the o f f i c i a l m ag a z i n e f or h e athrow | w i n t er 2 0 10

T r a v e l l e rheaThrow

present perfect heathrow gift guide house party the top places to gather friends & family euro zone Business in madrid & paris

pLus: heston Blumenthals alps + copenhagen + whisky & port + foodies edinBurgh

celebrating the history of Moscow and st petersburg

to russia with Love

All ights detailed are direct

routes from Heathrow, except

where specied.

Throughout the magazine

weve shown, where relevant,

the Airport Price together

with the High Street price*.

Savings do not apply to

products for which no price

comparison is displayed.

Where you see products

at an Airport Price, all

passengers, ying to all

destinations, can buy at

these prices, apart from

selected liquor lines which

are only available to those

ying outside the EU.

Passengers travelling to nal

destinations outside the EU

may be requested to pay tax

on purchases on arrival at your

destination and/or if you bring

them back with you when

returning to the UK.

Go to heathrow.com for the

most up-to-date shopping

information and contact

details for individual stores.

All prices correct at time of

going to press. Some products

featured in this magazine are

of limited availability in airport

stores. Contact stores in

advance to check availability.

Keep track of the

WorldPoints you can earn

at the airport: go to

baaworldpoints.com.

Heathrow Traveller is published on behalf of

BAA Airports Ltd by Show Media Ltd, 1-2

Ravey Street, London EC2A 4QP. All rights

reserved. Reproduction in whole or in part is

prohibited without prior written permission

of the copyright owner. No responsibility will

be accepted for any errors or omissions, or

comments made by writers or interviewees.

Views expressed are not necessarily the

views of BAA Airports Ltd, and services and

goods advertised are not necessarily

endorsed by BAA Airports Ltd. All prices and

information correct at time of going to press.

Where there are price variations by terminal

or location the highest is shown.

* Savings in World Duty Free stores are

compared to the notional UK high street price,

this being the average of prices from

a survey of several high street stores. Details

of these stores and individual prices are

available on request.

W e l c o m e

This festive edition of

Heathrow Traveller is all

about celebrating family

and spending time with

the ones you love.

From cosying up reside in a

warm and welcoming hotel,

to heading for some sun (or

snow) in our group holiday

round-up, there are plenty of

ways to make sure you spend

the holidays with the right

people, in the right place.

Heathrow Traveller s top

destination this issue is

Russia, subject of an

in-depth look into the

architectural, cultural and

gourmet highlights of

Moscow and St Petersburg.

Not forgetting that

Christmas is about giving, we

have nine pages of perfect

presents for every person in

your life, with even a designer

collar for the dog.

Enjoy festive avours

with Heston Blumenthals

paean to gourmet Italian

skiing and our celebration of

Christmas food available at

Heathrow no need to miss

out on turkey and Brussels

sprouts this year, wherever

youre spending the holidays.

Lucy Teasdale, Editor

Shopping

& Travel

info

publiShed by

ShoW media lTd 020 3222 0101

www.showmedia.net

Editor Lucy Teasdale

Art Director Martin Perry

Associate Editor Chris Madigan

Designer Hillary Jayne

Sub Editors Sarah Evans, Gill Wing

Picture Editor Jim Taylor

Staff Writer Sarah Deeks

Intern Holly Whittaker

Heathrow Marketing Julia Gillam

Editorial Director

Joanne Glasbey

Creative Director

Ian Pendleton

Managing Director

Peter Howarth

For advertising enquiries:

Julia Pasaron 020 8741 8967

Colour reproduction

FMG wearefmg.com

Printing

Southern Print wyndeham.co.uk 4 CoRNERS

30

63

60

Danny BirD

C o n t e n t s

travel JournalNews from the airport and

around the world

12 Travel news

The babymoon phenomenon,

ice skating trips, an insiders

Copenhagen and more

18 Gourmet travel

The excellence of Edinburghs

food: from chippies to

Michelin-starred chefs

20 Home comforts

Cosy hotels around the world

to snuggle up in this winter

22 Drinks

On the banks of the Douro

river, Porto is a beautiful city

whose history is entwined

with its famous port wine

24 Entertainment

England cricketer ian Bells

DVDs and games for the

ashes tour; plus new books

DestinationThis seasons big travel ideas

26 The big picture

a British photographer, a

British extreme skier and a

cli in British Columbia

29 Postcard from

Heston Blumenthal, whos

found a favourite restaurant

in the shadow of Mont Blanc

30 Share options

if youre planning a big

gathering of family or friends,

here are 15 of the worlds

most characterful and

spacious properties to rent

36 Comment

How alain de Botton decided

he should stop lecturing

people about boring

architectural nostalgia and

build modern holiday homes

38 The Russian fascination

The vivid history and vivacious

contemporary style of

Moscow and St Petersburg

42 Moving map

Celebrate good times around

the planet, from Christmas

markets in Germany to the

new year in China

the loungeSeasonal special: your guide to

great gift ideas at Heathrow

46 Luxe lover

Stylish watches and jewellery,

gorgeous accessories and

famous fashion names

48 Sun seeker

Presents for those heading for

the beach: e-books, shades,

fragrances and bags

50 On the move

For frequent iers: smart

businesswear, cool gadgets

and knock-em-dead shoes

52 Family traveller

Gifts for the whole clan: kids,

teens, Grandma and not

forgetting Mum and Dad

City sprintTips and accoutrements for

the business traveller

54 Madrid

The Spanish capital shrugs o

the maana myth to become

one of Europes most dynamic

business destinations

59 The new Paris

Many of the top rms in the

city of lights have moved to

the suburbs but Parisian

style has followed them

60 Sloping o

Sneak in a cheeky ski weekend

on a work trip to Zrich

61 Whisky galore

invaluable tips for choosing

the right dram for you

DeparturesLife at the airport and key

Heathrow information

63 Travel product awards

The winners as voted for by

Heathrows passengers

64 Airport news

Find out how you can get

even more out of your

journey through Heathrow

66 A day in the life

of one of the key gures who

help Heathrow run smoothly

68 Food & drink

a guide to the Christmas

foodie treats available at

the airport right now

70 Maps & directory

Getting around Heathrow

74 Final call

a famous face captured by

Heathrows resident snapper

12

T r av e l J o u r n a l d e s t i n at i o n i d e a s h o t e l s

s k i i n j a pa n / a l p i n e c o c k ta i l s / n e w y e a r , n e w y o u

n e w s f rom a rou n d t h e G l ob e

All Nippon Airways, British Airways, Japan

Airlines and Virgin AIrways y to Tokyo, for

connections to Hokkaido

British Airways and Swiss International

Airlines y direct to Zurich British Airways ies direct to Mexico City

AprS-SkI IN ST ANToN

fIrST-eVer AlpINe CoCkTAIl week

Award-winning spirit distiller Sipsmith

and luxury travel operator Scott Dunn

are launching the rst Alpine Cocktail

Week, 20-27 March 2011. After a day

on the slopes, choose from Fire & Ice,

the Hot Shot, O-Piste Gimlet or Winter

Negroni. From 1,715 per person which

includes accommodation at Chalet

Bodensee in St Anton and return British

Airways ights from Heathrow to Zurich.

