l'etoile magazine - agoraphobia issue
DESCRIPTION
Fashion Magazine from MinneapolisTRANSCRIPT
Editorial
Editor in ChiefBeth Hammarlund
Managing EditorAmy Roark
Creative DirectorMolly Roark
Marketing DirectorKate Iverson
DesignIzaak B
Nathan Hinz
Senior Beauty EdiorsJen Hughes
Truc Nguyen
Contributing Beauty AssistantOlivia Brown
Associate Style EditorMichelle Butterfield
Production AssistantValerie Townsend
Staff PhotographersKrista Oakes
Colin Simmons
ContributorsAmy PierceChris Hajny
Aaron Wojack
Special thanks to Amelia Biewald, Lili Jackson, Brandy LaChapelle, Anna Lee, Charles Miller, Gina Reid, Holly Schroder, Caleb Hinz, Michelle Skally Doilney, Erin Smith, Steve Wolf, Aaron Wojack, Pam Arcand, Clement Shimizu, Nick Golfis, White Chocolate, James Lindbloom, KHS, Jon Bradley, Esther Park, Grain Belt, Shakers, Ben and Emma, Bill and Meg and the dungeon masters, Sally Spencer, Colleen Jean
Johnson, Dan and Jeff
For Advertising [email protected]
L’étoile Magazineletoilemagazine.com
All content © 2006 l’étoile Magazine except were noted. No part of l’étoile Magazine may be reproduced in any form without prior written consent.
Spring Fever 2006, Volume 2, Issue 1
14TH & CENTRALOffiCE CONdOs
fOR sALE
A new urban workplace,
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energized by people.
Purchase your piece
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L'Etoile Add.indd 1 4/17/06 10:18:43 AM
ContentsSpring Fever 2006, Volume 2, Issue 1
Letter from the Editor 06Contributors 07Everyone Knows its Windy 08Only Human 14Whirl–Wind 18 Cliché 24Candy Eye Factory 26The TV Sound 28Labrador 30Agoraphobia 42Where to Buy 58Opinion 60l’étoile Nightlife 64
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L’étoile SpringFever2006 Contents
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L’étoile SpringFever2006 Volume2Issue1
Letter from the Editor
Thegroundhasthawed,thetreeshaveblossomed,andthewinterdoldrumshavemeltedaway.Finally,springhasreturnedtol’étoilédunord.Andjustaswinterisatimeforrest,springisatimeforgrowth.Itiswiththisphilosophyinmindthatwebringyouanewl’étoilé,featuringexpandedcoverageoflocalart,design,culture,andevents.
Althoughit’sbeenaseasonortwosinceyoulastheardfromus,we’vehardlybeenhibernating.Wespentourwintermonthscreatinganissuewithfashionandbeautyeditorialsthatrivalthoseofnationalpublications,aswellascoverageoflocalartexhibits,music,andnightlife.Withthesenewadditions,andfurtherexpansiontocome,welookforwardtobecomingyourfavoriteTwinCitiessourceforallthingsbeautifulandinteresting.SpringFevermarksanewdirectionforus;wehopeitinspiresyoutotakesomechances,aswell.
Inadditiontothepublicationofthisissue,l’étoiléandAPrettyMindStudiohaveworkedtogethertohostmultipleeventsthroughoutthewinterandearlyspring.ThisnewtraditioncontinuesonMay19thwhen l’étoiléhosts theopening festivities forNEMAA’sArt-A-Whirl.Can’tmake it?Well,keepyourearspeeled,kids,becauseourjam-packedsummerissuemightjustmeritapartyofitsown.
Wehopethatourmagazine,events,andupcomingwebsiteencourageyoutoexperiencetheTwinCitiescreativecommunityandallthatithastooffer.Getinvolved.Getinspired.Andmakesomenewfriends.
BethHammarlundEditorinChief
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L’étoile SpringFever2006 Contributors
Contributors
AmyPierce–Photographer,Agoraphobia.NYC
AmyPiercewasborninYonkers,NewYorkwhereshemademovieswithhersisters,thefamilyvideocameraandlotsoffakeblood.LatershemovedtoConnecticutwhereshegotmadefunofforherweirdaccentandlearnedtotakepictures.AmynowresidesBrooklyn,butherfavoriteat-homeactitiviesstillinvolvelotsoffakeblood.
ChrisHajny–Illustrator,Labrador.Minneapolis
Chris rocks black denim and blazing white kicks. As a freelanceillustratoroutofMinneapolis,and1/3of the illustration/design trioDrawlGraphic,Chrisspendsallofhis timemakingart.And that’sthewayhelikesit.
Check the work at www.drawlgraphic.com or has his personalwebsite,www.hajny.com
AaronWojack–Photographer,EveryoneKnowsitsWindy.Minneapolis
Aaron is a Minneapolis native who doesn’t much care for writingabouthimself.Hedoeshoweverenjoytakingpicturesandalsobikesandtigers.
L’étoile SpringFever2006 Volume2Issue1
Everyone Knows its Windy
Our forecast for Spring calls for scattered thunder clouds ofcascadingcurl.Gettheselightningfastresultsbycreatingtwistersinthehair,lockbylovelylock,thendry.ThelookismadeeasybreezywithasprinkleofHairPotioninthecrownforvolumeandastrongmistofAirControlthroughout.Deepradiantredsrecalltherainbow’swarmest hues and beckon the Summer sun. When the advisorywarrants more treacherous conditions, fasten the coils aroundribbonsandpinthehairawayfromthefaceforafinish“that’slighterthanair.”Thiswillcreatemoreeleganceandpreventloosecurlsfromblowingintheface.
