620

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

AAbra Pampa 221accommodations 588-90, see also

individual locationsAconcagua 14, 330, 15activities 29-33, see also individual

activitiesaddresses 589Aguas Calientes 344Aigo 345air travel

to/from Argentina 600to/from Uruguay 552within Argentina 601-2

Albúfera Mar Chiquita 129Alta Gracia 286-90Aluminé 345-6Amaicha del Valle 253amusement parks, see theme parksAndean Northwest 37, 206-7

accommodations 204climate 204food 204highlights 206-7travel seasons 204

Andes, the 19, 37, 38, 580Angastaco 239angling, see fishinganimals 19, 392, 584-5, 392-3, see

also bird watching, penguin watching, whale watching

capybaras 37, 585, 583elephant seals 389, 584, 13dolphins 392, 393orcas 392penguins 392, 408, 456, 493,

584, 393sea lions 392, 392-3vicuñas 239whales 392, 393

Ansilta 330Antarctica 487

Aquarium Mar del Plata 131-2archaeological sites, see ruinsarchitecture 20area codes 17, 597Área Natural Protegida

Punta Tombo 401Arroyo Los Loros 172art galleries, see also museums

Culturarte 205Museo de Arte Contemporáneo de

Rosario (MACRO) 145Museo de Arte Español

Enrique Larreta 63Museo de Arte Latinoamericano

de Buenos Aires (Malba) 62Museo de Arte Moderno

de Buenos Aires (Mamba) 55Museo de Bellas Artes 118Museo de Bellas Artes de La Boca

Benito Quinquela Martín 57-8Museo de la Historia del Arte

(Uruguay) 501Museo Las Lilas 112Museo Municipal de

Arte Moderno 304Museo Municipal de

Bellas Artes 145Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes

Dr Genaro Pérez 273Museo Nacional de

Arte Decorativo 62Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes 61Museo Provincial de Bellas Artes

Emilio Caraffa 273Pajcha – Museo de Arte Étnico

Americano 223arts 578-9Atlantic Coast 37, 106-7, 124-39,

581, 107accommodations 106climate 106food 106highlights 107travel seasons 106

ATMs 550-1, 593, 602

BBahía Blanca 137-9Bahía Bustamante 403Bajo Caracoles 427-8Balde 295Balneario El Cóndor 383Banco Cormorán 408Bariloche 13, 18, 38, 360-8, 362, 13

accommodations 336climate 336food 336travel seasons 336

Barreal 330-2Barrio Norte 59-61, 60

Basílica Nuestra Señora de Luján 110-11

basketball 557bathrooms 597beaches, see also swimming

Bahía Bustamante 403Carmelo (Uruguay) 522Lago Fagnano 490Mar del Plata 15, 18, 129, 15Miramar 137Montevideo (Uruguay) 505Nechochea 18Paraná 155Pinamar 18, 125Playa El Emir (Uruguay) 532,

508-9Playa Unión 399Puerto Madryn 18Punta del Diablo (Uruguay) 545Punta del Este (Uruguay) 532Rosario 141San Martín de Los Andes 352

beef 123, 524, 571, 116beer 560Belén 259Belgrano 63bicycle travel, see cyclingbird watching 14

Albúfera Mar Chiquita 129Balneario El Cóndor 383Laguna Oca 202Parque Interjurisdiccional Marino

Isla Pingüino 407Parque Nacional Chaco 201Parque Nacional El Palmar 172Parque Nacional El Rey 236Reserva Natural Laguna

Nimez 440-1Reserva Provincial

Esteros del Iberá 163Salta 227Zapala 340

boat travelto/from Argentina 601to/from Uruguay 552within Argentina 602

boat tripsColón 170Cruce de Lagos 371Esquel 416Lago Huechulafquen 351Mar del Plata 132Paraná 155Paraná Delta 145Parque Nacional

Do Iguaçu (Brazil) 188Parque Nacional Iguazú 187Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

(North) 438

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

621

INDEX B

–C

Parque Nacional Los Glaciares (South) 448

Puerto Deseado 406Punta del Este

(Uruguay) 533Reserva Provincial

Esteros del Iberá 166Santa Fe 152Ushuaia 475Villa la Angostura 359

books 556, 561border crossings

Bolivia 213, 222, 600Brazil 189, 600Chile 439, 494, 600-1Paraguay 177, 202, 601Uruguay 171, 553, 601

Borges, Jorge Luis 579budgets 16Buenos Aires 18, 36, 42-105,

44-5, 48-9accommodations 42, 70-8activities 63-7Barrio Norte 59-61, 60Belgrano 63climate 42Congreso 53-4courses 67-8emergency services 99entertainment 87-96festivals & events 69-70food 42, 78-84highlights 44-5internet access 99internet resources 43La Boca 55-8, 58medical services 99Microcentro 46-52Once 63Palermo 61-3, 64-5Puerto Madero 52-3Recoleta 59-61, 60San Telmo 54-5shopping 96-8sights 46-63tourist offices 100tours 68-9travel seasons 42travel to/from 100-1travel within 101-3

Buenos Aires Jazz Festival Internacional 23

bus travelto/from Argentina 601to/from Uruguay 552within Argentina 603, 605within Uruguay 552-3

business hours 549, 592

CCabeza del Indio 377Cabo Corrientes 129, 132Cabo Dos Bahías 402Cabo Polonio (Uruguay) 543-4Cabo Vírgene 413Cacheuta 316-17Cachi 236-8Cachi Adentro 237Cafayate 240-4, 242Caleta Valdés 394Calingasta 330Camarones 401-2Caminito 55, 72Camino de los Artesanos 284camping 588canoeing, see kayaking

& canoeingCañón de Talampaya 266Capilla del Monte 283, 286capybaras 37, 585, 583car travel 17, 553, 603-5Cara Sur de Lanín 351Carlos Paz 283Carmelo (Uruguay) 521-2Carmen de Patagones 382Carnaval 21, 37

Corrientes 159Gualeguaychú 170Humahuaca 219La Rioja 261Montevideo (Uruguay) 505, 506Posadas 176Quebrada de Humahuaca 217Santiago del Estero 254

