katty xiomara - anje.pt · t. 93 405 62 64 | 22 617 02 71 padre ... details can make in men’s ......
TRANSCRIPT
KATTY XIOMARA
An interpretation of the new forms of urban art, combined with the ancestral concepts of
decoration of urban heritage. The traditional Portuguese tile acts as a screen for the symbolic
expression of street art that, translated into clothing, reveals simple clean contours. The
great ornament is focused on the graphic element, representative of these two artistic
visions.
The shapes are geometric, but fluent in their design and always presented with some
symmetry. Some pieces are outlined by contrasting lines in black and cobalt blue. The first
colour defines the primary design and the second reflects the colour traditionally used in tile,
from which it gets its name. The base colours are centred on off-white, on black and on
glacier grey, harmonized by a warmer palette of burnt tones of orange.
The result is an urban and feminine collection, with a strong attitude that instils the motto "live
one day at a time with the best of vibes".
CONTACTS
Katty Xiomara, Lda. LOJA / ATELIER Rua da Boavista, 795, 4050-110 Porto e. [email protected] w. www.kattyxiomara.com
JÚLIO TORCATO
“Porto”
For a male audience with an elegant and urban strong personality, which requires originality,
identity and quality, Júlio Torcato’s collection for winter 2013/2014 is entitled "PORTO".
The wrought iron balconies over the Douro River were the starting point for this collection of
classical but very contemporary inspiration, manufactured in the best tradition of customised
tailoring. With stringent personalised cuts, the templates are manufactured with materials
and finishes of the highest quality, such as (very fine) pure wool, or wool blended with silks in
the most technical materials, such as neoprene and polyamide.
The colour palette is based on dark shades such as dark brown, grey, burgundy and dark
blue, which are highlighted by other more vivid shades such as ochre yellow, red, duck blue
and violet.
CONTACTS
w. [email protected] f. https://www.facebook.com/juliotorcato?fref=ts
ANABELA BALDAQUE “…and then there was light….”
Around here…women are
always the relaxed, seductive,
romantic diva, but this time
round she is a more pop one.
These trendy and urban women
remain in a more irreverent
attitude. Party looks admittedly
used in daytime. Admitted
obsession for fun colours and
textures. The collection
contrasts with smoother totally
plain looks. Plaids and squares
create atmospheres of the 60s
and 70s.
PIECES
Varied versions of large jackets,
some that cross and others with
a zipper, with highlight on the
collars. Applied textures of lace
and fur. Shirt dresses, a piece
that is recreated throughout the
collection in various approaches. Masculine tight pants. Pleated short skirts in godet.
MATERIALS
Materials such as nappa leather: plain and in castings and of pearly textures. Plain and
fancy wool pieces, tweeds in wool blend, silk and sequined fabrics.
COLOURS
Colours such as burgundy with "tiffany" blue and grey. Mixed
pinks come in tune with browns and are spotted with dark blue.
They regain joy in the red and light-green and brick red. White paints
the palette of this dressed song.
SUPPORT
CONTACTS
ATELIER t. 93 405 62 64 | 22 617 02 71
Padre Luís Cabral, nº1080, 1º andar, 4150-461 Porto – Foz STORE c. Cristina Alves t. (+351) 93 405 62 64 | (+351) 22 617 29 14
Padre Luís Cabral, nº1075, 4150-461 Porto – Foz e. Diogo Baldaque - [email protected]
CLÁUDIA GARRIDO
[Bloom Space]
This collection was inspired by Oscar Wilde’s book, "The Selfish Giant", and by the giants of
boxing of the ‘70s. From history, we removed the seven most important moments: the arrival
of the giant to the garden of his house and his threat to punish the invaders; the construction
of the wall; the snow/frost/winter in the garden; the bird passing the wall; the giant playing
with the children; and the death of the giant. The seventh point is what gives the collection
its name: the giant is a friend but disappears.
The giants of boxing of the ‘70s are represented in the illustrations, developed in partnership
with Carolina Brito, and in the details of the pieces that were characteristic of sport. All these
elements are portrayed in the jumpers. Many techniques were used in the knits - from ‘all
over’ jacquards, digital printing, "jacquard + localized printing”, to thin sets contrasting with
very thick sets; the artisanal and industrial.
PIECES
As a designer with the intent to cultivate reuse and because I value knitted pieces, I decided
to reuse jeans from old collections, giving them a new life. This was only possible through
localized and all over dyeing, in some situations. The idea is to create greater harmony
among all the pieces and thus display blocks of colour. The most important point is that
there is a gradation from the warmer earth colours to the cooler colours, such as ice.
