installation and operation manual 2200€¦ · 5.2 chimney and chimney connector maintenance ... 26...

READ AND KEEP THIS MANUAL FOR REFERENCE

45055A

Printed in Canada 19-03-2019

INSTALLATION AND OPERATION MANUAL

2200 (OB02211 model)

US ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION

AGENCY PHASE II CERTIFIED WOOD

STOVE

Safety tested according to ULC S627

and UL 1482 Standards by

an accredited laboratory

www.osburn-mfg.com

Stove Builder International Inc.

250, rue de Copenhague, St-Augustin-de-Desmaures (Quebec) Canada G3A 2H3

After-sale service: 418-908-8002 E-mail: [email protected]

This manual is available for free download on the manufacturer’s web site. It is a copyrighted

document. Re-sale is strictly prohibited. The manufacturer may update this manual from time to

time and cannot be responsible for problems, injuries, or damages arising out of the use of

information contained in any manual obtained from unauthorized sources.

2200 Installation and Operation Manual

2 _______________________________________________________________________________

THANK YOU FOR CHOOSING THIS OSBURN WOOD STOVE

As one of North America’s largest and most respected wood stove and fireplace manufacturers,

Stove Builder International takes pride in the quality and performance of all its products. We want

to help you get maximum satisfaction as you use this product.

In the pages that follow you will find general advice on wood heating, detailed instructions for safe

and effective installation, and guidance on how to get the best performance from this stove as you

build and maintain fires, and maintain your wood heating system.

We recommend that our wood burning hearth products be installed and serviced by professionals

who are certified in the United States by NFI (National Fireplace Institute®) or in Canada by WETT

(Wood Energy Technology Transfer) or in Quebec by APC (Association des Professionnels du

Chauffage).

Congratulations on making a wise purchase.

When this stove is not properly installed, a house fire may result. To reduce the risk of fire,

follow the installation instructions. Contact local building or fire officials about restrictions and

installation inspection requirements in your area.

Please read this entire manual before you install and use your new stove. Failure to follow

instructions may result in property damage, bodily injury, or even death. It is important that you

follow the installations guidelines exactly.

You may need to obtain a building permit for the installation of this stove and the chimney that

it is connected to. Consult your municipal building department or fire department before

installation to determine the need to obtain one. We recommend that you also inform your

home insurance company to find out if the installation will affect your policy.

REGISTER YOUR WARRANTY ONLINE

To receive full warranty coverage, you will need to show evidence of

the date you purchased your stove. Keep your sales invoice. We also

recommend that you register your warranty online at:

www.osburn-mfg.com/en/service-support/warranty-registration

Registering your warranty online will help us to quickly track the

information we need about your stove.


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Table of content

PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE ............................... 6

1 Safety Information ..................................................................... 6

2 General Information on 2200 (OB02211) .................................. 7

2.1 Appliance performance(1) ...................................................................................................... 7

2.2 General Features ................................................................................................................... 8

2.3 Zone Heating and How to Make it Work for You ................................................................ 11

2.4 The Benefits of Low Emissions and High Efficiency ............................................................. 11

2.5 The SBI Commitment to You and the Environment ............................................................ 11

2.5.1 What is Your New Stove Made Of? .................................................................................. 11

3 Fuel ............................................................................................ 13

3.1 Materials That Should Not be Burned ................................................................................. 13

3.2 How to Prepare or Buy Good Firewood .............................................................................. 13

3.2.1 What is Good Firewood? ................................................................................................. 13

3.2.2 Tree Species ..................................................................................................................... 13

3.2.3 Log Length ........................................................................................................................ 14

3.2.4 Piece Size .......................................................................................................................... 14

3.2.5 How to Dry Firewood ....................................................................................................... 15

3.2.6 Judging Firewood Moisture Content ............................................................................... 16

3.3 Manufactured Logs .............................................................................................................. 16

4 Operating Your Stove .............................................................. 17

4.1 Your First Fires ..................................................................................................................... 17

4.2 Lighting Fires ........................................................................................................................ 17

4.2.1 Conventional Fire Starting ............................................................................................... 17

4.2.2 The Top Down Fire ........................................................................................................... 18

4.2.3 Two Parallel Logs .............................................................................................................. 18

4.2.4 Using Fire Starters ............................................................................................................ 18

4.3 Maintaining Wood Fires ...................................................................................................... 18

4.3.1 General Advice ................................................................................................................. 18

4.3.2 Ash Removal ..................................................................................................................... 19

4.3.3 Raking Charcoal ................................................................................................................ 19

4.3.4 Firing Each New Load Hot ................................................................................................ 20

4.3.5 Turning Down the Air Supply ........................................................................................... 20

4.3.6 Building Different Fires for Different Needs .................................................................... 21


4 _______________________________________________________________________________

5 Maintaining Your Wood Heating System ............................... 23

5.1 Stove Maintenance .............................................................................................................. 23

5.1.1 Plated Finish Maintenance............................................................................................... 23

5.1.2 Cleaning Door Glass ......................................................................................................... 23

5.1.3 Door adjustment .............................................................................................................. 24

5.1.4 Replacing the Door Gasket ............................................................................................... 24

5.1.5 Replacing the Glass Gasket and/or the Glass .................................................................. 25

5.1.6 Cleaning and Painting the Stove ...................................................................................... 26

5.2 Chimney and Chimney Connector Maintenance................................................................. 26

5.2.1 Why Chimney Cleaning is Necessary ............................................................................... 26

5.2.2 How Often Should You Clean the Chimney? ................................................................... 26

5.2.3 Cleaning the Chimney ...................................................................................................... 27

PART B - INSTALLATION ............................................................. 28

6 Safety Information ................................................................... 28

6.1 Summary of Installation Cautions and Warnings ................................................................ 28

6.2 Regulations Covering Stove Installation .............................................................................. 28

7 Clearances to Combustible Material ...................................... 29

7.1 Location of the certification label ........................................................................................ 29

7.2 Clearances to Walls and Ceiling ........................................................................................... 29

7.3 Floor protector .................................................................................................................... 32

7.4 Reducing Wall and Ceiling Clearances Safely ...................................................................... 33

7.4.1 Shield Construction Rules ................................................................................................ 33

7.4.2 Table of Clearance Reduction Percentages ..................................................................... 35

8 The Venting System ................................................................. 36

8.1 General ................................................................................................................................ 36

8.2 Suitable Chimneys ............................................................................................................... 36

8.2.1 Factory-built Metal Chimneys .......................................................................................... 36

8.2.2 Factory-built Metal Chimneys in mobile homes .............................................................. 37

8.2.3 Masonry Chimneys ........................................................................................................... 37

8.3 Minimum Chimney Height ................................................................................................... 38

8.4 The LINK Between the Chimney and the House .................................................................. 38

8.4.1 Why inside chimneys are preferred ................................................................................. 38

8.4.2 Why the chimney should CROSS the highest heated space ............................................ 39

8.5 Supply of Combustion Air .................................................................................................... 40

8.5.1 Combustion Air Supply in Mobile Homes ........................................................................ 40


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8.5.2 Air Supply in Conventional Houses .................................................................................. 40

8.6 Installing the Chimney Connector ....................................................................................... 40

8.6.1 Installation of Single Wall Chimney Connector ............................................................... 41

Appendix 1: Installing the Optional Door Overlay, Trivet and Louver Assembly .......................................................................... 43

Appendix 2: Installing the Optional Fresh Air Intake Kit (OA10500) ...................................................................................... 45

Appendix 3: Installation and Use of the Optional Blower ........ 46

Appendix 4: Installation of Secondary Air Tubes and Baffle ... 48

Appendix 5: Exploded Diagram and Parts List .......................... 51

OSBURN LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY ................................. 54


6 _______________________________________________________________________________

PART A - OPERATION AND MAINTENANCE

Please see Part B for installation instructions.

1 SAFETY INFORMATION

• HOT WHILE IN OPERATION, KEEP CHILDREN, CLOTHING AND FURNITURE AWAY. CONTACT

MAY CAUSE SKIN BURNS. GLOVES MAY BE NEEDED FOR STOVE OPERATION.

• USING A STOVE WITH CRACKED OR BROKEN COMPONENTS, SUCH AS GLASS OR FIREBRICKS

OR BAFFLES MAY PRODUCE AN UNSAFE CONDITION AND MAY DAMAGE THE STOVE.

• OPEN THE AIR CONTROL FULLY BEFORE OPENING FIRING DOOR.

• THIS STOVE IS NOT DESIGNED TO BE USED WITH THE DOOR OPEN. THE DOOR MAY BE OPEN

ONLY DURING LIGHTING PROCEDURES OR RELOADING. DO NOT LEAVE THE STOVE

UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPENED DURING IGNITION. ALWAYS CLOSE THE

DOOR AFTER IGNITION.

• NEVER USE GASOLINE, GASOLINE-TYPE LANTERN FUEL (NAPHTHA), FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL,

KEROSENE, CHARCOAL LIGHTER FLUID, OR SIMILAR LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS TO START OR

‘FRESHEN UP’ A FIRE IN THIS STOVE. KEEP ALL SUCH LIQUIDS OR AEROSOLS WELL AWAY

FROM THE STOVE WHILE IT IS IN USE.

• DO NOT STORE FUEL WITHIN HEATER MINIMUM INSTALLATION CLEARANCES.

• BURN ONLY SEASONED NATURAL FIREWOOD.

• DO NOT BURN:

o GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,

o COAL OR CHARCOAL,

o TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,

o PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,

o FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,

o SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD, OR

o RAILROAD TIES.

• DO NOT ELEVATE THE FIRE BY USING A GRATE IN THIS STOVE.

• THIS APPLIANCE SHOULD BE MAINTAINED AND OPERATED AT ALL TIMES IN ACCORDANCE

WITH THESE INSTRUCTIONS.

