Namaste Nepal! Those who know me, or have followed my travels, know that Nepal is dear to me in so many ways. Thereis a heavenly vibe there, which tugs on my heartstrings and draws me back – as often as possible – to thisdestination that has called to me since I was a child. Now, fortunate enough to be promoting worldwide travel to some of the most gorgeous regions on earthand with top travel companies to boot, I can talk up Nepal to my heart’s content, and with good reason!It is simply one of the most breathtaking, culturally rich, friendly and intriguing countries on earth. I have long wanted to introduce this rich landscape to close relatives and friends, and in November I hadthe pleasure of leading a trip arranged by our dear friends at Ventours. The group included my parents,their friends and other people who had expressed an interest in experiencing Nepal with me. Wejourneyed for nearly two weeks from Kathmandu to Dhulikhel, giving us ample time to delve into thecountry’s spirituality, history, adventure, wildlife, wonderful flavors, arts and crafts and more. After the earthquake hit, many Nepalese worried that tourists would not come back to the region, butafter my trip this fall, I can tell you that the country is alive and thriving, and there are more reasonsthan ever to visit. While for many travelers, Nepal is synonymous with Everest and technical climbing adventures, there isso much more breadth to the region that is just waiting to be discovered.  Myriad landscapes andexperiences await the curious traveler, from the flat plains of the Terai to the jagged Himalayas. Thesedays, it’s convenient to get from place to place within Nepal by helicopter and plane, and drive timesare often less than an hour, making it easy to take in a variety of destinations, all in one trip. On this trip I realized more than ever that Nepal is the perfect destination for clients who are seekingadventure, but in a safer, more accessible way than other far‐flung spots. Luxury investment is pouringinto the country in the form of world‐class resorts, and believe it or not, business‐class airfare to Nepalis more reasonable than many other destinations!  Your clients will particularly enjoy visiting between late October/early November through mid‐December,or in March.  Monsoon season is June through August

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so mostly avoided by tourists, although if you are onlytraveling to the Kathmandu Valley, it has a wonderful fresh, clean feeling from the rainfall. For more details on any aspects of my recent trip or to arrange a bespoke trip for your clients, pleasedon't hesitate to contact me or anyone on my team.  We always love to hear from you.   Very best wishes, 

vip@r‐recommends.com  

 

This map shows our itinerary in Nepal.  Click here to see a larger version.  For me, each return to Nepal is a dream come true, and this time was no different.  After a long flight,we recouped at Dwarika's Hotel – really, it’s more like a luxurious home stay. There’s a relaxedambience and the craftsmanship, hearkening back to the 13th century, is remarkable. Every single brickis handmade, and each piece of wood is original and centuries‐old. 

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 Dwarika's Hotel is a heritage hotel and the most luxurious place to stay in Kathmandu. Later, we joined in a local Lakshmi Puja celebration honoring the goddess of wealth and prosperity inthe home of our Ventours manager for the trip, Pradeep Shah. Our wonderful guide was Sanjib – bothtraveled with us for the entirety of the trip and befriended all of the guests. When we were invited intotheir homes, it was truly as close friends, not just as clients.  

Celebrating Lakshmi, the Hindu goddess of wealth, fortune and prosperity, at the home of our Ventours manager,Pradeep Shah, and his wife, Janaki The next morning, rested and raring to go, we ventured to the World Heritage City of Bhadgaon, alsoknown as Bhaktapur, which dates back to the ninth century. Our day was spent browsing the localmarket, which was buzzing with shoppers for Tihar, the New Year and Festival of Lights, also known asDeepawali (or Diwali in India). Rich with UNESCO World Heritage Sites, the Kathmandu Valley boasts three Durbar Squares, or royalpalaces. We strolled through Bhaktapur Durbar Square, gazing upon temple after temple, including The

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Palace of 55 Windows and the pagoda‐style Nyatapola Temple.  In the afternoon there was a fineopportunity to visit artisans making pottery, scarves, carpets, traditional paintings, weavings, soaps andnatural cosmetics made with Nepalese ingredients. 

Bhaktapur is one of the three medieval cities in the Kathmandu Valley.  Photo by Ned Forrest That evening, we took the rare and wonderful chance to see the great Boudhanath Stupa, one of thelargest of its kind in the world.  The stupa is filled with sacred materials and prayers to bestow theblessings of the Buddha upon those who circumambulate in a clockwise direction, showing their faith anddevotion.   It was incredible to see how Boudhanath Stupa has been completely restored since being damaged duringthe earthquake.  The gold is glistening brighter than ever and gives me hope that the country will renewand resurrect itself. All the work was undertaken by volunteers and sustained by private donations, andthe stupa truly looks even better than it did before. 