BoVey CASTle BooTCAMp

luxury weIgHT-loSS reTreAT

Repenting for Christmas indulgence will

be easier than ever from January, with

the launch of the Bovey Castle Weight

Loss Academy (+44-844 474 0088 ;

weightlossacademy.com), led by the

personal trainer and bestselling author

Simon Lovell and dietician and the

psychotherapist Karen Chugg. The

400 acres of Dartmoor National Park

provide a dramatic and inspiring

backdrop to kick-start a new you for

2011. Fees start from 1,997.

uNITed NATIoNS ApproVed food

CulTure IN A TorTIllA

Mexican food has become the rst

national cuisine to be named a UNESCO

Intangible Heritage of Humanity the

cultural version of a World Heritage

Site as it combines Spanish, Aztec

and Mayan inuences. Its no surprise

to Heathrow Traveller in the last issue,

chef Valentine Warner called Mexico

Citys markets eyepopping. Cox & Kings

(coxandkings.co.uk) runs tours of the

country, culture and food to the fore.

perfeCT powder IN JApAN

HokkAIdo SkI-IN SkI-ouT reSorT

For a guaranteed white winter, savvy

skiers are heading to Green Leaf Niseko

Village in Hokkaido, Japan, for YTL Hotels

Perfect Powder Package. Enjoy views

of Mount Yotei and the Mount Annupuri

slopes from your suite in this chic,

family-friendly, ski-in ski-out resort.

The rooftop garden, Altitude, serves

cocktails from sunset to sunrise.

From 255 per person for two nights,

1 December 2010 to 30 April 2011.

s c e n t s o f o c c a s i o n Lu x u r y p e r f ume emp o r i um J o M a l o n e h a s o p e ne d a s t a n d -a l o n e s t o r e i n Te r m i n a l 4 . Aw a k e n y o u r s e n s e s a n d m i x y o u r o w n s i g n a t u r e

s c e n t a t i t s b r a n d -n ew Ta s t i n g B a r .

C o p e n h a g e nThe lowdown on the Danish capital

[ T H E I N S I D E R ]

T r av e l J o u r n a l D E S T I N aT I o N I D E a S H o T E l S

w o N D E R f u l , w o N D E R f u l C o p E N H a g E N / b a b y m o o N S

14

getty im

ages

Words Emily Mathieson, of Cond Nast Traveller, and Lydia Gard

Pregnancy has only one sure

outcome friends, family and

complete strangers will subject

you to a relentless torrent of

unsought opinions. and yet no

one tells you the most pressing

fact you will never oat idly in an

innity pool, book a mid-morning

spa treatment or snooze with

the sunday supplements again.

However, ever keen to ll a niche,

luxury hotels are ahead of the

curve, cannily oering babymoon

packages for expectant couples in

need of a bit of pre-emptive R&R.

During the second trimester,

long haul is a doddle (unlike travel

with a toddler in tow). Just be sure

to observe one rule: short transfers.

Chic, seven-bedroom sri Lankan

hotel Reef Villa is just 40 minutes

south of Colombo. Herbal-oil oral

baths and facials for her; energising

massages for him; an exquisite

suite in lush, tropical gardens for

both (from 230 per room per

night, reefvilla.com). taj exotica

Resort & spa, in the maldives (just

15 minutes by speedboat from

male) epitomises relaxation and

romance. Private dining on the

beach, check. sunset cruise, tick.

Couple massage? Oh, go on then

(from 1,800 for 3 nights, tajhotels.

com). in Cape town (read: no jet lag),

Camps Bay Retreats mother-to-be

package includes a massage to

combat tension and heavy legs, a

facial and a mani-pedi, meaning

plenty of time to contemplate your

(growing) navel (from 1,950pp for

7 nights, toescapeto.com). at Parrot

Cay, on the Caribbean islands of

turks and Caicos, a three-night hit

of instant relaxation includes a

pre-natal massage and a private

yoga session for two (from 1,878

for 3 nights, parrotcay.como.bz).

[ t r a v e l t r e n d ]

f r o m h e r e t o m at e r n i t yThe hotels offering pampering pregnancy packages

The Nimb (nimb.dk; doubles from 294). opened

in the Tivoli Gardens in 2008 and quickly became

one of Europes top hotels, with a Michelin-

starred restaurant and plenty of Scandi-cool

glam. Christian Abenth is head concierge

a I R p o R T S C R E E N I N g F o l l o w i n g T 5 s r e c e n t a p p e a r a n c e o n T h e A p p r e n t i c e ,

H e a t h r o w n o w p l a y s h o s t t o T- M o b i l e s l a t e s t f l a s h - m o b s p e c t a c l e , f e a t u r i n g 3 0 0

p e r f o r m e r s w e l c o m i n g v i s i t o r s t o L o n d o n w i t h s o n g ( y o u t u b e . c o m / l i f e s f o r s h a r i n g) .

British Airways and SAS y to Copenhagen

Which is the citys best restaurant?

Noma (noma.dk), but its almost impossible to

get a table. instead, try Fiskebaren (skebaren.

dk), an excellent sh restaurant, or mother

(mother.dk).

Wheres good for a fancy drink?

Ruby (rby.dk) theres no sign outside, so it has

a speakeasy feel. 1105 (1105.dk) and salon 39

(salon39.dk) are also good for cocktails.

Where can we get a retail x?

Casa (casashop.dk) sells Danish homeware.

For cool fashion from independent designers,

head to the Kbmagergade and gothersgade.

Where can you get the best view of the city?

Climb up the spiral spire of the Church of Our

saviour (vorfrelserskirke.dk).

What should every visitor do at least once?

Walk along the harbour all the way from

Christiansborg to the Little mermaid statue.

And a favourite local activity?

Cycling out to islands Brygge (iceland Quay).

Where can we escape the tourists?

in Nrrebro theres a street called

Jaegersborggade, which has great art shops.

What about a day out of the city?

Head up the coast to the Louisiana museum

of modern art (louisiana.dk).

Tell us a secret

Not many visitors know about the Copenhagen

Winter Jazz Festival (28 Jan6 Feb; jazz.dk).

16

To book your ight and hotel to any of these destinations go to heathrow.com/y

Words Janette Griffiths

v a n c o u v e r / o t t o w a / q u b e c / c o l o r a d o / n e w y o r k

T r av e l J o u r n a l I c e S k a t I n g

OTTAWAIn the capital, Ottawa,

the locals even skate to

work on the Rideau

Canal, the worlds

longest man-made

skating trail. In winter,

the canal looks like a

modern-day version of

one of those old Dutch

paintings stalls along

the ice sell food and

drink, the turrets of the

parliament providing a

theatrical backdrop.

