loire and normandy - wild swimming · 240 loire and normandy 241 it looked like the zambezi: the...

236 Loire and Normandy 237

Loire and NormandyThe magnificent Loire, one of the last undeveloped rivers of Western Europe, passes slowly through this region, alongside elegant châteaux and through lush countryside. On the banks of the Loire’s many beautiful tributaries, there are secluded spots for relaxing swims and picnics.

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166c lavardinOne of the prettiest villages on the Loir, with a superb open-air restaurant by the river.

167 pont romainNot quite the Pont du Gard, but this ivy-clad, romantic ruin down a track is a real find. Beautiful river pools and an island, too.

168c château d’usséYou can swim in the Indre near this fairytale castle, but a more exciting swim is from the sandy banks leading down to the wild Loire.

173b clécyA popular weir, with a café, on the river Orne. You can hire pedalos form the canoe centre upstream.

Loire and Normandy

164 chenonceauFew people realise that it’s possible to swim in the river pool upstream of this exquisite château spanning the river Cher. Admire its architecture from the water as the sun sets.

165 étang de monperchéA large, dark lake set in the wooded wonderland of the Sologne, on one of the Loire’s extensive cycleways.


It looked like the Zambezi: the sun low in the sky, sandy islands glowing golden across the great Loire and flocks of birds roosting in the high elephant grass. I camped out and took an evening swim, diving into the warm water from the sandy bank. Floating out into the gentle flow, I gazed back towards the edge and half expected a crocodile to slide out of the undergrowth. In fact, I was just by Château d’Ussé 168c.

The Loire, at the heart of this rich, historic region, has never been developed for hydroelectric power or used as a navigation route for transporting goods. By the time it reaches Orléans on its long journey from the Massif Central, it has grown from a rivière to a substantial fleuve. There are plenty of shallows for safe paddling, but with up to a kilometre between the river banks in the Loire’s broadest sections, it’s wise to exercise caution. The soft, shifting riverbed can

164 chenonceaulat long: 47.3247, 1.0731walk in: 10 mins, easy

Magnificent swim on Cher under famous château. River island with ruin upstream.

,From Chisseaux at D40 road bridge (by ! Le Moulin Fort) follow L bank footpath downstream 700m to wooded river bays above château. Further swimming upstream on R bank by island with ruined castle. Also town beach at historic Montrichard.

a St-Aignan 20km upstream (D17 from Montrichard). Park at swimming pool by town bridges and walk 200m upstream to find sandy beaches and grassy banks or continue to weir (47.2711, 1.3783). Riverside ! Les Cochards 1km E off D17, and further wonderful wild beaches to explore on tracks to L to Couffy (47.2611, 1.4169).

b Chatillon-sur-Cher Pleasant riverside swims, by bridge off D976 (47.2694, 1.4881) and also at Chabris, 12km upstream (47.2608, 1.6531).

165 étang de monperchélat long: 47.5867, 1.6011walk in: 3 mins, moderate

Large secluded lake with jetty for jumps in heart of forest. Dark, peaty water.

,From Thoury (5km E of Château de Chambord) take D22 dir Dhuizon. After 2.2km turn R on forest track (also GR de Pays de Châteaux) and park at end after 3km. Lake is 200m S (across gate, R then L). Also accessible from Neuvy (Rue de Thoury).

a Etang de L’Oie Warm, shallow lake in watery Sologne. Turn off D60 1.1km S of Bauzy (S of Neuvy) on to minor road (Terres de la Grille/CR22 cycle route) and find lake on left after 2.3.km (47.5111, 1.6094).

b Montlivault Riverside beach on Loire with sandy shallows and islands opposite Château de Menars. 5km W of Chambord, off D951, 2.3km S of Montlivault. Parking on track parallel to road, next to river (47.6336, 1.4139).

166 l’isle vertelat long: 47.7581, 0.6964walk in: 1 min, easy

Pretty island park for deep, long swims.

