Home-DzineIDEAS AND INSPIRATION FOR YOUR HOME

July 2012

online

DESIGNDECORATINGDIY

DESIGNDECORATINGDIY

RECLAIMED STYLERECLAIMED STYLE

Home-Dzine Online is written and compiled by Janice Anderssen. All projects in this issue, or any other issue, remain the property of Home-Dzine and Janice Anderssen, or the respective copyright holders, and may not be copied or reproduced in any manner whatsoever without written permission.

It’s so nice to be able to concentrate on the magazine again, and I enjoyed doing quite a few projects for this issue, which features not only DIY projects but quite a bit on design as well.

I know I have asked for your input before but if you have any ideas or suggestions for content for the Home-Dzine Online magazine, or any specific features youwould like to see in the magazine - or on the website - please drop us a line at home-dzine@iburst.co.za.

Enjoy!

Janice

a word or two 5KITCHENTRENDS FROMMILAN TRADEFAIR

11SHUTTERS & BLINDS

13DESIGN

SECRETS

19DIY

DRESSING TABLE

24MAKE AN

ADJUSTABLEMIRROR

29 DESIGN WITHOUT LIMITS

35DESIGN FOR

PROFIT36

DESIGNERS WITH SAVVY

36RECLAIMED

STYLE

45TAGINES

49COURTYARDGARDENS

54GLITTERPLAY DOUGH

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Cost and energy savings are major design considerations for modern lighting systems. An estimated 29% of a typical office’selectricityusageis spent on lighting, but occupancy sensors can reduce this usage by half. The recently released Eurolux range of lighting motion detectors offers an effective occupancy sensor solution for most commercial, industrial and residential buildings.

“Occupancy sensors have become a standard requirement in modern lighting design,” says Shaun Bouchier, director at Eurolux. “Besides providing a means of minimizing energy consumption, it enhances safety and also reduces light pollution.”

“Wall sensors work well in small rooms, like individual offices, bathrooms etc., while ceiling sensors are bettersuited to large spaces or wherever the lighting load is higher,” explains Bouchier.

The detection distance of the Eurolux products range from 12

meters on the CO98 to 2-16 meters on the CO95.

Eurolux delivers on-demand lighting

The new Eurolux range consists of recessed and surface mounted

models with LUX levels ranging from 3 – 2000 LUX (adjustable).

The Eurolux CO96 [shown bottom left] is a surface mounted infrared sensor most suited to use in offices, boardrooms and residentialhomes, with a 380 degree detection range. With such sensors, motion is detected when an infrared source; such as a human; passes in front of another infrared source with a different temperature. The sensors react to the changes in heat patterns created by the moving person and turn lights on accordingly. This product is also available as a recessed unit.

According to Bouchier, the advantages of passive infrared are that they are highly resistant to false triggering, relatively inexpensive, and do not radiate any energy. However, because they operate on a line-of-sight mechanism, they don’t work well over long distances (+ 12 meters) or in rooms with obstructions.

Proper placement and orientation of occupancy sensors is crucial, says Bouchier. “They must be able to sense all occupants to avoid inadvertently turning off lights while the space is occupied.” In addition, the sensor must not be too sensitive as to cause “false positive” triggering such as the detection of passer-by’s in adjoining hallways.

For more information on this range and the effective use of lighting motion sensors contact Eurolux on 021 528 8400 or admin@eurolux.co.za

Lighting motion sensors are most effective in spaces that are intermittently occupied, meaning it is unoccupied for two or more hours per day, and where the lights are typically left on when the space is unoccupied.

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decor and design

The annual Milan Trade Fair places emphasis on HOME.

As the largest furniture show in the world, the Milan Trade Fair - iSaloni - draws in excess of 2,000 exhibitors to show case future design trends for all areas of a home.

It may be the 21st century, but designers are reinterpreting the past in design that is modern and more personal.

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When Marchi designed this kitchen, the picture in my mind was to create the ideal interior for a young couple who wanted an interior with good taste, but practical at the same time. A versatile kitchen to form a comfortable background for a range of activities and a changing life-style: an environment that would give a warm and welcoming feel to the whole apartment which had recently been restored.

They wanted a style that was congenial but still original, with plenty of room to invite friends for entertaining, and therefore it had to be functional, but also stylish enough to be incorporated into the living room area.

A combination of comfort and elegance, providing upscale contemporary elements

for a very practical modern kitchen, ideal for everyday living and conceived as the focal point of the home.

This is a DIY dream kitchen, with simple cabinet design, with painted finish in yourpersonal choice of colours, precut stone tops, silver handles and the total modular flexibility highlighted by top-qualityelectrical appliances to embellish and enhance the vintage style of this artisanal kitchen.

The attention given to details such as the old silver handles and the

total modular f lexibility highlighted by top-quality

electrical appliances embellish and enhance the vintage style of this

artisanal kitchen.

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If the iSaloni Milan Trade Fair is anything to go by, and it usually is, kitchen design is about to change. Gone are the wrapped and foil doors and cabinets, the high lacquer glossy finish istossed aside and kitchens are morphing into how the heart of a home should look... warm, comfortable and more natural.

