june mazama bulletin

The Mazamas promotes mountaineering through education, climbing, hiking, fellowship, safety and the protection of mountain environments.

nesika klatawa sahale—we climb highmazama bulletin

June 2013 • Vol. 95 • No. 5

climb.hike.explore.

by Eric Sorenson; Photos: Jeff Wenger

On May 15, the seasonal closure of the Frog Springs golden eagle territory, which encompasses all of the established climbing at Trout

Creek, was lifted. The area will remain open to climbing without restriction until Jan. 15, 2014. Trout Creek is a world-class crack climbing venue in the lower Deschutes River canyon near Madras, Ore. Last year the BLM, in cooperation with local climbers and climbing advocacy groups, finished a new climbing and trail management plan for the territory, with a goal of protecting golden eagle nesting habitat during nesting season while preserving as much climbing and other

recreation access as possible. Included in the plan is construction of several new sections of trail to access the Cool Wall independently of the Main Wall, facilitating partial closures in the event that golden eagles nest in one of the sites within the climbing area. This means that when the eagles are nesting on the Cool Wall, the Main Wall could be opened to climbing and vice versa, which was a key element to the management plan proposed by climbing advocacy groups and adopted by the BLM. The entire NEPA management plan and associated documents are available to the public at the following URL: http://www.blm.gov/or/districts/prineville/plans/nepa-details.php?id=2065

Comprehensive details regarding the climbing at Trout Creek are available through Jeff Wenger’s excellent guidebook: Trout Creek Climbing, available in print at Redpoint Climber’s Supply in Terrebonne and elsewhere, as well as online at: http://www.lulu.com/us/en/shop/jeff-wenger/2010-trout-creek-guide-download/ebook/product-20619665.html

On Jan. 15, 2014, the crag will again be closed to allow the eagles unimpeded nest selection and nesting until at least May 15 of that year. At that point, the nesting status of the eagles will be reviewed and some or all of the territory will be opened to climbing.

PGE, in partnership with the BLM, has

been monitoring golden eagle activity in the territory for many years, and in December of 2012 PGE captured and tagged a golden eagle with a satellite transmitter, enabling detailed observations of range and location to supplement other methods used to monitor the territory. Although the pair that occupies this territory shows continued activity, especially on the west side of the river in the Warm Springs Indian Reservation, successful nesting has again not occurred. The specifics of this are being compiled by PGE and BLM biologists and are currently not available. It has been shared by the BLM that for the second year since the inception of the seasonal closure, observed climber compliance

has been 100 percent, showing our dedication as a user group to responsible use of a public resource and the protection of golden eagle habitat. This is a great victory for climbers and a great example of cooperative management of a climbing area between land managers and climbers that can be modeled in other areas experiencing seasonal raptor closures. The BLM hopes to use climbers to assist in monitoring activity in the territory through July, and a spreadsheet

is being developed to allow climbers who use the area to quickly add data and observations after their visit. Current details regarding Trout Creek climbing and the aforementioned monitoring efforts can be found at the Friends of Trout Creek Facebook page at: https://www.facebook.com/FriendsofTroutCreek.

Trout Creek Access

“... for the second year since the inception of the seasonal closure, observed climber compliance has been 100 percent, showing our dedication as a user group to responsible use of a public resource and the protection of golden eagle habitat.

Our class season is drawing to a close, and before anything else I want to thank all of our dedicated volunteers,

instructors, assistants, committee members and our students for bringing us through yet another successful year of mountaineering education at the Mazamas. With your help we taught mountaineering skills to more than 500 people this winter through BCEP, ICS, AR, ASI, MFA, Nordic, Ski Mountaineering, Expedition and Skill-Builder Classes. The Mazamas continues to offer the largest centralized comprehensive mountaineering training programs in North America. Not only that, through the dedication of some 600 volunteers giving more than 90,000 hours of volunteer time annually, we’re able to offer these programs at a very low cost.

Last week, our friend, climb leader, ski mountaineer and expedition leader Ryan Christie stopped in to the MMC and asked me how things were going. I hadn’t seen Ryan since our Annual Celebration in November, and started talking about the changes we’ve made since then and the exciting projects we’re working on to pursue our strategic plan. I realized after talking a blue-streak for nearly 30 minutes that in just six months we’ve had some huge wins and are making great progress toward pursuing our strategic plan.

We’ve increased our staff to five people, initiated capital improvement projects and increased the number of classes we offer. Additionally, Sarah Bradham has made huge strides towards improving the quality of our Mazama Bulletin, Kati Mayfield has nearly completed her survey of our current volunteer management processes and Adam Baylor has increased our involvement with the Outdoor Alliance, the Access Fund, the American Alpine Club and the Wilderness Society.

One of the first questions I get when describing these changes is, “How are we affording this?” In May, we completed our comprehensive budget reforecast for this fiscal year. Preparing the reforecast relies on huge support from the Financial Affairs Committee and all 27 of our active committee chairs. Special thanks go to Chris Simmons and his team on FAC for assembling this budget reforecast. We started the year with a planned budget deficit of $34,000 in accordance with the Volunteer Management Plan that Executive Council approved a little more than a year ago. After a month of number crunching we

determined that our overall operating budget is on track with a positive variance of 2 percent overall.

Since the beginning of our fiscal year (Oct. 1, 2013) we have chosen to pursue several projects that we knew would affect our operating budget. I want to generally explain how we were able to keep the budget on track with all of these changes. The biggest change was a modification to our staff structure represented by splitting the previous Member Services Position into three distinct part-time roles. As described in my reports in the last few Bulletins, our staff at the Mazama Mountaineering Center has shifted from three full-time positions to two full-time positions and three part-time positions. (For the accountants we went from 3 FTE to 4 FTE).

The total additional cost of the staff changes for this fiscal year is approximately $20,000. The reason it’s “only” $20,000 is partially because the changes happened a third of the way through the year and also because one of the people we brought onto staff was already a Mazama contractor. We were able to use the budgeted line item for these contract services to help pay for one of the new staff positions. One of the other significant changes was our choice to change insurance brokers and start working with Diane Girard at Durham & Bates Insurance. Diane re-sourced both our primary and excess liability policies and saved us nearly $17,000 this fiscal year alone. Next year the savings will be closer to $25,000 for the same rates of coverage! In essence we used the insurance savings to afford an increase in staff capacity.

The staff changes are intentionally dedicated to specific areas of development (Program Capacity, Community Engagement and Value of Membership) called for in our 5-year Strategic Plan. Our strategic plan lays the foundation for the Mazamas we dream of and gives us the structure and tools we’ll need to achieve that dream.

By planning and investing in change today, we will create the Mazamas of tomorrow. Join me, as we launch into a summer of fun in the mountains, in building our future and continuing to create lifetimes of enjoying and protecting the mountains.

Lee DavisExecutive Director

Executive Director’s ReportLaunching into Summer and the Future of Mazamas

Upcoming Events & ClassesE-BCEP Registration is now open!The first class is on June 19. Learn more at www.mazamas.org.

Youth Climb Skill-BuilderBegins on July 11. See page 27 for more information.

Rock ReviewJuly 17 at the MMC.

Sport Climbing Essentials Skill-BuilderBegins on July 22.

ICS Application AvailableStarting Aug. 1.

Intermediate Snow Skill-BuilderLectures Aug. 5 & 8; Field Session Aug. 10 & 11.

ICS Info NightAug. 6 at the MMC.

MFA RecertGet a jump on your recertification needs for the 13/14 climb season! Aug. 26 & 28.

Lodge Work PartySep. 20–22.

Annual MeetingOct. 1 at the MMC.

Youth Climb Skill-BuilderBegins on July 11. See page 6 for more information.

June 2013—3

UpcomingSaturday, June 1: Mazama Lodge Spring

Workday—We’ve had another great winter and spring at the Mazama Lodge and we’re getting ready to spruce up the place for the summer. Join the Mazama Friends of the Lodge for a day of work and cheer. To sign up email [email protected].

Tuesday, June 4: Publications Committee Meeting—The Publications Committee is seeking additional members to help with our publications—the Mazama Annual, Bulletin, Mazama Blog and e-newsletter. Candidates should be people who enjoy our publications and want to see them expand in interest and scope! Join our first Tuesday of the month meeting or contact Barry Maletzky at [email protected] if interested.

Thursday, June 13: First Aid Committee—The Mazama First Aid Committee is seeking new members. If you have a medical or mountain medicine background, have taken MFA and/or are just interested in supporting this important committee, join us on Thursday, June 13 at 7 p.m.. Contact Kati Mayfield, volunteer manager, for more information.

June 11, 13, 18, 20: Mazama Youth Climb Camp—Share your love of climbing with kids! The Mazamas is running its first Youth Climb Camp and needs ICS grads, AR grads and climb leaders to help out. You’ll be teaching kids to belay, rappel and enjoy the sport of climbing. Contact Dan Leone, [email protected], to get involved.

June 15: Trail Tending on Kings Mountain—Join the Mazamas and Trail Keepers of Oregon trail crews in clearing the tangle of winter growth that threatens to bury this popular hiking trail. We need

10 people to help with this one-day event, contact Rick Pope, [email protected], to sign up.

Wednesday, June 12: Join in the Family Fun—Join a discussion about ways to expand family programming at the Mazamas. We’ll be meeting at Hopworks Urban Brewery (HUB) in SE Portland at 6 p.m., kids are welcome. Email [email protected] if you’d like to come, and see our article on page 21 for more information about what we’re up to.

Ongoing: Web Gurus—Help the Mazama Trail Trips Committee post its monthly hike schedule! Volunteers should be comfortable with the Windows operating system, internet browsers and basic HTML. Regular attendance at TTC meetings not required, though volunteers will need to receive training and communicate regularly with the Trail Trips Committee to update the schedule. Contact TTC Chair, Jim Selby, [email protected]

Ongoing: AYM Hike Leader or Committee Member—Are you an adventurous young Mazama? Do you like to hike, camp and be merry? The Adventurous Young Mazamas are looking for new members to join their ranks! Come on a hike to learn what they’re all about, check out the hike schedule at: http://www.mazamas.org/your/adventure/starts-here/C74/ or contact Chair Paul Kallmann, [email protected], for more information about the committee.

Ongoing: Volunteer Photographers—Help parks in Washington monitor glacier activity! PCC Professor Frank Granshaw is training climbers to do panoramic photography and data gathering to begin modeling the activity of Washington’s Blue,

Nisqually and Emmons glaciers. Contact Frank at [email protected] of you’re interested in participating.

Summer Volunteer OpportunitiesJuly 19-21 and Aug. 23–25: Lead a

Youth Climb—Climb Leaders: shake things up this summer with a youth climb! Mazama partner, Northwest Youth Corps, would like to offer two climbs to youth (ages 16–19) participating in their summer programs. Team up with a climb partner to share the Mazama experience with these kids. Contact Kati Mayfield, [email protected] if interested.