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 The Boudhanath Stupa was restored in part by tourists who helped with the rebuilding effort. The Kathmandu Valley has a distinct spiritual feel to it, whether you’re visiting during a Hindu festival,as we did, or delving into Buddhist practices and philosophy. We were fortunate enough to be visitingduring Deepawali, and joined in the fifth and last day of the celebration, called Bhai Tika. On this daysisters pray for their brothers' long life and prosperity, then apply a dot of red powder (called a tika) totheir foreheads. We witnessed the tradition up‐close in the private home of our guide’s sister. It was a special way toexperience the genuine warmth and caring of the Nepalese people. Truly, there are very few countriesin which everyone you meet greets you with a smile and Namaste! 

A ceremony between brother and sister on Bhai Tika, the last day of the Tihar celebration. From here, we moved on to Patan, one of the three royal cities that existed in the Kathmandu Valley.This “City of Fine Arts” dates back to the third century, when it was commissioned by the great IndianEmperor Ashoka.  It is a showcase for Newari architecture in the form of temples, palaces, residencesand squares.   UNESCO is leading the charge to preserve Patan and safeguard Kathmandu’s other precious monuments.While here, we enjoyed a private audience with Kumari, the Living Goddess, who acknowledgesgreetings of devotees from her private balcony. 

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There are many ways to experience spirituality in Nepal, including our private audience with Kumari, the livinggoddess.

Our next stop was extra special for me, as it included a visit with my close friend Marie Ange Sylvain andher team at Image Ark, a creative studio and gallery. Over dessert and coffee, we learned about theNepalese artists and the locally made handiwork that Image Art showcases. Marie Ange’s otherphilanthropic project is Bottles to Beads, which trains and employs village women to produce beautifulglass beads made from discarded glass bottles that litter cities and mountain tracks in Nepal. One of the great gifts of travel, I believe, is to be able to give back to those destinations one visits andtruly make a difference. Here in Nepal, there’s much opportunity for socially responsible travel andphilanthropic gestures, including visiting schools in Marpha, Mustang and Camp Hope (which I supportwith my own project, Design for Life by Rebecca Recommends).  

Mum and Dad have lunch overlooking Bhaktapur Durbar Square. Photo by Lori Winslow. At the Kathmandu Durbar Square, you’ll see a variety of temples dedicated to different Hindu gods andgoddesses, all constructed mainly between the 15th and 18th century and a spectacular reflection of

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Newari artistry and architecture. Later, it was on to Kathmandu’s hippest street, Thamel, a pulsatinggathering spot for international trekkers, mountaineers and curio shoppers that has a similar vibe toBerkeley's Telegraph Avenue. With an evening at leisure, we sought out a locally inspired dinner. Might I add that the Nepalese food is among my favorite cuisines, with high quality produce in everycourse. Every meal, no matter how basic or complex, is delicious, fresh and organic. At Dhulikhel,there’s even a cooking class kitchen, where you can visit their on‐site organic garden and help choosethe produce for the dish you’ll create. We had the chance to cook up traditional momos with a tomatoand peanut sauce – divine! 

The Nepali Thali is a selection of fresh vegetables, succulent meats, bread, lentils and side dishes of deliciouspickles, served with rice. Next, we were on to Pashupatinath Temple, a UNESCO World Heritage Site dedicated to the god Shiva.The temple sits alongside the sacred Bagmati River, which eventually flows into the River Ganges. Aftera visit to this holiest of Hindu temples, we were off by air (just a half‐hour flight) to Chitwan NationalPark for what I think is one Nepal’s best‐kept secrets – its wildlife. Did you know that the one‐horned rhino, once nearly extinct, is now starting to thrive in southern Nepal?Most folks don’t, so it was with excitement that we approached our visit to Chitwan, where not onlywould we glimpse the rare rhinos, but hopefully see Royal Bengal tigers, four‐horned antelope, leopards,sloth bears and wild boars.   

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Traveling by elephant, we were able to get very close to the rare one‐horned rhino in Chitwan National Park.Photo by Lori Winslow. To say the park is vast is an understatement. Set in a valley in the Inner Terai lowlands and within 580square miles, Chitwan harbors 68 species of mammals, 54 species of amphibians and reptiles and 669species of birds. During our first evening, we savored a lovely Nepali BBQ dinner by the pool at KasaraResort, one of two exciting new luxury properties in Chitwan.  (The other is Meghauli Serai, A Taj SafariLodge.)   The next morning, we visited the park at dawn and stopped by the Elephant Keep to hear the mahoutsspeak about their lifestyle and to meet their gentle giants.  We also helped bathe them in the river, areal treat. Later, we strolled through the neighboring Tharu Village, a quiet forest community whosepeople have a biological resistance to malaria.   