What I love about this new trend is the fact that it is totally DIY-able. Painted finishes arecombined with metallic elements to add a touch of glam without the expensive price tag. Your local Metals Centre offer a wide range of stainless steel, aluminium and tin sheeting in varying thicknesses that is easy to cut and use.

paintperfect

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If you prefer natural finishes for your kitchen- a more rustic look - then you can easily incorporate wood cabinets and fittings intothis causal and homey style. Using pine, meranti or saligna is an affordable way to design and assemble a new kitchen and be sustainable too.

Sealed natural stone is a wonderful finish forkitchen countertops, offering both practicality and durability, plus it’s an easy DIY option. You will find a wide selection of natural stonetiles at your local Builders Warehouse.

warmwood

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A feature wall in energising red brings some rouge to a minimalist kitchen, and helps to define the dining area of thisopen-plan space, too.

You will need:

Plascon Cashmere Rickshaw Red (R4-B1-1)Plascon Cashmere Smoke Screen (B6-E2-1) Plascon Velvaglo White (VLO 1)Drop sheetsMasking tapePaintbrush, 10 cmPaint rollerSandpaper, 180-grit

Here’s how:

1. Make sure the wall is clean and dry. If you’re painting over a coloured wall – especially one with a yellow or yellow-toned base – first neutralise itwith two coats of a mid-tone grey, such as Plascon Cashmere Smoke Screen.

This will help prevent show-through so you will need fewer coats of your chosen colour.

On the other hand, if your base wall is white, apply two coats of Plascon Cashmere White.

DIY TIP:Work on a drop sheet and allow the paint to dry between coats.

2. Mask off any skirtings, doorframes and cornices. Using a 10cm paintbrush, paint two coats of Plascon Cashmere Rickshaw Red along the borders of the wall,

working in the direction of the line you’re following. Next, use a roller to paint the rest of the wall in vertical strokes.

Apply two coats, allowing the first coat todry before you apply the second.

DIY TIP:If necessary, when the wall is dry, use 180-grit sandpaper to lightly sand any wooden skirtings, doorframes and cornices, mask off the adjacent wall and paint with Plascon Velvaglo White using a paintbrush. Allow to dry and finish with a second coat.

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There is nothing more pleasurable than basking in winter sunshine slivering through a glass window or door on a cold day. These magic moments have us following the lazy sun with lizard-like devotion and curling our toes in woolly socks with delight. But as soon as the sun is cloaked, the cold grips us and we look for ways to replicate that natural warmth.

It is the same windows and doors that invite the winter sun into our homes that are responsible for losing our homes’ warmth. Glass windows and doors lose and gain heat in four ways:

Thermal radiation is the emission of electro-magnetic waves from all matter that has a temperature greater than zero. It is due to this process that a clear glass window or door absorbs the warmth inside your home and then re-radiates it to the exterior.

Heat conduction is the flow of thermal energyfrom a higher temperature to a lower temperature. A clear glass window or door allows the flow ofthermal energy through the glass to the exterior.

Heat convection is the natural process by which cool air moves downwards and warm air takes its place. Due to thermal radiation and heat conduction the air near a clear glass window or door is cooled and due to convection is moves towards the floor hereby drawing more warm airfrom the room to take its place.

Air leakage is relatively self explainable; openings due to damaged or poor fitted windowsand doors allow warm air to be lost to the exterior.

“South Africans love the outdoors and we are spoilt with so much natural beauty, therefore we design and build homes with fantastic glass

a comfortable home - all year round

There are many ways to create a

comfortable home, without switching on.

This month we take a look at

shutters and blinds.

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windows and doors, often stretching the expanse of a wall, allowing for maximum views and natural outdoor – indoor flow,’ says StephenPalmer, managing director of American shutters.

“However the same focus placed on the aesthetic and lifestyle value of these openings should be placed on the ways in which they are insulated to ensure comfort and health.”

Once a home is built, we tend to prioritise decorating styles and standards on how we treat windows and doors. Traditional window dressings such as fabric curtains and security measures such as security gates do not always consider the massive heat loss that is facilitated by glass windows and doors.

Most thermal insulation materials are hidden and not considered in the interior design process such as ceiling insulation and under floor heating.Others are not designed with decorating in mind such as bulky gas heaters and awkward electric heaters that require mobility to match the indoor movement of the home’s occupants and they are an ongoing cost.

It makes perfect design, cost, thermal insulation and energy efficient sense to address the areasof a home that are responsible for the most heat loss, i.e. the windows and doors.

“Shutters and blinds are the design choices of award winning architects and interior designers because of a number of factors. They can be customised to suit and enhance any opening regardless of how unusual it may be: arched, triangular or domed. They translate well in all decorating styles, from classic to contemporary. They facilitate outdoor-indoor living, allowing for uninterrupted views, maximum ventilation and light,” says Karina Palmer of American shutters.

Shutters and blinds add to a home, they also add value to a property. Due to the very décor specificnature and transience of fabric window dressings they are not considered fixtures, as are shuttersand blinds. The investment made in opting for shutters and blinds is one that is rewarded when a property is valued and or sold.

