how to decorate a garment_ _ fabric_garment decoration techniques _ dkte textile notes.pdf
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2/26/2015 HowtoDecorateaGarment?|Fabric/GarmentDecorationTechniques|DkteTextileNotes
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DecoratingGarments:Garments are decorated based on the end usage by affixing sequins, rhinestones,embroideryetc.toenhancetheappearanceofthefinalproducts.Whetheryouaresellingitor thinkingof producing it yourself, the technologybehind the decorationwill play animportant part in your sales strategy and themore you know the better. In fact, sellingdecorated apparel without a basic understanding of the production processes could becostingyoumoney.
Fromatechnicalperspective,yourknowledgeofwhatcanandcannotbeproducedbyeachdifferentmethodwillgoalongwayinhowyoudealwithyourcustomersneeds.Atthesametime,youwillbeabletoavoidcostlymistakes(intermsofmoneyandlostaccounts)bypromisingthingsthatsimplyarentpossible.Fromacreativeperspective,themoreyouknowabouttheexcitingarrayofappareldecorationprocesses,thebetter,asitwillputyouinapositiontoshowyourcustomersnewconceptsandlooks,thatcansetyouapartfromyourcompetition.Thisinturnwillultimatelybringmorebusinessyourway.Anybodycansellawhitepoloshirtwithanembroideredlogo,butwhataboutapolarfleecevestwiththesamelogodonevialaseretchingorperhapsadenimjacketwithachenilleversion?
TypesofFabric/GarmentDecorationTechniques:
1. Embroidery2. Appliqu3. Biastrimmings4. Ricrac5. 3DFoam6. Sequins7. Ruffles8. Smocking9. Faggoting
10. ChenilleEmbroidery11. Lace12. Lacemotifs13. HeatTransfers14. Beltsandbow15. Decorativefasteners16. LaserEtching17. Pockets18. Scallopededging19. Screenprinting20. DirectToGarmentPrinting(DigitalPrinting)21. Rhinestones
HowtoDecorateaGarment?|Fabric/GarmentDecorationTechniques
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2/26/2015 HowtoDecorateaGarment?|Fabric/GarmentDecorationTechniques|DkteTextileNotes
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1.Embroidery:Simple embroidery designs enhance the appearance of childrens garments. In the dressdesignchain stitch for couching stitch canbeenworked to smallmotifswith lazydaisystitches or bullion stitches are worked within the false yoke and godet. Instead ofembroidery,beadsorsequinscanbeapplied.
Embroideryisnormallypricedbythenumberofstitchesinadesignandpricesareusuallyquotedincostperthousandstitches.Morestitchesmeansmoretimetoproduceandofcourseabiggerpricetag.
Therearetwokeyrequirementsforembroideringanygivenitem:
1. Youmustbeabletogetaneedlethroughit.2. Youmustbeabletogetitintoahooporframe.
Situationstoavoidwithembroidery:
Verysmallletteringanddetail.Lettersbelowinheightaretoughtosew
properly.
Largedesigns.Highstitchcountsarepriceyduetotheproductiontime.
Flimsygarments.Embroideryqualityisaffectedbygarmentquality.
Stiffrigidfabrics.Theymaynotbehoopable.
Layereditems.Apocketforexample,astheembroideryprocessmaysewit
closed.
2.Applique:Applique is a cutout piece of fabric that is stitched to a larger background fordecoration.Thisisapopularwayofdecoratingfabrics.Shapesofonefabricareappliedtothesurfaceorbackgroundofanotherfabricusingafinezigzagstitchorasintheexampleshown,withastraightstitch,whichoverlapstheedgeofeachshape.Thepatternpiecesthatmakeuptheappliquareusuallybackedwithinterfacingtogivethemstrength.
Embroidery
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Theappliqulook isverypopularwithsportsandschooldesigns.Theprocesscanbeusedtoaddtackletwillletters,numbersanddesignstogarments.
3.Biastrimmings:Biasbindingincontrastingmaterialorselffabriccanbeusedtofinishnecklines,openingandhemsingarments.Biastubingcanbeusedformakingdecorativebuttonloops.
