1225

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

aAbbakka, Rana 889Abhuj Maria people 681accommodation 1178-81, see

also individual locationschildren, travel with 48disabilities, travellers

with 1190language 1212, 1215tipping 1185train travel 34, 35

activities, see individual activities

Adalaj Vav 697Adi people 573Adivasi people 598, 617, 680,

681, 682-3, 1128environmental issues 1171

Adyar Library 1013-14Agartala 585-6, 585Agatti Island 1002Agonda 848-9Agra 351-68, 355, 362

accommodation 360-4activities 351-60drinking 365food 364-5medical services 366shopping 365-6sights 351-60tourist information 366tours 360travel to/from 367-8travel within 368

Agrasen ki Baoli 68Ahmedabad 687-97, 688-9

accommodation 692-4festivals 691food 694-5internet access 696medical services 696shopping 695

sights 688-91tourist information 696tours 691-2travel to/from 696-7travel within 697

Aihole 907air pollution 1172, 1208air travel

airlines 1192, 1195-6airports 1192climate change 1193to/from Delhi 99to/from Mumbai 769

Aishmugam 275Aizawl 583-4Ajanta 788-90, 789, 17Ajmer 138-41, 139Akbar 1114Alappuzha 961-6, 962Alchi 258Alexander the Great 1108,

1109Allahabad 382-7, 384Alleppey 961-6, 962Almora 444-6Along 574-5altitude sickness 1209Alwar 129-32Amar Mahal 277Amaravathi 938Amarnath 266Amber 124-5Amdavad, see Ahmedabadamoebic dysentery 1208Amritsar 212-20, 213Amte, Murlidhar Devidas

‘Baba’ 794Anand Bhavan 383-5Anandpur Sahib 221-2Ananthagiri 936Andaman Islands 54,

1084-102, 1085accommodation 1084,

1086, 1087climate 1084, 1086diving 1091

geography 1171highlights 1085permits 1087planning information

1084, 1086safe travel 1086travel seasons 1084

Andamanese people 1094Andhra Pradesh 54, 912-40,

914accommodation 913climate 912festivals 913food 912, 913highlights 914internet resources 913planning information

912-13travel seasons 912

Anegundi 902-3, 898Ang 257-8Animal Rescue Centre 847animals 1165-68, see also

individual speciesAnjuna 834-7, 835antiques 1154, 1184ants 680Apatani people 573, 574Apsara Vihar 657Araku Valley 936Arambol 841-2archaeological sites

Andhra Pradesh 918Fatehpur Sikri 368-72,

370-1Hampi Bazaar 897Lothal 698Mehrauli Archaeological

Park 103Nagarjunakonda 931

architecture 1112, 1117, 1160-4

Golden Temple 212-15, 886, 13, 1162-3

gompas 1162mosques 1163, 1164temples 1160-3, 638-9

Meenakshi Amman Temple 1058-60, 1160-1

area codes 19, 1190Arjuna’s Penance 1025-6art galleries, see museums &

galleriesarts 22-3, see also individual

stylesArunachal Pradesh 572-8Ashoka, Emperor 1109Ashokan Edicts 717ashrams 41

Kausani 447Kerala 950Maharasthra 794Rishikesh 424Sabarmati Ashram 688Tamil Nadu 1035, 1037Vashisht 316

Asiatic lions 714ass, Indian wild 730Assam 561-72Astachal 657Asvem 840ATMs 1185Attari-Wagah (Pakistan)

border ceremony 219Auli 436Aurangabad 780-4, 782Auroville 1043-5autorickshaws 1199Avantipura 275Avis Island 1100Awantipora 275Ayodhya 381-2ayurveda 38-9, 957

Bengaluru 861Delhi 77Goa 830Gondal 718Jaipur 113Jamnagar 722Kerala 963, 970, 997Khajuraho 641Kochi 981Kollam 959

Index

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

1226

InDeX A

- B

ayurveda continuedMadikeri 883Mamallapuram 1027Mysore 874Orchha 629Puducherry 1039-40Puri 607Pushkar 143Trivandrum 945Udaipur 161Varanasi 393

BBabur 1113-14Badaga people 1076Badami 904-6Badrinath 432-6Baga 830-4, 832Bageshwar 448-9Baghirathi Parvat 431Bahmani sultanate 1113Bai, Lakshmi 1118Baijnath 333baksheesh 1185-6Bala Qila 129Balasore 617Banbassa 449Bangalore, see BengaluruBangladesh border

crossings 492, 586, 1193, 1194

banyan treesJyotisar 211Kolkata Botanical

Gardens 462Undying Banyan Tree 383

baobab tree 917Bara Imambara 375-6Bara Shigri 343Barkul 613Baroda, see VadodaraBasgo 256Bastar people 681bathrooms 1190Bavikonda 935bazaars, see markets &

bazaarsB&Bs 1180beaches 22, 890-1

Agonda 848Alleppey Beach 963Anjuna 834Arambol 841Asvem 840

Baga 830Benaulim 846Calangute 830Candolim 827Cavelossim 848Chapora 837Cherai Beach 990-1Cola Beach 848Colva 846Diu 708Goa Gokarna 894-5Havelock Island 1093-4Kappil Beach 958Konkan Coast 795Marina Beach 891, 1010,

891Middle Andaman 891,

891Mobor 848Morjim 840Mumbai 740Neil Island 1098Palolem 14, 891Papanasham beach 891,

954, 890Rushikonda 933Sinquerim 827Vagator 837Varca 848Varkala 891, 954, 890

bears 1168, see also Himalayan bears, sloth bears

Bhimbetka 650Shankaracharya Hill 269

Bekal 1001Belur 885Belur Math 462Benares Hindu University

392Benaulim 846-8Bengal tigers, see Royal

Bengal tigersBengaluru 856-68, 858-9

accommodation 861-3activities 861drinking 864-5entertainment 865food 863-4internet access 866medical services 866shopping 865-6sights 857-61tourist information 866tours 861travel to/from 867travel within 867-8

Berhampore 490

berries 807BethEl Synagogue 459Bhagsu 330-1Bhalka Tirth 711Bhandardara 779-80bhang lassi 1189Bhangarh 133Bharat Bhavan 646Bharatpur 126-8, 249, 127Bharmour 324, 339Bhatra people 681Bhavnagar 703-5, 704Bhedaghat 673-4Bheemunipatnam 935Bhima’s Rock 433Bhimbetka 650Bhimlat Waterfall 150Bhojpur 649-50Bhongir 933Bhopal 644-9, 646Bhramasarovar 211Bhubaneswar 595-603,

596-7Bhuj 724-8, 725Bhujodi 728Bhuntar 299-300Bhurwa people 681Bhutan border crossings

492, 512, 544, 1193, 1194

Bibi-qa-Maqbara 780-1Bicentenary Gate 462bicycle travel, see cyclingBidar 910-11Bihar 51, 517-31, 516

accommodation 514, 515climate 514festivals 515food 514, 515highlights 516internet resources 515planning information

514-15safe travel 517travel seasons 514

Bijapur 907-10, 908Bikaner 194-9, 196Biligiri Ranganna Hills 882Billing 333Bir 333birds 1168birdwatching

Anegundi 902Bandipur National Park

880Bhagwan Mahaveer

Sanctuary 825Bhitarkanika Wildlife

Sanctuary 618

Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary 446

Chail 293Chilika Lake 612Corbett Tiger Reserve 438Cotigao Wildlife

Sanctuary 849Dandeli 905Havelock Island 1093Himalayan Bird Park 285Kalimpong 510Kanha National Park

674, 675Karanji Lake Nature

Park 874Keoladeo Ghana

National Park 129Khijadiya Bird

Sanctuary 723Kumarakom Bird

Sanctuary 969Mamallapuram 1029Manali 307Maredumilli 936Nagarhole National

Park 881Nalsarovar Bird

Sanctuary 698Ramganga Reservoir 438Sanjay Gandhi National

Park 749Sasan Gir Wildlife

Sanctuary 713Sultanpur Bird

Sanctuary 212Sunderbans Tiger

Reserve 486Thattekkad Bird

Sanctuary 990Vedanthangal Bird

Sanctuary 1031West Bengal 486Wild Ass Sanctuary 730

Birla Planetarium 455Bishnupur 487-8Bison Lodge 655Bison-Horn Maria people

681Black Hat sect 545black market 1185block printing 113Blue City, see JodhpurBlue Mountain 584boat travel 1195boat trips 22, see

also houseboatsAssam 563Bhopal 646Diu 709Goa 819, 820, 828, 830,

849

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1227In

DeX B-C

Hooghly River 488Kerala backwaters 966-7,

981, 1000, 23Kollam 959Marble Rocks 673Mumbai 751Nagarhole National

Park 881Nainital 441Northeast States 563Odisha 612, 613Ooty 1078-9Periyar Wildlife

Sanctuary 970, 971Ramtek 793Satapada 612Udaipur 157Varanasi 393West Bengal 486, 488

Bodhgaya 524-8, 525Bodhi Tree 527, 1108, 1108Bojjannakonda 935Bollywood 764, 1157, 1158Bombay, see MumbaiBombay Panjrapole 743Bomdila 576Bonda people 598books, see also literature

architecture 1161culture 1125dance 1155festivals 451film 1157food 1137, 1138, 1140,

1142, 1143health 1206history 1107, 1109, 1111,

1114, 1123music 1156painting 1157religion 1131, 1132, 1133,

1135Sikhism 1134textiles 1152

border crossings 1192-5Bangladesh 492, 586,

1193, 1194Bhutan 492, 512, 544Nepal 402, 407, 449,

492, 505, 512, 523, 544, 1193, 1195

Pakistan 182, 219, 220, 1193-4

Tibet 544Border Roads

Organisation 1198bouldering 899Brahma 1130Brahman 1130brassware 1150

bronze figures 1148Buddha 1108

Andhra Pradesh 918statues 411, 526, 549,

919, 938Buddhism 1109, 1110, 1132,

1135, see also Dalai Lama

Andhra Pradesh 918Bodhi Tree 527, 1108,

1108Buddhist temples, see also

gompas, monasteries, stupas

Ellora 785-7, 786, 787, 639

Himalayan Nyingmapa Buddhist Temple 307

Japanese Peace Pagoda 497-8

Mahabodhi Temple 524, 638

Mahaparinirvana Temple 405

Mathakuar Temple 406Mulgandha Kuti Vihar

403Nagarjunakonda 931Tsuglagkhang Complex

320Wat Thai Complex 405-6

budgeting 19, see also costsbuffalo racing 894Bukka I 1113Bundi 149-52, 150Bundla Gorge 333bungalows 1180bus travel 1197-8business hours 1186Bylakuppe 886

cCalangute 830-4, 831Calcutta, see KolkataCalicut, see Kozhikodecamel fair, Pushkar 144camel safaris

Bikaner 195Hunder 252Jaisalmer 188-9Osian 182Pushkar 143

camping 1180Candolim 827-30Cannanore, see Kannurcanoeing, see kayaking,

raftingcanyoning 811, 849, 850Cape Comorin, see

Kanyakumari

Capital Complex 203car travel 1198, see

also jeep safaris, shared jeeps

carbon-monoxide poisoning 1208

carpets 1148-9cash 1185caste system 1125castles, see fortscathedrals, see churches &

cathedralsCauvery River 1046Cavelossim 848caves

Ajanta 788-90, 789, 17Amarnath 266Anegundi 902Aurangabad Caves 781Badami 905-6Baratang 1099-100Bhaja Caves 799Bhimbetka 650Borra Caves 936Buddhist caves 716Edakal Caves 996Elephanta Island 745-8Ellora cave temples 785-7,

787, 639Forty One Caves 1100Jata Shankar 655Kanheri Caves 749Karla Cave 799Khandagiri Caves 598Lenyadri 806Lohani Caves 669Mawsmai Cave 591Padmasambhava Cave

299Pandav Caves 655Pataleshvara Cave

Temple 801-2Sankaram 935Tattapani 292Udaigiri Caves 654-5Udayagiri Caves 598Undavalli Cave Temples

937cell phones 18, 1188-9cemeteries

Dutch Cemetery 979Jewish burial grounds

991Nicholson Cemetery 67-8South Park Street

Cemetery 455War Cemetery 579

Chahala salt lick 602chai 1144Chail 293

Chaini 297Chalukyas 1111Chamba 336-8, 337Chamba Valley 324, 333-9Champaner 702-3Champhai 584Chandarnagar 486Chandigarh 203-10, 204-5

accommodation 205-7activities 203-5drinking 208-9entertainment 209food 207-8internet access 209medical services 209shopping 209sights 203-5tourist information

209-10tours 205travel to/from 210travel within 210

Chandipur 617-18Chandni Chowk 66-7Chandor 845Chandratal 343Chandrisilla Peak 437Chapora 837-40Char Dham, the 431-3charas (marijuana)

307charity organisations

526Charminar 916-17Charnock, Job 457cheesecake, Puri 608cheetahs 1167Chemrey 247-8Chennai 1007-23,

1008-9, 1012accommodation 1014-16courses 1014drinking 1018entertainment 1019festivals 1014food 1016-18internet access 1020medical services 1020safe travel 1007-10shopping 1019-20sights 1010-14tourist information 1020tours 1014travel to/from 1020-2,