COLORADOIf Canada, has the

longest trail, their

American neighbours

werent going to be

outdone. Keystone Lake,

at the centre of one of

the most popular ski

resorts in Colorado,

spans ve acres and is

the biggest Zamboni-

maintained (smoothed

with an ice resurfacing

machine), outdoor rink in

North America.

vAnCOuveRI wish I had a river to

skate away on, goes

Canadian Joni Mitchells

plaintive song, written

when stuck in hot and

sticky LA one Christmas.

These days she lives in

Vancouver, British

Columbia, from where

a cable car takes you

up Grouse Mountain

to a skating rink so

picturesque, it is like

a Christmas card.

neW YORKSkating against a wintry

Manhattan backdrop has

been a romantic rite of

passage for lovers both

on and o screen for

years Central Parks

Wollman Rink featured in

Love Story, while, in a

modern classic, Elf,

besotted Buddy (Will

Ferrell) and Jovie (Zooey

Deschanel) skate at the

Rockefeller Center on

their rst date.

QuBeCFrench Canadians often

celebrate ice and snow,

and at no time more

enthusiastically than

during the Qubecs

Winter Carnival (28

January to 13 February).

Locals and visitors

skate on the Patinoire

dYouville, which is

surrounded by 17th-

and 18th-century

buildings straight out

of a fairy tale.

Ice work if you can get itFrozen North American destinations where youll need no

encouragement to get your skates on

f o o d S a f a r I H e a t h r o w r e s t a u r a n t g i r a f f e ( t 1 , t 5 ) l a u n c h e s t h e

g i r a f f e f a m i l y c o o k b o o k : g l o b a l f a m i l y f o o d ( 1 4 . 9 9 a t w H S m i t h

i n a l l t e r m i n a l s ) . e x p e c t h e a l t h y r e c i p e s f r o m a r o u n d t h e w o r l d .

*Yours with the purchase of any two or more Clinique products, one to be skin care. One gift per client, while stocks last.

Available from 25 November until 11 December 2010.

Take home your Beauty Gift.* Today.

Visit Clinique in any Heathrow Terminal for your Skin Consultation and receive your free* Gift.

Venison with chanterelles

at Atrium. Below: Finest

Scottish smoked salmon

18

T r av e l J o u r n a l G o u r m e t t r av e l

G r e at s c o t s c u i s i n e / f e s t i v e f e a s t s

{ t h e a u t h e n t i c t a s t e o f . . . }

Edinburgh As we approach Hogmanay,Scotlands fantastic produce,and a city full of passionatechefs, comes into its own

British Airways and bmi y direct to Edinburgh

The clich about Scottish cuisine

goes that its all just deep-fried

haggis and Mars bars, with maybe

smoked salmon for the posh.

yet Edinburgh boasts more Michelin-

starred restaurants than any British city

barring London in fact, ve more than

Wales and Northern ireland combined.

That said, the city is far from ashamed

of a sh supper woe betide anyone

who suggests they do not make the

best in the world. Even Martin Wishart,

the rst of those Michelin-starred chefs,

is a fan, applying his seasonal, locally

sourced ingredients mantra by saying

that a poke o chips is at its best in the

autumn, when the tatties are freshest.

For the best sh supper, residents

of the New Town swear by Lalba DOro

(Henderson Street); while, for deep-

fried haggis, chocolate bars and pizzas,

head late to Caf Piccante (Broughton

Street), which is licensed and has a DJ.

youll have spotted that italian names

dominate. Mary Contini is a food writer

and historian, as well as director of

Valvona & Crolla (valvonacrolla.co.uk)

deli, caf, Edinburgh institution. She

explains: Many italians emigrated in

the 1890s to escape poverty and

conscription. They were shepherds who

made ricotta, so knew about dairy, and,

when driving sheep to market,

theyd deep-fry food.

Those skills led them

to set up ice cream

and shnchip shops

in Scotland.

One of the ports

of entry was Leith.

it has developed like many docklands,

declining with the shipping industry

in the 20th century, before rising again

as the location of luxury ats and

waterside restaurants such as Martin

Wishart (martin-wishart.co.uk).

i use classic French techniques with

local ingredients, he says. The historic

connection with France,

through Mary Queen of

Scots, has meant

Scottish cooking

has used a lot of

braising, casseroles,

and terminology

such as a gigot of lamb even though

we pronounce it jiggut, not zhigoh.

The auld alliance is evident in dishes

such as roast grouse larmagnac en

cocotte, with braised cabbage, salsify,

pomme cocotte and sauce albert,

though perhaps the inuence is more

family Roux than Bonnie Prince Charlie.

One of Wisharts signature dishes is

smoked salmon with soused cucumber

and konbu vinegar, which, despite the

Japanese ingredients, is a throwback

to his childhood. My father grew up in

the Hebrides and, every Christmas,

my cousins in Stornoway would send

Martin Wishart

54 The Shore, Leith; 0131 553 3557

Michelin-starred food served in a warm,

friendly, fun atmosphere.

Valvona & Crolla (above)

19 Elm Row; 0131 556 6066

Delicious coee and cakes, best breakfasts

in town and one of Britains best delis

Atrium

10 Cambridge Street; 0131 228 8882

No-fuss Scottish dishes made with skill

Rhubarb

Priesteld Road, 0131 225 1333

Sumptuous dishes, decadent surroundings

B e s t o f t h e B u r G h

Heathrow Traveller 19

gETTy iM

agES

C o C o a - l o C oc h o c o h o l i c s n o l o n G e rn e e d f o r e G o t h e i r f i xw h i l e i n f o r e i G n c l i m e s

Words Holly Whittaker

Words Chris Madigan

Recchiuti Confections, San Francisco, USA

Michael Recchiutis unique creations include

Lemon Verbena and Tarragon grapefruit.

recchiuti.com

BA, American Airlines, Virgin Atlanic

Chocolate Research Facility, Singapore

This hip shop-cum-caf takes chocolate

combinations seriously. its asian avours

include ginseng, red bean, and black

sesame. chocolateresearchfacility.com

BA, Qantas, Singapore Airlines

The Abastos Market, Oaxaca, Mexico

Dip churros into a cup of dark-chocolate

champurrado at one of the artisan chocolate

stalls at Oaxacas lively abastos Market.

British Airways

a whole smoked salmon to us. Now

i have wild salmon sent down and get

it smoked the way i remember it, with

that really intense avour.

another Scottish classic is cullen

skink, which youll nd on the menu

at atrium (atriumrestaurant.co.uk).

Executive chef Neil Forbes says, its a

one-pot wonder of smoked haddock,

leeks, potatoes, milk, cream and herbs.

Forbes sources ingredients from

dozens of specialist suppliers. atriums

Perthshire beef breeder also supplies

Caf St Honor (cafesthonore.com).

its braised Scotch beef blade is

slow-cooked till it is as tender as a steak.

youll see plenty of game on most

Edinburgh menus. after the glorious

12th of august, until spring, theres a

ready supply of pheasant, partridge

and grouse. Lasting king of Scotland

cuisine, venison is a favourite at The

Witchery, on the Royal Mile (thewitchery.

com), a favourite among those wanting

traditional dishes such as haggis (an

underrated, spicy and oaty treat).

