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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors 2008 Industrial engineering It deals with the creation and management of systems that integrate people, materials, information and energy in productive ways. It draws up on the principles and methods of engineering analysis and synthesis, as well as mathematics, physical and social sciences. This department works to eliminate waste of time, money, material, energy, and other resources. Concepts of industrial engineering This term industrial engineering is composed of two words which gives the basic concept of industrial engineering (I.E). Industrial means related to industry, which means a process of production or a complete process of converting input resources into useful products or services (depending upon nature of industry). Input resources output /product Engineering may be defined as the profession in which knowledge of mathematical, physical, and social sciences obtained by experience and practice is utilized economically for the conversion of materials into useful products for the benefit of mankind. Mainly industrial engineering department perform the following activities in garment industry:- Work study Garment layout Target setting Line balancing TEXTILE AND APPAREL INDUSTRY INSTITUTE PROJECT (TAI) Page 1 Conversion technique/producti on or processing equipment

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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

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Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors

Industrial engineeringIt deals with the creation and management of systems that integrate people, materials, information and energy in productive ways. It draws up on the principles and methods of engineering analysis and synthesis, as well as mathematics, physical and social sciences. This department works to eliminate waste of time, money, material, energy, and other resources. Concepts of industrial engineeringThis term industrial engineering is composed of two words which gives the basic concept of industrial engineering (I.E). Industrial means related to industry, which means a process of production or a complete process of converting input resources into useful products or services (depending upon nature of industry).Conversion technique/production or processing equipment

Input resources output /productEngineering may be defined as the profession in which knowledge of mathematical, physical, and social sciences obtained by experience and practice is utilized economically for the conversion of materials into useful products for the benefit of mankind.Mainly industrial engineering department perform the following activities in garment industry:- Work study Garment layout Target setting Line balancing1. Work study 1.1 Objective Find the best way of doing a work /to improve efficiency using fewer resources in an activity and yet getting the same result or using the same resource to get better result with lesser cost than the existing one.

To standardized the best methodIn the absence of work standards specifying the daily output in the case of each worker and an identifiable relationship output and wages may become difficult. Economy to human effort and reduction of fatigue/ to ensure reduce the number of labor on every job.1.2 DefinitionsIt is combination of several techniques which can be applied to all kinds of efficiency problems, including labor productivity problems. Work study is concerned with discovering the best ways of doing jobs and with establishing standards based up on such work. It includes analytic investigation of the methods, conditions and effectiveness of industrial work, and thereby the determination of the ways in which human efforts may most economically be applied. The important techniques for work study are:- method study time study and work measurement motion and fatigue study 1.3. Method studyMethod study is the systematic study of methods, recording and critical examination of existing and proposed ways of doing work in order to develop and apply easier and more effective methods and reduce costs. The basic steps and method studies are:- selection of the job to be studied Recording of the details of the job and the methods employed to perform it. Critical examination Identification and development of possible improvement Development of the improve method 1.3.1. SelectionNot all industrial activities need to be selected for the method study. Select the most important activity which improved could result in substantial benefits. Some example of good selection in garment field could be:

Embroidery activities Spreading: - the nature of the activity is highly repetitive. Efficiency of spreader has great influence on the production of garment industry. Cutting: - the work is highly repetitive and fatigue, it also causes machine down time. Sewing: - the work needs relatively a high skilled labor and it requires large number of workers. The production of garment unit is highly influenced by sewing section. Finishing activities 1.3.2. Recording:-Record all the relevant facts of the present or proposed method by observation or analysis.Recording is a key activities and many activity and many sophisticated techniques have been developed for it. Various charts are used to record the activities precisely, continently and for understanding and analysis.1.3.3. Critical examinationCritical examination is the motive force to develop a new method within the limits. The success of method study lies in making a critical examination. The questions to be asked are: what, why, how, when, where and who. The governing factors are purpose, means, sequence, place and person The questions to be asked can be divided into three categories: Primary questions: deals with facts and reasons Secondary questions: deals with finding out the alternatives Final questions: deals with the implication of different alternatives, and select few alternatives for developmentPrimary questionsPurposeWhat is actually done?Why is the activity necessary?Eliminate unnecessary parts of the job.

placeWhere is it being done?Why is it done at that particular place?Combine wherever possible or rearrange sequence of operation

sequenceWhen is it done?Why is it done at that particular time?

meansHow is it being done?Why is it done in that particular way?Simplify the operation