1023, 1024travel within 1022-3

Chennamangalam 991Cherrapunjee 590-1Chettinadu 1056-8

1228

InDeX C

-D

Chhatrapati Shivaji International Airport 769

Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya 737

Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (Victoria Terminus) 737, 15

Chhattisgarh 679-83Chhoti Dargah 522Chidambaram 1045-6children, travel with 46-8

Mumbai 737Chiling 256Chilla 423Chini-ka-Rauza 360Chiriya Tapu 1093Chitkul 295Chitrakut 387-8Chittorgarh 153-7, 154Chola reign 1110, 1111Cholamandal Artists’

Village 1023Chota Imambara 376-7Choukhandi 911Chowara 953-4Christianity 1110churches & cathedrals

Armenian Church of Nazareth 459

Basilica of Bom Jesus 824

Basilica of Our Lady of Health 1046

Christ Church 285Church of Our Lady

of the Immaculate Conception 817

Church of Our Lady of the Mount 825

Church of St Cajetan 825Church of St Francis of

Assisi 708, 825Church of St John in the

Wilderness 321Eglise du Sacre Coeur

487Holy Rosary Cathedral

459Lourdes Church 1053Our Lady of Mercy

Church 846San Thome Cathedral

1013Sé Cathedral 824St John’s Church 457

St Paul’s Cathedral 454St Stephen’s Church

1077St Teresa’s Church

510, 760St Thomas’ Cathedral

739-40cinema, see filmclimate 18, 24-8, see

also individual locationsclimate change 1172, 1193clothing 1126clouded leopards

Himalayan zoological Park 539

Namdapha National Park 572

Neora Valley National Park 511

Padmaja Naidu Himalayan zoological Park 498

Cochin, see Kochicoffee plantations

Ananthagiri 936Kodagu (Coorg) region

884Maredumilli 936

Coimbatore 1072-4, 1073Colonel Bailey’s Dungeon

880Colva 846-8community cooperatives

1152consulates 1181-2cooking courses 1143

Delhi 78Goa 819Kanchipuram 1032Kerala 970Kolkata 465McLeod Ganj 325Nawalgarh 134Neil Island 1098Puducherry 1039Pushkar 143Rishikesh 425Udaipur 161

Coonoor 1074-5cooperatives 1152Coorg region, see Kodago

regioncopperware 1150Coronation Durbar Site 68Coronation Throne 554costs 19

accommodation 1178car travel 1198food 1182train travel 1203

courses, see also ashrams, ayurveda, meditation courses, yoga courses

block printing 113cooking 78, 134, 143,

161, 325, 425, 465, 819, 970, 1032, 1039, 1098, 1143

language 79, 325, 393-5, 417, 500, 749, 1014, 1183-4

martial arts 945massage 425music 143, 161, 395, 451,

749, 875painting 162philosophy 325puppetry 994reiki 425

cranes 612crater, meteorite 791credit cards 1185cricket 1128crocodiles 604, 618, 644,

713, 949, 976cruises, see boat trips,

houseboatsculture 1104-6, 1124-9

etiquette 1106, 1187food 1142-3funerary rituals 1136internet resources 1127

currency 18curries 1140Curzon Trail 434-5customs regulations 1181cycle-rickshaws 1199cycling 1196-7, see also

mountain bikingBengaluru 861Bidar 22Delhi 80-1Kochi 981Leh 233Mamallapuram 1028Pachmarchi 657

Ddabba-wallahs 757DakshinaChitra 1023Dakshineswar 462Dalai Lama 317, 330Dalhousie 333-5, 334Dalits 1125Daman 702Damsang Dzong 511dance 1155Dandeli 905Dandi 702

dangers, see safe travelDaporijo 574Darbargadh 724Darcha 264Darcha Bridge 249Dargah of Khwaja

Muin-ud-din Chishti 138Darjeeling 494-506, 496, 12

accommodation 500-2activities 499-500courses 500drinking 503-4food 502-3internet access 504medical services 504shopping 504sights 495-9tourist information 505tours 500travel to/from 505-6travel within 506

Darjeeling Himalayan Railway 501

Daulatabad 784-5Deeg 130deforestation 1172Dehra Dun 411-15, 412deities, see individual

religionsDelhi 49, 56-103, 58-9,

64-5, 86, 14accommodation 56,

57, 81-7activities 76-7airport area 87climate 56Connaught Place 68, 84,

89-90, 95-6, 70-1courses 78-80drinking 93-4entertainment 94-5festivals 57food 56, 87-92highlights 58-9internet access 98internet resources 57itineraries 60medical services 98metro map 86New Delhi 68-73, 85,

90-2, 96-7, 74-5Old Delhi 61-8, 81-2,

87-8, 95Paharganj 82-4, 88-9, 83planning information 56-7shopping 95-103sights 60-76South Delhi 73-5, 85-7,

92, 97-8, 78-9Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1229In

DeX D-F

tourist information 99tours 80-1travel seasons 56travel to/from 99-101travel within 101-2volunteering 78West Delhi 85, 88-9

dengue fever 1207desserts 1140Devi 1131Dha-Hanu 259Dhai-din-ka-Jhonpra 139dhal 1138Dhankar 345-6Dhanushkodi 1063Dharamkot 330-1Dharamsala 318-20, 319Dharavi 740Dharmasthala 892Dhauli 605Dhyana Buddha 938diarrhoea 1208Dibrugarh 571digital photography 1186Diglipur 1100-1Dimapur 578diphtheria 1205Dirang 576-7disabilities, travellers with

1190-1Diskit 252Diu 706-11, 707diving & snorkelling

Andaman Islands 1095Avis Island 1100Chiriya Tapu 1093Goa 815, 830Havelock Island 1095health 1208Lakshadweep 1002Mahatma Gandhi Marine

National Park 1093Neil Island 1098Puducherry 1039Ross Island 1101Smith Island 1101Wandoor 1093

dolphins 47, 612, 1165, 1167

Donyi-Polo 573Dorla people 681dosas 1143dowries 1124Dravidian politics 1006drinks 1143-5

alcohol permits 694chai 1144drinking water 1172, 1209

dry states 578lassi 191, 400, 1189

driving licences 1200drugs 307, 815, 1184

scams 1174Durga Puja 461Dussehra 28Dwarka 723Dzongri 556, 556

eeconomy 1105electricity 1181Elephanta Island 745-8elephant festivals 7, 105,

993, 7elephant rides & safaris

Amber 125Goa 826Havelock Island 1094Jalkhapara Wildlife

Sanctuary 493Kaziranga National

Park 568Kochi 981Mudumalai Tiger Reserve

1082Periyar Wildlife Sanctuary

969-70elephants 1165, see also

elephant festivals, elephant rides & safaris

Bandipur National Park 880

Biligiri Ranganna Temple Wildlife Sanctuary 882

Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary 976

Dandeli 905Jaldhapara Wildlife

Sanctuary 493Nagarhole National

Park 881Neyyar Wildlife

Sanctuary 949-50Parambikulam Wildlife

Sanctuary 976Rajaji National Park 423

Elephant Stables 897Ellora 785-810, 787, 639Eluru 938embassies 1181-2emergencies 19

Goa 814language 1214, 1216

employment 1105environmental issues 1171-2

Adivasi people 1171animal conservation

132, 1166

climate change 1193conservation 45Himachal Pradesh 317houseboat motors 967Jaisalmer Fort 186Leh 238olive ridley marine

turtles 614pollution 829Project Tiger 1166Spiti 343

essential oils 1154etiquette

food 1140photography 1175, 1187religion 1135trekking 37

events 24-8, see also festivals & events

Everest House 416exchange rates 19

FFaridkot 221Fatehpur 137-8Fatehpur Sikri 368-72, 370-1Fernandes House 845Feroz Shah Kotla 67ferry travel, see boat travel,

boat trips, houseboatsfestivals & events 24-8, see

also individual locationsAdivasi Mela 593Ahilyabai Holkar’s

Birthday 621Ambubachi Mela 559Andhra Pradesh 913Armanath Yatra 225Baisakhi 201Beating of the Retreat

57Bengali New Year 483Bhavnath Mela 685Bihar 515Brahmotsavam 913buffalo racing 894Bumchu 535Carnival 812Chennai Festival of Music

& Dance 1004Chhath Festival 515Chithirai Festival 1004Classical Dance Festival

854Delhi International Arts

Festival 57Desert Festival 105Dharamsal International

Film Festival 325

Diwali 28, 57Dosmoche 225Dover Lane Music

Conference 451Durga Puja 451, 461Dussehra 28, 57, 621,

691, 774, 854, 875Dussehra (Himachal

Pradesh) 281Dussehra (West Bengal)

483Dussehra Mela 105Elephant Festival (Jaipur)

7, 105Elephant Race 993Elephanta Festival

(Mumbai) 733Ellora Ajanta Aurangabad

Festival 774Ernakulathappan

Utsavam 942Fama de Menino Jesus

812Feast of Our Lady of

the Immaculate Conception 812

Feast of St Francis Xavier 812

Feast of the Three Kings 812

Festival of Dance 621film festivals 325, 451,

733, 762, 764, 820Free Spirit Festival 325Ganesh Chaturthi 27,

733, 774, 854Ganga Sagar Mela 483Gangaur 105Gita Jayanti 201Harballabh Sangeet

Sammelan 201Haryana 201Holi 350Holla Mohalla 201Hornbill Festival 559, 580Huthri 854Independence Day 57International Film

Festival of India 820International Himalayan

Festival 281International Yoga

Festival 409, 1004Jagaddhatri Puja 483Jaipur Literature Festival

1159Janmastami 350Kala Ghoda Festival

733Kalidas Festival 774Kambla 894

1230

InDeX F-G

festivals continuedKarthikai Deepam

Festival 1004, 1036Kartik Purnima 685Kila Raipur Sports

Festival 201Kolkata Boi Mela 451Kolkata Film Festival 451Kollam Pooram 942Konark Festival 593Kumbh Mela 27, 383, 1126Kashish Mumbai

International Queer Film Festival 762

Ladakh Festival 225Ladarcha Fair 281Lakshadeepotsava 854Losar 225, 281, 535, 559Losoong 535Madhya Pradesh 621Magh Mela 350, 409, 621Mahakali Festival 685Maharashtra 774Mamallapuram Dance

Festival 1004Marwar Festival 105Mastakabhisheka 887Matho Nagrang 225Mewar Festival 105Modhera Dance Festival

685Muharram 913Mumbai Film Festival 733Mumbai Sanskruti 733Naag Panchami 774Nanda Devi Fair 409Nariyal Poornima 733Natyanjali Dance Festival

1004Navratri 27-8, 621,

685, 691Nehru Trophy Snake Boat

Race 942Onam 942Pang Lhabsol 535Pataliputra Mahotsava

515Phulech Festival 281Pinjore Heritage Festival

201Pongal 1004, 1044Poush Mela 483Puri Beach Festival 593Purnima 350Pushkar Camel Fair

105, 144

Qutb Festival 57Rajgir Mahotsava 515Ram Lila 350Ras Mahotsav 559Rath Yatra 451, 483, 593Republic Day 57Rongali Bihu 559Sabado Gordo 25, 812Saga Dawa 535Sankranti 913Sarawati Puja 451Sawai Gandharva San-

geet Mahotsav 774Shigmotsav (Shigmo) of

Holi 812Shivaratri Mela 409, 621Sikkim Paragliding

Festival 537Sonepur Mela 515, 522Surajkund Crafts Mela

201Tansen Music Festival

621Teej 105Teppam (Float) Festival

1004Thirunakkara Utsavam

942Thrissur Pooram 942Tibet Film Festival 325Tibetan New Year 854Udupi Paryaya 854Uttarayan 685Vairamudi Festival 854Vijaya Utsav 854Visakha Utsav 913

film 1104, 1120, 1157-8Bollywood 764, 1157, 1158festivals 325, 451, 733,

762, 764, 820Ramoji Film City 922

Five Rathas 1025flamingos 612flea markets, see markets

& bazaarsFlower Exhibition Centre

538flower nurseries 510flying fox, see zip liningfood 1137-47

berries 807books 1137, 1138, 1140,

1142, 1143children, travel with 48costs 1182curries 1140dabba-wallahs 757desserts 1140dhal 1138dosas 1143

etiquette 1140kati rolls 470kebabs 379language 1145-7, 1212-13,

1215meat 578paan 1138Puri cheesecake 608safety 1174, 1208street food 1141taxes 1179tipping 1185

football 1129forts 20

Agra Fort 358-60Akbar’s Fort 383Amber Fort 124Bala Qila 129Bangalore Fort 860-1Bhongir 933Bijapur 908-9Chandragiri Fort 940Chittorgarh Fort 154-5Daulatabad 784-5Diu Fort 708Fort Aguada 828Fort St George 1010Golconda Fort 917Gondla 341Gwalior Fort 623-6Islamnagar 649Jaigarh 125Jaisalmer Fort 186-7, 15Kangra Fort 331-2Kumbhalgarh 168Lohagarh 126Madikeri Fort 882Mehrangarh 174-5Naggar Castle 305Nahargarh 113Pratapgad Fort 808Purana Qila 71-2Raigad Fort 808Red Fort 61-3, 14, 62-3Shivneri 806Sinhagad 806Taragarh 150Tsemo Fort 230Tughlaqabad 103Uparkot Fort 715-16Warangal 932

fossilised tree trunk 1077French rule 1116

GGada Shah 668galleries, see museums &

galleries

Galo people 573Gama, Vasco da 1114Gandhi, Indira 1122, 1123Gandhi, Mahatma 723,

1119, 1119-20, 1121, 1153, 1120

Gandhinagar 697-8Ganesh 1131Gangaikondacholapuram

1052Ganges River 383, 388,

389, 393, 419, 1170-1Gangotri 431-2Gangotri Glacier 431Gangtok 538-44, 540Ganj 632Ganpatipule 795-6gardens, see parks &

gardensGaro Hills 587Gata Loops 249Gaumukh Glacier 431Gaur 489Gautama, Siddhartha 1108,

see also Buddhagay travellers 762, 1182Gaya 523-4geese 612gem scams 1174-5gem testing laboratory 121Gemur 249geography 1170-1geology 1170-1Geyzing 550-1Ghadwa people 681Gharial crocodiles 604ghats