The Witcherys sister restaurant,

Rhubarb, at the Prestoneld House hotel

(prestoneld.com) on the edge of the

city, also serves game miniature rabbit

pies, followed by braised haunch and

roast loin of roe deer. The restaurant is

so named because this was the rst

place in Britain where rhubarb seeds

from China were planted in the 18th

century. The resultant crumble is both

sweet and sharp, with a crunchy

shortbread topping.

another dessert, cranachan

raspberries, toasted oats, honey and

whisky-laced cream could be the most

dening Scottish dish, not least because

it appeals to the local sweet tooth.

Valvonna & Crolla recently opened a caf

inside Jenners department store on

Princes Street. Mary Contini says, The

idea was to showcase Scottish foods.

and what do customers get most excited

about? Soor plooms [sour plum boiled

sweets] and Tunnocks tea cakes.

However, Edinburgh has become a

foodie haven in the past decade. if youre

staying in a self-catered apartment,

shop at the farmers market (Saturdays,

9am-2pm) on Castle Terrace. Theres

been a market there for 1,000 years,

says Forbes, and it still looks medieval

pigs roasting, oysters and game for

sale and me and my sta carrying sides

of mutton back to the restaurant!

He will be one of the chefs cooking

live at the Foodies at Christmas festival

(assembly Rooms, 3-5 December,

foodiesfestival.com). itll be all about

keeping our traditions alive, he says.

How to prepare game, make your own

oatcakes to eat with cheese, and so on.

Martin Wishart is sharing his passion,

too. He has a state-of-the-art cookery

school (cookschool.co.uk), with small

classes for one-to-one attention. im

delighted Edinburgh has so many great

chefs now, he says, before turning to

inspect some freshly delivered ceps.HT

Stay at The Sheraton Grand Hotel

(sheratonedinburgh.co.uk). From 179 a

night. The Knight Residence (theknight

residence.co.uk) oers ve-star serviced

apartments from 189 a night.

120

As the nights draw in, followthe lure of a crackling re,

warming food and a soft bedto one of these cosy hotels

{ h o t e l s }

Homecomforts

Words Lotte Jeffs

T r av e l J o u r n a l w i n t e r b o l t h o l e s

pa r i s / b e i j i n g / p o r t l a n d / b e r l i n / d u b l i n / s t o c k h o l m

3. Ace HoTel, PorTlAnd,

UniTed sTATes

This eco-chic hotel is gloriously rough

around the edges and all the better

for it. Vintage, re-used, pre-loved

whatever you call it, the Ace has style

in spades. From re-upholstered sofas to

army-surplus gear, it makes great use

of recycled objects, setting them amid

contemporary art to eclectic eect.

Dine in the Clyde Common restaurant,

which serves good, casual food.

acehotel.com/portland

American Airlines, continental,

delta, United Airlines

1. HoTel dU PeTiT MoUlin,

PAris, FrAnce

Designer Christian Lacroixs fabulously

eccentric hotel in a 17th-century former

boulangerie in Paris is as amboyant

as it is charming. Its 17 rooms are each

decorated to represent a dierent facet

of the local area, and are rich in warm

colours, luxurious textures and unique

prints. The hotels wood-panelled

caf-bar is the ideal spot to sip a hot

chocolate after a day spent browsing

Le Marais boutiques.

hotelpetitmoulinparis.com

Air France, British Airways

2. dUGe coUrTyArd BoUTiqUe HoTel,

BeijinG, cHinA

This hideaway in the heart of Beijing

is a sanctuary of chic Chinese elegance

that mixes modern designer touches

with ancient traditions. Its tiny White

Russian bar sits snugly in the central

courtyard, emitting an irresistible glow

on winter evenings, and beckoning

guests with one of its eponymous

cocktails. This really is one of the most

intimate, stylish and well-serviced

boutique hotels in all Beijing.

dugecourtyard.com

Air china, British Airways

23

654

Heathrow Traveller 21

1. Htel du Petit Moulin, Paris

2. Duge Courtyard Boutique

Hotel, Beijing 3. Ace Hotel,

Portland 4. Ackselhaus,

Berlin 5. Dylan Hotel, Dublin

6. Hotel J, Stockholm

4. AckselHAUs, Berlin, GerMAny

Live like a local in Prenzlauer Berg,

one of Berlins coolest areas. The eight

apartments, bedsits and rooms at

Ackselhaus, a 19th-century townhouse,

are thematically furnished. Choose

Afrika Delux for a cosy winter stay

its all wooden oorboards, animal-print

rugs, heavy drapes, soft lighting and

earthy tones. Tuck in to a hearty

breakfast in the Club del Mar restaurant,

which overlooks the hotels pretty,

secluded rear garden.

ackelhaus.de

British Airways, lufthansa

5. dylAn HoTel, dUBlin, irelAnd

With its high ceilings, dramatic furniture

and eur-de-lis ourishes, this Dublin

hotspot might seem a little on the grand

side, but thanks to its laidback Irish

attitude, the Dylan is a luxurious place

for a cosy winter city break. Curl up next

to the re in the library or indulge in the

ambience of the candlelit restaurant.

For a real home from home, snuggle

under the covers, order popcorn and ice

cream from room service and watch a

movie on the large plasma-screen TV.

dylan.ie

Aer lingus, bmi

6. HoTel j, sTockHolM, sweden

Escape the hustle and bustle at this

calm, simply sophisticated Swedish

design hotel. With a magnicent view

over Stockholm harbour, the J is just a

short bus, car, or best boat ride from

all the downtown action. Its 45 rooms

are decorated in a boat-house style

that looks as if all its missing is a couple

of Ralph Lauren models. All have

great views and the larger ones have

balconies. While away the hours by the

re, admiring the panoramic sea vistas.

eng.hotelj.com

British Airways, sAs

22

Fortied town

t h e c i t y w i t h a p a s s i o n f o r p o r t

T r av e l J o u r n a l p o r t o

The discovery that adding brandy to wine meant that you could ship it around theworld for ever sealed Portos reputation as the birthplace of the ruby liquid

Dows, cockburns emblazoned on

their roof. meanwhile, on the riverbank

are moored several barcos rabelos

boats that traditionally transported

barrels of port from the vineyards, now

used for sightseeing trips.

port is made from a blend of grapes

including the tiny, inky-black touriga

Nacional, the fruity Franca and vibrant,

fresh tinta roriz, the portuguese name

for tempranillo all of which thrive in

the remote, arid Upper Douro. any plant

that grows there has to be robust, and

the vines that can hack it produce low

yields that result in formidable wines.

that such raried wines became a

favourite british digestif is down to a

discovery of disputed origin that adding

brandy to wine would allow it to keep

longer, so it could be shipped to britain,

an ally in wars with France and favoured

trading partner. as far back as 1670,

Arrival in Porto doesnt leave much

room for doubt that the port wine

trade is still important to this city.

checking into your hotel, you may well

be oered a glass of the ruby liquid.

and then, when you climb torre dos

clrigos, the highest tower in portugal,

and look across the Douro river, you

can see dozens of warehouses, each

with one of the famous names of the

port trade Grahams, Sandemans,

[ p o r t ]

Heathrow Traveller 23

photolibrary.com

burgoyne & Jackson imported wool from

England, sending back wine and olive

oil. that company became Warres, and,

along with Grahams and Dows, was

then acquired by the Symington family.