SHAPES
In terms of shape, all the pieces are presented in an H line, always sticking to a more
relaxed and fun look. The possibility of re-knitting knitted pieces results in some reliefs. The
use of threads with different gradations and new structures were also developed.
MATERIALS
The materials used are made up of various raw materials, from wool to mohair to cotton in
the jeans.
SUPPORTS
A. Ferreira & Filhos, S.A.; LTWash; Nobrand; Carolina Brito e
Os Garridos.
CONTACTS
Rua Porto Brejo, nº 81, 3860-083 Avanca, Estarreja – Portugal t. 914225687 e. [email protected] w. http://claudiagarrido.portfoliobox.net/ //
http://www.viewfashionbook.com/index.php/gallery?func=3Dviewcategory&catid==3D4079 // http://hommesblog.blogspot.com/2011/10/claudia-garrido-ss12-portugal-fashi=on.html?spref=3Dfb
MEAM by RICARDO PRETO “Home Body”
The future and the vibrant world
today provide the inspiration for
this collection is a reflection of
the soul of an era in which
women evokes femininity and its
absolute independence.
Slim silhouette, with volumes to
counteract sticky parts, the
search for a new way of being a
modern woman, educated,
healthy and attentive to the
challenges of today's society,
with the ambition of ultra-feminine inspire love and admiration.
Patterns, rugs, camouflaged, landscapes, tigers and lions printed and embroidered in gold
and color give emphasis ace silks, cottons and wools.
The colors like red green and blue contrast with the black, yellow and white.
CONTACTS
Meamstyle Lda. Lugar de Cabanos – Galegos Stª Maria 4754 – 908 Barcelos t. (+351) 253 809 090
CARLA PONTES
[Bloom Space] “Bloco” (Block)
From a more micro scale of vision arises the broken, polished or chipped rock which is
formed in the third dimension. In textured blocks, rough-looking pleated volumes develop
with a soft and warm touch. In a more mineral dimension, the laminated cut exposes the
sedimentation shafts that rip and create yellowish inclusions.
The reduced palette is reflected in the predominance of shades of sodalite blue and basalt.
Occasionally, there are inclusions of dull pyrite yellow on a cotton jacquard that mirrors the
sedimentation shafts that tear through each block. Different textures unfold in knitted wools,
creating irregularities on the surface. Different knits establish the softness that comforts the
interiors, also including that delicacy of touch in the velvety twills and outside textures.
SUPPORTS
Exporgal, Malhas e Confecções Lda; Têxtil Gonçalves e Santos Lda.; Sofia Cunha
Sapatarias.
CONTACTS m. (+351) 933 188 527 e. [email protected] w. carlapontesdesign.tumblr.com f. www.facebook.com/carlapontesdesign
DIOGO MIRANDA
“Lady v.s. Boyish”
HOURGLASS SILHOUETTE VS
OVERSIZED SILHOUETTE
The autumn/winter 2013/14
collection is inspired by two distinct
poles: the sober and elegant
sophisticated side of the ladylike
feminine universe, in contrast with
the influence of the masculine side,
transmitted by the oversized shapes,
for their comfort and more relaxed
and cool attitude.
COLOURS
Black, champagne white, navy blue,
sky blue, burgundy and petrol green.
CONTACTS SHOP Praça da Republica nº60-62 4610-116 Felgueiras c. Eduarda Monteiro t. 255 925 423 e. [email protected] w. www.diogomiranda.net
LUÍS BUCHINHO KNITWEAR
The Luis Buchinho Knitwear collection for winter
2013/14 has great influence from the industrial
design of the 70s, translated into a line of pieces for
daily use, with a strong urban dimension.
Simple and effective graphics with unusual colour
combinations, where the colour blocks and bars are
clear in all the silhouettes.
FORMS
Contrast between the male/female subject in
straight and comfortable silhouettes.
COLOURS
Black, white, mint green, army green, mole,
burgundy, blues with grey pigment.
MATERIALS
Viscose jersey, cotton jersey, leather, fur, wool bouclé, knits in several forms and threads.
SUPPORT
Footwear Jersey Gloves
CONTACTS
ATELIER Rua José Falcão, 122 4050-315 Porto
t. +351 222 012 776 e. [email protected] w.www.luisbuchinho.pt
STEFANO FICETOLA
[Bloom Space] “Rebuild”
“REBUILD” is a collection aimed at a
male audience that is quite
comprehensive. It is for a young
adult who values sobriety and
recognizes the difference that the
details can make in men’s
appearance.