Haridwar 419Mahalaxmi Dhobi Ghat

743Mathura 373Pushkar 142Raj Ghat 67Ram Ghat 659Ramkund 776-7Shanagar Burning Ghat

464Varanasi 389-91Vijayawada 936

giardiasis 1208gibbons 587Gingee 1036Girnar Hill 715Giu 347glaciers

Bara Shigri 343Gangotri Glacier 431Gaumukh Glacier 431,

431-2Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1231In

DeX G-H

Jamdar Glacier 434Milam Glacier 435Pindari Glacier 435

Global Pagoda 744-72Goa 53, 811-52, 813

accommodation 812, 815-16

activities 814-15climate 811, 814drinking 812emergencies 814festivals 812food 811, 812highlights 813internet resources 812parties 840, 851planning information

811-12safe travel 815travel seasons 811volunteering 847

Goecha La 556Gokarna 894-6Golden Temple 212-15, 886,

13, 1162-3golf

Delhi 77Gulmarg 274Kolkata 465Naldehra 292

Golghar 518-19Golgumbaz 907-8gompas 1134, 1162

Bardan Gompa 264Bhutia Busty Gompa 497Chowkhang Gompa 231Drikung Kagyu Gompa

298Druk Sangak Choling

Gompa 499Dubdi Gompa 554Durpin Gompa 509Enchey Gompa 538-9Guru Ghantal Gompa 341Gyuto Tantric Gompa 331Karsha Gompa 264Kathok Wodsallin Gompa

554Khardong Gompa 342Labrang Gompa 546Mane Choekhorling

Gompa 549Ngadhak Changchub

Choling Gompa 554Old Rumtek Gompa 544Panden Ngari Gompa

307Pemayangtse 552-3Phodong Gompa 546

Phuktal Gompa 264Rumtek Gompa 544Sakya Guru Gompa 499Samten Choling Gompa

499Sankar Gompa 231Shargol Gompa 261Shashur Gompa 342Spituk Gompa 233Tabo Gompa 346Tawang Gompa 577Tayul Gompa 342Tharpa Choling Gompa

509Thekchhok Gompa 247-8Thiksey Gompa 247Thongsa Gompa 509Tsechokling Gompa 321Tso-Pema Ogyen Heruka

Nyingmapa Gompa 298

Yiga Choling Gompa 499Yungdrung Gompa 260

Gondal 718-19Gondla 341Gopalpur-on-Sea 613-15Gorai Island 744-72Gorakhpur 404Government Silk Weaving

Factory 269Gramphu 341Great Buddha Statue 526green turtles 1101grey-legged geese 612guesthouses 1180Gujarat 52, 684-731, 686

accommodation 685climate 684festivals 685food 684, 685highlights 686internet resources 685planning information

684-5travel seasons 684

Gulmarg 274, 275Gumbaz 879Guntupalli 939Gupta empire 1110, 1111gurdwaras, see Sikh

templesGuru Shikhar 174Guwahati 561-6, 562Gwalior 623-8, 624

HHajo 566Halba people 681Halebid 885-6

Hampi 10, 896-902, 898, 900, 10

Hampi Bazaar 896, 899-902, 900

Hamta Pass 314handicrafts 22-3, 1148-54Hanuman 1131Har Ki Dun Protection &

Mountaineering Association 434

Hare Krishnas 374, 489Haridwar 419-22, 420Har-ki-Dun Valley 434Harmal, see ArambolHaryana 49, 200-12, 202

accommodation 200, 201climate 200festivals 201food 200, 201highlights 202internet resources 201planning information

200-1travel seasons 200

Hassan 885Hatkoti 293havelis

Fatehpur 137, 138Jaisalmer 187Jhunjhunu 136Mandawa 137Nawalgarh 134Purani Haveli 919Shekhawati 135

Havelock Island 1093-8, 1096

Hawa Mahal 111hawksbill turtles 1101Hazarduari 490Hazrat Nizam-ud-din

Dargah 68-9headhunting 579health 1204-10

children, travel with 48drinking water 1172environmental hazards

1208-10Heliodorus Pillar 655Hem Kund 437Hemis 247Hemis Shukperchan 257henna work 1158hepatitis 1205, 1207herbal medicine, see

ayurvedaherons 612Hessaraghatta 868-9hijras 1129hiking, see trekking

Hill Maria people 681Hill Miri people 573hill stations 22

Coonoor 1074-5Darjeeling 495, 499, 12Kotagiri 1075-6Mt Abu 169-74Mussoorie 415-19Nilgiri hills 1074, 1074Ooty 1077-82, 1078-9Pachmarhi 655-8

Himachal Pradesh 50, 280-348, 282-3

accommodation 280, 281climate 280, 284festivals 281food 281highlights 282-3internet resources 281planning information

280-1travel seasons 280

Himalaya, the 13, 1170, 13best viewpoints 437, 511,

539, 551Chandrisilla Peak 437Khangchendzonga 539,

551, 554, 556-7, 1170, 556

Ladakh 228-61, 250-1mountain railways 501Sikkim 556-7trekking 36-7, 434-5,

556-7zanskar 262-4

Himalayan bears 498, 539Himalayan Mountaineering

Institute 498, 500Hindu temples

1000-Pillared Temple 932

Airavatesvara Temple 1052

Akshardham 697Anegundi 902Arunachaleshwar Temple

1034Badrinath Temple 432Bala Hanuman Temple

722Bhekhali Temple 304Bhojeshwar Temple

649-50Bhutnath Mandir 297Bijli Mahadev Temple

304Birla Mandir 920-1Bisheshwar

(Bishweshwar) Mahadev Temple 297

1232

InDeX H

-I

Hindu temples continued Brahma Temple 141Brahmeswar Mandir 598Brajeshwari Devi Temple

331Brihadishwara Temple

1048-9Bull Temple 861Chandi Devi Temple 419Channakeshava Temple

885Chaturbhuj Temple 629Chaurasi Temples 339Chhatarpur Mandir 74-5Chintaman Ganesh

Mandir 659Dakshineswar 462Dhirdham Mandir 499Dodda Ganesha Temple

861Dwarkadhish Temple 723EkambareshwaraTemple

1032Ekardash Rudra Mandir

297Ellora 785-7, 787, 639Five Rathas 1025Gangaikondacholapuram

1052Gangotri Temple 431Gokarna 894Gopal Mandir 659Hadimba Temple 306-7Harsiddhi Mandir 659Hoysaleswara Temple 885Iskcon Temple 861Jagannath Mandir 585,

605-6Jagannath Temple 531Jagdish Temple 160Jakhu Temple 285Janardhana Temple

954Kailasa Temple 786Kailasanatha Temple

1031-2Kali Bari Mandir 286Kalighat Temple 462-4Kamakhya Mandir 561Kamakshi Amman

Temple 1032Kapaleeshwarar Temple

1012Kedargauri Mandir 597Kesava Deo Temple 373Keshava Temple 880

Khajuraho 633-40, 634, 16, 636-7

Kumari Amman Temple 1064

Lakshmi Narayan Temple (Delhi) 68

Lakshmi Narayan Temple (Orchha) 629

Lakshmi Narayan Temple (Rajgir) 529

Lakshmi Narayan Temple Complex 336

Laxman Temple 679Lingaraj Mandir 596Mahakaleshwar Mandir

659Mahalaxmi Temple 743Mansa Devi 419Mata Temple 215Meenakshi Amman

Temple 1058-60, 1160-1

Mubarak Mandi 277Mukteswar Mandir 597Mumba Devi Temple 739Nasik 777Nataraja Temple 1045Pap Mochani (Gayatri)

Temple 141Parsurameswar Mandir

598Pataleshvara Cave

Temple 801-2Raghunath Mandir 277Raghunath Temple 304Raja Rani Mandir 598Ram Janam Bhumi 382Ram Raja Temple 629Ramanathaswamy

Temple 1063Rani Sati Temple 136Rock Fort Temple 1052-3Saraswati Temple 141Shore Temple 1025Shri Krishna Temple 993Shri Omkar Mandhata

665Shri Padmanabhaswamy

Temple 945Siddheswar Mandir 597Simhachalam Temple 933Sirpur 679Sri Durgiana Temple 215Sri Jambukeshwara

Temple 1053Sri Manakula Vinayagar

Temple 1038Sri Ramakrishna Math

1013Sri Ranganathaswamy

Temple 1053

Sun Temple (Konark) 611Sun Temple (Modhera)

698Swaminarayan Temple

691Tapkeshwar Temple

412-13Temple of Somnath 712Thirunelly Temple 996Trimbakeshwar Temple

780Tripura Sundari Mandir

587Undavalli Cave Temples

937Vadakkunathan

Kshetram Temple 992Vaikunta Perumal Temple

1032Vaital Mandir 598Varadaraja Perumal

Temple 1032Vashisht Mandir 316Venkateshwara Temple

938-9Virupaksha Temple 897Vishnupad Temple 523Vishwanath Temple 391-2Vittala Temple 897

Hinduism 1110, 1130-3Hinju 259Hirapur 605history 1107-23

books 1107British rule 1116-17Chola reign 1110, 1111early civilisations 1107-10French rule 1116Gandhi, Mahatma 1119,

1119-20, 1121, 1153, 1120

Gupta empire 1110Hindu reign 1110-11Independence 1117-19Indian Uprising 1118India-Pakistan Wars

1122, 1123internet resources 1108Kashmir conflict 1104-5,

1122Maratha era 1115Mughal empire 1113-14Muslim reign 1111-12Partition 1120-1Portuguese era 1115-16Rajput era 1111, 1115Satavahana empire 1110Sino-Indian War 1122Vijayanagar empire 1113

hitching 1198

HIV 1207hockey 1129holidays 1187-8homestays 1180Honupatta 260Hooghly River 486-7Hoolock gibbons 587horse polo 1129horse racing 1079horse riding

Darjeeling 500Ladakh 228Manali 311Nainital 441Pushkar 143Udaipur 161zanskar 228

Hospet 903-4hot-air ballooning

Jaipur 115Manali 311

hotels 1179-80houseboats

Kerala backwaters 965, 966-7, 1000

Srinagar 271Hubli 904Hugging Mother, the 961Hunder 252-3Hyderabad 915-31, 916,

920, 923, 925, 926accommodation 922-4courses 921-2drinking 927-8entertainment 928festivals 922food 924-7internet access 929medical services 929shopping 928-9sights 916-21tourist information 929tours 922travel to/from 929-30travel within 930-1volunteering 921

hydroelectric schemes 1171

IIbrahim Rouza 908ice trekking 228, 263Igatpuri 780immigration 1191Imphal 581-3incense 1154Independence 1117-19Indian Uprising 1118Indian wild ass 730

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1233In

DeX I-K India-Pakistan Wars 1122,

1123indigenous peoples

Adivasis 598, 680, 681, 682-3, 1128

Andaman Islands 1094Andamanese 1094Arunachal Pradesh

573, 574Bastar people 681internet resources 1127Jarawa 1094Madhya Pradesh 681Meghalaya 587Nagaland 579Nicobar Islands 1094Nicobarese 1094Nilgiri hills 1076Odisha 598, 602Onge 1094Sentinelese 1094Shompen 1094Tamil Nadu 1076

Indira Gandhi International Airport 99

Indore 662-73, 663influenza 1207inlay work 1150, see also

marble inlay workinner line permits,

see permitsInstrument of Accession

1121insurance

health 1204travel 1183, 1200-1

insurgent violence 1188International Animal

Rescue 847International Society

for Krishna Consciousness 374

internet access 1183internet resources, see

also individual locationsarchitecture 1163booking trains 34-5disabilities, travellers

with 1191environmental issues

1171gay & lesbian travellers

1182health 1206history 1108indigenous peoples 1127organised tours 1202safe travel 1188volunteering agencies 44wildlife 1166

wine 1145women travellers 1177

Irrawaddy dolphins 612Iskcon 489Islam 1112, 1133-4Islamnagar 649Iswari Minar Swarga Sal 113Itanagar 572-3Itimad-ud-Daulah 360itineraries 29-33, see also

individual locations

JJabalpur 672-3, 673Jagdalpur 680-2Jageshwar 447Jahan, Shah 1114Jaigarh 125Jain Rock Sculptures 625-6Jain temples