White port is rarely sold in the UK.

it can be as sweet as its red siblings (the

sweetest is known as lagrimas), but

more interesting is extra dry, served in

portugal as an apritif, mixed with tonic

or soda and served with ice and a slice.

the reds are divided into bottle- and

wood-aged ports. the latter spend only

a couple of years maturing in barrels

before being bottled, unltered. in the

best years, they are declared vintages

by the producers. they need to mature

in the bottle for at least 15 years (and

can keep improving for up to 30), before

being decanted (and drunk within a few

days). outside vintage years, individual

estates can produce a single quinta

vintage, which can be almost as good.

Wood-aged ports divide into two

further groups: ruby and tawny. these

names are based on their colour, which

depends on the length of time spent in

oak casks. after, on average, three years

of ageing, the ruby ports are younger

and fruitier, while aged tawnies range

from caramel-nutty 10-year-olds to

marmalady 20-year-olds. then there

are late-bottled vintages richer, more

spicy and intense than other wood-aged

ports but softer than most vintage ports.

its worth trying dierent houses

ports to nd the style that suits you.

For example, Dows has a drier character

compared to Warres lighter, elegant,

perfumed notes. and theres no better

place to explore the varieties than at a

restaurant on the river: smart D tonho

(dtonho.com), which has had Eusbio

and Jacques chirac as customers, or

laid-back little armazm do Sal.

the history of the port trade is

bound to gure strongly in any visit

to porto. at Grahams port lodge

(grahamsportlodge.com), you can nd

out about the winemaking process (for

example, the traditional foot-stomping

in granite troughs versus modern robotic

imitators, which are better partly

because they dont drink on the job) or

simply gaze in awe at the rows of casks

and vats as well as centuries-old vintage

bottles inside the peaceful cave.

the World heritage Site city centre is

packed with reminders of portos

trading heritage. Steep, cobbled streets

and alleys have a crumbling grandeur,

but there are grand edices such as the

19th-century trade hall, palcio bolsa,

and Gustave Eiels maria pia bridge, too.

here for the weekend? Serralves

museum of contemporary art (serralves.

pt) has a sculpture garden with works

by Dan Graham, richard Serra and claes

oldenburg, while the casa da msica

(casadamusica.com), designed by rem

Koolhaas, is a great venue for fado. and,

under the ownership of hip portuguese

hotel group lagrimas, hotel infante

Sagres (slh.com) has thrown o its

royalty-encrusted past to become a

great boutique hideaway.

port is throwing o its ladies-to-

the-drawing-room, pass-to-the-right,

no-touching-the-table, stilton-veined

stuness. With tastings that pair ports

with organic dark chocolates, modern

packaging and young tawnies made for

chilling, it seems set for a new era of

appreciation from a more demanding

clientele than Seventies portnlemon

drinkers. as for porto, it will remain a city

where a cab driver, rather than discuss

the best European cup-winning side,

will declare, the best vintage was

denitely 1977. HT

turn to portSix of the best fromWorld Duty Free

1. Dows LBV, 14.99

for 100cl

2. Dows 10-year-

old tawny, 22.99

for 100cl

3. Grahams LBV,

14.99 for 100cl

4. Warres Warrior,

11.99 for 100cl

5. Kopke 10-year-old

port, 12.49 for 75cl

until 11 January 2011

6. Kopke vintage port,

34.99 for 75cl

A glass or two of vintage

port is a prerequisite

on any visit to Porto

Words Chris Madigan

TAP Air Portugal ies to Porto

1

2

3 5

4 6

24

T r av e l J o u r n a l e n t e r ta i n m e n t

i a n B e l l s t r av e l t u n e s / g a m e s / D v D B o x s e t s

1. Come On (Lets Go Tonight), The Promise by Bruce Springsteen, 8.50 2. The Immortals, Come Around Sundown

by Kings Of Leon, 8.50 3. Youll Never Walk Alone, Viva Elvis The Album, 7.65 4. Blaze Of Glory, Greatest Hits by

Bon Jovi, 8.50 5. With A Little Help From My Friends, 19621966 (The Red Album) by The Beatles, 8.50

Box sets and games

are important to

Ian Bell when

hes on tour

5 tunes to inspire teamwork

Whether youre facingAussie fast bowlers or theStairmaster with a friend,these will get you singingfrom the same songsheet

[ t r a v e l e n t e r t a i n m e n t ]

REX FEATURES

interview Giles Milton, sports editor of Zoo magazine

An Ashes series is the

highlight of any english

cricketers career and

i couldnt wait to get on

the plane to Australia.

Who wouldnt want to

travel the world and get

to play cricket for a living?

But youre away for

months on end, so there are

a few essentials to pack.

I denitely never leave home

without my Only Fools and

Horses box set. I travel to

some far-ung places, and

its great to have something

so English to remind you of

home. Wherever you are

South Africa, Sri Lanka or

Bangladesh Del Boy and

Rodders will transport you

back. Even if youre stuck in

a tense test match on the

subcontinent, you need

something to get you

laughing and take your mind

o the game, and Del Boy

falling through the bar

denitely does that.

Box sets are a bit of an

addiction on tour and all the

team bring them along to

swap. With so much

downtime, you need

something to get your teeth

into and a series is always

better than a lm. On the last

tour in Bangladesh, CSI box

sets [right] were a favourite

of mine. I also really got into

Ian BellThe England batsmans essential kit for

the Ashes series Down Under

Entourage. Its about a

tight-knit group of young

guys in the Hollywood

showbiz bubble, living out

of hotels I can assure you

its a far cry from our life on

tour, though.

Wherever were playing,

we have a games room, so

the lads all pack their PSPs

and PS3s. I dont bring

one, but always end up

pinching somebody

elses controller and

getting into four-way

tournaments on Fifa

11. All the lads fancy

their chances, but

Jonathan Trotts the man to

beat he swears by his

Xbox! Im a keen golfer, and

I love Tiger Woods PGA Tour

11. Then again, when youre

somewhere like Australia,

you dont want to spend too

much time indoors, so Ive

packed my golf clubs to play

for real. I took my laptop, too,

mainly for putting together

playlists. On the way to a

morning session, the lads all

have their iPods on you

need something to get you

in the mood. I listen to The

Enemy, Ne-Yo, Scouting For

Girls, Tinie Tempah, Usher

a complete mixture!

