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Install Guide for 8th Generation Honda Civic Cold Air Intake

Features:

Full Silicone Construction

Most powerful 8th Gen intake on the market

Built In Air Bypass helps to avoid hydrolocking

Includes velocity stack

Includes battery relocation kit

Available couplers for large and small throttle bodies

Requires tuning software like FlashPro

Recommend Tools:

Metric Socket and Wrench set

Socket extensions

Large flat head screwdriver

#2 Phillips head screwdriver

Pliers

Drain pan for coolant

5mm allen wrench

This product may not be legal for highway use. Hybrid Racing is not responsible for any direct or indirect, actual or incidental expense attributed to the use of any performance parts sold by Hybrid Racing LLC. Purchasers

agree to all of the terms of this agreement upon the purchase of parts.

Important!! Installation should be performed by a trained technician or experienced installer. If you see terminology in this install guide that you are

not familiar with, please contact the vendor you purchased the intake from for assistance. Please read the whole guide before attempting installation.

Package Contents:

(1) Steel Battery Tray

(1) Silicone Inlet Tube (3.5” ID)

(1) Silicone Throttle Body coupler for small throttle bodies

(0) Silicone Throttle Body coupler for large throttle bodies (sold separately)

(1) Silicone Radiator Hose

(1) Silicone Valve Cover Breather Hose (5/8” ID)

(1) Silicone Air Assist Valve Hose (3/8” ID)

(1) Bypass Manifold with sticker and filter element

(1) 6” Inlet, 3.5” Outlet Velocity Stack

(1) 6” ID Air Filter

(4) SAE 56 Stainless Steel Hose Clamps

(2) SAE 6 Stainless Steel Hose Clamps

(2) SAE 10 Stainless Steel Hose Clamps

(1) SAE 104 Stainless Steel Hose Clamp

(2) M8x1.25 20mm Class 12.9 bolts

(2) M8 Flat Washers

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This intake system was developed for the 8th Generation Honda Civic Si. If your civic is not an Si or 8th generation, fitment is not guaranteed. We are currently in the process of evaluating fitment of this intake on the FD2 (JDM) and FN2 (EDM) civics. If you are trying to install this intake for those vehicles or any other vehicle, please contact us first to confirm that the parts will fit on your vehicle.

Introduction & Installation Notes A little bit of information to make sure you have the right parts before you get started!

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Install Guide

STEP 1: Locate and remove the radiator cap so that coolant will flow freely when we go to drain the cooling system. The radia-tor cap is located towards the front of the engine bay and will be towards the right side of the engine bay (when viewed from the front of the car), near the battery and coolant overflow tank. DO NOT remove the radiator cap until the car has fully cooled. If the car has not fully cooled, you risk being sprayed with hot steam which can cause severe burns. The engine coolant temperature (ECT) can be checked using the dash-board’s ECT gauge or by using Flash-Pro.

STEP 2: Drain the coolant. The arrow in Figure 2 shows the location of the radiator drain bung. This is located on the underside of the radiator and is accessible through a small hole in the car’s plastic undertray. The bung is a white plastic plug. You can loosen it by turning it counterclockwise. Make sure the car has cooled or you risk getting burned by the hot coolant. Drain-ing the entire cooling system is not nec-essary. By removing at least 1 gallon from the radiator, you will have lowered the coolant level enough to swap out the upper radiator hose later.

STEP 2

STEP 1

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STEP 4: There is a small Phillips head screw that affixes the edge of the bumper to the fender on both sides of the vehicle (one screw per side). The screw is accessible through the wheel well. Figure 4a shows the location of the bolt. Figure 4b shows a close up of the bolt’s location. Use a Phillips head screwdriver to remove these screws.

Install Guide

STEP 4

STEP 3b STEP 3a

STEP 3: While still under the car, it’s a good time to remove all of the OEM bumper clips. The clips are round and black and can be removed with a flat head screwdriver. Simply put the flat head into the slot on the clip and pry up the clip’s center section. (See Figure 3a). Once the center section is pulled up, the flathead screwdriver can be used under the outer section of the clip to pry it out of the bumper and/or undertray (See Figure 3b). There are quite a few of these clips 10 to 20 in all. Remove all of them

STEP 4a STEP 4b

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STEP 5: To remove the bumper, we must first remove the black plastic cowling. The grill cover is held on by 4 clips that are similar to the clips we removed in Step 3. Their locations are shown by arrows in Figure 5.

Install Guide

STEP 7: Now that all of the bumper’s

clips, screws, and bolts have

been removed, we can take the

bumper off the car. The bumper

is held on by a series of claps.

First, grab the bumper at the tip

in each fender well and pull out-

wards as shown in step 7.