July 29–Aug. 2 and Aug. 5–9: Adventure WILD Day Camp instructors— Adventure WILD, a benefit for Friends of Outdoor School, is holding two weeks of summer camp out of the MMC. They are looking for volunteers to put together three hours of fun programming for kids ages 4-11. Take the kids through orienteering/navigation, Leave No Trace, scavenger hunts, or a topic of your choice. Contact Kati Mayfield if you’d like to participate, [email protected].

Sunday, Aug. 18: Lead a Family Hike at Mirror Lake Trailhead—Mazama families will be enjoying an overnight at the Mazama Lodge Sunday, Aug. 18–Monday, Aug. 19, and would like to do a short hike before heading down to the lodge for dinner and campfire. Hike Leaders—bring your family and lead our hike! Contact Bob Murphy, [email protected] for details.

by Kati Mayfield • Volunteer Manager • [email protected]

4 —Mazama Bulletin

Contact UsMazama Mountaineering Center527 SE 43rd Avenue, Portland, OR 97215Phone: 503-227-2345 Email: [email protected]: Mon.–Thu. 11 a.m–7 p.m. Friday 10 a.m.–2 p.m.

Mazama Lodge30500 West Leg Road, Government Camp, OR 97028Phone: 503-272-9214 Email: [email protected]: Thu. noon—Mon. noon

MAZAMA (USPS 334-780)Editor: Sarah Bradham ([email protected]). Advertising ([email protected]). Subscription price $15 per year. Bulletin material may be emailed to the editor. Paper submissions will be accepted only by prior arrangement with the Bulletin’s editor. All material for printing is due by noon on the 14th of the preceding month. If the 14th falls on a weekend, the deadline is the preceding Friday.

Periodicals postage paid at Portland, OR. POSTMASTER: Send address changes to MAZAMAS, 527 SE 43rd Ave., Portland, OR 97215.

The Executive Council meets at 6:30 p.m. on the second Tuesday of each month. Meetings are open to members. The Mazamas is a 501(c)(3) Oregon nonprofit corporation organized on the summit of Mt. Hood in 1894. The Mazama Bulletin is printed on recycled paper with 70 percent post-consumer content. The Mazamas is an equal opportunity provider.

Mazama StaffLee Davis—Executive Director ([email protected])

Kati Mayfield—Volunteer Manager ([email protected])

Adam Baylor—Member Services and Operations Manager ([email protected])

Sarah Bradham—Marketing & Publications Manager ([email protected])

Jamie Anderson—Membership Secretary ([email protected])

Rick Craycraft—MMC Facility Manager ([email protected])

Charles Barker—Mazama Lodge Manager ([email protected])

Max Rupert—Mazama Lodge Caretaker ([email protected])

Adventure

WILD summer

day camps

at the MMC

Adventure WILD, a benefit for Friends of Outdoor School, will run two weeks of their

summer camps out of the MMC, and we would love

to have Mazamas kids at this camp!

Camp is open to kids ages 4–11

Cost of registration—$125 for half-days, $250 for full days. Adventure WILD is offering a

$25 registration discount to Mazamas members—use the code “Mazamas2013” at checkout.

For more details and to register, check out their website— www.adventurewild.org.

Aug. 5–9

July 29–Aug. 2

June 2013—5

June 1 is our spring work party starting at 9 a.m. and finishing at 4 p.m. Enjoy a wonderful lunch and a free night’s stay at a later date and enjoy getting our lodge ready for a busy summer.

Starting Thursday, June 13, the lodge is open seven days a week through Labor Day weekend. Our early snow melt (compared to the last few summers) makes some of your favorite hiking trails open almost a month earlier than previous summers. Starting May 31, the lower gate will be open on Westleg Road. Parking is available at the lodge throughout the summer. This is a great place to rendezvous for hikes. The NW Forest Pass is not required when parking at Mazama Lodge or Timberline Lodge.

Stop by for breakfast, lunch or dinner this summer. We encourage members and guests to visit us on your way to your favorite

hiking trail or camping spot. Lunches in the summer are served from 12:30-1:30 and dinner is served from 6–7 p.m. If you are in a party of four or fewer you don’t need to call, just stop in and enjoy our great meals. Our menu prices are still the same—breakfasts and lunches are $8.40 and dinner is $12.60. Our evening meals will be posted online but we will always have vegetarian options and, with advance notice, gluten-free and vegan options. If you’re a red meat fan, join us Sunday nights for our grilled flank steak!

The Badger Creek Chuck Wagon weekend is coming up on July 19 and 20. This is a great way to explore one of Mt. Hood’s least-visited wilderness areas, carry just a day pack and have all your meals prepared. Please see related article about Badger Creek.

News & NotesManager: Charles Barker; Caretaker: Max Rupert, 503-272-9214 [email protected]

Badger Creek Chuckwagon WeekendFriday, July 19–Sunday, July 21Join your Mazama leaders Mitch, Rick, David and Greg for a wonderful weekend in the Badger Creek Wilderness. Enjoy spectacular views from the eastern foothills of Mt. Hood on this hike that includes natural rock gardens, wildflowers, cliff-edged viewpoints and an enchanting hike along Badger Creek with old growth, green-pooled cascades and oak-fringed cliffs. Participation is limited. If you have additional questions, email Rick Amodeo at [email protected]. If you would like to signup, go to the Mazama Lodge webpage and click on the Badger Creek signup. Link at http://www.mazamas.org/your/adventure/starts-here/C556/

Event ItineraryWe’ll start by gathering at the Mazama Lodge on Friday night for a light meal and a relaxing evening getting to know each other and organize into two hiking groups—level A (easy to moderate) and level C (moderate to strenuous). After a night in the lodge and Saturday morning breakfast, we will be transported to two different trailheads to start our hikes. Both groups will hike up to a saddle near the Flag Point Lookout, where the lodge chuckwagon will meet us with our gear (tents, sleeping bags, etc.) so we can set up our camp. We will get a tour of the fire lookout led by a Mt. Hood National Forest ranger—this is one of only three manned lookouts in the Mt. Hood National Forest. The lodge will prepare our chuckwagon-style dinner and also breakfast on Sunday morning at our campsite. On Sunday, the groups will pack up the gear and head out in opposite directions, to be picked up at the TH for transport back to the Mazama Lodge, where you will have some happy hour appetizers waiting before you head home.

CostFood and Lodging: $80 (members) and $106 (non-members). Food includes: two breakfasts, two dinners and two bag lunches.

Shared Transportation (lodge bus and gear shuttle van): $46 per person.

Trail Fee: $2 a day (members) and $4 a day (non-members).

Total Cost: $130 (members) and $160 (non-members).Hikers enjoying last year’s Badger Creek Chuckwagon Weekend. Photos: Peter Meyer

Feb. 8–22, 2014

EMBARKSafaris • Treks • Expeditions

Learn more: [email protected]

Come trekking with us in Patagonia!

AYM Activities

by Paul Kallman

The Adventurous Young Mazamas are seeking activity leaders to lead hikes, rambles, backpacking trips, car camping trips and other fun activities geared toward those in their 20s, 30s and early 40s. Leading activities is a lot of fun—you meet great people, you choose where and when you want to hike, and you help the club in the process. Plus, volunteering for the Mazamas looks great on your climb card resumes! To be a hike leader, you just need to have (or be in the process of obtaining) basic first aid, be an active Mazama member, and have a basic knowledge of what AYM is and who the Mazamas are. You will have to complete a provisional hike with a current hike leader. If you’re interested, e-mail [email protected] and we’ll get you set up.

AYM has a lot of great activities this summer. Check our website for our most up-to-date schedule. Here are a few of the many events we are offering:

Saturday, June 08—Rock Lakes Loop

Seven lakes, meadows, and dramatic views await on this Wilderness loop. We’ll start at Hideaway Lake and work up to the beautiful Rock Lakes area in the new Roaring River Wilderness. Plan on almost any kind of conditions—there might be some snow and/or bugs. Wilderness area; trip will be capped at 12 people. Plan

on a long day—we will be back to Portland around 7 p.m. 12.6-mile loop, 2,000 feet elevation gain. Drive: 150 miles. Meet at Gateway Transit Center, 8 a.m. Leader: Paul Gerald.

Saturday, June 29—Adventure Hike: Clackamas Falls

Looking for an adventure? You’d be hard-pressed to find a better one than this bushwhack/trek to a series of waterfalls on the South Fork Clackamas River. We’ll bushwhack down into the canyon to a series of old roads, tunnels and bridges that link three large waterfalls. Bring a camera, trekking poles, rainpants and a good attitude! The scenery is incredible but the trek is rough—expect steep hillsides, ticks and sketchy bridges. Advance signup required! Hike: 3 miles, 800 feet elevation gain (remember, this is mostly a bushwhack!). Drive: 76 miles. Meet at Gateway Transit Center, 9:30 a.m. Leader: Matt Reeder.

Friday–Monday, Aug. 30–Sep 2, Camping/Hiking—Eagle Cap Wilderness

An AYM tradition returns! We’ll spend Labor Day weekend camping in Wallowa Lake State Park. We’ll hike by day and hang out by night. Plan on a full holiday weekend of hikes, explorations, friendship, pancakes and mini-golf. Sign up early to ensure your spot! Leaders: Matt Reeder and Karl Langenwalter.

The Adventurous Young Mazamas leads activities year round targeted those in their 20s, 30s, early 40s, and of course anyone who is “Young at Heart.” All of our activities are open to all regardless of age.

Columbia Sportswear (911 SW Broadway) 20%

Eddie Bauer (online and all locations) 40% off First Ascent Line with their Pro Discount card (see our website)

Climb Max (628 NE Broadway) 10%; climb leaders 15%

Icebreaker (1109 W Burnside) 10% non-sale items only

Mountain Hardwear (722 SW Taylor) 15%

The Mountain Shop (1510 NE 37th) 10%; 15% for climb leaders and students currently enrolled in classes; 30% on rentals

Mountaineers Books (www.mountaineersbooks.org use code MZORE) 20%

Next Adventure (SE Grand and Stark) 10%

Oregon Mountain Community (NE 29th and Sandy) 10% non-sale items only

Portland Rock Gym (21 NE 12th) 10% off regularly priced memberships

Prana Portland (635 NW 23rd Ave.) 15% off all regularly priced items

Redpoint Climbers Supply (Terrebonne, OR) 10%

U.S. Outdoor Store (219 SW Broadway) 10%

Membership Benefits

June 2013—7

Far left: Shirley Chalupa topping out on pitch 2 of Orange Chandeliers on Ao Nang Tower in Thailand (Jan 2013). Photo: Radek Chalupa.

Above: Joan Wallace on rappel. Old Chute of Mt. Hood, May 9, 2013. Photo: Amy Mendenhall.

Left: Paul Johnson climbing the Old Chute on Mt. Hood, April 1, 2013. Photo: Amy Mendenhall.

June 2013—9

&PHYSICAL THERAPY

TRAINING STUDIO

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Nominating Committee Seeks Candidatesby Amad Doratotaj, Chair

The Nominating Committee isn’t just looking for candidates for Executive Council—we are also seeking candidates for the committee itself!