Secondary question are asked in the same manner at above with suitable changes/modification to determine the possible alternatives of place, sequence, persons and/or means- in order to improve the existing method.Final questions deals similarly with the alternative ways of doing the work obtained from secondary questions. Develop the most practical, economical and effective method considering all the circumstances. Define the new method Install the new method as standard practice Maintain the standard practice by regular /routine checks. 1.3.6. Develop the improved methodPractically reviews the new method to test its viability in the change circumstances. Method study will provide the maximum benefit when it is conducted at the planning stage itself i.e. before the plant or machinery is installed. 1.4. Motion study.Method study was explained in detail which deals with large operation. In contrast to this micro motion study deals with the operations of the following nature. Operation short in cycle. Highly repetitive( thousands of time in short duration ) Involve quick hand motion.The best examples of operation suited for micro motion study in garment industry is; sewing, it is carried out manually, greatly depending on man power. This means that difference in motion level of operators will directly affect the time value.During manual work the human movements divides in to the following elements SearchSearch begins when the eye or hands begins to hunt for the object, and ends when the desired object has been located SelectSelect refers to the choice of an object from several. GraspIt refers hold of an object closing the fingers around it preparatory to picking it up.Grasp begins when the hand or fingers first make contact with the object, and ends when the hand has obtained control of it. Transport loadIt refers to letting go off the object and it begins when the object starts to leave the hand and ends when the object has been completely separated from the hand or fingers. PositionPut the object in the appropriate place. AssemblePut together/ combine the respective objects DisassembleSeparate the objects which are assembled before InspectCheck the quality of the object as per the specification. Release loadIt refers to lifting of an object. It begins when the object starts to leave the hand and ends when the object has been completely separated from hand or fingers. Transport emptyIt refers to moving the empty hand in reaching for an object. It is assumed that the hand moves without resistance to wards or away from the object. Avoidable delayIt is the time consumed by the worker due to his/her carelessness and other factors. Unavoidable delayIt is the ideal time which is caused due to the nature of work itselfEach and every human activity should be analyzed according to the above elements 1.4.1. Principles of motion economyA worker while carrying out a task uses a number of motions or movements of body parts.A careful examination of these motions may bring out the following:

Unnecessary movements A certain motions can be combined/ modified by changing their sequence Certain motion can be simplified by changing the work place lay out. Certain motions can be carried out more efficiently by other parts of the body. The study of an operation in terms of individual motion of worker performing the operation is known as motion analysis. Fatigue can be reduced by following the principle of motion economy. Motion economy and fatigue reduction can be grouped under three categories. Use of human body. Arrangement of work place. Design of tools and equipments.1.4.1.1. Use of human body The two hands should being and complete their movements at the same time. The two hands should not be idle at the same time except during period of rest Motion of the arms should be symmetrical and opposite directions and should be made simultaneously. Hand and body motions should be made at the lost classification at which it is possible to do the work satisfactorily. General classifications of hand motions are as follows:- - Finger motions (lowest level) - Finger+ wrist - Finger +wrist +forearm - Finger +wrist +forearm +upper arm - Finger +wrist +forearm +upper arm +shoulder (highest level) Smooth continuous motions of the hands are preferable to zigzag motions or straight line motions involving sudden and sharp changes in direction. Rhythm is essential to the automatic performance of repetitive operations. The work should be arranged to permit easy and natural rhythm whenever possible. Work should be arranged so that eye movements are confined to comfortable without the need for frequent changes of focus.

1.4.1.2. Arrangement of work place. Definite and fixed places should be provided for all tools and materials for habit formation. Tools and materials should be repositioned to reduce searching. Gravity feed bins and containers should be used to deliver the materials and as close to the point of use as possible. Tools, materials and controls should be located within the maximum working area and as near to the worker as possible to allow hand motions of lower classification and eye movements without frequent change of focus. Materials and tools should be arranged to permit the best sequence of motions. Drop deliveries of or ejectors should be used whenever possible so that the worker does not have to use his hands to dispose of the finished work. Provision should be made for adequate lighting and a chair of the type and height to permit good posture. The height of the work place and seat should be arranged to allow alternative sitting and standing. The color of the work place should contrast with that of the work to reduce eye fatigue. 1.4.1.3. Design of tools and equipments The hand should be relived of the work of holding the work piece by suitable devices, like passing materials. Two or more tools should be combined where ever possible 1.4.2 Consideration of allowance (idle) in time study Personal allowance Personal need Fatigue allowance Delay allowance Material defect Power interruption.