In the cooler months, perhaps the most

appreciated value of shutters and blinds is their thermal insulation and energy efficiency. Whenopened shutters and blinds allow us to capture as much of the winter sunshine during the day and when closed they work to keep that warmth locked inside.

So savour and save the winter sunshine with shutters and blinds – the most stylish prevention of heat loss due to thermal radiation, heat conduction and convection.

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designsecrets

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I love to browse furniture catalogues, especially those of international furniture manufactures. It gives me ideas and inspiration for the many furniture projects that I undertake and also keeps me on track as to the latest trends.

It’s nice to know that I can purchase timber and board, take out my power tools and make my own unique pieces of furniture.

I am sure many of you reading would love to be able to make some of the furniture we see on the Internet, and you probablycould. Let’s take a look at a few tricks

1. See beyond the design

When viewing a piece offurniture, most people only seethe outside design, but sometimes it helps to go behind the facade - to see what’s underneath and behind, and how the piece is assembled.

More often than not these days, furniture is either painted or veneer. By looking under you will be able to tell what a piece is made of and how it has been put together.

The two most common board products used for furniture manufacture are

MDF and chipboard. Of the two, MDF (or PG Bison SupaWood) is the stronger

and more durable and you can buy this board product and have it cut to size at your local Builders Warehouse.

Prices vary, but the average price for a sheet of 2700 x 1800mm of 16mm SupaWood is around R600, and that’s affordable when you think how big the sheet is and how much cutting you can get out of it.

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2. Scrutinise the detail

Many pieces of furniture are beautiful to look at and yet quite simple to replicate. A good example is the cabinet on the right.

What makes this cabinet unique is the feet and door detail, both of which are fairly easy to duplicate if you have the right tools. Strip away the detail and you are left with a basic painted cabinet.

The detail you apply to the pieces you make are what make the

difference.

I am going to share a few of my own trade secrets with you on how I would manufacture this particular piece of furniture.

1. Cabinet This is a fairly a basic design consisting of two

sides, a bottom and top as the frame. There are three doors, which means you need to have upright supports on which to mount hinges. There is also a larger panel that tops off the basic frame.

2. Feet The feet on the above cabinet have

a wonderful angled square design. They are also the easiest feet to make if you have the right power tools. Just to show you how easy, I made a leg to show you.

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1. By far the simplest and quickest way to angle the shape of the feet is to use a mitre saw. The angle is set at around 7-degrees and all four sides are cut at this same angle.

2. Using a Dremel MultiTool and large sanding disc allows you to create the curved indent at the top of each foot. Do the side edges first and then theinside area.

3. Finish off the foot with 120-grit sanding to even out any uneven areas and then 240-grit for a nice smooth finish.Use sanding paper to sand the curved area.

Here is the finished foot and it looks justas good as the original. It took me about half an hour to make, which is not bad at all.

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Creating a detailed design

I used my Dremel Trio and one of the new range of router bits to cut out the design. I didn’t do the full design - just an example to show you how you can do it yourself.

The new router bits are much better than the older bits, it cuts like a hot knife through butter and glides across the surface as it cuts. This design was actually very easy to do. If you don’t own a Dremel Trio, you could also do this with a Dremel MultiTool and engraving bit, but it would take a lot longer.

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Finishing and paintingAfter assembling your new piece of furniture you are going to want to take the time to finish properly.

I know that most people hate sanding, but it’s important to spend time on this step, especially if you want your project to look good. It’s also essential to use quality products for staining, sealing or painting a project. The last thing you want is chipped paint, warped wood or a finish that it’seasy to keep clean.

Home-Dzine trusts the Rust-Oleum range of spray products and have used these time and time again on various indoor and outdoor projects.

Home-Dzine also endorses Woodoc. While it might be slightly more expensive than other products the proof, as they say, is in the pudding!

At the end of the day it’s not about paying a little more, it’s about using a quality product that does what it’s supposed to do.

PAINTING TIPSIf, after painting, you find a few problemspots that need attention, use 1000-grit wet/dry sandpaper. Have a small container of water handy; dip the sandpaper into the water and use a soft, circular motion to rub away defects.

After spraying on second coat.

After spraying on first coat.

Thin layer of wood filler

All SupaWood is absorbent on the cut ends. If you don’t want to waste time and spray paint, apply a thin layer of wood filler to the ends to preventabsorption. Use 240-grit sandpaper to smooth once the wood filler is dry.

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quick and easy

To tie in with our latest Home-Dzine newsletter, we decided to show you how easy it is to make a dressing table. This simple designs has a few elegant curves and can easily be glammed up with mirrored mosaic tiles.

DRESSEDTO IMPRESS

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1 - 5

7 69

Use a jigsaw and fretsaw (thin) blade to cut curves in the front and back aprons.

Cut small blocks to use for attaching the legs to the

front/back and side aprons.

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It will only take you 2 hours tops to assemble our dressing table, and then all that’s left to do is to paint in your choice of finish and colour.

You will need:

1 of 400 x 1200mm - top2 of 170 x 1080mm - front/back aprons2 of 170 x 360mm - side aprons4 of 60 x 800mm - front legs4 of 40 x 800mm - side legs10 Plastic corner bracketsWood glueDrill/Driver + assorted bitsJigsaw and fretsaw (thin) blade25mm cut screwsWood filler

*For all sections use PG Bison 16mm SupaWood

Here’s how:

Making the legs1. The legs are slightly angled on one side.