In addition to gaining permanent standing, as a result of the new bylaws approved by members last October, the Nominating Committee has undergone one other structural change: going forward, Mazama members will directly elect the committee members, as opposed to having them appointed by the Executive Council.

The Nominating Committee will have three positions opening in October 2013, and we are seeking members that have good personal communications skills and a broadbased of the Mazamas organization. Having some familiarity with members’ skills and experience within Mazama committees and activities are a definite plus.

The Nominating Committee’s operational duties include: nominating candidates for Executive Council, measuring and evaluating skills within the present Executive Council, training and mentoring future potential Executive Council candidates, and administering the annual election process.

To qualify to run on the ballot for Nominating Committee, one need ONLY be a member in good standing, and declare to me that you are a candidate. The term on the committee is for three years, with three positions turning over each year. If you are interested, or simply have questions and want to discuss it, please contact me at chair [email protected] or 503-616-8589.

Mt. Hood, May 9—Mazamas team on the Hogsback. Photo: Amy Mendenhall


Classic Old-Timers25 years of membership or longer.

by Billie Goodwin

Friday, July 5 —You are invited to Dick and Jane Miller’s home for our annual potluck picnic. The park-like setting on Cooper Mountain is so beautiful and includes a chairlift complete with ski buffs—this really adds to the atmosphere of the mountain. If you’ve never attended one of the picnics, plan to come this year and bring a friend or two. Bring a food of your choice—salads, main dish or dessert—to share with others. Bring your own plate, silverware and beverage. Plan to arrive at 2 p.m. so we can eat at 2:30 p.m. Bring a favorite yard game if you have one and plan to visit with new and old friends.

Their home is at 17745 SW Cooper Mt. Lane, Beaverton. Coming from the east, take Hwy. 26 to Hwy. 217. Stay on 217 until you see the Scholls Ferry exit, across from Washington Square. Take a right on Scholls Ferry and go west until you come to SW 175th; turn right. Go about ¾ mile to Cooper Mt. Lane on the left. This is on a curve and may be hard to see. Keep left on the one-lane road until you come to their long driveway. Dick has this last part marked with Miller signs and it is very easy to find. If you should find yourself unsure of where you need to go, call Billie on her cell phone: 509-499-6963, or Dick and Jane at 503-509-3598. Go mark your calendars now! We’ll see you there.

June 13—Hike in the Bonneville Dam area. First we will cross the Bridge of the Gods and go west a couple of miles to one of the first settlements along the Columbia River. In 1858 they used Sternwheel river boats to fish for salmon here. Then we’ll go back to Bonneville and see the large sturgeon in a pond of their own. Along the way we’ll see fingerling salmon and salmon as big as 25 pounds. Bring a sack lunch to eat at one of the numerous picnic tables. Meet at the MMC at 9 a.m. or call the leader about another meeting spot along the way. Leader: Billie Goodwin, 503-254-6121, or 509-499-6963.

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June 2013—11

Summer SaleJune 7-9, 2013

Special Mazama Pre-Sale June 6, 7-9 pm30% off clothing

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Mazama role: Climb Leader

Residence: Washougal, Washington

Hometown: I grew up in Kenai, Alaska, and learned to hike and ski in junior high school. In university I learned to climb in the mountains near Anchorage.

When and how did you become involved with the Mazamas? Joined in 1981. I was new to the Portland area and was looking for people to climb with. I took ICS and AR and became a climb leader in 1989.

What are your favorite climbs/hikes? For Mazama climbs, I try to lead Castle, Pinnacle and Unicorn every year for new BCEP grads. Olympus, Baker and Shuksan are also my favorite leads for the wonderful scenery. Among my private climbs: the East Face of Whitney, West Ridge of Forbidden Peak and Exum Ridge on the Grand Teton are some of the best alpine climbs I’ve done.

What climbs/hikes are you most looking forward to this year? I’m leading several exploratory climbs in areas of the Washington Cascades that I have never been to before so looking forward to something new. I’ve also been turned around several times on the West Ridge of Mt. Stuart and will try again this year.

Best climbing memory: Bivying at the rim of Yosemite Valley after climbing the Royal Arches route and watching the sunset on Half Dome. Also, spending a week in the Wrangell-St. Elias Range of Alaska climbing several

unnamed peaks. We flew in by ski plane and there were no other people within a 50-mile radius, so it was a true wilderness adventure.

Future climbing goals? More alpine rock in the Sierras and finish climbing all the California 14"ers. Maybe another Alaska expedition.

Favorite piece of gear you won’t leave home without: I do a lot of mountain photography, so my Nikon camera goes just about everywhere.

Guiding principal/philosophy: Like most Mazama climb leaders, safety first, having fun and hopefully achieving the summit. I like to use every climb as a learning experience, both for team members and myself.

Favorite leader treat? Oatmeal chocolate chip cookies

Most influential books: How We Decide by Jonah Lehrer and 7 Habits of Highly Effective People by Steven Covey

Favorite quote: “How you do anything is how you do everything”

Favorite music/musician: Mark Knopfler

Favorite movie: Apollo 13 (even engineers can save the day occasionally).

Favorite restaurant: Syun Izakaya in Hillsboro (Japanese).

Favorite websites: Google news, Japan Times, Cold Thistle.

Words that best describe you: Organized, quiet, good sense of humor.

Person(s) most interested in meeting: Jeff Lowe and Ansel Adams

Favorite vacation spot: I travel to Japan a couple times a year to visit friends, relatives and climb. Last year, I finally completed the last 11 climbs on my list of 100 Japanese peaks.

When you aren’t on the mountain, where are people likely to find you? Riding my

bike, at the rock gym or in the garden.

Hobbies other than hiking/climbing: Road and mountain biking, sea kayaking, telemark skiing, photography, organic vegetable gardening and Japanese language studies.

Occupation: I retired two years ago after a 33-year engineering career at Intel making computer chips. Now I do a little consulting and a lot of volunteering (including working in the MMC office).

Doug WilsonGet to know

June 2013—13

by John Rettig, Co-chair, Conservation Committee

Have you ever wondered why we put so much emphasis on urban livability

in Portland? Or why we have an Urban Growth Boundary surrounding Portland and other cities in Oregon? Or why we seem to be nationwide leaders for our mass transit system? These weren’t all things that just evolved slowly on their own, or that university academics dreamt up or that we inherited from other parts of the country. It was started by some very driven Oregonians as a grassroots effort, and it ended up as a near revolution. It fundamentally challenged the status quo for the way we went about doing our land-use planning.

That revolution was called Oregon Senate Bill 100, and this May marked its 40th anniversary. At times we’ve probably taken for granted some of the things that its legacy has left us, but it is worth another look at the foresight our legislators and governor had in 1973—and what may have been had it not passed.

For the most part, our urban areas are condensed within growth boundaries that contain sprawl and prevent spillover into the rural environs. Our farmland is protected for agricultural use. We have processes for both protecting rural land from coming into the urban growth boundaries and processes that ensure the land that is slated to come in to the boundaries is properly urbanized and provided with appropriate services and isn’t allowed to develop at low density and contribute to sprawl. Urban transportation systems are planned to mirror the land-use needs and trends, and there is more emphasis on mass transit. We have a statewide set of goals and guidelines that city and county comprehensive plans and ordinances must follow, and we have a land-use appeal system in place to ensure uniformity across jurisdictions. Most importantly, citizen involvement gets a very high priority and is first on the list. The entire list of goals and guidelines, each backed up with very specific requirements implemented in code, looks like:

1. Citizen Involvement2. Land-Use Planning3. Agricultural Lands4. Forest Lands5. Open Spaces, Scenic and Historic Areas, and Natural

Resources6. Air, Water and Land Resources Quality7. Areas Subject to Natural Disasters and Hazards8. Recreation Needs9. Economy of the State10. Housing11. Public Facilities and Services

12. Transportation13. Energy14. Urbanization15. Willamette Greenway16. Estuarine Resources17. Coastal Shorelands18. Beaches and Dunes19. Ocean ResourcesIt wasn’t always that way for planning in Oregon. Prior to SB

100’s passage, Oregon’s rural areas were being threatened with suburban sprawl, the outcome of which could have led to Portland looking like most any other large metropolitan area such as Houston, Atlanta or Phoenix. Gov. Tom McCall forewarned of this when he urged passage of the bill with these words:

“There is a shameless threat to our environment and to the whole quality of life—unfettered despoiling of the land. Sagebrush subdivisions, coastal condomania and the ravenous rampage of suburbia in the Willamette Valley all threaten to mock Oregon’s status as the environmental model for the nation ... The interests of Oregon for today and in the future must be protected from the grasping wastrels of the land.”

The impetus for this bill was borne by Sen. Hector Macpherson, a dairy farmer concerned about continued agricultural operations and investment in the Willamette Valley. He teamed with Sen. Ted Hallock of Portland, Rep. Nancie Fadeley of Eugene, and several others to form a bipartisan coalition to push this bill through the legislature and send it on to Gov. McCall.

Every city and county in Oregon was required to prepare a comprehensive plan that fit within the state goals but nevertheless

Why Land-Use Planning?

The UGB in action—note the clean split of residential and agricultural usage, as intended. Photo: Bruce Forster Photography.

allowed for local responsibility for the decision and enforcement. To ensure that there was uniformity across jurisdictions, a statewide agency called the Land Conservation and Development Commission was created to oversee compliance with the local planning and to create these clear statewide goals.

By 1978, most every city in Oregon had defined an Urban Growth Boundary, allowing zoning for residential, commercial and business use. Outside these boundaries, approximately 15 million acres of agricultural land and nine million acres of timber land were defined—land that prior to 1973 was mostly un-zoned or carried subdivision designations on paper.

So why would we today be interested in furthering what SB 100 and our entire land-use system started in 1973? While this system is now fully in place to manage growth, the pressures that caused it to be passed in the first place have not diminished. Our population has increased 75 percent in the past 40 years. We have more people arriving from areas not accustomed to such land-use regulations, and the Oregon land-use culture usually takes a while to catch on with newcomers. Attracting new businesses and jobs often pits us against other regions with fewer safeguards, and our land-use system is often used as a scapegoat if we aren’t viewed as getting our fair share. We have seen applications for destination resorts at Cannon Beach Dunes and Smith Rock, which, although successfully defeated, indicate there is apparently no respect for even the most iconic of Oregon’s

outdoor areas. Every recent legislative session has seen proposals from lobbyists and special interests that attempt to undermine the statewide planning process. We have seen a tragic land-use “takings” bill called Measure 37 that was passed in 2007, though voters wisely replaced it a few years later with the more acceptable Measure 49.

The very things we treasure most could still be threatened if we randomly allow bad decision-making to prevail and get a foothold. It takes consistency to preserve good land-use patterns over the long term; one bad decision can undermine it and set land-use precedent that we are stuck with forever.

What will the future bring? While I think Oregon’s culture is such that we will continue to lead, not follow, in land-use practices, how the details play out is anyone’s guess. History has shown us that two things are certain, though: We will continue to have to defend against threats to statewide planning, and we will continue to need to fine-tune our existing regulations. Since the spirit of bipartisan co-operation that produced SB 100 is certainly not present with our legislators today, we know any new landmark legislation is not as likely as it was in 1973. SB 100 will likely remain our seminal piece of statewide land use legislation.