Babu Amichand Panalal Adishwarji Jain Temple 743

Chandraprabhu 186Delwara temples 172Digambara Jain

Temple 66Ellora cave temples

787, 787Hutheesingh Temple 690Khajuraho 640, 634,

636-7Laxminarayan Temple

187Nasiyan (Red) Temple

139Parasnath 186Parasnath Temple 533Patan 699Ranakpur 169Rikhabdev 186Sambhavanth 186Shatrunjaya 705-6Sheetalnathji Mandir

461-2Shitalnath 186Sravanabelagola 887Sultanbatheri 996

Jainism 1108, 1135-6Jaipur 108-24, 110-11

accommodation 115-17activities 113drinking 119entertainment 119-20food 117-19internet access 121medical services 121shopping 120-4sights 109-13

tourist information 121-2tours 113-15travel to/from 122, 123travel within 122-3walking tour 114, 114

Jaisalmer 183-92, 184-5accommodation 187-90food 190-1internet access 192shopping 191-3sights 186-7tourist information 192tours 187, 188-9travel to/from 192travel within 192

Jaisalmer Fort 186-7, 15 Jalgaon 791-2Jallianwala Bagh

massacre 216Jamdar Glacier 434Jammu 50, 277-9, 278

accommodation 225, 277climate 224drinking 277-8festivals 225food 225, 277-8highlights 226-7internet resources 225planning information

224-5sights 277travel seasons 224travel to/from 278-9travel within 279

Jamnagar 720-3, 721Jantar Mantar 68, 109-10Japanese B encephalitis

1205, 1207Japanese Peace Pagoda

497-8Jarawa people 1094Jari 300Jaswantgarh War Memo-

rial 577Jawalamukhi 332jeep safaris, see also

shared jeepsBandhavgarh National

Park 677Bandipur National Park

880Corbett Tiger Reserve

439Jaldhapara Wildlife

Sanctuary 493Kanha National Park

674-5Leh 235Mudumalai Tiger Reserve

1082

Nagarhole National Park 881

Pench Tiger Reserve 678Periyar Wildlife Sanctu-

ary 969Sasan Gir Wildlife

Sanctuary 713Satpura Tiger Reserve

657Wayanad Wildlife

Sanctuary 996, 997Jehangir 1114Jesus Christ in India 272jewellery 1149, 1150Jeypore 615-16Jhansi 388, 628Jharkhand 51, 531-3, 516

accommodation 514, 515climate 514festivals 515food 514, 515highlights 516internet resources 515planning information

514-15safe travel 517travel seasons 514

Jhunjhunu 135-6Jispa 249Jodhpur 174-82, 176-7jodhpurs 180Joranda salt lick 602Jorhat 569Joshimath 434-6Junagadh 715-18, 716jungle trekking, see

trekkingJyotisar 211

KKabi Lunchok 546Kachchh 724-31Kadmat Island 1002Kakkabe 884-5Kalakshetra Foundation

1011-12Kalarippayat 945Kali 1131Kalimpong 507-13, 508Kalinda Parvat 431Kalpa 296-7Kalpetta 996Kanchipuram 1031-3, 1031Kangra 331-2Kannur 998-1001Kanyakumari 1064-7, 1065Kapurthala 221Karenghar 571Kargil 261-2

1234

InDeX K

-L

Karmapa 545Karnataka 53, 853-911, 855

accommodation 853, 854

climate 853festivals 854food 853, 854highlights 855internet resources 854planning information

853-4travel seasons 853

Karsha 264Kasar Devi 446Kashmir 50, 264-76, 226-7

accommodation 225climate 224festivals 225food 225highlights 226-7internet resources 225Kashmir conflict 1122planning information

224-5travel seasons 224

Kasol 300-3Katabonia 618Kathakali 945Kathiawar Peninsula,

see Saurashtrakati rolls 470Kausani 447-8kayaking, see also rafting

Alappuzha 963Dandeli 905Goa 815Leh 235Palolem 849Rishikesh 425-7

Kaza 343-5kebabs 379Kedarnath 432Kench Chorgi Lorde 557Kerala 54, 941-1002,

943, 12accommodation 942climate 941festivals 942food 942highlights 943internet resources 942planning information

941-2travel seasons 941

Kesariya 522

Kesgarh Sahib 221Keylong 341-2khadi 1153Khadia people 602Khajjiar 336Khajuraho 633-43, 634,

16, 636-7Khalsi 258Khangchendzonga 554,

556-7, 1170, 556best viewpoints 511,

539, 551Khardung 251-2Khardung La 251Khoksar 341Khotachiwadi 760Khuda Bakhsh Oriental

Library 519Khuldabad 785Khuri 193-4khurs 730Khusru Bagh 383Ki 345Kibber 345Kinnaur Valley 293-7Kisama Heritage Village

580kites 24, 685, 691Kochi 977-90, 977, 978,

980, 982accommodation 982-5activities 981courses 981drinking 985-7entertainment 987festivals 981-2food 985-7internet access 988medical services 988shopping 987-8sights 977-81tourist information 988-9tours 981travel to/from 989-91travel within 989-90

Kodagu (Coorg) region 882-5

Kodaikanal 1067-71, 1068Kohima 578-80Kolhapur 808-10Kolhua Complex 522Kolkata 51, 450-81, 452,

454-5, 458, 463, 472accommodation 450,

451, 466-70activities 465climate 450drinking 475-6entertainment 476

festivals 451food 450, 451, 470-5highlights 452internet access 478internet resources 451itineraries 457medical services 479planning information

450-1safe travel 478shopping 477-8sights 453-65street names 464tourist information 479tours 465-6travel seasons 450travel to/from 479-80travel within 480-1volunteering 465

Kolkata Panorama 457Kollam 959-61, 960Konark 610-12Kondh people 598Konkan Coast 794-6Koraput 616-17Kota 152-3Kota people 1076Kotagiri 1075-6Kottayam 966-8Kovalam 950-3, 951Kozhikode 994-5, 995Krishna 1131Kuari Pass 434-5Kullu 303-5, 301Kumarakom 968-9Kumbakonam 1047, 1048Kumbh Mela 27, 383, 1126Kumbhalgarh 168Kumily 969, 971Kundalpur 531Kurseong 494Kurukshetra 211Kurumba people 1076Kushinagar 404-6, 405Kutch, see KachchhKV Paradise 583-4

lLachen 547Lachung 547Lachung La 249Ladakh 228-61, 250-1

Leh-Manali route 248-9permits 231trekking 228-9

Lahaul 340-2climate 340

Lahore Gate 61Lahore Resolution 1119lakes

Chandratal 343Chilika Lake 612Dal Lake 267Green Lake 547Gurudongmar Lake 548Hem Kund 437Hussain Sagar 919Kankaria Lake 691Kathok Lake 554Khecheopalri Lake

551, 553Lake Gangabal 266-7Lake Pichola 157-8Lampokhari 556Loktak Lake 583Naini Lake 441Nakki Lake 171Pahalgam 276Periyar Wildlife

Sanctuary 970Prashar Lake 297Ramganga Reservoir 438Rewalsar Lake 298-9Sukhna Lake 205Tamdil Lake 584Tsomgo (Changu,

Tsangu) Lake 545-6Ward’s Lake 588

Lakshadweep 1001-2Lakshman Jhula 424Lakshmi 1131Lakshmi Bai 1118Lakshmi Narayan Temple

Complex 336Lal Qila, see Red FortLalitgiri 619Lamayuru 260Lampokhari 556Land’s End 441language 18, 1211-21

courses 49, 325, 393-5, 417, 500, 1014, 1183-4

food glossary 1145-7lassi 191, 400, 1189Le Corbusier Centre 205leatherback turtles 1101leatherwork 1149-50leeches 554, 1210legal matters 1184Leh 230-45, 232-3, 236,

250-1accommodation 235-40activities 233-5courses 233-5drinking 242-3festivals 235

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1235In

DeX L-M

food 240-2internet access 243medical services 243shopping 243sights 230-3tourist information 243tours 233-5travel to/from 244-5travel within 245

Leh-Manali route 248-9Lenyadri 806leopards 1166

Bandipur National Park 880

Biligiri Ranganna Temple Wildlife Sanctuary 882

Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary 446

Chinnar Wildlife Sanctuary 976

Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary 849

Dandeli 905Govind Wildlife

Sanctuary & National Park 434

Himalayan zoological Park 539

Namdapha National Park 572

Neora Valley National Park 511

Padmaja Naidu Himalayan zoological Park 498

Pin Valley National Park 346

Sanjay Gandhi National Park 749

Sasan Gir Wildlife Sanctuary 713

Satkosia Tiger Reserve 604

lesbian travellers 762, 1182Lhalung 346Likir 256Line of Control 1122,

1123Lingalakonda 935lions 714, 1166

Lion Safari Park 949Nandankanan

zoological Park 604National zoological

Gardens 72Sakkarbaug zoo 716Sasan Gir Wildlife

Sanctuary 713literature 1104, 1158-9, see

also booksfestivals 1159

Hindu texts 1131-2Vedas, the 1108, 1131-2

Little Andaman 1101-2Lohagarh 126Lonar 791Lonavla 798Long Island 1100Lucknow 375-81, 376

mMadgaon, see MargaoMadhubani paintings 521Madhya Pradesh 52,

620-83, 622accommodation 620, 621climate 620festivals 621food 620, 621highlights 622internet resources 621planning information 620-1travel seasons 620

Madikeri 882-5Madras, see ChennaiMadurai 1058-62, 1059magazines 1179Mah Laqa Bai 918-19Mahabaleshwar 806-8Mahabalipuram,

see MamallapuramMahabharata, the 1132Mahal, Mumtaz 354, 358Mahamaham Tank 1047Maharashtra 53, 773-810,

775accommodation 773,

774, 776climate 773festivals 774food 773highlights 775internet resources 774planning information

773-4travel seasons 773

Maheshwar 666-7Mahishmati 666-7Mahmud of Ghazni 1111Maidan, the 455Majuli Island 569-70Makaibari 494Malana 300malaria 1206-7Malpe 893Mamallapuram 1024-30,

1026Man 255Mana Village 432-6

Manali 306-16, 308, 312Mananthavadi 996Mandarmani 486Mandawa 136-7Mandi 297-8mandirs, see Hindu

temples, Jain temples, Sikh temples

Mandrem 840-1Mandu 667-72, 670Mandvi 729-30Maner 522Mangalajodi 612Mangalore 887-92, 888Manikaran 303Manipur 581-3Mankida people 602maps 1184Mapusa 826-7Maratha era 1115marble inlay work 95, 212,

354, 361, 365, 460, 627, 643, 1150

Marble Rocks 673-4Maredumilli 936Margao 842-5, 843markets & bazaars 21

Amritsar 218Anjuna flea market 837Bastar 682Chandni Chowk 66-7Chatikona 615Delhi 96Devaraja Market 870Janpath & Tibetan

Markets 96Khangchendzonga

Market 543Krishnarajendra (City)

Market 860Mandu 670Margao 844Mullik Ghat Flower

Market 459Onkadelli 616Panaji 822

Markha Valley 249-50marriage 1124Martand 275martial arts 945Masrur 332Matabari 586-7Matha Amrithanandamayi

Mission 961Matheran 796-8Matho 246Mathura 372-4, 373Mattan 275Mauryan empire 1109-10

mausoleums, see tombs, shrines & mausoleums

Mayabunder 1100Mayapur 489McLeod Ganj 320-48, 322

accommodation 326-7activities 321-4drinking 328entertainment 328festivals 325food 327-8medical services 329shopping 328-9sights 320-1tourist information 329travel to/from 329-30travel within 329-30volunteering 324

measures 1179Mechuka 575medical services 1206meditation courses 40

Bodhgaya 526Delhi 79, 80Eluru 938Hyderabad 921-2Leh 233-4Maharashtra 774Mandvi 729McLeod Ganj 325Nagarjunakonda 932Pune 802Rishikesh 424-5

Meenakshi Amman Temple 1058-60, 1160-1

Meghalaya 587-91mehndi 1158Mehrangarh 174-5Mehrauli Archaeological

Park 103Mehtab Bagh 360Melaghar 587Melkote 880memorials, see monuments

& statues; tombs, shrines & mausoleums

meningitis 1205Merak 255Mercara, see Madikerimeteorite crater 791Mettupalayam 1074Middle Andaman

1099-101, 891Milam Glacier 435Minicoy Island 1002Miru 248Missionaries of Charity 465Mithila (Madhubani)

paintings 521

1236

InDeX M

Mizoram 583-4mobile phones 18, 1188-9Mobor 848Modhera 698-9Moghan David Synagogue

459Mon 581monasteries 20, see

also Buddhist temples, gompas, stupas

Bavikonda 935Bodhgaya 524-6Dhamekh Stupa &

Monastery Ruins 402Ellora 786, 787Ghum 499Guntupalli 939Lhalung 346Mindrolling Monastery