WARNING: This product can expose you to chemicals including carbon

monoxide, which is known to the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects

or other reproductive harm. For more information go to www.P65warnings.ca.gov/


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2 GENERAL INFORMATION ON 2200 (OB02211)

2.1 APPLIANCE PERFORMANCE(1)

Fuel type Dry cordwood

Recommended heating area[*] 800 to 2,000 ft2 (74 to 186 m2)

Firebox volume 2.3 ft3 (0.065 m3)

Maximum burn time[*] 8 h

Maximum heat output(2) (dry cordwood) 70,000 BTU/h (20.5 kW)

Overall heat output rate (min. to max.)(2)(3) 11,700 BTU/h to 30,400 BTU/h (3.4 kW to 8.9 kW)

Average overall efficiency(3) - EPA Cribs / Douglas Fir 63.0% (HHV(4)) 67.0% (LHV(5))

Average overall efficiency(3) - Dry cordwood To come (HHV(4)) To come (LHV(5))

Optimum efficiency(2)(6) 75.0%

Average particulate emissions rate(7) 2.7 g/h (EPA / CSA B415.1-10)

Average CO(8) To come

[*] Recommended heating area and maximum burn time may vary subject to location in home, chimney draft, heat loss factors, climate, fuel type and other variables. The recommended heated area for a given appliance is defined by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature in the designated area in case of a power failure.

(1) Values are as measured per test method, except for the recommended heating area, firebox volume, maximum burn time and maximum heat output.

(2) The maximum heat output (dry cordwood) is based on a loading density varying between 15 lb/ft3 and 20 lb/ft3. Other performances are based on a fuel load prescribed by the standard. The specified loading density varies between 7 lb/ft³ and 12 lb/ft3. The moisture content is between 19% and 25%.

(3) As measured per CSA B415.1-10 stack loss method.

(4) Higher Heating Value of the fuel.

(5) Lower Heating Value of the fuel.

(6) Optimum overall efficiency at a specific burn rate (LHV).

(7) This appliance is officially tested and certified by an independent agency.

(8) Carbon monoxide.


8 _______________________________________________________________________________

2.2 GENERAL FEATURES

Maximum log length 18 in (457 mm) east-west*

Flue outlet diameter 6 in (152 mm)

Recommended connector pipe diameter 6 in (152 mm)

Type of chimney CAN/ULC S629, UL 103 HT (2100 °F)

Baffle material C-Cast

Approved for alcove installation Not approved

Approved for mobile home installation‡ Yes

Shipping weight (without option) 399 lb (181 kg)

Appliance weight (without option) 344 lb (156 kg)

Type of door Single, glass with steel frame

Type of glass Ceramic glass

Blower Optional (up to 130 CFM)

Particulate emission standard EPA / CSA B415.1-10

USA standard (safety) UL 1482

Canadian standard (safety) ULC S627

** East-west: through the door you see the longitudinal sides of the logs; north-south: through the door you see the tips of the logs.

‡ Mobile home (Canada) or manufactured home (USA): The US department of Housing and Urban Development describes “manufactured homes” better known as “mobile homes” as followed; buildings built on fixed wheels and those transported on temporary wheels/axles and set on a permanent foundation. In Canada, a mobile home is a dwelling for which the manufacture and assembly of each component is completed or substantially completed prior to being moved to a site for installation on a foundation and connection to service facilities and which conforms to the CAN/CSA-Z240 MH standard.


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10 ______________________________________________________________________________


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2.3 ZONE HEATING AND HOW TO MAKE IT WORK FOR YOU

Your new Osburn 2200 wood stove is a space heater, which means it is intended to heat the area it

is installed in, as well as spaces that connect to that area, although to a lower temperature. This is

called zone heating and it is an increasingly popular way to heat homes or spaces within homes.

Zone heating can be used to supplement another heating system by heating a particular space

within a home, such as a basement family room or an addition that lacks another heat source.

Although the stove may be able to heat the main living areas of your house to an adequate

temperature, we strongly recommend that you also have a conventional oil, gas or electric heating

system to provide backup heating.

Your success with zone heating will depend on several factors, including the correct sizing and

location of the stove, the size, layout and age of your home and your climate zone. Three-season

vacation homes can usually be heated with smaller stoves than houses that are heated all winter.

2.4 THE BENEFITS OF LOW EMISSIONS AND HIGH EFFICIENCY

The low smoke emissions produced by the special features inside the Osburn 2200 firebox mean

that your household will release up to 90 percent less smoke into the environment than if you

used an older conventional stove. But there is more to the emission control technologies than

protecting the environment.

The smoke released from wood when it is heated contains about half of the energy content of the

fuel. By burning the wood completely, your stove releases all the heat energy from the wood

instead of wasting it as smoke up the chimney. Also, the features inside the firebox allow you to

reduce the air supply to control heat output, while maintaining clean and efficient flaming

combustion, which boosts the efficient delivery of heat to your home.

The emission control and advanced combustion features of your stove can only work properly if

your fuel is in the correct moisture content range of 15 to 20 percent. See Section 3 of this manual

for suggestions on preparing fuelwood and judging its moisture.

2.5 THE SBI COMMITMENT TO YOU AND THE ENVIRONMENT

The SBI team is committed to protecting the environment, so we do everything we can to use only

materials in our products that will have no lasting negative impact on the environment.

2.5.1 WHAT IS YOUR NEW STOVE MADE OF?

The body of your stove, which is most of its weight, is carbon steel. Should it ever become

necessary many years in the future, almost the entire stove can be recycled into new products,

thus eliminating the need to mine new materials.

The paint coat on your stove is very thin. Its VOC content (Volatile Organic Components) is very

low. VOCs can be responsible for smog, so all the paint used during the manufacturing process

meets the latest air quality requirements with regards to VOC reduction or elimination.


12 ______________________________________________________________________________

The air tubes are stainless steel, which can also be recycled.

The C-Cast baffle is made of an aluminosilicate fibre material that is compressed with a binder to

form a rigid board. C-Cast can withstand temperatures above 2,000 °F. It is not considered

hazardous waste. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.

Firebrick is mainly composed of silicon dioxide, also known as silica, an earth derived product. It is

most commonly found in nature in the form of sand and clay. Disposal at a landfill is

recommended.

The door and glass gaskets are fibreglass which is spun from melted sand. Black gaskets have been

dipped into a solvent-free solution. Disposal at a landfill is recommended.

The door glass is a 4 mm thick ceramic material that contains no toxic chemicals. It is basically

made of raw earth materials such as sand and quartz that are combined in such a way to form a

glass at high temperatures. Ceramic glass will not re-melt in the same way as normal glass, so it

should not be recycled with your regular household products. Disposal at a landfill is

recommended.


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3 FUEL

3.1 MATERIALS THAT SHOULD NOT BE BURNED

• GARBAGE OF ANY KIND,

• COAL OR CHARCOAL,

• TREATED, PAINTED OR COATED WOOD,

• PLYWOOD OR PARTICLE BOARD,

• FINE PAPER, COLORED PAPER OR CARDBOARD,

• SALT WATER DRIFTWOOD,

• MANUFACTURED LOGS CONTAINING WAX OR CHEMICAL ADDITIVES,

• RAILROAD TIES,

• LIQUIDS SUCH AS KEROSCENE OR DIESEL FUEL TO START A FIRE.

3.2 HOW TO PREPARE OR BUY GOOD FIREWOOD

3.2.1 WHAT IS GOOD FIREWOOD?

Good firewood has been cut to the correct length for the stove, split in a range of sizes and

stacked in the open until its moisture content is reduced to 15 to 20 per cent.

3.2.2 TREE SPECIES

The tree species the firewood is produced from is less important than its moisture content. The

main difference in firewood from various tree species is the density of the wood. Hardwoods are

denser than softwoods. People who live in the coldest regions of North America usually have only

spruce, birch and poplar, other low-density species to burn and yet they can heat their homes

successfully.

Homeowners with access to both hardwood and softwood fuel sometimes use both types for

different purposes. For example, softer woods make good fuel for relatively mild weather in spring

and fall because they light quickly and produce less heat. Softwoods are not as dense as

hardwoods so a given volume of wood contains less energy. Using softwoods avoids overheating

the house, which can be a common problem with wood heating in moderate weather. Harder

woods are best for colder winter weather when more heat and longer burn cycles are desirable.

Note that hardwood trees like oak, maple, ash and beech are slower growing and longer lived than

softer woods like poplar and birch. That makes hardwood trees more valuable. The opinion that

only hardwoods are good to burn is outdated. Old, leaky cast iron stoves wouldn’t hold a fire

overnight unless they were fed large pieces of hardwood. That is no longer true. You can

successfully heat your home by using the less desirable tree species and give the forest a break at

the same time.


14 ______________________________________________________________________________

3.2.3 LOG LENGTH

Logs should be cut about 1” (25 mm) shorter

than the firebox so they fit in easily. Pieces that

are even slightly too long make loading the

stove very difficult. The most common standard

length of firewood is 16” (400 mm).

The pieces should be a consistent length, with a

maximum of 1” (25 mm) variation from piece to

piece.

3.2.4 PIECE SIZE

Firewood dries more quickly when it is split. Large unsplit rounds can take years to dry enough to

burn. Even when dried, unsplit logs are difficult to ignite because they don’t have the sharp edges

where the flames first catch. Logs as small as 3” (75 mm) should be split to encourage drying.

Wood should be split to a range of sizes, from about 3” to 6” (75 mm to 150 mm) in cross section.

Having a range of sizes makes starting and rekindling fires much easier. Often, the firewood

purchased from commercial suppliers is not split finely enough for convenient stoking. It is

sometimes advisable to resplit the wood before stacking to dry.


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3.2.5 HOW TO DRY FIREWOOD

Firewood that is not dry enough to burn is the cause of most complaints about wood stoves.

Continually burning green or unseasoned wood produces more creosote and involves lack of heat

and dirty glass door. See Section 5: Maintaining your wood heating system for concerns about

creosote.