STEP 7

STEP 6

STEP 5

STEP 6: With the grill cover removed, we now have access to the remain-ing bolts that are holding the bumper on. Use a 5mm allen wrench to remove the 2 shoulder bolts located just above the grill, next to each headlight (see the arrows in Figure 6).

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Install Guide

STEP 8: The last step in removing the

bumper is to pull it free from the

clasps that are located under

each headlight. Simply pull the

whole bumper forward (as shown

in Figure 8) to pull it free from the

car. Have a firm grip on the

bumper during this step as there

will be no other fasteners sup-

porting the bumper at this point.

To avoid damage to your paint,

set the bumper on something soft

like grass, carpeting, or a large

blanket.

STEP 9:

Next, we will remove the battery.

We’ll start by removing the bat-

tery tie down. First, pull the wir-

ing harness off of the tie down j-

hook. See Figure 9a and 9b for

illustrations.

STEP 9a

STEP 8

STEP 9b

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Install Guide

STEP 10:

Using a 10mm deep socket, re-

move the (2) M6 nuts that are

holding the battery tie down in

place. With these removed, you

can remove the tie down and j-

hooks.

STEP 11: With the tie down removed, we

can now disconnect the battery.

Each terminal can be loosened

using a 10mm deep socket. Just

loosen each terminal enough so

that it slides off the battery post.

The negative terminal is shown in

Figure 11a; disconnect this termi-

nal first. The positive terminal

has a red cap that must be lifted

to access the terminal. It is

shown in Figure 11b; remove this

terminal last.

Now that the battery has been

fully disconnected, carefully lift it

out of the engine bay and set it

aside for now.

STEP 11b

STEP 11a

STEP 10

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Install Guide

STEP 12:

With the battery removed, we

can now remove the coolant

overflow tank. Unscrew the

tank’s cap (as shown in Figure

12a). Set the tank’s cap and

hose in front of the radiator sup-

port (as shown in Figure 12b) so

that it is out of the way during lat-

er steps.

STEP 13: Next, just pull the tank up to free

it from its bracket. It will slide

right out. Be careful as the tank is

filled with coolant and will spill if

not kept upright. This tank will go

back in later. Set it aside for now.

STEP 13

STEP 12b

STEP 12a

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Install Guide

STEP 14:

Now we’ll turn our attention to re-

moving the OEM intake compo-

nents. First, unbolt the resonator

from the chassis. The resonator

is located in front of the driver’s

side wheel (on left hand drive ve-

hicles) and is held on with (2) M6

bolts. Use a 10mm socket and a

long socket extension to access

these bolts. Figure 14a shows

the resonator. Figure 14b shows

the location of the first bolt you’ll

need to remove. Figure 14c

Shows the approximate location

of the 2nd bolt you’ll need to re-

move. With the 2 bolts removed,

the resonator can be removed

from the car. It has an inlet and

outlet pipe connected to it, but

the pipes just slide together, so

no hose clamps must be re-

moved.

STEP 14c

STEP 14b

STEP 14a

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Install Guide

STEP 15:

Now we turn our attention to the

airbox and its piping. First, dis-

connect the engine harness from

the MAF sensor as shown in Fig-

ure 15.

STEP 16: Using a #2 Phillips head screw-

driver, remove the two screws

that hold the MAF in place. Pull

the MAF out of the airbox and set

it aside. It will be reinstalled into

your new cold air intake later.

STEP 17: Next, disconnect the valve cover breather hose. It is held on with a spring type hose clamp. To re-move the hose, compress the hose clamp with pliers and pull on the hose. If the hose seems to be stuck, spraying silicone spray or a similar lubricant between the hose and nipple then twisting the hose back and forth will help

STEP 17

STEP 16

STEP 15

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Install Guide

STEP 18:

Next, repeat Step 17 but for the

air assist valve hose shown in

Figure 18.

STEP 19: Next, use a Phillips head screw-

driver to loosen the hose clamp

connecting the OEM intake to the

throttle body.

STEP 20: Remove the tube that connects the resonator (from step 14) to the airbox. The tube that con-nects the two parts simply slides onto both. It takes a bit of force and wiggling to pull the hose off, but no tools should be needed. Once disconnected, the pipe can be remove that pipe from the ve-hicle, but it can be difficult to snake out, so you may wish to wait until you remove the airbox and battery tray to remove this pipe.

STEP 20

STEP 19

STEP 18

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Install Guide

STEP 21:

The airbox is held to the engine

and transmission by (4) bolts.

Use a 12mm socket and medium

length extension to get to them.