411Monastery of

St Augustine 825Namdroling Monastery

886Odisha 619Samten Yongcha

Monastery 575Sanchi 653Sankaram 935-6satras 570Sikkim 534, 553-7Tergar Monastery 526Than 728Thotlakonda 935

money 18, 1184-6scams 1174

moneychangers 1185Monpa people 573monuments & statues

Abbakka, Rana 889Arjuna’s Penance 1025-6Bibi-qa-Maqbara 780-1Buddha Statue

(Hyderabad) 919Buddha statues 411, 526,

549, 919, 938Char Dham 548Charminar 916-17Dhyana Buddha 938Gateway of India 736Golgumbaz 907-8Gomateshvara Statue

886Guru Padmasambhava

statue 548Heliodorus Pillar 655

Ibrahim Rouza 908Jaswantgarh War

Memorial 577Kamaraj Memorial 1066Nandi statue 897Queen Victoria 662Rupmati’s Pavilion 669Sakyamuni Complex 549Samdruptse 548Sanchi pillars 653Shiva statue 548Shivpuri 627Vivekananda Memorial

1064Morjim 840Morni Hills 211mosques

Adina Masjid 489Ahmed Shah’s Mosque

692architecture 1163, 1164Baradwari Mosque 489Chamkan Mosque 489Dhai-din-ka-Jhonpra 139Haji Ali Dargah 741-2Hazratbal Mosque 270Jama Masjid (Agra) 360Jama Masjid

(Ahmedabad) 692Jama Masjid (Delhi) 67Jama Masjid (Fatehpur

Sikri) 369Jama Masjid (Mandu) 669Jama Masjid (Srinagar)

267Jami Masjid

(Champaner) 702Khanqah Shah-i-

Hamadan 267Mahabat Maqbara 716Mecca Masjid 921Mosque of Dilawar Khan

668Moti Masjid 646Nakhoda Mosque 459Rani Sipri’s Mosque 692Siddi Sayid’s Mosque 692Sidi Bashir Mosque 692Taj-ul-Masjid 645

Mother Theresa 460Missionaries of

Charity 465Mother Teresa’s

Motherhouse 455motorcycle travel 1200-1

mountain passes 20Moula Ali Dargah 918mountain biking

Gangtok 539Manali 310

mountain railwaysDarjeeling Himalayan

Railway 501Kangra Valley toy train

332Mahaparinirvan Express

529Nilgiri Mountain Railway

1082, 16mountaineering 37

altitude sickness 1209Gulmarg 275Har Ki Dun Protection

& Mountaineering Association 434

Himalayan Mountaineering Institute 498, 500

Leh 234-5Manali 310McLeod Ganj 323Nainital 441Nehru Institute of

Mountaineering 433Rishikesh 427Uttarkashi 433

Mountbatten, Louis 1120Mt Abu 169-74, 170Mt Arunachala 1034-5Mubarak Mandi 277mud wrestling 69Mughal empire 1113-14Mulgandha Kuti Vihar

403Mullik Ghat Flower Market

459Mumbai 52, 732-72,

734, 15accommodation 732,

733, 751-6activities 748children, travel with 737climate 732Colaba 736-7, 752-3, 757,

761-2, 765-6, 738courses 749-51drinking 761-4Elephanta Island 745-8entertainment 764-5festivals 733food 732, 733, 756-61Fort Area & Churchgate

737-40, 753-4, 758-9, 762-3, 766-7, 742-3

Gorai Island 744-5highlights 734internet access 768internet resources 733itineraries 736Kalbadevi 740-4, 759-60,

767, 746-7

Mahalaxmi 740-4, 759-60, 767, 746-7

medical services 768nightlife 761-4planning information

732-3shopping 765-8sights 735-48tourist information 768tours 751travel seasons 732travel to/from 769-72travel within 771-2volunteering 749walking tour 750, 750Western Suburbs 754-6,

760-1, 763-4, 767-8, 755

Munnar 973-6, 974Munsyari 448Muria people 681Murshidabad 490Murud 794-5museums & galleries

Academy of Fine Arts 454

Adivart Tribal & Folk Art Museum 641

Anand Bhavan 383-5Anthropological Museum

681, 1090AP State Museum 919Ashutosh Museum of

Indian Art 461Banking Museum 457Bengal Natural History

Museum 499Bharat Bhavan 646Bhuri Singh Museum 337Birla Academy of Art &

Culture 465Birla Modern Art Gallery

921Bison Lodge 655BM Birla Science Centre

921Brahma Kumaris Peace

Hall & Museum 171Buddha Museum 406Calico Museum of

Textiles 688-9Car Museum 892Central Asian Museum

231Chatterjee & Lal 741Chemould Prescott

Road 741Chhatrapati Shivaji

Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya 737

Chowmahalla Palace 917

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1237In

DeX M-N

Crafts Museum 72Crystal Gallery 160Don Bosco Museum of

Indigenous Cultures 588-9

Dr Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum 741

Experimenter 465Galerie Mirchandani +

Steinruecke 741Gallery Maskara 741Gandhi Memorial

Museum 1060Gandhi Museum 519Gandhi Smriti 70-1Goa State Museum 817Gu Chu Sum Movement

Gallery 321Guild 741Harrington Street Arts

Centre 454Health Museum 922HEH The Nizam’s

Museum 919Hill Palace Museum 991Himalayan Tibet

Museum 497Houses of Goa Museum

819Indian Museum 455Indira Gandhi Memorial

Museum 71Indira Gandhi Rashtriya

Manav Sangrahalaya 874

Indore Central Museum 662

Janapada Loka Folk Arts Museum 869

Jayachamarajendra Art Gallery 871

Jehangir Art Gallery 740Jhaveri Contemporary

741Karnataka Chitrakala

Parishath 858Kerala Folklore Museum

980-1Khajuraho

Archaeological Museum 641

Khuda Bakhsh Oriental Library 519

Kolkata Panorama 457Krishnapuram Palace

Museum 961Lal Bagh Palace 662Lalbhai Dalpatbhai

Museum 689Le Corbusier Centre 205Losel Doll Museum 331Mani Bhavan 743

Maritime Museum 979Mattancherry Palace 980Mountaineering Museum

498Museum of Christian

Art 825Museum of Tribal Arts &

Artefacts 599National Gallery of

Modern Art 739, 857National Gallery of

Portraits (Chandigarh) 205

National Gandhi Museum 67

National Museum (Delhi) 69-70

National Museum of Natural History 73

National Rail Museum 73Naulakha Museum 718NC Mehta Gallery

689-90Nehru Centenary Tribal

Museum 919Nehru Memorial Museum

& Planetarium 71Netaji Bhawan 456Prince of Wales Museum

737Project 88 741Puthe Maliga Palace

Museum 945Rail Museum 874Rani Durgavati Museum

672Roerich Gallery &

Urusvati Museum 305Sacred Heart Natural

Science Museum 1068Salar Jung Museum 919Samudrika Marine

Museum 1090Sanchi Archaeological

Museum 654Santa Cruz Basilica 979Scindia Museum 626Sea Shell Museum 708Secretariat of the

Tibetan Government in Exile 321

Shankar’s International Doll Museum 67

Shree Chhatrapati Shahu Museum 809

Shreyas Folk Museum 689Submarine Museum 933Sudha Cars Museum 922Sulabh International

Museum of Toilets 76Survey of India Museum

412

Tagore’s House 460-1Taj Museum 359Tea Museum 973Tibet Museum 320Tribal Heritage Museum

448Tribal Research Centre

Museum 1077Veerayatan 529Vintage & Classic Car

Collection 161, 718Visvesvaraya Industrial &

Technical Museum 857Vivekananda House 1011Volte 741

music 1156courses 143, 161, 395,

451, 749, 875musical instruments

1150-1Mussoorie 415-19, 416-17Muthanga 996Mysore 869-79, 870-1mythology 1131

nNabadwip 489Naga people 579Nagaland 578-81Nagarjunakonda 931-2Naggar 305-6Nagpur 792-3Nahargarh 113Nainital 440-4, 442-3Nakeela La 249Nako 347Nalabana Island 612, 613Nalanda 530-1Naldehra 292Namchi 548-9Namgyal Institute of

Tibetology 538Nanak, Guru 1114Nanda Devi 434, 435Nandi 1131Nandi Hills 869Nandyavarta Mahal 531Naranag 266-7Narmada Valley

Development 1171Nasik 776-9, 777Nathu La 546national parks, reserves

& wildlife sanctuaries 1165-9

Bandhavgarh National Park 676-8

Bandipur National Park 880-1

Betla (Palamau) National Park 532-3

Bhagwan Mahaveer Sanctuary 825

Bhitarkanika Wildlife Sanctuary 618-19

Biligiri Ranganna Temple Wildlife Sanctuary 882

Binsar Wildlife Sanctuary 446

Blackbuck National Park 705

Chail 293Chinnar Wildlife

Sanctuary 976Corbett Tiger Reserve

438-40Cotigao Wildlife

Sanctuary 849Crocodile Production

Centre 949Dandeli 905Daroji Sloth Bear

Sanctuary 903Eravikulam National

Park 976Govind Wildlife

Sanctuary & National Park 434

Himalayan Bird Park 285Jaldhapara Wildlife

Sanctuary 493Kalatop Wildlife

Sanctuary 335Kanha National Park

674-6Karanji Lake Nature

Park 874Kaziranga National Park

567-9Ken Gharial Sanctu-

ary 644Keoladeo Ghana National

Park 129Khijadiya Bird

Sanctuary 723Kumarakom Bird

Sanctuary 969Lion Safari Park 949Maenam Wildlife

Sanctuary 550Mahatma Gandhi Marine

National Park 1093Marine National Park 723Mudumalai Tiger Reserve

1082-3Murlen National Park 584Nagarhole National Park

881-2Nalsarovar Bird

Sanctuary 698Namdapha National

Park 572

1238

InDeX N

-P

national parks, reserves & wildlife sanctuaries continued

Nameri National Park 567

Nanda Devi Sanctuary 434, 435

Neora Valley National Park 511

Neyyar Wildlife Sanctuary 949-50

Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve 881, 1076

Nokrek Biosphere Reserve 587

Odisha 595Panna National Park 644Parambikulam Wildlife

Sanctuary 976Pench Tiger Reserve

678-9Periyar Wildlife

Sanctuary 969-73, 971Pin Valley National Park

346Pobitora Wildlife

Sanctuary 566Rajafi National Park 423-7Ranthambhore National

Park 147-9root bridges 590Sajjan Garh Wildlife

Sanctuary 161Sanjay Gandhi National

Park 749Sariska Tiger Reserve 132Sasan Gir Wildlife

Sanctuary 713-15Satkosia Gorge

Sanctuary 604Satkosia Tiger Reserve

604Satpura National Park

655Satpura Tiger Reserve

657Similipal National Park

602Singalila National Park

506-7Singba Rhododendron

Sanctuary 547Sultanpur Bird

Sanctuary 212Sunderbans Tiger

Reserve 485-6Tadoba-Andhari Tiger

Reserve 793

Thattekkad Bird Sanctuary 990

Valley of Flowers National Park 436-7

Varsey Rhododendron Sanctuary 553

Vedanthangal Bird Sanctuary 1031

Wayanad Wildlife Sanctuary 996-8

Wild Ass Sanctuary 730-1National Research Centre

on Camels 199Navratri 27-8Nawalgarh 133-5Neermahal 587Nehru, Jawaharlal 1120,

1121Nehru Institute of

Mountaineering 433Neil Island 1098-9Nepal border crossings

402, 407, 449, 492, 505, 512, 523, 544, 1193, 1195

Netaji Bhawan 456Netaji Subhash Bose

International Airport 479Neveh Shalome Synagogue

459New Delhi, see DelhiNew Jalpaiguri 490-3newspapers 1179Nicobar Islands

geography 1171Nicobarese people 1094Nilgiri hills 1074, 1076, 1074Nilgiri tahrs 976Nimmu 256Nirbhaya 1106Nishi people 573nizams 1115noise pollution 1172Norbugang Park 554Norbulingka Institute 331North Andaman 1099-101Northeast States 52,

558-91, 560accommodation 558,

559climate 558festivals 559food 559highlights 560indigenous people

573, 574internet resources 559planning information

558-9safe travel 582travel seasons 558

Nubra Valley 250-4settlement names 252

oobservatories

Jantar Mantar (Delhi) 68Jantar Mantar (Jaipur)

109-10Vedh Shala 659-60

Observatory Hill 495-6Odisha 52, 592-619, 594, 2

accommodation 592, 593climate 592, 595festivals 593food 592, 593highlights 594internet resources 593planning information

592-3safe travel 595travel seasons 592

Old Goa 823-6, 824olive ridley marine turtles

614, 1101‘Om’ 1132Omkareshwar 665-6Onge people 1094Onkadelli 616Ootacamund, see OotyOoty 1077-82, 1078-9

accommodation 1079-80activities 1078drinking 1081food 1081internet access 1081shopping 1081sights 1077tourist information 1081tours 1079travel to/from 1081-2travel within 1082

opening hours 1186Orchha 628-32, 630Residency 375Orissa, see OdishaOsho (Bhagwan Shree

Rajneesh) 802Osian 182-3

Ppaan 1138Pachmarhi 655-8, 656Padum 262-4Pahalgam 275-6

golf 276rafting 276

painting 1151, 1156-7Pakistan

border crossings 182, 219, 220, 1193-4

India-Pakistan Wars 1122, 1123

palaces 20accommodation 1181Aga Khan Palace 801Amar Mahal 277Baz Bahadur’s Palace 669Bengaluru Palace 857Bundi Palace 149-50Chowmahalla Palace 917City Palace (Jaipur)

