lara cresswell - portfolio, menswear
TRANSCRIPT
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Concept Book
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COMBAT UTILISED Menswear AW16
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COMBAT UTILISED AIMS TO EXAMINE THE RELATIONSHIP BETWEEN THE SECOND WORLD WAR AND THE STRENGTH OF THE COMMON MAN
B y l o o k i n g a t t h e traditional clothing worn during the Second World War, primarily the battledress, and accessing the main characteristics of c l o t h i n g , t h i s collection combines t h e p a s t w i t h t h e p r e s e n t . T h e f u n c t i o n a l i t y o f clothing worn during the Second World War; p o c k e t s , f a b r i c s , design, is combined with modern day shapes a n d s t r u c t u r e s ; volume, length and i n t e r c h a n g e a b l e garments.
Historically, menswear has always followed set rules, standard g a r m e n t s s u c h a s t r o u s e r s , s h i r t s , c o a t s , w h i c h traditionally are made f r o m p r e d i c t a b l e f a b r i c s . T h i s collection pushes the b o u n d a r i e s f r o m anticipated designs to futuristic.
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panels
woollen fabrics
pockets
structure
examining different features throughout the Second World War and current structures. Looking at details including pockets, woollen fabrics, panels and structure.
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Pockets PanelsKnit
additional key features within this collection are pockets, knit and panels. pockets appearing throughout the garments and reflect the functional clothing worn and designed during the Second World War. Knitwear will make up approximately 60% of the collection and is a further direct reference to the War. Subtle panels will appear throughout, influenced by military machinery.
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patch bellow pockets
woollen materials
functional
exploration of length
durable
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clean lines - A line shape
geometric shapes
straight lines - pleating
volume and oversized
architecture studio, Switzerland
University of St Thomas, Texas
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racked knitting to show reference to a modern structure that imitates a wave shape. this knit is racked each row to create the continuous, even wave shape.
to bring a contemporary feel to a traditional textile; knit, the shape created for one garment is a ‘wave style’ knitted texture. this ‘wave’ reflects modern shapes and structures as shown in the images to the right.
TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENTS; KNIT
s k y s c r a p e r i n P a n a m a displays an obvious spiral shape which when looking straight on at, replicated a strong wave pattern
s k y s c r a p e r i n S o u t h K o r e a showcasing subtle ‘wave’ shapes
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panelling with straight lines in unique and inventive designs
knit with different textures and shapes. exploration of different widths of racking and looking at back bed panelling, reinforcing the feature of subtle panels
TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENTS; KNIT AND PANELLING
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to add a further dimension to the trouser, looking at a WW2 inspired shape; formal trouser cut to just below the knee. Rather than met with a sock, the trouser will be continued with knit, to the ankle
TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENTS; HISTORICAL
ADD SKETCHES
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t h e s t r u c t u r e d building which has been interpreted as pleating has been transposed into the trouser design. the cropped, wide leg trousers have been heavily pleated on the front and the back g i v i n g p l e n t y o f volume
b a t t l e d r e s s inspired jacket
s h o r t e n e d t h e length - to become a cropped bomber jacket
key details remain; p a t c h p o c k e t , waistband and tucks
TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENTS; 3D APPLIED TECHNIQUES
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TECHNICAL DEVELOPMENTS; 3D APPLIED TECHNIQUES
the overcoat is lengthened to sit just a couple of inches above the floor and has a slight a-line flare to the shape, referencing this building in Texas. A clean, swift line.
developed the original cargo trouser into a more formal, tailored trouser. this trouser has the historical World War Two reference and incorporates knit into the typical woven trouser.
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volumous, pleated trouser
extreem, volumous trousers
gathering in at the waist by the belt
gathered around the ankle
panel at the base of the coat in contrasting
material
oversized, volumous coat which holds
its shape
2D DEVELOPMENT
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2D DEVELOPMENT
s t r a i g h t , a n g l e d l i n e s replicated by the use of asymmetric panels
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initial first line up
wide leg, pleated cropped trousers
volumous trouser teamed with skinny knitwear
slim fit knitted, crewe neck jumper
trouser with added volume
contrasting skinny with volume
2D DEVELOPMENT
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look at bagging out trouser - increase movement, quite volumous
cropped bomber jacket, paired with knitted trouser
- more in-keeping with style
2D DEVELOPMENT
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1.
