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IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONS175 AUTHENTIC CAJUN, CREOLE, AND CARIBBEAN DISHESBY JESSICA B. HARRIS

COPYRIGHT 1989Ballantine BooksContents

IntroductionIngredients and UtensilsAppetizersSoupsSauces and CondimentsVegetables and SaladsStarchesMain DishesDesserts and CandiesBeveragesnext page1$20$37$58$75$97$118$161$178$*WHEN CLICKING CTRL + F TO SEARCH FOR THE CHAPTER, INCLUDE THE $ SIGN AFTER THE PAGE NUMBER TO QUICKLY GO TO THAT PAGE. IntroductionIn my mind's eye there is a crescent, a sinuous imaginary line that begins on Mauritania's coast and sweeps downward along Africa's palm-fringed beaches from the buff-colored sand dunes of Senegal and Mauritania, through the lagoons of the Ivory Coast and beyond, to Togo, Benin, and Nigeria, then down to the forested regions of countries with names like drumbeats: Congo, Gabon, Angola. This same line continues to sweep across the Atlantic, carrying with it music, gesture, speech, dance, joie de vivre, and... yes, food.On the other side of the Atlantic, it washes ashore on equally palm-fringed beaches that mirror those of the African littoral. These have names like Salvador da Bahia, Recife, and Sao Luiz. The curve moves lazily across South America through Ecuador and Colombia, where it meets other ancient cultures. It heads north to Guyane, Guyana, and Surinam and then begins a climb upward through the multicultural islands of the Caribbean. It jumps up to steel drum music in Trinidad while savoring roti; swings suggestively to the beguine while sipping a ti-punch in Guadeloupe. It speaks French, Spanish, Dutch, and English. It lingers for a while in the Creole areas of New Orleans, where the streets are perfumed with the aroma of pralines, and sets a spell in Charleston, where the words drip with molasses and magnolias. The cultural crescent finds rest in the barrios and neighbor-xiIRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONShoods of the rural South and the urban North in the homes of those of African descent.This line is not static; it is mutabiea lifelinean umbilicus. Its flow has enriched the mother continent, Africa, and the New World. It is a conductor of people and of culture. It has brought to the New World Africa's rhythms, Africa's spirit, andperhaps most pervasivelyAfrica's food.Some scholars argue that Africans first came into contact with the New World before Columbus. If so, Africa's influences on New World cooking go back over five hundred years. What is sure is that they go back almost to Columbus's arrival on these shores. In fact, the culinary histories of the New World and African cooking as it is today are so intermingled that it is almost impossible to separate them. Many Africans would argue that chile peppers, vital to much West African cooking, are indigenous to Africa, when in fact they had their origins in the New World. Watermelon, on the other hand, the quintessential American summer dessert, has its origins on the African continent, where it has been cultivated for many centuries.The reciprocal flow of foodstuffs from the New World to Africa and back, along with the European influence on the West African diet, makes it virtually impossible to trace food trends with absolute accuracy. The African continent's cooking has changed radically, however, because of the foods introduced as a result of the voyages of discovery. From the mid-sixteenth to the end of the eighteenth century, the eating habits of Africa were transformed. The coconut tree arrived from South Asia at some time between 1520 and 1540; sweet potatoes and maize came from America in the same century. The seventeenth century saw the arrival of cassava and pineapple, while the eighteenth brought guavas and peanuts. All became so integrally a part of the African diet as to be truly African foods.These changes make it impossible to trace yesterday's X11IIntroductionculinary influences using today's recipes. But looking at today's cooking in Africa and its counterparts in the New World, it is impossible not to be amazed at the similarity of methods of preparation, ingredients, and tastes.It all started in Africa. Scholars have researched old Arab manuscripts and discovered some of the foodstuffs that were eaten by West Africans during the European Middle Ages. Reports of Arab travelers reveal that the African diet was somewhat similar to that of today. Grains played a major part in cooking. Ibn al-Faqih al-Hamadhani, the earliest known Arabic author to write about the foods of the West African peoples, emphasizes the role played by cultivated plants in the diets of people in the area that is now Mauritania and Mali. He mentions that they ate beans and a kind of millet known as dukhn. Other grains eaten by Africans during this period included some forms of sorghum, wheat, and rice. These grains were made into thick porridges, pancakes, fritters, bread, and various puddings served under a variety of sauces. Yams' (Dioscorea cayenensis and Dioscorea rotun-data), were also a major part of the local diet. The yam had an almost religious importance in many West African kingdoms. In ancient Mali, the execution of a criminal by beheading in a yam field was a central part of a ritual to ensure the fertility of the crops. Other ancient kingdoms also had yam festivals, and even today the harvesting of the yam crop is cause for celebration in parts of Ghana and Nigeria, and yam festivals are also held in the great Candomble houses of Bahia, Brazil.Beans too formed a major part of the West African diet before European arrival. As early as 901 a.d., there are mentions of kidney beans and black-eyed peas. Broad beans, chick-peas, and lentils were also eaten.All manner of green leafy vegetables were consumed, as were onions and garlic. Other foodstuffs included tur-1. For a discussion of the naming of yams and yams vs. sweet potatoes, see page 97.

/KON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSnips, cabbage, pumpkins and gourds, and even cucumbers. The earth's bounty also extended to fruit, and during this period West Africans are known to have eaten watermelon, tamarind, ackee, plums, dates, figs, and pomegranates. Meats included beef, lamb, goat, camel, poultry, and varieties of game and fish.Meat was usually boiled or roasted. When fresh meat was not available, dried, smoked, or salted meats or fish were substituted. These were usually combined with vegetables and cooked with shea butter (an African vegetable butter), sesame oil, or palm oil, the three main cooking oils of the area. Seasonings consisted of spices such as melegueta pepper or grains of paradise, ginger, and aromatic spices imported from North Africa. Salt was available but used sparingly. The resulting dish was usually served with a starch, which was dipped in the stew or sauce. Alternatively, the starch was served as a base on which the sauce was served. The whole was washed down with watereither plain or sweetened with honey; milk either cow's, goat's, camel's, or sheep's, drunk either sweet (fresh) or sour; and for those in search of a buzz millet beer, mead, or palm wine.European arrival in Africa altered the local diet. First came the Portuguese. The Portuguese are noted for their voyages of exploration. Most people lose sight of the immense role they played in transporting foodstuffs from one area of the globe to another. They are responsible for the transplanting to Africa of those tiny American incendiary chiles that characterize Thai and southern Indian cooking on the Asian land mass. They are also responsible for bringing corn, cassava, and white potatoes to West Africa. Chile peppers and tomatoes, two staples of modern West African cooking, were also transplanted from the New World.Although the voyages of discovery broadened the number of foodstuffs readily available on the African continent, they did not radically change the methods ofIntroductionxvpreparation. Stews and sauces eaten over a starch base or grilled or roasted meats accompanied by a sauce were still the traditional dishes of choice. The ingredients simply became more elaborate.The next major upheaval that would allow African cooking to branch out and tap even deeper into the cooking of the New World was the Atlantic slave trade. This largest forced migration in the history of mankind would transport untold numbers of African slaves from all areas of the continent to the New World, where their condition of servitude would result, more often than not, in their being responsible for the cooking in the Big Houses of the countries to which they were sent. Their service in the kitchen would, directly and subtly, influence the tastes of most of the New World. Their cooking would become the basis for a variety of New World cuisines that triumphantly mix the cooking methods of the Old World Africawith the culinary bounty of the Americas, cuisines that are informed in each spot on the map of the New World by the cooking styles of local European settlers.The migration started on the shores of the West African coast, in places with names like Goree, Elmina, Cape Coast, Ouidah, Calabar, Rio Pongo. When the slaves left their homeland, they took nothing with them, but having arrived on the other side of the Atlantic, they tried, with new materials and some familiar ones, to reproduce the dishes and tastes of the continent they had left behind.James A. Rawley, in his book The Trans-Atlantic Slave Trade, states that on the Middle Passage the slaves were usually fed twice daily. Small tubs of food were set out, and the slaves were given wooden spoons and assembled ten or so to the tub. Ships of different European nations had different meals, and Africans from different areas had different eating habits. A staple on English ships were horse beans that were stored dry and boiled with lard until they formed a pulp. Slavers commented in their logs that Africans had "a good stomach" for beans. Rice from both Europe and Africa was another staple. SometimesIRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSit was prepared with an addition of yams. Meat was rarely a part of the diet. North American slavers fed their cap-rives rice and corn. The rice was boiled and occasionally served with black-eyed peas, while the corn was fried into cakes- Captives from the Bight of Benin were found to be familiar with yams while those from the Windward and Guinea coasts were more accustomed to rice. Frequently, palm oil, flour, water, and pepper were mixed together to produce a gravy given the repellent name of slabber-sauce. Occasionally lemons, limes, corn, and vegetables would appear as part of the diet. The voyage itself was hell, but the food served to help the slaves survive. After reaching a first landfall, either in the outer rim of the Caribbean or at Prince's Island in the eastern Atlantic, they were usually fattened up prior to sale. They were fed nourishing meals designed to camouflage the weight loss and other ailments resulting from the privations of the Middle Passage.Having finally arrived at their destination, the slaves were immediately initiated into the nitty-gritty of food production: In Brazil and the West Indies, they tended the cane fields that would produce the sugar that made millionaires of the plantation owners. In the Carolinas, rice production was a major occupation, while on numerous other plantations in North and South America, slaves were given the task of raising the produce that would serve both the master's table and their own. This was the beginning of a subtle yet pervasive African influence that would forever change the palates of Caribbean peoples, Brazilians, and American southerners. In the Tara-like Casas Grandes of Brazil, the Great Houses of the Caribbean, and the antebellum mansions of the American South, black hands have turned wooden spoons in heavy cast-iron pots for centuries.Reports of foods eaten during the slave centuries indicate that though planters may have attempted to reproduce the cuisine of their mother country on the other side of the Atlantic, a transformation was taking place. In Af- xvnIntroductionrican hands, the recipes were being changed according to local ingredients and African culinary techniques. Spices were being used more intensively in the warmer climates both to disguise spoiled meats and to enhance flavors. Foods were being grilled and vegetables were being added to what in Europe had been mainly a protein and carbohydrate diet. One historian goes so far as to credit the slaves with adding greens and green vegetables to the slaveholder's diet and thereby saving countless numbers from nutritional deficiencies.Testimonies about the food served during the antebellum period in the American South bear witness to its elaborate preparation. Eugene D. Genovese in Roll Jordan Roll: The World the Slaves Made offers the comments of William Howard Russell, a visitor to a Louisiana plantation, about the bounty of the breakfast table: "grilled fowl, prawns, eggs and ham, fish from the coast, potted salmon from England, preserved meats from France, varieties of hominy, mush and African vegetables." The testimonies of many visitors to southern plantations comment on the "genius" of the African cooks. In fact, there are so many mentions of the culinary acumen of the slaves that it would seem to have been a stereotype of the Black man.Recipes that have come down to us from that period indicate that North American slaves substituted cabbage leaves for banana leaves and wrapped foods in them to roast in the embers of wood fires. The rice and black-eyed pea mixture that had sustained many of them on the Middle Passage was transformed into Hoppin' John. Different grasses and herbs were used for their medicinal properties as well as for the variety they gave the menu and, as the saying goes, they ate everything on the pig but the oink! Slaves also took nutritional advantage of many cooking methods, such as savoring the pot liquor or water in which vegetables had been cooked rather than discarding this rich source of vitamins. In time, their taste would win out over much of the South in what GenovesexixIntroductionPOTS AND WOODEN SPOONS