Here are some things to consider in estimating drying time:

• firewood takes a long time to dry,

• firewood bought from a dealer is rarely dry enough to burn, so it is advisable to buy the wood

in spring and dry it yourself,

• drying happens faster in dry weather than in damp, maritime climates,

• drying happens faster in warm summer weather than in winter weather,

• small pieces dry more quickly than large pieces,

• split pieces dry more quickly than unsplit rounds,

• softwoods take less time to dry than hardwoods,

• softwoods like pine, spruce, and poplar/aspen can be dry enough to burn after being stacked

in the open for only the summer months,

• hardwoods like oak, maple and ash can take one, or even two years to dry fully, especially if

the pieces are big,

• firewood dries more quickly when stacked in the open where it is exposed to sun and wind; it

takes much longer to dry when stacked in a wood shed,

• firewood that is ready to burn has a moisture content between15 and 20% by weight and will

allow your stove to produce its highest possible efficiency.


16 ______________________________________________________________________________

3.2.6 JUDGING FIREWOOD MOISTURE CONTENT

You can find out if some firewood is dry enough to burn by using these guidelines:

• cracks form at the ends of logs as they dry,

• as it dries in the sun, the wood turns from white or cream coloured to grey or yellow,

• bang two pieces of wood together; seasoned wood sounds hollow and wet wood sounds dull,

• dry wood is much lighter in weight than wet wood,

• split a piece, and if the fresh face feels warm and dry it is dry enough to burn; if it feels damp, it

is too wet,

• burn a piece; wet wood hisses and sizzles in the fire and dry wood does not.

You could buy a wood moisture meter to test your firewood.

3.3 MANUFACTURED LOGS

Do not burn manufactured logs made of wax containing sawdust or logs with any chemical

additives. Manufactured logs made of 100% compressed sawdust can be burned, but be careful

not to burn too many of these logs at the same time. Start with one manufactured log and see

how the stove reacts. You can then increase the number of logs burned at a time making sure the

temperature never rises higher than 475 °F (246 °C) on a magnetic thermometer for installation on

single wall stove pipes or 900 °F (482 °C) on a probe thermometer for installation on double wall

stove pipe. The thermometer should be placed about 18” (457 mm) above the stove. Higher

temperatures can lead to overheat and damage your stove.


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4 OPERATING YOUR STOVE

4.1 YOUR FIRST FIRES

Two things will happen as you burn your first few fires; the paint will cure and the internal

components of the stove will be conditioned.

As the paint cures, some of the chemicals vaporize. The vapors are not poisonous, but they do

smell bad. Fresh paint fumes can also cause false alarms in smoke detectors. So, when you first

light your stove, be prepared by opening doors and/or windows to ventilate the house. As you

burn hotter and hotter fires, more of the painted surfaces reach the curing temperature of the

paint. The smell of curing paint does not disappear until you have burned one or two very hot

fires.

Burn one or two small fires to begin the curing and conditioning process. Then build bigger and

hotter fires until there is no longer any paint smell from the stove. Once the paint smell

disappears, your stove is ready for serious heating.

4.2 LIGHTING FIRES

Each person who heats with wood develops their own favorite way to light fires. Whatever

method you choose, your goal should be to get a hot fire burning quickly. A fire that starts fast

produces less smoke and deposits less creosote in the chimney. Here are three popular and

effective ways to start wood fires.

4.2.1 CONVENTIONAL FIRE STARTING

The conventional way to build a wood fire is to bunch

up 5 to 10 sheets of plain newspaper and place them

in the firebox. Next, place 10 or so pieces of fine

kindling on the newspaper. This kindling should be

very thin; less than 1” (25 mm). Next, place some

larger kindling pieces on the fine kindling. Open the

air control fully and light the newspaper. If you have

a tall, straight venting system you should be able to

close the door immediately and the fire will ignite. If

your venting system has elbows or an outside

chimney, you may need to leave the door closed but

unlatched for a few minutes as the newspaper ignites

and heat in the chimney produces some draft. Once

the fire has ignited, close the door and leave the air

control fully open.

A conventional kindling fire with paper

under finely split wood.

DO NOT LEAVE THE STOVE UNATTENDED WHEN THE DOOR IS SLIGHTLY OPENED DURING

IGNITION. ALWAYS CLOSE THE DOOR AFTER IGNITION.

After the kindling fire has mostly burned, you can add standard firewood pieces until you have a

fire of the right size for the conditions.


18 ______________________________________________________________________________

4.2.2 THE TOP DOWN FIRE

The top down fire starting method solves two problems with the conventional method: first, it

does not collapse and smother itself as it burns; and second, it is not necessary to build up the fire

gradually because the firebox is loaded before the fire is lit. A top down fire can provide up to two

hours of heating or more. The top down method only works properly if the wood is well-seasoned.

Start by placing three or four full-sized split pieces of dry firewood in the firebox. Next, place 4 or 5

more finely split pieces of firewood (2” to 3” [50 mm to 75 mm] in dia.) on the base logs at right

angles (log cabin style). Now place about 10 pieces of finely split kindling on the second layer at

right angles.

The fire is topped with about 5 sheets of newspaper. You can just bunch them up and stuff them in

between the kindling and the underside of the baffle. Or you can make newspaper knots by rolling

up single sheets corner to corner and tying a knot in them. The advantage of knots is that they

don’t roll off the fire as they burn. Light the newspaper and watch as the fire burns from top to

bottom.

4.2.3 TWO PARALLEL LOGS

Place two spit logs in the firebox. Place a few sheets of twisted newspaper between the logs. Now

place some fine kindling across the two logs and some larger kindling across those, log cabin style.

Light the newspaper.

4.2.4 USING FIRE STARTERS

Many people like to use commercial fire starters instead of newspaper. Some of these starters are

made of sawdust and wax and others are specialized flammable solid chemicals. Follow the

package directions for use.

Gel starter may be used but only if there are no hot embers present. Use only in a cold firebox to

start a fire.

DO NOT USE FLAMMABLE LIQUIDS SUCH AS GASOLINE, NAPHTHA, FUEL OIL, MOTOR OIL, OR

AEROSOLS TO START OR REKINDLE THE FIRE.

4.3 MAINTAINING WOOD FIRES

4.3.1 GENERAL ADVICE

Wood heating with a space heater is very different than other forms of heating. There will be

variations in the temperature in different parts of the house and there will be variations in

temperature throughout the day and night. This is normal, and for experienced wood burners

these are advantages of zone heating with wood.

Do not expect steady heat output from your stove. It is normal for its surface temperature to rise

after a new load of wood is ignited and for its temperature to gradually decline as the fire

progresses. This rising and falling of temperature can be matched to your household routines. For

example, the area temperature can be cooler when you are active, such as when doing housework

or cooking, and it can be warmer when you are inactive, such as when reading or watching

television.


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Wood burns best in cycles. A cycle starts when a new load of wood is ignited by hot coals and ends

when that load has been consumed down to a bed of charcoal about the same size as it was when

the wood was loaded. Do not attempt to produce a steady heat output by placing a single log on

the fire at regular intervals. Always place at least three, and preferably more, pieces on the fire at

a time so that the heat radiated from one piece helps to ignite the pieces next to it. Each load of

wood should provide several hours of heating. The size of each load can be matched to the

amount of heat needed.

When you burn in cycles, you rarely need to open the stove’s loading door while the wood is

flaming. This is an advantage because there is more chance that smoke will leak from the stove

when the door is opened as a full fire is burning. This is especially true if the chimney connector

has 90 degree elbows and if the chimney runs up the outside wall of the house.

IF YOU MUST OPEN THE DOOR WHILE THE FUEL IS FLAMING, OPEN THE AIR CONTROL FULLY FOR

A FEW MINUTES, THEN UNLATCH AND OPEN THE DOOR SLOWLY.

4.3.2 ASH REMOVAL

Ash should be removed from the firebox every two or three days of full time heating. Do not let

the ash build up in the firebox because it will interfere with proper fire management.

The best time to remove ash is after an overnight fire when the stove is relatively cool, but there is

still some chimney draft to draw the ash dust into the stove and prevent it from coming into the

room.

After ashes have been removed from the stove and placed in a tightly covered metal container,

they should be taken outside immediately. The closed container of ashes should be placed on a

non-combustible floor or on the ground well away from all combustible materials pending final

disposal. Ashes normally contain some live charcoal that can stay hot for several days. If the ashes

are disposed of by burial in soil or otherwise locally dispersed, they should be retained in the

closed container until all cinders have thoroughly cooled. Other waste shall not be placed in this

container.

NEVER STORE ASHES INDOORS OR IN A NON-METALIC CONTAINER OR ON A WOODEN DECK.

4.3.3 RAKING CHARCOAL

Rekindle the fire when you notice that the room temperature has fallen. You will find most of the

remaining charcoal at the back of the firebox, furthest from the door. Rake these coals towards

the door before loading. There are two reasons for this raking of the coals. First, it concentrates

them near where most of the combustion air enters the firebox and where they can ignite the new

load quickly, and second, the charcoal will not be smothered by the new load of wood. If you were

to simply spread the charcoal out, the new load will smoulder for a long time before igniting.

Remove ash first, and then rake charcoal towards the front of the firebox before loading so that it

will ignite the new load.


20 ______________________________________________________________________________

4.3.4 FIRING EACH NEW LOAD HOT

Place the new load of wood on and behind the charcoal, and not too close to the glass. Close the

door and open the air control fully. Leave the air control fully open until the firebox is full of

flames, the wood has charred to black and its edges are glowing red. Firing each load of wood hot

accomplishes a few things:

• drives the surface moisture from the wood,

• creates a layer of char on the wood, which slows down its release of smoke,

• heats the firebox components so they reflect heat back to the fire, and

• heats the chimney so it can produce strong, steady draft for the rest of the cycle.