1.5. Time study and work measurementTime study is defined as a work measurement techniques designed to establish the time for a qualified worker to carry out specified elements under specified conditions at a defined rate of working recoded by direct observations of the times, using time measuring device and the rating for individual elements. The method used for timing will depend on the volume and frequency of the task, the cycle time of the operation and the cost of timing; stopwatch should be used to measure each element. The study requires splitting up of a job into a number of parts to know how long it takes each of the different workers engaged there to perform it. This will help not only in fixing responsibility in respect of each part of the job, but also in determining standard timing for different parts of the job.The processing time exists simply because the process requires tasks and motion. To put it in a different way, the working method and the number of work component s are closely related to the net processing time. The time study begins by measuring the number of seconds required to lift, sew and place something .it then proceeds to making improvements based on the time values, and ends by defining the differences in the time values caused by the individual differences of the worker,Purpose of time study To understand the production capacity of the factory ,to draw up plans for an appropriate target output ,suitable range of divided labor and optimum production (scheduling ,personnel planning or equipment planning ) To investigate the level of individual skill. To determine the time value for each work component under the motion study, which support improvements and standardization. For use as a standard in evaluating the operations. To obtain an evaluation standard for order receiving planning, using the time study as the basis of the cost estimate and control. For use as the basis for determining the unit cost of manufacture and the wage rate. For use as the basis for introducing a production control system.Purpose of work measurement Evaluate a worker performanceThis is done by comparing actual output over a given period of time with the standard output determined by work measurement. Plan workforce needsFor any given level of output, work measurement can be used to determine how much labor input is required. Determine price or cost of a productLabor standards, obtained through work measurement, are ingredient of a costing or pricing system. In most organizations, the successful pricing of products is crucial for survival. This activity, in turn, rests on work measurement whenever cost is a basis of pricing. To determine available capacityFor a given of level of work force, and equipment availability, work measurement standards can be used to project available capacity. Compare work method. When different methods for a job are being considered, work measurement can provide the bases for economic comparison of the methods Facilitate operations scheduling One of the data inputs to all scheduling systems is time estimate for work activities. These time estimates are derived from work measurement. Establish wage incentives Under wage incentives, workers receive more pay for more output. Underlying this incentive plan is a time standard which defines 100% output.1.5.1. SAM (standard allowable minutes) calculation using stop watch)

This is the type of study that develop a standard through observation and analysis of a task using stop watch. To calculate the SAM, we can use either of following methods- follow the Bin Ran or GSD(General Sewing Data ) for the predetermined standards. Or prepare 10 garments with the help of expert operators. While them preparing the garments, chick time using stop watch each operations. While doing this method, initial two to three garments need to do to practice the operations. From fourth garment onwards need to check the timing for each operation. Calculate the average time taken for each operation as the SAM for that particular operation.The equipment needed for SAM study can be:- 1. Stop watch / electronic timer2. Motion picture camera3. Electronic data collector and computer In sewing section the SAM value includes the following operationsA. Pick up and position.B. SewC. RepositionD. Cut threadE. DisposeExample: - Shirt collar attaching operation Time consumed: - Reading1= a Reading 2=b Reading 3=cAverage time = Normal time =x efficiencyStandard time (SAM) = total allowanceThe efficiency factor is calculated from the performance and target achieved by the operator, from skill data and the nature of style features and fabric quality.Total allowance time is the time consumed by the operators during their working hours. This may vary from 4 -7% Production per hour=60/SAM Machine SAMIt is the sum of SAM values of all the operators in that particular style Manual SAMIt is the sum of SAM values of operations being done by helpers Total SAMIt is the sum of SAM values of both machine SAM and manual SAM PRODUCTIVITY It is nothing but it is simply the ratio of output to the input i.e.Productivity/shift=60x8/machine SAM Higher productivity implies that more output is achieved with the same input or the same output is achieved with less input. Operation bulletin sheet for jacket

Front BackS. NoOper. CodeOperationM/CSAMAttachmentOper. reqd.Oper. allottedProdn. Per Hour

101Run stitch neckbandSNLS0.68-----0.78188

202Trim, &Turn neckbandmanual0.37------0.421164

303Press neckband for attachFlat bed press0.40-----0.461149.78

404Mark and re cut neckband for attachmanual0.52-----0.601114.83

505Crease and mark pleats on front pnlx3Flat bed press0.68--------0.78188.33

606Sew pleats on front pnlx3 Normal UBT SNLS0.96-------1.10162.64Compensate with Operator No.3

707Mark front side pnl for welt pkt attachmanual0.62---------0.71197.0

S.NoOper. CodeOperationM/CSAMAttachmentOper. reqd.oper AllottedProdn. Per HourRemark