Carolina 296-7Casa Curutchet 109Casabindo 219Cascada El Saltillo 350Cascada Mallín Ahogado 377Cascadas de Arroyo Blanco 357-8Catamarca 256-8, 258cathedrals, see churches &

cathedralsCaverna de Las Brujas 326caves

Caverna de Las Brujas 326Cueva de las Manos 427Cueva del Milodón 462Cuevas con Pinturas

Repustres 121Cuevas Maragatas 382Inti Huasi 297Pali Aike Cave (Chile) 456

Caviahue 342Cayastá 154cell phones 17, 551, 597Cementerio de la Recoleta 8, 59-61, 8

Central Andes 38, 300accommodations 299climate 299food 299highlights 300travel seasons 299

Central Sierras 38, 281, 268, 282accommodations 267climate 267food 267highlights 268travel seasons 267

Cerro Aconcagua 320-1, 580Cerro Belvedere 359Cerro Castor 476Cerro Catedral 361, 370Cerro Chapelco 357Cerro de la Ventana 121Cerro de los Cóndores 429Cerro La Cumbrecita 290Cerro León 429Cerro López 370Cerro Martial 475, 477Cerro Mercedario 330Cerro Morado 335Cerro Otto 370Cerro Pan de Azúcar 283Cerro Perito Moreno 377Cerro Piltriquitrón 377Cerro San Lorenzo 428Cerro Wank 290Chaco, the 580-1chamamé 159Che, see Guevara, Ernestochildren, travel with 34-5

aquariums 131-2Buenos Aires 53theme parks 63, 104zoos 53, 62, 109, 189, 202

Chilecito 264-6Chirau-Mita 264Cholila 421Chorillo del Salto 438Chos Malal 342-5churches & cathedrals

Basílica Nuestra Señora de Luján 110-11

Catedral de los Santos Pedro y Cecilia 131

Catedral Metropolitana 47Iglesia Catedral 269, 279Iglesia de San Francisco 154Iglesia San Francisco 226, 229

cinema, see filmclimate 16, 21-3climbing, see rock climbingClorinda 202Coa Có 357-8

622

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INDEX C

–F

coca chewing 205coffee 574Colón 170-1Colonia del Sacramento (Uruguay) 11,

516-21, 518, 11, 508Colonia Pellegrini 163Colonia Suiza 370Comodoro Rivadavia 402-5Complejo Museográfico

Enrique Udaondo 111Concepción 168-70Concordia 172-3consulates 590-1Convento y Museo de

San Francisco 151Copahue 341-2Cordillera de Ansilta 330Córdoba 10, 18, 38, 269-81, 270-1, 10

accommodations 267, 274-5climate 267courses 274drinking 276-7entertainment 277food 267, 275-6highlights 268internet access 280medical services 280shopping 277sights 269-74tourist offices 280tours 274travel seasons 267travel to/from 280-1travel within 281

Corona del Inca 265Correa 334Corrientes 158-62, 160Cortázar, Julio 578Cosquín 281-3courses 590

cooking 68dance 274language 68, 145, 227, 274, 305,

364, 505photography 68tango 505yoga 274

credit cards 551, 593-4Cruce de Lagos 371Cueva de las Manos 427Cueva del Milodón 462Cuevas con Pinturas Repustres 121Cuevas Maragatas 382culture 568

currency 16customs regulations 590cycling 32-3, 602, see also mountain

bikingBuenos Aires 63-6Mar del Plata 132Montevideo (Uruguay) 505Pinamar 126Sierra de la Ventana 120Villa la Angostura 359

Ddance 159, see also tangodangers, see safetyde Rosas, Juan Manuel 560-1de Urquiza, Justo José 561deforestation 586dengue fever 592Día de la Tradición 23, 113Día de Virgen de Luján 22Diaguita people 558-9dinosaurs 580Dique Cuesta del Viento 333Dique del Fuerte 118Dirty War 563-4disabilities, travelers with 552, 598diving & snorkeling

Parque Nacional Los Alerces 422

Puerto Madryn 385Reserva Faunística

Península Valdés 390dog sledding 30Dolavon 400drinks 574, see also individual

locationsbeer 560coffee 574mate 574, 116, 538wine 9, 20, 308-311, 574, 9,

308-10, 538driving, see car travel

Eeconomy 556-7, 564, 565, 566El Bolsón 371-7, 372El Cadillal 251El Calafate 440-6, 442-3El Cerrito 446El Chaltén 429-34El Mogote 293El Palmar 172El Shincal 260El Soberbio 180El Zanjón de Granados 54-5electricity 549, 590elephant seals 389, 584, 13embassies 590-1, 549-50

emergencies, see individual locationsenvironmental issues 166, 586Escorial del Diablo 456Esquel 416-20Estancia El Cóndor 432Estancia Harberton 488, 484Estancia La Estanzuela 298Estancia Las Verbenas 296Estancia Santa Catalina 287, 279estancias 14, 428, 529, 589, 14, 116-17

Alta Gracia 287Ave Maria 118-19Bahía Bustamante 403Casa de Piedra 427Cristina 449El Cóndor 432El Galope (Uruguay) 520El Ombú 114Harberton 488José Menéndez 492Hostería Estancia

Helsingfors 449La Cinacina 114La Elvira 394La Estanzuela 298La Paz (Uruguay) 524-5La Porteña 114La Sirena (Uruguay) 523Las Tacanas 251Las Verbenas 296Los Cuartos 250-1María Behety 492Menelik 429Monte Dinero 415Nibepo Aike 449Rincón Chico 394Rincón del Socorro 167Rolito 492-3San Lorenzo 168Santa Catalina 287, 279Sayta 227Tepi 492Viamonte 492Yvytu Itaty (Uruguay) 528

events 21-3, see also festivalsEvita 563, 565exchange rates 17, 496expats 595

FFalkland Islands 413-15, 414Falklands War 565Faro Cabo Polonio (Uruguay) 543Faro José Ignacio (Uruguay) 540fauna, see animalsFestival Internacional de

Cine Independiente 21Festival Nacional del Folklore 21

623

INDEX F–

Hfestivals 21-3

beer 22, 290, 373Casabindo 219film 21, 133, 579fishing 401food 364gaucho culture 23, 528gay & lesbian 70kayaking 379music 21, 23tango 22wine 21