Longer coat, t o f i n i s h level with the b o t t o m o f trouser
Polo neck to o n e h i g h e r than mandarin collar on coat
2.
Padding on only front of knee
Polo neck jumper
4.
C o m p l e t e k n i t t e d trouser with cropped bomber jacket, as more consistent with style of collection
3.
C r o p p e d , p l e a t e d trouser for consistence with outfit 1 - with grown on WW2 inspired waistband
2D DEVELOPMENT
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final line up
look at altering the length of the s h i r t o n o u t f i t 4 a n d a f t e r development, change the shirt to a knitted polo neck vest - keeping the longer length
2D DEVELOPMENT
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colour board is compiled entirely of images of the outdoor landscape of the Second World War. Rich colours have been selected representing aeroplanes, vehicles and scenery.
khaki
ink blue
charcoal
granite
cranberry
cream
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fabrics are mainly sourced from AW Hainsworth Mill in Yorkshire, reinforcing the improve of Britain within this collection. fabrics are woollen, reflecting the materials used during World War Two that were needed for sustainability and functionality.
REN KHAKI (RE002) Made
from 100%
wool, the
True Heritage
range consists
of fabrics
selected from
worsted,
over-coating
and
authentic
uniform
materials.
Widths
between
147-150cms.
LIGHT GREY Made
from
70%
wool
and
30%
other
fibres, Melange
Melton has
the weight
of 315gsm
and width
of 145cm.
It is
available
in
a recipe
of
different
blend options.
MEDIUM GREY Made
from
70%
wool
and
30%
other
fibres, Melange
Melton has
the weight
of 315gsm
and width
of 145cm.
It is
available
in
a recipe
of
different
blend options.
WHITE HEAVY MELTON Made
from 100%
wool, the
True Heritage
range consists
of fabrics
selected from
worsted,
over-coating
and
authentic
uniform
materials.
Widths
between
147-150cms.
BRICK RED OVERCOATING Made
from 100%
wool, the
True Heritage
range consists
of fabrics
selected from
worsted,
over-coating
and
authentic
uniform
materials.
Widths
between
147-150cms.
WOVEN FABRICS
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KNIT COLOUR WAYSall knitwear was created on a 7gg dubbed machine, creating a fine, yet defined knit. Colours included two different shades of khaki, navy/grey blue, oatmeal, cream, red and grey. They were all double bed knit, with occasional single bed panels. A 2.5gg machine was used only once, to create a thick textured scarf in cream, with a red panel with a small injection of grey.
7GG DUBIED MACHINE 7GG DUBIED MACHINE7GG DUBIED MACHINE7GG DUBIED MACHINE 2.5GG DUBIED MACHINE
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design line up showcasing the proportion of clothing and silhouette. slimmer fit clothing on upper body with volumous trousers, providing plenty of movement.
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Details: Floor length overcoat
Main body of the coat, arms and collar made from 100% wool (khaki) with the side panel made from a contrasting 100% wool (cream). Side seam pockets incorporated into the side panel seam.
Details: Wide leg, pleated, cropped trouser
Trouser to be made from 100% wool (light grey), with slanted, trouser pockets.
Details: Slim fit, fine knit polo neck
Made form 7gg knit, in khaki yarn. Skinny fit, with cuff and hem in ribbed knit.
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Details: Knitted scarf
7gg knitted scarf with cream yarn with two red panels at either end.
Details: Pleated tailored trouser
Main body of the trouser made from 100% wool (khaki:) with two pleats each side of the front with 1 dart each side on the back. Trouser has slanted, trouser pockets. The lower part of the leg is knitted with khaki yarn - 7gg.
Details: Slim fit, fine knit polo neck
Made form 7gg knit, in blue/grey yarn. Skinny fit, with cuff and hem in ribbed knit.
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Details: Knitted scarf
2.5gg knitted scarf from cream yarn with a red yarn panel at either end of the scarf with a grey yarn trim.