calls "the culinary despotism of the quarters over the Big House."While this was going on in the United States, similar happenings were occurring in Jamaica and throughout the West Indies. Lady Maria Nugent was the wife of the governor of Jamaica, which was the most important of Britain's sugar colonies during the Napoleonic Wars. In a journal she kept of her residence in Jamaica from 1801 to 1805, she comments on the food of the island. Like William Howard Russell in New Orleans, she was particularly impressed with breakfasts in the "creole style," which included "cassava cakes, chocolate, coffee, tea, fruits of all sorts, pigeon pies, hams, tongues, rounds of beef and more." This meal was followed by a second breakfast as elaborate and copious as the first! Dinners she was served included such foods as fish, barbecued hog, fried conch, and black crab pepper pot. Lady Nugent records numerous meals, and many of the dishes would be at home on any well-dressed Jamaican table today. She even tried jerked hog. More sagacious than many of her counterparts, Lady Nugent observed that while many of these dishes were excellent (she even requested the recipe for the black crab pepper pot), they were not well suited to the indolent life of most planters. Those of African descent, however, thrived on the diet, she noted, perhaps because of their labors and their adaptation to the climate.As African cooks transformed the eating habits of planters in the American South, they also went to work in the Great Houses of the Caribbean, and consciously or unconsciously, the Africanization of the New World palate took place. Nowhere was this more evident than in Brazil. Gilberto Freye, in his masterwork on colonial Brazil, The Masters and the Slaves, states that "the African slave dominated the colonial kitchen, enriching it with a variety of new flavors." Of all the elements that the Africans introduced to Brazilian cooking, the use of dende or palmoil and the introduction of the malagueta pepper were by far the most important. Other innovations include the introduction of okra, greater use of the banana, and an increased variety in the methods of cooking and the spices and other seasonings used. Today, the foods of the states of Bahia, Pernambuco, and Maranhao, located in the northeastern region of Brazil that was home to the great sugar plantations, retain these influences. Bahia and its capital city, Salvador da Bahia de Todos os Santos, the first capital of Brazil, is the spiritual home of much Afro-Brazilian food.Reports of eating habits in colonial Brazil during the period when Bahia was the capital reveal an astonishing number of African and African-inspired dishes. Writers mention that Black women made a variety of dishes at home and then sold them from trays in the streets. Sometimes, in true African tradition, the women would set up small fires and fill caldrons with bubbling oil to produce freshly made fritters and other goodies. At times, the women selling these foods were free Blacks, but frequently they were slaves, and the profits they made from their cooking went to their mistresses.Some of the delicacies sold were acac,a, a Yoruba dish of flour and corn fried or steamed in a banana leaf; abara, a dish of cooked beans seasoned with hot chiles and palm oil; acaraje, fried black-eyed pea fritters served with a filling of dried smoked shrimp, hot chiles, and more. Sweets included confections using coconut or rice sweetened to tooth-tingling intensity with honey or cane sugar. The variety was astonishing, and the savory dishes had a similarity to foods served especially in the Gulf of Benin region of West Africa (Togo, Benin, and Nigeria). Many of them even retained their African names. The sweet dishes bore more of a Portuguese flavor, although it might be argued that the Lusitanian sweet tooth was inherited from their Moorish conquerers and is also African in origin.One particularly fascinating aspect of Brazilian cookingxxiIntroduction

IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSis the manner in which the ritual foods of the Candomble religion were secularized and became emblematic of the Afro-Brazilian cuisine. The acaraje, abara, and acaga that were cooked and sold by Black women in the streets of Bahia, Rio, and Sao Paulo were the favored foods of the African gods, or Orisha, that the slaves had transported with them from Benin and Nigeria.It has become a cliche" to say that a certain type of cuisine is ambrosial, but in the case of Afro-Brazilian foods, the cooking is truly fit for the gods. Many of the women who sat on the streets selling their culinary wares and many of the Big House cooks were also priestesses of Candomble. This West African religion places particular emphasis on food, with the iya basse or ritual cook playing an important role in all the ritual ceremonies.All of the Orishas, or Yoruba gods, have a particular set of foods that are served as part of their ceremonies. Elegba, Owner of the Crossroads, and the one without whom no ceremony can begin, is fond of cachac.a, Brazil's raw rum. Ogun, the Orisha of iron and people who work with metals, has a love for feijoada, the black bean and salted meat stew that has become the national dish of Brazil. Yansan, the goddess of tempests and guardian of the cemeteries, has a preference for oval acaraje" or bean fritters, while Shango, ruler of thunder, prefers round ones. The ibeji or twin gods have an annual caruru prepared for them in the homes of twins. Oshun, Goddess of Love and Money, loves honey. Oxala, King of the White Cloth, eats only foods that are white or light in color, prepared without orange-hued palm oil. The list continues, with particular instructions as to how each Orisha's food must be prepared. Soon, though, not only were the African Orisha eating feijoada and acaraje, but the foods had become an integral part of Brazil's culinary repertoire, and today many do not even remember their African ritual origins.In other South American countries, with the exception of Guyane, Guyana, and Surinam, the African influenceis less marked than it is in Brazil. Nonetheless, it is possible to distinguish African influences in the coastal regions of Colombia, Ecuador, Venezuela and other locales settled by Africa's descendants. Foods in these areas are intensely spiced, and African methods of preparation areapparent.Today 1n Latin America and the Caribbean, people of African descent are still eating the food their ancestors loved. Similarities between African and New World dishes are abundant. A visit to markets in Black neighborhoods in North America or to any of the open air markets of the Caribbean or South America bears this out. Peppers and pepper sauces can be found in abundance, greens of all varieties are set out, dried and smoked fish are stacked next to a variety of roots and tubers that would baffle most western cooks.Entering a market in the New World, I am always struck by its resemblance to those in Africa. In Haiti, the smell of wood-burning fires transports me with Proustian swiftness to the night market of Cocody in Abidjan, Ivory Coast, where amid the pungent wood smoke of what seem to be hundreds of braziers, it is possible to purchase grilled chicken and skewers of meat that has been basted with fiery hot green chiles and done to the proverbial turn. In Haiti, the fare is likely to be different, as the fires are for heavy caldrons from which fritters are served up to hungry shoppers. At times, though, the scenes become confused: the small tin lanterns made from condensed milk cans that burn in the evening in Haitian markets are the same as those that light the night markets in Cotonou, Benin. The women who sell akkra from boiling caldrons of palm oil at the Dan Tokpa market in Cotonou are selling the same foods as their sisters dressed in white lace, turbans, and ropes of beads in Salvador da Bahia. The glistening bounty of multihued fish is the same in Trinidad and Martinique, and the sounds and sights and smells of the market are the same as those at Soumbedioune, the fisherman's market in Dakar, Senegal. The rotund womenIRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSfrying fish near Baxter's Road in Bridgetown, Barbados, are first cousins to those serving greens from a steam table in Harlem or turning a copper pot full of praline mixture in the New Orleans French Market (the oldest continuously used open market in the United States). The smiles, the gnarled hands, the care and love that go into the food, the pickiness about ingredients and seasoning, all are the same whether in Point-a-Pitre, Guadeloupe; Charleston, South Carolina; Bahia, Brazil; New York City, or anywhere on the African continent. In truth, and in more ways than one, African cooking on the continent and in the New World can be summed up in one sentence: Same Boat, Different Stops.A TALE OF MANY COOKSTraditional foods trace a gossamer thin line as far back as I can remember or discover in my family. It is a tradition that I maintain and will pass on. Grandma Jones's banana frittersborn of the necessity of feeding a family of twelve during the Depressioncut the bad spots off the overripe bananas that no one wants and make frittershave become a food that I now crave. But more than the tale of one family, the history of Black cooking is a tafe of many cooks.Traveling along the cultural continuum that stretches from Africa to the New World in search of material for this book, I have watched many Black cooks in many parts of the world. The similarities of method were astonishing. A friend suggested that a good subtitle for this book might be "First wash your hands." Indeed, the cleanliness evidenced by cooks in the direst of conditions deserves mention here.In Africa, I have watched friends cook both European and African style over tripod wood burners or cast-iron feu Malagache, as they are called in the French-speaking countries. I have watched miracles produced when the chef's entire batterie de cuisine consisted of a large XXlllIntroductionwooden spoon and a heavy aluminum cookpot. African and African-inspired cooking is a cooking of adversity even in plenty there is necessity and no waste. Little is discarded, and frequently the discards from one meal serve as the basis for another. I have watched in Abidjan, Ivory Coast, as a woman prepared a "mess of greens" that would have made my paternal grandmother smile. Most of the ingredients would have been familiar to her except that instead of the smoked pork my grandmother would have used for seasoning, my African friend used smoked fish and a few tablespoons of palm oil.On the African continent, I have been repeatedly struck by meeting old tastes with new names: Hoppin' John, rice and peas, and Morros y Cristianos appeared as Thiebou Niebe, and Callaloo was known as Soupikandia. The journey was a long one in miles, but a short trip in tastes.In some areas the similarities were even more obvious. Guadeloupe and Martinique's Matoutou Crabes is a direct descendant of Benin's Ago Glain, and many of Brazil's Afro-Bahian dishes maintain their African names along with their African taste.Culinary techniques become a bit more sophisticated in the New World, where African tradition meets European technology. Yet the preeminence of the wooden cooking spoon and the tendency to shake, pinch, dash, dab, and otherwise "cook with the tastebuds" is maintained. In Martinique, I've watched as a lone cook prepared a meal for eight in less than half an hour, swiftly moving back and forth between refrigerator, preparation area, and stove in a minuscule kitchen with one wall open to the outdoors.Heavy black cast-iron pots, caldrons, and skillets are a leitmotiv of Black cooking. Without them there is no Brazilian Acaraje, no Nigerian Akkra Fun Fun, no Fried Fish Baxter's Road style in Barbados, and no Southern Fried Chicken. My paternal grandmother, Grandma Harris, presented my mother with a caldron and skillet when she got married. These utensils, though at first disdained,IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONShave done over half a century's yeoman's duty in our kitchen. One day they will be mine.Fate has placed me at the juncture of two Black culinary traditions: that of the Big House and that of the rural South. The Jones family always held reunions at table. Early childhood memories are filled with images of groaning boards, of "put up" preserved peaches, seckle pears, and watermelon rinds, of "cool drinks" such as minted lemonade and iced tea served in cut-glass pitchers, of freshly baked Parker House rolls and yeast breads. The Harris side of the family were no slouches at "chowing down" either. Grandma Harris insisted on fresh produce, and some of my early memories are of her gardening in a small plot where she lived, tending foods that I would later come to know as African: okra, collard greens, black-eyed peas, and peanuts. Breakfasts at her house were always occasions for beaten biscuits served dripping with Alaga syrup (none of that thin maple syrup nonsense!) into which bits of butter had been mixed, streaky bacon, and grits.My mother, who trained as a dietitian but was discouraged from work in the food presentation field in which she excelled because of race, took her talents home. Each night was a feast. No frozen dinners or cake mixes ever crossed our threshold. Made-from-scratch cakes, flaky pie crusts, and intricate finger sandwiches went along with the traditional African-inspired foods that my father loved.I am the most recent link in the chain, bringing international inspiration and a sense of history. A friend asked me one evening, when the discussion turned to food as is frequent at my house, "What happens if a recipe is not passed on?" I replied automatically, "It dies." This has happened too often. I hope that this book will fix the taste of cornbread, beans, collard greens, okra, chiles, molasses, and rum on our tongues for generations to come.The Negro is a born cook. He could neither read nor write, and therefore he could not learn from books. He was simply inspired; the god of the spit and the saucepan had breathed into him; that was enough.Charles Gayarre, Harper's Magazine, 1880