The inspiration for this proposal
comes from observing a Japanese
urban environment, in an attempt to
rebuild a strong mental image,
created on the journey to this city.
The starting point of the structuring
details of the collection is the details
that resulted from the junction of
what was seen there, with elements
of classic Japanese clothing.
Both the colours and the textures
used throughout the collection are
faithful to this image, present in the
mind, thus aiding in its physical reconstruction.
CONTACTS
MIGUEL VIEIRA
Woman - strong, beautiful, seductive,
delicate, confident, objective,
valuable, elegant, rational, charming,
charismatic, powerful, loving,
compassionate, sophisticated,
glamorous, determined, harmonious,
feminine, true and unique.
COLOURS
Cloud white, angora, champagne,
new gold, brown liquor, anthracite
and night black.
SILHOUETTE
Alternating between the hourglass
and rectangular silhouette, both short
and long. Slightly oversized coats
and baggy trousers. Mini or knee-
high skirts and dresses.
MATERIALS
Sequins on silk base; jacquard fabrics with floral and animal motifs; plain fabrics; knits; plain
tweeds and tweed with sequins.
DETAILS
Set of volumes and asymmetries, large frills, mix of colours and textures in localized details.
Raglan sleeves with or without volume.
ACCESSORIES
Shoes and boots.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Xana Guerra - Music; Paulo Gomes – Styling; Collove.
To almost all the women in my life…
CONTACTS
Miguel Vieira, I. C. Moda, lda. Rua Alexandre Herculano, n.º 308, 3701-911 S. João da Madeira Portugal t. 00 351 256 833 923 | e. [email protected] w. www.miguelvieira.pt | b. http://miguelvieiraoficial.blogspot.com | f. www.facebook.com/pages/miguel-
vieira/201298835258
JOANA FERREIRA
[Espaço Bloom]
CONTACTS
t. +351 914 691 416 e. [email protected] w. http://joanafferreira.tumblr.com/
TMCollection by Teresa Martins “Origins”
In Origins patterns, embroideries and textures
merge in an autumn mood palette, flourishing and
blossom in a pretty feminine and harmonious
collection.
Wools, linens and cottons interact with each other,
conveying multiple messages within a timeless and
versatile atmosphere.
A hybrid collection, where simple and graphic
elements articulate with more elaborate ones,
reminding of the Origins of TMcollection when,
each piece was a unique mastery in a particular Universe of colors, patterns and textures.
FABRICS
Wools, Silks, Cottons, Hand Wovens, Linens & Jerseys.
COLOURS
Moonstruck, Charcoal, Burnt Ochre, True Blue, Black, Natural, Smoke, Denim, Sirocco
PRINTS
Rain Stripes, Brush Stripes, Vichy
EMBROIDERIES
Multithreads, Lacy Flowers, Multiherbs, Geometric Flowers, Laurel Leafs
CONTACTS TM COLLECTION BY TERESA MARTINS Rua das Padarias, 11 Armazém C 2755-062 Alcabideche Contact presse: Fábia Campos t. +351 214 812 860 | +351 919 453 702 f. +351 214 812 865 e. [email protected] | [email protected] w. www.tmcollection.com | http://tmcollection.blogspot.com
CONCRETO by HELDER BAPTISTA “Intensity and Passion”
A collection with the abundance of colour that is the
hallmark of Concreto, transporting us to a cosy and
opulent winter. This is Helder Baptista’s suggestion
for the cold season.
From the delicate harmony, among whites, creams
and golds, to black and white, a trend that ignited the
fashionista universe and promises to continue to be in
vogue, without leaving out the intensity of bright red
and yellow or the sober refinement of greens. The
sophisticated tones provide intensity for an elegant
and flexible silhouette.
Proposals for women are marked by large forms,
overlapping knits, open points and large knits, which
richly contrast with simple classic and skin-tight lines
such as skinny pants and draped skirts, balancing
classical elegance with the usual boldness of the brand.
For men there are the patterned jacquard skinnies, with bold prints such as pied de poule,
highlighted by thick knitted sweaters and by the accurate cut of the blazers. A collection in
which brightness, intensity and passion combine to comfort the senses and make a style
statement against the rigors of the elements.
CONTACTS
R. Alexandre Herculano, 55 - Apartado 23 3534-951 Mangualde t. +351 232 618 480 e. [email protected] w. www.concreto.pt
CHEYENNE “Urban” // “Landscape”
Cheyenne Fw'13 is presented in two different families, "Urban" and "Landscape", with more
vintage and more casual looks, respectively.