Fiesta Nacional de la Vendimia 21film 548, 556-7, 559, 564, 579

festivals 21, 133Finca Colomé 240fishing 30-2, 31

Aluminé 345Bariloche 361-3El Calafate 441Esquel 416festivals 401Gobernador Gregores 429Isla El Salmón 486Junín de los Andes 347-8La Cumbrecita 290Los Antiguos 426Mar del Plata 132Mercedes (Uruguay) 523Parque Nacional Los Alerces 422Parque Nacional

Los Glaciares (North) 439Parque Nacional Monte León 410Piriápolis (Uruguay) 530Puerto Deseado 405Puerto Madryn 385Río Gallegos 410Río Grande 490, 492Villa Gesell 127

Fitz Roy Range 395, 434, 438, 9flora 585Floralis Genérica 39, 73folklore 233, 576food 19, 538, 548-9, 570-5, 538-9,

see also individual locationsbeef 123, 524, 571, 116cooking courses 68festivals 364ice cream 82, 574, 539price ranges 591vegetarians & vegans 83

football, see fútbolFormosa 202Foz do Iguaçu (Brazil) 194-7, 195fútbol 548, 557, 569, 57

Buenos Aires 66La Bombonera stadium 55, 56, 57museums 504

GGaiman 399-400galleries, see art galleriesGarcía, Charly 577Gardel, Carlos 22, 577gardens, see parks & gardensGarganta del Diablo 121, 216Garganta Olvidada 121gaucho culture 10, 114, 174, 10, 23,

see also estanciasfestivals 23, 528museums 112

gay travelers 591Buenos Aires 95festivals 70Uruguay 550

geography 580-4Gil, Antonio 163Glaciar Martial 475Glaciar Perito Moreno 446-7, 448Glaciar Piedras Blancas 438Glaciar Upsala 448glaciers 448, 586Gobernador Costa 424Gobernador Gregores 429Gran Chaco, the 197-203Gualeguaychú 170guanacos 584Guaraní people 184Guevara, Ernesto 141, 287, 288, 578,

288-9

Hhealth 550, 591-2Hernández, José 578hiking 29-30

Bariloche 18, 361Barreal 331Cachi 237Caviahue 342Cerro Aconcagua 320-1Cerro Belvedere 359Cerro Piltriquitrón 377Chos Malal 343El Bolsón 18El Chaltén 18Fitz Roy Range 395, 434, 438, 9La Cumbrecita 290La Falda 284Laguna Termal 343Mendoza 18Parque Nacional Chaco 201Parque Nacional Lanín 349-50, 351Parque Nacional Los Alerces 423Parque Nacional

Los Glaciares (South) 449Parque Nacional

Los Glaciers (North) 434-8

Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi 368-71Parque Nacional

Sierra de las Quijadas 296Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

486Parque Nacional

Torres del Paine (Chile) 462-4Parque Provincial

Ernesto Tornquist 121Puerto Williams (Chile) 489Salta 227Sierra de la Ventana 120Tilcara 216

history 558-67Dirty War 563-4early exploration 559economic collapse 566Falklands/Malvinas War 565independence 560Perón rule 562-3Spanish rule 559

hitchhiking 553, 605holidays 595horseback riding

Angastaco 239Bariloche 363Buenos Aires 66Cafayate 241La Cumbrecita 290Malargüe 325Mendoza 305Parque Nacional

Los Glaciares (North) 440Parque Nacional

Los Glaciares (South) 449Reserva Faunística

Península Valdés 390Reserva Natural Sierra del Tigre 118Sierra de Rocha (Uruguay) 543Tilcara 217Villa la Angostura 359Villa Pehuenia 346

hot springs & thermal bathsAguas Calientes 344Balde 295Cacheuta 316-17Chos Malal 343Colón 170-1Concordia 172Copahue 341-2Estancia Tepi 492Fiambalá 265Roque Sáenz Peña 202Salto (Uruguay) 526San Clemente del Tuyú 125Termas de Lahuen-Có 351Termas de Río Hondo 257

Humahuaca 219-20human sacrifice 223

624

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INDEX I–

L

Iice cream 82, 574, 539ice trekking

Parque Nacional Torres del Paine (Chile) 464

Iglesia Catedral 269, 279Iglesia de San Francisco 154Iglesia San Francisco 226, 229Iguazú Falls 6, 19, 37, 183, 185-97,

185, 6, 164, 182-3accommodations 140climate 140food 140travel seasons 140

immigration 595, 600Inca people 223inflation 17, 557insurance 550, 592-3, 604internet access 550, 593internet resources 17, 43Inti Huasi 297Iruya 220-1Isla de los Pájaros 394Isla El Salmón 486Isla Monte León 410Isla San Martín 187Islas Malvinas 413-15, 414Itaipú 194itineraries 24-8

JJesuit sites 14, 38, 184, 14

Alta Gracia 287Córdoba 270-1Cripta Jesuítica 272-3Estancia

La Estanzuela 298Jesús de Tavarangüe 177Laguna de los

Padres 132Loreto 179Museo Jesuítico Nacional de

Jesús María 285San Ignacio Miní 179-81Santa Ana 179Santa Catalina 287Trinidad (Paraguay) 177Yapeyú (Paraguay) 176

Jesuits 184Jesús de Tavarangüe, 177Jesús María 285-6Juan José Castelli 203Jujuy 205-12, 210Jujuy province 205-45, 208-9

jungle toursParque Nacional

Do Iguaçu (Brazil) 188Parque Nacional Iguazú 187

Junín de los Andes 346-9

Kkayaking & canoeing 20, 33

Bariloche 363-4festivals 379Mar del Plata 132Parque Nacional El Palmar 171Parque Nacional Los Alerces 422Parque Nacional

Los Glaciares (North) 440Parque Nacional Torres del Paine

(Chile) 463-4Puerto Madryn 385Reserva Faunística

Península Valdés 390San Martín de Los Andes 352Tandil 115Tigre 104Tucumán 246Ushuaia 477