808Attach pkt bone and pkt bag at frontAuto welt m/c0.64-----0.74193.1

909Turn and tack pkt bone vertically at corners SNLS0.84------0.97171.0

10010Edge stitch on pkt mouthSNLS0.68------0.78188.33

11011Close pkt bagSNLS0.840.97171.0

12012Bind pkt bag all aroundSNLS0.60binder0.69199.5

13013Bind pkt bag at vertical sideSNLS0.36binder0.411168.0

14014Finish binding at cornersSNLS0.76------0.87179.20

15015Top stitch on pocket mouthSNLS0.86---0.99169.6

16016Attach yoke with front side pnlsSNLS0.48-------0.551125

17017Bind front yoke and front side panel SNLS0.31Binder0.361191.4

18018Top stitch on front yoke and front side panelDNLS0.36-----0.411168.0

19019Attach front panel with front side panelDNLS0.68binder0.78188.3

20020Top stitch on front pnl and front side pnlDNLS0.62-----0.71197.0

21021Tack pkt bag at front pnl and front side pnlSNLS0.28-----0.321215.3

22022Attach front and back yoke at shoulderSNLS0.56------0.641107.6

S.NoOper. CodeOperationM/CSAMAttachmentOper. reqd.oper AllottedProdn. Per HourRemark

23023Turn and top stitch on shoulderDNLS0.32-----0.371186.2

24024Stitch on back yoke all roundSNLS0.33-----0.381181.3

25025Crease and mark back pnl for pleats x10Flat bed press0.80----0.92174.9

26026Sew pleats on back pnlx10SNLS1.90----2.18263.2Compensate with Operator No.21

27027Attach back shoulder pnl with back pnlSNLS0.46----0.531130

28028Bind back shoulder pnl with back pnlSNLS0.31Binder0.361191.4

29029Top stitch on shoulder pnl and back pnl jtDNLS0.35-----0.401172.2

30030Close sleeve with the bodyDNLS0.7228mm binder0.83183.0

31031Crease and mark sleeve cuff for attachFlat bed press0.78----0.90176.6

32032Close cuff SNLS0.30-----0.341202.6

33033Attach under cuff at sleeve opening SNLS1.08-----1.24155.6Compensate with Operator No.32

34034Press at sleeve openingFlat bed press0.66-----0.76190.6

35035Close under cuff at sleeve openingDNLS0.68-----0.78188.3

36036Attach front and back pnls at shoulder all aroundSNLS0.88----1.01168.2Compensate with Operator No.34

S.NoOper. CodeOperationM/CSAMAttachmentOper. reqd.oper AllottedProdn. Per HourRemark

37037Bind front and back pnls at shoulder all aroundSNLS0.6028mm binder0.69199.8

38038Press at front and back shoulder all aroundFlat bed press0.64---0.74193.1

39039Top stitch on front and back at shoulder all aroundDNLS0.72----0.83183.0

40040Sew side seam with binding DNLS0.6828mm binder0.78188.3

41041Bind at center front and bottom all aroundSNLS0.9028mm binder1.03166.9Compensate with Operator No.37

42042Top stitch on center front and bottom all aroundDNLS 1.46----1.68141.0Compensate with Operator No.44

43043Attach neck band at neck lineSNLS0.86----0.99169.6

44044Bind neck band with body SNLS0.3228mm binder0.371186.2

45045Press at necklineFlat bed press 0.30----0.451153.1

46046Top stitch on neck lineDNLS0.72----0.83183.0

47047Attach sleeve at arm holeAuto welt m/c0.64----0.74193.1

S.No.Oper. CodeOperationM/CSAMAttachmentOper. Reqd.Oper. AllottedProd.Per HourRemark

48048O/L sleeve at armhole3T O/L0.92------1.06165.0Compensate with Operator No.45

49049Press at arm holeAuto welt m/c0.64----0.74193.1

50050Bar tack at front and back pnls on pleats(6+20)Auto welt m/c0.64------0.74193.1

51051Mark and attach buttons on frontx3Manual 1.08------1.24155.6Compensate with Operator No.49&50

Note: SAM (standard allowable minute) =SMV (standard minute value) =NPT (net production time)Summery