Although it is important to fire each new load hot to prepare for a clean burn, do not allow the fire

to burn at full intensity for more than a few minutes.

DO NOT LEAVE THE STOVE UNATTENDED WHILE A NEW LOAD IS BEING FIRED HOT.

DO NOT OVERFIRE.

When you burn a new load of wood hot to heat up the wood, the stove and the chimney, the

result will be a surge of heat from the stove. This heat surge is welcome when the room

temperature is a little lower than desirable, but not welcome if the space is already warm.

Therefore, allow each load of wood to burn down so that the space begins to cool off a little

before loading. Letting the space cool before loading is one of the secrets to clean burning and

effective zone heating.

4.3.5 TURNING DOWN THE AIR SUPPLY

Once the firewood, firebox and chimney are hot, you can begin to reduce the air supply for a

steady burn.

As you reduce the air supply to the fire, two important things happen. First, the firing rate slows

down to spread the heat energy in the fuel over a longer period of time. Second, the flow rate of

exhaust through the stove and flue pipe slows down, which gives more time for the transfer of

heat from the exhaust. You will notice that as you reduce the air setting, the flames slow down.

This is your indication that the stove is burning at its peak efficiency.

If the flames get small and almost disappear when you turn down the air, you have turned down

the air too early, or your firewood is wetter than it should be. With good fuel and correct air

control use, the flames should slow down, but should stay large and steady, even as the air supply

is reduced.


______________________________________________________________________________ 21

4.3.6 BUILDING DIFFERENT FIRES FOR DIFFERENT NEEDS

Using the air control is not the only way to match the stove’s heat output to the heat demand.

Your house will need far less heat in October than in January to be kept at a comfortable

temperature. If you fill the firebox full in fall weather, you will either overheat the space or turn

the stove down so much that the fire will be smoky and inefficient. Here are some suggestions for

building fires to match different heat demand.

4.3.6.1 Small Fires to Take the Chill Off the House

To build a small fire that will produce a low heat output, use small pieces of firewood and load

them crisscross in the firebox. The pieces should be only 3” to 4” in diameter. After raking the

coals, you can lay two pieces parallel to each other corner to corner in the firebox and lay two

more across them in the other direction. Open the air control fully and only reduce the air after

the wood is fully flaming. This kind of fire is good for mild weather when you are around to tend

the stove and should provide enough heat for four hours or more. Small fires like this are a good

time to use softer wood species so there will be less chance of overheating the house.

4.3.6.2 Long Lasting Low Output Fires

Sometimes you will want to build a fire to last up to eight hours, but don’t need intense heat. In

this case use soft wood species and place the logs compactly in the firebox so the pieces are

packed tightly together. You will need to fire the load hot for long enough to fully char the log

surfaces before you can turn the air down. Make sure the fire is flaming brightly before leaving the

fire to burn.

4.3.6.3 High Output Fires for Cold Weather

When the heat demand is high during cold weather, you’ll need a fire that burns steadily and

brightly. This is the time to use your biggest pieces of hardwood fuel if you have it. Put the biggest

pieces at the back of the firebox and place the rest of the pieces compactly. A densely built fire like

this will produce the longest burn your stove is capable of.

You will need to be cautious when building fires like this because if the air is turned down too

much, the fire could smoulder. Make sure the wood is flaming brightly before leaving the fire to

burn.


22 ______________________________________________________________________________

4.3.6.4 Maximum Burn Cycle Times

The burn cycle time is the period between loading wood on a coal bed and the consumption of that wood back to a coal bed of the same size. The flaming phase of the fire lasts for roughly the first half of the burn cycle and the second half is the coal bed phase during which there is little or no flame. The length of burn you can expect from your stove, including both the flaming and coal bed phases, will be affected by a number of things, such as:

• firebox size, • the amount of wood loaded, • the species of wood you burn, • the wood moisture content, • the size of the space to be heated, • the climate zone you live in, and • the time of year.

The table below provides a very general indication of the maximum burn cycle times you are likely to experience, based on firebox volume.

FIREBOX VOLUME MAXIMUM BURN TIME

<1.5 cubic feet 3 to 5 hours

1.5 c.f. to 2.0 c.f 5 to 6 hours

2.0 c.f. to 2.5 c.f. 6 to 8 hours

2.5 c.f. to 3.0 c.f. 8 to 9 hours

>3.0 c.f. 9 to 10 hours

Long burn times are not necessarily an indication of efficient stove operation. When you are home during the day and able to tend the fire, it is preferable to build a smaller fire that might provide three or four hours of heating than to fully load the firebox for a much longer burn. Shorter burn cycles make it easier to match the heat output of the stove to the heat demand of the space.

4.3.6.5 North-South Fires Versus East-West Fires

In fireboxes that are roughly square, wood can be loaded so that looking through the glass door you see the ends of the logs (north-south) or the sides of the logs (east-west).

East-west loads that are built compactly break down slowly when heated, but the amount of wood you can load is limited because if you put in too many pieces, one may fall against the glass. East-west loads are excellent for long, low output fires for relatively mild weather.

North-south loads break down more quickly, but much more wood can be loaded at a time. This makes north-south loading good for high output, long lasting fires for cold weather.


______________________________________________________________________________ 23

5 MAINTAINING YOUR WOOD HEATING SYSTEM

5.1 STOVE MAINTENANCE

Your new stove will give many years of reliable service if you use and maintain it correctly. Some of

the internal components of the firebox, such as firebricks, baffles and air tubes, will wear over

time under intense heat. You should always replace defective parts with original parts (see

Appendix 5: Exploded Diagram and Parts List). For firing each load hot to begin a cycle as

described above will not cause premature deterioration of the stove. However, letting the stove

run with the air control fully open for entire cycles can cause damage over time. The hotter you

run the stove throughout burn cycles, the more quickly its components will deteriorate. For that

reason, never leave the stove unattended while a new load is being fired hot.

5.1.1 PLATED FINISH MAINTENANCE

If your appliance has a plated finish, use a metal polish and a soft cloth to clean it. Do not use

abrasives such as steel wool, steel pads or an abrasive cleaner for they may scratch the finish.

5.1.2 CLEANING DOOR GLASS

Under normal conditions, your door glass should stay relatively clear. If your firewood is dry

enough and you follow the operating instructions in this manual, a whitish, dusty deposit will form

on the inside of the glass after a week or so of use. This is normal and can be easily removed when

the stove is cool by wiping with a damp cloth or paper towel and then drying. Never try to clean

the glass when the stove is hot.

In spring and fall when the stove is run at lower temperatures, you may see some light brown

stains forming, especially at the lower corners of the glass. This indicates that the fire has been

smoky and some of the smoke has condensed on the glass. When the weather is mild, you may

find that letting the fire go out is better than trying to maintain a continuous fire. Use the

technique described above for building a fire to take the chill off the house.

If you do get brown stains on the glass you can remove them with special cleaners for wood stove

glass doors. Do not use abrasives to clean your stove’s door glass.

The deposits that form on the glass are the best indication of the quality of your fuel and how well

you are doing in operating the stove. Your goal should be clear glass with no brown stains. If you

continue to see brown stains on the glass, something about your fuel and operating procedure

needs to be changed. Stains on the glass indicate incomplete combustion of the wood, which also

means more smoke emissions and faster formation of creosote in the chimney.

If you see brown streaks coming from the edge of the glass, it is time to replace the gasket around

the glass. Visit your stove retailer to get the self-adhesive glass gasket and follow the instructions

below for installation.


24 ______________________________________________________________________________

5.1.3 DOOR ADJUSTMENT

In order for your stove to burn at its best efficiency, the door must provide a perfect seal with the

firebox. Therefore, the gasket should be inspected periodically making sure to obtain an air tight

fit. Airtightness can be improved with a simple latch mechanism adjustment. To adjust:

1. Remove the lock pin (A) (spring pin) by pulling and turning it using pliers.

2. Turn the handle counter clock wise one turn to increase pressure.

3. Re-install the lock pin (A) (spring pin) with a small hammer.

5.1.4 REPLACING THE DOOR GASKET

It is important to maintain the gasket in good condition. After a year or more of use, the door

gasket will compress and become hard, which may allow air to leak past it. You can test the

condition of the door gasket by closing and latching the door on a strip of paper. Test all around

the door. If the paper slips out easily anywhere, it is time to replace the gasket.

Use the correct replacement gasket that you can purchase from your retailer. The diameter and

density of the gasket is important in order to provide a good seal.


______________________________________________________________________________ 25

Place the door face-down on something soft like a cushion of rags or piece of carpet. Remove the

old gasket from the door by pulling and prying it out with an old screw driver. Then use the

screwdriver to scrape the old gasket adhesive from the door. Now run a 1/4” (6 mm) bead of high

temperature silicone in the door gasket groove. Starting from the middle of the hinge side, press

the gasket into the groove. Do not stretch the gasket as you place it. Leave the gasket about 1/2”

long when you cut it and press the end into the groove. Tuck any loose fibres under the gasket and

into the silicone. Close the door and do not use the stove for 24 hours.

5.1.5 REPLACING THE GLASS GASKET AND/OR THE GLASS

It is a good idea to replace the glass gasket along with the door gasket. The glass gasket is flat,

adhesive-backed, woven fibreglass. Remove the door gasket (A), the retaining screws (B) and the

metal frames (C) that hold the glasses (D) and (E) to the door frame (F). Lift out the glasses (D) and

(E) and pull off the old window gaskets. This is a good time to clean the glass thoroughly.

The gasket must be centred on the edge of the glass. To do this easily, peel back a section of the

paper covering the adhesive and place the gasket on a table with the adhesive side up. Stick the

end of the gasket to the middle of one edge, then press the edge of the glass down onto the

gasket, taking care that it is perfectly centred on the gasket. Peel off more of the backing and

rotate the glass and press the next section onto the gasket. Do not stretch the gasket as you place

it. Continue until you get to the start and trim the gasket to length. Now pinch the gasket to the

glass in a U shape, all around the glass. Reinstall the glass, being careful to centre the glass

carefully in the door. Do not over-tighten the screws. Note that the two main causes of broken

door glass are uneven placement in the door and over-tightening of retaining screws.