Kirchner, Cristina 556-7, 567Kirchner, Néstor 566-7

LLa Angostura 297-8La Boca 55-8, 58La Bombonera stadium 55, 56, 57La Casa de la Piedra Pintada 297La Cumbre 284-5La Cumbrecita 290-1La Falda 283-4La Glorieta 172La Lobería 383La Mejicana 265La Olla 410La Paloma (Uruguay) 540-2La Pedrera (Uruguay) 542-3La Plata 108-10, 108La Polvorilla 234La Posta de Hornillos 218-19La Quiaca 221La Rambla (Uruguay) 505La Rioja 260-4, 262La Trochita 418La Virgencita 111Lago Argentino 447Lago Cardiel 429Lago Cisne 423Lago del Desierto 438Lago Fagnano 490Lago General Vintter 424Lago Huechulafquen 349-50, 351Lago Lácar 350

Lago Lolog 350Lago Ñorquinco 349Lago Onelli 448-9Lago Paimún 350Lago Quillén 349Lago Roca 449Lago Rucachoroi 345, 349Lago Tromen 349, 351Laguna Amarga 462Laguna Blanca 202Laguna de Castillos (Uruguay) 544Laguna de los Padres 132Laguna de los Tres 438Laguna Don Tomás 122Laguna Llancancelo 326Laguna Los Horcones 320Laguna Los Patitos 236Laguna Negra 486Laguna Oca 202Laguna Sucia 438Laguna Termal 343Laguna Toro 438Lake District 38, 336-77, 581-4, 337

accommodations 336climate 336food 336highlights 337travel seasons 336

language 16, 556, 606-13Las Grutas 383Las Hornillas 331Las Leñas 12, 326-7, 12Las Madres de la

Plaza de Mayo 564Las Yungas 251legal matters 550, 593lesbian travelers 591

Buenos Aires 95festivals 70Uruguay 550

lifestyle 568-9Lipeo 216literature 561, 578,

see also booksllamas 584Llao Llao 368Llullaillaco 223Loma del Pliegue Tumbado 438Londres 260Loreto 179Loro Hablador 203Los Antiguos 426-7Los Esteros del Iberá 14, 163, 163-5Los Gigantes 293Los Molles 326Los Penitentes 319-20Los Tamarindos 295Luján 110-12

625

INDEX M

–N

MMAAM 222-3Maimará 218Maipú 318Malargüe 325-6malaria 592Malvinas War 565mansions, see palaces & mansionsManzana Jesuítica 269-71maps 550, 593Mapuche people 347Mar Azul 127Mar Chiquita 129Mar de las Pampas 127Mar de Sud 137Mar del Plata 15, 18, 128-35, 130, 15Maradona, Diego 569markets

Bahía Blanca 138Buenos Aires 98El Bolsón 372Montevideo (Uruguay) 497, 509San Luis 294

mate 574, 116, 538Mendoza 38, 301-16, 302-3

accommodations 299, 306-7climate 299drinking 313entertainment 313food 299, 307-12internet access 314medical services 314shopping 313-14sights 303-5tourist offices 314tours 306travel seasons 299travel to/from 314-15travel within 315-16

Menem, Carlos Saúl 565-6Mercado del Puerto (Uruguay) 497,

509Mercedes 162-3Mercedes (Uruguay) 522-3Merlo 292-4Mesopotamia 581Messi, Lionel 557, 569Mina Clavero 291-2Miramar 137Mitre, Bartolomé 561-2, 563mobile phones 17, 551, 597Mocoví people 200Moisés Ville 174Molinos 239money 16, 17, 593-4, 602

discount cards 590Uruguay 550-1

Monte Tronador 370

Montevideo (Uruguay) 497-516, 500-1, 502-3

accommodations 505-7activities 505courses 505drinking 511emergency services 513entertainment 511-13festivals & events 505food 507-11internet access 514medical services 514shopping 513sights 497-505travel to/from 514-15travel within 515-16

Monumento Natural Bosques Petrificados 407-8

monumentsMonumento Nacional

a La Bandera 144-5Obelisco 54, 72

motorcycle travel 553, 603-5mountain biking 33,

see also cyclingBariloche 361Esquel 416La Cumbrecita 290Tilcara 216

mountaineering 30mountains

Ansilta 330Cerro Aconcagua 320-1, 580Cerro Belvedere 359Cerro Castor 476Cerro Catedral 361, 370Cerro Chapelco 357Cerro de la Ventana 121Cerro de los Cóndores 429Cerro La Cumbrecita 290Cerro León 429Cerro López 370Cerro Martial 475, 477Cerro Mercedario 330Cerro Morado 335Cerro Otto 370Cerro Pan de Azúcar 283Cerro Perito Moreno 377Cerro Piltriquitrón 377Cerro San Lorenzo 428Cerro Wank 290El Mogote 293Llullaillaco 223Volcán Batea Mahuida 346Volcán Copahue 343Volcán Domuyo 343Volcán Lanín 349Volcán Tupungato 322

Mundo Marino 125

murga 576museums

Complejo Museográfico Enrique Udaondo 111

Cripta Jesuítica 272-3El Zanjón de Granados 54-5Glaciarium 440Museo de Arqueología de

Alta Montaña (MAAM) 222-3Museo de Arte Contemporáneo

de Rosario 145Museo de Arte Latinoamericano

de Buenos Aires 62Museo de Arte Moderno

de Buenos Aires 55Museo de Artesanías

Tradicionales Folclóricas 158Museo del Cablecarril 264Museo del Hombre

Chaqueño 197Museo Evita 62Museo Folklórico 260Museo Fortabat 52Museo Gauchesco Ricardo

Güiraldes 112Museo Histórico Nacional 55Museo Jesuítico Nacional

de Jesús María 285Museo Municipal

de Bellas Artes 145Museo Nacional

de Arte Decorativo 62Museo Nacional de Bellas Artes 61Museo Paleontológico

Egidio Feruglio 395Pajcha – Museo de Arte Étnico

Americano 223music 576-7

chamamé 159festivals 21, 23folklore 233

Nnational parks & reserves 583, 582-3

Parque Interjurisdiccional Marino Isla Pingüino 407

Parque Nacional Baritú 216Parque Nacional Bernardo

O’Higgins (Chile) 462Parque Nacional Calilegua 216Parque Nacional Chaco 201Parque Nacional Do Iguaçu (Brazil)

188-90Parque Nacional El Palmar 171-2Parque Nacional El Rey 236Parque Nacional Iguazú 186-8Parque Nacional Lago Puelo 377Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca 341Parque Nacional Lanín 349, 350Parque Nacional Lihué Calel 124

