38 sew NEWS F E B R U A R Y / M A R C H 2 0 1 2

Create a simple and chic stretch

lace jacket that’s perfect to wear

to a dinner party or brunch.

Lovely in Lace

{ by Christine Jonson }

Vogue 1058, View B(modified)

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Pattern SelectionSelect a pattern designed for moderate stretch knits and stretch lace. Most patterns designed for stretch knits have a stretch guide ruler on the envelope to indicate the proper amount of stretch to achieve the correct fit. Select stretch lace fabric that falls within the stretch guide ruler. Choose a pattern with all or some of the following details: V-neckline, simple seams, ¾ length sleeves, separate waistband with tie and close fitting silhouette.

Supplies7 Knit jacket or cardigan pattern (such as Vogue 1058)7 Lightweight stretch lace fabric with ruffled selvedge

(amount according to pattern envelope plus 1⁄4 yard)7 1⁄4”-wide fusible seam tape (amount according to

measurements)7 Thread: all-purpose & tailor’s (See “Sources.”)7 Hand sewing needle7 Pattern tracing cloth 7 Serger (optional)

PrepareCut out the pattern pieces. Before beginning the alterations, pin-fit or make a test-fitting sample of the selected pattern. Make any necessary fit adjustments to the pattern, and then trace a copy on pattern tracing cloth, trans-ferring all markings.

AlterTrim away the upper- and lower-front panel center-front and sleeve lower-edge seam allowances. Trim away the back neckline-facing seam allowances at the shoulders.

CutFold the fabric in half lengthwise with right sides together, aligning the selvedges. Place the upper- and lower-front panel center-front and sleeve lower edge along the selvedge. Place the remaining pattern pieces on the fabric (1). Cut out the pattern pieces. Measure each jacket front and back lower edge; add 4”, and then record for the strip length. Cut one fabric strip from the selvedge edge plus ⅝” by the recorded strip length. If needed, piece fabric strips along the short ends to achieve the required length. Measure each upper and lower center-front edge, back neckline edge and both shoulder seams; record. Cut seam-tape pieces according to the measurements. If ¼”-wide seam tape is unavailable, cut wider seam tape into ¼”-wide strips, but make sure the tape doesn’t ravel when cut. Or use ¼”-wide organza strips.

ConstructUse ⅝” seam allowances unless otherwise noted. Fuse one seam-tape piece along each upper and lower center-front wrong side ¼” from the edge. Thread a hand sewing needle with a length of tailor’s thread. Stitch a 1⁄16” running stitch along each seam- tape center. With right sides together, zigzag stitch the upper-front lower edge to the waistband upper edge; press the seam toward the waistband. Repeat to stitch the lower-front upper edge to the waistband lower edge. Repeat to stitch the remaining upper- and lower-front panels to the remaining waistband. With right sides together, zigzag stitch the waist-band facing to the waistband along the tie extension, ending the stitching at the jacket center front (2). Trim the seam allowances to ¼”. Turn the waistband right side out; press.

S E W N E W S . C O M 39

Tip: Pin-mark each lace piece wrong side for easy reference during construction.

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Fold the unstitched waistband facing upper and lower edges ⅝” toward the wrong side. With wrong sides together, center the waistband facing edges over the waistband stitching lines; pin. Thread a hand sewing needle with a length of tailor’s thread. Slipstitch the waistband edges to the jacket front. Re-peat to stitch the remaining waistband facing to the opposite jacket front. Fuse one seam-tape piece along each back shoulder seamline on the fabric wrong side.Fuse one seam-tape piece along the back neckline seamline on the fabric wrong side. With right sides together, stitch the back neckline facing to the back neckline. With right sides together, align one front and back shoulder seam; pin. Fold the back neckline facing wrong side over the shoulder seam, sand-wiching the front within the back and back-neckline facing layers (3). Pin, and then stitch. Repeat to stitch the remaining shoulder seam. Fold the back neckline facing toward the jacket wrong side; pin. Thread a hand sewing needle with a length of tai-lor’s thread. Hand stitch the lower edge to the jacket back using a running stitch.

With right sides together, serge or zigzag each sleeve to the correspond-ing armseye (4). With wrong sides together, serge the jacket side seam and sleeve seam; finger-press the seam toward one side (5). Or use a zigzag stitch, and then trim the seam to ¼”. With right sides together, fold the jacket along the seamline. Stitch ⅜” from the fold, encasing the raw edges; finger-press the seam toward the jacket back. Re-peat to stitch the remaining jacket side seam and sleeve seam. Align the jacket lower edge and strip raw edge with right sides together, extending the strip short ends ¼” be-yond each center front; pin, and then serge (6). Or zigzag stitch, and then trim the seam to ¼”. Press the seam toward the jacket wrong side.Fold the strip short ends ¼” toward the wrong side. Thread a hand sewing needle with a length of tailor’s thread. Whipstitch the strip short ends and seam allowance to the jacket wrong side (7). Z

SOURCES

B. Black & Sons carries tailor’s thread: (800) 433-1546, bblackandsons.com.

Vogue Patterns carries the featured pattern: voguepatterns.com.

S-t-r-e-t-c-h LACE TIPS

7 Lightweight stretch lace has lengthwise and crosswise stretch and recovery, a soft hand and nice drape. The stretch lace holds its shape even if cut off grain, so cut the jacket pattern pieces either on the lengthwise or crosswise grain.

7 For stressed seams, select a stitch that has stretch and recovery without break-ing, such as a wide zigzag. Hand stitch areas that require more inconspicu-ous and delicate stitching.

7 Cut small triangular notch-es or mark notches using a removable fabric marker for easily visible notches and accurate construction.

7 Lightly press stretch lace using an iron on a low to medium setting and light steam. Use a ham when pressing curved seams.

7 Don’t stretch seams while stitching to prevent puckers or wavy seams.

7 Pin or baste seams to achieve perfectly aligned selvage ends.

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