Afterall,everyoneknowsit’sWindy!-Jen
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L’étoile SpringFever2006 Style:Beauty
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Thistimeofyeartheweatheristemperamentalatbest,sobepreparedforeithersunorstormswitharangeofcolorsthatspanthemeteorological possibilities. Our girl may have “stormy eyes,” buttheusualsmokeandcloudshavebeenreplacedbyrichjeweltonesthat still define but now add complementary color to your irises.Speakingofflowers,juxtaposeyourdarkgazewithanunexpectedlipshadeworthyofthebestspringroses.Whilewaitingforthestormtopass,comfortyourselfwiththefactthatcolorsareregisteredasbeingbrighteronovercastdays.-Truc
PhotographybyAaronWojackArtDirectionbyMollyRoarkHairbyJenHughesHairColorbyLindseyYozampMakeupbyTrucNguyenModel-MonicaShotontheRooftopofDensityStudio
L’étoile SpringFever2006 Volume2Issue1
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L’étoile SpringFever2006 Style:Beauty
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InMonica’shair:BeCurlyCurlEnhancingLotion,AirControlHairspray,andPureAbundanceVolumizingHairPotion.AllbyAveda.
L’étoile SpringFever2006 Volume2Issue1
Monicawears:ArtjamPaint,PinkedMauvePigment,SweetWilliamBlushcremeandProLongWearLipcolorinLover’sLust.AllbyMACCosmetics.
AllclothingMonica’sownLaminatedeyeglassnecklacebyTwoBitBling
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L’étoile SpringFever2006 Style:Beauty
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ByBrandyLaChapelle
Iwaseatingstringcheese.Yes,stringcheese.Shut-up,youeatittoo.Inoticedtheawkward,non-biodegradablewrapperandwondered,whydoIopenpackagesoffood,fullofunrecognizableingredients,processedinwaysIcan’timagine,actuallyeatitandthenwonderwherethatlittlegnawofguiltcomesfrom?
DavidHamlowbroughtthisconflicttothesurfaceathisrecentshowingattheMinnesotaMuseumof American Art (MMAA). His Dodecahedron is a deliberate confrontation of the colorfullypackagedandultimatelymedicateddailylifeofacultureundertheinfluenceofcorporatedesignandtrendymedicine.Thiswork,inthecontextofportraiture,lefttheaudiencewiththeunsettledfeelingwe’redenyingoursubstance,blindlysubsistingonthemostappealingandconvenientofcrap.
Why?Weareonlyhuman.AttheMMAA’srecentexhibition,OnlyHuman:ExploringContemporaryPortraits,manyartistscontemplatedthehighsandlowsofoursharedhumanitywithanhonestappreciationforourtortured,deliciousconflicts.
Tosayweare“onlyhuman”implieswecanimaginesomethingbetter,besomethingbetter,thanwhoweare.Weareallacutelyflawed,weigheddownasmuchbyourfantasiesasourtyrannicalself-inflicted standards. The art in the exhibits ran the gamut from prejudice to obsession,lazinesstofanaticismandreallygavevoicetoanarrayofuniversalfears.Idecidedtoreviewthisshowfromtheperspectiveofafellowartistratherthanacritic,becauseIsharetheirfascinationwithourconstantneedtotrytochangeourselvesandeachother.Ibelievetheexhibitwasanadmissionthatwesecretlyloveourflawsandfrankly,withoutthemwewouldn’thavemuchtomakeartabout.
TheresaDowning,curatorof theshow,explains,“Our identitiesareconstructedofmorethanoursimplefaces.”Thetraditionalportraitremainselusiveaswewanderthroughafunhouseofcharacterdimensionsthatsomehowbothreflectanddefineus.Fromtheperspectivesofsuchaprofoundlydiversegroupofartists,Icouldn’thelpfeelinganembarrassedhopeforthebuddingcultureofmyadolescentcountry.
TheArtists
AnthonyMarchetti servedup juicymorsels tosatisfyour innervoyeurand reacquaintuswithourinnervandal.Hisportraitsareoflivesleftbehindandtheycapturedthatpoignantmomentaswetakeonelastlookattheplacewecalledhome.Itiswhatourbackseesasweturnaway,andmovesonfromourmessyweaknesses.Onlyanartistwithanextreme“empathy”forobjectsthathavebeenusedup,abandonedandforgottencouldfindthegrotesquebeautyinourmostshamefulmoments.
L’étoile SpringFever2006 Volume2Issue1
Only Human
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Visionsofmy fourthgrade trapper keeper and its shield-likepower flashed tomindas Imetthe penetrating gaze of Jay Wittenburg’s Sylvia Plath, clutching a book to her anatomicallyquestionable breasts. The paintings are awkward and a bit little creepy, and his obsession,itwouldbeagloriousoneifonlywe’dseenthewholecollection.Butintheend,IbelieveJayWittenburg‘sfantasiesaboutfemalewritersareasromanticasmyown.
BenOlson’sexpressivelyrenderedpaintingsofhimselfandhisbelovedfiancée,Emmaweresoraw,atributetotheoverwhelminghappinessofdesiresmet.Eachfluidbrushstrokewasloadedwithcolorandbroughtoutthesecretdesiretobeladeninthetexturesofanother.Olsonknowswhattodowithpaint,andInowknowhowI’dwanttobepainted.
SusanKosmalski succeeded indisturbingmypersonal archiveof sharpandflawless imagesof movie star beauties in black and white. She captured our desperate struggle against theinevitablewithherportrait ofMarleneDietrich, tapedunder herwig, amereghostof herselfbeforeherdeath.Noonecanfightthepassingoftime,nomatterhowmuchmoneywespend.
XavierTavera’sthreelargerthanlifeExtremeFighterportraitsexposedourbasestnature.Hair,sweatandspittleglistenedonthesurfaceofthreepredatorymen.Theygazedatmewiththeselfassuredpowerofalion,tiger,andbear.Instrikingcontrast,Xavier’sportraitsofKoffi,ElAbuelo,andDr.Choudepictedthedisenfranchisedofourworld,thosepeopleonthemarginsofsocietywhomwerelyontomakeourworldrich.Theygazewithmorepower,strengthandconfidencethananyofotherthefeaturedsubjects.
EarnestBryantIIIflattarplikecanvasesrepresentedourblackculturaliconswithagarishlyair-brushednobilityandanexplosionofcolor,humorandirony.Theyremindthecontroversiesthathavebothseparatedandbroughtuscloser.“NineMonologues,”playedwithgenderperspectives.InPeterB.BeckerNelsoninterviewswithninewomen,representingawiderangeofageandcircumstance,hedeftlyrevealedastunningandsimpleexpressionofthegenderconflict.Boy’sv.s.girls,whatdowereallyknowaboutit?AsNelson’sexpressive,boyishmouthrecountedthethoughtsofasavvyyounggirlonthesubjectof“whataboyshouldbelike”,Isimplycouldnotlookaway.Itisnotthefirsttimetheideasofawomanarepresentedbyaman,sowhyisthisspecial?Nelsonisnottryingtopullthewooloveroureyes,weknowwhoseidestheseare.