Buyer=ABCStyle desc.=Shirt SBT07Order quantity=1800pcs

Style=Adult shirt. Order No=230806

Type of M/cRequired QuantitySAMType of AttachmentRequired quantityStatus

SNLS2415.39Binder 77

DNLS116.95Binder 33

3-th O/L10.92

Auto welt m/c

10.64

Sleeve setter m/c11.42

Round buck press10.46

Bar tack m/c12.08

Total4027.86

Flat bed press table and manual 116.85Productivity/oper/day=13.78

Grand Total51 34.71 Target/day=551.33

Productivity=480/ machine SAM (480/27.86)=17.22At 80% efficiency=17.22 x0.8=13.78Target per day=productivity x No of machines I.e. 13.78 x40=551.33 Target per Hr=target per day/8 i.e. 551.33/8=68.9 1.6. Garment process layout Lay out addresses various problems in the entire production processes in the factory ranging from the acceptance of materials to the delivery of finished products. The layout is considered mainly in the three different phases, such as the Selection of a site for the factory Layout of plant Layout of machineryThis section introduces the planning of layout with particular emphasis on the layout of sewing machines for a production system introduced. The way in which machinery, equipment and material are arranged in a working area determines the layout in that area. Even if the initial layout was well thought out, examination of the utilization of space is very important because of various factors, among them the following. New equipment or machinery or a different shape and size of materials are introduced. Materials handling equipment that has different space requirements from the original equipment is acquired. Moves are made by the management towards advanced technologies such as the use of robotics, automation, computer networking or flexible manufacturing systems. To rethink a layout, one has to start by distinguishing among for basic types. Layout by fixed position This arrangement is used when the material to process does not travel around the plant but stays in one place: all the necessary equipment and machinery are brought to it instead; typical examples are shipbuilding or aircraft construction. Layout by process or function here all operations of the same nature are grouped together for example in the garment industry all the cutting of material is carried out in one area, all the sewing in another and all the finishing in the third and so on Layout by product or line layout- which sometimes popularly referred to as mass production. In this layout all the necessary machinery and equipment needed to make a given product are set out in the same area and in the sequence of the manufacturing process. Typical examples are soft drink bottling, car assembly operations. Group layout- in an effort to increase job satisfaction, recently several enterprises have arranged their operations in a new way, with a group of workers working together on a given product or on a part of a product having at hand all the machinery and equipment needed to complete their work. In such cases the workers distribute the work among them and usually interchange jobs. 1.6.1. The Development of a Layout (sewing) From the production planning and delivery schedule one can determine the amount of machinery and equipment that will be needed in the present and the future. The space requirement for each item of machinery is then calculated. About 17% of the total space taken up by the machinery should be added in a single storey building to account for passages, and lifts.A calculation is then made for the space needed for storing work in progress and various other storage points. Steps to develop the lay out are:- Breakdown the list of operations in the product that we need to set up (operation bulletin). Allocate SAM, SMV or NPT (net processing time) for each operation.To calculate the SAM, we can use either of following methods- follow the Bin Ran or GSD(General Sewing Data ) for the predetermined standards. Or prepare 10 garments with the help of expert operators. While them preparing the garments, check time using stop watch each operations. While doing this method, initial two to three garments need to do to practice the operations. From fourth garment onwards need to check the timing for each operation and perform the following activities. Calculate the average time taken for each operation as the SAM for that particular operation. List down the required type and number of machineries, folders and attachments along with the operations. Calculate the number of machines required per operation based on the output required per day and SAM per operation. Prepare the flow chart according the sequence of operations. This can be done another way, prepare the parts in one section and the assembly in other sections of the same line. Allocate the operators to each operation according to their capability of doing those operations. Arrange the machines in the lines according to the sequence of operations mentioned in the layout. While arranging the sewing machines:-1. The sewing machines need to consider the easiness of handling of materials to the operators. If necessary, machineries can be arranged Face to face Side by side Back to back so that it makes easy to handle the materials.2. The important thing that we need to remember is, the layout should be arranged in such a way that, helpers usage for carrying the bundles, marking etc. should be avoided/ minimized.3. Fix up SOP (Standard Operating Procedure) for all operations in a chart. Which explains about the operation to be done, machine, needle, threads to be used, etc?4. While the line is setting up with the new style by the supervisor /line in charge, observe carefully, whether required instructions are passed to the operator and confirm whether she / he understands the operation completely.5. Once the line is set, check whether all the operators are doing according to their pre determined SAM or not. If not, check why? 6. check the sewing and handling methods he /she is following, check whether the machine is giving any trouble, etc. find out the reason and resolve the problem with the help of concerned department like maintenance or production.7. Make sure each work station have enough WIP (Working Instruction Procedure) for the work. Alert the supervisor if there are bottlenecks in the line.8. Make thought process about the simplification of the operations so that the productivity and quality could improve. And the cost per garment could reduce. 9. Collect the details of production from the production clerks, calculate the performance and efficiency of the operators and the lines.10. Display boards for the lines efficiency reports at the end of the lines need to be place.