They are difficult to see, but ar-

rows are shown in Figure 21

showing their approximate loca-

tions. Once all (4) bolts are

STEP 22: This step is optional. At the back

of the transmission is an alumi-

num bracket that previously sup-

ported the airbox. This bracket is

no longer needed and is an eye

sore to some people. If you wish

to remove it, use a 10mm socket

to remove the (3) M6 bolts that

hold the bracket to the back side

of the transmission.

STEP 23: Next, remove the upper radiator hose. Shown in this picture is one of our silicone radiator hoses with optional t-bolt clamps. If you have our t-bolt clamps, you will need a 10mm deep socket to re-move them. If you have the OEM clamps, you will use a pliers to remove them like in steps 17 and 18. Once the clamps are loos-ened, remove the radiator hose from the car

STEP 23

STEP 22

STEP 21

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Install Guide

STEP 25:

The last part we’ll need to re-

move before beginning installa-

tion is the OEM battery tray. The

battery tray is bolted to the frame

using (4) M8 bolts. 2 are assess-

able from the top of the tray, the

other 2 are assessable from the

side. Use a 12mm socket and ex-

tensions to remove these bolts.

Figure 24 shows (2) of the (4)

bolts.

STEP 26: Woohooo! Time to (finally) start

installing some new parts! Let’s

start by installing the (sexy) new

battery tray. The (sexy) new bat-

tery tray will use 2 of the original

4 bolts holes (the 2 that were on

top of the OEM tray). Carefully

lower the (sexy) battery tray in

place and install the supplied

bolts and washers told hold it in

place. The new M8 bolts should

be tightened using an M6 allen

socket. Tighten the (dry) bolts to

35 lb-ft (47 N-m). Did we mention

how sexy that battery tray is?

Damn, girl!

STEP 26

STEP 25

STEP 24

STEP 24:

The lower radiator hose has a

small metal bracket supporting it.

Remove it using a 12mm socket.

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Install Guide

STEP 27:

With the battery tray secured,

you can now place the battery in-

to it. There are a few things you

should know before attempting to

put the battery in place. First, the

battery is a pretty tight fit, so you

will have to nudge the lower radi-

ator hose out of the way. It’s im-

portant that you install the battery

so that it’s oriented the same way

as shown in Figure 27. This flips

the battery 180 degrees com-

pared to its OEM location. This is

important because if you don’t

orient the battery this way, the

battery terminals won’t reach.

STEP 28: Before attaching the battery ter-

minals, the negative battery ca-

ble needs to be moved to a dif-

ferent attachment point on the

chassis so it reaches. Figure 28a

shows an arrow pointing to the

original attachment location. The

cable is shown bolted to its new

location in Figure 28b(it shares a

bolt with the clutch line bracket).

Once the cable is attached to its

new location, you can attach it to

the negative battery terminal us-

ing a 10mm deep socket.

STEP 28b

STEP 27

STEP 28a

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Install Guide

STEP 29:

Attach and tighten the positive

battery terminal. Tighten it using

a 10mm deep socket and make

sure that the protective cover is

in the downward and locked posi-

tion to avoid any chance of the

battery grounding out. Also, take

this time to reinstall the battery

tie down. The battery tray has

holes at the base to slide the

OEM j hooks through.

STEP 30: To make room for the coolant

reservoir’s new location, you’ll

need to remove a small plastic

clip next to the radiator filler

neck. A flat head screwdriver can

be used to pry the clip off. If you

are concerned about breaking

the clip, you can use a pliers on

the opposite side of the metal it

hooks into to squeeze the clip

and help it to slide out.

STEP 31: Next, slide the coolant reservoir onto the bracket (the bracket is part of the new battery tray). Once the reservoir is in place, you can put the cap back on it. Position the hose for the reser-voir as shown in Figure 31.

STEP 31

STEP 30

STEP 29

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Install Guide

STEP 32:

Install the new silicone radiator hose that was supplied with your intake. This radia-tor hose is designed to provide more clearance for the large intake piping. Use the hose clamps you removed from the original radiator hose to affix it in place. Before proceeding, make sure you can shift through all gears smoothly. If the transmission counterweight hits the radia-tor hose, loosen the hose clamps and twist the hose so that the counterweight no longer hits the hose.

STEP 33: Before attempting to install the intake into your car, it’s wise to partially assem-ble the piping. Use (2) of the included hose clamps to connect the throttle body coupler (labeled “1” in Figure 33), by-pass manifold (labeled “2” in Figure 33), and 3.5” inlet section (labeled “3” in Fig-ure 33). Section 3 is symmetric, so it does not matter which end you use. When installing the 2 hose clamps as, indicated by the two red arrows in Figure 33, be sure not to over tighten these as this can damage the compo-site bypass manifold. Also, make sure that the clamps are as close to the end of the silicone tubing as possible. Simply tighten them enough to hold eve-rything together. The throttle body cou-pler has a bend in it; try to orient the bend as shown in Figure 33. The bypass manifold has a number of ports on it, ori-ent them as shown in Figure 33. Install one of the included hose clamps at the end of the throttle body coupler in prepa-ration for the next step.