626

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX N

–P

national parks & reserves continuedParque Nacional Los Alerces

422-4, 422Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes

358-9Parque Nacional Los Cardones 236Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

(North) 434-40, 435Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

(South) 446-9, 447Parque Nacional Monte León 410Parque Nacional Nahuel Haupi

368-71, 369, 375Parque Nacional Pali Aike (Chile)

456Parque Nacional Perito Moreno

428-9Parque Nacional Quebrada

del Condorito 291Parque Nacional Santa Teresa

(Uruguay) 546Parque Nacional Sierra

de las Quijadas 296, 278Parque Nacional Talampaya 265,

266Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

482-8, 483, 484-5Parque Nacional Torres del Paine

(Chile) 462-9Reserva Ecológica Costanera

Sur 52-3Reserva Natural

Ría Deseado 407Reserva Natural

Sierra del Tigre 118Reserva Provincial Esteros

del Iberá 163-8, 164-5Necochea 18, 136-7Neuquén 338-9newspapers 589Nido de Aguila 291Northeast, the 37, 142-3

accommodations 140climate 140food 140highlights 142-3travel seasons 140

OObelisco 54, 72Ocampo, Victoria 132Once 63opening hours 549, 592orcas 584

PPajcha – Museo de Arte Étnico

Americano 223Pali Aike Cave (Chile) 456palaces & mansions

Casa Curutchet 109Casa Rosada 47Castillo de Piria 531Guardia del Monte 544Museo Regional

Braun-Menéndez 450Palacio Barolo 54Palacio Paz 59Palacio San José 169Quinta Los Ombues 103Villa Ocampo 103

Palacio Barolo 54Palacio San José 169Palermo 61-3, 64Pali Aike Cave (Chile) 456Pampa Linda 371Pampas, the 37, 106-24, 581, 107

accommodations 106climate 106food 106highlights 107travel seasons 106

Papagayos 298paragliding 20, 33

Bariloche 364Tucumán 246

Paraná 154-8, 156Paraná Delta 145parks & gardens

Chirau-Mita 264Jardín Japonés 62Parque Aguirre 253Parque General San Martín 305Parque Piedra Buena 382Parque Yatana 475Paseo del Bosque 109

Parque Aguirre 253Parque Archaeologico Colo

Michi-Co 344Parque das Aves 189Parque de la Costa 104Parque de los Menhires 252Parque Interjurisdiccional

Marino Isla Pingüino 407Parque Nacional Baritú 216Parque Nacional Bernardo O’Higgins

(Chile) 461Parque Nacional Calilegua 216Parque Nacional Chaco 201Parque Nacional Do Iguaçu

(Brazil) 188-90Parque Nacional El Palmar 171-2Parque Nacional El Rey 236Parque Nacional Iguazú 186-8

Parque Nacional Lago Puelo 377Parque Nacional Laguna Blanca 341Parque Nacional Lanín 349, 350Parque Nacional Lihué Calel 124Parque Nacional Los Alerces

422-4, 422Parque Nacional Los Arrayanes 358-9Parque Nacional Los Cardones 236Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

(North) 434-40, 435Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

(South) 446-9, 447Parque Nacional Monte León 410Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi

368-71, 369, 375Parque Nacional Pali Aike (Chile) 456Parque Nacional Perito Moreno 428-9Parque Nacional Quebrada

del Condorito 291Parque Nacional Santa Teresa

(Uruguay) 546Parque Nacional Sierra

de las Quijadas 296, 278Parque Nacional Talampaya 265, 266Parque Nacional Tierra del Fuego

482-8, 483, 484-5Parque Nacional Torres del Paine

(Chile) 462-9, 464Parque Piedra Buena 382Parque Provincial Aconcagua 320-2Parque Provincial

Ernesto Tornquist 121Parque Provincial Ischigualasto 335Parque Provincial Miguel Lillo 136Parque Provincial Payunia 326Parque Provincial

Volcán Tupungato 322Parque Sierra de San Javier 251Parque Temaikén 53Parque Yatana 475Paseo del Bosque 109Paso de las Nubes 370Paso de los Libres 173-4passports 552, 600Patagonia 39, 378-469, 581-4, 380-1

accommodations 378climate 378food 378highlights 380-1travel seasons 378

pato 569Paysandú (Uruguay) 523-5penguin watching 493, 584

Antarctica 487Bahía Bustamante 403Banco Cormorán 408Cabo Dos Bahías 402Cabo Polonio (Uruguay) 543Falkland Islands/Islas Malvinas 413

627

INDEX P

–R

Parque Interjurisdiccional Marino Isla Pingüino 407

Parque Nacional Monte León 410Porvenir (Chile) 491Puerto Pirámides 394Punta Arenas (Chile) 451, 456Punta Tombo 401Reserva Faunística

Península Valdés 389Río Gallegos 412

Península Valdés 13, 584Perito Moreno 6, 425-6, 6-7Perón, Eva 563, 565

gravesite 62museums 62

Perón, Juan 562-3, 564phonecards 597photography 589Piedra del Fraile 438Piedra Mala 350Piletones 121Pinamar 18, 125-7Pinturas Rupestres 429Piriápolis (Uruguay) 529-31planning, see also individual regions

Argentina’s regions 36-9budgeting 16calendar of events 21-3children 34-5internet resources 17itineraries 24-8travel seasons 16, 21-3

plants 585Playa Bristol 129Playa de los Amonites 429Playa del Emir (Uruguay) 532, 508-9Playa Escondida 129Playa Grande 129Playa La Perla 129Playa Varese 129Playa Waikiki 129Plaza de Mayo 47pop music 577population 548, 556Porvenir (Chile) 493-4Posadas 175-8, 175postal services 594-5Potrero de la Aguada 296Pozo Verde 236provincial parks, see also national

parks & reservesParque Provincial

Aconcagua 320-2Parque Provincial

Ernesto Tornquist 121Parque Provincial

Ischigualasto 335Parque Provincial Miguel Lillo 136Parque Provincial Payunia 326

Parque Provincial Volcán Tupungato 322

Reserva Provincial Fuerte Esperanza 203

Reserva Provincial Parque Luro 123-4

public holidays 551, 595Pucará 213Puerto Canoa 349, 351Puerto Deseado 405-7Puerto Iguazú 189Puerto Madryn 18, 383-9, 384Puerto Natales (Chile) 456-61, 458-9Puerto Pañuelo 368Puerto Pirámides 389-94Puerto San Julián 408-10Puerto Williams (Chile) 488-90Puig, Manuel 578Punta Arenas (Chile) 450-6, 452Punta Cantor 394Punta del Diablo 545-6Punta del Este (Uruguay) 532-40,