Of course, theres always

some last-minute shopping

to do at Heathrow: a few

DVDs, magazines, papers

and electronic gadgets for

the ight. I usually nd

myself rushing to buy some

noise-reducing headphones.

I always manage to break

mine, but on a long-haul

ight I nd them an

absolute essential. HT

Ian Bell is playing

in the Ashes

Series with

the Adidas

Incurza

bat. For

stockists,

call 0870

240 4204

Heathrow Traveller 25

Books&

dvds

Call of Duty: Black ops

Xbox 360/PS3, 38.28 Having covered WWII and imaginedmodern day conicts, CoD turns to theplausible Cold War activities of spooks inCuba and Laos. New features include wager matches, where you gamble online money on winning battles with just one bullet in the chamber.

Game

Book/AnoTHer nigHT

Before CHriSTmAS

Carol Ann Duy, 4.99

The 1822 classic The

Night Before Christmas

has been rewritten for

the 21st century by one

of Britains best-loved

poets. This new version

is full of Carol Ann Duys

characteristic wit and

warmth, as well as being

beautifully illustrated.

DVD/mAD men SeASon 3

Lions gate Home

entertainment, 25.53

The third season of this

award-winning show

about the Sixties

advertising world moves

into 1963, which, of

course, builds to the

assassination of JFK. As

always, the devil is in the

detail style mavens will

want to watch for the

retro fashion tips alone.

Book/BeyonD THe

CrASH

gordon Brown, 14.99

Published 5 December

This heavyweight tome

by the former PM, long

admired for his grasp of

economic issues, oers a

unique perspective on

the global nancial crisis,

as well as innovative

ideas he believes will

help create a sound

economic future.

DVD/fAmiLy guy

SeASon 9

20th Century fox Home

entertainment, 15.31

More hilarious episodes

from the hugely popular

animated TV series

lampooning American

culture and the human

condition. Marijuana,

religion, evil monkeys,

older women the

dysfunctional Grin

family and their martini-

sipping dog, Brian, tackle

all this and more.

Book/THe ConfeSSion

John grisham, 13.99

In the epic new legal

thriller, an innocent man

is days from execution

and only a guilty man can

save him. But how can he

convince the lawyers,

judges and politicians?

DVD/THe PACifiC

Warner Home Video,

25.52

From the producers of

Band of Brothers, The

Pacic tracks the real-life

journeys of three US

marines across the vast

canvas of the Pacic

Theatre during World

War II from their rst

clash with the Japanese

in the haunted jungles of

Guadalcanal to their

triumphant, yet uneasy,

return home after VJ Day.

Book/rumPoLe AT

CHriSTmAS

John mortimer, 8.99

Pantos, puds and a Santa

who isnt quite what he

seems to be In these

seven Christmas stories,

previously published only

in magazines, the call of

justice leads ageing

London barrister Horace

Rumpole one of

Britains best loved comic

characters as far aeld

as a health farm in

Norfolk and as near to

home as a pantomime at

the Tufnell Park Empire.

DVD/inBeTWeenerS

SerieS 3

Channel 4 DVD, 12.75

One of the best British

comedies of the past

decade, this multi-

award-winning show

follows four friends as

they navigate their way

through sixth form with

their hormones running

riot. Neither the coolest

kids in school nor the

ultimate nerds, the four

inbetweeners try their

best to improve their

social standing and

impress girls. The

humour can be utterly

gross, but the characters

are likeable with it.

Book/CHriSTmAS WiTH

TuCker

greg kincaid, 6.99

George, the 12-year-old

hero of this childrens

story, is up against it:

his fathers died, his

mothers left him with

his grandparents on their

farm, and hes reluctantly

inherited a dog, Tucker,

from the alcoholic next

door. After a rocky start,

Tucker soon becomes his

best friend and gives him

the strength to take on

his challenges.

DVDs, games and CDs from HMV. All these books are available in a buy one, get one half price deal at WHSmith & WHSmith Bookshops

reviews Gill Wing

DESTINATION

26

T h e b i g P i c T u r e : c o a s T M o u n T a i n s , c a n a d a

Leading British action photographer Ross Woodhall took this shot in mid-May while he was heli-skiing in the mountains around Pemberton, outside Whistler in British Columbia. Ross says, We had sat out a storm for six days before the weather cleared. When we went up, we found a metre of fresh snow. I was with Jim Adlington, a British Salomon team skier, when this rock appeared in the helicopter windscreen we knew immediately it would make a good shot. He actually did this jump a few times, pulling the iron cross trick before landing, and hiking up the 100m or so each time. I photographed it with various lenses, but I thought this shot, on a 20mm wide angle, gave the best view of exactly how big the jump was. Of course, in order to shoot this, I got to snowboard down the mountain myself and it was one of the best powder days Ive ever had.

Russia Global festivals Heston Blumenthal on skis Family holiday rentals

Air Canada and British Airways y direct to Vancouver

Heathrow Traveller 27

Heathrow Traveller 29

4 Corners im

ages; piCture it now. interview: amy raphael

BA, bmi and Swiss International Airlines y to Geneva, and BA and Alitalia y to Milan

The chef scales the Italian Alps in

search of good food and wine

Hestons love forhaute cuisine

D e s t i n at i o n P o s t c a r d H e s t o n B l u m e n t H a lHeston Blumenthal revolutionised high-end dining with his scientic, theatrical and, at times, off-the-wall cooking. The Fat Duck is one of only four UK restaurants that boasts three Michelin stars. On 1 December, he will open Dinner, his rst London restaurant, at the Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park Hotel

Ive never been very good

at relaxing on holiday with

my family I would always

write every morning.

then, three years ago, i did

an interview with Ski Sunday

and discovered Courmayeur,

a small resort on the italian

side of mont Blanc, where

the milanese and torinese

go for Christmas. i went back

with my wife and the three

kids who are 17, 15 and

12 and, for the rst time,

didnt nd myself thinking

about work on holiday.

whats fantastic about

the resort is the fact that

there are 28 mountain

restaurants. they are mostly

small, with around 50

covers, and are run by

husband-and-wife

teams. But the

food is great.

i love the idea

that you can

have a really

delicious bowl of pasta or a

fantastic pizza with a good

bottle of wine. and the wine

really is great over there.

last year, we had

Christmas dinner at a place

right near the top of the

mountain called la maison

vieille di giacomo. we skied

in the morning and stopped

for lunch: spaghetti with

bottarga, or cured sh roe,

followed by a stued

turkey dish. and, of course,

some amazing wine.

we also went up there

one evening. giacomo

himself met us in

town complete with

snow mobiles for the

half-hour drive, and hed

lined the path up to the

restaurant with candles,

which was just beautiful.