KatinkaGalanosleftmehanging.Herlayerednegativescertainlyaddeddimensiontoherimagesof individuals, yet theoverall voice remainedawhisper.Herpieceswere themost traditionalportraits in theshow,despiteall the technicalmanipulation.However, I canstill appreciateabeautiful,mysteriouspicture.
L’étoile SpringFever2006 OnlyHuman
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L’étoile SpringFever2006 Volume2Issue1
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L’étoile SpringFever2006 OnlyHuman
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L’étoile SpringFever2006 Volume2Issue1
ByHollySchroeder
What inspires you? Visual arts like painting, sculpture, photography, drawing, printmaking?Perhapsit’spottery,weaving,woodworkingandjewelrymaking?Whataboutfurniture,ceramics,fabric,multimediaorperformancebasedart likemusic,danceandacrobatics?Whateverit is,you’llfindallofthisandmoreattheannualNEMinneapolis“Art-A-Whirl”festival.
ForthepasttenyearsinMinneapolis,thethirdweekendofMayhasbeenallaboutart.Over20,000visitorswillattendthisopenstudioartcrawlinNortheastMinneapolis,whereover400galleries,studios,convertedwarehouses,privatehomes,industrialbuildingsandrehearsalcentersopentheirdoorstothepublic.Thisyear,abikemapshowingroutestothegalleriesandstudioswillmakeiteasiertopedalandparticipateinthisspring’sflingwithart.MapswillbeatlocationsalloverthecityaswellasatArt-A-Whirlinformationboothsthroughouttheneighborhood.TheBikeMapisalsoavailableonlineatwww.alteredesthetics.com/bikemap.
Whirl–Wind
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L’étoile SpringFever2006 Whirl–Wind
JamieSchumacher,artist,curatorandownerofAlteredEstheticsGallery, is involved inmanyorganizations, like the Arts Action Plan, that benefit the Northeast art community. She’s aNEMAAvolunteerandartsadvocate.Shealsowastheprimaryforcebehindthisyear’sfirstArt-A-WhirlBikeMapsponsoredbyPeaceCoffee.AlteredEstheticswillopentheirnextgroupshow“BikeArt”overArt-A-Whirlweekend.
HowisNEMAAhelpingmakesuccessfulartistsoutof‘starving’ones?
Is that really NEMAA’s responsibility or mission? I think NEMAA works hard as a facilitatorforpromotionsandsomeconnectionsbut ifyourart isthoughtlessandnotevenaestheticallypalatable,allthepromotions,connectionsandmarketingintheworldaren’tgoingtohelpyousellyourworkinadistrictwhereevensomeoftheremarkableworkisn’tselling.NEMAAhelpslinkartistsupwithgrantwritingworkshops,credit cardprocessing forbusinessesandotherlikemindedartists.Theseand theeventsareallpositive thingsandmostartistsaregrateful.Butifyourartisn’tfeedingyouyet,bitethebulletgetadayjob.Ifyouexpectsomenon-profitcomposedofotherartiststobeabletodothatforyouforameasly50bucksayear,you’resadlymistaken.Toanswerthequestioninalessharshway,NEMAAishelpingartistsoutbyprovidingthemwithsomeusefullinksandresources,butintheendIthinkitisuptotheartiststofeedandcareforthemselvesandtakeownershipoftheirartandArtDistrict.
Jamie,whatisArtonQuincy?
ArtonQuincy,byrawdefinition,isanorganizationofartistsandstudiosonQuincyStreetworkingtogethertobettertheirpartoftheArtDistrictandconsolidatelimitedresourcesforpromotingthebusinessandartiststheyrepresent.ForAlteredEsthetics(andQuincyStreetasawhole,Iwouldsay),ithasbeenagreatwaytohelpwithdrawingpeopleintoanoftenoverlookedportionofthedistrict.Ithasalsobeenagreatopportunitytomeetandworkwithourneighbors.KateIversonfromDensityStudiosfirstcontactedustobeginthesegrouppromotionsbeforelastyearsArt-A-Whirl.Ithinktheconsolidatedefforthasreallyhelpedallofus.
Howisthisyear’sArt-A-Whirldifferent?
ThisyearsArt-A-Whirlwillfeaturesculpture,performanceart,painting,photography,comicart,music,andfilm.The“BikeArt”groupshowbringstogetherthecyclingandartisticcommunitiesin an engaging and unique juxtaposition. From the feedback I’ve been getting from the bikecommunity, it looks likewemaybe reachinganaudience that isn’tnormally thegallery-goingtypeofcrowd.Beingabletodrawsomebodyintotheartcommunitythatisn’totherwisesuper-interestedandhavingthemwalkawaywithapositiveinterpretationisexcitingtome!
JamieSchumacherAlteredEsthetics1300QuincyStNE626-318-7019info@alteredesthetics.comalteredesthetics.comartonquincy.com
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L’étoile SpringFever2006 Volume2Issue1
Well-knownasthatquirkyartgalleryinNordeastMinneapolis,FUNKtionallArtparticipatesintheannualArt-A-WhirlopenstudioeventeachMayandtheFallFineArtsShoweachNovember.OwnersLaurieSvedbergandFaithFarrell love tomeet folkswhoshare their impish attitudetowardartandlifesotheyshowindividuallyatlocalvenuesandtheirworkisalwaysonviewatColumbiaGroundsCoffeeShopon33rdandCentralAvenueNEinMinneapolis.