URBAN
“OLD SCHOOL” THEME
The classic plaid applied to pants, skirts and shorts, blends with a
soft denim wash. Ball-shaped details and embroidered badges
are applied to the pieces to give them a bold and sophisticated
collegial look.
COLOURS
Natural, soft pink, coral, burgundy, lilac and navy blue.
“ORDINARY FOOLISHNESS” THEME
The rule is "no rules". Everything is mixed up, giving rise to the
pieces that include shine, plastic, leather and fur, among others.
COLOURS
‘Nastro’ red, bright violet, ocean blue, aubergine purple, brown
and black.
LANDSCAPE
“GREEN COMBAT” THEME
Nature inspires and the theme takes on
its identity! Floral prints mixed with knitted
sets, silks, washed denim with vintage
inspiration in shades of nature.
COLOURS
Silver grey, lake blue, mineral green, nutmeg, brown, chocolate
and dragonfly blue.
“NOMAD” THEME
Nomads: worldly people in constant motion! And so the theme is
defined, featuring thick knitted sets mixed with bold and colourful
denim wash. A mixture of denim, fur and leather fabrics. Elaborate
pieces with care in mixing the various raw materials.
COLOURS
Coconut brown, sunflower orange and beige.
“COCKTAIL MYSTERY” THEME
“A little bit of attitude”. It is the shapes, details and raw materials
that make up the theme. Studs, sequins and fabrics with shine
inspire to create a night-out look.
COLOURS
Black, royal blue, bark grey and gold.
CONTACTS
c. Teresa Pereira e. [email protected] w. www.cheyenne.pt
MAD DRAGON SEEKER by ALEXANDRINE CADILHE & DANIEL SIMÕES “Mixed Memories”
In order to create a new wave, the Mad Dragon Seeker Autumn/Winter 13/14 collection is
inspired by the various trends that it brought together.
Geometric patterned fabrics and comfortable satins merge with jeans and tweeds, creating a
revisited classic look that interprets the versatility of our lives and permeability of the trends,
leaving no rigid barriers or defined categories. From elaborate fabrics and bolder forms, to
the confrontation of the maximalism with the minimalism of recent times, everything is
blended into an adaptation of revisited memories adapted to our days and our needs...
Everything is custom-made, with the intention of sharing what we are, without artifice, without
dissimulation or games.
CONTACTS
HEADOFFICE Rua da Cachada, 237, 4755-017 Barcelos Portugal
t. (+351)253 834 051 e. [email protected] fax. (+351)253 834 050 w. www.mdscollection.com
DOM COLLETTO
Dom Colletto is a brand of ready-to-wear men and women’s clothing of Italian inspiration,
which sees in the "stylization of the Sphinx of the Roman God, Janus" the synthesis of the
values that represent it and inspire it: "tradition and modernity, classicism and innovation,
but always pursuing timeless elegance and good taste, expressed in the highest quality of
the materials, cuts, confection and presentation of the pieces".
The collection on "optimism and innovation" defies the standards of functionality and creates
innovative plays of light and volume. The ultra-fine threads and blends of wool reflect the
freshness of a clean look. The knits can follow the curves of the body, for increased comfort,
or present a straight line, perfect in motion, for dynamic lifestyles.
The predominant colours are black, burgundy and grey. The materials used are 100% extra-
fine wool, wool blends, silk and cashmere.
CONTACTS
c. António Cunha e. [email protected]
TERESA ABRUNHOSA
[Bloom Space]
The new collection by Teresa Abrunhosa
pursues a seductive aesthetic identity that
enhances the feminine silhouette, characteristic
of the brand’s spirit. Inspired by a specific
aesthetic of the 40s, the collection contrasts
tight tops, baggy jumpers and bomber jackets
with pencil skirts and masculine-cut trousers.
The lavish materials, such as leather, velvet
and tweed, textured in shades of black, grey,
purple and red, are complemented by marbled
patterns and adorned with subtle metallic
details.
The ‘Teresa Abrunhosa’ brand builds its
aesthetic through forms of intense sensuality,
capturing a market that is looking for a
feminine, powerful and elegant style. One year
after her implementation, Teresa Abrunhosa
already has an online store and is present in
commercial spaces in Porto.
CONTACTS
c. Teresa Abrunhosa
w. www.teresaabrunhosa.com // http://teresaabrunhosa.tumblr.com
f. www.facebook.com/teresabrunhosa
COHIBAS
“Hypsters”
“Just for hypsters” is the motto of the new collection by Cohibas, which remains fearless in
risking a bet on very special men and women. The models for autumn/winter 2013-14 are still
easily recognizable, always with an imprint of their own, and increasingly more elaborate in
terms of washes, details, motifs, shines and combined textures.