26 ______________________________________________________________________________

Do not abuse the glass door by striking or slamming shut. Do not use the stove if the glass is

broken. To change the glass, perform the same operation described above.

5.1.6 CLEANING AND PAINTING THE STOVE

Do not attempt to clean or paint the stove when the unit is hot. Painted surfaces can be wiped

down with a damp cloth. Plated surfaces may be scratched by abrasive cleaners. To maintain the

finish at its original brilliance, use only a damp soft cloth to clean plated surfaces.

If the paint becomes scratched or damaged, you can give your wood stove a brand new look by

repainting it with heat-resistant paint. Before painting, roughen the surface with fine sand paper,

wipe it down to remove dust, and apply two thin coats of paint. For best results, use the same

paint that was originally used on the stove, which is available in spray cans. See your dealer for

details.

5.2 CHIMNEY AND CHIMNEY CONNECTOR MAINTENANCE

5.2.1 WHY CHIMNEY CLEANING IS NECESSARY

Wood smoke can condense inside the chimney connector and chimney, forming a combustible

deposit called creosote. If creosote is allowed to build up in the venting system it can ignite when a

hot fire is burned in the stove and a very hot fire can progress to the top of the chimney. Severe

chimney fires can damage even the best chimneys. Smouldering, smoky fires can quickly cause a

thick layer of creosote to form. When you avoid smouldering so the exhaust from the chimney is

mostly clear, creosote builds up more slowly. Your new stove has the right characteristics to help

you to burn clean fires with little or no smoke, resulting in less creosote in the chimney.

5.2.2 HOW OFTEN SHOULD YOU CLEAN THE CHIMNEY?

It is not possible to predict how much or how quickly creosote will form in your chimney. It is

important, therefore, to check the build-up in your chimney monthly when getting used to the

new stove until you determine the rate of creosote formation. Even if creosote forms slowly in

your system, the chimney should be cleaned and inspected at least once each year.

It is recommended to clean thoroughly the chimney system at the end of every heating season.

During summer, the air is damper and with minimal air circulation within the stove or furnace, it

can mix with creosote and/or sooth deposits in the chimney system to form an acid that could

accelerate the corrosion process and induce premature decay of the steel. Corrosion damages are

not covered under warranty. Have your chimney system cleaned by a professional chimney sweep.

Use a plastic or steel brush.


______________________________________________________________________________ 27

Contact your local municipal or provincial fire authority for information on how to handle a

chimney fire. Have a clearly understood plan to handle a chimney fire.

5.2.3 CLEANING THE CHIMNEY

Chimney cleaning can be a difficult and

dangerous job. If you don’t have

experience cleaning chimneys, you might

want to hire a professional chimney sweep

to clean and inspect the system for the

first time. After having seen the cleaning

process, you can decide if it is a job you

would like to take on.

The most common equipment used are

fibreglass rods with threaded fittings and

stiff plastic brushes. The brush is forced up

and down inside the chimney flue to scrub

off the creosote.

The chimney connector assembly should

always be cleaned at the same time the

chimney is cleaned.

CAUTION: Operation of your stove without the baffle may cause unsafe and hazardous

temperature conditions and will void the warranty. NOTE: Before installing the firebrick, check to

ensure that none are broken or damaged in any way. If so, have the damaged ones replaced.

Check the firebrick for damage at least annually and replace any broken or damaged ones with

new ones. Inspection and cleaning of the chimney is facilitated by the removable baffle.


28 ______________________________________________________________________________

PART B - INSTALLATION

6 SAFETY INFORMATION

6.1 SUMMARY OF INSTALLATION CAUTIONS AND WARNINGS

• THE INFORMATION GIVEN ON THE CERTIFICATION LABEL AFFIXED TO THE APPLIANCE

ALWAYS OVERRIDES THE INFORMATION PUBLISHED, IN ANY OTHER MEDIA (OWNER’S

MANUAL, CATALOGUES, FLYERS, MAGAZINES AND/OR WEB SITES).

• MIXING OF APPLIANCE COMPONENTS FROM DIFFERENT SOURCES OR MODIFYING

COMPONENTS MAY RESULT IN HAZARDOUS CONDTIONS. WHERE ANY SUCH CHANGES ARE

PLANNED, STOVE BUILDER INTERNATIONAL INC. SHOULD BE CONTACTED IN ADVANCE.

• ANY MODIFICATION OF THE APPLIANCE THAT HAS NOT BEEN APPROVED IN WRITING BY THE

TESTING AUTHORITY VIOLATES CSA B365 (CANADA), AND ANSI NFPA 211 (USA).

• CONNECT THIS STOVE ONLY TO A LISTED FACTORY-BUILT CHIMNEY FOR USE WITH SOLID

FUEL OR TO A LINED MASONRY CHIMNEY CONFORMING TO NATIONAL AND LOCAL

BUILDING CODES.

• IF REQUIRED, A SUPPLY OF COMBUSTION AIR SHALL BE PROVIDED TO THE ROOM OR SPACE.

• DO NOT CONNECT TO OR USE IN CONJUNCTION WITH ANY AIR DISTRIBUTION DUCTWORK

UNLESS SPECIFICALLY APPROVED FOR SUCH INSTALLATION.

• DO NOT CONNECT THIS UNIT TO A CHIMNEY FLUE SERVING ANOTHER APPLIANCE.

• MAY BE INSTALLED IN A MOBILE HOME.

• THIS MOBILE HOME APPROVED STOVE REQUIRES INSTALLATION OF A FRESH AIR INTAKE KIT,

SOLD SEPARATELY.

WARNING: DO NOT INSTALL IN SLEEPING ROOM.

WARNING: THE STOVE MUST BE ATTACHED TO THE STRUCTURE OF THE MOBILE HOME.

CAUTION: THE STRUCTURAL INTEGRITY OF THE MOBILE HOME FLOOR, WALL, AND

CEILING/ROOF MUST BE MAINTAINED.

6.2 REGULATIONS COVERING STOVE INSTALLATION

When installed and operated as described in these instructions, the Osburn 2200 wood stove is

suitable for use as a freestanding heater in residential installations. The Osburn 2200 wood stove is

not intended for installation in a sleeping room of a mobile home.

In Canada, the CSA B365 Installation Code for Solid Fuel Burning Appliances and Equipment and

the CSA C22.1 Canadian National Electrical Code are to be followed in the absence of local code

requirements. In the USA, the ANSI NFPA 211 Standard for Chimneys, Fireplaces, Vents and Solid

Fuel-Burning Appliances and the ANSI NFPA 70 National Electrical Code are to be followed in the

absence of local code requirements.

This stove must be connected to a chimney complying with the requirements for Type HT

chimneys in the Standard for Factory-Built Chimneys for Residential Type and Building Heating

Appliances, UL 103 HT and ULC S629 or to a code-approved masonry chimney with a flue liner.


______________________________________________________________________________ 29

7 CLEARANCES TO COMBUSTIBLE MATERIAL

The clearances shown in this section have been determined by test according to procedures set

out in safety standards ULC S627 (Canada), UL1482 (U.S.A.). When the stove is installed so that its

surfaces are at or beyond the minimum clearances specified, combustible surfaces will not

overheat under normal and even abnormal operating conditions.

No part of the stove or flue pipe may be located closer to combustibles than the minimum

clearances given below.

7.1 LOCATION OF THE CERTIFICATION LABEL

Since the information given on the certification label affixed to the appliance always overrides the

information published, in any other media (owner’s manual, catalogues, flyers, magazines and/or

web sites) it is important to refer to it in order to have a safe and compliant installation. In

addition, you will find information about your stove (model, serial number, etc.). You can find the

certification label on the back of the stove.

7.2 CLEARANCES TO WALLS AND CEILING

The clearances to combustible walls may be slightly different in Canada and the U.S.A. and may

also differ depending on whether you use single or double wall flue pipe. Please be sure to choose

the correct clearance for your location and type of flue pipe. See figure Clearances to combustible.

APPLIANCE CLEARANCES

(INSTALLATION WITH SINGLE WALL

PIPE CONNECTOR)

CANADA USA

A 15 1/2" (394 mm) 13 1/2" (343 mm)

B 17" (432 mm) 17" (432 mm)

C 10" (254 mm) 10" (254 mm)

K 48" (1220 mm) 48" (1220 mm)

L 84" (213 cm) 84" (213 cm)

APPLIANCE CLEARANCES

(INSTALLATION WITH DOUBLE WALL

PIPE CONNECTOR)

CANADA USA

A 5" (127 mm) 5" (127 mm)

B 20 1/2" (521 mm) 20 1/2" (521 mm)

C 3" (76 mm) 3" (76 mm)

K 48" (1220 mm) 48" (1220 mm)

L 84" (213 cm) 84" (213 cm)


30 ______________________________________________________________________________

If the above clearances are met, then the distances measured from the flue outlet will be:

DISTANCES* FROM PIPE CONNECTOR

TO THE COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS

CANADA USA

D 18" (457 mm) 16" (406 mm)

E 27" (686 mm) 27" (686 mm)

F 20" (508 mm) 20" (508 mm)

DISTANCES* FROM PIPE CONNECTOR

TO THE COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS

CANADA USA

D 7 1/4" (184 mm) 7 1/4" (184 mm)

E 30" (762 mm) 30" (762 mm)

F 13" (330 mm) 13" (330 mm)

*The pipe distances listed in this table refer to the distances obtained when the stove is installed

in accordance with the appliance clearances above mentioned. However, you can install the

stove at reduced clearances; follow the instructions in Section 7.4: Reducing Wall and Ceiling

Clearances Safely. Where they are followed, the new distance of the pipe to combustible

materials must be respected in the appropriate certification of the pipe.