109, 2City Palace (Udaipur)

158-9Darbargadh 724Fatehpur Sikri 369-72,

370-1Gajlaxmi Palace 600Hazarduari 490Hindola Mahal 668Jahaz Mahal 668Jai Vilas Palace 626Jehangir Mahal 629Karenghar 571Lal Bagh Palace 662Laxmi Vilas Palace 699Leh Palace 230Maheshwar Palace 666-7Man Singh Palace 625Mattancherry Palace 980Mysore Palace 869-70,

872-3Nil Kanth Palace 669Padmanabhapuram

Palace 956Raj Mahal 629Royal Centre (Hampi)

897-8Royal Palace (Thanjavur)

1049-83Sajjan Garh (Monsoon

Palace) 160-1Sharad Baug Palace 725-6Sukh Mahal 150Suraj Mahl’s Palace 130Taj Mahal 10, 354-8, 359,

361, 11, 356-7Tipu Sultan’s Palace

859-60Tirumalai Nayak Palace

1060Tumlong 546Ujjayanta Palace 585

Palampet 933Palampur 332Palitana 705-6Palolem 849-52, 849,

14, 891Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1239In

DeX P-R

Pampore 275Panaji 817-23, 818Panamik 254Panchachuli Weavers

Factory 445Panchakki 781Panchuli Kund 657pandas 511, 539Pandua 489Pangiong Tso 255Panjim, see PanajiPapanasini 996paragliding

Arambol 841Gangtok 539Goa 815, 834Lonavla 798Manali 310Sikkim 537

parasailing 486, 657, 815Parasnath 533parks & gardens

Abraham’s Spice Garden 970

Bryant Park 1068Cubbon Park 857Khusru Bagh 383Kolkata Botanical

Gardens 462Lalbagh Botanical

Gardens 857Lloyd Botanical Gardens

499Lodi Gardens 72-3Maidan, the 455Mehtab Bagh 360Nehru Park 73Nek Chand Rock Garden

203, 207Ooty Botanical Gardens

1077Panchakki 781Pinjore (Yadavindra)

Gardens 210-11Rabindra Sarovar 465Rose Garden 1077Srinagar 269-70Theosophical Society

1013-14parties (Goa) 840, 851Partition 1120-1Parur 991Parvati Valley 300-3, 301Pasighat 574, 575passports 1191, 1192Patan 699Pathankot 221Patiala 222-3Patna 517-22, 518

Patola silk textiles 699Pattadakal 907Pattan Valley 341Pavagadh 702-3Pelling 551-2, 551Pemako 576Pemayangtse 552-3permits 1186

Andaman Islands 1087Bylakuppe 886Corbett Tiger Reserve

438Gujarat 694, 728Josimath 434Kaza 344Kolkata 479Ladakh 231Leh 234-5Leh-Manali 248Marine National Park 723meeting the Dalai Lama

317Northeast States 565Shimla 290Sikkim 505, 537-8Tso Moriri Loop 255-6

phone codes 1189-90photography 1186-7

etiquette 1175Phuktal 264pietra dura, see marble

inlay workpilgrimages 50, 51, 1125-6pilgrim’s rest houses 1180Pindari Glacier 435Pink City (Jaipur) 109-11pink flamingos 612Pin-Parvati Valley 302Pipli 605Pir Dastgir Sahib 268Pithabata 602Pithoragarh 449planning 10-54, see also

individual regionsbooking trains 34-5budgeting 19calendar of events 24-8children, travel with 46-8costs 19, 1182essentials 18-19highlights 10-17India basics 18-19India’s regions 49-54internet resources 19itineraries 29-33spiritual pursuits 38-41train travel 134-6travel seasons 18, 24-8travel themes 20-3

trekking 36-7volunteering 42-5

plantations, see coffee plantations, spice farms, tea estates

plants 1168-9poaching 1167polio 1205politics 1105-6, 1116-23

Tamil Nadu 1006pollution 1172, 1208Ponda 826Pondicherry, see

Puducherrypopulation 1105, 1170Port Blair 1088-92, 1089Portuguese era 1115-16postal services 1187pottery 1148Pragjyotishpura 561Project Tiger 677public holidays 1187-8Puducherry 1036-43, 1038Pulinkudi 953-4Pune 799-806, 800Punjab 49, 212-23, 202

accommodation 200, 201climate 200festivals 201food 200, 201highlights 202internet resources 201planning information

200-1travel seasons 200

puppetry 994Purana Qila 71-2Puri 605-10, 606Pushkar 141-7, 142

QQueen’s Bath 897-8Quepem 842Quilon, see KollamQutb Minar 102-3

rRabdentse 553rabies 1205, 1207Rabindra Sarovar 465Rabongla, see Ravanglaradio 1179rafting, see also kayaking

Bengaluru 861Darjeeling 499Gangtok 539Goa 849Leh 235

Manali 310Mumbai 748Northeast States 576Orchha 629Rishikesh 425-7Wayanad Wildlife

Sanctuary 996West Bengal 485

Raghurajpur 610railway retiring rooms

1180railways, see mountain

railways, train travelRaipur 679-80Rajasthan 49, 104-99,

106-7accommodation 105climate 104festivals 105food 105highlights 106-7internet resources 105planning information

104-5travel seasons 104

Rajgir 529-30Rajkot 719-20, 719Rajneesh, Bhagwan Shree

802Rajput era 1111, 1115Ralang 550Ram Janam Bhumi 382Ram Rai Darbar 412Ramayana, the 1132Rambha 613Rameswaram 1062-4Ramganga Reservoir

438Ramkund 776-7Ramoji Film City 922Rampur 293-4Ramtek 793Ramykund 657Ranakpur 169,

639Ranchi 531-2Rangdum 262Rangolis 1125Ratnagiri 619, 795Ravangla 549-50Raxaul 523Rayagada 615red ants 680Red Fort 61-3, 14, 62-3Reechgarh 657reiki

Pushkar 143Tamil Nadu 1027

Rekong Peo 295-6

1240

InDeX R

-S

religion 1105, 1108, 1110, 1112, 1114, 1130-6

architecture 1160-4books 1131, 1132, 1133,

1135etiquette 1135Hinduism 1130-3Islam 1112, 1133-4Jainism 1108, 1135-6pilgrimages 1125-6Sikhism 222, 1114, 1134zoroastrianism 1136

reservationsaccommodation 1178-9train travel 34-5

reserves, see national parks, reserves & wildlife sanctuaries

restaurants 1140-1service charges 1179

retreats, see ashrams, ayurveda, mediation courses, spas, yoga courses

Rewa Kund Group Ruins 669rhinoceros 1165, 1167

Bhimbetka 650Jaldhapara Wildlife

Sanctuary 493Kaziranga National Park

567-8 Mysore zoo 874Nandankanan

zoological Park 604National zoological

Gardens 72Pobitora Wildlife

Sanctuary 566Rishikesh 424-31, 426Rizong 258road rules 1197rock climbing

Badami 906Hampi 899Manali 311Nainital 441

rock paintings 650Rohet 183root bridges 590Ross Island 1090, 1101Rowlatt Acts 1119Royal Bengal tigers 1165, 12

Corbett Tiger Reserve 131

Sunderbans Tiger Reserve 485

Tadoba-Andhari Tiger Reserve 793

Royal Centre 897-8Royal Gaitor 113rubber fig-tree roots 590Rumbak 249Rumtek 544-5Rumtse 249Rupmati’s Pavilion 669Rushikonda 933

SSabado Gordo 25Sabarimala 973Saddle Peak 1101sadhus 1133safaris, see camel safaris;

elephant rides & safaris; jeep safaris; wildlife safaris

safe travel 1188Andaman Islands 1086bhang lassis 1189Bihar 517carbon-monoxide

poisoning 1208Chennai 1007-10Delhi 98drinking water 1172, 1209drugs 307, 815food 1174Goa 815Gokarna 894Hampi Bazaar 901Himachal Pradesh 299internet use 1183internet resources 1188Jharkhand 517Kashmir 265Kolkata 478Kovalam 950Mt Abu 173Northeast States 582Odisha 595Puri 605road conditions 1201scams 1174-5solo travellers 1177Varkala beaches 954women travellers 1176-7

Sagar Island 486Sai Baba 778Sakyamuni Complex 549Sam Sand Dunes 193Samdruptse 548Sanchi 650-4, 652, 1164Sangam 275, 383Sanganer 125-6Sangla 294-5

Sani 264Santal people 598Sarahan 294Sarchu 249saris 667, 719, 1151-2Sarnath 402-4, 403Sassaram 524Satapada 612-13Satavahana empire 1110Satna 644satras 570Saura people 598Saurashtra 703-23scams 1174-5

marble 366rickshaws 366

scenic flights 539, 883scuba diving, see diving &

snorkellingSecretariat of the Tibetan

Government in Exile 321Senji 1036Sentinelese people 1094Shah Jahan 354, 358, 1114Shahi Burj 61-6Shakti 1131Sham 257Shantiniketan 488-9shared jeeps 1201, see also

jeep safarisShatrunjaya 705-6shawls 304, 667, 726,

1151-2, 1154Shekhawati 133-8, 134Shey 247Shillong 587-90, 588Shimla 284-92, 286-7Shiva 1131Shivling 431Shivneri 806Shivpuri 627Shompen people 1094shopping 1148-54,

see also individual locations, markets & bazaars

antiques 1184bargaining 1185-6community & charity

cooperatives 1152government emporia 477handicrafts 726, 903,

999, 1019jewellery 1149, 1150marble inlay work 95,

365, 643, 1150saris 667, 719scams 366, 1174-5shawls 304, 667, 726

silk 269, 699, 1151-2spices 1154tea 1154textiles 1152-3

Shri Omkar Mandhata 665shrines, see tombs, shrines

& mausoleumsSiat Khnam 589Sidhibari 331Sikh temples

architecture 1163Golden Temple 212-15,

886, 13, 1162-3Gurdwara Bangla

Sahib 73Gurdwara Fatehgarh

Sahib 223Gwailor 625Har Mandir Takht 519Kesgarh Sahib 221

Sikhism 222, 1114, 1134Sikkim 51, 534-57, 536

accommodation 534, 535climate 534festivals 535food 535highlights 536internet resources 535planning information

534-5travel seasons 534

Siliguri 490-3silk 269, 699, 1151-2silver jewellery 1149Sinhagad 806Sino-Indian War 1122Sinquerim 827Sirhind 223Sirpur 679Sivasagar 570skiing

Auli 436Gulmarg 274, 275Joshimath 435Manali 307, 311

sloth bears 50, 1167Bandipur National Park

880Biligiri Ranganna Temple

Wildlife Sanctuary 882Corbett Tiger Reserve

438Dandeli 905Daroji Sloth Bear

Sanctuary 903Kumbhalgarh Wildlife

Sanctuary 168Mt Abu 171Parambikulam Wildlife

Sanctuary 976

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1241In

DeX S-T

Rajaji National Park 423Tadoba-Andhari Tiger

Reserve 793slums 740Smith Island 1101snakes 1167snorkelling, see diving &

snorkellingsnow leopards

Padmaja Naidu Himalayan zoological Park 498

Govind Wildlife Sanctuary National Park 434

Himalayan zoological Park 539

Namdapha N ational Park 572

Pin Valley National Park 346

snowboarding, see skiingsoccer 1129Sohra 590-1Solang Nullah 317-18solo travellers 1177Somnath 712-13Somnathpur 880Sonamarg 266-7Spangmik 255spas 40-1

Delhi 76, 77Puri 607

spice farmsAndaman Islands 1091Goa 826Kodagu (Coorg) region

884Kumily 970

spices (buying) 1154spirituality, see religionSpiti 339-40, 342-8sport 1128-9Sravanabelagola 886-7Sri Guru Nanak Ji

Gurdwara 303Sri Kalahasti 940Srinagar 267-74, 268Srirangapatnam 879-80St Francis Xavier 1115St Mary’s High School 460St Thomas Mount 1014St Thomas the Apostle 1110Stakna 246statues, see monuments &

statuesStok 246street food 1141stupa architecture

1162

stupasAmaravathi 938Chaukhandi Stupa 402Dhamekh Stupa 402Gomang Stupa 231Kench Chorgi Lorde 557Kolhua Complex 522Nagarjunakonda 931Ramabhar Stupa 405Sanchi 650-4, 652, 1164Sankaram 935-6Shanti Stupa 231, 605Vishwashanti Stupa 529

Sukh Mahal 150Sukhna Lake 205Sultanbatheri 996Sumur 254Sunauli 406-7Surajkund 212Surat 702surfing 894, 955, 1102, 1208Suru Valley 262Swargdwar 607synagogues

BethEl Synagogue 459Keneseth Eliyahoo

Synagogue 739Moghan David

Synagogue 459Neveh Shalome

Synagogue 459Pardesi Synagogue 980Parur 991

TTabo 346-7Taglang La 249Tagore’s House 460-1tahrs 976Taj Mahal 10, 354-8, 359,

11, 356-7best viewpoints 361

Taj Mahal Palace (Mumbai) 736

Tajin people 573Takthog 247-8Talatalghar 570-1Tamil Nadu 54, 1003-83,

1005accommodation 1003,

1004climate 1003festivals 1004food 1004highlights 1005internet resources 1004planning information