The characteristic style of the brand is synonymous with courage and creativity, while
reinventing classic models, adapting them to new male and female market trends.
The main innovations for the colder months of the year, in the male line, are the inclusion of
side zippers on some sports models, more textured leathers, models with camouflage
pattern, materials with shine and vintage renovated with washes in the urban and classic
lines. Tacks are still present in some models. In the female line, the Texan forms arise with a
revamped design and various colours with shines and handmade details. The washes of the
boots are amazing and the soles are ultra-lightweight.
Rockabilly, the flagship model of Cohibas, available in all seasons, appears now with a wider
sole and lighter for increased comfort.
CONTACTS
Fábrica de Calçado Evereste, Lda R. Afonso de Albuquerque, 47 3701-909 S. João da Madeira – Portugal t. +351 256201430 e. [email protected] w. www.cohibas.pt
DKODE “Romantic Darkness”
Romance - is inspiring and emotionally charged. This mood combines the romance of the
past together with a sense of theatre and ceremonial grandeur. Seemingly contradictory
elements co-exist, historical silhouettes are combined with new materials and contemporary
details, with costume inspired looks. It’s a modern take on emotional fantasy.
Greys work as the core neutral across the season, providing a base for rich winter deep
darks browns, stormy pastels, ochres and dramatic reds. Naturally oiled leathers have an
easy authenticity in textured, metallic, oxidized or faded finishes.
Baroque details, vintage laces, ceremonial buttons, and cameos welcome you to this fairytale
drama collection where ornate, faded brocades and decadently encrusted garments have a
Renaissance feel.
CONTACTS Fábrica de Calçado Sozé S.A. Longra - 4650-328 Rande Felgueiras- Portugal t. 351255340887 [email protected] | [email protected] w. www.dkode.com f. www.facebook.com/dkode.shoes
FLY LONDON
“Always progressive, never conventional”
The main feature of FLY LONDON has always been its originality! From the design of new
models to combinations of colours and materials, the development of each collection has
always considered this an important factor. In each new collection, FLY LONDON presents
its own interpretation of trends and always offers a wide variety of models, colours and
materials that remain at the forefront of international fashion.
FLY LONDON is modern, eclectic and at the same time timeless, not being connected to one
trend alone, but being based on the individual search for small details, creating a strong and
incomparable identity. FLY LONDON’s goal is to create products in an innovative way, with a
bold design, but at the same time comfortable and with great quality!
With a design of logical contradictions, FLY LONDON gives wings to inspiration and applies
the motto "Always progressive, never conventional", which characterizes it since its
inception.
WOMEN
KIOTO, LOIS, DANNY: surprising wooden platforms, wedged ankle boots or flat heels with
trinkets, unique proposals that support female individuality.
MEN
KANSAS and PORTLAND: Ankle boots and string shoes, with combinations of vintage
leathers, details in the colour and asymmetric shapes, full of indisputable personality.
Don’t Walk, FLY.
CONTACTS
Fortunato O. Frederico & Cª Lda. Rua 24 de Junho, 453 - Penselo 4800 - 128 Guimarães t. +351 253 559 140 e. [email protected] | w. www.flylondon.com
J. REINALDO
J. Reinaldo tries to reinvent the classics, with a
young dynamic colour palette, full of details and
inspiration. The new collection clearly assumes
itself as a timeless icon, where the past merges
with the future, in a new interpretation of current
trends.
The materials selected are the most noble and
luxurious, and all the details are designed for
maximum comfort.
In short, our passion for footwear results in yet
another collection aimed at those who appreciate
top quality coupled with the commitment to
savoire-faire.
CONTACTS
c. Carlos Araújo (Departamento de criação e design) e. [email protected]
NOBRAND
The Crossroads collection by Nobrand
is a remarkable mixture of western
imagination, the more rebellious biker
attitude and a very futuristic design.
Very much influenced by the amazing
and unique Route 66, the collection
embodies a homogeneous vision of
routes that cross amongst themselves,
between the western pop, the biker style
and the cosmic influence of the more
avant-garde design.
The result is a distinctive collection, full
of character, inspired by the arid desert
roads, in scenarios of the American
drive-ins, in bikers’ bars and in the most
remote saloons.
A neo-western suggestion that promises
to warm the coldest hearts in the Winter
of 2013.