To create the angled edge, measure down 150mm from the top on all 8 leg sections and draw a line across.

2. On the bottom end of the 4 front sections (60mm wide) make a pencil mark at 40mm. Draw a line from the 150mm mark to the 40mm mark.

3. On the bottom end of the 4 side sections (40mm wide) make a pencil mark at 20mm. Draw a line from the 150mm mark to the 40mm mark.

4. Place the front sections on a flatsurface, arranging them as they will be assembled. EG. The straight edge of each leg must be on the outside.

5. Run a bead of glue along the top of the outside edge and place the

straight side section on top. 20mm from the top and 10mm from the bottom screw a corner bracket in place.

Making the frame6. Measure up 20mm from the bottom

edge on both front and back aprons and draw a line across. Use a template the draw a curve at both sides - as shown on the image left. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.

7. On the front/back aprons measure in 360mm from sides and draw a line. On the middle section, measure up 20mm from the bottom edge and draw a line. Use this line to cut the middle design.

8. On the side aprons measure up 20mm from the bottom edge and draw a line across. Use a template the draw a curve at both sides - as shown on the image left. Cut along this line with a jigsaw.

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DIY Tip:Use a circular object to help you to draw the curved shape at either side of the indent.

9. Attach the legs to the front and side aprons with wood glue and small blocks screwed into place with 25mm wood screws.

10. Attach the top to the frame by placing corner brackets on the underside of the top and front/back and sides. Use 2 brackets on the front/back apron and a centrally placed bracket on the sides.

Finishing

Pay particular attention to polishing all cut edges so that paint is not absorbed too quickly.

Apply wood filler to gaps for a smooth,seamless finish. Once dry, sand with 240-grit sandpaper.

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Painting

Here’s a good tip for any painting project. If you paint with a base coat prior to spraying you use far less paint. I use leftover paint in white or cream and apply with a foam roller. Once dry, the finish is sanded with 360/400-gritsandpaper.

Do all your spray painting outdoors to avoid being overwhelmed by fumes. Don’t spray paint on a windy day or you will be spraying forever!

For the dressing table I would recommend that you use Rust-Oleum gloss enamel, only because it provides a tough, durable finish, which is what you need on a dressing table where you use a hair dryer, curling tongues, etc.

Find the complete Rust-Oleum range at your local Builders Warehouse.

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Dress it upFRAMED MIRROR

Now that you have a dressing table, you may also need a framed mirror. For this project I used tongue and groove (again), because it fits nicely around themirror and I don’t have to fiddle around the cut the groove.

Most tongue and groove planks have a 5mm deep groove, but it’s always better to double check before cutting the frame.

You will need:

2 of 1200mm lengths of tongue & grooveMirror cut to 600 x 800mmCorner braces* and 12mm screws2 of 8mm dowels 2 of 8mm cable clipsWood glueWood fillerTOOLSDrill/Driver plus assorted bitsJigsaw and clean cut blade for woodHammerWood or rubber malletMitre box and saw or mitre saw

*Builders Warehouse didn’t have stock so I substituted with T-braces.

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Here’s how:

1. When cutting the frame, measure the width and height of the mirror and then deduct the groove width from either side. EG. 600mm - 10mm (5mm groove on both sides). Do the same for the width and height.

DIY Tip:Do a test fitting to make sure all the corners fitnicely together or make any adjustments.

GOOD TO KNOWUse a wood or rubber mallet to tap the tongue & groove panel onto the glass. Starting at one end, a few light taps will do.

2. Once the frame fits nicely around, turn over and mount the corner or T-braces onto the back with 12mm screws.

3. Use a mixture and wood glue and wood filler to fill in any gaps. I prefer to mix thetwo together to prevent cracking later on.

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4. Using the framed mirror as a guide, cut two side sections. These sections should be as high as the mirror. To secure the sides you will also need two sections to attach to the front of the side panels, and a long section for the back. This will ensure that your framed mirror stands secure.

DIY Tip:The long back section must be as wide as the mirror, plus a 5mm allowance on both sides, plus the width of the base of each side section.

5. Glue all the frame sections together and allow the glue to dry before sanding the edges with 360/400-grit sandpaper to polish. I also like to apply a very thin layer of wood filler to all the cut edges. It worksas a block and prevents these edges from absorbing too much paint.

6. Apply 2 coats of Rust-Oleum Gloss Enamel in your choice of colour, allowing drying time between coats.

7. Before attaching mirror, drill one side of frame for adjustment holes. Use a wood drill bit that matches diameter of your shelf pin.

8. Measure and mark at both centre of mirror and side section. At this point, hammer a cable grip on both sides of mirror frame and drill holes on mirror frame to half the depth of the dowel. Have someone help you to hold frame secure while you mount mirror in position. To do this push a dowel through cable grip and into drilled hole on both sides.

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back

front

To set the right adjustment, insert a shelf pin in the correct hole on the frame.

I made the adjustable mirror this way because it’s a battle to try and find adjustablefittings, and this way is cheap and easy!