,20km E of A28/J26. From cemetery in Couture-sur-Loir (D10) follow sign to river. Park and cross wooden bridge.

a Artins 5km E of Couture on D10. Pleasant park and picnic area with rope swing, by bridge at Vieux Bourg (47.7553, 0.7425).

b Troo Grassy riverbank path leads upstream from bridge beneath trees (D917). Or 500m further E find café R Guinguette des Îles (E 06 79 04 54 45) on manicured islands (47.7742, 0.8014).

c Lavardin E of Troo with hilltop ruin and delightful riverside restaurant R Relais d’Antan. Grassy bays on opposite bank (47.7436, 0.8869).

d Pont du Breuil, 1km W of Thoré-la-Rochette (D82). Grassy area with pontoon by bridge. Or turn L, then 500m to terrain communal river access.

Cher & Loir

166 L’Isle Vert 166c

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242 Loire and Normandy

165 étang de monperchéOnce home to the king’s fish

165a etang de l’oieOne of many lakes in the watery Sologne region


make for unpredictable channels and flows, yet if you are a confident swimmer it can be exciting to ride with the currents. For gentler swims, head for the places with river beaches where local families regularly bathe (165b, 170b).

Many of France’s most famous châteaux cluster along the region’s smaller rivers – the tributaries of the Loire. The Cher flows among vineyards and orchards and is the setting for one of the Loire Valley’s most exquisite châteaux, Chenonceau 64. Its perfect line of white Renaissance arches spans the river and provides a stunning and memorable backdrop for anyone who swims here. You can access the large river pool from the wooded bay just upstream, adjacent to the picturesque ruins of an old mill, le Moulin Fort. Upstream to the east are several other delightful swimming locations, such as the sandy riverside beaches at St-Aignan 164a and quiet riverbanks of Chatillon-sur-Cher 164b.

The Loire Valley’s grandest château, Chambord, lies further north. It was built by the notoriously extravagant François I, who intended diverting the Loire – a full five kilometres away – to flow in front of his new country residence. Fortunately, he was persuaded that redirecting the tiny Cosson would suit his purposes. You can swim in royal fishing lakes, such as Étang

167 pont romainlat long: 47.1658, 0.9919walk in: 3 mins, moderate

Enchanting ivy-covered ruins of Roman bridge with small island and pools in secluded location.

, 5km N of Loches (D25), just beyond L’Isle Auger, bridge is signed on L. Park at end of lane and follow track 100m to river. More pools downstream of ruins and island.

a St-Jean-St-Germain is 5km S of Loches. Grassy picnic area by road bridge and beaches beneath weir. Deeper longer section upstream (47.0858, 1.0383). See also Swim 69.

b Veigne 10km S of Tours off D17. Popular riverside area with deep water for jumps, plus lido for kids (47.28917, 0.73444).

c Pont du Ruan large old mill pool complex where kids swim (47.2633, 0.5761). Restaurant R La Maison de Meunier. Also track to upstream riverside 1km to N (D17).

168 azay-le-rideaulat long: 47.2594, 0.4640walk in: 1 min, easy

Pleasant sandy beach by R café and car park, just downstream of fairytale, island château.

,9km W of A 85/J 9. Hire canoes £ to explore streams around château. Also swimming around island from riverside ! Le Sabot (E 02 47 45 42 72) on N bank.

a Marnay is 7km downstream (W on D120). Pretty, tucked-away pools on Indre sub-stream. At Marnay turn L (D7) and find track on R after 200m. Follow for 400m to find small sandy pools on L (47.2858, 0.3872).

b Pont de Grenon Quiet picnic area / beach with playground. Turn N off D7 1km W of Rivarennes, dir Rupuanne (47.2725, 0.3381).

c Château d’Ussé Swim possible from car park, but we camped on riverbank at Île St-Martin (1.2km N on D16) and swam in the Loire (47.2620, 0.2876).

d Bréhémont is 8km upstream. You can hire souped-up pedalos £ from

Les Aquacycles (E 08 99 23 60 16) to explore the Loire (47.2960, 0.3555).

e Villandry is 12km further upstream, just on the Cher. Follow road N past football pitch to stone cross then down to beach and island. On Loire cycle route (47.3444, 0.5094).