More information about this important anniversary can be found at http://www.oregon.gov/LCD/docs/Oregons_40_year_old_innovation.pdf.

June 2013—15

by Steve Heikkila

ICS 2012-2013 was super deluxe! The dedication and effort involved in this year’s course—both from students and volunteers—was truly humbling and impressive. Out of our initial group of 42, 39 students made it through the program this year. Of those 39, 32 graduated, and the remaining seven will graduate after making up a bit of missed material. All but one of that group of 39 also assisted BCEP this year. After a quick attendance count, I was also stunned to realize that 104 volunteer assistants came out to help this year’s ICS class. Some of them were lecturers, but most helped in the field. They varied from climb leaders, Leadership Development candidates, and that whole set of awesome rock climbers who regularly help out with the Advanced Rock program, to nearly every Mazama with Avy 2 certification (mostly people involved in the Mazama Ski Mountaineering program), our resident “navigation geeks” (you know who you are), Advanced Snow and Ice instructors and graduates, and perhaps most impressive of all in terms of sheer numbers, lots and lots of previous ICS graduates. On behalf of all of the students of ICS 2012–2013, I want to give you all a warm and hearty thank you for all of your help. This course wouldn’t be possible without you.

Over the past several years the ICS curriculum has been updated and greatly improved to meet current climbing

standards and best practices. At this point it’s really dialed in and quite impressive. This year we continued to teach a much more sophisticated approach to snow-anchor building that was introduced during last year’s ICS class and based on recent fieldwork in the SAR community (especially the work of Don Bogie and Art Fortini). We also continued to modernize our approach to crevasse rescue training, based on education the Advanced Snow and Ice committee received from Rigging for Rescue. What I’m most proud of, however, is that the ICS Committee, in conjunction with Brain McCormick (ICS 2011–2012 grad and SAR volunteer), revamped and greatly improved the ICS Leadership and Accident Management (LAM) module. In the past this module largely consisted of asking students to build a Lockerby Litter and haul an injured victim up a snow slope with a mechanical advantage system. We decided this had little to do with teaching leadership skills or managing an accident scene. Now students are broken into climb teams well before the LAM weekend and asked to do a full trip plan for a predetermined route on Mt. Hood. The students show up to the LAM field session fully equipped to execute that climb, and in the course of the climb they are subjected to various accident scenarios, from whiteout conditions and AMS to avalanches and

ice and rock fall. Students are required to use their skills and best judgment to manage their accident scene for the day, from contacting SAR and performing first aid to keeping themselves and their patients warm and well hydrated. Based on instructor and student feedback, this approach was hugely successful.

This year we also continued the optional Sport Lead rock climbing module, and 22 students (more than half of the class) and five ICS alumni took advantage of the opportunity.

The potlucks the students put on

ICS 2013—Students Master Climbing Skills and Potlucks

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Photos (clockwise from upper left): Marta Martinez on rappel at Smith Rock. Photo: Steve Heikkila. Laura Gurderyahn leading high-angle snow. Photo: Gary Ballou. Alex Fox belaying classmates on high-angle snow weekend. Photo: Steve Heikkila. Kirstin LaBudda staying warm at Smith Rock. Photo: Tom Baughman.

to show their appreciation to volunteer instructors this year was unprecedented in sheer over-the-topness. At one potluck alone we had a generator fueled sno-cone machine, complete with shaved ice and syrups; a massive cauldron of seafood jambalaya; a Manhattan bar (yes, you read that right), and an absolutely sublime taco bar with chile colorado, carnitas, warm tortillas and all of the fixings. It was so impressive that early in the festivities Trung Le, one of my fellow ICS 07–08 graduates, remarked to me, “Steve, I just want to tell you that I haven’t even eaten anything yet and I’m already completely blown away! This is like a carnival!” And that was only one of the potlucks.

And lest you think from that potluck description that this year’s students were a bunch of hedonistic party animals, let me set the record straight. This is the class that was in bed by 9 p.m. on potluck nights. That’s no joke. In fact, this year’s class even has a motto: “No Jive-Ass Anchors!” Perhaps you’ll see their stickers testifying to this fact out on a climb this summer.

Congratulations ICS 2012–2013! I am super proud of each and every one of you. I would also like to thank this year’s ICS Committee: Gary Ballou, Dan Gerbus, Andrew Holman, Justin Rotherham and Ania Wiktorowicz. These people shouldered a significant part of the load this year and helped turn what in the past was a one-person show into a much more manageable group effort. Most of all though, I want to thank Gary

Ballou, ICS Assistant Coordinator superstar. He truly performed above and beyond the call of duty to such a great extent that ‘co-coordinator’ seems a more apt title than ‘assistant coordinator.’ I feel incredibly lucky

and incredibly honored to have worked with you. And hey, by the way Gary, good luck topping this year’s potlucks. You’re going to need it.

local • national • international 2013

Chamonix—Mt. Blanc Climbing Outing

July 4–17, 2013Join us on this Mazama Outing to the birth-

place of alpine mountaineering, Chamonix, Mont-Blanc, France. We’ll be there in peak alpine climbing season for two full weeks. Based at the foot of the Mt. Blanc massif with hundreds of day-trip alpine objectives, this will be a unique opportunity for climbers to fully explore the French Alps and stretch their skills. This will be a strenuous outing with climbing opportunities daily for the duration of the trip. Participants should be Mazama Intermediate Climbing School graduates or equivalent.

Outing costs will be $1,950 per person ($2,150 for non-members). Costs include all lodging and transportation within the Chamo-nix–Mt. Blanc area for 14 days (all lifts, gon-dolas, cog-trains and cable cars are included). Participants are expected to bring their own personal climbing equipment. Participants will be responsible for transportation to/from Chamonix, France. A deposit of $500 to hold your spot is due by March 15, 2013. Send application, medical form and check (made out to Mazamas) to: Mazamas, Attn: Lee Davis, Re: Chamonix 2013, 527 SE 43rd Ave-nue, Portland, OR 97213. Leader: Lee Davis 503-227-2345 ([email protected]); Assistant Leaders: Shirley Welch ([email protected]) and Marty Scott ([email protected]). Contact leader or assistants for further details.

Hiking Glacier National ParkJuly 28–Aug. 3, 2013

Full/Alternates OnlySee January Bulletin for more

information.

Exploring Idaho’s MountainsAug. 4–17, 2013

Join us on a climbing and backpacking out-ing to Idaho. One segment will be in the Seven Devils Wilderness, another in the Sawtooths, and the last at Mt. Borah. Backpacking will be moderate in distance and pace. Climbs will be nontechnical scrambles to class 3 maximum.

Begin with a three-day backpack into a base camp at Sheep Lake in the Seven Devils Wilderness, just east of the Wallowas. We may climb He Devil, She Devil, Tower of Babel or other nearby summits. Mazamas pioneered this area many years ago. Next, we will move

to Stanley and Redfish Lake, where we start a 40-mile, seven-day loop through the scenic center of the Sawtooth Wilderness and around Sawtooth Lake itself. Possible climbs may include Mt. Regan and Mt. Thompson.

Lastly, we move southeast to climb Idaho’s highpoint, Borah Peak, as a day trip.

Participants should be able to carry a 40+/- lb. pack on rough, off-trail terrain, and be comfortable climbing class 3 rock. Dan-gers include falls, weather, rockfall and pos-sibly black bears. For a photo preview of the Sawtooths, go to http://breivog.zenfolio.com/p483948971.

Costs range from $119 to $190 with maxi-mum group size of 12 (including leaders). Participants responsible for transportation, camping, hotel and food costs. We will arrange carpools and tent/gear sharing. No climb cards are needed.

A $50 deposit is due by June 15, 2013. Contact leader Bob Breivogel 503-297-4284, [email protected] or co-leader: Paul Ste-ger, 503-281-2443, [email protected].

Wallowa Mountain TrekAugust 18–24, 2013

Join us as we hike and climb in the beauti-ful and scenic Eagle Cap Wilderness in the Wallowa Mountains of NE Oregon. The 6–8 participants will need to be in good physical condition for this up-to-70-mile adventure and should have experience in at least one 50+ mile trek and A-level climbing. We will have a flexi-ble schedule dependent on weather, terrain and

team strength. Possible peaks we will climb include Aneroid, Sentinal, Cusik, Eagle Cap, Matterhorn and Sacajawea. The pace will vary with up to approximately 10-15 miles per day possible over moderate to dif-ficult terrain. The cost of the outing will be between $90 and $115.

We will have a pre-outing meeting in early summer. Contact the leader, Gary Bishop ([email protected]), for more informa-tion.

Redwoods Hiking ExperienceAug. 25–31, 2013

Join Bob Smith and Marty Hanson for five days of hiking in the magnificent Red-wood Forest of the northern California coast. Daily A- and B-level hikes will take place in Redwood National Park and three adjoining California state parks. Emphasis will be placed on the history of the area, as well as the bio-logical, geological, and cultural diversity that abounds.

The Outing will be based in the Crescent City KOA with carpooling to the trailheads. This beautiful campground, set in a grove of Redwoods, includes cabins, tent sites and RV hookups. The cost of the outing is $100 per person with a $30 surcharge for non-Maza-mas. Participants will make their own lodging/camping arrangements and will be responsible for their own meals.

Adventure Traveloutings

Wallowas


Contact Bob at [email protected] for an application and to reserve your place. The outing is limited to 28 participants. Payment is due with the completed application.

Yosemite National Park/High Sierra Camping, Hiking and

BackpackingAug. 26–Sep. 8, 2013

This outing is mainly a car-camping and day-hiking (from the campground base) trip, with a four-day backpack into Yosemite National Park high country mixed in. While on the backpack, we will hike to the top of Clouds Rest and Half Dome (via the cable route). For those who have never been to one of our country’s most beautiful national parks, this is a great opportunity.

Costs will range between $250 to $450 per person, depending on the number of partici-pants, not including getting there and back—mainly for outing expenses, camping costs and permit fees. Food costs are also not included. A $100/person deposit will be required to secure a spot.

Outing Leader: Bill Dewsnap, Assist: Rex Breunsbach. Contact leader for more informa-tion: [email protected] / 503-260-6712

Backpack and Climb in the Trinity Alps

Sept. 15–21, 2013Come spend six days in the spectacular

alpine wilderness of the Trinity Alps in north-ern California, and hopefully we’ll bag a few peaks, as well.

The Trinities are like the Wallowas on steroids, with far fewer people. Typically in September, the weather is perfect and the bugs are all gone. This area is oddly little-known to Portlanders, but it’s amazing.

We’ll hike up Canyon Creek to two differ-ent camps near gorgeous lakes around 6,000 feet, surrounded by granite walls and spires. On three days we’ll have the option of scram-bling up peaks in the 9,000-foot range (bring helmets for some Class 3 rock). If you’re not up for climbing, you’ll have gorgeous country in which to explore, swim, fish, or just lie around.