1003-4travel seasons 1003

Tanjore, see ThanjavurTaragarh 150, 333Tashiding 556-7Tashijong 333Tattapani 292Tawang Valley 577taxes 1179taxis 1199tea (buying) 1154tea estates 502, 12

Happy Valley Tea Estate 499

Kausani Tea Estate 447Kumily 970Makaibari 494Munnar 973

teak trees 976Tegar 254telephone services 18,

1188-90Temi 550temple accommodation

1180temple architecture 1160-4,

1160-4temples 20, 638-9, 1160,

see also Buddhist temples, Hindu temples, Jain temples, Sikh temples

Ajanta 788-90, 789, 17Akshardham Temple 75-6Badami cave temples

905-6Bahai House of Worship

73-4Bhalka Tirth 711Chhatarpur Mandir 74-5Elephanta Island 745-8Ellora 785-7, 787Glass Temple 387Jhandewalan Hanuman

temple 97Kandariya-Mahadev 16Karni Mata Temple 199motorcycle temple 183Om Bana Temple 183Sree Vallabha Temple 969Sri Kalahasteeswara

Temple 940Tamil Nadu 1029Temple of Rats 199Yogini Temple 605Yungdrung Kundrakling

550tempos 1199tennis 1129tetanus 1205textiles 1152-3Tezpur 566-7

Than 728Thanesar, see KurukshetraThanggu 548Thanjavur 1048-51, 1050theft 1175Theosophical Society

1013-14theyyam 999Thiksey 247Thiruvananthapuram 944-9,

946Tholpetty 996Thotlakonda 935Thrissur 991-3, 992Tia 257-8Tibet

border crossings 544Dalai Lama 317, 330Namgyal Institute of

Tibetology 538Norbulingka Institute

331Tibetan Children’s

Village 322Tibetan exiles 330Tibetan government 321Tibetan Medical &

Astrological Institute (Men-Tsee-Khang) 321

Tibetan Refugee Self-Help Centre 498

Tibetan Children’s Village 322

Tibetan Medical & Astrological 321

Tibetan medicine 316Tibetan wolves 498tigers 626, 677, 880, 1165,

1166Bandhavgarh National

Park 676Biligiri Ranganna Temple

Wildlife Sanctuary 882

Corbett Tiger Reserve 438-40

environmental issues 132Kanha National Park

674-6Mudumalai Tiger Reserve

1082Nagarhole National

Park 881Namdapha National

Park 572Nandankanan zoological

Park 603Parambikulam Wildlife

Sanctuary 976Pench Tiger Reserve

678-9

1242

InDeX T-U

tigers continuedProject Tiger 1166Rajaji National Park 423Ranthambhore National

Park 147-8Royal Bengal tigers 131,

485, 793, 12Sariska Tiger Reserve

132-3Satkosia Tiger Reserve

604Satpura Tiger Reserve

657Similipal National Park

602Sunderbans Tiger

Reserve 485-6Tadoba-Andhari Tiger

Reserve 793white tigers 603, 874

Tikjuk 550-1time 18, 1190Timishgan 257-8tipping 1185-6Tiruchirappalli, see TrichyTirumala 938-40Tirupathi 938-40Tiruvannamalai 1034-6Toda people 1076toilets 1190tombs, shrines &

mausoleumsAkbar’s Mausoleum 360Badshah Tomb 267Bahmani Tombs 911Charnock, Job 457Chhoti Dargah 522Chini-ka-Rauza 360Choukhandi 911Dargah of Khwaja

Muin-ud-din Chishti 138Eklakhi Mausoleum 489Golgumbaz 907-8Gumbaz 879Gupta cave shrines 654-5Hoshang’s Tomb 669Humayun’s Tomb 68Itimad-ud-Daulah 360KV Paradise 583-4Mah Laqa Bai 918-19Mahabat Maqbara 716Mausoleum of Ahmed

Shah 692Mausoleum of Sher

Shah 524Paigah Tombs 917-18

Pir Dastgir Sahib 268Qutb Shahi Tombs 917Raja’s Tombs 883Ram Rai Darbar 412Safdarjang’s Tomb 73Shaikh Salim Chishti 369Sri Guru Nanak Ji

Gurdwara 303St Francis mausoleum 824Taj Mahal 10, 354-8, 359,

361, 11, 356-7Tomb of Tansen 626Vaishno Devi Shrine 279

Top Station 977tourist information 1190tours 1201-2, see also boat

trips, jeep safarisinternet resources 1202motorcycle tours 466,

1201Northeast States 564train travel 35walking tour Jaipur 114walking tour Mumbai 750

touts 1175Towers of Silence 1136train travel 1202-3, see also

mountain railwaysbooking information 34-5classes 34railway retiring rooms 1180reservations 1203transporting bicycles

1196Tranquebar 1046travel to/from India 1192-5travel within India 1195-203travellers cheques 1186tree trunk, fossilised 1077trekking 23, 25, 36-7

Almora 445Bengaluru 861Bharmour 339Chamba 337Cotigao Wildlife

Sanctuary 849Curzon Trail 434-5Darcha 264Gangotri 431-2Gangtok 539Gaumukh Glacier 431-2Hamta Pass 314Har-ki-Dun Valley 434Havelock Island 1093Himalaya, the 36-7, 434-

5, 556-7Jamdar Glacier 434Josimath 434Kalimpong 510

Kauri Pass 434-5Khangchendzonga 554,

556-7, 556Kodagu (Coorg) region

883Ladakh 228-9Lahaul 341Leh 235Leh region 248-50Manali 307, 311Maredumilli 936McLeod Ganj 323-4McLeod Ganj to

Bharmour 324Milam Glacier 435Mt Abu 171Mussoorie 417Naggar 306Nilgiris hills 1078Northeast States 589Pindari Glacier 435Pin-Parvati Valley 302Rishikesh 425-7Saddle Peak 1101Satpura Tiger Reserve

657Sikkim 537, 554, 555Singalila Ridge 506-7tea estates 973Uttarakhand 431-2,

434-5, 437Wayanad Wildlife

Sanctuary 996West Bengal 485zanskar 228-9, 263

tribal people, see indigenous people

Trichur, see ThrissurTrichy 1051-6, 1054, 1056Trimbak 780Tripunithura 991Tripura 584-7Trivandrum 944-9, 946Tso Moriri Loop 255-6Tsokha 556Tsopta Valley 548Tsuglagkhang Complex 320tuberculosis (TB) 1205, 1207Tughlaq, Mohammed 1112Tughlaqabad 103Tulsibani 602Tumlong 546Tungnath 437Tuophema 580turtles 613, 614, 829, 1101Turtuk 253-4Tuting 576TV 1179typhoid 1205, 1208

UUdaipur (Rajasthan)

157-68, 158accommodation 162-4activities 161courses 161-2drinking 165-6entertainment 166festivals 162food 164-5internet access 166medical services 166shopping 166sights 157-61travel to/from 166-8travel within 167-8

Udaipur (Northeast States) 586-7

Udayagiri 619Udhagamandalam,

see OotyUdipi, see UdupiUdupi 892-3Ujjain 659-61, 660-1Uletokpo 258Unesco World Heritage

sites, see World Heritage sites

University of Mumbai 737-8Untouchables, see DalitsUpper Dharamsala,

see McLeod GanjUpshi 248Ursi 259-60Uttar Pradesh 50, 349-407,

352-3accommodation 349,

350climate 349festivals 350food 349, 350highlights 352-3internet resources 350planning information

349-50travel seasons 349

Uttarakhand 50, 408-49, 410

accommodation 409climate 408, 411festivals 409food 409highlights 410internet resources

409planning information

408-9travel seasons 408

Uttarkashi 433Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1243In

DeX V-Y

vvacations 1187-8vaccinations 1204, 1205Vadodara 699-702, 700Vagator 837-40, 838Vaishali 522Valiyaparamba 1000Valley of Flowers 436-7Van Gujjar people 423Vanakbara 709Varanasi 388-402, 390,

394, 17accommodation 395-8activities 392-3courses 393-5drinking 399-400food 398-9internet access 401medical services 401shopping 400sights 389-92tourist information 401tours 395travel to/from 401-2travel within 402volunteering 393

Varca 848varicella 1205Varkala 954-8, 955, 890Vasco da Gama 1114Vashisht 316-17Vattakanal 1070Vedas, the 1108Vedh Shala 659-60Veerayatan 529vegetarian travellers

1139-40Vellore 1033-4Veraval 711-12Viceregal Lodge 285Victoria Memorial 453-4Victoria Terminus 737, 15video systems 1179Vidisha 654Vijayanagar empire 1113Vijayawada 936-7vikrams 1199vineyards 779Viper Island 1090Visakhapatnam 933-5visas 18, 1191Vishnu 1130Vivekananda House 1011volunteering 42-5

Delhi 78Goa 847Kanchipuram 1032Kolkata 465

Mapusa 827McLeod Ganj 324Mumbai 749Puri 607Varanasi 393West Bengal 494

Vrindavan 374, 375

Wwalking, see trekkingWandoor 1093Wanla 259Warangal 932Wat Thai Complex 405-6 water, drinking 1172, 1209water resources 1172waterfalls

Abbi Falls 883Apsara Vihar 657Barheipani Waterfall 602Bee Falls 655Bhimlat Waterfall 150Bundla Gorge 333Chitrakote Falls 683Duchess Falls 655-7Dudhsagar Falls 845Jog Falls 893Joranda Waterfall 602Khangchendzonga 553Nohkalikai Falls 591Panchuli Kund 657Phamrong Falls 553Rajat Prapat 657Raneh Falls 644Rimbi 553Satpura National Park

655Seven Sisters Waterfall

546Vasudhara Waterfall 433Whisper Wave waterfalls

1102weather, see climateweaving 667, 719

Kachchh 726Panchachuli Weavers

Factory 445websites, see internet

resourcesweights 1179West Bengal 51, 482-513,

484accommodation 482,

483climate 482drinking 482, 483festivals 483food 483highlights 484

internet resources 483planning information

482-3travel seasons 482

West Bengal Hills 490-513, 506

Western Ghats (Kerala) 969-77

Western Ghats (Tamil Nadu) 1067-83

white tigersMysore zoo 874Nandankanan zoological

Park 603Wildflower Hall 292wildlife, see animals;

national parks, reserves & wildlife sanctuaries; wildlife safaris; plants

wildlife safaris 12, 23, see also camel safaris, elephant rides & safaris

Bandipur National Park 880

Cotigao Wildlife Sanctuary 849

Lion Safari Park 949Mumbai 748Neyyar Wildlife

Sanctuary 949Ranthambhore National

Park 147-8Sasan Gir Wildlife

Sanctuary 713Satkosia Gorge

Sanctuary 604Satpura Tiger Reserve 657

wildlife sanctuaries, see national parks, reserves & wildlife sanctuaries

Wildlife Society of Odisha 614

wine 1143, 1145wineries 779wolves 498women in India 1106,

1126-8women travellers 1176-7women’s health 1210woodcarvings 1153-4World Heritage sites 902-7

Airavatesvara Temple 1052

Ajanta 788-90, 789, 17Champaner 702-3Chhatrapati Shivaji

Terminus (Victoria Terminus) 737, 15

Darjeeling Himalayan Railway 501

Elephanta Island 745-8Ellora 785-8

Hampi 896-902Jantar Mantar (Jaipur)

109-10Keoladeo Ghana National

Park 129Kumbakonam 1047Mahabodhi Temple 524,

638Nalanda 530Nilgiri Biosphere Reserve

1076Ooty mountain railway

1082Pavagadh 702-3Sun Temple (Konark) 611Sunderbans Tiger

Reserve 485-6Tabo Gompa 346

YYamunotri 431Yangthang 257Yapola Gorge 260Yapola Valley 259-60yoga courses 39-40

Bengaluru 861Bodhgaya 526Delhi 79, 80Goa 814, 830, 834, 836,

840, 849Kerala 950Khajuraho 641Kolkata 465Leh 233-4, 235Lonavla 798Maharashtra 774Mamallapuram 1027McLeod Ganj 321, 325Mumbai 737, 751Mysore 876Orchha 629Puducherry 1039-40Pune 802Pushkar 143Rishikesh 424-5Tamil Nadu 1074Thiruvananthapuram

