1. 1. Historical Japanese Clothing For Cosplayers An overview of traditional Japanese clothing, from the Heian era to the present day, with an emphasis on fabrics, construction techniques, and how cosplayers in the West can replicate these garments without going broke in the process.
2. 2. History Time periods of note: Heian 7941185 Muromachi 13361573 Includes Sengoku period Edo 16031868 Meiji 18681912
3. 3. Series CLAMP o X o Tokyo Babylon o Tsubasa
4. 4. Series Bakumatsu/Meiji series o Gintama o Kenshin o Peacemaker Kurogane o Mononoke
5. 5. Series Heian-era clothes o Inuyasha o Sailor Moon
6. 6. Women Kimono Obi Accessories Hakama (nondivided, ex: shrine maidens) Haori
7. 7. Breakdown of Styles For Women Sleeve lengths convey messages about age & marital status o The longest sleeves are reserved for unmarried young women & girls in formal occasions Color and pattern also convey messages about formality o Black is very formal, and also used for funeral attire o Mon (family crests) are also an indication of formality Accessories are further used in styling kimono o This includes obi and the knots used to tie them
8. 8. Heian Era Major cultural exchange with China Importation of Chinese styles for the nobility
9. 9. Women Heavily layered Designed for aesthetics, not functionality Choice of colors important Frequently all a man would see before marriage
10. 10. Men Also fairly layered More functional Still in use (Shinto priests)
11. 11. Men Kimono Hakama (nondivided or divided) Kataginu (formal) Jinbaori ('campaign coat')
12. 12. Breakdown of Styles For Men Significantly less choice and style in men's kimono o Colors are usually subdued, with little patterning Only two obi types, one formal, one informal Only recently has style shifted towards more colorful styles
13. 13. The Modern Kimono Women Specific colors and style for different ages and occasions Furisode (long sleeves, for unmarried women) Kakeshita (wedding kimono) Uchikake (elaborate wedding over-robe, padded hem) Some movement away from rigid definition in recent years Men Still very subdued colors - browns, blacks, blues More experimentation with pattern and fabric in recent years
14. 14. Fabrics In early times: flax, linen Silk via China, originally a luxury o The finer the silk (= fewer slubs and imperfections) the better quality Cotton reaches Japan late, via trade routes to India. o Initially seen as somewhat prestigious
15. 15. Fabrics (continued) By the late 19th century, silk becoming more widely available 20th + 21st century: Silk is most formal, rayon is a less expensive substitute Western options: high quality satins, crepe silks, satin- weave cottons
16. 16. Embellishment techniques Dyeing - Indigo works on cotton/linen/hemp tricky to use still used (jeans!)
17. 17. Embellishment techniques Shibori Japanese 'tie-dye' used most often with indigo
18. 18. Embellishment techniques Dyeing - Silk very easy to dye vibrant colors lots of techniques
19. 19. Embellishment techniques Stencil Dyeing traditionally paste resist modern alternatives available
20. 20. Embellishment techniques Embroidery Silk or rayon floss Metallic thread couching
21. 21. Embellishment Techniques (cont.) Painting Metallic paints Matte paints not traditionally used, but a simpler alternative to dyeing
22. 22. Embellishment Techniques (cont.) Applique traditionally used on lower-class clothing can be a substitute for painting or dyeing fabric
23. 23. Patterns Traditional layout uses as few cuts as possible, from narrow-width fabric - everything is rectangles! Online patterns and tutorials 'Make Your Own Japanese Clothes Round Earth hakama pattern
24. 24. Non-Kimono Garments Techniques used for other garments too LOTS of accessories - sometimes easier to buy.
25. 25. Useful Links http://www.iz2.or.jp/english/index.htm - diagrams and models of Heian-era clothes http://fibers.destinyslobster.com/Japanese/Clothes/japmake.htm - kimono and hakama tutorials http://www.round-earth.com/index.html - patterns for multiple garments http://www.folkwear.com/asian.html - patterns for multiple garments http://sarcasm-hime.net/tipscosplay.html - hakama tutorial http://www.dharmatrading.com/ - fabric and supplies for dyeing http://www.fabrictales.com/STORE/store.cgi?product=chirimen_solid - rayon chirimen http://www.sengokudaimyo.com/garb/garb.html - rarer garments with photos and descriptions Find us at: http://momijizukamori.tumblr.com - Cocoa http://pinnedtogether.tumblr.com - Andy
26. 26. References & Resources Dalby, Liza. Kimono: Fashioning Culture. Seattle: U of Washington, 2001. Print. Dobson, Jenni. Making Kimono and Japanese Clothes. London: Batsford, 2008. Print. Koike, Yoko, Kumiko Kozakai, and Tomomi Ahiko. Sashiko Style: Traditional Japanese Patterns for Contemporary Design. Japan: Co-published by Japan Publications Trading, and Joie, 2007. Print. Kure, Mitsuo. Samurai: Arms, Armor, Costume. Edison, NJ: Chartwell, 2007. Print. Marshall, John. Make Your Own Japanese Clothes: Patterns and Ideas for Modern Wear. Tokyo: Kodansha International, 1988. Print. Tamura, Shuji. The Techniques of Japanese Embroidery. Iola, WI: Krause Publications, 1998. Print. Hakama Pattern, Round Earth Publishing: http://roundearth.stores.yahoo.net/hakformarar.html