Cost of $150-180 depends on how many people go (maximum 10) and includes a nice B&B the night we hike out. Contact leader Paul Gerald ([email protected] or 971-227-2059) or assistant Gary Beck ([email protected]) for details.

China–TibetSept. 29–Oct. 19, 2013

Join us on an amazing spiritual, cultural and scenic journey to the most sacred moun-tain in Asia. The full trip begins in the ancient capital city of Xian, China. In Xian we view the Terra Cotta Warriors and hike up spec-tacular Hua Shan (Mountain). Then we board the coolest train ever for our trip to Lhasa, Tibet. In Lhasa, we tour the Potala and other famous monasteries, the Jokhang Temple, the Barkhor and associated sites. From Lhasa we proceed by land cruiser west to Gyantse, Shi-gatse, Lhatse, and on to western Tibet’s Lake Manasarovar and then to Mt. Kailash where we will do a three-day kora or trek around the sacred mountain. From Mt. Kailash we’ll

return to Lhasa by the scenic southern route through the Himalayas, including a visit to the North Ridge Everest Base Camp and a tour of the Sakya Monastery.

There are two trip options: The entire 21-day China-Tibet trip (Sept. 29–Oct. 19) costs approx. $4,200–$4,500, or the 16-day Tibet-only trip (Oct. 4–19, begins and ends in Lhasa) costs approx. $3,700–$4,000. Airfare is not included. Group size will be 10–15. The deposit is $500.

For more info, an itinerary or an appli-cation, contact trip leader Joe Whittington ([email protected], 503-297-6344). Our assistant leader is Eugene Lewins ([email protected], 503-939-9657).

Trekking in PatagoniaFeb. 8–22, 2014

At the southern end of the Earth lies a wide, windswept, wonderful land called Patagonia. Though it’s technically in both Argentina and Chile, Patagonia is a place of its own, a land of calving glaciers, vast lakes, awesome steppes and peaks so jagged and immense they pause the mind and stir the heart. Patagonia calls to the adventure traveler and mainly to the hiker.

Once in Patagonia, we will spend two weeks doing both day hikes and multi-days hikes both in Chile and Argentina. We’ll day-hike into the mighty range of peaks dominated by Monte Fitz Roy, an 11,020-ft. tower whose sheer face of more than 6,000 feet makes it one of the world’s most challenging climbs. We’ll also catch views of the Continental Ice Field and even walk on the surface of the sprawl-ing Perito Moreno Glacier. In Chile we visit the Torres del Paine National Park. Here lie the famous Towers of Paine. In the park, we’ll hike hut-to-hut for five days along the “W” Circuit (named for its shape), winding in and out of spectacular mountain valleys, past Grey Glacier and up the spectacular French Valley, surrounded by hanging glaciers and an amphi-theater of granite walls and spires.

Contact [email protected] for more details. $3995 per person excluding air fare. Need a minimum of eight people to go.

Want to go on an outing? Contact the leader for more information and the forms you will need: an application, a liability release and a medical information form. Send those forms to the leader and then, upon acceptance for the trip, send payments directly to the Mazama office with the name of the outing written on the check. As a service to our members, we are providing links to the following organizations that may also offer trips of interest: Seattle Mountaineers—www.seatt lemountaineers.org, Colorado Mountain Club—www.cmc.org, Appalachian Mountain Club—www.outdoors.org, and the American Alpine Club—www.americanalpineclub.org.

Redwoods.

June 2013—19

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VISIT PERU

Ankush Varma setting up rappel at Sky Chimney at Smith Rock. Photo: Vaqas Malik.


Top: Right: A multi-family sunny afternoon at Salmon Slabs. Bottom: Davey Murphy being instructed on personal pro. Photos: Bob Murphy.

by Bob Murphy & Andrea McKee

As parents we love to spend time with our kids and we love to climb! We are continuously looking for ways to include our kids in pursuit of our passion of climbing and outdoor recreation. As such, we would like to further develop opportunities within the Mazamas for family-centered climbing and outings as a way to bring families together, enjoy some adventure and support the next generation of climbers.

We are at the formative stage of the Mazama Family group, but the general idea is to organize activities so kids and parents can get out and play together. Like a good kid’s movie, it will be geared for kids to keep them engaged but also have many fun elements for the parents. Also, we would like to develop kid-swapping. This way parents can get on routes or adventures while their kiddos are safe and sound with like-minded friends. This could be swaps for turns watching the kids and climbing a rock pitch to full-day or weekend swap for longer adventures.

The activity offerings would range from in-town events to several day outings and consist of a broad base of activities for kids of all ages. Anything from rock wall climbing at the MMC, to kid-centric hikes to backpacking to cragging to snow sports—the possibilities are many!

We have enlisted several Mazamas so far to develop activities: Craig Martin, James Jula, John Godino and Richard Caldwell to name a few. Richard is committed to leading some hikes and climbs. Craig is committed to running a Salmon Slab outing. John has offered to lead some kid-centric hikes. Charles Barker, the director of the Mazama Lodge, spoke of increasing family offerings there. And we are going to lead a family session at the MMC rock wall and a Smith Rock outing in October.

There are a number of other fun ideas: car camping, extended outings, a forum for exchanging ideas and gear, a program just for teens, etc. We need your help to figure out what the membership is interested in and find additional activity leaders to make it all happen.

We would love to kick off this group with a gathering on June 12, 2013, at 6 p.m. at Hopworks Urban Brewery (HUB) in southeast Portland. Kids, of course, are welcome! If interested in joining us for this brainstorming session, please RSVP to [email protected] so we can make a group reservation. If you are unable to join us on that evening but would like to express an interest to lead or assist an activity, suggest ideas, participate and/or join our mailing list; also, please drop us a line.

Mazama Families

June 2013—21

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Successful ClimbersMarch 9, Mount St. Helens, Worm Flows. Leader: Ken Searl, Asst: Karl Helser. Pam Gilmer, Michael Hortsch, Ember Kauth, Alex Lockard, Tobia McCandless, Karen Vernier.

May 3, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Larry Beck, Asst: Tim Hale. Peg Gauthier, Morgan Harvey, Kim Hefty, Gerry Howick, Mike Maguire, Sean Pickner, Andy Schiestl, Shannon Walls.

May 4, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek. Leader: Steve Warner, Asst: Justin Colquhoun. Dennis Damici, Brendan Dell, Frank Mifsud, Stacey Redington, Aaron Rogers, Cyndy Rutto.

May 4, Mount St. Helens, Worm Flows. Leader: Chris Kruell, Asst: Elliot Shuford. Elisabeth Bowers, Adam Clarno, Pamela Monheimer, Ken Park, Kathrin Sears.

May 5, Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Leader: Robert Joy, Asst: Whit Fellers. Dianne DenOtter, Leontine Galante, Steve Levine.

May 7, Mount St. Helens, Monitor Ridge. Leader: Joe Whittington, Asst: Nathan Pier. Nicholas de Steiger, Rene DeJarnatt, Allie Duncan.

May 7, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Tim Scott, Asst: Patrick Taylor. Francisco Cardenas-Waller, Sojo Hendrix, Johnny Leahy, Brian Murray, Kirk Newgard, Dan Rudolph, Chris Tinnin.

May 11, Mt. Hood, Ladd Glacier. Leader: Glenn Widener, Asst: Jeff Hawkins. Eric Brainard, Steve Marston, Al Papesh, Katy Ryan, Roger Wong.

May 11, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek. Leader: Gregory Willmarth, Asst: Seeger Fisher. Mary Beth Turner, Jesse Davidson, Sean Fitzpatrick, Heath Harrelson, Ben Kocarnik, Brenton Lindsey, Patricia Neighbor, Hal Paver, Mike Wallace.

May 11, Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute. Leader: Andrew Bodien, Asst: Karl Langenwalter. Joel Brainard, Kim Edger, Joe Elberhardt, Kathleen Hahn, Colleen Sinsky.

May 11, Diamond Peak, West Ridge. Leader: Ryan Christie, Asst: Steve Burton. Linda Mark, Erika Markel, Layne Russell.

May 11, Mount St. Helens, Swift Creek. Leader: George Shay, Asst: Justin Colquhoun. Nancy Bentley, Ellie Branch, Donald Gantzer, Dan Gibson, Brad Hulquist, Rae Lantsberger, Rico Macallef, Michael Magyar.

May 12, Mt. Hood, Cooper Spur. Leader: Darrell Weston, Asst: Shannon Wells. Tom Sandahl, Brad Unruh.

May 12, Mt. Hood, Old Chute. Leader: Gary Bishop, Asst: Howie Davis. Trent Carlisle, Adam Horak, Andrew Leaf, Karen Ripplinger, Wade Shelton, Graeme Wilson, Andreas Wunderle.