169 montrésor, indroislat long: 47.1544, 1.2025walk in: 20 mins, easy

Charming riverside walk with deep lily-fringed pool at Pont du Jardinier. Stunning village and Monet-like gardens. Outdoor theatre performances in summer.

, In Vallé de l’Indrois, 17km E of Loches (D760). Park near bridge and follow Balcons de l’Indrois, past Le Belier Hydraulique and L’Ilse, to Pont du Jardinier at upstream end of village.

a Étang du Pas-aux-Ânes Shallow forest lake with red sandy beaches. 8km W of Montrésor (D760) then L before D9 and on L after 800m (47.1329, 1.1138)

Indre & Indrois

167 168c The wild Loire at Île St-Martin

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170b downstream from candes-st-martinShifting sand bars and beaches

168c île st-martinThe Loire here is llike a great African river


de Montperché 165 in the surrounding Fôret de Boulogne, and there are several others in the wooded, watery landscape of the Sologne 165a.

To the northeast, the river Loir (no ‘e’) winds northwards through charming Lavardin 166c, with its ruined medieval castle, and past the troglodyte dwellings of Troo 166b. This small tributary of the Loire was once a navigation route and the whole of the stretch we explored is deep with no unpredictable currents – ideal for tranquil swims in sun-warmed water with views of bright poppy fields and orchards.

Heading south, make time to visit Azay-le-Rideau 168, a romantic, turreted château set on an island in the river Indres. The adventurous may want to swim across and explore the castle’s streams and moats from the campsite opposite, or you might prefer to take a canoe up its ancient water courses. There are many other attractive beaches tucked away nearby 168b or you can swim by the picture-book Château d’Ussé 168c. From here, it’s easy to join the Loire à Vélo cycle path at nearby Villandry 168e, which has magnificent gardens.

Upstream on the Indre, near Loches, there are pleasant family beaches and picnic areas around a large river pool with a

170 île du pontlat long: 47.1275, 0.3928walk in: 5 mins, moderate

Small island in river Vienne with steep sand banks and rope swing, 12km upstream of Chinon.

,Head W from L’Île-Bouchard on D8 via St-Gilles. After 3km, before Panzoult junction, find black sign Le Pont and track L to river. Wade over to island to find sand banks and swing on far side above deep section of river.

a Chezelet is 2.2km further downstream off D8, with track to picnic tables and shallow pebble beach (47.1367, 0.3664). Le Puy beach is 1.8km further downstream.

b Candes-St-Martin Popular pebble beach at confluence of Vienne and Loire (15km W of Chinon). Open site with splendid views across to town (47.2125, 0.0775). Park immediately after bridge (D7) and take track on L 5mins down to beach. You can also swim upstream, 4km further at Rassay (D751).

171 st-aubin-de-luignelat long: 47.3263, -0.6702walk in: 5 mins, easy

Deep swimming in pretty village on Layon, a small tributary of the Loire. Famous for its punts (barques).

, 10km SW of Angers and 5km W of A87/J24. Park in village centre and follow riverside path beyond campsite. For £ punt hire E 02 41 78 52 98.

a Rochefort-sur-Louet Pleasant village beach (D751) next to bridge by riverside ! St-Offrange (47.3593, -0.6556). Or turn R down road Le Port and find river access from field with plane trees, after swimming pool 200m. Popular stretch of river for canoeing.

b Montreuil-Bellay Deep river section above weir. Access from picnic area Isle aux Moines, by car park in front of chateau (47.1336, -0.1567).

172 parcé-sur-sarthelat long: 47.8378, -0.1956walk in: 1 min, easy

Quiet riverside area with pebble beach at edge of sleepy village on the Sarthe.

, 50km NW of Angers (A11/J10 then D57). At S end of village (Rue du Cap André Sauvage) take track L by recycling bins and dead end sign.

a Avoise is 3km N on D57. Riverside path and open stretch of river behind the ! campsite (47.8658, -0.2091).

b Asnières-sur-Vègre Attractive village on Sarthe tributary, 4km NW (D57). Paddling beneath old bridge by ancient church, plus deeper section above weir (47.8894, -0.2340).

c Juigné-sur-Sarthe Continue 6km on D22 and turn L into L’Écluse 300m after village. Pontoon with steps below weir/lock (47.8584, -0.2899).

d Solesmes 800m further along (D22) turn L before bridge into picnic area/parking, and follow path 200m (47.8546, -0.2988).