1$INGREDIENTS AND UTENSILSACHIOTEAchiote is sometimes called annatto, urucu, or roucou. It was used by the early Caribbean Indians to color their bodies. Today it is also a colorant, but for food. It is frequently used in Latin American and Caribbean cooking and is mixed with lard and oil to give a bright saffron yellow color to rice and other foods. Although I have not been able to find any documentation, it seems that this cooking method and certainly the color of the annatto or manteca de achiote, bears distinct similarities to the palm oil used in West African cooking.Achiote seeds should be purchased when they are bright in color. Once they have turned brown, they have lost much of their flavor. The seeds may be kept indefinitely in a tightly covered jar in a cool, dark place.ACKEEThis fruit pod is chiefly found in Jamaica, where it is the main ingredient in the national breakfast dishAckee and Saltfish. Ackee is the meat of a fruit that looks a bit like a pink mango or guava until it has ripened. Then it bursts open, exposing the yellow meat with its characteristic black seeds. Until the ackee has ripened naturally, it is poisonous.Ackee is frequently found in canned form in the United States and Europe, and therefore we do not have to worry about its ripeness.ALLSPICESometimes known as Jamaica pepper or pimento, this pepperlike berry is sold ground or whole and used to prepare everything from Rum Punch (page 180), where a dash is traditional, to jerked pork, another Jamaican delicacy. The whole tree gets into the act with jerked foods, as they are traditionally grilled over a fire of allspice branches.AMCHARThis condiment is an Indian addition to the cooking of Trinidad and Tobago. It is prepared from either green mangoes or tamarind. Amchar is traditionally served as an accompaniment to Roti and to many of the Trinidadian curries (page 142).AMENDOINThis is the Portuguese word for peanut. In Brazil they are frequently powdered to become an ingredient in such dishes as Vatapa (page 112).ARROWROOTThis rhizome is dried and powdered into one of the most easily digested of all starches. It is used in preference to cornstarch to thicken sauces. The majority of the world's supply of arrowroot comes from St. Vincent in the Caribbean.ATAREAlso called grains of paradise or melegueta pepper, this pod produces small seeds that are biting to the taste, much like black pepper. This is not a true pepper, but it is thought to have been used instead of pepper in West Africa before pepper was brought from the Indies and chiles from the Americas. The condiment is still used today in Nigerian and Beninoise cooking and in the ritual cooking of Brazil's Candomble religion.BACALAUThis is the Portuguese term for salted codfish. It is known in the Caribbean as saltfish, or morue on the French-speaking islands. In the days of the Atlantic slave trade, the slave price was paid in Spanish coins, rum, or salted codfish. Bacalau was also occasionally used as a food on the long Middle Passage. The dried planklike pieces of fish are soaked to remove the salt (page 30) and then used in a variety of Caribbean and Latin American dishes such as Accras de Morue (page 29).In selecting a piece of salted codfish, it is best to look for one with white flesh rather than yellow flesh, which indicates age.BANANASChiquita notwithstanding, we in the northern climes may never know the true range of bananas. The popularity of Caribbean foods has made us familiar with fried plantains and with plantain chips as an alternative to potato chips, but we have yet to taste many of the different varieties.From Benin's Fried Plantain (page 82) to my grandmother's banana fritters, we're learning new ways to use this fruit beyond slicing over corn flakes.Banana leaves provide an extra plus for the African culinary tradition. They are used on both sides of the Atlantic to wrap up foods to be poached or steamed or baked. Aluminum foil and kitchen parchment can be used as substitutes but cannot add the subtle flavor or authenticity of a banana leaf.BEANSOne of the ingredients of many African dishes, beans find myriad uses in the culinary repertoire of African-inspired cooks. They are sure to have been a major part of the African diet before the arrival of Europeans and remain so today. Some of the types most often used are black beans (sometimes called turtle beans), kidney beans, lima beans (sometimes called butter beans), red beans, pinto beans, pink beans, and great northern beans.