Applique
Biastrimmings
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4.Ricrac:Thisisavailableindifferentcolorsatverylowcostandisverydurable.(Itshouldbetestedfor color fastness before attaching to garment). Ric rac can be sewn flat on thegarmentthroughthecentreoritmaybeattachedaroundedgesorbetweenseamssothatjustoneedge is show on the right side of the garment. A motif made of ric rac adds furtherdecoration.
5.3DFoamEmbroidery3DFoamembroideryisarelativelysimpleprocessthatanyembroidererhasthecapabilityofproducingthoughitdoesrequiresomespecialtechniquesduringthedigitizingprocess.Theapplicationiscreatedbyintroducingapieceoffoammaterialintothesewingprocess.Thestitchespenetrateandlockthefoamintothedesignsuchthatspecificelementsofthelogoaresignificantlyraisedupabovetherestofthedesign.
Ricrac
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6.SequinEmbroiderySequinsarestartingtomakeanimpactontheimprintedsportswearmarket.Longrelegatedtosparklytheatricalgarments,sequins(orspangles)arenowappearingonmoremainstreamproducts, from retail to souvenir.Of course, the applications are still limited due to thenatureofthelook,buttherearestillplentyofpossibilities.Thistechniquecanbeusedon just about any design and garment, provided the Embroiderer makes the necessaryadjustmentsduringthedigitizingprocesstoaccommodatethephysicalpieceoffoam.
7.Ruffles:Thisisalsoatypeoffrill.Tomakeapatternforcircularruffle.Cutapieceofcircularfabricwithitsinnercircleequaltothecircumferenceofthenecklineanditsoutercircle12awayfromtheinnercircle.Cutthecircularfabricatanyonepointandattachittheinnercircletothenecklineofthegarment.Doublerufflecanbeattachedtothearmholehemlineoneithersides.Theplacementofthedoublerufflegivesapanelledeffecttothefrontofthegarment.
3DFoamEmbroidery
SequinEmbroidery
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2/26/2015 HowtoDecorateaGarment?|Fabric/GarmentDecorationTechniques|DkteTextileNotes
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8.Smocking:Thisisdonebygatheringandembroideringoverthegathers.Thiscanbeworkedonlyoveraplaincloth.Whenthisisdonewithpracticethislooksattractive.Afterknottingthethreadworkrunningstitchesfromrighttoleftofequalwidth.Gatherthefabricandwinditoverthepinhead.Thenworkdesiredstitchover thegathered fabric.This isused todecoratewaistline, sleeve, neckline, Yoke and any other part of the garment. This stitch looksattractiveandlikedbymanyofthem.
Ruffles
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9.Faggoting:Thistrimisusedbetweenseamstogiveadecorativetouchortoaddthelengthorwidthofgarment. To executive the design cut the yoke and the lower section of the blouseseparately,withseamallowances.Alsocuttheyokepatternonheavypaperwithoneinchallowance.Foldunder theallowanceonedgeof theyokewhere faggoting is tobedoneandtackthefoldededgetothepreparedpattern.NowtackalsothelowersectionoftheblouseafterfoldingintheseamallowanceThendothefaggotingwithzigzagstitchesbetweenfoldings.
10.ChenilleEmbroidery
Smocking
Faggoting
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Thoughitstechnicallycalledchenilleembroidery,theprocessisnotdonewithtraditionalembroiderymachines,ratherittakesspecialequipmenttosewchenille.Theapplicationisbestknownforcreatingthelettersonlettermanjacketsandtheproductlookskindoflikeanoldstyleshagcarpet.However,chenillehasburstforthfromtheschoolmarketandisnowappearingoncorporateandsouvenirgarmentswithincreasingfrequency.
11.Lace:Lacecanbeusedasedging,insertionandbanding.Laceforedginghasonestraightedgewhichistobeappliedtothefabric.Itiscommonlyusedattheneckline,armhole,sleevehem,garmenthem,yoke lineetc.Lacemaybegathered togivea frilledeffect.Lace forinsertionhasitstwoedgesfinishedsymmetrically.Adesignwithfinetucksandinsertionoflace canbe combinedandapplied in ahorizontaldirection.Thebias tubing inserted insuch lacecanbe tied intoabow.The tubingmayalsobepulled toproducegathers.Anattractive band can bemade by placing lace over contrasting or self colored ribbon orfabric slightlynarrower than the lace.The ribbon is thenattached to thegarment in thedesiredportion.