534, 508-9Punta Mogotes 129Punta Norte 394-5Punta Tombo 401Purmamarca 212-13, 228

QQuebrada de Cafayate 244-5, 228Quebrada de Humahuaca 8, 212-21,

8, 214-15Quebrada de los Cuervos

(Uruguay) 530Quequén 136Querandí people 558Quilmes 253Quinta Los Ombues 103

Rradio 589rafting 20, 33, 31

Aluminé 345Bariloche 363-4Barreal 331Chos Malal 343El Bolsón 373Esquel 416Mendoza 305Necochea 136Parque Nacional Do Iguaçu

(Brazil) 188Potrerilllos 317Salta 227San Martín de Los Andes 352Villa Pehuenia 346

Rawson 399Recoleta 59-61, 60

Recoleta Cemetery 8, 59, 61, 8religion 548, 557Reserva Ecológica Costanera Sur 52-3Reserva Faunística

Península Valdés 389-94, 390Reserva Natural de Merlo 293Reserva Natural Laguna Nimez 440-1Reserva Natural Loro Hablador 203Reserva Natural Ría Deseado 407Reserva Natural Sierra del Tigre 118Reserva Provincial Esteros

del Iberá 163-8, 164-5Reserva Provincial

Fuerte Esperanza 203Reserva Provincial Parque Luro 123-4reserves, see national parks &

reservesResistencia 197-201, 198restrooms 597Río Blanco 438Río Colorado 241Río de la Plata 580Río Eléctrico 438Río Gallegos 410-13, 446, 411Río Grande 490-1Río Mayo 424-5Río Mina Clavero 292Río Negro 383Río Paraná 141Río Uruguay 168rock climbing 20, 30

Mar del Plata 132Mendoza 305Parque Nacional Do Iguaçu

(Brazil) 188Parque Nacional Los Glaciares

(North) 440Parque Nacional Nahuel Huapi 370Parque Nacional Torres del Paine

(Chile) 464rock music 577Rodeo 333Roque Sáenz Peña 201-3Rosario 141-50, 144-5Route of the Artisans 238rugby 569ruins

El Shincal 260Jesús de Tavarangüe 177Loreto 179Pucará 213Quilmes 253San Ignacio Miní 179-81, 164Santa Ana 179Santa María la Mayor 179Trinidad 177

Ruta de los Siete Lagos 10, 354, 354, 354-5

Ruta Nacional 40 417, 26

628

000 Map pages000 Photo pages

INDEX S

–U

SSábato, Ernesto 578safety 99, 595-6

hitchhiking 553, 605road 604-5

Salazar 345Salinas Grandes 235Salta 12, 37, 222-34, 224-5, 12

accommodations 227-31drinking 232-3entertainment 232-3food 231-2medical services 233shopping 233sights 222-7tourist offices 233tours 227travel to/from 234travel within 234

Salta province 205-45, 206-7, 208-9accommodations 204climate 204food 204highlights 206-7travel seasons 204

Salto (Uruguay) 526-8Salto Arrechea 187Salto del Penitente (Uruguay) 533Salto San Martín 187Saltos del Moconá 180Saltos del Quequén 136San Agustín de Valle Fértil 333-4San Antonio de Areco 112-15, 113San Antonio de los Cobres 235San Carlos 239-40San Clemente del Tuyú 125San Ignacio 179-81San Ignacio Miní 179-81, 164San Isidro 103San José de Jáchal 333San Juan 328-30, 332San Luis 294-5San Martín de los Andes 351-7, 352San Rafael 322-4, 323San Telmo 13, 54-5, 48-9, 13Santa Ana 179Santa Fe 150-4, 151Santa María 252Santa María la Mayor 179Santa Rosa 121-3Santiago del Estero 253-6, 255Seclantás 238senior travelers 590

Seno Otway 456Sierra de la Ventana 120-1skiing & snowboarding 20, 32, 374-5

Bariloche 361Caviahue 342Cerro Chapelco 357Cerro Perito Moreno 377Esquel 416Las Leñas 12, 326-7, 12Los Penitentes 319Mendoza 305San Martín de Los Andes 352Ushuaia 475, 476-7Villa la Angostura 359Villa Pehuenia 346

skydiving 33smoking 589, 596snorkeling, see diving &

snorkelingsnowboarding, see skiing &

snowboardingsoccer, see fútbolsoybeans 581sports 557Stanley 414stately homes, see palaces &

mansionssubway 605surfing

Cabo Polonio (Uruguay) 544La Paloma (Uruguay) 540Mar del Plata 132Miramar 137Necochea 136Punta del Diablo (Uruguay) 545Punta del Este (Uruguay) 533Rodeo 333Villa Gesell 127

swimming, see also beachesAguas Calientes 344Bahía Bustamante 403Buenos Aires 66-7Cafayate 241Cosquín 283El Cadillal 251El Volcán 297La Cumbrecita 290La Falda 284Merlo 293Mina Clavero 291Montevideo (Uruguay) 505Papagayos 298Parque Nacional

Lago Puelo 377Piriápolis 530Reserva Natural de Merlo 293Tandil 118Tilcara 216

TTacuarembó (Uruguay) 528Tafí del Valle 250-2Tandil 115-20tango 22, 88-91, 548, 576, 22, 89, 91taxes 594taxi travel 605Teatro Colón 53, 72-3telephone services 17, 596-7tennis 557Termas de Río Hondo 257Termas Marinas 125theater 548theaters

