and fashion houses: The best creators and fashion houses: Christian Dior, Calvin Klein, Christian Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurant, Donna Karan, Viviane Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Gucci, Givenchy, Rudolph Valentino,Gianni Versace, Giorgio Armani, Chanel, Prada itd. Christian Dior, Calvin Klein, Christian Lacroix, Yves Saint Laurant, Donna Karan, Viviane Westwood, Jean Paul Gaultier, Gucci, Givenchy, Rudolph Valentino,Gianni Versace, Giorgio Armani, Chanel, Prada itd. Slide 9 Contemporary photography: stresses sexuality as total denudeness Contemporary photography: stresses sexuality as total denudeness Not as Nude any more, it is without emphasised proportionsand transcendence, just as nakedness, sex affiliation, it emphasises one`s own sex favorisation Not as Nude any more, it is without emphasised proportions and transcendence, just as nakedness, sex affiliation, it emphasises one`s own sex favorisation Stephan Lupino: COCO, 1989 Erotic photography (Sexualy confused person) (photo: Courtesy of the Artist) Slide 10 Croatian "Mapplethorpe", the world famous photographer Stephan Lupino: "Tina & fish" (1995)- is also a "camp", because Tina wears glass bra, two circular aquariums with fish, but without irony, here the woman is simply eroticly feminine and selfsufficient. Croatian "Mapplethorpe", the world famous photographer Stephan Lupino: "Tina & fish" (1995)- is also a "camp", because Tina wears glass bra, two circular aquariums with fish, but without irony, here the woman is simply eroticly feminine and selfsufficient. Stefan Lupino: Tina&Fish, 1995. Stefan Lupino: Tina&Fish, 1995. Slide 11 Photography as a part of installation Ambiguity of woman individuum is artisticly presented in Croatian artist Vlasta Delimar`s opus (installation No name", 1993) Ambiguity of woman individuum is artisticly presented in Croatian artist Vlasta Delimar`s opus (installation No name", 1993) Personal appearance strenghtens her not only as sexualy conscious artist, but as mother, lover,wife, housewife, saint as well... Personal appearance strenghtens her not only as sexualy conscious artist, but as mother, lover,wife, housewife, saint as well... Installation "No name", 1993 Installation "No name", 1993 ( mirror, photography,paint, textile) (Photo: Courtesy of the Artist)