Laurie,canyougiveusabriefbioofyourself?I’maretiredhighschoolartandphilosophyteacherwitharesidentialstudio/gallerythat’sbeenonHGTVandhometours.Ihaveawhiteshepherdnamed“Wonder”whoinspiresmeandI’velivedinNEfor26yearswhereIstillmarvelatthemixofarts,cultureandgrittiness.BesidesFunktionallArt,IshowregularlyatAlteredEstheticsandColumbiaGrounds.IalsodesignedthebannersonCentralAvenueasatributetothisgreatarea(buttheyneedsomefresheningup!)HowdidyouandFaithcometogethertocreateFUNKtionallArt?
Yearsago,beforethe“craftcraze”hit,Istartedfunkifyingmyhouseholdfurnishings.Apolelampbecameatree,stereospeakersmorphedintorocks,andclocksturnedcuckoo.AboutthattimeImetfellowfunkstress,FaithFarrellwholiveddownthealley.Wedecidedtolaunchagalleryoffunkyfurnishingsthateveryonecouldenjoy.FUNKtionallARTwasborn.Ourmissionwas,andstillis,tofashion“fun-of-a-kind”artpiecesfromusefulobjects.FaithandIcreate“serious”artasseparateentities,butFUNKtionallARTremainsagreatoutletforoursharedsenseofhumor,ironyandpopculture.WhatareyourplansforArt-A-Whirl?
FunktionallArtissponsoring“BattleoftheBrushes”atColumbiaGroundsonSaturdayMay20from2-4pm.Itwillbeaspeed-paintingextravaganza,withNEMAAartistsandlocalcelebritiescreating5-minutepaintingsoftopicstossedoutbyspectators.Think“Pictionary”meets“BeattheClock.”We’vegotM.A.RoskoofFOX9MorningNews,PaulOstrowoftheMinneapolisCityCouncil,L.K.HansonaStarTribuneillustrator,BenHeywood,theSoapFactorydirectorandJulieSwenson,“SkywayGirl”lineduptobecelebritypainters.RichKronfeld(a.k.a.“Dr.Sphincter”)ofTV’s“Let’sBowl!”famewillbetheemcee.ThepaintingswillbeauctionedwithaportionofproceedstobenefitClareHousing,anorganizationthatsupportsfolkswithHIV/AIDS.And,ofcourse,FUNKtionallARTGallery(34thandTylerNE)willbeamust-seestopduringArt-a-Whirl.JudithWestergard,FaithFarrellandIwillhavelotsoffunkyartworksforshowandsaleatreal-peopleprices.It’sdelightfultowitnessthegiggles,gaspsandguffawsofvisitorsandWonderhopeseveryonewillstopbytopethimandgawkathiswackyhouse!Sostopbyandexperienceagalleryunlikeanyyou’veseen!
LaurieSvedbergandFaithFarrellFUNKtionallART3359TylerStreetNE612-789-8616lsved@ties2.netwww.funktionallart.com
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L’étoile SpringFever2006 Whirl–Wind
MikeandIreneMenascoareownersofthefineartgalleryandframingstoreArtisticIndulgence.BothareselftrainedartistswhocreateANDsellart,representingabouteighttotennationalandlocalartistsatatimeintheirgallery.MikehasbeenaCertifiedProfessionalPictureFramerforsixyears,soinadditiontothe50orsooriginalpiecesdisplayedforpurchaseinthegallery,theydoconservationcustomframing.Theyalsoofferarangeofartistmaterials.Mike,yourownartseemstobeallovertheboardinregardstostyleandcontent.Isthissomethingyouspecificallysetouttoachieve,ordoyousimplypaintwhatyoufeel?
Ipaintsolelyformyself.Iamnotanartistwhojustproducestosell.IpaintwhatIfeel,whetheritsellsornot.Iworkinmanydifferentstylesandmediumsincludingacrylics,oils,coloredpencils,riverclayandpastels,etc...I’lltryanything.Forme,that’sthegreatthingaboutart.Youaretheonlyonethatlimitsyourself.Howdoyoufeelaboutshowingyourmorecontroversialworkinyourowngallery?Galleries likeAlteredEstheticsarewonderful formebecause it allowsme toshowmymorecontroversialworkwithoutthejudgmentsofclosedmindedpeople.Unfortunatelyasweknowinbusinessitisnotalwayswisetowearyourpoliticalorpersonalbeliefsonyoursleeve.Wepreferourbusinesstostandaloneasaplacewhereanybodycancomeandenjoywhatwehavetoofferbasedonqualityandprofessionalism,notwhatourpersonalbeliefsare.IfeelIgetthebestofbothworlds.Igettodomoreofarangeofsubjectswithoutbeingcategorizedintoonestyle.Doyoufindmaintainingthebusinessendofyourgallerytobechallengingwhenyou’remoreofacreativetype?Not at all.Yes, youhave tobeboth,businessandcreative. Irene iscompletely thebusinessside.Iamlearningalittleafteralltheseyears.Butshedoesanincrediblejobandsheisboth,business–mindedandcreative.Therearen’tmanypeoplelikeherandthat’swhyitworksforus.DoyouthinkArt-A-Whirlhasincreasedsalesorawarenessorboth?I feel it has increasedbothandgetsbetterevery year.Weget the trickledown from theArtDistrict.It’salljustgettingthepublictorealizewearehereandtoremember.Thiswillbethe2ndyearthatwehaveourNortheastArtBuyingIncentive.Tosupportthelocalartsandartists,ArtisticIndulgencewillgive25%offofframingorreframingofanyart,thatisboughtfromanyartistinNEparticipatinginArt-A-Whirl.
MikeandIreneMenascoArtisticIndulgence302EastHennepin612.746.4508Wereiartm@aol.com
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ROGUE buddha GALLERYa contemporary place to view art
Thedayswhenyouhavenothingtowear,whenyoufeelasifyou’vebeensuckedintoafashionblackhole,aretheidealdaystoventuretoClichéon24thandLyndaleinMinneapolis.Ananswertoyourstylingwoescansurelybefoundinsidethenarrowboutique,nestledsnuglybetweenacoffeeshopandamusicstore.
Clichéoffersit’scustomeralargeselectionofclothingandaccessoriesencompassingawealthofdifferentstyles.Itsfilledwithenoughvarietytodelightnewwaversandbohos,alike.