Clearances for mobile homes

MOBILE HOME APPLIANCE CLEARANCES (INSTALLATION

WITH DOUBLE WALL PIPE CONNECTOR)

CANADA USA

A 5" (127 mm) 5" (127 mm)

B 20 1/2" (521 mm) 20 1/2" (521 mm)

C 3" (76 mm) 3" (76 mm)

K 48" (1220 mm) 48" (1220 mm)

L 84" (213 cm) 84" (213 cm)

If the above clearances are met, then the distances measured from the flue outlet will be:

DISTANCES* FROM PIPE CONNECTOR TO THE

COMBUSTIBLE MATERIALS

CANADA USA

D 7 1/4" (184 mm) 7 1/4" (184 mm)

E 30" (762 mm) 30" (762 mm)

F 13" (330 mm) 13" (330 mm)

*The pipe distances listed in this table refer to the distances obtained when the stove is installed

in accordance with the appliance clearances above mentioned. However, you can install the

stove at reduced clearances; follow the instructions in Section 7.4: Reducing Wall and Ceiling

Clearances Safely. Where they are followed, the new distance of the pipe to combustible

materials must be respected in the appropriate certification of the pipe.


______________________________________________________________________________ 31

Clearances to combustible materials and floor protection


32 ______________________________________________________________________________

7.3 FLOOR PROTECTOR

Your stove has been conceived to prevent the floor from overheating. However, it must be placed

on a noncombustible surface to protect the floor from hot embers that could fall from the stove

while loading or cleaning. There are differences between floor protections in Canada and in the

United States, as it is illustrated in the table below and on the figure Clearances to combustible

materials and floor protection.

FLOOR PROTECTOR*

CANADA USA

G 8" (203 mm) – Note 1 N/A (Canada only)

H 8’’ (203 mm) N/A (Canada only)

I 18" (457 mm)

From door opening

16" (406 mm)

From door opening

J N/A (USA only) 8" (203 mm)

M 8" (203 mm) N/A (Canada only)

N N/A (USA only) Note 2

*Steel with a minimum thickness of 0.015" (0.38 mm) or ceramic tiles sealed together with

grout. No protection is required if the unit is installed on a non-combustible floor (ex: concrete).

Note 1: The floor protection at the back of the stove is limited to the stove’s required

clearance if such clearance is smaller than 8 inches (203 mm).

Note 2: Only required under the horizontal section of the connector. Must exceed each side of

the connector by at least 2 inches (51 mm).


______________________________________________________________________________ 33

7.4 REDUCING WALL AND CEILING CLEARANCES SAFELY

It is often desirable to reduce the

minimum installation clearances by

placing the stove closer to walls so

the installation takes up less floor

space. You can safely reduce the

minimum clearances by

permanently installing a shield

between the stove and

combustible material. The rules for

safe shields can be complicated, so

read them carefully and follow

them exactly. Note that there may

be minor regional differences in

clearance reduction rules so be

sure to check with your building or

fire inspector before proceeding.

7.4.1 SHIELD CONSTRUCTION RULES

See figure Clearances for shield construction to match each letter to a clearance.

- Adhesives used in shield construction must not ignite or lose adhesive qualities at

temperatures likely to be encountered.

- Mounting hardware which extends from the shield surface into combustibles may be used only

at the edges of the shield.

- Mounting hardware must allow full vertical ventilation.

A Minimum clearance between the appliance top and an unshielded combustible ceiling:

1353 mm (53.25 in.).

B Shield extension above appliance: 500 mm (20 in.).

C Minimum space behind shield: 25 mm (1 in.). In Canada 21 mm (7/8 in).

D Clearance along the bottom of shield: minimum: 25 mm (1 in.) and maximum: 75 mm (3 in.).

E Minimum clearance along the top of shield at ceiling: 75 mm (3 in.).

F Mounting hardware must not be located closer than 200 mm (8 in.) from the vertical centre

line of the appliance.

G Edge clearance for ceiling shields to side and back walls: 75 mm (3 in.).

H Shield extension beyond each side of appliance: 450 mm (18 in.).


34 ______________________________________________________________________________

Clearances for shield construction


______________________________________________________________________________ 35

7.4.2 TABLE OF CLEARANCE REDUCTION PERCENTAGES

Type of shield

Clearances may be reduced by these

percentages

Sides

and rear %

Top %

(ceiling)

Can/USA

(%)

USA

min.

Can/USA

(%)

USA

min.

Sheet metal, a minimum of 24 gauge

(0.61 mm) in thickness , spaced out at

least 25 mm (1 in)* by non-

combustible spacers

67 12 in 50 18 in

Ceramic tiles, or equivalent non-

combustible material, on non-

combustible board spaced out at least

25 mm (1 in)* by non-combustible

spacers

50 18 in 33 24 in

Ceramic tiles, or equivalent non-

combustible material, on non-

combustible board, with a minimum

of 24 gauge (0.61 mm) sheet metal

backing spaced out at least 25 mm

(1 in)* by non-combustible spacers

67 12 in 50 24 in

Brick, spaced out at least 25 mm

(1 in)* by non-combustible spacers 50 18 in N/A N/A

Brick, with a minimum of 24 gauge

(0.61 mm) sheet metal backing,

spaced out at least 25 mm (1 in)* by

non-combustible spacers

67 12 in N/A N/A

* In Canada this space can be 21 mm (7/8 in)


36 ______________________________________________________________________________

8 THE VENTING SYSTEM

8.1 GENERAL

The venting system, made up of the chimney and the connecting pipe between the stove and the

chimney, acts as the engine that drives your wood heating system. Even the best stove will not

function safely and efficiently as intended if it is not connected to a suitable chimney.

The heat in the flue gases that pass from the stove and chimney connector into the chimney is not

waste heat. This heat is what the chimney uses to make the draft that draws in combustion air,

keeps smoke inside the stove and safely vents exhaust to outside. You can think of heat in the flue

gas as the fuel the chimney uses to make draft.

8.2 SUITABLE CHIMNEYS

Your wood stove will provide optimum efficiency and performance when connected to a 6-inch

diameter chimney flue system. The connection to a chimney having a diameter of at least 5 inches

(Canada only) or no more than 7 inches is permitted, if it allows the proper venting of combustion

gases and that such application is verified and authorized by a qualified installer. Otherwise, the

diameter of the flue should be 6 inches.

To be suitable, a factory-built metal

chimney must comply with UL 103 HT

(U.S.A.) or ULC S629 (Canada).

8.2.1 FACTORY-BUILT METAL CHIMNEYS

These are sometimes referred to as ‘high

temp’ chimneys because they have the

special characteristics to withstand the

temperatures that can be created by wood

burning stoves. Factory-built chimneys are

tested as a system with all the necessary

components for installation. The

instructions provided with the chimney by

its manufacturer are the only reliable

source of installation guidelines. To be safe

and effective, the chimney must be

installed exactly in accordance with the

manufacturer’s instructions. Use only

components intended for the brand and

model of chimney you are using. Never

substitute parts from other chimney

brands or fabricate your own

components. The chimney must be a type

suitable for solid fuel.


______________________________________________________________________________ 37

8.2.2 FACTORY-BUILT METAL CHIMNEYS

IN MOBILE HOMES

For use in a mobile home, this stove is to

be connected to a 6” in diameter double

wall factory built chimney conforming to

CAN/ULC-S629, Standards for 650°C

Factory-built chimney. The total length of

the flue system should be at least 12 feet

including elbows, from the top of the

stove.

To maintain an effective vapour barrier,

insulation and waterproof at the chimney

and outside flue pipe, install a mobile

home roof flashing and seal it with

silicone.

8.2.3 MASONRY CHIMNEYS

The stove may also be connected to a

masonry chimney, provided the chimney

complies with the construction rules found

in the building code enforced locally. The

chimney must have either a clay liner or a

suitably listed stainless steel liner. If the

masonry chimney has a square or

rectangular liner that is larger in cross

sectional area than a round 6” flue, it

should be relined with a suitably listed 6”

stainless steel liner. Do not downsize the

flue to less than 6” unless the venting

system is straight and exceeds 25 feet in

height. When passing through a

combustible wall, the use of an insulated

listed thimble is required.


38 ______________________________________________________________________________

8.3 MINIMUM CHIMNEY HEIGHT

The top of the chimney should be tall

enough to be above the air

turbulence caused when wind blows

against the house and its roof. The

chimney must extend at least 1 m (3

ft.) above the highest point of

contact with the roof, and at least 60

cm (2 ft.) higher than any roof line or

obstacle within a horizontal distance

of 3 m (10 ft.).

8.4 THE LINK BETWEEN THE CHIMNEY AND THE HOUSE

Because the venting system is the engine that drives the wood heating system, it must have the

right characteristics. The signs of bad system design are cold backdrafting when there is no fire in

the stove, slow kindling of new fires, and smoke roll-out when the door is opened for loading.

There are two guidelines to follow. First, the chimney should be installed up through the heated

space of the house, not out and up an outside wall. Second, the chimney should penetrate the top

of the building at or near the highest heated space.

8.4.1 WHY INSIDE CHIMNEYS ARE PREFERRED

Venting systems that rise straight up from the stove flue collar provide the best performance.

Chimneys that rise inside the warm space of the house tend to provide a small amount of draft

even when there is no fire burning. This means that when you light a fire, the initial smoke goes up

the chimney and strong draft builds quickly as the chimney flue warms up. Although they are

common in North America, chimneys that exit a house wall and run up outside can cause

problems.


______________________________________________________________________________ 39

Good System Design

Inside chimneys are preferred because even when

no fire is burning, there is normally upward flow in

the system.

Inferior System Design

Outside chimneys are a problem because

when no fire burns they will go into cold

backdraft if the stove is installed low in the

house.