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Easy DIY magazine subscribers will see this project in a future issue, with additional features. The centre section will have a drawer and the dresser will be embellished in an easy way. Keep an eye out for this issue.

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designwithout limits

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The Internet offers unlimited opportunity for anyone with a small dose of creativity.

Only last week I was on the radio chatting about the importance of recycling, and how you can so easily repurpose items rather than toss them out. From this we got around to talking about the endless opportunities opening up for anyone with crafty or DIY talents. You only have to take a look at some of the online craft sites to see how many are making a profit, and a huge profit in somecases, simply by repurposing waste.

While this project doesn’t use waste, it is a good example of how you can use off cuts to design and create saleable items.

These bamboo veneer clocks are designed by DecoyLabs on Etsy and are for sale at R600 upwards. Definitelyunique but not sure I would pay that much for a clock.

Additionally, these clocks are made using a laser cutter, or CNC machine, and I want to try and make using my jigsaw. If you have a scroll saw - even better.

The point behind all this? To show you that all it takes it creativity to design and manufacture items that could establish a home-based business.

The Suitcase Chair is a prime example of how a little imagination can reap rewarding benefits.

Local designer, Katie Thompson, has taken old suitcases and transformed them into beautiful collector pieces. Selling from around R4000.00 upwards, these little travel cases are certainly seeing the world in style! www.recreate.za.net

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Here’s how:

As a first attempt I am not going to addas much detail as the original design by DecoyLab.

1. The first step is to draw out my designand transfer this onto 6mm PG Bison SupaWood. One of these days I will get my hands on some carbon paper, but in the meantime the easiest way is to rub the back of your printed copy with pencil and then turn over and press hard as you draw over the design to print onto the board.

2. The transferred design will probably be feint, but you can easily go over again with a pencil so it’s easier to see.

3. After clamping the board to my workbench I used a fretsaw blade to cut out. I call it a fretsaw blade but it’s actually a thinner blade for a jigsaw. This blade is ideal for detailed cutting. Working from the outside in, I rough cut away sections to make it easier to make the detailed cuts around the drawn design.

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As you can see from the cut out on the left, the jigsaw did a very nice job indeed. It was tricky, but only took about 15 minutes to do. You have to be very careful when moving and cutting the design, as some areas are very thin.

5. I sanded the rough edges with 120-grit sandpaper and then smoothed with 240-grit sandpaper.

6. There is a front and back design for the clock, and after cutting and sanding these need to be painted. I used Rust-Oleum 2X in blossom white to spray the front, edges and back of both sections.

DIY TIPS:

• Place the sections on a block of wood to lift them off the surface, as this allows you to spray the edges at the same time.

• Wait for each coat to dry completely before spraying on the next coat.

• Don’t hold the can closer than 30 cm from the surface, as any closer and you will end up with excess paint and runs.

• The edges need quite a few coats due to the fact that supawood is very absorbent, hold the can at an angle when spraying the edges to prevent spraying too much paint on the top surface.

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7. To mount the clock mechanism, drill a hole through the front of the front section. Place a block of wood behind to prevent the wood chipping as you drill through. The hole you drill should be the same diameter as your clock shaft.

8. Place the shaft through the drilled hole and use the fastenings that come with the clock movement to attach.

9. Since this is a battery-operated clock, you are going to need to allow for the back section to be remove for replacing the battery. Attach velcro to the back of the battery and front of the back section, so that this holds them together firmly but still allows forpulling apart easily.

On the next page you will see how my final clock looks.

Although I’m happy with the final result,I did make a second clock, and this one came out far better. Obviously the more you make the better you become!

So many families are struggling to make ends meet each month and projects like this are just one of the ways that you can put your creative talents to good use. Who knows... you may design something that becomes a collector’s piece or that everyone loves, but you won’t know until you try.

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Uttermost HarringtonPrice: $261.80 | R2000.00Features an antiqued ivory face with gentle distressing around the outer rim.

designfor profitI come across hundreds of designs for home decor accessories when researching for projects. Some of these items cost so little to make and yet are being sold at exorbitant prices. Here are just a few clock designs...

Diamantini & Domeniconi Half Time ClockPrice: $376.00 | R3000.00An unexpected evolution of the traditional cuckoo clock. The classic shape is cut in half, and the bird comes out of the side. Wood frame is lacquered in the following finishes: black, white, green and red.

Missing Time Clock by Cyber MoonPrice: $17.00 | R140.00I love it when designers play with our assumed knowledge and imagination. This twist on convention modernizes the classic clock face design.

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designerswith savvy

Practical. Durable. And the picture of authentic African style. The PPC Cement Laptop Bag puts a brand that is uniquely South African over your shoulder every time you walk out the door.

So how do we make them? An unused Pretoria Portland Cement paper bag is the beginning of each piece. Production takes a while, but it’s worth it. We separate the layers, remove the top and third layer of the bag and fuse them together. Bonding them with black cotton means that durability is never compromised. From there, you can treat it like any other fabric. We draw the pattern, cut it and stitch the bag together. The strap of the bag is cotton webbing and is completely adjustable.