CONTACTS Nobrand – Máximo Internacional Lugar da Longra, 4610 – 328 - Rande, Felgueiras t. (+351) 255 340 400 w. www.nobrand.pt
SILVIA REBATTO
The AW'13 collection by Silvia Rebatto somehow suggests an interesting journey through time with
inspiration from the past, but thinking and living in the future. The collection is dominated by boots,
fitted with elastic for easy fit, and medium-sized boots.
ITINERANT PASSION AND THE TRAVELLER
It is within the inspiration theme of intense Winter that the sense of adventure and discovery of new
outdoor spaces is explored. In this lifestyle, we combined modernity with the functional basics, without
neglecting the classic and traditional style.
COLOURS
Slate greys, reddish browns, dark blues, greens, rustic reds and crystal blue.
REFLECTIVE NOSTALGIA
Suggests shiny messages... The evidence that in the new generation there is still nostalgia for the
past heritage, mixed with its present and future, which results in a mixture of a certain folk
environment and a vintage-sport style.
COLOURS
A colour palette that combines shines with the matte shades. Golden and bronze shines combined
with turquoise, lilac and intense browns.
BAROQUE EXPRESSIVITY
We interpret creativity as a form of expressive freedom. We want to follow an urban environment,
where one can feel all of the artistic experience.
COLOURS
Colourful and expressive combinations, including pop colours with shades of violet-blue, shiny metal
combined with baroque motifs.
CONTACTS
e. [email protected] | w. http://silviarebatto.com
CARLOS COUTO
[Bloom Space] “Acthung”
The F/W 13/14 "ACTHUNG" collection
has a strong influence of constructivism,
an artistic stream committed to explaining
how human intelligence develops through
the principle that the development of
intelligence is determined by mutual
actions between the individual and the
environment.
The idea is that man is neither born
intelligent, nor passive to the influence of
the environment. Human-beings respond
to external stimuli acting upon them, to
build and organize their own knowledge,
in a gradually more elaborate manner.
The influence of the individual lies on the
built structures/objects that create
graphical effects of silhouettes, where the
graphic and architectural meet. Some of
the techniques explored in constructivism were the collage and painting of geometric shapes
and this is one of the essences captured in "ACTHUNG".
The male influence is obvious in the collection, both for the colour palette of darker tones -
black, grey, olive green, white and blue -, and for the more structured materials - such as
tweed, leather, fur, nappa and knits.
CONTACTS Rua Sá Da Bandeira nº 594 4º Esq. , 4000 – 431 Porto t. +351 91 353 55 83 e. [email protected]
CARLOS GIL
Carlos Gil presents the Autumn/Winter
2013/2014 collection, inspired by the city
woman, secure in her image, with a strong
character and a look that mixes the boldness
of the '60s with a "Glam revoked" style of the
‘70s. A tailor-cut silhouette where the waist
gains prominence. A wild woman asserting
herself as a modern nonconformist, claiming
her position in a sexist society.
COLOURS AND MATERIALS
Neutral colours, such as white, black and
camel, which blend and give way to the
colours azalea pink and jungle green,
combined with a range of fabrics that transmit
the purest animal style.
CONTACTS
ATELIER Avenida da Liberdade, nº57, 6230-398 Fundão t. (+351) 275 753 610 e. [email protected] // [email protected] w. www.carlos-gil.com
MAFALDA FONSECA
[Bloom Space]
The story of a group of young boys at the
time of transition to the stage of adulthood. A
story that repeats itself every decade, in each
urban area. The transition marked by a
relentless pursuit of a course, of a lifestyle,
with struggles, change of ideas and beliefs
and decisive choices.
The portrait of these groups through the lens
of some photographers, like Gavin Watson.
The duality of right and wrong, certainties and
uncertainties, of normal and unconventional.
The portrait of several young people, in
various means and subcultures. The same
struggle represented by a number of different
pieces, perhaps an offshoot of the melting pot
concept.
Duality is evident in the exploration of forms,
sometimes tailoring-inspired and other times
sportswear-inspired. A frame of mind that is
lived through the colours and materials.
CONTACTS
c. Mafalda Fonseca t. (+351) 918 391 678 e. [email protected]
VICRI “Wonder Men”
We would all like to be "Wonder Men", if only for a day,
especially in this more complex period that we are
experiencing. To this end, VICRI proposes for our
"Wonder Man" a varied range of colours, with emphasis
on orange, green, blue and maroons, dotted with
exquisite applications, inspired by top military brass.
The touches of aged gold take us back to the nostalgia
of wealthier times.
In terms of materials, the collection places special
emphasis to felted wool, flannels, cottons and silks.