Departure Return Mountain, Route Codes Leader Spots Status Climb#06/01–AM 06/02–PM Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch B+(N)(E)(BCEP)(ICS) Tian Lan 1 Open 24706/06–AM 06/09–PM Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver C+(E) (ICS) Jeff Welter 2 Open 21306/07–PM 06/09–PM Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute A(L #155) Doug Wilson 0 Alternates 12406/07–5PM 06/07–PM Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake B (BCEP) Bob Breivogel 0 Alternates 13706/07–PM 06/09–PM Mt. Angeles, Switchback Trail A(L #124) Doug Wilson 0 Alternates 15506/07–PM 06/09–PM Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge A(E) Kevin Clark 1 Open 6206/07–AM 06/09–PM Ruth Mountain, Ruth Glacier B(S)(E) (BCEP) Jon Major 2 Open 9906/08–AM 06/09–PM Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier - North Ridge B+ (BCEP) Bill McLoughlin 0 Alternates 4306/08–5PM 06/09–PM Castle-Pinnacle, Standard Traverse B (BCEP) Bob Breivogel 0 Alternates 13806/08–AM 06/09–PM Mt. Ellinor, SE Chute A (BCEP) Daniel Bailey 1 Open 1206/09–AM 06/09–PM Mt. Hood, West Crater Rim B Steve Warner 0 Open 7706/14–AM 06/14–PM Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge A (BCEP) Hugh Brown 5 Open 18606/15–PM 06/16–PM Mt. Hood, Old Chute B (BCEP)(ICS) George Shay 10 Open 12206/16–AM 06/16–PM Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge A (BCEP) Eileen Kiely 3 Open 9406/21–AM 06/23–PM South Sister, Prouty Glacier B+(E) (ICS) Daniel Bailey 0 Alternates 2206/21–PM 06/22–PM Mt. Washington (Olympics), Standard B (BCEP) Tom Elmer 7 Open 18106/21–AM 06/23–PM Mt. Adams, Adams Glacier D+(E) (ASI) Jeff Welter 2 Open 21406/22–AM 06/23–PM Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier D+(E) Preston Corless 0 Alternates 20606/22–PM 06/22–PM Mt. Hood, Old Chute B (BCEP)(ICS) George Shay 10 Open 12306/22–AM 06/24–PM Mt. Adams, Avalanche-White Salmon Glacier C+ (ICS) Bob Breivogel 2 Open 13906/23–AM 06/23–PM Pinnacle Peak, East Ridge B (BCEP)(ICS) John Meckel 1 Open 14306/28–PM 06/30–PM Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake B (BCEP) (L#97) James Jula 0 Alternates 9806/28–AM 06/28–PM South Sister, Devil’s Lake A(H) Jill Kellogg 5 Open 3506/28–AM 06/30–PM Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver C+(E) (ICS) Tian Lan 7 Open 24806/28–PM 07/01–PM Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier C+(E) (ICS) Tim Scott 1 Open 25606/30–5AM 06/30–3PM South Sister, Devil’s Lake A(Y) (BCEP)(ICS) Mark Montgomery 11 Open 24407/04–AM 07/06–PM Mt. Jefferson, Jeff Park Glacier D+(E) (ICS) Jeff Welter 2 Open 21507/05–AM 07/07–PM Mt. Adams, Mazama Glacier B+(E) (BCEP) Daniel Bailey 0 Alternates 1607/05–AM 07/07–PM Mt. Constance, College Route / South Chute B+ (ICS) Bob Breivogel 3 Open 14807/06–AM 07/07–PM Mt. Adams, South Side A Steve Warner 0 Open 7807/11–AM 07/12–PM Unicorn Peak, Snow Lake B (BCEP) Doug Couch 0 Open 18307/11–PM 07/14–PM Mt. Buckner, North Face D+(E) (ASI) Tim Scott 2 Open 25707/12–AM 07/15–PM Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier C+ (ICS) Bill McLoughlin 0 Alternates 307/12–AM 07/14–PM Mt. Constance, SE Face via S. Fork Tunnel Cr. C+ (ICS) Tom Elmer 7 Open 18007/12–AM 07/14–PM Mt. Shasta, Avalanche Gulch B (BCEP)(ICS) George Shay 10 Open 20907/12–AM 07/14–PM Mt. Rainier, Disappointment Cleaver C+ (ICS) Darrell Weston 0 Open 27407/13–AM 07/14–PM Mt. Adams, South Side A+ (BCEP) Lynne Pedersen 7 Open 11407/14–AM 07/17–PM Mt. Rainier, Emmons Glacier C+(E) (ICS) Bruce Yatvin 7 Open 2107/16–AM 07/17–PM The Tooth, South Face D(P) (ICS)(AR) Rayce Boucher 5 Open 5107/17–PM 07/21–AM Mt. Rainier, Kautz Glacier D+(E) (ICS) Chris Kruell 2 Open 4507/19–AM 07/20–PM Mt. Adams, South Side A+ Jill Kellogg 2 Open 4107/19–PM 07/20–PM South Sister, Devil’s Lake A (BCEP) Lori Freeman 10 Open 16507/19–4PM 07/22–PM Chiwawa Mountain, Red Mountain B+ Bob Breivogel 1 Open 13507/20–AM 07/21–PM Middle Sister, Hayden Glacier - North Ridge B+ (BCEP)(ICS) Rick Posekany 8 Open 28407/23–AM 07/24–PM Mt. St. Helens, Monitor Ridge A(C)(H)(N) George Cummings 7 Open 21707/26–AM 07/28–PM Old Snowy, Snowgrass Flats A+(F) Richard Caldwell 7 Open 5707/26–AM 07/27–PM Mt. Adams, South Side A (BCEP) Patrice Cook 6 Open 10807/26–PM 07/27–PM Mt. McLoughlin, East Ridge A(E) (A# 227 and #228) Robert Caldwell 1 Open 22607/26–PM 07/28–PM Bacon Peak, Southwest Route B+(E) Tim Scott 0 Open 25807/27–AM 07/28–PM Mt. Adams, South Side A+ (BCEP)(ICS) Darrell Weston 0 Alternates 26907/28–AM 07/28–PM Union Peak, Standard Route A(E) (A# 226 & 228) Robert Caldwell 0 Alternates 22707/29–AM 07/29–PM Mt. Bailey, Standard A(E) (A# 226 & #227) Robert Caldwell 0 Alternates 22807/30–AM 08/01–PM Mt. Baker, Coleman-Deming Glacier C(E) (ICS)(ASI) Carol Bryan 7 Open 197

Upcoming ClimbsIt’s not too late to get on some summer climbs. This list includes the climbs with openings and those that are taking alternates for the next two months. Please reference the online climb schedule for the most up-to-date information. Don’t miss out! Submit those climb cards today.

June/July

June 2013—23

From Cole Robinson:I wanted to let you know what a wonderful time was had by the group of Bhutanese Refugees that I brought to the Mazama Lodge in April. Once we left Sandy there was an audible hush among our group of nearly 40 people. They were thrilled to leave the city and travel to a place that reminded them a little of the home that they were forced to leave. The group, ranging in age from toddler to senior citizen, enjoyed the comforts of Mazama Lodge, sledding, snowshoeing and snowball fights. Max was very helpful in facilitating the organized chaos that was our very large potluck. We had numerous comments expressing deep gratitude for the experience and for use of the lodge. Thank you so much Max and Charles!

(Cole Robinson is new Mazama member and works through the Portland Parks SUN Program)

Mazamasmother's day Weekend fun on mount st. helens

in their element

Clockwise, from left: Daniel Bailey and Ania Wiktorowicz on the summit of Mount. St. Helens. A toast to great hair (Dave Aerne & friends). Photo: Amy Mendenhall. Mazamas on Mt. St. Helen’s the day before Mother’s Day. Photo: Michael Warren.

by Terry Campbell, AR Coordinator

Advanced Rock was a big success this year with 24 students making their way through the whole of the course and graduating. We climbed at Smith Rock for three weekends, Frenchman’s Coulee for one weekend, participated in Arno Ilgner clinics and had well over 50 volunteers participate. A smaller group will be heading to Yosemite for a week in June. Thank you to all of our volunteers and congrats to all of our students!

Advanced Rock 2013: Techniques, Training & Fun

Alissa Lesperance climbing Sky Ridge. Photo: Terry Campbell.

The Research Committee annually solicits proposals for research activities that are relevant to the Mazamas. These proposals are in three groups: Standard (for experienced researchers), Graduate (college post-graduates) and youth (students in K-12).

This year the Research Committee reviewed 25 proposals; nine (36 percent) were awarded funding for a total of $14,385.16

Standard• D’Allura, Jad. Southern Oregon

University. Age and Origin of Ridge-Forming Projections of Western Cascade Volcanic Rocks, Southern Oregon.

• Granshaw, Frank. Portland State and Portland Community College. Glaciers and Glacial Monitoring in the Western

National Parks: A Virtual Field Experience. He is willing to involve Mazamas members as volunteers. See ad for volunteers in Bulletin for more details.

Graduate• Corthouts, Travis. Montana

State University. Deformational History of the Qomolangma Formation of Yellow Band of Mt. Everest, Nepal.

• Johnston, James. Oregon State University. High Elevation White Bark Forests in the Southern Blue Mountains in Eastern Oregon.

• Moler, Ehren. Idaho State University, Investigating Symbionts of Whitebark Pine Needles for a Source Resistance Against the White Pine Blister Rust Disease.

• Moussallam, Yves. University

of Cambridge, England. Multi-Instrument Monitoring Campaign at Villarrica Volcano, Chile.

• White, Ali. Montana State University. Ecosystem Response to Climate Change and Fire in Southwestern Oregon during the Holocene Era.

• Williams, Jason. Washington State University. Effects on Glaciers in the Chemistry of Mountain Lakes in the North Cascades National Park.

Youth• Weedle, Mike and Johanna

Verner. Jane Goodall Environmental School, Salem. Pika Re-colonization and Successor Dynamics: A K-12 Research Project. Salem, Oregon.

Research Committee Awards Grants

GRANTS

Camping near Goblin Valley, Utah. Photo: Vaqas Malik


Sign Up Now! Mazama Youth Climb Skill-BuilderDates:• Tuesday, June 11: Session 1, at the MMC

(time to be determined)• Thursday, June 13: Session 2, at the MMC• Tuesday, June 18: Session 3, at the MMC• Thursday, June 20: Session 4, at the MMC• Saturday, June 22: Session 5 at the Source

What your child will learn:The goal of this Youth Climb Camp is to teach kids the basics of top-rope climbing. At the end of the course students will be able to:

• belay• properly tie in with a figure eight• use proper safety commands• climb on top route using basic technique

terminology• have an appreciation for the sport of climbing

Cost: This pilot program will be FREE to

participants, aside from the Saturday session at the Source, the cost of which will be $12/student.

To register: http://tinyurl.com/youthclimbregistration.

Have You Met Rex?by Kati Mayfield

If you’re like hundreds of other Mazama community members, Rex Breunsbach has led you on one of his brisk and adventurous hikes as a hike leader for Trail Trips Committee. May 15’s Mount St. Helens Harry’s Ridge Trail hike marked the “signing-in” of the 1,000th participant for one of his hikes. Since January 2011, when he started to keep track, 340 different hikers have signed in, some of them as many as 40 times. During this period, a more than 9,500 miles of trail have been hiked and over 2 million feet (378 miles) in elevation has been climbed.

Those figures are amazing! So what drives Rex? He says, “Hiking is my drug of choice; I don’t like taking pills.”

Rex’s hikes vary from standard Gorge favorites like Dog Mountain to lesser-known trails like Rudolph Spur to creative variations on well-known paths like the one-day 30.2-mile hike of Wildwood Trail in Forest Park, which he led in early May this year.

In addition to leading hikers, Rex has mentored other aspiring hike leaders and helped certify them through provisional hikes. Rex sets an inspiring example of fitness, stamina and youthful enthusiasm for the outdoors.

Join me in congratulating Rex, and join Rex on the trails this summer—Sedum Ridge, Harts Cove and Wildcat Mountain coming up in June!

Publications Committee Asks You to Think Ahead for Next

Year’s Annual The Publications Committee is already in the

planning stage for the 2013 Annual. We would love to hear about your adventures this winter,

spring, summer and fall, especially any climbing-related stories you would like to share with fellow Mazamas. We will help you edit any submissions

you make. It’s not too early to consider writing about anything exciting or interesting on any of your trips. Please submit materials to mazama.

[email protected]’d also like to encourage you to submit

high-resolution photos of climbing, hiking or backpacking, even if they are not attached to

an article. We would like to print a number of stand-alone photos from members in upcoming

Annuals and we especially need vertically-oriented (portrait mode) pictures. Photos must

be 300 dpi. Please give your photographs a descriptive file name and submit with a photo

caption and credit. You can submit your photos to the email address above.

Many thanks —Mazamas Publications Committee.