The PPC Cement Laptop Bag is as practical as you can get, too. There are two sections and two pockets: carry your laptop cables in one pocket and an iPhone or mouse in the other. A padded divider separates your laptop from any other papers or notes, and the entire inside of the bag is also padded to protect everything that you carry inside it. The bag closes with two magnets discreetly hidden on the flap.

We treat the bag with Scotch Guard so you don’t have to worry about exposing it to the elements.

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Wendren Setzer was at a shoe factory ordering shoes (pumps to be specific)one random day and they were showing how they made them. Part of the procedure is to fuse the desired outer fabric to a cotton to make the fabric stronger and more suitable for the purpose. Curious as to what else this technical fabric would be used for she asked for a sample

Wendren fused it to all sorts of materials, paper being one of them. Then some time later was driving along the highway behind a cement truck and noticed the packaging, more specifically, thevery graphic elephant logo of Pretoria Portland Cement. She thought this would be fantastic to make a bag out of so got hold of some PPC packaging and experimented. It really was an opportunity, experiment and idea that all came together.

Once she had a prototype she contacted PPC for their permission to use their packaging and the rest is history.

“Inspiration is all around you, you’ve just keep your

eyes and mind open to possibilities”

http://thewrendesign.com

The story about how the PPC Cement Laptop Bag came to be is rather straight forward...R

euse - Recycle - R

epurpose

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Repurpose empty coffee tins into welcoming candleholders for an entrance or mantel. All you need is a can of spray adhesive, printed out stencil, a drill/driver

and 3mm HSS bit.

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RECLAIMED TIMBERrustic furniture

You have to like furniturethat can be made from scraps of wood and still sell out.

It’s not quite my style but there is definitely a placein the home for furniture made from reclaimed timber, whether it’s in the den, or outside on a patio.

We are a generation of waste. We continuously empty our dustbins and fillthem up again, just to pile more trash on our dumps.

So much is going to waste and timber is a valuable commodity, especially if it’s a hardwood such as saligna, oak, oregon pine, teak, etc. If you think how many years it takes a tree to reach maturity, before we come along and chop it down to make a piece of furniture, only to tire of it and throw it out - that’s waste.

Furniture that is made from reclaimed timber doesn’t have to be rustic in style.

This console table [right] features legs made from reclaimed oak barrel staves

[ via www.vinwood.co.za ]

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When you make or purchase furniture using reclaimed timber you not only enjoy its beauty and uniqueness, but you also help the environment.

Sustainable furniture is not a new idea. Many countries have refinished, re-used, andcreated furniture from weathered wood for centuries.

Reclaimed timber has a unique coloration and a natural patina. The timber usually has widely varying knot patterns, grain designs, and beautiful colours, ranging from rich greys to hints of orange and deep rust depending upon the timber species used.

Not too long ago I featured a couple of projects on Home-Dzine using reclaimed silver birch branches that had been trimmed. My projects pale in comparison to this gorgeous range of rustic furniture that uses the same materials.

ABOVE and BELOW: Silver Birch furniture from Woodland Creek (USA)

Birch bark furniture traces its roots to the Adirondack mountains in the US. Many wealthy early Americans had “great camps” located in the

pristine Adirondacks.

Local artisans built rustic furniture with birch bark panels with twigs

and other natural materials. Example of birch bark furniture can

be found in both museums and antique shops throughout the US.

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While you can’t walk into a timber merchant and ask for relcaimed timber, you can keep an eye on the classifieds, visit salvage yards and beon the lookout for pieces that are being thrown out, perhaps by family or friends. Even a visit to secondhand shops

might surprise you and you could walk out with a bargain piece made from exotic hardwoods that can be reused and repurposed in a more practical way, such as making reclaimed timber furniture for your home - indoor or outdoor.

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FINISHING RECLAIMEDTIMBER FURNITURE

Finishing and maintaining your new piece of reclaimed furniture is as easy as ‘5’, or Woodoc 5.

You want to keep the unique look of reclaimed timber but enhance the beauty, and Woodoc 5 is an absolute matt sealer that will do just that.

How to apply:

1. After you have finished sanding yourpiece, be sure to wipe it down with a cloth lightly dampened with mineral turpentine to remove all traces of dust, especially in cupboards, drawers and corners.

2. As this is reclaimed timber, the first coatwill be absorbed very quickly into the moisture-starved timber. Re-apply the firstcoat until the wood no longer absorbs the sealer and the surface remains wet for 10 minutes.

Woodoc 5 in an interior wood sealer that is lead- and formaldehyde-free.

3. Once the first coat has dried, wipe downthe surface with Woodoc Steelwool. This is necessary to ensure maximum penetration for the second coat of sealer.

4. Allow the second coat to dry completely before applying a third and final coat.

Note: Woodoc 5 should be stirred until it becomes milky in appearance. Do not shake the can, as this causes bubbles that affect penetration.

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INAUGURAL ‘TASTE OF DURBAN’ FOOD FEST COMES TO TOWN

Pick n Pay Taste of Durban in association with Orbit sugar-free chewing gum, taking place at Suncoast from Friday 27 – Sunday 29 July 2012, is destined to be the culinary event of the year.