Teatro Colón 53, 72-3Teatro Juan de Vera 159Teatro Nacional Cervantes 59

theme parksPuerto San Julián 409Tierra Santa 63Tigre 104

thermal baths, see hot springs & thermal baths

Tierra del Fuego 39, 470-94, 584, 472-3

accommodations 470climate 470food 470highlights 472travel seasons 470

Tierra Santa 63Tigre 103-5Tilcara 213-18time 551, 556, 597tipping 551, 594Toba people 200toilets 597Tolhuin 490tourist information 597-8Train to the Clouds 234-5train travel

to/from Argentina 601within Argentina 605

trekking, see hikingTrelew 395-9, 396Tren a las Nubes 234-5Tren Patagónico 386Tres Lagos 429Trevelin 420-1Trinidad ruins 177Tucumán 245-50, 246-7Tunuyán 322Tupungato 330

UUFOs 286unemployment 566Uquía 219

INDEX

629

INDEX U

–Z

Uritorco 286Uruguay 39, 495-554, 498-9

accommodations 495, 549budget 496climate 495drinks 496, 548embassies 549-50exchange rates 496food 495, 496, 548gay & lesbian travelers 550highlights 498-9history 547internet access 550money 550-1population 548public holidays 551religion 548travel seasons 495travel to/from 496, 552travel within 552-4visas 496, 552

Ushuaia 11, 18, 471-82, 474-5, 11, 484

accommodations 478-80activities 475-7drinking 481festivals 478food 480-1medical services 481shopping 481sights 471-5tourist offices 481-2tours 477-8travel to/from 482travel within 482

Uspallata 317-19

Vvacations 595Valle de Calingasta 330-2Valle de Conlara 298Valle de la Luna 335Valle de las Pinturas 124Valle de las Sierras Puntanas 296-8Valle de Uco 321Valle del Lunarejo (Uruguay) 530

Valles Calchaquíes 236-40vegan & vegetarian travelers 83, 575Ventisquero Negro 370vicuñas 239Viedma 379-83Villa General Belgrano 283, 290Villa Gesell 127-8Villa la Angostura 358-60Villa Ocampo 103Villa Pehuenia 346Villa Serrana (Uruguay) 533Villa Traful 357-8Villa Ventana 122Villavicencio 317visas 17, 598

Uruguay 552Volcán Batea Mahuida 346Volcán Copahue 343Volcán Domuyo 343Volcán Lanín 349Volcán Tupungato 322volunteering 552, 598-9

W‘W’, the 462, 466-7walking, see hikingWar of the Triple Alliance 563weather 16, 21-3Welsh settlement 397, 563whale watching 22, 390-1, 549

Antarctica 487Cabo Dos Bahías 402Cabo Polonio (Uruguay) 543Falkland Islands/

Islas Malvinas 413Península Valdés 13Puerto Madryn 383Puerto Pirámides 390-1Punta Norte 394Reserva Faunística

Península Valdés 389Reserva Faunística

Punta Loma 389white-water rafting, see raftingWichí people 200wildlife, see animalswindsurfing 33

El Cadillal 251Mar Chiquita 129Montevideo (Uruguay) 505Puerto Deseado (Chile) 406Puerto Madryn 385Rodeo 333San Clemente del Tuyú 125

wine 9, 20, 308-311, 574, 9, 308-10, 538

festivals 21wine regions

Cafayate 240-1Chilecito 264Mendoza 306, 316Neuquén 338San Juan 332San Rafael 323Valle de Uco 321

women travelers 552, 599work 599World Heritage sites

Alta Gracia 286-90Colonia del Sacramento (Uruguay)

11, 516-21, 518, 11, 508Cueva de las Manos 427Manzana Jesuítica 269-71Quebrada de Humahuaca 8, 212-21,

8, 214-15Reserva Faunística

Península Valdés 389-94, 390Santa Catalina 287, 279

YYapeyú 176Yavi 222yellow fever 592yoga 67

ZZapala 340-1zoos

Buenos Aires 53, 62La Plata 109Parque das Aves 189Roque Sáenz Peña 202

Walking TourDetour

Walking Tour

Path

Beach

Diving/Snorkelling

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

DrinkingCafe

Post OfficeTourist Information

AirportBorder CrossingBus

CyclingFerryMetroMonorailParking

TaxiS-Bahn

Train/RailwayTramTube StationU-BahnOther Transport

LighthouseHut/Shelter

LookoutMountain/VolcanoOasisParkPassPicnic AreaWaterfall

River/CreekIntermittent RiverSwamp/MangroveReefCanalWaterDry/Salt/Intermittent LakeGlacier

Beach/DesertCemetery(Christian)Cemetery (Other)Park/ForestSportsgroundSight (Building)Top Sight(Building)

International

DisputedRegional/SuburbMarine ParkCliffWall

Capital (National)Capital(State/Province)City/Large TownTown/Village

State/Province

Camping

Canoeing/KayakingSkiingSurfingSwimming/PoolWalkingWindsurfingOther Activity/Course/Tour

BuddhistCastleChristianHinduIslamicJewishMonumentMuseum/GalleryRuinWinery/VineyardZooOther Sight

LaneTertiary

TollwayFreewayPrimary

StepsPlaza/Mall

PedestrianOverpass

Secondary

Unsealed Road

Tunnel

Cable Car/Funicular

Sights

Activities, Courses& Tours

Sleeping

Eating

Entertainment

Shopping

Drinking

Information

Transport

Geographic

Hydrography

Areas

Boundaries

Population

RoutesMap Legend

630

These symbols will help you find the listings you want:

Reviews are organised by author preference.

% Telephone Numbersh Opening Hoursp Parkingn Nonsmokinga Air-Conditioningi Internet Access

W Wi-Fi Accesss Swimming Poolv Vegetarian SelectionE English-Language Menuc Family-Friendly# Pet-Friendly

g Busf Ferrym Metrob Subwayj Tramd Train

These symbols give you the vital information for each listing: Our authors have nominated these places as demonstrating a strong commitment to sustainability – for example by supporting local communities and producers, operating in an environmentally friendly way, or supporting conservation projects.