June 2013—27

HK A2 Jun 01 (Sat) Grassy Knoll. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. Short hike to a bald topped old lookout site above Carson, Washington. Great flow-ers and views of Adams 4.4 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 138 TH Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK B2 Jun 01 (Sat) Hamilton Mountain Loop. Mitch Auer-bach 503-505-2160. June 1st is National Trails Day and there are no parking fees at Beacon Rock State Park or the Hamilton trailhead area. Yeah! Also, we will be doing this hike in partner-ship with the Adventurous Young Mazamas, who have invited us to join them on a grand picnic after-wards. 7.6 miles 2,100 ft. Dr. 88 Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK C2.5 Jun 01 (Sat) Larch Mt. from Multnomah Falls. Kate Ev-ans 503-635-6540. Wilderness—Limit 12. Enjoy the views from Sherrard Point: Mtns. Adams, Helens, Hood, Jeff, and Rainier. 13.8 miles 4,100 ft. Dr. 48 Gate-way 7:30 a.m.

HK B2 Jun 02 (Sun) Dog Moun-tain Loop. Sojo Hendrix 971-221-9675. The perfect time of the year for peak balsamroot, lupine, and Indian paintbrush viewing! We may return on the Augspurger Trail to avoid the crowds. 7.2 miles 2,900 ft. Dr. 98 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B1.5 Jun 05 (Wed) Upper and Lower Falls Creek. Kent Meyer (360)574-0784. This is a good trail to a small upper falls with a return trip to the high lower high falls. This will be a slow hike. 8 miles 1,400 ft. Dr. 100 TH Lewis & Clark S.P. (near toilets) 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jun 05 (Wed) Wilson River Trails–exploratory. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. We will start at the Kings Moun-tain TH and hike west past the Tillamook forestry center. Car Shuttle 13.8 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 90 Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 Jun 08 (Sat) Eagle Creek (High Bridge). Jim Selby (828) 508-5094. Always a favor-ite with spectacular falls, a wide variety of plants, and stunning canyon views. We will beat the crowds and be among the first on trail. 6.6 miles 700 ft. Dr. 74 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2.5 Jun 08 (Sat) Silver Star—Starway Trail. Gary Bish-op [email protected]. Take the most challenging trail to the top of Silver Star Mt. Start out with a steep ascent of an aban-doned jeep track, then follow a brushy, rarely maintained ridge-line trail to meet the Bluff Mt. trail and the final push to the summit. Trekking poles and gai-ters recommended. (Sign up at the Gateway TC only.) 9.2 miles 3,100 ft. Dr. 75 TH Gateway 9 a.m.

HK A1.5 Jun 09 (Sun) Bayocean Spit. Richard Getgen [email protected]. Loop hike: half along the beach and half along the estuary. 7.5 miles 100 ft. Dr. 145 Target/185th 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jun 09 (Sun) Wahkee-na-Angels Rest. Terry Lawson 971-998-5810. This hike will use a car shuttle. We ascend along Wahkeena Creek with its rushing waters and falls, and cross over to Angels Rest with its view of the gorge, descending along the Angels Rest trail. 6.4 miles 1,800 ft. Dr. 45 Gateway 8:30 a.m.

HK C2 Jun 09 (Sun) Hardy–Mt. Hamilton. Larry Solomon [email protected]. Up the panoramic west Hardy ridge to the summit and lunch. Down the east ridge and across the new bridge to Mt. Hamilton summit via Don’s Cutoff. Return via the cutoff and bridge down the east Hardy ridge. 13 miles 3,000 ft. Dr. 92. Discover Pass. Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Jun 12 (Wed) Salmon Butte. Terry Lawson [email protected]. Wilderness—Limit 12. This is a nice ascent through pleasant woods, with great views at the top if it is clear. The relocated trailhead makes it a bit longer than before, but the views and rhododendron dis-plays should make it worth it. E-mail leader to reserve a space. 11.2 miles 3,280 ft. Dr. 90 TH MMC 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jun 15 (Sat) Elevator Shaft. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. Wilderness—Limit 12. How about this one—straight up—located only ½ mile from the comforts of Multnomah Falls Lodge. Slippery moss-covered scramble then over to Wespe point, a great overlook of the

Gorge, to enjoy lunch. 9 miles 2100 ft. Dr. 42 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Jun 15 (Sat) Hunch-back Mt. (Great Pyramid). David Nelson [email protected]. Wilderness—Limit 12. Will start from the Zigzag Ranger Station. Steady elevation gain at first to great viewpoint. We’ll keep hik-ing along a ridge that has several more view options and ends at the “Great Pyramid” which juts out above the Salmon River Val-ley. Contact leader to pre-register. 9 miles 3,060 ft. Dr. 76 Gateway 8 a.m.

TT Jun 15 (Sat) King Mt Trail Tender. Richard Pope (503) 860-8789. Help maintain our ad-opted trail in the coast range. We will cut back logs and brush from the long winter. Bring boots and gloves, we provide all tools and training. Dress for the weather. Contacting leader will help us plan our tool needs! 6 miles 2,000 ft. Dr. 66 Target at 185th off Sunset Hwy 8 a.m.

HK A2 Jun 16 (Sun) Salmon Riv-er Trail (Upper). Ursula Edlund [email protected]. Wilder-ness—Limit 12. We hike along the river through Douglas-fir for-est. Lunch will be at our view-point, overlooking the Salmon River canyon, a very peaceful spot. 7.2 miles 950 ft. Dr. 82 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jun 16 (Sun) Angels Rest. Jim Selby 828-508-5094. Join Jim on a great Father’s Day eve-ning hike at Angels Rest. If you have never been to the top in the late evening you have re-ally missed something, especially views up the Gorge. Plus, there will be plenty of flowers to ap-preciate. We’ll take our time on top to enjoy our snacks and view and will still be back to the trail-head by 9 p.m. 4.6 miles 1,584 ft. Dr. 42 MMC 5 p.m.

HK C2 Jun 16 (Sun) Cook-Aug-spurger Traverse. Kurt Hiland [email protected]. A point-to-point hike that circles around Dog Mt. Good views abound from the meadows of Cook Hill and Augspurger Mt., and the woodsy ridge in between the two summits. 13 miles 4,500 ft. Dr. 110 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Jun 19 (Wed) Nesmith Point. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-

2556. Wilderness—Limit 12. Up to Corky’s corner, then through the woods to the point for an excellent view of the Columbia Gorge 9.8 miles 3,810 ft. Dr. 60 MMC 8 a.m.

HK A2 Jun 22 (Sat) Lava Can-yon. Flora Huber (503) 658-5710. Great spring hike with a suspension bridge crossing, a 40 ft. ladder, and interesting falls along the way. Scenic drive is a bonus. 5.3 miles 1,400 ft. Dr. 142 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jun 22 (Sat) Cape Horn Upper. Jim Selby (828) 508-5094. Wildflowers galore this time of year and beautiful vistas. We will go up to the various lookouts, then down to the river bluffs south of Hwy 14 for lunch. We return using a few alternate links in the trail. A bit more el-evation than loop trail but about the same distance. 7 miles 1,600 ft. Dr. 55 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK B2 Jun 22 (Sat) Harts Cove. Rex Breunsbach 971-832-2556. On the Oregon Coast. We will travel through old-growth spruce forest, bluff-top meadows, and pass rocky shores. Plan on a full day and any kind of weath-er. 12 miles 2,600 ft. Dr. 182 Target/185th 7:30 a.m.

HK C2 Jun 22 (Sat) North Lake via Wyeth Trail. Sherry Bourdin (503) 246-8095. Wilderness—Limit 12. A favorite for this hike leader. A steady climb to about 3000 feet and then gentle ascent to North Lake, which will be very inviting for a swim if it’s a hot day. 13.2 miles 4,160 ft. Dr. 88 TH Gateway 7:30 a.m.

HK C2 Jun 26 (Wed) Mt. De-fiance. Jay Avery [email protected]. Wilderness—Limit 12. Keep that climbing fitness level that you worked so hard for. We will go counter-clockwise this time. 11.9 miles 4,800 ft. Dr. 98 Lewis & Clark S.P. (near toilets) 7:30 a.m.

HK A2 Jun 29 (Sat) Elk Mead-ows Loop. Dick Meissner 503-692-9065. Wilderness—Limit 12. The snow is clearing up on the mountain, so let’s hike to Elk Meadows. Bring your poles; crossing Newton Creek could be interesting this early in the sea-son. 6.8 miles 1,400 ft. Dr. 126 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

Contact Trail Trips Committee chair is Jim Selby at [email protected] with any questions. To lead a hike in July, log on to the Trails Trips website at http://www.mazamas2.org.

Note: “Wilderness—Limit 12” means the hike enters a Forest Service-designated Wilderness Area, and the number of participants is limited to 12, including the leader.

Check the website for new hikes and updates:

Our leaders may schedule a hike for the current month after the bulletin is published, or occasionally a hike location may change due to conditions, so please visit tinyurl.com/mazamahikeschedule.

AYM is also Hiking: Adventurous Young Mazamas (AYM) offers hikes too, and everyone is welcome. See the separate list at http://tinyurl.com/mazamaaym.

Take

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Class A: Easy to moderate; 4-8 miles, under 1,500 feet elevation gain. Class B: Moderate to difficult; 6-12 miles, over 1,500 feet gain. Class C: Difficult to strenuous or rug-ged; 8 miles or more, typically over 3,000 feet. Class D and Dw: very difficult very strenuous with challenging conditions. Contact with leader for details prior to the day of the trip is mandatory .

Numeral after class indicates pace: All pace information is average uphill speed.

• 1 = 1 mph: slow, easy pace • 1.5 = 1.5 mph: moderately easy pace• 2 = 2 mph: moderate pace• 2.5 = 2.5 mph: moderately fast pace • 3 = 3 mph: fast conditioning pace; • 3.5 = 3.5 mph: very fast, highly aerobic

conditioning pace.

HK=Hike; SR=Street Ramble; R=Run; BP=Backpack; TT=Trail Tending; RP=Restoration Project; W=Wilderness area–limited to a maximum of 12 per-sons; SS=Snowshoes; NS=Cross Country Ski.

Hike fees: $2 for members, each family participant and those belonging to clubs in FWOC; $4 for non-members. No person will be turned away if they are unable to pay. Street Ramble fees: $2 per person; $1 per person if over 55 or 14 and under. Both members and nonmem-bers are welcome at all trail trips. Trail Tending events are free.

Meeting Places: Gateway–SE corner of P&R Garage near 99th & Pacific (I-84 Exit 7); L&C–Lewis and Clark State Park (1-84 Exit 18); Oswego TC–Boones Ferry Rd at Monroe Parkway; Salmon-Creek P&R–Vancouver P&R at 134 St (1-5 Exit 7 or 1-205 Exit 36); Parkrose/Sumner Transit Center–Sandy Blvd. & 98th Ave. (1-205 Exit 23A); Durham–P&R at Boones Ferry & Bridgeport (1-5 Exit 290); MMC–Mazama Mountaineer-ing Center, 527 SE 43rd at Stark; Pend-leton–Pendleton Woolen Mills in Wash-ougal; REI–Pearl, NW 14th & Johnson; Target185 –Target P/L Sunset Hwy at 185th. Dr.–round-trip driving mileage. ft–Hike elevation gain. TH Pass–USFS parking pass needed for trailhead; Sno-Pass–Snow park pass.