8.4.2 WHY THE CHIMNEY SHOULD CROSS THE HIGHEST HEATED SPACE

When it is cold outside, the warm air in the house is buoyant so it tends to rise. This tendency of

warm air to rise creates a slight pressure difference in the house. Called ‘stack effect’, it produces

a slightly negative pressure low in the house (relative to outside) and a slightly positive pressure

zone high in the house. If there is no fire burning in a heater connected to a chimney that is

shorter than the warm space inside the house, the slight negative pressure low in the house will

compete against the desired upward flow in the chimney.

There are two reasons why the chimney

in the house at right will cold backdraft

when it is cold outside and there is no

fire burning in the stove. First, the

chimney runs up the outside of the

house, so the air in it is colder and

denser than the warm air in the house.

And second, the chimney is shorter than

the heated space of the house, meaning

the negative pressure low in the house

will pull outside air down the chimney,

through the stove and into the room.

Even the finest stove will not work well

when connected to this chimney.


40 ______________________________________________________________________________

8.5 SUPPLY OF COMBUSTION AIR

In Canada, wood stoves are not required to have a supply of combustion air from outdoors (except

in mobile homes) because research has shown that these supplies do not give protection against

house depressurization and may fail to supply combustion air during windy weather. However, to

protect against the risk of smoke spillage due to house depressurization, a carbon monoxide (CO)

detector/alarm is required in the room where the stove is installed. The CO detector will provide

warning if for any reason the wood stove fails to function correctly.

8.5.1 COMBUSTION AIR SUPPLY IN MOBILE HOMES

Only a wood stove certified and labelled as ‘mobile home approved’ may be installed in a mobile

home. This Osburn 2200 stove is ‘mobile home approved’. Wood stoves installed in mobile homes

must have a ducted supply of combustion air from outdoors. This air supply should be routed

down through the house floor into the vented crawl space under the mobile home. The air supply

duct should be non-combustible aluminum flex duct with a screened weatherhood on the outside

end.

Note: Fabric duct may also be used, provided it is suitable for HVAC use and meets the

requirements of ULC-S110 or UL-181 Class 1 standards. It must have a non-combustible insulation

and be corrosion resistant.

Where a mobile home has been converted to a standard house by mounting it on a permanent

basement foundation, the supply of outdoor air is not required.

8.5.2 AIR SUPPLY IN CONVENTIONAL HOUSES

The safest and most reliable supply of combustion air for your wood stove is from the room in

which it is installed. Room air is already preheated so it will not chill the fire, and its availability is

not affected by wind pressures on the house. Contrary to commonly expressed concerns, almost

all tightly-sealed new houses have enough natural leakage to provide the small amount of air

needed by the stove. The only case in which the wood stove may not have adequate access to

combustion air is if the operation of a powerful exhaust device (such as a kitchen range exhaust)

causes the pressure in the house to become negative relative to outdoors.

Some jurisdictions in the United States require that wood stoves have a supply of combustion air

from outdoors. If you do install an air supply through the wall of the house, be aware that its

pressure can be affected during windy weather. If you notice changes in wood stove performance

in windy weather, and in particular if smoke puffs from the stove, you should disconnect the

outdoor air duct from the stove and remove the duct. In some windy conditions, negative pressure

at the duct weatherhood outside the house wall may draw hot exhaust gases from the stove

backwards through the duct to outdoors. Check the outdoor air duct for soot deposits when the

full system is cleaned and inspected at least once each year.

8.6 INSTALLING THE CHIMNEY CONNECTOR

The chimney connector is the single or double wall pipe installed between the stove flue collar and

the chimney breech. Single wall pipe components are available from most hardware and building

supply stores. These components are not usually tested to a particular standard and certified as

compliant. Therefore, a list of rules found in solid fuel installation codes apply to the installation of

single wall pipe.


______________________________________________________________________________ 41

Double wall chimney connectors are tested and certified. The rules for double wall pipe are found

in the manufacturer’s installation instructions. These rules will be very different than those for

single wall.

8.6.1 INSTALLATION OF SINGLE WALL CHIMNEY CONNECTOR

The chimney connector assembly has been called ‘the weak link’ in the safety of wood heating

systems because failure to install the connector properly (which has been common in the past) can

result in house fires.

The best flue pipe assembly is one that rises straight up from the stove to the base of the chimney

with no elbows. Straight assemblies are less likely to cause problems like smoke roll-out when the

door is opened for loading. They are also more stable and easier to maintain than assemblies with

elbows. Horizontal runs of flue pipe should be avoided where possible because they reduce

chimney draft.

Use 45 degree elbows where possible, instead of 90 degree elbows.


42 ______________________________________________________________________________

The rules below are based on those found in the CSA B365 installation code. Please carefully

follow these installation instruction rules, or those enforced where you live.

• Maximum overall length of straight pipe: 3 m (10 ft.) including elbows.

• Minimum clearance from combustible material: 450 mm (18 in.). The minimum clearance may

be reduced by 50 percent to 225 mm (9 in.) if suitable shielding is installed either on the pipe

or on the combustible surface.

• The assembly should be as short and direct as possible between the stove and chimney. The

use of two 45 degree elbows is often preferable to a single 90 degree elbow because less

turbulence is created in the exhaust flow and they result in less horizontal run.

• Maximum number of 90-degree elbows: 2.

• Maximum unsupported horizontal length: 1 m (3 feet).

• Galvanized flue pipes must not be used because the coatings vaporize at high temperatures

and release dangerous gases. Use black painted flue pipes.

• Flue pipes must be at least 24 gauge in thickness.

• Flue pipe joints should overlap 30 mm (1 1/4 in.)

• Each joint in the assembly must be fastened with at least three screws.

• The assembly must have allowance for expansion: elbows in assemblies allow for expansion;

straight assemblies should include an inspection wrap with one end unfastened, or a telescopic

section.

• Minimum upward slope towards the chimney: 20 mm/m (1/4 in/ft.).

• One end of the assembly must be securely fastened to the flue collar with 3 sheet metal

screws and the other end securely fastened to the chimney.

• There must be provision for cleaning of the pipes, either through a clean out or by removal of

the pipe assembly. Removal of the assembly should not require that the stove be moved.

• The male ends of the sections must be oriented towards the appliance so that falling dust and

condensation stay inside the pipe.

• A flue pipe must never pass through a combustible floor or ceiling or through an attic, roof

space, closet or concealed space.

• Where passage through a wall or partition of combustible construction is desired, the

installation shall conform to CAN/CSA-B365, Installation Code for Solid-Fuel-Burning

Appliances and Equipment.

The ideal flue pipe assembly is one that rises straight up from the appliance flue collar and directly

into the chimney with no elbows. A straight up connector assembly needs either a telescopic

length or an inspection wrap (pipe coupler) to allow it to be assembled and disassembled without

moving the stove.

A straight flue pipe assembly offers the least restriction to gas flow and results in stronger draft.

Straight assemblies also need less maintenance because there are no corners to collect creosote.

The chimney connector must be in good condition.


______________________________________________________________________________ 43

APPENDIX 1: INSTALLING THE OPTIONAL DOOR OVERLAY, TRIVET AND

LOUVER ASSEMBLY

In order to complete the assembly of your wood stove, you need to install the door overlay. See

figure below for installation instructions:

Remove the four screws (A) from the door. Position the overlay (B) on the door. Secure it using the

four screws (A) removed previously.


44 ______________________________________________________________________________

Trivet and Louver Assembly Installation

1. Unpack the louver assembly (A) and trivet (C).

2. Remove the two screws (B) from the front of the firebox, above the door.

3. Position the louver assembly (A) above door and use the same screws (B) to secure the

assembly to the firebox.

4. Place trivet (C) over the opening on the top of the stove.


______________________________________________________________________________ 45

APPENDIX 2: INSTALLING THE OPTIONAL FRESH AIR INTAKE KIT

(OA10500)

When installed with a fresh air intake kit, the stove must be anchored to the floor.

This mobile home approved stove requires installation of a fresh air intake kit OA10500 (A) and an

insulated fresh air intake pipe AC02090 (B), sold separately.

Installation on the back:

Using a pair of pliers, remove the square metal plate located on the back of the pedestal.

Connect the fresh air intake kit components (A) to the insulated pipe (B) and the stove.


46 ______________________________________________________________________________

APPENDIX 3: INSTALLATION AND USE OF THE OPTIONAL

BLOWER

An optional blower can be installed on the back

of the stove to increase the flow of air past

heat exchange surfaces and to help circulate

warm air in the room. When used regularly, the

blower can provide a small increase in

efficiency, up to 2 percent. However, the use of

a blower should not be used as a way to gain

more output from a stove that is undersized for

the space it is intended to heat. You can

purchase this option through your Osburn

dealer. Make sure to specify this part number:

# OA10510.

Your blower has a rheostat, see the illustration

on the right to identify the different adjustment

positions; either from high (HI) to low (LO) or

closed (OFF).

When using the optional blower, allow the stove to reach operating temperature (approximately

one hour), before turning it on. The increased airflow from the blower cools the firebox and could

affect the start-up combustion efficiency if the blower is turned on too early.


______________________________________________________________________________ 47

CAUTION: ENSURE THAT THE BLOWER’S

POWER CORD IS NOT IN CONTACT WITH ANY

SURFACE OF THE STOVE TO PREVENT

ELECTRICAL SHOCK OR FIRE DAMAGE. DO

NOT RUN THE POWER CORD BENEATH THE

STOVE.


48 ______________________________________________________________________________

APPENDIX 4: INSTALLATION OF SECONDARY AIR TUBES AND BAFFLE

BAFFLE INSTALLATION

1. Stack the baffle boards (A) on top of the c-cast boards (B) as shown below.

2. Put them on the horizontal air duct (C). Afterwards, push them towards the bottom and sides

so that they rest on the back of the firebox (D) and on the side air ducts. Install the baffle

support/extension (H) ensuring that it fits between the front risers and hold it in place. Install

the front secondary air tube ensuring air holes face forward. Install the cotter pins as indicated

in the secondary air tubes installation procedure. Installing the front secondary air tube (E) will

stabilize baffle assembly during the next step.