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A magical view of the Himalayas from the Terai Lowlands.   The villagers cultivate rice, mustard, corn and other vegetables, but they also fish and hunt for deer,rabbit and wild boar.  Their homes are crafted from mud and cow dung, and art is evident everywhere,from relief sculpture to geometrically patterned windows. It made my heart sing to see colorful clothing embroidered with scraps procured from traveling fabricmerchants. This is truly making incredible beauty out of very little material value. Clay pots, cookstoves, wooden baskets, fishing nets that look like butterfly wings – it’s all made by the villagers righthere in Tharu. 

Canoe ride along the Rapti River in Chitwan National Park.   

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Always on the lookout for birds, rhinos, gharials and other wildlife, we ended our glorious Chitwan daywith a peaceful canoe trip along the Rapti River. The light was mesmerizing, and the sky so clear wecould see all the way to the mountains beyond. The orchestration of perfect experiences is a Ventourshallmark, and true to style, surprise sundowners and local delicacies were waiting when wedisembarked.  With the memory of graceful antelopes and majestic elephants dancing in our mind’s eye, we moved thenext day to the Pokhara Valley, taking a quick half‐hour trip on our own charter flight. The PokharaValley was once a large lake and has grown into a launchpad for trekking and rafting expeditions in theregion. 

My parents and I enjoyed an easy two‐hour hike through the Annapurna foothills. We started at the International Mountain Museum – after all, Nepal is certainly known as one of theworld’s premier climbing destinations – where we marveled at some of the mountaineering community’smomentous feats and learned about the geography of the Himalayan peaks. Later, we joined thetrekkers in town as we explored Lakeside Road, an inviting strip of lodges, bookstores, eateries andsouvenir shops. Boasting incredible views of the famous Machhapuchhure Mountain, The Mala Lodge was our home fortwo nights.  During our second day, we set off on our two‐hour hike in the Annapurna foothills near thelodge to the unspoiled village of Patlekhet. It’s a mainly downhill trek, through a local farm and forest,and at the culmination we arrived at a Nepali settlement typical of the Gurungs, an ethnic group alsoknown as Gurkhas. They gave us a warm greeting, invited us into their homes and school, taught usabout their farming practices and served us a delicious traditional lunch. One of my favorite moments in Pokhara was the chance to gather in a local hut and experience Rakshi(a traditional distilled beverage made at home from rice or millet), Sel Roti (a homemade bread madefrom rice flour) and Sandenki Aloo, or potato pickle.  Oh, to be able to recreate these flavors now that Iam back home! 

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The women of Patlekhet gave our group a very warm welcome. Now I’ll admit there is something both heart‐pounding and humbling about being able to start your daywith a helicopter flight in one of the most scenic areas on earth, and yet, there we were. Off to Mustangwe went (with a refueling stop in Jomsom en route to Lo‐Manthang), on a flight I could barely imagine,let alone describe. We traced the great Kali Gandaki River and flew over the deepest gorge in the world,with 360‐degree mountain views surrounding us. Although we were technically still in Nepal while in Mustang, we may as well have been in Tibet in termsof geography, climate and ethnicity. We surged on, stopping in the capital of Mustang – the medievalwalled city of Lo‐Manthang – flying deep into the northwest section of the Annapurna range, the TibetanPlateau and the Upper Mustang, home to the headwaters of the mighty Kali Gandaki River. 

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Lo‐Manthang, the capital of Mustang, is a medieval walled city. Lo‐Manthang is home to the Thakali people, a population distinct from the Tibetans of Upper Mustang.It’s here that the Tiji festival takes place each May, bringing to life the story of a deity who must battlehis demon father to save the Kingdom of Mustang from destruction. We were able to view many of thethangkas and masks used during the festivities, as well as the royal palace and a monastery. The altitudehere is steep and terrain is rough, but your clients can travel as we did, in the sure hands of Ventours’Himalayan experts. Explorer Michael Purcell has described the Mustang landscape as a “yellow and ochre desert, asuccession of barren, wind‐eroded crags overlooking deep gorges and canyons which cut across aninferno of parched soil, like deep scars in a vast sand pile.” We flew past the Caves of Mustang, which Ibelieve to be among the Himalayas’ best‐kept secrets.  Geologists and archaeologists are currentlystudying the fragile cliffs honeycombed with hundreds of man‐made caves, some as large as 155‐feethigh and many which are thousands of years old.  It is simply mind‐boggling.  