STEP 33

STEP 32

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NOTE There are 2 different throttle body cou-plers available for this intake system. The coupler supplied with the kit is de-signed to fit the OEM throttle body as well as the very popular J35 throttle body. If you are using a larger throttle body such as an aftermarket 70mm (or larg-er) throttle body or the Acura ZDX throt-tle body, you will need to purchase the big bore coupler that we produce for this kit.

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Install Guide

STEP 34:

Take the partially assembled in-

take from Step 33 and place it in-

to the engine bay. The inlet sec-

tion should get inserted through

the hole at the fender well, and

the throttle body coupler will get

placed on the throttle body. Once

properly positioned, Tighten the

hose clamp at the throttle body.

STEP 35: Next, install the velocity stack

and filter. If the velocity stack and

filter were supplied already con-

nected, check the large hose

clamp to ensure it’s tightened

well. With the filter and velocity

stack connected, slide the last

3.5” hose clamp over the inlet of

the silicone tube, then slide the

velocity stack into the silicone

tube.

STEP 36: Next, install the MAF into the by-pass manifold as shown in Figure 36. Use the same 2 screws that held it into the OEM airbox. Once screwed in, reconnect the OEM MAF connection (on the engine harness) to the MAF.

STEP 36

STEP 35

STEP 34

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Install Guide

STEP 37:

Next, use the supplied 5/8” ID

hose and (2) SAE 10 hose

clamps to connect the larger port

on the bypass manifold to the

breather port on the valve cover.

Also use the 3/8” ID hose and (2)

SAE 6 hose clamps to connect

the smaller port on the bypass

manifold to the Air Bypass Valve

on the intake manifold.

STEP 38: With the battery tray and intake installed, it’s now safe to refill the radiator. Before fill-

ing the system, check the drain plug under the radiator to make sure it’s closed.

There are few things more annoying than filling a radiator only to find that you left the

drain plug open and are letting your coolant pour all over the ground.

STEP 37: It’s now time to start reinstalling your bumper. Just follow steps 3-8 in reverse order to get the bumper back on. Be carefull when aligning the bumper up in step 8 as it’s easy to get the clips under the headlights misaligned. If you’re having trouble getting the bumper to line up correctly, chances are the clips under the headlights are the culprit. Try pulling the bumper off again and getting a helper to make sure the bumper lines up with the clips under one headlight while you check the other.

STEP 37

STEP 38: Before starting the car, make sure you have a MAP-based calibration loaded into your FlashPro or similar tuning software. Do not start the car up with a MAF-based calibra-tion as this will cause the car to run leaner than intended and there is no way to create a MAF-based tune that works properly with this intake design. Hondata provides base maps with MAP-based calibrations. Select the one most suited for your setup and up-load it to your FlashPro. Every car is different, so expect some minor tweaks to be needed to make the most power and to get your AF ratios correct.

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If you have any questions or comments, please email support at support@hybrid-racing.com

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Users assume all cost and risk associated with these or any other items purchased from Hybrid Racing LLC. Parts sold or manufactured by Hybrid Racing LLC may not meet legal requirements for use on public roads. People thinking about purchasing product(s) from Hybrid Racing LLC should check with their local and state authorities for legality. It is the user’s re-sponsibility to know and comply with all local and federal laws and regulations. Use or installation of Hybrid Racing LLC products may affect user insurance and/or vehicle warranty coverage. It is the user’s sole responsibility for consequences that may occur due to having the product installed in his/her vehicle. Hybrid Racing LLC assumes no legal responsibilities and/or liabilities, whether to us-er’s vehicle, engine, person(s), and/or property(s), that result from the use of, or servic-ing of a vehicle of which a Hybrid Racing LLC product has been installed/attempted to be installed, or to any other vehicle(s) and/or person(s), regardless of whether or not this product has any involvement directly or indirectly and/or liability, and/or whether or not proper installation has been carried forth. All engines, engine parts and electrical components are for OFF ROAD USE ONLY/RACING VEHICLES ONLY. They are not for or to be used on public roads in the USA. Acquisition of a Hybrid Racing LLC product will act as an acknowledgement of the le-gal disclaimer stated herein. Hybrid Racing LLC reserves the right to change this disclaimer at any time without any prior consent or notification.

Should you need to contact us our details are as follows: Hybrid Racing LLC, 12231 Industriplex Suite B, Baton Rouge, LA 70809

www.hybrid-racing.com