______________________________________________________________________________ 49

3. Install the middle and rear secondary air tubes ensuring air holes face forward. Install the

cotter pins as indicated in the secondary air tubes installation procedure.

1 Baffle support tab

2 Side plenums (2)

3 Air tubes (4)

4 Baffle board

5 C-Cast baffle board

6 Front baffle support / extension

7 Air tube spigots

7

4

5

6

3

1

2


50 ______________________________________________________________________________

SECONDARY AIR TUBE INSTALLATION

Important Notes:

The air tubes are identified for placement as follows:

Model Type of tube

2200 Front ► 67 holes of 0.156"

Middle front ► 67 holes of 0.140"

Middle rear ► 67 holes of 0.140"

Rear ► 67 holes of 0.125"

All firebrick and C-cast baffles must be properly in place for correct burning operation. Have any

damaged firebricks replaced. Check the firebricks annually for damage and replace if they are

broken or damaged. See Appendix 5: Exploded Diagram and Parts List for the firebrick layout.

Install the side & back firebricks first, and then the bottom firebricks.


______________________________________________________________________________ 51

APPENDIX 5: EXPLODED DIAGRAM AND PARTS LIST


52 ______________________________________________________________________________

IMPORTANT: THIS IS DATED INFORMATION. When requesting service or replacement parts for

your stove, please provide the model number and the serial number. We reserve the right to

change parts due to technology upgrade or availability. Contact an authorized dealer to obtain any

of these parts. Never use substitute materials. Use of non-approved parts can result in poor

performance and safety hazards.

# Item Description Qty

1 OA10140 BLACK DOOR OVERLAY 1

1 OA10150 BRUSHED NICKEL DOOR OVERLAY 1

1 OA10145 GOLD DOOR OVERLAY 1

2 AC07868 1/2" BLACK COIL HANDLE 1

3 SE35101 DOOR ASSEMBLY 2200 SERIE WITHOUT OVERLAY 1

4 AC26005 DOOR HANDLE AND LATCH KIT 1800-2200 SERIE 1

5 AC09185 DOOR LATCH KIT 1

6 30112 SPRING PIN 5/16" X 1 3/8" 1

7 SE35107 REMPLACEMENT GLASS WITH GASKET 5 3/8" X 11 23/32" 2

8 AC06400 BLACK SELF-ADHESIVE GLASS GASKET KIT (6') 3

9 SE35108 REMPLACEMENT GLASS WITH GASKET 17 1/2" X 11 23/32" 1

10 PL35103 TOP OR BOTTOM GLASS RETAINER OSBURN 2200 2

11 PL35102 SIDE GLASS RETAINER OSBURN 2200 2

12 OA11390 SILICONE & DOOR GASKET REPLACEMENT KIT 7/8" (8 FEET) 1

13 30026 THREAD CUTTING SCREW 10-24 F 5/8" HEX WASHER HEAD 18

14 PL35015 ASH SHELF OSBURN 2200 STOVE 1

15 28062 BLACK DRAWER HANDLE 3 25/32" 1

16 30108 MECHANICAL SCREW M4 X 4MM PAN PHILLIPS ZINC 2

17 SE35047 ASH DRAWER 1

18 99999 BUILD TO ORDER 1

19 PL35041 RIGHT DECORATIVE PANEL OSBURN 2200 STOVE 1

20 99999 BUILD TO ORDER 1

21 SE35052 TRIVET ASSEMBLY (2S1012) 1

21 SE35052PN NICKEL TRIVET ASSEMBLY 1

21 SE35052PG GOLD TRIVET ASSEMBLY (2S1087) 1

22 OA10107 BRUSHED NICKEL LOUVRE AND TRIVET KIT 1

22 OA10100 BLACK LOUVRE AND TRIVET KIT 1

22 OA10105 GOLD LOUVRE AND TRIVET KIT 1

23 PL35042 LEFT DECORATIVE PANEL OSBURN 2200 STOVE 1

24 PL35056 SHIM 1

25 SE35021 HINGE ASSEMBLY 2

26 AC07866 1/4" BLACK COIL HANDLE 1

27 PL35023 AIR CONTROL COVER 1

28 SE35013 AIR CONTROL ROD 1

29 30060 THREAD-CUTTING SCREW 1/4-20 X 1/2" F HEX STEEL SLOT WASHER C102 ZINC 2


______________________________________________________________________________ 53

# Item Description Qty

30 SE34021-01 AIR CONTROL DAMPER 1

31 SE16059 ASH DUMP PLUG 1

32 29020 4 1/2'' X 9'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK HD 7

33 29011 4'' X 9" X 1 1/4" REFRACTORY BRICK HD 2

34 29001 4'' X 8'' X 1 1/4'' REFRATORY BRICK HD 3

35 PL36116 3 1/2" X 5 1/8'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK 1

36 29005 6" X 8 1/4" X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK HD 1

37 PL36117 2 3/4" X 4'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK 1

38 PL36060 3 1/2" X 9'' X 1 1/4'' REFRACTORY BRICK 2

39 PL35057 BRICK RETAINER 2

40 PL35029 FRONT SECONDARY AIR TUBE 1

41 PL35027 MIDDLE SECONDARY AIR TUBE 2

42 PL35028 REAR SECONDARY AIR TUBE 1

43 30068 STAINLESS STEEL COTTER PIN 1/8" X 1 1/2" 4

44 21209 BAFFLE VERMICULITE BOARD 13" X 10 15/16" X 1 1/4" 2

45 PL35030 10 7/8" X 13 1/4" X 1/2" BAFFLE INSULATION 2

46 OA10510 130 CFM BLOWER FD006 1

47 60013 POWER CORD 96" X 18-3 type SJT 1

48 44070 CROSSFLOW BLOWER 115V-60Hz-56W (B) 1

49 44080 RHEOSTAT WITH NUT 1

50 44087 RHEOSTAT NUT 1

51 44085 RHEOSTAT KNOB 1

52 SE45055 INSTRUCTION MANUAL KIT OSBURN 2200 STOVE 1


54 ______________________________________________________________________________

OSBURN LIMITED LIFETIME WARRANTY The warranty of the manufacturer extends only to the original retail purchaser and is not transferable. This warranty covers brand new

products only, which have not been altered, modified nor repaired since shipment from factory. Proof of purchase (dated bill of sale),

model name and serial number must be supplied when making any warranty claim to your OSBURN dealer.

This warranty applies to normal residential use only. Damages caused by misuse, abuse, improper installation, lack of

maintenance, over firing, negligence or accident during transportation, power failures, downdrafts, venting problems or

under-estimated heating area are not covered by this warranty. The recommended heated area for a given appliance is defined

by the manufacturer as its capacity to maintain a minimum acceptable temperature in the designated area in case of a power

failure.

This warranty does not cover any scratch, corrosion, distortion, or discoloration. Any defect or damage caused by the use of

unauthorized or other than original parts voids this warranty. An authorized qualified technician must perform the installation in

accordance with the instructions supplied with this product and all local and national building codes. Any service call related to an

improper installation is not covered by this warranty.

The manufacturer may require that defective products be returned or that digital pictures be provided to support the claim. Returned

products are to be shipped prepaid to the manufacturer for investigation. Transportation fees to ship the product back to the purchaser

will be paid by the manufacturer. Repair work covered by the warranty, executed at the purchaser’s domicile by an authorized qualified

technician requires the prior approval of the manufacturer. All parts and labour costs covered by this warranty are limited according to

the table below.

The manufacturer, at its discretion, may decide to repair or replace any part or unit after inspection and investigation of the defect. The

manufacturer may, at its discretion, fully discharge all obligations with respect to this warranty by refunding the wholesale price of any

warranted but defective parts. The manufacturer shall, in no event, be responsible for any uncommon, indirect, consequential damages

of any nature, which are in excess of the original purchase price of the product. A one-time replacement limit applies to all parts

benefiting from lifetime coverage. This warranty applies to products purchased after June 1st, 2015.

DESCRIPTION

WARRANTY APPLICATION*

PARTS LABOUR

Combustion chamber (welds only) and cast iron door frame. Lifetime 5 years

Ceramic glass (thermal breakage only**), plating (manufacturing defect**),

and convector air-mate. Lifetime N/A

Surrounds, heat shields, ash drawer, steel legs, pedestal, trims (aluminum

extrusions), C-Cast baffle**, vermiculite baffle**, secondary air tubes**,

removable stainless steel combustion chamber, deflectors, and supports.

7 years N/A

Handle assembly, glass retainers and air control mechanism. 5 years 3 years

Removable carbon steel combustion chamber components. 5 years N/A

Standard and optional blower, heat sensors, switches, rheostat, wiring, and

electronics. 2 years 1 year

Paint (peeling**), gaskets, insulation, ceramic fiber blankets, firebricks, and

other options. 1 year N/A

All parts replaced under the warranty. 90 days N/A

*Subject to limitations above. **Picture required.

Labour cost and repair work to the account of the manufacturer are based on a predetermined rate schedule and must not exceed the

wholesale price of the replacement part.

Shall your unit or a components be defective, contact immediately your OSBURN dealer. To accelerate processing of your warranty

claim, make sure to have on hand the following information when calling:

• Your name, address and telephone number;

• Bill of sale and dealer’s name;

• Installation configuration;

• Serial number and model name as indicated on the

nameplate fixed to the back of your unit;

• Nature of the defect and any relevant information.

Before shipping your unit or defective component to our plant, you must obtain an Authorization Number from your OSBURN

dealer. Any merchandise shipped to our plant without authorization will be refused automatically and returned to sender.

installation and operation manual 2200€¦ · 5.2 chimney and chimney connector maintenance ... 26...

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