indoor gardening for every week in the year

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A week-by-week indoor gardening guide

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  • 1. Indoor Gardening for Every Week in the YearAdapted and brought to you by http://www.oldfashionedhomemaking.com
  • 2. SHOWING THE MOST SUCCESSFUL TREATMENT FOR ALL PLANTS CULTIVATED IN THE GREENHOUSE, CONSERVATORY, STOVE, PIT, ORCHID, AND FORCING-HOUSE. BY WILLIAM KEANE. THIRD EDITION. LONDON:JOURNAL OF HORTICULTURE AND COTTAGE GARDENER OFFICE, 171, FLEET STREET. 1865.
  • 3. IN-DOOR GARDENING FOR THE MANY.JANUARY.FIRST WEEK.GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.Cinerarias.The plants intended for large specimens must receive their final shift, and beallowed sufficient space to expand their foliage without interfering with or injuring each other.The side-shoots to be tied out.Epacrises.As some of them will be preparing to burst into flower, a little arrangement may benecessary in tying them out to display their spikes of bloom more advantageously.Fuchsias.If wanted early, the plants that were first put to rest should be selected, and be freshpotted, cutting back the roots, beginning with a small-sized pot; to be shifted into larger when theroots have extended to the outside of the ball. Place them in a nice moist temperature of 50 byday and 40 by night.Heaths.To be looked over, and the dead and decaying leaves removed. The most forward inbudsuch as the Vestitas, Vernix, Vasciflora, Aristata, Beaumontia, and many others, to be tiedout, and arranged for the season.Pelargoniums.When large specimens are wanted, tie out the branches at equal distances, anddown as near to the rim of the pot as possible. Air to be given at all favourable opportunities.Water to be given but sparingly, and not overhead.STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.Be careful that the night temperature is not raised too high: if kept at 50 in severe weather no illconsequences will result. The atmosphere to be kept rather moist, especially if the weather isbright; and all plants indicating an appearance of starting into bloom to be removed to thewarmest part of the house.Clerodendrons.To be shaken out of their pots; their roots reduced and repotted into small potsin a light sandy loamy compost. Sow seeds, and also of any hard-wooded stove plants.Water to be given very cautiously to the Orchids, merely sufficient to prevent the plants fromshrivelling; and to do this effectually it is necessary to look over them every day. The air of thehouse to be kept moist by sprinkling the pathways, floors, tables, &c., daily. If any plant is foundnot to have ripened off its bulbs it should be placed in the warmest part of the house, and theripening process encouraged. The Brassias, Cyanoches, Clogynes, Miltonias, and other suchplants, when they are beginning to grow, to be repotted. The compost to consist of turfy peat
  • 4. mixed with a portion of charcoal or broken potsherds, and the pots to be at least half full of veryopen drainage.FORCING-HOUSES.Cherries.Very gentle excitement to be given by fire or artificial heat, with kindly humidity,and abundance of air.Figs.Although they will bear a higher degree of temperature without injury than eitherCherries or Peaches, it is advisable to begin cautiously, as it frequently happens that the morehaste with fire the less speed with fruit, and that favourable opportunities of sun and light mustbe embraced for making sure progress with them.Peaches.Where the trees are coming into bloom it is necessary to be cautious in the applicationof humidity, and when they have expanded their flowers to withhold it altogether for a time. Fireor other artificial heat to be applied moderatelythat is, from 45 by night to 55 by day,particularly when dark and gloomy weather prevails. The houses now commencing to force to bekept moderately moist, and in a sweet healthy state, syringing the trees pretty freely once ortwice a-day with tepid water. Shut up early on sunny days, and sprinkle the paths, floors, flues,or pipes frequently.Vines.When they have all broken, the superfluous buds must be rubbed off, and the youngshoots stopped as soon as they are long enough to admit the points of the shoots at one budabove the bunch being broken out. In vineries now commencing to force, adopt the practice ofproducing, where it can be applied, a kindly humidity by means of dung and leaves, or other suchfermenting materials. If they are to be broken principally by fire heat, either by flues or hot-waterpipes, copious syringings must be resorted to with tepid water once or twice a-day. Fire heat tobe applied principally