TheduobehindCliché,husbandandwifeJoshandDelayneSundberg,shareagreat loveoffashion. Both grew up in the Twin Cities and are excited to support the burgeoning fashioncommunity.TheirboutiquecarriesfashionfromlocaldesignerssuchasDeGenyRecycling,KerryRileyandLessThanPerfect.
However,theymakeitquiteclearthattheywillnotcarryalinejustbecauseitislocal.“Wewanttocarrycoolstuffthathappenstobelocal,”Joshsays.
TheyinitiallywantedClichétobeavintagestore,butwhencityzoninglawsandpermitsstoodinthewayoftheiroriginalvision,theydecidedthattheywouldopenaboutiquethatofferednew,mass-producedclothingandaccessories,inadditiontolocalpieces.“Wewantedthestoretobeanalternativetothelabelstores,”Joshsays.
Delayne,Cliché’sbuyer,scoutedtheglobefornewclothingcompanies.Sheshoppedspecificallyfor pieces that looked like nothing else she had ever seen. The result of her scouting is aneclectic,affordablemixofAsianbrands,Americanbrands(includingsweatshop-freeAmericanApparel),andlocaldesignersontherise,suchasCorrineLohman.Joshsaysoftheaffordabilityoftheitems,“DelayneandIfeltitwasimportantthatitbereasonablypriced.Wealwayswantedittobewithinacollegekid’sbudget.”Therearetopsandskirtsavailableforunder$30,aswellasoneof-a-kinddressesfor$150.
Thechoiceforthelocationwaspurelyaccidental.“Wesawanadinthepaperandwecamebytocheckitout,”co-ownerJoshSundbergsays.“Weimmediatelyfellinlovewiththeearly1900’stinceiling.”ThelocationhasturnedouttobeablessingasLyndaleAvenuehasbecomeashoppinghotspotinthepastfewyears.
“UptownusedtobetheplacetogoforedgierclothingwhenIwasakid,butnowit’sallGapandExpress,”Joshsays,“LyndaleiswherethepeoplewholiveinUptowncometoshopnow.”
ByVictoriaA.ZumpanowithadditionalreportingbyBethHammarlund
L’étoile SpringFever2006 Volume2Issue1
Cliché
Photo:KristaOakes
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L’étoile SpringFever2006 Cliché
As for the future of Cliché, Josh and Delayne intend to continue to support and offer localdesigners,whilemaintainingabalancewithmass-produceditems.Iftheircurrentsuccessisanyindication, their redandwhitestoresignshouldbeannouncingCliché’spresence toLyndaleAvenueformanyyearstocome.
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Candy Eye FactoryByLiliJackson
Film often stimulates fashion and style. Klute set off the shag haircut. Clueless inspired big-skirtedsuitsandknee-highstockings.BeastieBoysvideosrousedthe loveofoversized, fakemustaches.ForJoEllenMartinsonandWilliamScottReesofCandyEyeFactory,itisfashionthatinspirestheirfilms.
Theduostartedexperimentingwithclothinginelementaryschool.Theynursedtheircreativitybydiggingthroughbarrelsfullofvintageclothing,wigsandfakebloodtoworkonschoolprojects.When they began making films, their work rarely contained stories, but the characters werealwaysstyledtoperfection.ItwasnotuntilafterstudyingMediaArtstogetheratMCADthattheystartedtofocusonthenarrativeaspectoffilm.However,theystillrelyonthestylingoftheirfilmstoexpresswhatwordscannot.Martinson,who focusedonanimation incollege,alsocreatesgraphicsthatenhancetheatmosphereandmood,particularlyintheirfilmsDigitsandTheDriver&theDoe.
Digitsisaperfectexampleoffashionasmuse.WhileflippingthroughabookabouttheBaader-MeinhofGang(RedFactionArmy),MartinsonandReeswereintriguednotonlybythepoliticsofthemilitantMarxist/Maoistorganization,butalsobytheirterroristchic.Armedwithanarsenalof70’svintageclothingandaneyefordesign,CandyEyeFactoryconceptualizedandcreatedastoryofkidnappingandbetrayalthroughaKinoeye.InTheDriver&theDoe,theduotoldataleofexploitationandcruelty,challengingtheviewertoreconsiderthewaythatanimalsareusedtosatisfyourownconsumerism.
TriandExpectorantsaretwomorenon-narrativefilmsontheCandyEyeFactoryDVD(availableat Design Collective, Robot Love and Day-Lab.com). Both delve deeply into interpersonalrelationships, but have extremely contrasting moods. Although they both contain an elementofstrife,Expectorantscreatesanatmosphereofloveandconcern,asacoupletriestocureamysteryailment.Triiscomposedofthreecomplimentaryshorts.AsCandyEye’smostabstractfilm, starring Martinson and Rees, it has a modern dance-like quality that is enhanced by itscreativeediting.
ColorandcharacterripeninbothTheLegendofSantaSusannaandBetsyBenson&theBowtieBoy(s). As their longest and largest film to date, The Legend of Santa Susanna transformsMinneapolisintoasleepysouthwesterntownfromthepackagingofthemaincharacter’sfavoriteUnpasturizedGoat’sMilkcarton,downtotheTexMexthreads.TheLegendhasanairofmagicrealismwhirlingthroughoutwhilethenarrator’stwangsetsthetone.BetsyBenson&theBowtieBoy(s)isnarratedaswell,butshotasaveryinventivereclamationofanoldchildhoodstoryasthenarratorrecordsitherself.
L’étoile SpringFever2006 Volume2Issue1
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Withanintenseworkethicandattentiontodetailthatenablesthemtomakethesefilmswithoutaproductionteam,MartinsonandReesstillgetexcitedaboutthesmallthings,suchasdiscoveringcool and amusing tags on vintage clothing. The idea for their recent film The Mallory’s GoBlackMarketwasinspiredbysillylabelswithnameslikeDaddy’sMoneyandtheimportanceofbrands.
CheckoutCandyEyeFactory’swebsiteatwww.candyeyefactory.com,andstaytunedtoPBSandvariousfilmfestivalsforachancetoviewtheirupcomingworks.