1.6.2. Layout of sewing machines Controller often thinks that layout changing is the most important point in improvement. The layout should be taken, however, as only a tangible form of various improvement plans. In fact the layout changing may directly increase productivity or the number of pieces produced, or enhances the space efficiency. 1.6.3. Purpose of layout If the flow production system is put into practice before fully investigating the layout, productivity will drop, as a matter of course, because of a loss in transfer. Inadequate layout will increase allowance work not only in transfer but also in movement of workers, arrangement of products and prearrangement of work. In addition, improper work arrangement caused by the layout will generate waste in pick and place movement resulting in the flow production that lacks in the line compulsiveness (the force of carrying out production both smoothly and regularly).This means that the purpose of layout is to realize the aim of system for which the production system is planned in the actual production site based on the layout of equipment or other conditions In addition, the following principles of layout shall be fully considered.

The distance by which the goods (products) move shall be minimized.The distance by which the workers move shall be minimized.The distance by which the information is distributed shall be minimizedWorkability shall be fully considered.Machines shall be laid out so that the progress of work can be visually checked at a quick look. (Machines shall be laid out in an orderly fashion.)The layout of machines shall be flexible to accept a slight change in specifications (styles).Principles of layout

1.6.4. Layout procedureThe basic layout procedure in the flow production system is as described below. In this case, 1. lot-by-lot production will be performed in the parts (attachments) processes, 2. Piece-by- piece production will be performed in the assembly (main flow) processes, and layout changing will be carried out centering the assembly processes when changing the product number to a new one.3. Preparation of a reduced drawing of the factory Make a 1/50 or 1/100 scale layout plot. It is helpful to use a copy of an architectural plan.4. Make models of the machinery and equipment.

How to investigate the actual layoutCheck the actual layout following the procedure similar to the layout plan.Prepare a reduced drawing of the factory. Models of machinery and equipment. Enter facilities, machines and equipment that cannot be moved. Prepare process analysis charts for the products that are being produced in the factory. (Enter the process numbers.)Attach numbers to the operators assigned.Locate the models of machines and equipment on the plot according to the actual layout.Enter the operator numbers and process numbers on the models of machines and equipment according to the actual process organization (process allotment). Enter lines representing the product flow and movement of workers.Check the actual layout for problems.

5. Checking the layout 5.1. Whether there is any reverse flow or cross flow of products 5.2. Whether there is any overlapping flow of products 5.3. Whether the transfer distance (path load) is too long 5.4. Whether the number of storage shelves is appropriate 5.5. Whether the locations of the storage shelves are appropriate 5.6. Whether the space is clearly separated for each process 5.7. Whether the workshop space is effectively used 5.8. Whether there are enough corridors 6. Basic layout of sewing machines and equipment Layout of machines differs in arrangement and the number of unit to be installed according to the systematic factors such as production system and process organization. In this section various patterns of layout of sewing machines based on the existing case examples of their layouts are investigatedKinds of layout of sewing machines are broadly divided into three patterns, i.e. Layout by model. Layout by group and Layout by process

Lockstitch machine Over lock Iron special machines Lockstitch special purposeLayout by model

Example of layout of sewing machine by mode

In the layout of machines by model as illustrated above, the machines or equipment is rarely moved at the time of product type changing. In this point, the layout by model is a layout pattern that matches the flexible production system where May different kinds of products are manufactured in small lots. The layout pattern, however, does not match the sewing product manufacturing since it causes increase in distance of transfer and movement, reduction in line balance efficiency or difficulty in progress control, thereby resulting in significant loss of production. Therefore, the layout by model is only applicable to a certain product type or the sewing of samples. (This layout pattern is, however, usually used for manufacturing knitwear.)Layout by groupThis is the layout pattern for arranging machines required by a group consisting of several workers. The machines are laid out corresponding to the basic design of products. They are not moved unless any significant problem exists. This pattern of layout is consequently used for the lot production system. (This layout pattern is usually used in parts processes or attachments processes.) Layout by processThis is the layout pattern for arranging machine according to the normal processing order of products. In the case where the work allotment is not done following the order of processes, workers may have to move a lot. Some of the machines will be required to be moved at the time of product type changing. However, this pattern of layout of machine facilitates the progress control and allows the line compulsiveness to work. (This layout pattern is usually used in assembly processes since flow control is important. The following arrangement of machines is the basic one of the layout by process. 1. Forward flow