Over three days, this unique international restaurant festival will bring together the city’s most acclaimed restaurants, prestigious chefs and carefully selected premium exhibitors to attract Durban’s most dedicated and sophisticated foodies in an outdoor fine dining celebration. Taking part in the inaugural show are Café1999, Hartford House, 9th Avenue Bistro, Havana Grill, Little Havana, Jewel of India, Simply Asia, Versailles and Max’s Lifestyle Tavern. Added to the extraordinary line up of chefs you’ll also have the opportunity to sip and sample an array of the very best of wine, beer, cocktails and delicious foodie produce Durban has to offer whilst you shop your way around the festival. If you love eating out this is an opportunity too good to miss.

Sit back and relax at the Pick n Pay Fresh Living Chef’s Theatre where top chefs will showcase their culinary skills in fun and informative cooking demonstrations, culinary challenges, entertaining tutorials. Or try your hand at making canapés at the hands on Pick n Pay Wine and Canapé Experience.

www.tasteofdurban.co.za or www.itickets.co.zawww.tasteofdurban.co.za or www.itickets.co.za

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food fun

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Keen to make lamb so tender it melts off the bone and into your heart? The tagine is the matriarch of the slow-cooker family and with its distinct shape, ensures that your meat is packed with flavour and mouth-wateringly tender.

The sloped, cool walls of a tagine create the perfect surface for converting rising steam into condensation which returns to the bottom of the dish keeping meat moist.

LAMB TAGINE AND COUSCOUS

Ingredients – serves 6

1/4 cup flour1 tsp cayenne pepper2 tsp ground black pepper2 Tbsp paprika2 Tbsp ground ginger2 Tbsp turmeric2 tsp ground cinnamonShoulder of lamb, trimmed and cut into 5cm chunks (approximately 1.1kg meat)5 Tbsp olive oil2 large onions, chopped2 large carrots, chopped2 sticks celery, chopped3 cloves garlic, crushed2 x 400g tinned chopped tomatoes200g dried apricots, cut in half55g dates, cut in half55g sultanas or raisins500ml lamb or beef stock2 Tbsp clear honey85g flaked almonds, toastedCoriander and couscous, to serve

1. Preheat oven to 180 °C.

2. Place flour, seasoning and spices into asmall bowl and mix. Place lamb in a large bowl and toss together with the spice mix.

3. Heat 2 Tbsp olive oil in tagine base on stove top. Add carrots, onions and celery and cook over a gentle heat for 10 minutes until onions are soft but not coloured. Add crushed garlic for the final 3 minutes.

4. In a separate frying pan, heat remaining oil and brown cubes of lamb on all sides, then add browned meat to tagine. De-glaze frying pan with tomatoes and add these juices to the tagine too.

5. Add apricots, dates, sultanas, lamb stock and honey to tagine.

6. Bring to boil, cover with lid and place in oven to cook for 2-2.5 hours or until meat is meltingly tender.

7. Sprinkle on coriander and flaked almondsand serve with couscous.

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A tajine, or tagine is a Berber dish from North Africa, that is named after the special earthenware pot in which it is cooked. The traditional tagine pot is formed entirely of a heavy clay, which is sometimes painted or glazed. It consists of two parts: a base unit that is flat and circular with low sides, and

a large cone or dome-shaped cover that sits on the base during cooking. The cover is so designed to promote the return of all condensation to

the bottom. With the cover removed, the base can be taken to the table for serving.

Tagines in Moroccan cuisine are slow-cooked stews braised at low temperatures, resulting in tender meat with aromatic vegetables and sauce. They are traditionally cooked in the tagine pot, the conical cover which has

a knob-like handle at its top to facilitate removal. While simmering, the cover can be lifted off without the

aid of a mitten, enabling the cook to inspect the main ingredients, add vegetables, mix the contents, or add additional braising liquid.

Most tagines involve slow simmering of less-expensive meats. For example, the ideal cuts of lamb are

the neck, shoulder or shank cooked until it is falling off the bone.

wikipedia

Make Simmering traditional North African dishes with meat, poultry, vegetables and fish

The combination of meats (lamb, beef, chicken), sweet vegetables (carrots,

tomatoes, aubergines) and fruits (lemon, dates, oranges) is very typical of North African cookery and provides a natural sweetness to many dishes. The sweetness is offset by the use of plenty of spices and cayenne pepper.

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New Vitrex Tiling Tool rangeCompleting tiling installations has just become a whole lot easier with the new Vitrex Tiling Tool range, exclusively available from Builders Warehouse and Builders Express.

The Vitrex range has everything you need to get that tiling job done. It has tools for cutting, shaping, fixing and finishingand ensures a hassle-free tiling installation and professional workmanship. Plus, Vitrex Tiling Tools are easy to use and with ergonomically designed grips, you’ll have a comfortable hold when using these nifty tools.

For the first time in South Africa, Vitrex is introducing theLash Spacer, an easy to use self-levelling spacer that always stays level so that you can lay tiles evenly.

The high-absorbing grouting sponge with rounded edges cleans grout perfectly without leaving streaks and uneven lines. It also assists with not wetting the grout excessively when cleaning off the surplus grout.