12.Lacemotifs:Lacemotifsareveryeffectivewhensewnovercontrastingfabric.Themotifscanbecutoutfromawidelaceorboughtassuch.Cuttheoutlineofthemotifinacontrastingcolored
ChenilleEmbroidery
Lace
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liningfabricandtackittothewrongsideofthelacemotif.Trimtheliningfabricslightlysmaller around the edge. Now, applique the lined motif on the garment in the desiredplace.
13.HeatTransfersHeattransfershavelongbeenaquickmethodtoapplyprinteddesignstogarments.InsteadofcreatingtheimagedirectlyviascreenprintingorDTG,itscreatedonaspecialpaperthatallowstheimagetotransferontothegarmentwhenheatisapplied.
14.Beltsandbow:These have functional and decorative uses. In childrens garments. fabric belts aremostcommonlyused.Beltsmaybemadeoutofcontrastingmaterialorthegarmentmaterialitself.Thebeltmaybetiedwithabowatthebackoratoneside.Bowsmaybeattachedneartheneckline,shoulder,hemline,alongthecentrefrontlineetc.
Lacemotifs
HeatTransfers
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15.Decorativefasteners:Decorativefasteningsincludefabricbuttonsandloopseyletsandcord,fancybuttons,fabricbuttonholesetc.Onaplaindresswithcontrastingcollarorpiping,buttonscoveredwiththecollarpipingmaterialwouldbeeffective.Buttonsmaybefixedingroupstocreatedesigninterestgraduallyprogressinginsizefromsmalltobig.
16.LaserEtchingInHollywoodmovieslasersareusedtodestroythingswithawesome,spectacularresults.Inreal life, they are typically used for precise detailed applications that require a lot offinesse,suchasLasiksurgeryforvisioncorrection.Lasershavealsofoundtheirwayintotheworldof imprinted sportswear and canbeused to create someamazingdesigns in aformatnotreplicatedbyanyotherappareldecorationmethodology.Byusingaprecisionbeamofenergymovingatahighspeed,designscanbeuniquelyburnedintoawidevarietyof fabricswithoutcausinganyharmto thegarment.Theprocessactually removesa finelayer,leavingasortoftoneontoneimagebehind.
Beltsandbow
Decorativefasteners
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17.Pockets:Pocketsofdifferentshapes,sizesandlocationwithorwithoutdecorativedetailssuitedtothedesignofthegarmentcanenhancetheappearanceofthegarment.
18.Scallopededging:Scallopedshapesatgarmentedges(neckline,hemlineopeningsetc.)areordinarilymadebycuttinginthedesiredshapeandfinishingwithbiasbindingorshapedfacing.Asimilareffectmaybeproducedhoweverbytheuseofembroiderystitches.Theeffectofascallopedfrontopeningisobtainedbydrawingthescallopsinuniformshapeandworkingblanketstitchwithcontrastingcolored threadalong the linesdrawn.Thiscanbeused in frocks,skirt,kidswear,neckline,sleeveandintablecloth.
LaserEtching
Pockets
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19.ScreenprintingScreen printing has been around for ages and is the quickest and cheapest process forapplyinglargedetaileddesignstoavarietyofgarments.
The process is simple and complex at the same time.The first step is to breakdown theartworkbycolorreferredtoascolorseparations.Thenaseparatescreencomposedofaveryfinemeshmaterialiscreatedorforeachcolorseparation.Thescreenwillonlyallowink topass through in the areasdefinedby that colorof thedesign.Screens are createdusingaspecialphotographicprocesswhichisreferredtoasburningbymostshops.
20.DirectToGarmentPrinting/DigitalPrinting:Relatively new on the scene, directtogarment printing (DTG) also known as digitalprinting is a quick and easy method to print designs directly on garments using anoversizedinkjetprinterdesignedspecificallyfor thispurpose.Unlikescreenprinting,nocolor separations and screen creation is required.Theoretically, its just point, click andprintthoughnothingisreallythateasy.
Scallopededging
Screenprinting
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21.Rhinestones:Much like sequins, rhinestones have traditionally appeared on garments used in theentertainment business, with a goal of adding glitz and bling to theatrical garb. Butrhinestonesarefindingnewapplicationsinawiderangeofmarkets.
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Digitalprinting
Rhinestones
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