L’étoile SpringFever2006 CandyEyeFactory
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L’étoile SpringFever2006 Volume2Issue1
The TV SoundByAnnaLee
AnyonewhoattendedVoltage:FashionAmplifiedatFirstAvenueinMay,2005cantellyouthattheclubwasbrimming,ifnotoverflowing,withlocaltalent.ThesurprisehitofthenightwasTheTVSound,abandthatseemedmadefortheevent.
StevenHutton,keyboardistandfrontmanfortheTVSound,adistinctfigureinthelocalfashioncommunity,isknownforhiseclectic,80’sinspiredmenswear,currentlysoldatCliché.Hutton’srunway showsare entertaining and innovative andoften involve recordingsof originalmusic,human“mannequins”anddancingthatonecanonlydescribeas“Hutton.”
Minneapolis music enthusiasts may recall Audrey, a band who made 80’s music lovely evenbeforethecurrentretro-revival.MaxMileski,bassistandfounderofDatalystStudios,andJoshLemoine,houndstooth-jacket-wearingdrummer,weretwoofthatband’smembers.MileskiandLemoinearenowkeymembersoftheTVSound.JoiningthemisBrandonDalida,whotaughtguitarlessons,andworkedonhisownelectronicmusicprojectsbeforecomingtotheband.
TheTVSoundwasoriginallyconceivedin1997whenHuttonansweredanadrunbyMileskiinalocalnewspaper.Thetwomusiciansspenttheirfirstfewyearsasaduo“recordingthesongsthatwouldbecometheir21stcenturystatementforthereturnofpopmelody,danceswagger,analog influence, and digital technology”. They did not appear on the local music radar untilwinter/springof2005.
Hutton got more involved with visual arts and clothing design, while Mileski performed withAudreyin2001-2003.Inspring2004,theywerejoinedbyLemoineondrums.Thatfall,Dalidajoinedthegroupafterseeingaperformance.
Recently, I spent some time with the band’s Minneapolis residents, and Steve Hutton joinedusviaspeakerphone,havingrecentlymovedtoChicagoforhisjobwithH&M.Huttonsayshemissesrehearsingandplayingwiththeguys–itiswhatkepthimsaneinMinneapolis.Thoughhehastobeatworkat6a.m.,hestillloveshisnewjobandhasbeenabletoletgoontheweekendsandgettoknowthecity.Hehasbeenscopingoutnewvenuesthere,andI’mhappytoreportChicagocanexpectaTVSoundshowinthenearfuture.
MovingtoChicagowasgoodforHutton.Theshoppingdistrictisvibrant,andheisgettingalotofinspiration.Hehasbeenstylingforshowsandgettinginvolvedwithmarketingandevents.WhenpressedforhistitleatH&M,hehalf–jokedthattheydon’tbelieveintitlesthere,butbeassuredheistheonewhomakestheirwindowssoeye-catching.
OutsideofTheTVSound,therestoftheguyshavebeenkeepingbusy.Mileski,whennotworkingonfinishingtheTVSound’snewCD,hasbeenworkingonotherrecordingprojectsandfixing
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L’étoile SpringFever2006 TheTVSound
uphisnewsailboat.LemoinehasbeenplayingwithlocalmusicianBeight,andDalidahasbeenplayingwithelectro-pop/newwavegroupMercurialRage.
Duringourconversation-inthemidstofaheateddebateregardingthefinerpointsofgauchosandcroppedpants-Irealizedhowcloselytheseguysworktogether,despitetheirlong-distancerelationship.Theiraestheticsandinterestsarevaried,yetstilluniquelyinlinewithoneanother’s.Songwriting,performance,andfashionareimportanttoanyband,butTheTVSoundapproacheseachdetailwiththemostartisticofintentions.Theresultisanexperiencethatmakestheaudiencedance,andleavesthemwithafeelingof“that’showthisshouldbedone.”
Thereleasepartyfortheirnew12-song,self-titledCDissetforMay19thattheVarsityTheater.Theywillbe joinedbyTheAlarmistsandThisWorldFair.Thenightpromisestobefilledwithfashionandexcellentlivemusic,eachbandprominentlyfeaturingkeyboards.
Photo:ColinSimmions
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It’sonethingtowearyourheartonyoursleeve.It’squiteanothertowearyourideas.Labrador,a Twin Cities brand and collective of fashion designers, models, stylists, and photographers,produces clothing inspired by and rooted in politics. These pieces, ranging from casual toluxurious,blendaesthetics,function,andideology.
In 2000, chief designer Barrett Johanneson was spending a semester away from HamlineUniversitytostudyinSouthernCalifornia.FrustratedwithOrangeCountyandLosAngelesstyle,Johannesonandafrienddecidedtopurchaseasewingmachineoverspringbreakandspendthefollowingtwoweeksteachingthemselvestomaketheirownclothes.“Theideareallycameaboutfromanintensedissatisfactionwithsuburban,SouthernCalifornia.Labradorbeganasaresponsetowhatweknewwedidn’tlike,”Johannesonsays.
ThenameLabrador,isaproductofthesamelogic.“Ididn’tlikedogsatthetime.AndLabradorsaresohappyandstupid.Wedecidedtogowithsomethingthatwedidn’tlikeandturnitintosomethingthatwedid,”Johannesonsays.“Andwereallylikedthename.Labradorsortofrollsrightoffthetongue.”
TheNovember2003andAugust2004Anti-FashionDistrict showsat theFineLinebroughtLabrador to the forefrontof theTwinCities fashionscene. Johanneson’sambitiousgoalsandgeneralphilosophycompelledhimtoenlistthehelpofAssistantDesignersAmySorenson,DaniaMiwa,andNoahMiwa.ThedemandsofpreparingfortheAugust2004show,inparticular,fueledthecollaborativeatmospherethatLabradorhasbecomeknownfor.
ThesetwoshowswereprimeexamplesofLabrador’sclearlydefinedcolorpalettes.Johannesonfavoredaboldred,white,andblackcolorschemeinspiredbytheartistBarbaraKruger.“Thecolorschemewasreflectiveofthepolarizationofthepoliticalatmosphere,”explainsJohanneson.“Wewereveryfocusedonconsumercultureandtryingtofitinsocio-politicalcritiquesofmaterialismandfeminism.”