BENNEThis is a southern U.S. (South Carolina in particular) term for sesame seeds. The seeds are used in the American South to season wafers and brittles similar to peanut brittle.Sesame seeds can be purchased either hulled or un-hulled in most health food stores. They can be toasted for greater flavor in a dry skillet, stirring to prevent sticking. (They will pop.) Sesame seeds will keep indefinitely when stored in the refrigerator but should be used immediately following toasting or they will lose their flavor.BLACK-EYED PEASAlthough called black-eyed peas in some parts of the world, these are indeed beans, and one of the most frequently used beans in African, Latin American, and Black American cooking. They are used for everything from main dishes (page 118) to salads such as Pickled Black-Eyed Peas (page 71). It is traditional among Black Americans to eat black-eyed peas for good luck on New Year's Day, and many otherwise cynical folk would not dream of letting January 1 go by without tasting a black-eyed pea.BREADFRUITThis is an import that Captain Bligh of Bounty mutiny fame brought to the Americas. The large, round, soccer ball-sized fruit provides starch in many Caribbean dishes. Eaten either green or ripe, breadfruit can be substituted for white potatoes in almost any recipe. It is perhaps most interesting when served alone as Fried Breadfruit (page 85).CALABAZAThis is sometimes referred to simply as pumpkin or West Indian pumpkin. It is a yellow-skinned pumpkinlike squash that is frequently used as a vegetable in Caribbean and Latin American dishes. It can be found in Latin American markets, where it is sold by the piece. If calabaza is unavailable, Hubbard or butternut squash can be substituted. The whole calabaza can be stored for several months in a cool, dry place. Once cut, however, the calabaza will keep in the refrigerator for a few days. Calabaza, not the Halloween pumpkin we know, is the basis for the Caribbean's famous Pumpkin Soup (page 52).CALLALOOThis is the name of a classic Caribbean soup and also the name of the greens that go into the soup. Two different leaves are called callaloo: the elephant-ear-shaped leaf of the plant that is variously known as dasheen, tannia, yau-tia, and taro in the Caribbean, and Chinese spinach, which is sometimes called bhaji, its Indian name, in Jamaica and Trinidad. Canned callaloo is available, but spinach can be substituted.CANARIThis is not a songbird but the name of an earthenware cooking vessel that is used in the preparation of many slow-cooking West African stews such as the Ivory Coast's Kedjenou (page 143).CANE SYRUPThis sugar syrup is used in making the Ti-Punch that is the ubiquitous drink of the French Antilles. A simple sugar syrup is a good substitute.CASSAREEPThe juice of boiled-down grated cassava, flavored with brown sugar, cinnamon, cloves, and other ingredients, cassareep is one of the major seasonings used in several Guyanese stews.CASSAVAAlso known as manioc, mandioca, or yucca, this starchy tuber is eaten in Latin America, West Africa, and the Caribbean. It is used as a vegetable in many stews and main dishes. When dried and ground into a flour, it becomes Brazil's farinha or Benin's gari. It is the basis of Nigeria's egba, about which West Africans laughingly joke, "Egba makes you strong," when seeing a hefty soul from Nigeria. It is one of the African and Afro-American staples.CHAYOTEAlso known as christophine, chocho, mirliton, mango squash, xuxu, and vegetable pear, this mild-flavored squash is used in everything from soups to main dishes. In some parts of the Caribbean, it is served on its own as in Salade de Christophines (page 93) or stuffed into its own shell, as in Gratin de Christophines (page 86). The peel and the soft seeds of the young chayote are edible. It will keep for up to three weeks in the refrigerator.CHERIMOYASometimes called a custard apple, this green-skinned fruit has a custardlike flesh that tastes like a mixture of vanilla ice cream and banana. It is frequently used as the basis for a fabulous tropical ice cream and sorbet.CHILESSee page 58.CHITTERLINGSThere is no polite way to describe chitterlings, or chitlins as they are more frequently called. They are quite simply the small intestines of a pig. For obvious reasons, they should be cleaned thoroughly before cooking. In many Black American households eating someone's chitlins is the ultimate admission of culinary confidence. The smell of cooking chitlins has put more than one person off eating them, but those who persevere, and I am not an aficionado, testify to their deliciousness.Chitlins can be purchased at butcher shops and supermarkets in Black neighborhoods, and no matter how many times "cleaned" is written on the package they should always be cleaned again at home by turning them inside out and soaking them in salted water for at least twenty-four hours. They are traditionally served boiled (page 151). A final word for those of you who have been eating andouille with gusto in Francesurprise, they're chitlins French style.CHRISTOPHINE See Chayote.COCONUTFrom coconut water, to jelly coconuts, to coconut candy to coconut cake passing through coconut rum, and coconut flan, the nut of this palm tree, which has figured on both sides of the Atlantic, offers a bounty for cooks. Many dishes, such as Bahia's Moqueca de Peixe (page 127), use coconut milk in their preparation, while others depend on coconut oil. This is one fruit that can sustain one through a whole meal, from Coconut Savories (page 22) as appetizers to a sip of coconut liqueur as an after dinner drink.COLOMBOSee Curry.COLLARDSThese are one of the greens traditionally eaten in the American South. They are sometimes called collard greens and are usually served "boiled down to a low gravy," that is, slow-cooked in their own juices (called pot liquor) (page 76).CONCHCalled Iambi in Haiti, this mollusk is widely enjoyed in the Caribbean, where Conch Chowder (page 50), Conch Salad (page 96), and other conch dishes abound.CORIANDERThe leaves of this plant, which is sometimes called Chinese parsley or cilantro, are used in Brazilian cooking. It is mentioned in Africa as far back as the Egyptian Ebers Papyrus, although it was brought to the New World by the Spaniards. The seed pods and seeds are used to flavor many of the curries of the Caribbean islands.COURT BOUILLONThis is not at all like the French court bouillon. It is adish prepared with red snapper or other fish (page 149).COWPEASee Black-eyed Peas.CRAPAUDThis is a French word used to describe the large frogs that can be found on the islands of Montserrat and Dominica. They are also sometimes known as mountain chickens.CURRYTransported to the New World from India, this mixture of spices varies from island to island. Trinidadian curries tend to be fiery hot; Jamaican ones are milder. Curry is the basis of Trinidad and Tobago's Roti, a chicken or vegetable curry wrapped in a flat, pancakelike bread. In Guyana, they eat their curry with Roti but dip the Roti in the curry rather than wrapping the curry in it (page110).DASHEENSee Calfaloo.DEMERARA SUGARThis fine-quality brown sugar has a bit of the taste of the cane in it. Some people believe this gives it a subtle rum-like flavor. This sugar and its close cousin, Barbados sugar, can be used instead of brown sugar in any recipe. It can be found in health food stores.DENDEThis is the Brazilian term for the orange-hued palm oil that characterizes so much of Afro-Brazilian cooking. Palm oil comes in a variety of strengths ranging from almost opaque to transparent. I prefer the lighter palm oil from Brazil or, when 1 can get it, fresh palm oil from Benin's Dan Tokpa market. Many people find palm oil difficult to digest; I have laughingly said that it has prodigious laxative qualities. It is a major ingredient in such dishes as Benin's Ago Glain (page 146-147) and Brazil's Moquecas. Some people may wish to add the flavor without all the palm oil. I frequently mix equal parts of peanut oil and palm oil instead of using palm oil alone. Palm oil is highly saturated. It works in dishes from Brazil and West Africa where it is mixed with other foods that balance its strength. Eaten in moderation, it presents no hazard to health. People watching their cholesterol intake, however, might wish to approximate the color of palm oil, if not the flavor, by using a mixture of peanut oil and paprika. One tablespoon of paprika steeped in one cup of peanut oil for forty-five minutes and then strained out will have a similar hue.DJON-DJONThese are tiny black mushrooms that are available in Haiti and are used to add color and flavor to local dishes such as Riz au Djon-Djon (page 116). If Djon-Djon cannot be located, it is possible to substitute dried European or Asian mushrooms for an approximate taste.DRIED SHRIMPDried smoked shrimp are found in both West African and Afro-Brazilian cooking. They can be purchased in Asian markets.

11 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSIngredients and Utensils

EFOThis is a Nigerian term that refers to a type of spinach. By extension, it is used to refer to any number of leafy greens. Mustard or collard greens, kale, or beet tops can be substituted.

EGUSIEgusi is a Nigerian term for an African "melon" that is a cross between a gourd and a pumpkin. Egusi is prized for its seeds, which are eaten whole as snacks (page 24), or dried and ground to be added to soups and stews as a thickener.The seeds are imported and can be found canned or powdered in African markets.FARINHAThis is the Brazilian term for the flour made from dried cassava. In Brazil it is used as a basis for Farofa (page 61-62) or sprinkled over dishes such as black beans to add crunch and texture. Manioc (cassava) flour is called gari in Benin, West Africa.FATBACKThis is the clear fat from the back of a loin of pork. Fatback appears as an ingredient in many southern recipes. When cut into small pieces and fried, it becomes cracklings or cracklins.FILESometimes called gumbo file or sassafras powder, this is one of the native American gifts to the Creole cooking of New Orleans. It is an indispensable ingredient in Gumbo Z'Herbes (page 159) or Okra Gumbo (page 158).GARISee Farinha.GEERAThis is an Indian term for cumin, a spice that is frequently used in the Caribbean. It is an ingredient in homemade curry powders.GINGERThe knobby ginger root appears in a wide variety of dishes in Brazil, the Caribbean, and Africa, where it is an essential ingredient in Ghana's Shellfish Sauce (page 155). It turns up in such beverages as Ginger Beer (page 184) and in West Africa's refreshing Lemouroudji (page 188).GREENSThis is a generic term that applies to all of the leafy green vegetables that might go into the pot boiling on the back of the stove in a traditional Black American household. The greens may be collard greens, mustard greens, kale, spinach, or a combination of all of the above. Greens are slow-cooked and served with a variety of condiments ranging from vinegar to hot sauce to chopped onions (pages 76-77).GROUNDNUTSSee Peanuts.GUAVAThis fruit is native to the Americas. It can be eaten raw but is more frequently found in jellies Jams, and chutneys.HEARTS OF PALMThey really are what they say they are: the heart of a palm tree. Found fresh in the Caribbean and in Brazil, these tender delicacies are also preserved in slightly salted water and sold in cans, which is the form in which most of us know them. At restaurants such as Rio de Janeiro's Marius, they are served abundantly as an accompaniment to churasca (the traditional Brazilian barbecue). They are also very tasty in salads such as Ensalada con Palmito (page 94).

13IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSIngredients and UtensilsHOMINYIntroduced to the early colonists by native Americans, hominy was adopted with a vengeance. Hominy grits (or just grits to aficionados) is the quintessential southern breakfast food. A Black American joke describes good times as being those of grits and gravy; bad times as those of grits and grease; and very bad times as those of no grits at all.Quick-cooking grits are readily available throughout the United States. They can be served as a cereal (page 103), and sophisticates add cheese to make Pepper Grits Souffle (page 104).IGNAMEKnown as a giant or white yam in West Africa, as name in parts of the Caribbean, and also as yautia or tannia, this tuber has nothing to do with that which most Americans call yams. This hairy tuber has white flesh and can weigh up to a quarter of a ton. It is native to West Africa and one of the continent's main staples. It is sometimes french fried or transformed into chips and frequently turns up in the stews and sauces of the region.JAMAICAThis deep red flower of the hibiscus family is sometimes known as sorrel or rosella and in Spanish is referred to as Flor de Jamaica. It is dried, then steeped in water to obtain a cooling drink that tastes slightly like cranberry juice. It is a traditional Caribbean Christmas beverage and is frequently available in West Indian markets at that time of the year.JAMAICA PEPPERSee Allspice.KIDThis is a meat frequently found in West Indian recipes such as Jamaica's Curried Goat (page 145-146). Stewed,roasted, or curried, it has a sweet, slightly gamey taste. It is available in West Indian butcher shops and occasionally from other butchers as well.KUCHELAThis gr^een mango condiment is another of India's gifts to the cooking of Trinidad and Tobago. It is served along with the curries of the area and also occasionally with Roti.LARDRendered fatback (page 10) is known as lard. It is used extensively in traditional Black American cooking. Today, however, the use of lard is diminishing because it is a highly saturated fat. It does, however, add a certain ineffable flavor to dishes like fried chicken and fried fish. It can be found already rendered in the meat counter of most supermarkets. It is called manteca de cerdo in Spanish.LELEA lele or a baton lele is a stirring stick used in Caribbean cooking to whisk up such dishes as Callaloo (page 46) or Migan de Fruit de Pain (a breadfruit puree). A baton lele can be purchased inexpensively in any market on Martinique or Guadeloupe, or it can be easily made from a small branch with three or five smaller branches at the end. Alternately, a wire whisk may be used.LIMESCaribbean limes are small green lemons that turn yellow only when overripe. They are the basis for numerous dishes and are primary ingredients in such drinks as Ti-Punch (page 180) or Rum Punch (page 180). In the French-speaking islands of the Caribbean, they are cut "en palettes," sliced around the center so that each slice is seedless.

15IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSIngredients and Utensils

MALAGUETASee Atare.MANGOThis tropical fruit par excellence, known by some as "the king of fruits," is just now gaining popularity in temperate climates. Mangoes are believed to be native to South and Southeast Asia. They have been in Africa since 1000 a.d. when they were brought by travelers from Persia. They reached the New World in the early eighteenth century courtesy of the Portuguese and arrived in the Caribbean around 1840. Mangoes found their way to Florida and the continental United States in the early part of the nineteenth century.In both the Caribbean and Africa, many meals end with a basket of fresh mangoes being passed around as dessert. There are numerous varieties of mangoes and numerous mango recipes. Of course, they are the major ingredient in Mango Chutney (page 68-69), which appears on Indian tables throughout the Caribbean.Mangoes should be purchased when they are firm but yield slightly to the touch. A sniff will tell if they are aromatic.MANIOCSee Cassava.MIRUTONSee Chayote.MOLASSESThis by-product of the refining of cane sugar is a spicy thread that runs through the history of Blacks in the New World. Molasses was a product in the triangular trade that brought most of the slaves to the New World. Molasses was also one of the primary sweeteners in the United States until the middle of the nineteenth century. The result is that the dark, rich taste of molasses is foundin numerous traditional Black sweets such as Sweet Potato Pie (page 176). Molasses is also used in everything from barbecue sauces to ham glazes.NAME See Igname.toe a snack, an accompaniment to vegetables, or a dessert, you may sprinkle them with salt, chile powder, or powdered sugar.BUDIN DE CALABAZA(PUERTO RICO)Puerto Rico's taste in vegetable dishes reflects its cultural heritage, a mixture of traditional Native American, Spanish, and African. This pudding is reminiscent of the bread, rice, and corn puddings of the United States yet maintains its Caribbean originality through use of the calahaza cooking pumpkin.serves six2 pounds calabaza (page 4-5), peeled and cut up 2 teaspoons salt 4 cups water 3 eggs2 tablespoons unsalted butter teaspoon ground cinnamon teaspoon nutmeg 1/3 cup flour1/3 cup light brown sugar 1/3 cup milkHeat the oven to 400 degrees and grease a 2-quart ceramic or glass baking dish. Bring the calabaza to a boil over medium heat in the salted water and cook it for 20 minutes. Drain the pumpkin and put it through a food mill using the coarse blade. Add the remaining ingredients to the calabaza pur6e and stir well. Put the mixture in the baking dish and bake in the preheated oven for 40 minutes.84 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSPUMPKIN PUREE(ST. LUCIA)This dish, though traditional, would be appropriate to any nouvelie cuisine presentation plate. It offers the tang of calabaza with a faint undertone of nutmeg.serves six 2 pounds calabaza (page 4-5), sliced thin1 medium-sized onion, sliced Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste teaspoon nutmeg2 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 tablespoon heavy creamSteam the calabaza and the onion for half an hour or until tender. Put the calabaza and onion through a food mill using the coarse blade. Add the seasonings and the butter and return to the heat for 2 minutes or until heated through. Remove from the heat, stir in the cream, and serve hot. Pumpkin Puree can be garnished with a sprinkle of nutmeg or with grated toasted fresh coconut.CARIBBEAN RATATOUILLE(ANTIGUA)This is a Caribbean version of a traditional Mediterranean dish. The African accent comes from the okra, while the eggplant and other ingredients speak of its European origin, ft is delicious eaten outdoors on a sunny Caribbean afternoon. No one even questions its origin; there is too much pleasure in simply savoring the mix of the spices and the garden-fresh vegetables that are always found in Caribbean markets.Vegetables and Salads85SKRVKS SIX TO KIGHT2 medium-sized onions, chopped coarse1 clove garlic, minced2 tablespoons olive oil l/4 pound okra, cut into 1-inch rounds1 large eggplant, cubed, with its skin1 cup fresh mushrooms, quartered1 green bell pepper, chopped coarse1 red bell pepper, chopped coarse3 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, seeded, and choppedcoarse teaspoon oregano teaspoon fresh thyme, crumbled Salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteIn a large, heavy saucepan, fry the onions and garlic in the oil until they are soft. Add the remaining ingredients, cover, and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes or until the vegetables are tender but not soggy. Stir occasionally to prevent sticking. Taste for seasoning and serve hot.FRIED BREADFRUIT(DOMINICA)Breadfruit made its way to the Caribbean courtesy of Captain Bligh of HMS Bounty fame as a cheap source of nourishment for the slaves. In 1793 Captain Bligh arrived in Jamaica with a cargo of almost 350 healthy breadfruit plants from the South Pacific. It did not catch on immediately but is now used frequently in Caribbean cooking. Breadfruit is roasted, steamed, used in making "mashes" like Coo Coo (page 102), and fried.SERVES EIGHT TO TF.N1 green but mature breadfruit, about 2 pounds(page 4) 1 cups coconut milk (page 55)2 eggs4 cups vegetable oil for frying86 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSVegetables and Salads

Wash the breadfruit, remove the stem, peel and core it, and cut it into strips. Combine the breadfruit with the coconut milk, bring to a boil, and cook about 20 minutes. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, beat the eggs into a batter. When the breadfruit is fork tender, remove and drain it. In a heavy skillet, heat the oil to 350 to 375 degrees. Dip the breadfruit slices into the beaten egg and fry until golden brown, about 3 to 5 minutes on each side.GRATIN DE CHRISTOPHINES(MARTINIQUE)The christophine is also known as the mirliton in New Orleans and the chayote in Spanish-speaking areas. This white-fleshed tropical vegetable is notable for its ability to take on the flavors of the other foods it is cooked with. One of the ways it is most frequently served both in the Caribbean and in the Creole areas of New Orleans is with grated cheese. The cheese varies from region to region, but the tastes of the squash and the cheese mix to make a dish that is inspired.serves six3 christophine squashes (page 7) 2 medium-sized onions, minced1 tablespoon minced parsley2 tablespoons flour2 tabtespoons olive oil3 tablespoons milkSalt and freshly ground white pepper to taste 1 clove garlic, minced 1 cup grated gruyere cheese 3 tablespoons grated bread crumbs 2 tablespoons unsalted butterWash the christophines, cut them in half, remove the hearts, and cook them in salted water to cover for 15minutes or until fork tender. Remove the meat from the shells, leaving the shells intact. Reserve the shells. Put the flesh through a food mill to puree it.In a saucepan, saute the onions, parsley, and flour in the oil. Moisten the onion-flour mixture with the milk. Season to taste and stir in the garlic. Add the christophine pur6e to the mixture in the saucepan, mix well, and continue to cook for 5 minutes.Fill the reserved christophine shells with layers of christophine puree and grated cheese. Top the shells with bread crumbs and a few dots of butter. Brown in a 450-degree oven for 10 minutes and serve hot.FRIED GREEN TOMATOES(UNITED STATES)This was my father's favorite breakfast dish. It is a great accompaniment to bacon and sausage because the green tomato's slightly tart taste is the perfect counterpoint to the sweetness of most breakfast meats.SERVES FOUR TO SIX4 large unripe tomatoes cup flour2 tablespoons yellow cornmeal1 teaspoon salt or Cruzan Seasoning (page 66) teaspoon poultry seasoning cup bacon drippings for frying Salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteWash the tomatoes and cut them into thick slices. Mix the flour, cornmeal, salt, and poultry seasoning in a small brown bag or a plastic bag. Heat the bacon drippings in a large, heavy skillet. Place the tomato slices in the bag and shake them until they are coated with the flour mixture. Transfer them to the hot bacon drippings and fry, turning them to make sure they are browned but do not

88 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONS stick to the bottom of the skillet. Add salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste and serve hot with bacon or sausage for breakfast.CANDIED SWEET POTATOES(UNITED STATES)This traditional southern dish appears on the tables ofBlack households at holiday season or during the wintermonths.SERVES FOUR TO SIX3 pounds sweet potatoes 3/4 cup light brown sugar teaspoon nutmeg teaspoon cinnamon teaspoon grated orange peel4 tablespoons unsalted butter cup fresh orange juiceMarshmallows to cover the whole surface of the sweet potatoesBoil the sweet potatoes until they are fork tender, peel, and slice them lengthwise into half-inch-thick slices. Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Layer the sweet potatoes, sugar, spices, and orange peel in a baking dish. Dot with bits of butter and add the orange juice. Bake for 20 to 30 minutes, until the potatoes are glazed, basting with the liquid. Reduce the heat to 350 degrees. Place the marsh-mallows on top of the sweet potatoes and continue to cook 5 more minutes or until the marshmallows have browned. Serve hot.Vegetables and Salads89BRAISED CABBAGE(UNITED STATES)This'was another of my father's favorite dishes. As far as he was concerned, it went with anything. My mother prefers the cabbage slightly browned at the edges, which gives it a caramelized taste,SERVES FOUR1 small head green cabbage2 tablespoons bacon drippings Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste3 tablespoons waterCut the cabbage into half-inch slices and separate them into strips. Heat the bacon drippings in a large, heavy skillet. Add the cabbage, season with salt and pepper, cover, and braise over medium heat until it is wilted. Remove the cover, stir the cabbage, add the water, and continue to cook uncovered for 10 more minutes. Stir the cabbage occasionally to ensure that it does not stick.For a slightly different taste, 1 tablespoon of sugar can be added to the cabbage at the outset.BEANS AND PEAS(EVERYWHERE)Although cooking black-eyed peas, black beans, and other legumes is a simple matter of following the directions on the package, it would be impossible to write a cookbook about African and African-inspired dishes that did not give the basics.