by day, with air at the same time, and very moderately at night.SECOND WEEK.GREENHOUSE AND CONSERVATORY.The plants will now require particular attention and a nice discrimination in the application ofwater: it may be comprehended by all persons interested in gardening operations, that when thesoil on the surface of the pot looks damp it will not require water until it gets thoroughly dry atthis season, and then it is to be given before the plant droops or flags for want of it. But when theplant droops and the soil on the surface appears damp, the cause is then to be discovered byturning the ball out of the pot, when it will be seen whether the whole or only a portion of thesoil is wet; as it sometimes happens, when fresh potted with light soil, it shrinks from the sides ofthe pot when dry, and when water is given it runs down and moistens the outside, withoutpenetrating the ball. The evil is corrected by holding it for a short space of time in a tub of waterof the same temperature as the house. If the soil of any plant is sodden with water it should be
  • 5. turned out of the pot, and the drainage examined, and no water to be given until it becomesthoroughly dry.Verbenas.They require to be kept tolerably dry, as they are more susceptible of injury fromdamp than from cold; a top shelf near the glass in the greenhouse is a very suitable place forthem. If mildew appears, to be dusted with flowers of sulphur.STOVE AND ORCHID-HOUSE.Although all plants now at rest should be kept comparatively dry, they will require to be lookedover daily to see that they do not suffer for want of water. The temperature not to exceed 60 byfire heat, and a fall of 10 may be allowed at night in very cold weather. Many of the stoveplantssuch as Aphelandras, Justicias, Poinsettias, &c.may now be cut down altogether, andkept dry for a few weeks, which will cause them to make an early growth, and to come intoflower a few weeks sooner next winter.Gesneras.Select a few roots of them and a few of the Gloxinias to start into growth to producea succession of flowers.FORCING-HOUSES.Asparagus.If the soil in the bed is dry, give it a liberal supply of water, so that it may descendto the roots, as unproductiveness is sometimes caused by the soil at the roots being very drywhen the top is kept moist by gentle waterings.Beans (Dwarf Kidney).Sow every three weeks, if a constant supply is wanted. Keep the earlycrops well supplied with water, and give them frequent sprinklings overhead, to prevent theattacks of red spider.Mushrooms.An abundance of water to be thrown about the floors. If the beds are dry, to besyringed with lukewarm water, applying it like dew at intervals for a few hours. Temperaturefrom 50 to 60, with air occasionally in favourable weather.Peaches.Continue previous directions. The trees in bloom to be artificially impregnated, andthe foreright shoots to be rubbed off a few at a time before they become too large. Currents of airto be carefully avoided, especially when the trees are in bloom, as they have been sometimesobserved to sustain injury from the two end doors being left open for a short time. Air to begiven at the top daily in favourable weather.Pines.As the days lengthen and the light increases the plants that are swelling their fruit shouldbe supplied with a gradual increase of heat (from 65 at night to 75 or 80 in the middle of theday in clear weather), water, and atmospheric moisture; while others that are in bloom andstarting into fruit require more air or more moderate temperature, care in watering and lessatmospheric humidity. Some of the strongest succession plants that are grown in pots to receivetheir final shift, that they may make their growth for fruiting in May or June. In old-fashioned
  • 6. pits or houses, where the flues run near the tan-bed, the plants should be closely examined, asthey are apt to be injured by fire heat in such a situation.Strawberries.A few dozens more pots may be placed in a frame where there is a gentle heatand an atmosphere more congenial to their healthy growth than in a house.Vines.When they have made shoots two or three inches long, the night temperature to rangefrom 60 to 65, with an increase of from 5 to 10 during the day.PITS AND FRAMES.Keep the plants in these structures as hardy as possible by fully exposing them in mild weather,but do not give any more water than is absolutely necessary. Remove all decayed and decayingleaves, and keep the atmosphere in as healthy a state as possible.Make small hotbeds for sowing Cucumbers and Melons, Radishes and Early Horn Carrots,Cauliflower and Walcheren Broccoli, Lettuce, and

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