BothofLabrador’sappearancesattheAnti-FashionDistrictshowsincludedstagingthatechoedtheclothing’spoliticalcharge.Inthefirstshow,modelscastballotsonstage.Inthesecond,moreintricatelychoreographedshow,modelswroteonablackboardwithchalk,takingturnswritinganderasingarandomseriesoflettersuntiltheaudiencewasleftwiththemessage“VoteorShuttheFuckUp.”Althoughtheshowsweredecidedlypolitical,Labradordidnotendorseaparticularcandidateorparty.Theirgoalwastoencouragemembersoftheaudiencetomakeachoiceandstandupforit.
ByBethHammarlund
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Afterthe2004presidentialelection,JohannesonchosetobringdowntheintensityoftheLabradormessage.“Everyonewasexhaustedwithpolitics.Everythingwasgoingmoreunderground.Sowebroughtthattoourdesignbyusingmoresubduedcolorssymbolizingbeingundergroundorundertheocean,”Johannesonsays.ThecollectionshownatVoltage:FashionAmplified2005presentedagentlersideofLabrador.Thesubtlecolorpaletteallowed theviewer tobetterappreciate the textureandshapeof theclothing. The shiny fabrics, nubby knits, and voluminous pieces marked an enormous shiftfor the brand. It also created an opportunity to showcase the unique talents of Noah Miwa,whoconstructedasquid-inspiredpurse.ThisparticularpieceisafantasticexampleofMiwa’sbeadworkandwasdyedblack,appropriately,withsquidink.
AlthoughJohannesonisquicktogivecredittohisfellowdesigners,itisclearlyhispassionthatfuelsthebrand.“He’sgreataboutcombiningourideasandgivingusanequalsay,butwhenitcomesdowntoit,LabradorisBarrett’sbaby,”saysDaniaMiwa.
“IwantLabradortobeabletobreaknewgroundinexpressionofhumanideasasopposedtobeingadisplayofconsumerproducts,”Johannesonsays.“IfLabradorwasn’tstrivingtoexpressthoughtful,meaningfulideasabouttheworldwelivein,we’djustbeaminiaturefactory.It’saboutprovokingthoughtanddiscussion.”
To learnmoreaboutLabrador, visit theirwebsiteat labrador-style.comordropby theDesignCollectivetopurchaseselectitems.
PhotographybySteveWolfPhotographyAssistantColinSimmonsMakeupbyMollyRoarkHairbyAddieMroslaIllustrationbyChrisHajnyStyledandwornbyLabrador
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Agoraphobia
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TreebarkbodicebyMelanieReeLycheebyEmilyJohnsonEarringsPaintingbyAmeliaBiewald
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Top-PrincessWarriorbyAbigailMeyersSkirtbyMollyRoarkSkullnecklace,wornonwristbyMotherDaughterRingbyDarcyDesigns
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DressbyLaurenSchadNecklacebyNatalieLucas
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DressbyLauraFulk
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SkirtandleathercorsetbyMelanieReeMetallicjacketbyPrincessWarrior
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JacketbyLambVintageskirtandbustlefromMelanieReeCollection
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SlipfromClichéVintagewrapfromMelanieReeCollection
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DressbyLauraFulkEarringsbyMotherDaughterPaintingbyAmeliaBiewald
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DressbyLauraFulk
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PhotographybyAmyPierceArtDirectionbyMollyRoarkPhotographyAssistant-CharlesMillerHairbyJenHughesHairColorbyBrentCampMakeupbyTrucNguyenPropStylist-GinaReidStyleAssistant-EstherParkArtworkbyAmeliaBiewaldModel-Erin
Oppositepage:DressbyDianevonFurstenbergNecklacebyNatalieLucasHandmadeneckruffsbyMelanieRee
RomanPolanski’s1965filmRepulsionhadCatherineDeneuveplayingCaroleLedoux, abeautiful but repressed youngwomanwho left toherowndeviceswhenherfamilygoesonavacation,descendsintoapsychoticstateassheisconsumedbyclaustrophobia. Deneuvesharedthesamepatrician façadeandicymannerismthatmadeGraceKellyandTippiHedrentwoofAlfredHitchcock’sfavored actresses. This frigid type of beauty instills in the beholder not onlyadmiration,butanurgetouncoverandevendestroyitinasearchforsomethingdeeper.Atonceperfectlybeautifulandtragicallyflawed,Hitchcock’splatinumblondeexhibits“lotsofapparentreserve,lotsoftemperamentinprivate”.Sheis“icecoldtea,pipinghotsex.”
Thethemeofwomenbeingtrapped,–whetherphysicallyormetaphorically—isnotnew.19thcenturyauthorsCharlottePerkinsGilmanandEdnaSt.VincentMillayalsofeaturedwomenwhowereconfined—ifnotwithinspatialboundariesthenwithinsocietalconstraintsortheirownunquietminds.Gilman’sprotagonistin“TheYellowWallpaper”awriter,goesmadwhenforcedtoconvalesceafteralongillnesswithoutanoutletforhercreativity.
Dynamicsofhumaninteraction–especiallythoseoftheromantictypeidealizedinliterature,music,andart–actascatalyst,settingintomotionthetypeofemotionalchemistrythatchangeseachcharacter.Outsidethecinematicworldofresolvedintrigueandhappydenouement, l’étoile’sowncoolblondspendsherday insolitude,posingthequestion:whathappenstoourhiddenselvesifthereisnoonetheretodiscoverthem?
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Where to buyL’étoile SpringFever2006 Volume2Issue1
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DarcyDesignsavailableatDesignCollective,131126thstreetwest,Minneapolis,612-377-1000
LauraFulkavailableatCliché,2403Lyndaleavenuesouth,Minneapolis,612-870-0420,[email protected]
LabradoravailableatDesignCollectiveandatlabrador-style.com
LambavailableatNordstrom
LycheebyEmilyJohnsonavailableatGallery360,3011west50thstreet,Minneapolis,612-925-2400
MotherDaughteravailableatDesignCollective
PrincessWarriorbyAbigailMeyersavailableatDesignCollectiveandatprincesswarrior.net
MelanieReeandavailableatClichéandseamstrix.net
MollyRoarkavailableatmollyroark.com
TwoBitBlingavailableatmyspace.com/twobitbling
DianevonFurstenbergavailableatNordstrom
OpinionBy Michelle Skally Doilney
SpringhasarrivedinMinnesota,butlikeallofusatsometimeoranother,itisstillwinterinmybrain. My endless ideas and my doubts about expressing them clash and mix into a slothfulslurpee.Wintertimeand itshardshipsarehandyanalogiesandexcuses for stalled ideasandprojects.Yet,springfollowswinterandthemindslurpeemusteventuallythaw.