Vienne, Louet & Sarthe

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171a Upstream of bridge


weir 167a. If you prefer seclusion, seek out the ivy-clad ruins of the Pont Romain, set in an island glade between deep pools, like a scene from Midsummer Night’s Dream 167. Follow the Indrois, another tributary, and discover one of France’s most beautiful villages, Montrésor. Its gardens and lily ponds are straight out of a Monet painting 169. On summer weekends, the river and village are softly illuminated by solar lamps for the ‘Nuits Solaires’ entertainment.

In this region of rivers, another main tributary, the Vienne, has created a long sand- and pebble-beach at Candes-St-Martin 170b where it joins the Loire. On the Sarthe’s upper reaches, around the monastery of Solesmes 172d, you can experience the deep peace of rural France. There are several picturesque medieval villages, such as Asnières-sur-Vègre 172b, to explore or grassy river banks for day-dreaming after a dip.

In this part of the region, the patchwork of small fields, water meadows and woodlands is reminiscent of the Normandy countryside. From higher land to the northeast around Alençon, the Orne 173 and Touques 174 offer deeper water and tranquil pools as they meander through sleepy villages. Stop off and stock up with mouth-watering local cheeses and charcuterie for lazy lunches and picnics on the grassy banks.

173 putanges-pont-écrepinlat long: 48.7844, -0.2854walk in: 2 mins, easy

Beach and grassy banks on Lac de Rabodanges (upper Orne) with Palm Beach café bar R.

,20km W of Argentan (A88/J13) Swimming adjacent to Pont de Ste-Croix on D872.

a Pont-d’Ouilly is 15km downstream. Quiet grassy banks 1km downstream of village (D167) by gîte, le Moulin Neuf (48.8790, -0.4134).

b Clécy is 10km downstream via D1/D562. Popular weir and R café area at Moulin du Vey (48.9136, -0.4751). 1km upstream, beneath railway viaduct, is another fun weir by the £ canoe club.

c Thury-Harcourt on D562 has swimming above weir near kayak club (48.9870, -0.4832). Also above weir at Caumont-sur-Orne (D562).

d Chappelle Ste-Anne is 5km downstream from Thury on quiet riverside track 1km N from Grimbosq (D257, 49.0646, -0.4466).

e Le Val de Maizet Downstream 1km on opposite bank (via Trois-Monts, D212). Grassy banks above weir, just beyond old railway bridge (49.0667, -0.4407). Café R with pedalos for hire £ 2km downstream at Pont-du-Coudray (D41).

174 camembertlat long: 48.9018, 0.1604walk in: 2 mins, moderate

Pretty rural lake set in lush field. From Camembert (Vimoutiers D979) signed La Vallée d’Orval and Le Chouquet.

a Auquainville Pretty pool on Touques stream, N of Vimoutiers (D16/D64) beneath bridge on D64 (49.0566, 0.2523).

175 étang de mousuettelat long: 48.6216, 0.6747walk in: 10 mins, moderate

Very secluded lake in Perche Forest. Warm water and sandy banks.

,Find forest track R off D918, 2.5 km S of Randonnai. Continue 500m then L through woods 200m. Also try Étang de Fortibert on opposite side of road 500m (48.6274, 0.6902)

a Étang Neuf Small swimming lake, L off D930, 1km S of Abbaye de la Trappe (48.6260, 0.5941).

176 roches de hamlat long: 49.0230, -1.0548walk in: 5 mins, easy

Lush banks of Vire beneath high cliffs.

,A84/J39 N of Tessy-sur-Vire.Turn R off D551, 500m S of Condé-sur-Vire, and R again via le Moulin de Vire. Continue 1.5km to river bridge and follow river upstream.

Normandy

174a Aquainville

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173b Cascade du Vey

loire and normandy - wild swimming · 240 loire and normandy 241 it looked like the zambezi: the...

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