Direction of flow 2. Lateral flow

Direction of flow 3. Unit

Direction of flow.These three different basic arrangement patterns are combined to make a layout.Combined type layout such as forward flow and lateral flow or forward flow and unit may be employed. Arrangement of machines laying importance on rationalization of transfer and pick-and place for products with single product number is the basis of the layout by process. Flexibility to adapt to product number changing is also required.There are applied methods of the layout by process such as the forward flow (synchro system), lateral flow (U-shape layout) and unit system, in addition to the above mentioned layouts we have I- system, L- system and S- system layout.Calculate the required floor space for the total number of equipment.Example :- Required floor per 1 sewing equipment -------------about 6m2 =A Total Number of sewing equipment------------------187=B Required floor space per 1 finishing equipment-----about 10m2=C Total number of finishing equipment ---------------20 =DRequired floor space=AXB+CXD Required floor space = 6X187+10X20 =1,322m21.7. Target setting Targets Are priorities or special tasks which need to be achieved in addition to the routine work. Are specifically to an individual May be intended to Improve performance Reduce a drop in performance Develop a trainee to the required level Targets are about short term shift in performance; whereas Standards are continuing benchmark.Why set targets?Targets are set to Get results Improve peoples performance Develop skills, ability and knowledge Provide a challenge and sense of achievement.Target setting helps to answer the questions like:- How am I doing? Where do I go from here? How do I get there? How targets are set? How many? How precise? For what period? How difficult? How to monitor? Walking on the job One to one meetings Records.

Target calculation The total target for the whole day, means 8 working hours is calculated as:Target =productivity x No of machinesSimilarly, target per hour= (total target)/8 No. of operators required The number of operators required for a particular operation is calculated as: Number of operators=total target/ (60x8/operation SAM) Number of days required to complete a style = order quantity / (productivity x number of machine per line x number of lines).Daily Lines targets need to be calculated in respect to the number of operators being used according to SAM of garment. There are 2 ways to calculate the line target. The formulae are as follows:-SAM = standard allowable minutes (time allowed through general sewing data GSD analysis for a complete garment) in 480 Mints. For any garment industry Daily Lines Targets = available working mints/ SAMAvailable Working Mins= No. of operators x Total Working Mins.Example:-Number of operators present for line1=20SAM for the garment = 7.53 Working mins = 60x8=480Therefore, Available working mins = 20x480 = 9600Daily lines targets = 9600/7.53 = 1274.9 Target Setting in case of operators absence If after replacement of operators we come to have a line which is incomplete that is we dont have any operators on a certain operation. So to calculate the target we should add the SAM of the operation from the Total SAM. Example:-Considering the same example of above, but in this case operation hem bottom is not being done & the SAM = 0.43. Operators available = 19. The target of line should be as so, Daily Lines Targets = Available working mints/Total SAM+SAM of bottom hem = 9600/ (7.53+0.43) = 1206.03 How to calculate the number of machineThe number of machines necessary for daily production quantity in each processes can be calculated as follows. The number of m/c necessary for each process = Time required for each process x Daily production quantity / Working time per day Example 1; for Dart sewing SAM=0.76 Working Time per shift= 480mins. Production Quantity per/shift=400pcs. The Number of m/cs necessary for sewing Dart = 0.76minx400pcs/480 = 0.63=1m/cs 1.8. Line balancing

Production line balancing is the allocation of the work to be done to the people available to it. It is assigning the number of operators or machines to each operation of an assembly line so as to meet the required production rate with the minimum of ideal time. The process of aligning operations within a specific production line, that minimizes fluctuations in production levels and operation downtime, improve the output of assembly line. The purpose of line balancing To ensure a steady flow of work through the production line. To reduce the material handling time and manufacturing costs. To make the best use of space. To improve the working environment. Steps for line balancing Calculation of the labor requirement With good work measurement records the work content of a new garment can be calculated. The number of people required will depend up on the probable efficiency of the line selected and the percentage of the time that they are at work and doing their own specialist jobs.The garment is split into different operations, in the interest of greater specialization and assigns a standard time for each operation and special work aids and attachments should also be mentioned on it Theoretical operation balanceThe elements are grouped together, to match the number of people selected, in the calculation of labor requirements. No allowance is made. Balance controlAfter the line is balanced it should be revised to assure the smooth flow of the process. If there is any misbalance between each operation correction action can be done by identifying the problem.Limitations of work studyThe application of work study has, even today, a number of limitations which might be called its weak points and which certainly provide food for thought on several counts. The contrast between the highly technical and mechanical character of the concepts on which work study is based and the psychological and sociological traits of the groups and individuals affected by work study The inevitably subjective nature of certain aspects of work study, especially the assessment of working pace. These points should always be kept in mind when the results are used in practice to fix work standards and, whenever possible, the work standards calculated should be cross checked by production studies taken under actual operating conditions before the work standards are finalized. Such considerations should especially influence the calculation of payment results, which is often based on an estimate of the optimum rate of work and the difference between this and the normal rate, since the size of the productivity bonus awarded to a worker who achieves the optimum rate will depend on this difference. The questions of fixing and maintaining the workload.The first problem that arises here is the maximum workload. If, as often happens, the actual workload is fixed by collective bargaining at somewhere between 80 and 90 per cent of the operatives time on the job, the question arises whether a more scientific procedure can be used to determine this limit, bearing in mind the nature of the job and the circumstances in which it has to be performed.