945Varanasi 393Varkala 954, 955Vashisht 316

yoga festivals 409, 1004Yousmarg 274-5Yuksom 554-5Yume Samdong (zero

Point) 547Yumthang Valley 547Yungdrung Kundrakling 550Yurutse 249

1244

InDeX z

Zzangla 264zanskar 262-4zero Point

(Yume Samdong) 547zingchen 248zingzingbar 249

zip lining 175, 441ziro Valley 573-4zoos

Himalayan zoological Park 539

Kolkata 464Mysore zoo 874

Nandankanan zoological Park 603-5

National zoological Gardens 72

Padmaja Naidu Himalayan zoological Park 498

Sakkarbaug zoo 716-17

Thiruvananthapuram 944

zorbing 311zoroastrianism 1136

Map Pages 000Photo Pages 000

1222

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OUR READERS Many thanks to the travellers who used the last edition and wrote to us with help-ful hints, useful advice and interesting anecdotes: A Claire Ahern, Frey Albert, Earl Almeida, Ruben Alonso, Naama Anabell, Margaret Andrews, Jeevan Asad B Miriam Baigorri, Harriet Ball, Joanna Balon, Gaia Barbato, Jean-luc Bargetzi, Vaskor Basak, Silvia Beccacece, Sophie Beck-with, Barbara Beun, Jennifer Black, Wendy Braak, Angela Bracegirdle, Roy Bradford, Mark Brennan, Jason Brewer, Gemma Briggs, Allen Brown, Katherine Brown, Marcia Browne, Bill Burdett, Paul Buxton C Richard Cabeza, Mette Cecilie Norholm, Ruff Cecillia, David Chambers, Nigel Chin, Samantha Choma, Neeraj Chowdhary, Sam Crisp, Ulrich Chris-tensen, Mark Clifton, Nicola Cole, Valeria Corridori, Fiorenza Corte, Kirsty Cunningham D Sockhy Da Silva, Fiona Darcy, Robin De Ruiter & Inge Klaver, Vincenzo Del Re, Paulo Derela, Desset family, Abhishek Dhoot, Brett Dixon, Anne Dobson, Maegan Dobson, Emma Dayan E Bat El Nir, Ed Elberfeld, Robert Elliott, Maya Enabell, Pascal Endstra F Lisa Feldman, Leslie Fernandez, Grand Florence, Jon Foreman, Markus Franke, Toby & Inbal Frankenstein, Sarah Fulham G Eve Gage, Ewa Gembicka, Johannes Gergely, Debjit Ghosh, Adam Green, Kim Grossman, Matthew Grove, Pala Gulamnabi

H Peter Halford, Sarah Hallas-møller, Lis Ham-mer, Emma Harding, Luke Harding, Roy Hartling, Alisha Hawrylyszyn, Brian Heatley, Gerard Helmink, Murielle Henri, Rüdiger Hess, Shanny Hill, Suzan Hughes, Andre Huguet I Ben Ireland, Alicia Irwin, Caro Iuel J Ajay Jain, Mike John-son K Yoshihiro Kaburagi, Birgit Kaider, Bram Kampschreur, Farah Karachiwala, Ewa & Magda Kaszynska, Nina Kenny, Ursula Krebs, Eva Kuijer, Pratik Kulkarni, Karthik Kumar, Parveen Kumar L Jan Lampe, Kristin Larkin, Todd Larue, Bill Lennox, Chantelle L’Heureux, Sam-uel Lickiss, Óscar López, Pam E Low, Melanie Luangsay, Marit Lucas M Jernej Markelj, Brian Mathias, Michael McKay, Michiel Meijs, Janneke Mekken, Liza Mendal, Marcos Mendonca, Sheila Miller, Ben Misterka, Tapabrata Mitra, Sandeep Moonka, Kate Morgan, Julie & Cameron Muir, Hannah Musisi N Lise Nadai, Shoaban Nair, Malcolm Noden O Redmond O’ Shea, Ilona O`Beirne, Roderick O’Brien, Nikos Oikonomou, Josu Ozkaritz P Kevin Paige, Hitesh Pant, Martina Parizkova, Pintu Patel, Mike Pearson, Garry Pedder, Marisa Pettit, Kevin Pitter, Martin Platter, Colburne Poapst R ME Rade-maker, Radha Rajan, Shashi Ranjan, Clair Ricketts, Liz Rideal, Gulsah Robertson, Andrea Roessler, Jessica Rose, Christopher Rowland S Greg Sandford, Kalle Sankala, Anna Sauer, Wendy Saunders, Astrid Schaap-Vermolen, Werner Schmid, Ivri Schneider, Uwe Scholz, Hannah Shanks, Mahendra Singh,

SEND US YOUR FEEDBACK We love to hear from travellers – your comments keep us on our toes and help make our books better. Our well-travelled team reads every word on what you loved or loathed about this book. Although we cannot reply individually to postal submissions, we always guarantee that your feedback goes straight to the appropriate authors, in time for the next edition. Each person who sends us information is thanked in the next edition – the most useful submissions are rewarded with a selection of digital PDF chapters.

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Behind the Scenes

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Mannu Singh, Rajendra Singh, Sandeep Singh, Vijendra Singh, Lisa Smeets, John P Smith, Pooja Somaia, Josefine Stare, Robert Stirling, Salila Sukumaran, Jaewon Sun, Mahaveer Swami T Subash Tamang, Virág Tarnai, Finn Teylor, Heather Thoreau, Hannah Timmis, Anniger Tosse, Maureen Traughber U Johanna Unger, Scott Urbach V Bas Van Der Heide, Niki Van Turenhout, Veronique Verlinden, Simon Paul Vernon, Tom Verschraege, K Vijayakrishnan, Swami Vishwananda W Katherien Walker, Sarah J Walsh, Robert Wenzel, Rob Wiemer, Suzie Williams, Emma Worsham, Rolf Wrelf, Sarah Wursthorn Y Sue Yarrow, Emily Young, Tina Yu Z Adam Zbiejczuk, Scott Zinski

AUTHOR THANKS Sarina SinghA big thank you to everyone at Lonely Planet – with special mention to Suzannah and Brigitte – who worked so hard on this book. Gratitude, also, to the many readers across the world who took the time to write to us. Finally, warm thanks to the fantastic team of authors – you made this edition a delight for me to coordinate.

Michael BenanavHuge thanks go to Lalji, Neeta, Sonal, Ashwin and their families, for their hospitality and insights into all things Gujarati. In Uttarakhand, I’d like to thank Debopam and Manto for help-ing me get beneath the surface of the state. My time in Kachchh wouldn’t have been nearly as fun without my ‘sister’ Jessica. And my deepest gratitude goes to Kelly and Luke, who gracefully dealt with a number of challenges back home while I was on the road.

Joe BindlossThanks firstly to Linda and Tyler for tagging along for the ride and putting up with the time I was away from home. In Delhi, thanks to the hospitable Sadia Dehlvi for providing a home away from home, and for offering the inside track on life as a Delhi-ite. Thanks also to Mayank Austen Soofi for invaluable tips and insights.

Lindsay BrownI am very grateful for the assistance of vari-ous hotel managers, travel desks and tourism centres for putting up with all my questions. I would particularly like to thank Homi in Mumbai, coordinating author Sarina Singh, fellow traveller and Kingfisher fancier Stephen Nichol son, and Jenny, Pat and Sinead at home.

Mark ElliottMany thanks to Rajesh, Mowgli and the gang, Rouf, Namgyal and family, Jai, Bunny and

family, Mohd-Ali and Selim, Sharif, Abbas, Mirza, Sunny, Kaga and Amid the stone-savers, Jeannie and Yuruzu, Anirban, Shahdid and Lehaj, Yuka, Dave Davies, Harald Schaffer, Eitan and Inbar, Hossein in Turtuk, Grant Win-ter for fixing my neck, Barbara, Bijoo, Nawang; and not forgetting inspiring fellow travellers Birgit, Pika, Steve, Brenbo and sister Jane. Eternal thanks as ever to my beloved parents.

Paul HardingThanks to the many lovely people in Kerala and Goa who helped with tips, advice and a drink or two. In particular Debra, Johnson, Shibu, Niaz, Philip and Maryann, Suresh, Varghese and Beena, Walter, Ajit, Jack and family. But mostly thanks to Hannah and my beautiful daughter, Layla, who made Goa so much more enjoyable.

Trent Holden & Kate MorganFirst up thanks to Suzannah and Glenn for commissioning us to work on our dream book again. Cheers also to Sarina for her great work in piecing this together. In the Andamans, a massive thanks to all who helped out with tips and assistance in or-ganising ferry schedules etc. Big sing out to Steve, too, for his trailblazing efforts. While in Karnataka we’re also indebted to those who helped us get around and for all the leads and feedback.

Amy KarafinI’m deeply grateful to the people of Andhra Pradesh and Bombay for all their help and for making such interesting places. Special thanks to Sandhya Kanneganti, Ram Babu, Jayasri Anand and Gayatri, Taps and Devi Vasireddy, Dr Kishore and Sandeep Kishore, Asif Husain Arastu, Saaz Aggarwal, Malini and Hari Hariharan, Akash Bhartiya, Surekha and Manik Bhartiya, Naresh Fernandes, Mujju, Satish Asi, Sarina Singh, Suzannah Shwer, Brigitte Ellemor, and everyone at Dhamma Khetta, Dhamma Vijaya and the Global Pagoda. Bhavatu sabba mangalam!

Anirban MahapatraSincerest thanks to CEs Suzannah Shwer and Glenn van der Knijff for allowing me – once again – the privilege of exploring this crazy, quirky and wonderful country on assignment. To the entire team at Lonely Planet, for their unfailing support and encouragement through thick and thin. To Sarina Singh and all my fellow authors – together we stand! To Oken, Sange, Katu, Dr Kano, Raj, Neil, Suzanne, Rintu, Boo, Monjit, Jyoti, Lee, Babul, Krishna and Sang for their help, support and hospitality along the way. And finally, to my family and friends for standing by me. Beers for all!

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1224Bradley MayhewMany thanks to Rajah Bannerjee and Ravindra Kang in Kurseong; to Norbu-la and Sangay-la in Darjeeling; and to Norden in Kalimpong for taking me on some wonderful day hikes in the region. In Chamba thanks to Prakash Dhami for some fascinating conversations, and in Jiri thanks to the Negi brothers for trekking information. Many thanks to fellow scribe Virginia Jealous for her generous help and tips in Shimla and around. Cheers as always to Andre for yet another great trek through Zanskar and to Mervyn Mitchell for joining us through Spiti. Most of all thanks to Kelli, for everything.

Daniel McCrohanThanks to colleagues Abigail Hole and John Noble for great tips. In Jaipur, Mr and Mrs Singh were fabulous hosts. I’m indebted to Sunny Gaur and his trusty moped for saving me from the Jodhpur touts, and to Gouri for his enthusiasm in Bikaner. Thanks also to Lois Mason and Veronica Gledhill Hall for help in Jaisalmer. Mostly, though, thank you to my wonderful mum, my darling wife and our incredible children for being brave enough to join me on this latest adventure.

John NobleExtra special thanks to super-efficient research assistant and perfect travelling companion Isabella Noble; Ashish Gupta and colleagues; V Rangaraj Pillai; the Chennai

autorickshaw driver who insisted on a fare lower than I offered; and, during write-up, to Coley, Hilary, Josh and Nala for the witty conversation, and to Jack for meals in the home stretch.

Kevin RaubFirst and foremost, thanks to my wife, Adriana Schmidt Raub, who doesn’t appreciate the subcontinent with quite the same fervour as hubby, but does love a tandoor. At Lonely Planet, thanks to Glenn van der Knijff, Suzan-nah Shwer, Sarina Singh and Daniel Mc-Crohan. On the road, thank you Mini-Google, Ramesh and Anil Wadhwa, Sanghamitra Jena, Bubu Yugabrata, Pankaj Bhatnagar, Michael Schmid, Nicole Seregni, Naheed Varma, Gua-tam Kumar Singh, Kamalakanta Samal, Clau-dia Günther and Prasanna Kumar Sahoo.

ACKNOWLEDGMENTSClimate map data adapted from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated World Map of the Köppen-Geiger Climate Classification’, Hydrology and Earth System Sciences, 11, 1633-44.

Cover photograph: Women drying saris with views of the Taj Mahal, Agra, Uttar Pradesh/Gavin Hellier/AWL.

Illustrations p1160, p1162, p1164 by Kelli Hamblet; p370, p872 by Michael Weldon; p62, p356, p636 by Javier Zarracina.

THIS BOOK This 15th edition of Lonely Planet’s India guidebook was researched and written by Sarina Singh (coordinating author), Michael Benanav, Joe Bindloss, Lindsay Brown, Mark Elliott, Paul Harding, Trent Holden, Amy Karafin, Anirban Mahapatra, Bradley Mayhew, Daniel McCrohan, Kate Morgan, John Noble and Kevin Raub.This guidebook was commis-sioned in Lonely Planet’s Mel-bourne office, and produced by the following:

Commissioning Editors Glenn Van der Knijff, Suzannah ShwerCoordinating Editor Gina TsarouhasSenior Cartographer David KempCoordinating LayoutDesigner Mazzy PrinsepManaging Editors Brigitte Ellemor, Annelies MertensManaging Cartographer Adrian PersogliaManaging Layout Designer Jane HartAssisting Editors Nigel Chin, Adrienne Costanzo, Andrea Dobbin, Carly Hall, Kate James, Elizabeth Jones, Helen Koehne, Shawn Low,

Susan Paterson, Ross Taylor, Jeanette WallAssisting Cartographers Enes Basic, Jeff Cameron, Xavier Di Toro, Julie DodkinsAssisting Layout Designer Wibowo RusliCover Research Naomi ParkerInternal Image Research Kylie McLaughlinLanguage Content Branislava VladisavljevicThanks to Anita Banh, Ryan Evans, Larissa Frost, Errol Hunt, Genesys India, Laura Jane, Andi Jones, Jouve India, Stephen Palmer, Trent Paton, Kerrianne Southway, Gerard Walker, Amanda Williamson

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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