SERVES TWO TO THREE 90 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSThere are two methods of cooking all beans: the overnight soaking method and the quick-soaking method.METHOD 1Overnight SoakPick over the beans, removing any stones or damaged ones. Let pound of dry beans soak in 3 to 4 cups of cold water overnight.METHOD IIQuick SoakPlace pound of dry beans in 3 to 4 cups of cold water. Boil for 2 minutes and allow them to sit for 1 hour.Whichever method is chosen, the beans should be drained and rinsed before proceeding. My mother says that beans should always be started cooking in COLD water. Then, if water must be added at a later stage, it should always be HOT. This keeps the beans from getting tough.Traditional African and African-inspired cooks use salted and smoked meats to season the beans as they cook. A ham hock is customary in the United States; in other areas salt pork or other meats may be used. Seasonings vary from family to family, but celery, carrots, bay leaves, fresh thyme, onions, and other additions find their way into the cooking pot. Experiment and find your own way with beans.BLACK-EYED PEAS__(UNITED STATES)These are (he quintessential beans for Africans and Africans of the diaspora alike. Their little black noses turnup in any number of recipes from appetizers to snacks tomain dishes. This is a basic recipe thai allows for allmanner of personal embroidery.SERVES SIX TO EIGHT1 pound dried black-eyed peas1 quart cold water1 ham bone1 small onion, peeledSoak the peas according to either of the methods described on page 90. Drain, measure 1 cup of the soaking liquid, and add enough cold water to make 1 quart. Place the peas and the liquid in a stock-pot with the ham bone and the onion. Cover and simmer for 30 to 40 minutes.Once cooked, the peas can be eaten as is or served in any number of recipes calling for black-eyed peas.TOMATO SALAD(UNITED STATES)My maternal grandmother, Grandma Jones, was noted for her love of good food. She raised a family of ten children and always knew how to make tasty dishes out of ingredients that seemed unappetizing. When the tomato season came around, Grandma Jones would can tomatoes, make tomato sauce, and fill the kitchen with all manner of canning jars of relishes and the like. She also liked fresh tomatoes and was particularly fond of eating them garnished with just a sprinkling of sugar.SERVES FOUR3 large ripe tomatoes2 teaspoons sugar2 tablespoons basic vinaigrette (page 65)Slice the tomatoes and arrange them on a platter. Sprinkle them with sugar and pour on 2 tablespoons of basic vinaigrette. The platter may be garnished with sprigs of fresh mint.

POTATO SALAD(UNITED STATES)Potato salad is a fact of summer life for Black Americans. There's just no avoiding it. Whether it turns up at a picnic,92 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSVegetables and Salads

a backyard barbecue, or accompanying a country ham at Sunday dinner, it's guaranteed to he there many, many times between Memorial Day and Labor Day. There are as many variations on potato salad as there are Black American cooks. Some add hard-boiled eggs. This is anathema to others. Some add pickles. Others scream NO! The only ingredients they seem to agree on are potatoes and mayonnaise. Here, then, is one variation.SERVES SIX TO EIGHT6 medium-sized red-skinned waxy potatoes Water1 targe onion, minced cup diced celery2 hard-boiled eggs, chopped 1 teaspoon saltFreshly ground black pepper to taste cup mayonnaise, or more, to tasteSliced hard-boiled eggs, green bell pepper rings, andlettuce leaves for garnishWash the potatoes and boil them in their skins until they are just tender (not mushy). Drain and allow them to cool. Peel the potatoes and cut them in half-inch cubes. Mix the potato cubes, onion, celery, chopped egg, salt, and pepper and add the !/2 cup of mayonnaise. Toss the salad until the ingredients are evenly coated. Add more mayonnaise if you prefer a moister salad. Chill for I hour and then serve on a bed of lettuce, garnished with egg slices and green pepper rings.

SALADE DES COMBOS

(GUADELOUPE)Okra makes its appearance again in this tropical salad. Do not overcook the okra or it will become slimy. Choose only small, young okra pods because the taste of this salad depends on the okra being crunchy.

SERVES FOUR1 pound fresh okra Salt Water Vinaigrette (page 65)1 clove garlic, mincedWash the okra, top and tail it, and cook it in salted water for 5 minutes. Drain and chill it. Prepare the Vinaigrette, adding the minced garlic to the recipe. Pour the Vinaigrette over the drained okra and serve cold.SALADE DE CHRISTOPHINES(GUADELOUPE).Christophine is served in many ways in Guadeloupe. Those who celebrate the annual Festival of the Woman Cooks each August vie with one another to see who can come up with the most original recipe. Variations abound, and each cook spends a great deal of time thinking oj ways to add a new fillip to old ingredients. The results are dishes like this salad.SERVES FOUR2 christophines (page 7) Vinaigrette (page 65) 1 scallion1 clove garlic, minced2 chives, minced2 sprigs parsley, minced

Wash the christophines, peel, core, and grate them. Prepare the Vinaigrette, adding the scallion, garlic, chives, and parsley. Pour the dressing over the christophines andserve.94 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSVegetables and Salads

ENSALADA COM PALMITO(BRAZIL)Brazil is a basic meat-and-potatoe.s country. Beans and rice abound, as do churrascas and other gaucho barbecues. In the traditionally more African northeastern region, starches and African-inspired vegetable dishes are often fried or steamed. After a while, anyone used to the American diet may begin to hanker for a small taste of "rabbit food." One of Brazil's bounties is hearts of palm. It is, however, a dangerous taste to acquire as hearts of palm are on the delicacy shelf in the United States. The compromise solution: Ensalada com Palmito.SERVES FOUR1 can hearts of palm head romaine lettuce1 medium-sized onion, sliced thin Vinaigrette (page 65) teaspoon liquid from a bottle malagueta peppersDrain the hearts of palm and cut them into 1-inch slices. Wash and dry the lettuce and break it into bite-sized pieces. Place the hearts of palm and the lettuce in a large salad bowl. Add the onion and pour on the Vinaigrette to which !/2 teaspoon of liquid from the malagueta peppers has been added. Serve chilled.MANGO SALAD

(TRINIDAD AND TOBAGO)Mangoes grow in abundance in Africa and the Caribbean and are eaten by all from dignified dowagers to rambunctious schoolchildren. I contend that the only good way to eat a ripe mango is sitting undressed in a bathtub. Green mangoes, however, are another matter. They are transformed into relishes and salads and give a differenttaste to this fruit that was once thought to be the apple in the Garden of Eden.SFRVES FOUR2 green mangoes teaspoon salt teaspoon Worcestershire sauce teaspoon red wine vinegar 1 beaten egg Juice of 1 limePeel the mangoes and grate them into a bowl. Mix the remaining ingredients into a dressing and pour it over the grated mango. Mix well and serve chilled, to accompany grilled meats or curried dishes.PLANTAIN SALAD(ST. KITTS)This unusual tropical salad uses plantains in much the same way that we would use white potatoes. The plantain lends an interestingly sweet undertaste to the dish. For a different flavor add I tablespoon of French dressing to the mayonnaise.SERVES SIX TO EIGHT6 plantains Juice of 1 lime3 hard-boiled eggs, chopped cup cooked green peas cup diced cooked carrots cup diced cooked ham1 green bell pepper, cored, seeded, and diced '/z cup mayonnaisePeel the plantains and wash them in the lime juice. Place them in a saucepan, cover with water, and boil until they are firm yet tender. Dice them into a large bowl. Add the96 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSother ingredients to the bowl and mix to coat well with mayonnaise. Chill for at least 1 hour. Serve chilled, on a bed of lettuce.

CONCH SALAD(THE BAHAMAS)The Bahamians adore conch (think CONK). They eat U in a variety of ways ranging from fritters to chowder to grilled. Conch Salad is simple to prepare and can be served in small portions as an appetizer or on a bed of lettuce surrounded with blanched summer vegetables as a luncheon treat.SERVES FOUR2 cups diced conch meat cup diced celery l/3 cup diced onion1 cup peeled, seeded, and diced tomatoJuice of 1 lemon'Mix all the ingredients together in a large salad bowl. Cover with foil or plastic wrap and allow it to sit for half an hour so the flavors can mingle. Stir the salad a few times while it sits. Serve chilled, over a bed of lettuce,