2. JOB DISCRPITION2.1. ObjectiveTo identify the job so as to enable the worker to obtain a clear understanding of the work performed and the attributes desirable in the person working on the job.When properly prepared, job descriptions are of considerable value to management in a variety of ways in addition to their use in evaluating jobs. Some of the circumstances in which they may be useful are listed below:1. Hiring new employees2. Transferring employees3. Preparing a promotional schedule4. Establishing a training program5. Preventing accidents6. The work of the plant physician7. Cost estimating8. Budgetary control9. Time keeping and pay-roll activities10. Organizing a psychological testing program11. Installing a wage incentive scheme2.2. Terms included in job descriptionThese Six items of information listed below are basic and necessary for any consideration of the job and should be included in every job description.1. Job Title: It is desirable that the job title be short, definitive, and suggestive of the nature of the job.2. Summary of the Job: A short paragraph briefly summarizing the task performed by the employee is helpful for subsequent convenient identification of the job.3. Work Performed: Each specific task performed should be written out and an estimate percentage of the time that is devoted to the performance of each task. This is the most important phase of the job description and should be carefully prepared.

4. Tools, Equipment, and Materials:The tools, equipment, and materials used in the performance of the job should be included in the job description.5. Physical Surroundings:The working conditions, hazards, and other characteristics of the physical surroundings within the working area should be described to aid to subsequent interpretation of the job description.6. Employee Attributes: Employee attributes required by the job such as education and experience, should be indicated. 2.3. How is job description prepared?The information necessary for the preparation of the job description can be secured in one or more of the following ways:1. By observation of the job as performed2. By discussion with the supervisor of the job3. By requesting the supervisor of the job to fill in a questionnaire describing the job.4. By discussion with one or more of the employees working on the job.5. By requesting one or more of the employees working on the job to fill in questionnaires describing the job.The technique of questionnaires is recommended only in the case of those rare technical Jobs (usually salaried) where the Job Content is not completely known to the supervisor or the operation is too complex to observe or the Job is actually what the employee makes it. Job descriptions may well be prepared out in the shop. Every job should be described as it exists and as it is currently performed. Changes in procedure that might be made or are planned should never be included in a job description until they take place.One of the most difficult phases of preparing job descriptions lies in the breaking down of on existing job into two or more jobs.The most common difficulty encountered in the preparation of job description is the omission of relevant information. Because of ignorance, laziness, or a mistaken desire to economize in terms of time, job descriptions may be incompletely prepared. Actually, this is worse than not preparing them at all. Furthermore, as grievances arise subsequently concerning the correctness of any given evaluation, a serious problem will arise if management cannot prove that the job was evaluated on the basis of its actual content. On the other hand, occasionally job descriptions are found which contain entirely too much minutes detail. The best job descriptions are clear, concise, and complete and present the entire jobs distinguishing characteristics. 2.4. Checking the job description and Securing approvalsAfter the job descriptions have been completed, they should be carefully reviewed to assure. (1) That there has been no involuntary duplication and (2) That all jobs that should be evaluated have been described. This can best be done by accounting for the job or jobs performed by each individual on the pay roll with the supervisors concerned. 2.5. Job evaluationJob evaluation is an analytical method of appraising the worth and value of each job in relation to other jobs and hence it is used to determine the pay package for the job. Jobs are evaluated taking into consideration the duties & responsibilities, physical and mental efforts needed, working conditions and other critical factors. The purpose is to determine the relative worth of the jobs and to design a fair and equitable salary structure. It helps in identifying the jobs, which should be paid more than others. Job evaluation involves analyzing the jobs and preparing specifications i.e. Job description, rating each job in accordance with a predetermined method of rating and pricing of the job, i.e. arranging the each job in proper pay grade. This evaluation and rating is done is done by any one of the following four methods: Job ranking, job classifications, point rating and factor comparison. To understand the concept of job evaluation, let us consider an example In garment industry there are various categories of workers. Some of the categories may be Work study and job description for garment industry supervisors2008

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Spreader Cutter Pattern maker Sewer Finisher Packing operator

For each workers the skills required and the quantity of the work to be done etc, are different. For instance a sewing operator needs a certain level of mental development, flexibility of body and fingers and physical fitness; whereas, a sweeper job requires very simple skills.When there are large number of workers, fixing the hierarchy needs a careful consideration of all the relevant factors. The process of arriving at a meaning full hierarchical system for various jobs by the consideration of all the relevant facts of the jobs is called job evaluation. In job evaluation, the jobs and not the person caring out the job is evaluated.