giacomo serves sicilian

specialities such as maialino

allo spiedo, or roast suckling

pig. its cooked in the woods

and served on a whacking

great big piece of bark with

salad. really simple, really

good produce, cooked

really well. its a shame my

italian is limited to grazie

and pochissimo. But still,

Courmayeur is incredibly

friendly, even for those

with poor italian.

ive been skiing for the past

three years and, with lessons

every day, im pretty good

now. when i started, i had

my elbows out and my poles

were all over the place. i saw

a video of myself skiing and

thought i looked awful, so

i used it as motivation! id say

im intermediate now. im not

great on moguls, im not

brilliant in powder. But, on

a medium-to-dicult slope

thats not too icy, i think

i look alright.

im not risk averse but nor

am i a risk taker; im probably

somewhere between the

two. i dont want to look like

a traditional Brit on the ski

slope. i prefer going fast and

like to look like i have a bit of

style. if i feel im showing my

nationality by not being as

good as the italians, i tend

to slow down. i cant wait

to get back to Courmayeur

this Christmas. HT

30 Words Gemma Bowes, Lydia Westwood

Share optionsIf youre planning a holiday for a group of friends

or family, renting a villa that promises a little

luxury can only pay dividends. Here are some of

the best from around the world, starting with

the far-ung and fabulous

sPeCiaL

Villa PantulanElite Havens, Bali

Villa Pantulan is a contemporary, ve-bedroom

house in the small village of Lodtunduh, near the

town of Ubud, Balis cultural capital, famed for its

art, food and temples (above). Rooms are arranged

within four pavilions and include a stylish yoga/

dining platform and an artists studio. The bedrooms

have vast wooden doors that slide back to reveal the

garden with its pool, lily pond and waterfall, and the

palm trees and paddy elds beyond. The sta of 12

ensure a ve-star experience akin to that of a hotel.

From 568 per room per night (sleeps 10), including

breakfast. elitehavensbali.com

Heathrow Traveller 31

D e s t i n a t i o n G R O U P H O L I D AY S

Dar MusiqueMarrakech, Morocco

Dar Musique is a wonderful

bohemian bolthole. Potter among

the cacti on the rooftop terrace

and gaze at the Atlas mountains

blurring the horizon, recline in

the cool, tiled lounge after a

hard days bartering in the nearby

Djemaa el-Fna square, or take a

dip in the palm-fringed courtyard

pool. The house has four lavish

bedrooms, decorated in jewel-

box colours. It also has its own

hammam, with masseurs on hand

to knead out your kinks, while,

in the kitchen, your personal

chef will create authentic

Moroccan tagines to your taste.

From 1,000 per week (sleeps 8).

darmusique.com

eden Rock VillasKoh Samui, Thailand

Each of the three Eden Rock Villas

has a curvaceous pool with sea

views and its own interior style.

The Rice House is a representation

of a Balinese rice barn, with three

oors under an arching thatched

roof, and an outdoor dining space.

The Pineapple House, meanwhile,

has intricate wood carvings, and

incorporates a huge rock into

the architecture of one of its

bedrooms. However, for real wow

factor, opt for the most luxurious,

the Eden Rock its suites have

four-posters,sunken Jacuzzi

baths and rain showers.

From 474 per night for Eden

Rock (sleeps 8) and 221 for

Rice (sleeps 4) and Pineapple

(sleeps 6). edenrockvilla.com

Hotel sorayaGoa, India

Located in Goa (above), near

the stunning Morjim, Ashwem

and Mandrem beaches and

surrounded by rice paddies, lies

Hotel Soraya. Actually a private

rental property, it is a typical

high-ceilinged, Portuguese-era

villa, restored and stued with

antiques. There is also a separate

bungalow. The verandas of the

main house look out over the pool

and the acre of mango-lled and

jungly gardens and are the perfect

spot from which to monitor the

passing trac: cows, tropical

birds and the occasional elephant.

Main house from 110 per night

(sleeps 8), bungalow (sleeps 2)

from 35. hotelsorayagoa.comXXXXXXXXXXX

32

Three Sixty HouseShompole, Kenya

No one could argue location isnt key at the Three

Sixty House it stands on the edge of the Rift Valley

and oers uninterrupted views of the savannah all

the way to Tanzania. Like a very upmarket barefoot-

chic villa, its thatched roof is supported by gnarled

trunks. It may count a team of sta, a helipad and a

puddle-shaped pool surrounded by day beds and

lit up by candles at night among its luxuries, but, in

keeping with its eco credentials, its owners actively

support local socio-economic and wildlife projects.

From 496 per person per night (sleeps 4), including

full board and game drives. ecoluxury.com

Snowmass Club Aspen, USA

Every skier wants to tick Aspen

o their must-ski list at some

point, and those who want to

do it in style should consider the

Snowmass Club, a collection of

cosy, luxury villas at the foot

of Snowmass Mountain. Guests

have access to a spa with four

swimming pools, a Jacuzzi, a gym

and athletics club, tennis and golf,

plus a bar and restaurant, while,

just minutes away, are the lifts

up to 91 trails, plus gladed tree

runs, half-pipes and fun parks.

The villas are as comfortable

as they are well-appointed and

each has a deck oering great

creek and mountain views.

From 6,322 per week

(sleeps 10). akvillas.com

Tulum Beach

HousesTulum, Mexico

Just a few paces from talcum-

powder ne sand, emerald waves

perfect for surng, hammocks

strung between palms and a

backdrop of jungle, the three

thatched Tulum Beach Houses

on Mexicos Caribbean coast are

idyllically located. Their decor

draws on Mexican folk art and

traditional striped rugs and

colourful fabrics abound. Behla

Villa is the largest its master

bedroom has a private deck with

a cushioned snug and a bathroom

with ocean views from the tub.

From 477 per night (sleeps 8),

including breakfast. i-escape.com

Mount CinnamonMirissa, Sri Lanka

Mount Cinnamon is a stunning,

high-design residence at the

summit of the Mirissa Hills

plantation, home to the worlds

only cinnamon museum. Its three

doubles and one single bedroom

are arranged on one level and

separated by a courtyard with

a pool into which frangipani

trees toss their sweet-scented

confetti. The open-plan dining

area features contemporary Sri

Lankan art and sculpture and has

views down to the white-sand

and palm-tree fringed beaches of

Weligama Bay and Mirissa below.

From 443 per night (sleeps 8)

mirissahills.com

A family lunch, the

Southern European way,

eaten slowly and alfresco

Heathrow Traveller 33

For information about ights to all destinations, visit heathrow.com

D e S T i n a T i o n G R O U P H O L I D AY S

UK andEurope

4 CoRNERS, GETTy

Villa MichaelaTuscany

During a crisp, clear Tuscan

winter, there is nothing better

than being holed up in an elegant

villa with roaring res, especially

if it has been refurbished with

exquisite attention to detail.

Villa Michaelas bedrooms are

furnished with antiques and

enormous upholstered beds,

and walls have original frescoes.