With regard to the types of pieces, emphasis is on the
recovery of the full suit with Italian-style silhouette, the
continuation of the pants and blazer, but now with
leather details, and the introduction of the hood and
pierced short coats. The shirts printed with abstract
patterns and the bow-ties and neckties are also a stark presence, result in a full look with
heavy influence on the Rockabilly movement.
As is the case in all collections, discrete extravagance is a permanent concept in the brand’s
lexicon. In the details, in the form of manufacturing the liners and in creating more daring
designs, VICRI is synonymous with boldness.
Always focusing on a niche market, the AW13 collection reaffirms the commitment of the
brand to developing exclusive pieces.
CONTACTS t. (+351) 252 920 996 e. [email protected] w. www.vicri.com
DIANA MATIAS
[Bloom Space]
The collection by Diana Matias reflects the influence of the Padaung tribe, with rigid
accessories in the ankle and neck area, covering fragile elements. Copper rings hide the
anatomy, becoming part of the body itself.
The full opacity is contrasted by the uncovered areas and the long, straight and oversized
vertical layers superimpose the lightness of the silhouette. The sequence of precise lines,
detected in lined jackets, maintains the fluidity of the tricot knits, intensifying the image.
COLOURS
Palette of blacks, white and beige with pointers in ochre.
CONTACTS t. +351 919 271 484 e. [email protected] w. www.dianamatias.com
LION OF PORCHES
LION
This season, LION OF PORCHES presents its most characteristic line. The Lion line, with a
strong Preppy inspiration through elements of a heraldic and collegial nature, results in a
distinct and exquisite collection. Plaid, tartan, tweed, wools, cashmeres and refined badges
are part of this line. The colours that stand out are navy blue, collegial green and yellow with
red details.
CITY
The City line, while maintaining the brand’s identity, presents more elegant and versatile
pieces with elements of British inspiration, reinvented through the use of Moroccan silks and
alpacas in sophisticated colours. The women’s collection is more sensual and feminine,
while the men’s shows off a relaxed charm.
KIDS
The brand introduces the Kids collection for Autumn/Winter, for the first time, with proposals
for girls and boys. This collection combines flagship pieces of the brand, of British inspiration
and exquisite in terms of detail and the materials used – trench coats, caban coats - with
more comfortable and laid back pieces that kids love so much - sweatshirts, polo shirts and
denims - so as to complete the casual-chic look. Raw, camel, yellow, collegial green and
navy blue are the predominant colours, strengthening the collegial and heritage spirit of the
collection.
CONTACTS Têxtil Cães de Pedra, S.A. Apartado 235, 4801-911 Guimarães, Portugal t. +351 253439630 fax. +351 253511923 w. www.lionofporches.com
FELIPE OLIVEIRA BAPTISTA
“INQUIETUDE”
Shape and structure have always been key elements of Felipe Oliveira Baptista's work. this
season they are at the core of the creative and design process.
the initial impulse was to create shapes that find a balance between something extremely
powerful and effortlessly pure.
in the beginning of the season Felipe found himself going through his archives while
preparing an exhibition in MUDE (museum of fashion and design of Lisbon) it will open this
coming October. (a preview of this same exhibition will be presented at this year’s edition of
FIAMH (festival des arts de la mode d'hyères). an exhibition that aims to dissect the
creative process and goes through the dichotomies presented in felipe's work.
This process found Felipe exploring the influence of the Portuguese aesthetic in his work: a
certain sense of Portuguese sartorialism that blends silent austerity and a luminous
sensuality.
The work of Helena Almeida, Miguel Gomes (his film tabu) and Fernando Pessoa are
strong references and influences here. Rooted in a rigorous classicism his blunt shapes
aim to a timeless modernity.
In September 2013 Felipe was the president of the jury of the PV awards (premiere vision).
This led him to work with the 3 award winners: nikke & jacytex, for some of the fabrics
present in this collection.
Felipe also worked with his traditional textile partners to develop some exclusive fabrics.
Fabrics
Fabric is a key element to this collection. Some of this extremely innovative materials
directed, dictated even shape.
Hybrids: a virgin wool weaved to drape like an organza, a silk & nylon satin, a double
woven of nylon and lurex and leather and suede bounded with milano jersey.
Classics: wool gabardine, wool crepe, wool toile, silk crepe and georgette.
Prints
a great doze of inquietude was achieved through print. Were a
blend of wild animals were morphed into an abstract neo
camouflage: wolfs, eagles, coyotes and howls all come together in
this intriguing paintings.