Details: Knitted Jumper 7gg knitted jumper. Contrasting, two tone wave on main body of jumper , grey and navy yarn. Sleeves knitted in solid blue/grey yarn.
Details: Wide leg, pleated, cropped trouser
Trouser to be made from 100% wool (dark grey), with slanted, trouser pockets.
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Details: Cropped bomber jacket
Made from 100% wool (grey) w i t h p a t c h p o c k e t s , concealed button stand and wrap around waistband.
Details: Knitted trouser
7 g g k n i t t e d trouser with 7gg knitted asymmetric panels.
Details: Knitted vest
Elongated 7gg knitted vest with a back bed side panel on the front. Robbed knitted along the hem and around arm holes.
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JW ANDERSON
“Its unique design aesthetic offers a modern interpretation of masculinity and femininity by creating thought-provoking silhouettes through a conscious cross-pollination between menswear and womenswear elements.”
J W A n d e r s o n i s a competitor mainly due to his approach of using through provoking shapes. He looks a modern shapes to influence his designs.
Anderson’s price point is also very similar to the proposed price of the C O M B A T c o l l e c t i o n ; o u t e r w e a r £ 7 0 0 - 1 1 0 0 , k n i t w e a r £ 2 8 5 - £ 5 8 5 , trousers £400-500, tops £200-£300.
COMPETITOR
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Always at the core of his universe (and as essential as the clothes themselves) are attitudes, moods and statements about individuality and independence.
The designs are always looking for the now and tomorrow, even if they are inspired by historical or classical references. Modern proportions, a constant research for fabrics and textures and above all the interplay of pure construction and new shapes with the body and psyche of the contemporary man.
RAF SIMONS
Raf Simons is a main competitor due to his futuristic approach to design, that us often inspired by historical references. His constant review on fabric is also key, as this is research and a has a key impact in his designs. His experimental approach to construction is another key reason that Simons is a main competitor.
COMPETITOR
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CONSUMERThe customer to this collection likes to wear traditional masculine clothing, whilst exploring new trends and pushing the boundaries so that he is not set in the ‘ordinary’.
He works within the art industry; architect, product designer, interior designer. His profession means he is interested in up and coming technology, shapes and structures; he is a forward thinking man that will therefore appreciate new designs and shapes.
He is broadminded and appreciates buying traditional produce and relishes learning about different heritages.
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MARKET PLACEMENT
HERVIA BAZAAR
Hervia Bazaar is a store which would be most suitable to house the collection COMBAT UTILISED . Hervia Bazaar is at the forefront of cutting edge fashion and designed for the avant garde customer. The vision of Creative Director Oscar Pinto Hervia is to “curate luxury design pieces”, which COMBAT UTILISED consists of. This store also stock other brands which are at this competitors price point.
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Gold Foil
Spot Gloss
Raised Spot Gloss
BRANDING AND GARMENT BAGS
business cards will be replicated four times, showing four different colours, all information however will remain consistent. the cards will simply show the brand name, contact information and specialism; menswear.
garments bags will also double are a carrier bag. garments bags will fold in half and fasten, and the hook and the top will act at the handle. this continues the high end brand, as a garment bag is more luxurious than a regular carrier bag. the exterior of the bag will be a digitally printed image of the collection with a block, contrasting colour at the base.
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SWING TAGS
the swing tags for this collection will be double sided, with photoshoot images on either side. this will showcase other items of the collection for customers to see, when they are purchasing other items. this is a great way to show how outfits work together and what other garments and accessories are available.
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PROMOTION LOOK BOOK MAGAZINE
UTILISED COMBAT AW16
LARA.CRESSWELL
The look book will be in-keeping with the theme of the collection and concept; it will consist of modern and slick looking pages, showcasing photoshoot images and close up details. To ensure the look book is aimed at the forward thinking man, it will have a high-end, professional finish, with a striking and clear look to each page.
Designer: Lara Cresswell Stylist: Lara Cresswell Model: Genghao at Model Students Photographer: Martin fu
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LOOKBOOK
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LOOKBOOK
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