97$STARCHESYAMS AND SWEET POTATOESThe true yam is a member of the Dioscorea species and is one of the world's major food crops. The long, hairy tubers grow to astonishing size and have been recorded at as much as six feet long and weighing more than a quarter of a ton! The mighty yam is of primary'importance in tropical and subtropical countries. In West Africa, harvest festivals often center around the symbolic eating of the first yam. In Brazil, the tradition has been carried on by descendants of Black slaves in the Candomble houses in Salvador da Bahia, where the festival calendar begins with the Pilao de Oxaguian, a communal meal celebrating the African god, Oxala, and his fondness for pounded yam.The yam goes under many names: name to those in the Spanish-speaking world, igname to the French and those speaking their language, inhame in Portuguese, and yam in English. In Yoruba there are at least four words for the vegetables: isu for the tuber, ewura or obisu for water yams, dundu for fried yams, and ellubu isu for yam flour.In the New World, consumers and vendors alike have so many local names for it that at times the word yam is simply a passe-partout meaning whatever starchy, hairy tuber predominates in the local diet. Yams have been confused with everything from taro to sweet potatoes.Sweet potatoes are an indigenous American tuber first9798 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSdiscovered by Columbus in Hispafiola in 1492. The sweet potato rapidly became a staple food for sailors in the Atlantic trade and thus worked its way into Old World diets.DUN DUN(BENIN)African dishes are traditionally accompanied by a variety of starchy vegetables and flours cooked in many different ways. These dishes are the base upon which African stews and sauces are served. They may be simply pounded vegetables or more complex preparations such as Benin's Dun Dun.SERVES SIX6 medium-sized sweet potatoes, peeled and cut into-inch slices 1 teaspoons salt 4 cups water 1 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper1 cup flour2 eggsOil for frying 6 medium-sized scallions, choppedPlace the sweet potato slices in a heavy pan with 1 teaspoon of salt and all but 2 tablespoons of the water. Bring to a boil and continue to boil until the potatoes are tender. Drain and allow them to dry. Meanwhile, mix the remaining salt and the pepper with the flour jn a small bowl and set aside. Beat the eggs lightly with the remaining water. In a heavy skillet, heat the oil to 350 to 375 degrees. Dip the sweet potato slices first in the egg, then in the flour. Fry them in the oil until they are browned on both sides. Serve hot, topped with the chopped scallions.StarchesBEAN UGALI(TANZANIA)This ix an East African mash, but it ix similar to those of the entire continent in its use of beans and peanuts. Ugali, a dish .served daily on many East African tables, is usually made of cornmeai and is very much like the Coo Coo of the West Indies (page 102-103).SERVES FOUR TO SIX1 cup dried white beans 3 cups cold water 1 medium-sized onion, minced 1 tablespoon peanut oil1 tablespoon flour cup hot water Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste2 tablespoons ground peanutsPick over the beans, rinse them, and cook in the cold water until tender according to directions on the package. Put the beans through a food mill using the coarse blade to remove the skins. (In Africa this is done on a grinding stone, but using a food mill is much simpler.) Set the beans aside. Then, in a heavy skillet, fry the minced onion in the peanut oil until onion is slightly browned. Add the flour and brown the mixture. Slowly pour in the hot water, stirring until the mixture comes to a boil. Finally, add the salt, pepper, peanuts, and beans, and continue to cook for 5 minutes. Serve the Bean Ugali mounded in a bowl with any of the African stews arranged around it. Additional juices can be served in a sauceboat. Each person takes some of the Ugali and spoons the stew on top of it.Starches100 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONS

TOUO(NIGER)This West African variation on the mash theme is a cross-Atlantic cousin of the Caribbean's Coo Coo. The trick in preparing the Touo is to keep stirring. If not stirred constantly, the cornmeal gets lumpy.SERVES FOUR TO SIX3 cups cold water l/2 teaspoon salt 1 cup white cornmeal 1 tablespoon butter 1 teaspoon cayenne pepperPlace 2 cups of the water and the salt in a saucepan and bring it to a boil over medium heat. Meanwhile, mix the cornmeal and the remaining water into a paste and pour the paste slowly into the boiling water, stirring constantly. Lower the heat and allow the Touo to simmer, stirring constantly, for 10 minutes or until the mixture is a mush. Serve with a pat of butter and a sprinkling of cayenne.

EGBA(NIGERIA)This classic Nigerian dish has become something of a joke with some of my friends in West Africa. One day, while we were sitting in a restaurant in Dakar, Senegal, a corpulent man dressed in traditional Nigerian clothing appeared. My friends dissolved in laughtert giggling to each other, "Egba makes you strong." I sat mystified until they explained that this advertising slogan was broadcast daily over Nigerian radio stations. They thought the man had taken this slogan a bit too seriously. A little bit of Egba goes a long way. It's very filling and definitely sticks to the ribs.2 tablespoons dende oil (page 9) ] cups chicken stock Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste1 cup gari (page 10) or finely ground manioc flour (page 14)Place the oil, chicken stock, salt, and pepper in a heavy saucepan and bring to a boil. Slowly pour in the gari, stirring constantly. Continue to stir and cook for 2 minutes. The Egba is ready when it has a firm consistency and is no longer sticky.POTATO FOU FOU(IVORY COAST)This is a simple variation on the more traditional fou fou usually prepared from yams or plantains. In a meeting of East and West the plain white potato is used as a readily available substitute. Rice flour binds the mixture and gives it the "stiffness" of fou fou. This recipe is a good way to try the traditional mashes without ha ving to search out unusual ingredients.

SERVES FOUR TO SIX6 large white potatoes, peeled 3 tablespoons rice flour, sifted Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 1 tablespoon warm waterBoil the potatoes until tender, then drain and mash them. Stir in the rice flour, salt, and pepper, whipping the potatoes until the mixture is smooth and the rice flour and seasonings are evenly distributed throughout. You may have to add a bit of warm water to make the mixture smooth. If so, use it sparingly. Serve the Fou Fou hot, with African stews and sauces.102 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSCORNMEAL COO COO(BARBADOS)This is a traditional favorite from Barbados. It is usually eaten with Callaloo {page 5) or with fried fish. For those who love the dish, it goes with everything. Coo Coo is a direct descendant of the mashes of Africa and the various cornmeal dishes that were served on the Middle Passage. In Barbados, there are many variations on the Coo Coo theme; a favorite of mine was one that was made with breadfruit and served in a tiny cafe in Speightstown. If breadfruit is not available, this cornmeal version does very nicely, and a bite will bring back images of the Caribbean's tiny cafes, where island music accompanies a feast of home-prepared, simple, but delicious food.SERVE SIX TO EIGHT pound fresh okra, topped, tailed, and cut into -inchslices2 cups cornmeal3cups water 1 teaspoon salt2 tablespoons sugar stick unsalted butterPut the okra in a heavy saucepan with cup of the water and boil until tender. Remove from the heat and reserve the okra and the liquid. Meanwhile, in a bowl, soak the cornmeal in 1 cups of the water to which the salt and sugar have been added. Place the remaining water in a medium-sized saucepan and bring it to a boil. When the water is boiling, stir in the cornmeal with a wooden spoon and add the butter. Lower the heat and continue to stir for 5 minutes. Then fold in the reserved okra and liquid. Place 3 inches of water in the bottom of a pot large enough to hold the pot containing the okra and cornmeal mixture. Place the pot containing the okra and cornmeal inside the larger pot, cover it, and allow the mixture to steam for 15 minutes. Make sure that the water in the 103Starcheslarger pot remains at a slow boil; add more hot water if necessary.When the Cornmeal Coo Coo is done, remove it from the heat, cool it for 5 minutes, and place half of the mixture in a greased round bowl. Roll the bowl around to form a ball of Coo Coo. Continue in the same manner to form a second ball from the remaining Coo Coo. Cornmeal Coo Coo should be served sliced and hot. It may be topped with a pat of butter.HOMINY GRITS(UNITED STATES)For many southern Blacks, Sunday breakfast wouldn't be Sunday breakfast without hominy grits. Tales abound of unsuspecting northerners at southern Black schools who brought immediate ridicule upon themselves by assuming that the grits presented at breakfast were Cream of Wheat and dousing them with milk and sugar. Grits are meant to be eaten savory, with salt, ground black pepper, and streaky fat slices of country bacon or ham. Grits are readily available throughout the United States in two versionsregular grits and quick grits. They are a great addition to any breakfast and particularly to a Sunday brunch buffet table. You're guaranteed to like them or, as the southern Black expression goes, "grits ain't groceries. '' Preparation may vary according to the brand so the best bet is to prepare the grits according to directions on the package.Starches104 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONS

PEPPER GRITS SOUFFLE(UNITED STATES)Today's Black cooks continue to seek ways to combine familiar ingredients to create innovative dishes that still bespeak traditional Black foods. This way of serving grits combines the French souffle with American hominy grits and an African touch of chile to create a dish that would be appropriate for the most elegant meal.SERVKS FOUR TO SIX cup hominy grits cup grated jalapeno Monterey Jack cheese3 eggs, separated2 tablespoons salted butter 1/8 teaspoon cream of tartarPrepare the grits according to directions on the package while preheating the oven to 400 degrees. When the grits are cooked, remove from the heat and beat in the cheese, egg yolks, and butter. Allow the mixture to cool slightly while beating the egg whites. Whisk the whites until they are foamy, then add the cream of tartar, continuing to whisk until the whites form stiff peaks. Fold in the grits and cheese and pour the mixture into a well-greased l'/2-quart souffle dish. Bake for 30 minutes or until the souffle has risen and browned on the top. Serve immediately.BOBO DE INHAME

(BRAZIL)This can be served as either a main dish or a side dish. Calling for pepper, dende, and dried shrimp, it is typical of the cooking of Brazil's northeastern region, where African culinary influences prevail.SERVES FOUR AS A MAIN DISH, SIX AS A SIDE DISH1 yam (page 19), approximately 1 pound 1 tablespoons dende oil (page 9) cup ground dried shrimp 1 small onion, grated 1 clove garlic, minced teaspoon minced fresh ginger teaspoon cayenne pepper Salt to taste pound whole cooked shrimpQuarter the yam, place it in a saucepan with water to cover, and cook for 30 minutes or until tender. When ready, remove from heat and drain. Peel the yam and put it through a food mill. Meanwhile, place the dende oil in a heavy skillet with the ground dried shrimp, the onion, garlic, ginger, cayenne pepper, and salt. Cook over medium heat for 5 to 8 minutes, stirring the ingredients to keep them from sticking. Add the whole shrimp and continue to cook until the shrimp are heated through. Then gradually add the mashed yam, a spoonful at a time, stirring constantly. Cook the mixture for an additional 5 to 8 minutes or until it becomes firm. Bobo de Inhame is served as a main dish or to accompany fish or meat dishes.BASIC RICERice is a staple in many parts of West Africa and is a side dish frequently found on the tables of Blacks in the New World. It forms the basis for numerous traditional dishes ranging from Senegal's Thiebou Dienne (page 123-125) to the Caribbean's Beans and Rice (see page 108). Even today, many Black cooks will evaluate another cook's prowess by the way the rice is prepared. Every grain should stand on its own.SERVES SIX TO EIGHT106 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONS3/3 cups water1 cups uncooked rice1 teaspoon salt1 tablespoon butterBring the water to a boil in a medium-sized saucepan. Stir in the rice, salt, and butter. Cover and simmer over low heat for approximately 20 minutes. Remove the rice from the heat and allow it to stand for 5 minutes or until all the water has been absorbed. ARROZ-DE-HAUCA(BRAZIL)The Hausa (or Hauc,a) are a northern Nigerian group who have given their name to this Brazilian dish. In Brazil, the dish calls for came seca, a sun-dried meat typical of the northeastern region of the country. Because came seca is difficult to obtain in the United States, streaky bacon has been substituted, although it would be anathema to the largely Muslim Hausa. If you can obtain it, try the dish with the traditional meat, if not, enjoy the U.S. adaptation.SERVES SIX TO EIGHT3/3 cups water1 cups uncooked rice1 teaspoon salt pound streaky slab bacon, diced1 medium-sized onion, sliced1 clove garlic, minced