o Our author’s

recommendation

F No payment required

S A green or sustainable option

Look out for these icons:

z Festivals & Events

4 Sleeping

5 Eating

6 Drinking1 Sights

2 Activities

r Beaches

C Courses

T Tours

3 Entertainment

7 Shopping

8 Information/

Transport

614

OUR READERS Many thanks to the travelers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: Leif Ahlgren, Steve Ariantaj, Valerie Ballester, Stefaan Baumont, Joerg Bongartz, Diana Brandt, Bernd Breugem, Chiara Brivio, Shiloh Burrows, Victor Cabot, Brad Cantrell, Susanne Christau, Dawn Clarke, Nicolas Combremont, Leontine Crisson, Obed Dominguez, William K Elbring, Wilma Eze-kowitz, Sandrine Fecker, Bill Fellows, Marta Fernandes, Sara Francis, Adrian Frey, Carlos Garcia, Brad Gardiner, Ramrio Gonzalez, Susann Gremler, Elisabeth Haase, Chris Hastings, Daniel Hatfield, Marjolein Hettinga, Stefan Hey, Kälin Nardin Josef, Eric Jensen, Marlene Kadikowski, Angela Kaufmann, Christoph Kessel, Marcin Konczykowski, Olivia Lamont, Lone & Ronald Larsen, Sergio & Anita Macgillavry, Marta Macias, Veronika Huber & Robert Marschinski, Noa Matzliach, Lea Mayer, Chris McMahon, Alejandra Moreno, Chiara Motta, Kristin Murpf, Alec Nacamuli, Stefan Nienstedt, Jorgelina Rodriguez Otero, Christien Oudshoorn, Astrid Padberg, Christophe Poggioli, Johan-nes Pöhlandt, Diederik Ravesloot, Philippe Rivoal, Marcelo Rizzi, Ewa Robertson, John Rocburgh, Sander Ruitenbeek, Alan Patrick Seabright, Josephine Steininger, Paul Stof-

fele, Trevor Sze, Guilherme Beyer Tho, Linda Thomson, Jan Willem van Hofwegen, Olivier Verhelst, Martin Walters, Ray & Marilyn Winter, J Ronald Wolff, Sylvia M Zapiola, Abby Zeveloff

AUTHOR THANKS Sandra Bao I’m grateful for the support of my veteran co-authors, along with commissioning edi-tor Kathleen Munnelly. This book wouldn’t be the fi ne thing it is without the help from Katie Alley, Jeff Barry, Sally Blake, Michael Cando, Miriam Cutler, Gustavo Ferrari, Judy Hutton, Madi Lang, Elizabeth Lovelace, Lu-cas Markowiecki, Maya May, Jimena Moses, Frances Ren (and Duff ), Kristie Robinson, Jed Rothenburg and Sylvia Zapiola. Thanks especially to my godmother Elsa, and lots of love to my husband and house-watcher Ben Greensfelder.

Gregor Clark Muchísimas gracias to the dozens of Uru-guayans and resident expatriates who shared Uruguay’s beauty with me, especially Miguel and Monica at El Galope, Lucia and Rodney at La Sirena, Nahir, Pedro and María Rosa at Yvytu Itaty, Rodrigo and Alejandra in Punta del Este, Brian in Punta del Diablo, Alain, Flor-encia, Delfi na, François and Danilo in Monte-

behind the scenes

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615BEH

IND TH

E SCENES

video and Gloria in Colonia. Back home, abra-zos to Gaen, Meigan and Chloe, whose love and support sustained me through 3000km of Uruguayan wanderings.

Carolyn B McCarthy Many people make a journey. Deep gratitude goes out to those whose help and support was instrumental along the way, especially Sandra Bao, Marcelo and Cecilia, Rafael Smart, Pedro Aquino, Alejandro, Astrid and Matias. In Ushuaia, Frances Basily concocted the world’s best omelet. Expert tips came from Gaston, Hernan and Anita. Finally, hats off to Nicolas Rouviere for his skillful driving, truck maintenance and overall assuring pres-ence. And to Andres Fernandez for saving the Hilux one last time.

Andy Symington Many helpful and friendly people off ered advice, information, and assistance along the way. These include the tourist offi ces of Posa-das, Tucumán, Chilecito and Jujuy, and nu-merous taxi and remise drivers always keen to impart local knowledge. Specifi c thanks to Sebastián Clerico, Paola Carenzo, Graciela Chávez, to my family for their support, to Kathleen Munnelly and the Lonely Planet team, to Sandra Bao and all my fellow au-

thors. Most importantly, mil gracias, amor to Elena Vázquez Rodríguez for accompanying me everywhere despite the Atlantic between.

Lucas VidgenThanks fi rst and foremost to the Argentines in general for making a country that’s such a joy to travel and work in. In Mendoza, Charlie O’Malley was once again a great source of information and general gossip and in Cór-doba, Ana Navarta provided some invaluable insights. Diego Rossi, Facundo Carrizo and Ofelia Ledesma helped fi ll in some serious blanks. And as always, thanks to América, Sofía and Teresa for being there, and for be-ing there when I got back.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Climate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classifi cation’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633 44.

***Editor: if your book includes illustrations or Illustrated Highlights, include a credit for external illustrators here. Use the following format (styled as Body Text): Illustrations pXX, pXX by Joe Bloggs; pXX by Jane Bloggs.***Cover photograph: Guanacos in the Fitz Roy Range, Grafi ssimo/Getty Images. Many of the images in this guide are available for licensing from Lonely Planet Images: www.lonelyplanetimages.com.

This Book This 8th edition of Lonely Planet’s Argentina guidebook was researched and written by Sandra Bao, Gregor Clark, Carolyn McCarthy, Andy Syming-ton and Lucas Vidgen. Sandra, Gregor, Andy and Lucas also worked on the previous edition, along with Bridget Gleeson. This guidebook was commissioned in Lonely Planet’s Oakland office, and produced by the following: Commissioning Editor Kathleen Munnelly Coordinating Editor Justin Flynn

Coordinating Cartogra-pher Valeska Cañas Coordinating Layout Designer Virginia Moreno Managing Editors Anna Metcalfe, Bruce Evans, Martine Power, Dianne Schallmeiner Managing Cartographer Alison LyallManaging Layout Designer Jane Hart person who wrote the mapping brief

Assisting Editors Janice Bird, Jessica Crouch, Paul Harding, Kellie Langdon, Kate Mathews, Charles Rawlings-Way

Assisting Cartographers Jane Chapman Cover Research Naomi Parker Internal Image Research Nicholas ColicchiaLanguage Content Branislava Vladisavljevic Thanks to Melanie Dankel, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Briohny Hooper, Charlotte Orr, Trent Paton, Raphael Richards, Gabbi Stefanos, Gerard Walker, Simon Williamson

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