Onarecentvisit to theBig IslandofHawaii,mymindslurpeemeltedenoughto letcreativityflowfromthedarknessintothelight.Itwasn’tsun,surforMaiTaisthatinspiredme.Itwasthemythologicalgoddessofvolcanoesandherawesomepower.MotherPeleincineratesforestsaswellaspavement;thenshepushesbacktheocean,creatingthenewestMotherEarthontheplanet.TomanyHawaiians,she’snotamythandcertainlynotajoke.Scienceaside,anyforceofnaturethatcanconsumeyourneighborhoodshouldberespectedandtakenseriously.Insteadoftryingtocontroltheuncontrollable,wiseislandersshowrespectforherprocess,stepquicklyoutofthewayandwaitfortheeventualfruitsofherexplosions.Forlaughs,myhusbandJimaskedfourdifferentParkRangershowmuchrainittooktocoolandstoplava.Theyallstutteredalot,tryingtodiplomaticallyexplainthelawsofnaturetotwomainlandmorons.
Peleandherrhythmssymbolizelife’scycleofdeathandrebirth,theyin-yangofdarkandlight,thereleasingofoldideasandtheembracingofnew.WhenPeleerupts,thecurrentlandscapeisdestroyed.WherePeleerupts,newlandsareborn.AsJimandIhikedoverbizarresheetsoflava,wewereawedbythedesolationoftheglassy,blackgroundagainstthebluesky.Inournextsteps,wewereawedbythebeautyoftherippled,newlandandbythetenacityoflittleflowerspeekingouthereandthere.Wherethereismoisture,evenbarrenlavamothersnewlife.
Everygoshdarn little“mistake” ispartof thecreativeprocess.As I just realized, thankstomycomputer’sspellcheck,thedifferencebetweenstaringandstarting isonlyoneletter(today’sslurpeepuzzle=figureitout).Staringistheoutwardsignofsomethingdeeperandit’susuallythelastconsciousactionbeforeheadingtothecouchfor“thinkingtime”.Webuildourcreativevolcano,collectingbitsofdailylife,naps,frustration,TV,storefrontposters,andlatenightphonecallsmadefromthebathtubtootherstuckcreatives.
“Starting”comesafterstaring:ourinnermixtureofconversationandexperiencecondensesintolavathatiseventuallyreadytobloworflow.Buildyourownhabitstoharnessthestareandgrabthestart.Findwaystoreleasesteamuntilthelavabubblesup.Enjoy“stare”butschedulefacetimeat yourstudioorcomputer.Give “start”achance,aplace tohappen.Withoutgraspingandgrowingaroundinourwarehousesofwords,experiencesandideas,we’dendupbackingradeschoolland,fillingspacewithadjectiveslike“very,very”andcolorslike“sunshineyellow.”“Stupendouslyinsignificant”and“eye-piercingyellow”comeoutofcoffeeshopargumentsoverusingpencilsvs.penstowritecomplaintlettersandofchamomileteadaydreamsat2AM.
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Howcanwereallylamentourmentalwinterswhentheyarepartofus,ourownheatingcore,thesourceofsomethingnewtocomeafterthethaw?Towhollyhonorourpoems,photos,paintings,andinspiredcoutureweneedtohonortheusuallydark,sometimespainful,andalmostalwaysfrustratingprocessthatbirthsthem.Sooften,weseeourendresultastheonlythingwithstreetcred.WerejoicewhenournextMonaLisaisdoneandblockoutthedaysoflyingaroundeatingNutellafromajarandwatchinginfomercialswithdisgustingzeal.Weneedtoopenourselvestoourfinaldraft,andtohowwegetthereinthefirstplace.
Feed your own Pele with nourishment, meditation, friendship and a foreign book or movie.Respectthetimeittakestobuildyourcreationsfromwithinandhonoryourwinterhibernationaswellasyourspringtimemagma.Prepareyourselffortheexplosions(oratleastshortredbursts),becausePelerewardswithnewterrainevenasshedestroysthatwhichnolongerservesyou.
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MichelleSkallyDoilney, aMinnesotanbybirthandaccent, is reinventingherself at hernew homes in Utah and California. A former hospital food schlepper turned corporateclamberer,sheiscurrentlyacertifiedFengShuiconsultant,certifiedYogainstructorandbusinessconsultant.Mostimportantly,Michelleisacertifiedwriter/photographeratsoul,withtonsofstoriesandideasjustliketherestofus.
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l’étoile Nightlife
TheTwinCities fashion intelligentsia invadedAPrettyMindStudio for thewinter and springl’étoileevents.Art,music,cocktailsandparlorgamesentertainedeventhemostjadedscenesters.Paintingsweresold.Drinksweredowned.Andourlease?Itwaslost.Anythinginthenameofart,right?
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The creative class flooded Northeast Minneapolis’ Density Studios for the opening of JoshMcEvitt’sprovocativeexhibit,“IntothePink”.Partygoersdrankgummybearcocktails,exchangedairkisses,andeventookoccasionalleaveofthedancefloorto,youknow,actuallycheckouttheart.Ithasrecentlycometol’étoile’sattentionthatseveralattendeesweremolestedbyadancingbear.Weofferoursincereapologiestoanyonethat“BearisHilton”mayhaveoffended.
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a g a l l e r y f o r t h e a r t i s t i n a l l o f u s
ARTISTS IN ADVERTISINGARTISTS IN ADVERTISINGA showing for Art-a-Whirl 2006
May 19, 20 and 21*at
1121 Jackson Street NE, Suite 113located in
The Waterbury Building
Call Ellen at 612.767.3457for more information.
*During all Art-a-Whirl scheduled hours.
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