P ony‐trekking in breathtaking Mustang (pronounced MOO‐stang.) We journeyed on to Thasang Lodge, our home for the next two nights.  Barely able to sit still, anxious asI was to get out and explore, I opted for a local trek in the alpine forest with the owner of ThasangLodge and snapped photos of Mt. Dhaulagiri, Mt. Nilgiri and Tilicho peak. The next day, we enjoy a 12‐mile pony trek to Marpha, a Thakali village in the lower Mustang – adelightful enclave of clustered stone houses and a traditional monastery. The village showed off typicalThak Khola architecture, known for its trademark flat roofs, narrow alleys and passageways. The flatroofs are practical, given the low rainfall, and serve as drying places for grain and vegetables.  

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We visted schoolchildren in Marpha, a wonderful way to connect with the community. I couldn't drink in enough of the peaks around us – Machupuchare (also known as Fish Tail Mountain), theAnnapurnas, Himalchuli, Ganesh, Langtang, Dorjee Lhakpa and the impressive Gaurishankar. It was athrilling landing at the steep airstrip in Lukla. From there, we hopped a helicopter shuttle to the legendary Namche Bazaar, one of the major stops onthe trail up to Everest Base Camp. From the village center, one can look directly out at the sheer face ofKongde Ri – and it’s here we get our first dramatic (and heart‐stopping!) views of Mt. Everest.  We wereeven able to receive traditional blessings in a monastery for my father’s birthday ‐‐ an incredibly movingand memorable experience for both of us 

My father received a blessing on his birthday at a small Tibetan Buddhist monastery in Namche Bazaar.

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 It was a milestone moment when I was able to join my father for breakfast at the top of the world. Ourhelicopter whisked us to Kongde Ri, regarded as a holy mountain (although it is open to climbing). Welanded at Yeti Mountain Home Kongde, reportedly the highest lodge in the world at 13,944 feet.  It isundergoing a wonderful refurbishment and is due to reopen in spring 2017. I can’t wait to come back tostay here on my next visit. With a backdrop of Everest, Lhotse, Makalu, Cho‐Oyo, Gyajung Khang and Ama Dablam and thepicturesque Khumbu Valley and Kongde Lake far below, we were greeted with a Champagne breakfastand birthday cake, or course. It was a truly heavenly 90 minutes.  Due to the altitude, we couldn't staymuch longer, and before we knew it, it was behind us like a dream and we were off to Lukla and then onto Kathmandu. 

My father celebrates his birthday on top of the world. Affording us time to reflect on our incredible experiences, our last two nights were at the Dwarika'sResort Dhulikhel, the best hotel in the country and a Virtuoso preferred supplier.  The immense beautyof Dwarika's Dhulikhel has been chronicled many times over, and truly, it’s a dramatic destination withits Himalayan sunrises, awesome alpine views and terraced valleys.  This was also an important tradingjunction on the route from Nepal to Tibet in days gone by. 

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Dwarika's Resort Dhulikhel is the finest hotel in Nepal. Dwarika's Resort Dhulikhel was the perfect spot to relax and rebalance after our flight.  Of particularnote were the meals at Mako’s Zen, where the menu is based on a diet originally followed by monks intraining. The five tastes (hot, sour, sweet, bitter and salty) are combined with five colors (red, white,black, green and yellow) and five cooking methods (fresh, boiling, roasting, steaming and frying),resulting in a nearly infinite array of nutritious and original flavorings.  Later, as I melted into a blissful bath in my executive suite’s open bathroom, with the sunset glowingbeyond my roof terrace, I couldn’t help but feel I’d arrived back in heaven. 

Enjoying the view from Dwarika's Resort Dhulikhel.  

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The near‐perfect altitude allows for a proliferation of vibrant rhododendron, chrysanthemums andorchids, along with a rich diversity of birds.  We sank into a leisurely afternoon at Dwarika's PanchaKosha Himalayan Spa, indulging in treatments influenced by Vedic philosophy, Buddhist medicine andtraditional local wisdom, and spending time in the Himalayan Salt Room.  Yoga, meditation, Ayurveda, Nepali cooking, birdwatching and hiking took up our two‐day stay herebefore we gathered for farewell drinks and a dinner party to say our goodbyes, both to our wonderfultravel companions and this remarkable land.   I can honestly say, "I'll be back." 

        rebecca‐recommends.com

 

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