The range also features a handy profile gauge to help you tocut a tile in a shape that is not easy to measure, such as the semicircle at the foot of the toilet. The profile gauge assistsyou to cut the tile in the exact size you need it to ensure your tiling job looks perfect.

Vitrex Tiling Tools are distributed by TAL, the tiling professionals.

vitrex giveawayWe’ve got 5 Vitrex Tiling Starter Kits up for grabs!

Send us an email and tell us where you can buy the new Vitrex Tiling Tool range.

Mail to: home-dzine@iburst.co.za and remember to include your full name, daytime contact number and address.

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gardening delightsWe have passed the half-way mark for winter, which means that spring is only a couple of months away. South Africans are a lucky lot indeed when it comes to beautiful weather and spending time outdoors.

But spending time outdoors is sometimes limited to a small, pocket-sized courtyard that lacks appeal and is the last place you feel like spending time.

In this feature we’re going to show you a few ways to transform that small, unattractive space into a wonderful oasis where you want to spend a few hours soaking up the fresh air and sunshine.

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What’s underfoot in your courtyard makes a big difference.

If the area hasn’t already been paved or concrete poured, it’s easy to install your own informal paving, and it can make a big difference to the overall appearance of the space.

Stone, cement or bricks cobbles are laid on a level surface and can also be laid over concrete that is still in good condition.

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If you can to put down paving bricks or cobbles, remove any grasses and rake until level. Raking also brings stones to the surface and these need to be removed as well. Put down a 2 to 3mm thick layer of sharp river sand and level this with a straightedge, or long, straight plank of wood. Now you are ready to start laying the pavers. You will find plenty of instructions on the

website for similar projects.

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Add an interesting feature

When you start designing your new courtyard, be sure to include an interesting feature. It might be nice to incorporate a small water feature that not only looks good, but also helps to mask any trafficnoise if the courtyard is close to a road.

If space allows, lush planting also blocks out surrounding sound to create a tranquil haven for relaxation.

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Plants and hardscape combined provide interest and texture. In a small courtyard you can incorporate a few small beds and plant these with contrasting colours and foliage.

Creating privacy is important if you reside in a townhouse complex where units overlook your garden. A screen of small trees will not only block off nosey neighbours, they will also create a more lush environment and serve to block off sound.

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Designing or landscaping a courtyard garden will basically follow the same design rules as a small garden, with more emphasis placed on vertical space.

Most courtyards are small and feel cramped and by adding height around the perimeter, it creates the illusion of a lofty space that feels larger than it actually is., making the eye go upwards.

Keep it green. If your courtyard needs a touch of green, think about adding artificial turf.Believe it or not this product is considered reasonably green; no watering, no fertilising, no cutting - all of which make artificial turf aneco choice for small gardens.

Bright garden designer, Amir Schlezinger, designs and build gardens throughout London. His main plan is to create beautiful yet highly liveable, social spaces, which isn’t easy when living in the centre of a large, metropolitan city. We could take more than a few tips from some of his projects.

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Be creative, use your

imagination, have fun!

Homemade Sparkling Play Dough Recipe

Summer is still a couple of months away and when the days are too cold the play outside, here’s a fun project from Celebrations.com to keep the kids occupied in-side!

You will need:2 cups all-purpose flour1 cup salt2 cups water1 Tablespoon oil1 teaspoon cream of tartarfood colouringglitter

1. Add food colouring to water for easiest, even distribution. This is especially helpful if you’re using a gel or paste food colouring.

2. Place flour, salt, coloured water,oil, and cream of tartar in a large saucepan. Cook over medium high heat, stirring constantly, until it turns into play dough.

3. Turn dough out onto the counter to let sit until it’s cool enough to knead. Flatten a bit on the counter, and sprinkle generously with glitter. Knead the glitter into the play dough. If you want more sparkle, repeat this step.

4. Store in an airtight container. One batch of this recipe filled four jam-jars perfectly.

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If you are planning a child’s birthday party, this is a fun way to keep guests occupied, and you can make up small jars of sparkling play dough to give everyone as party favours.

Tradewind Tiaras made up a batch of glittery play dough for a Star Wars-themed party.

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IF YOU ARE TACKLING ANY TYPE OF DECORATING, HOME IMPROVEMENT OR DIY PROJECT - WE WANT TO KNOW! IN FACT, WE WANT TO SHARE YOUR PROJECT AND ENTER YOU INTO THE QUARTERLY DRAW FOR BOSCH, SKILL AND DREMEL TOOL HAMPERS.

ALL YOU HAVE TO DO IS USE YOUR BOSCH, SKIL OR DREMEL TOOLS TO MAKE, REPAIR OR INSTALL AND SEND US A FEW ‘BEFORE’ AND ‘AFTER’ PICS. THEN TELL US HOW YOU TACKLED THE PROJECT.

SEND IMAGES AND DETAILS TO: home-dzine@iburst.co.za

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TAKE A LOOK AT OUR SCHEDULE FOR 2012

More great projects for you to make and take homeBeginners & Advanced Workshops

Basic Electrical and Plumbing WorkshopsSoul Sisters for our Cape Town DIY Divas

Basic WeldingCareer Workshops

Every Saturday morning from 09:00 to 12:00at a venue near you.

www.DIY-DIVAS.co.za