Trail Trips Hike Rules: Hikers are encour-aged to carpool and share costs. The maximum suggested total rate each is a donation of fifteen cents per mile for up to three people per vehicle. Dogs are not allowed except for hikes designated as “dog-walks.” Alcohol and firearms are not allowed. Participants should wear appropriate hiking shoes; carry lunch, water, rain gear (umbrella, parka, or pon-cho) and the 10 essentials (whistle, extra food & clothing, sun protection, map, compass, flashlight, first aid kit, pocket knife, waterproof matches, fire starter). Participants should be in a physical condi-tion appropriate for the difficulty of the hike. Leaders may decline anyone not properly equipped or judged incapable of completing the hike in a reasonable time frame. Hikers voluntarily leaving the group are considered nonparticipants. In case of accident, illness or incapacity, hik-ers must pay their medical and/or evacua-tion expenses whether they authorize them or not. Hikes leave the meeting place at the time listed. See hike write-ups for par-ticulars of pace, trail conditions, mileage and elevation gain. Adverse conditions, weather and combined circumstances can affect difficulty. Hikes are classified into general categories; contact leader for fur-ther details.

rambles cornerRambles are held every Tuesday and Thursday evening; descriptions are below. Special rambles that don’t conform to this schedule or meet at a different place are listed in the regular hike schedule.

Tuesday and Thursday Rambles from REI-PearlVarious leaders will lead walks every Tuesday and Thursday starting at REI in the Pearl. Rambles start promptly at 6 p.m. Multiple groups will be lead at different paces. Bring a headlamp. These rambles average 4-8 miles 500-1,500ft and meet-up at REI-Pearl NW 14th & Johnson 6 p.m.

Wednesday Street Rambles from the MMCMeg Linza 503-502-8782. Join us at the MMC and walk at a brisk pace up to the top of Mt. Tabor. We will spend 30 minutes on the 280 stairs, climbing up and down to get fit for climbs/hiking this spring and summer, then return to the MMC. Bring water and layered clothing. We may stop at the Belmont carts at the end of our walk, so bring cash if you are interested in grabbing a quick bite/treat. Total time 2 hours. 5 miles, 500 ft Dr. 0 MMC (SE 43rd & Stark) 6 p.m.

HK B2 Jun 29 (Sat) Wildcat Moun-tain (McIntyre Ridge). Rex Breun-sbach 971-832-2556. Wilderness—Limit 12. Stunning views of Mt. Hood and the Willamette Valley. Flowers should be plentiful. 10.2 miles 1800 ft. Dr. 80 Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Jun 29 (Sat) Devil’s Peak Lookout (Cool Creek). David Nel-son 503-657-4058. Wilderness—Limit 12. This is a great conditioner to start your week off. We will hike

up the Cool Creek trail to the old fire lookout, have lunch, explore the lookout and enjoy the views be-fore hiking back down. Great views of Mt. Hood, Mt. Adams and Mt. Jefferson. Contact leader at [email protected] to pre-register and discuss meeting location. 8.2 miles 3,200 ft. Dr. 84 TH Contact Leader for details 8 a.m.

HK A1.5 Jun 30 (Sun) Twin Lakes. Richard Getgen [email protected]. Wilderness—Limit 12.

Loop hike from Wapinita Pass. Fol-low PCT to pair of lakes and onto Palmateer Point. 8.6 miles 1,200 ft. Dr. 120 TH Gateway 8 a.m.

HK C2 Jun 30 (Sun) Elk-Kings Traverse. Sojo Hendrix 971-221-9675. Challenging hike in the coast range on trails that we maintain (Kings Mt. trail-tending scheduled for June 15). 11 miles 4,600 ft. Dr. 66 Sunset Transit Center (NE Cor-ner), Hwy26/217 8 a.m.

Hiker in the gorge. Photo: Jesse Farrah

June 2013—29

Applications for Membership: ....................................................30

Reinstatements: ......................................................................10James Begg (2010), Merle Clifton (2006), Julia Corson (2003), Kit Irelan (2005), Kyle Kruger (2012), Tony Moy (2007), Thomas Sandahl (2008), Timothy Schofield (2004), Elliot Shuford (2007), Ida Thorbek (2001)

Deceased: ............................................................................... 1Charles “Bud” Young

TOTAL MEMBERSHIP

Net New Members ..................................................................40Apr. 30, 2013: ................................................................... 3,255Apr. 30, 2012: ................................................................... 3,113

Membership Report • April 2013

Scott Baumberger—Mt. HoodJeff Beal—Mt. St. HelensTimothy Bell—Mt. RainierBrennen Bendel—South SisterThomas Delaney—Mt. HoodMark Eiselt—Mt. OlympusChristopher Fangher—Mt. HoodCharles Gallia—Mt. HoodDarrin Gunkel—Mt AdamsTamara Haspels—Mt. St. HelensBruce Howell—Mt. BaldyMike Klepfer—Old SnowyPatrick Laubacher—Mt. HoodClaire Leake—Mt. AdamsMiranda Mikesh—Mt. St. Helens

Jolen Anya Minetz—Mt. RainierMichael Myers—South SisterAnsuya Negi—Old SnowyLisa Norwood—Mt. St. HelensTommy Norwood—Mt. AdamsRuth Oman—Mt. Adams Sergio Perez—Mt. BakerElizabeth Puskar—Mt. St. HelensKristin Revell—South SisterBrandon Schwartz—Mt. AdamsSusan Shih—Mt. OlympusLindsey Stallard—South SisterJustin Thibeault—Mt. St. HelensChris Tinnin—Mt. AdamsLea Wilson—Mt. A

Nominations Sought for Honorary Mazama Membership

Honorary members are those who, in the words of the Mazama by-laws, “have rendered distinguished service to the Mazamas or who are eminent for achievement over a period of not less than 10 years in climbing, conservation, exploration, scientific research or outdoor activities.” Each year only one person may be elected. Any Mazama member may submit the name of a candidate. A nominating committee made up of the chairpersons of all standing committees will consider all proposed names. If the committee finds that a person is qualified and the purposes of the Mazamas would be furthered by the nomination, the nomination shall be presented to the Executive Council. To assist the nominating committee and the council in making an informed choice, nominations must be accompanied by a statement detailing a candidate’s qualifications. Please submit nominations to Mazama Executive Council Member Meg Goldberg for consideration at [email protected].

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Submitted by: Meg Goldberg, EC Secretary

In Attendance: Executive Council Members: Bronson Potter–Vice President; Terry Donahe–Treasurer; Meg Goldberg–Secretary, Judith Baker, Dyanne Foster, Sojo Hendrix, Bill McLoughlin, Joan Zuber. Absent: Doug Couch

Bronson Potter called the meeting to order at 6:31 p.m.

The minutes of the April 9, 2013, meeting minutes were approved.

Membership Report: Oral report by Meg Goldberg. There were 30 applications for membership and 10 reinstatements. Total membership as of April 30, 2013 is 3,255. This is an increase of 142 members since last year this time.

Treasurer’s Report: Written report submitted by Terry Donahe. Report filed for audit.

Executive Director’s Report: Oral report by Lee Davis. Lee’s complete report is available on page 3.

Written Committee Reports Pre-Submitted: • Conservation Committee. • Climbing Committee• Financial Affairs • Outings CommitteeThe reports were unanimously

approved and received on the consent agenda.

Committees with no reports submitted:• AYM• CISM• Old-Timers • Trail Trips• Strategic Planning Regular Committee ReportsConservation Committee. Written

request by chairs John Rettig and Barbara Weiss for approval to continue as co-chairs of the Conservation Committee. Motion by Bill McLoughlin to approve John and Barbara as co-chairs. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: approved.

Expedition Committee: Requests approval of six grants (three Alpine Adventure and three Monty Smith Memorial Grants). Sojo Hendrix moves to approve the grant requests. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action: Approved.

Research Committee: Requests approval of $14,385.16 from the committee’s budget for research projects. Judith Baker moves to approve the budget request for research projects. Motion seconded. Motion approved. Action: Passed.

New BusinessSecond Quarter Reforecast Report.

Chris Simmons, chair of Financial Affairs, reported that overall the forecast anticipates a $33,497 year-end deficit. This is $703.00 below the budgeted deficit of $34,200.

Upsides • Activity programs are forecasting $1,669

favorable to budget.• Expedition Committee is forecasting

$1,196 favorable to budget due to reduced expenses and income from Skill-Builders.

• Management and General is forecasting $722 favorable to budget

• Executive Council is forecasting $3500 favorable to budget.

• MMC is forecasting $3,510 unfavorable to budget due primarily to low rental income.

• Mazama Lodge is forecasting $978 favorable to budget.

• ICS is forecasting $7,600 favorable to budget primarily due to anticipated lower mileage and lodge expenses.

Downsides• Member Services is forecasting $1,940

unfavorable to budget.• Annual Celebration finished $2,122

unfavorable to budget; however, it was still profitable with net income of $2,278.

• Educational programs are forecasting

just $726 unfavorable to budget.• BCEP is forecasting $5,895 unfavorable

to budget due to lower than anticipated registration. Running EBCEP will net an additional $4,000.

• First Aid is forecasting $2,952 unfavorable to budget as an anticipated summer MFA class will not be held.

• Ski Mountaineering is forecasting $1,890 unfavorable to budget primarily due to increased Avy II expenses.

• Operational budget does not include capital expenses (engineering for lodge parking, lodge shower stall.Status Update on National Partnerships.

Executive Director Lee Davis reported that he is continuing discussions with the Access Fund and the American Alpine Club about possible partnerships.

Status Update Capital Projects: Executive Director Lee Davis reported he will need to do some fundraising but overall the upcoming capital needs are reasonable.

ASI Ice Climbing Walls: Executive Director Lee Davis reported that ASI would like to have ice climbing walls installed in the MMC auditorium. The walls would be designed and built by ENTRE-PRISES in Bend. The upfront design cost is $3,000. There is a current donation ear-marked for the project and 4,100 is available from the gift for the current climbing walls. The rest of the cost will be paid for through fundraising headed up by Richard Caldwell. The walls can be used for Skill-Builders for ICS and as regular walls for BCEP and AR. Motion by Bill McLoughlin to approve $3,000 for the design phase by ENTRE-PRISE. Motion seconded. Motion passed. Action approved.

Meeting adjourned at 8:15 p.m.Council went into executive sessionNext Executive Council Meeting:

Tuesday, May 14, 2013, at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC

Executive Council MinutesMay 14, 2013

Executive Council Meetings —2nd Tuesday of the month at 6:30 p.m. at the MMC. All members are welcome to attend.

June 2013—31

Mazamas®527 SE 43rd Ave.Portland OR 97215www.mazamas.orgADDRESS SERVICE REqUESTED

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Front cover photo: Shirley Chalupa pulling the photogenic exit on pitch 2 of Blazing Saddles in Squamish, Wash., May 2013. Photo: Radek Chalupa.

Below: A hard core Mazama team getting it done on Mt. Hood despite tough weather conditions. Photo: Vaqas Malik.

june mazama bulletin

Documents

climbing area

new climbing

established climbing

trout creek climbing

golden eagle nesting

golden eagle activity

golden eagles nest

nesting season