Bring the water to a boil in a medium-sized saucepan. Stir in the rice and the salt, cover, and simmer over low heat for 25 minutes. Remove the rice from the heat and allow it to stand for 5 minutes or until all the water has been absorbed.Fry the diced bacon in a heavy skillet until it is browned. Remove the bacon and drain it. Add the onion and garlic to the bacon drippings in the skillet and cook until they are soft but not browned. Add the onion and garlic mixture to the bacon bits, then pour the onion, garlic, and bacon over the rice. Serve hot, to accompany traditional Bahian dishes.

ARROZ-DE-VIUVA(BRAZIL)In Brazil, this dish means widow's rice. I'm not sure what the relationship with widows is, but the dish is traditionally prepared from the second batch of milk taken from a coconut instead of from the first, richer hatch of milk. Because most of us have neither the time nor the patience to prepare coconut milk at home (if you want to, see page 55), th'is recipe calls for either bottled or homemade coconut milk.SERVES SIX TO EIGHT3/3 cups coconut milk, bottled or homemade 1 cups uncooked rice teaspoon saltBring the coconut milk to a boil in a medium-sized saucepan. Stir in the rice and salt, cover, and simmer over low heat for 20 minutes. Remove the rice from the heat and let it stand for 5 minutes or until all of the liquid has been absorbed.Arroz-de-Viuva is traditionally served with fish and seafood dishes. It can also be served as a dessert if salt is omitted from the original preparation. In that case, the rice is served accompanied by sugar and additional coconut milk and can be topped with a grating of nutmeg and a dash of cinnamon.

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108 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONS

BEANS AND RICEThe Beans and Rice debate rages throughout the Caribbean and worldwide. In much of the Caribbean they are called peas and rice, and served with almost all main dishes. In Jamaica, however, they insist on calling it Rice and Peas and eat the dish prepared with red peas, which are similar to kidney beans. In Cuba, where turtle beans or larger black beans are used, the dish is referred to as Morros y Cristianos, an allusion to the wars between the Moors and the Christians that indirectly led Columbus to the Americas. In Guyana, the dish is occasionally made with yellow lentils, and in Puerto Rico and in other parts of the Caribbean it appears prepared with fresh or dried Congo peas.serves six pound kidney beans 2 tablespoons peanut oil 1 medium-sized onion, minced 1 Scotch bonnet-type chile, seeded and minced l cups coconut milk (page 55)1 sprig fresh thyme2 chives, mincedSalt and freshly ground black pepper to taste 2 cups uncooked ricePrepare the beans according to the quick soak or over-night soak method (page 90) and cook until almost tender. Drain the beans and reserve the cooking liquid. Return the beans to their cooking pot. Heat the oil in a heavy skillet and brown the onion. Add the onion and the remaining ingredients to the'bean pot along with 2 cups of the reserved bean cooking liquid. (If there is not enough, add cold water to supplement.) Cover the pot and cook over low heat for 25 minutes or until all the water has been absorbed and the rice is tender.

HOPPIN' JOHN(UNITED STATES)This is the southern United States' entry in the rice and beans sweepstakes.SERVES FOUR TO SIX1 pound dried black-eyed peas pound salt pork, sliced2 quarts water1 sprig fresh thymeSalt and freshly ground black pepper to taste1 cups uncooked long-grain ricePick over the black-eyed peas to remove all impurities. Soak them, using either the overnight or the quick soak method (page 90). Fry the salt pork in a large, heavy casserole to render the fat. Add the black-eyed peas and the water, the thyme, salt, and pepper, cover, and cook over low heat for 1 hour. Verify the seasonings and continue to cook until the peas are tender. Then add the rice, cover, and simmer over low heat until all the water has been absorbed and the rice is tender.DIRTY RICE(NEW ORLEANS)This traditional New Orleans favorite is sometimes so rich in ingredients that it becomes a main dish with a tossed green salad served on the side.SERVES SIX TO EIGHT110 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONS1 cups uncooked rice 3 tablespoons peanut oil 1 large red onion, chopped1 clove garlic, minced pound chicken livers2 scallions, green tops included, chopped 1 sprig parsley, minced 1 small red hot chile, seeded and diced Salt and freshly ground black pepper to tasteCook the rice according to the Basic Rice recipe (page 105-106) until almost done (about 15 minutes). Heat the oil in a heavy skillet and brown the onion and garlic. Cut up the chicken livers, add them to the onion and garlic mixture, and saute until they are cooked and crumbly. Add the scallions, parsley, chile, salt, and pepper. Add the rice along with whatever cooking liquid remains in the pot. Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally, until the rice is done and the ingredients are well.mixed.ROTI(GUYANA)This traditional accompaniment to West Indian curries is similar in shape to a crepe, but thicker. My fnend June Bobb passed along this recipe, which she received from an Indian woman in her home country of Guyana* She prepares Roti with ease and dexterity, clapping them out into neat crepelike shapes and serving them piping hot with Chicken Curry (page 142-143) and homemade spicy Mango Chutney (page 68-69)..YIElfD = 4T06ROT12 cups flour teaspoon baking powder teaspoon salt Water to make a stiff dough Corn oil for grillingSift the flour, baking powder, and salt into a bowl. Add enough water to make a stiff dough. If you have added too much water, add a bit more flour so the mixture is stiff. Form the dough into 4 to 6 balls. Flatten each ball with a rolling pin. Spread each roti with corn oil and a bit of flour. Fold the roti back into a ball by turning the ends in on each other. Let the roti stand at least half an hour. When ready to cook, heat a griddle and then roll out the roti into flat, crepelike forms. Cook for 3 minutes on each side until lightly browned, turning frequently. Drizzle a small amount of corn oil on the side of the roti that is not cooking to keep it from sticking. When you remove the roti from the griddle, place each one in the palm of your hand and "clap" your hands together 2 or 3 times taking care not to burn yourself. Serve the Roti hot, with Chicken Curry and Mango Chutney.ACACA(BRAZIL)This Brazilian dish is so much like its antecedents from Benin and Nigeria that the dishes have the same name. Acacia is traditionally served in Benin along with the sauces and stews that are typical of that region. In Brazil, where it accompanies Bahia's Efo (page 150-151), the dish is sometimes prepared in individual steamed banana leaves. When it is slightly thicker and presented in a single serving, it is called pirao.SERVES SIX1 cup coconut milk (page 55)2 cups water teaspoon salt3 tablespoons rice flour1 tablespoon dende oil (page 9)1 tablespoon peanut oil112 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONSPlace all the ingredients in a heavy saucepan and cook for 15 minutes over low heat, stirring occasionally. When the mixture has a creamy consistency, pour it into a greased bowl or baking dish and allow it to cool. When cold, cut into slices or unmold whole and slice at the table.VATAPA(BRAZIL)This Bahian dish is so well-known in Brazil that Bahian songwriter Dorival Caymmi used its ingredients and recipe as the basis for a popular song. The dish, which is a paste prepared from ground nuts, dried shrimp, stale bread, and coconut milk, is a traditional accompaniment to Bahian dishes. It is also frequently served as a stuffing for the most representative of Bahian street foodsAca~ raje (page 27-28).SERVES SIX1 pound stale bread1 cup dried shrimp cup roasted peanuts and cashews cup dende oil (page 9) cup peanut oil1 cup coconut milk (page 55) cup water1 thumb-sized piece fresh ginger, gratedSalt to tasteSoak the bread in water to cover for at least 1 hour. Squeeze the water from the bread and put the bread through a food mill. Pulverize the shrimp and the nuts in a food processor. Place all the ingredients in a heavy saucepan and cook over low heat, stirring constantly, until the mixture has become a smooth paste. Add more water if necessary. 113StarchesCORNBREAD(UNITED STATES)Cornbread is so much a part of the Black American tradition that it is impossible for most people even to think of a Sunday meal without it. The consistency is perfect for sopping up gravies and for dipping in the pot liquor from collards and other greens. Its crunchy corners should be lightly browned, and its yellow center seems to call for more and more butter. Cooks differ in making cornbread slightly sweet or with a little ta.ng. Some even add bits of jalapeno pepper or fried cracklings to the batter. This is a basic recipe for the purists.YIELD = SEVEN CORN STICKS3/4 cup yellow cornmeal 3/4 cup flour2 tablespoons sugar3 teaspoons baking powder teaspoon salt 3/4 cup milk1 egg3 tablespoons peanut oilPlace the cornmeal, flour, sugar, baking powder, and salt in a large bowl. Add the milk, egg, and peanut oil and beat for about I minute, or until the mixture is smooth. Pour the mixture into a well-greased, seasoned, cast-iron corn-stick mold or a baking dish and bake in a 425-degree oven for 20 minutes. Serve hot, with butter.JALAPENO CORN STICKSFor a spicy variation on this theme, stir I tablespoon minced preserved jalapeno chiles into the finished batter.Starches114 IRON POTS AND WOODEN SPOONS

CRACKLIN' CORNBREADAnother v