Shapes
Bold graphic & pure shapes were rooted in classic elements of men tailoring where
pads are left hanging from the shoulders, a military trench coat that is decomposed
&reconstructed in hybrid leather/jersey pieces, or the charm of an xxl sweatshirt combined
with a linear sharp and longer A line skirts and dresses.
Colours
A base of black, charcoal grey, deep navy, petrol blue, illuminated by a pink flamingo, pale
grey and beige.
CONTACTS
Thomas Klein Pr Director Rmo London | Paris 4-6 Rue de Seze 75009 Paris France T + 33 (1) 44 77 93 60 F + 33 (1) 44 77 93 70 M + 33 (6) 77 10 34 05 http://rmo-comms.com/
JOÃO MELO COSTA
[Bloom Space] “Mo(u)rning”
The "Mo(u)rning" collection is surrounded by an atmosphere of nostalgic fishing areas. The
nets that connect us preclude forgetfulness. The fatal distance that separates us is proven to
be infinite. It's easy to feel lost, stuck in a past that is too present, in the hope of finding
something in it that makes us put an end to how much we miss it.
CONTACTS e. [email protected]
DIELMAR
A sexy robust look is the focal
point for our man, who adopts
the bohemian and creative
spirit of a modern traveller. A
cosmopolitan playboy who
recovers and boasts traditional
elements, in a somewhat
Downtown Abbey style, where
the terms vintage and retro
are recurrent.
MATERIALS
Emphasis on all fabrics that
look aged and worn: washed
and cooked wool, plain or
blended, with unprecedented
dyes, jerseys, tweeds and
nattes. Shetlands and
patterned velvets help create a
vintage and retro-chique look.
The wool is mixed with
cashmere, for a semi-shine
effect or in super 130's and super 150's versions, in suits of traditional manufacture.
Corduroy takes the stand with 8, 12 and 14 cannulas and with a used and washed
look. Brushed and worn surfaces are used to create a warm and cosy look, in pieces
with life and history.
Return to the old world of traditional tartan plaid and English patterns. Flannel and
saxony finishing are fundamental to reaffirm a trend where the old looks tend to have
more texture and authenticity. Leather and suede become essential
to create a look in terms of detail.
ACCESSORIES
The vest assumes a central role as an essential accessory to
rebuilding the more dandy side of the silhouette. Motifs, colours,
materials and textures blend with each other. The knit accessories stand out
in ties and chest scarves.
COLOURS
The overall colour palette is made from a range of neutral and cooler shades and
another one of warm, natural shades, creating a traditional autumn ambiance, where
the colours of the fruits and berries warm up the cooler shades of slate and mist grey.
Navy blue, night blue and peacock blue, forest green and olive green and ancient
browns are blended in with shades of pumpkin and orange, rust and copper, mustard
and wild berries.
CONTACTS
Sociedade Industrial de Confeções DIELMAR, SA Largo do Chafariz Velho - Ap. 8, 6006-909 – Alcains, Portugal
c.Tó Simões, Designer de Moda t. (+351) 272 900 900 m. (+351) 927 347 677 fax. (+351) 272 906 679 w. www.dielmar.pt
KLAR
[Bloom Space] FEATURES OF THE COLLECTION Resistance, robustness and adaptability.
COLOURS
Blue, white, red and black.
CONTACTS Palácio das Artes Largo de São Domingos, 16-22, 4050-545 Porto, Portugal e. [email protected] w. http://k-l-a-r.com/
LUÍS ONOFRE
“Black is Back”
Black is back... Black is the main trend for Luis Onofre’s winter. The colour unfolds in
various shades as a result of a combination of materials (suede, boxcalf, croco and leather)
and aligns with the metal applications that punctuate the collection - present in boots, the
supporting actors of the season, and also in ankle boots, stilettos, galoshes and sandals.
In addition to black, brown tones arise in a lighter shade than in previous seasons and mix
with pearly white and light honey. In honour of the horse-riding universe, leather marks its
presence in several models of boots, reinforcing a casualness that contrasts with the
sophistication of the metallic details, applied to the upper part of the boots, the heels and the
toe caps.
To complement the shades of winter, there are also proposals in moss green, burgundy,
violet and forest green. The flat or 16cm high heels also arise in transparent plexiglass, with
a built-in metal structure, creating the illusion that the heels float.
The handbags grow in size and reach unexpected dimensions. Mostly rigid, as a result of
their metal structure, they combine different shades and materials.
CONTACTS
Rua da Indústria, lote 2, nº 77 Lugar da Póvoa, Travanca 3720 – 251 Oliveira de Azemeis t. +351 256 66 12 21 e. [email protected] w. www.luisonofre.com