South of Lucca, and with Pisa,

the Versilian coast and Forte dei

Marmi a 30-minute drive away, it

is located in excellent walking

territory. The formal dining room

overlooks an enclosed courtyard

and lemon groves, but it is the

rustic kitchen that is the hive of

mealtime activity. The basement

is a kids paradise, with a cinema

and a games room equipped with

billiard table, so it is conceivable

to spend an entire week without

bumping into your family at all.

From 22,000 per week

(sleeps 24), including breakfast

and housekeeping services.

ariellasvillas.com

SP

eC

iaL

34

sarsden ManorOxfordshire

Staying at Sarsden Manor is like

being invited to house-sit for

wealthy, stylish relatives only

these ones have exceptional

taste. From the contemporary

art that adorns the hallway to the

chic decor and designer touches,

this is an unusually modern

country pile, and perfect for

intimate parties or family events.

In deepest rural Oxfordshire,

the great outdoors here oers

biking, riding, clay-pigeon

shooting and plenty of walking,

yet the Manor is close enough

to London and Heathrow for

convenience. With a cinema,

games room and childrens

playroom, theres a space for

everyone to have fun.

From 4,900 per 3-night

weekend, 8,400 per week

(sleeps 20 in the main house

and 4 in a cottage). sarsden

manor.uniquehomestays.com

and a state-of-the-art home

cinema is oset by traditional

elements such as the high,

wood-beamed ceilings and

agstone oors. The indoor

gym and heated pool are ideal

for chilly days, and two replaces

promise cosy evenings, with or

without retsina.

From 10,000 per week,

long weekends on request

(sleeps 13), including daily

cleaning, private host and

travel-assistance/concierge

service. whitekeyvillas.com

Villa CondessaPeloponnese, Greece

For total seclusion and privacy,

hole up at this seven-bedroom

villa set in a 400-acre estate

propped on the hillside above the

village of Epidavros and encircled

by private forest. With wonderful

views across the valley and

nearby mountains, and acres of

olive groves to wander through,

you could spend a happy week

meandering and simply absorbing

nature. Inside, the eclectic mix

of antique pieces, comfy sofas

sP

eC

iaL

Heathrow Traveller 35

For information about ights to all destinations, visit heathrow.com

D e s t i n a t i o n G R O U P H O L I D AY S

Chalet CashmereMegve, France

Chalet Cashmere is a rm favourite with those who

value style as well as substance. Just a few minutes

from the town centre and ski lifts, it has panoramic

views of the mountains. Four bedrooms, three

with en-suite bathrooms and two with balconies,

surround a spacious sitting room and kitchen.

The nal bedroom, designed for kids, has four bunk

beds. The spa, with massage and steam rooms to

combat aprs-ski aches, is the killer blow.

From 15,000 per week (sleeps 12), including

champagne reception, concierge, 4x4 vehicle

and 5 massage treatments. luxuryskichalets.eu

Villa sanchaAndalucia, Spain

This traditional, whitewashed

farmhouse is bursting with

character features, but has been

modernised to cater to modern

needs, with Wi-Fi, Bose sound

systems and under-oor heating.

Set in the spectacular Andalucian

countryside and the Grazalema

Natural Park (pictured), Villa

Sancha is set in seven acres of

fruit and olive trees. All this

escapism, yet its a mere ve-

minute drive to Ronda. The decor

is chic, the bedrooms comfortable

and the living room perfect for

reside drinks. The pool is solar

heated its sunny 320 days a

year, so a safe bet even in winter.

From 3,314 per week (sleeps 9)

akvillas.com

auchinleck HouseAyrshire, Scotland

This imposing neo-Classical house

was built around 1760 for Lord

Auchinleck, father of biographer

James Boswell, and has been

extensively restored by the

Landmark Trust. It has four twin

bedrooms, two doubles and a

single. On entering the property,

you pass beneath a carved

inscription of a line by Horace:

Whatever you seek is here, in this

remote place, if only you have a

good, rm mind. If what you seek

is a spectacular retreat, then it

stands true.

From 958 per 3-night weekend,

1,273 per week (sleeps 13).

landmarktrust.org.uk

Ballinacurra House

Kinsale, Ireland

If you want to play your trump

card for a special event, or you

simply have an enormous family,

award-winning Ballinacurra

House is far and away the

most exclusive venue for a large

gathering. It has extensive

grounds, with a magnicent

walled garden, a croquet lawn,

childrens playground, helipads,

forest, river estuary and boat

jetty. A stones throw from Cork,

culinary capital Kinsale and the

famous Old Head golf course,

theres no end of things to do.

From 4,795 per night, 31,000

per week (sleeps 44), including

chef. ballinacurra.com

36

Holiday in a home created by one

of the worlds top architects

Better by design

Illustration Samuel Rhodes

D e s t i n at i o n c o m m e n t a l a i n d e b o t t o nBorn in Zrich but based in London, essayist Alain de Botton is one of Europes foremost philosophers. In the summer of 2009, he was Heathrows Writer in Residence, an experience that led to his book A Week At The Airport (Prole, 8.99)

Judging by the success of

interior-design magazines

and property shows, you

might think the UK was

now as comfortable with

good contemporary

architecture as it is with

non-native food or music.

But scratch beneath the

metropolitan, London-centric

surface and you quickly

discover Britain remains

a country deeply in love

with the old and terried of

the new. Country hotels

compete among themselves

to tell us how ancient they

are; holiday cottages vaunt

that they were already in

existence when Jane Austen

was a girl. The draughty

sash window shows no

signs of retiring. Inheriting

furniture and not bothering

with plumbing continue to

function as mysterious

symbols of status.

A few years ago, I wrote

a book about architecture

critical of our nostalgia and

low expectations. It got a

healthy amount of attention,

on the back of which I was

invited to a stream of

conferences about the future

of architecture. But, one

night, returning from just

such a conference in Bristol,

I had a dark moment of the

soul. I realised that, however

pleasing it is to write a book

about an issue one feels

passionate about, the truth

is that a few exceptions

aside books dont change

anything. And I had to

acknowledge that, if I cared

so much about architecture,

writing was just a cowards

way out; the real challenge

was to build.

So, on the back of a

notepad was born a project

that ocially launches this

month: Living Architecture is

a not-for-prot organisation

that puts up houses around

the UK designed by some of

the worlds top architects

and makes these available

to the public to rent for

holidays throughout the

year. We describe it as

a Landmark Trust for

contemporary architecture.

Our dream was to allow

people to experience what

it is like to live and sleep in a

space designed by an

outstanding architectural

practice. While there are

examples of great modern

buildings in Britain, they tend

to be in places one passes

through, such as airports,

museums and oces, and

the few modern houses

that exist are almost all in

private hands and cannot be

visited. This seriously skews

discussions of architecture.

On the whole, when people

declare that they hate

modern buildings, they

are speaking not from

experience of homes, but

from a distaste of post-war

tower blocks or bland,

air-conditioned oces.

From the o, we wanted

the organisation to be

international, because

foreign architects rarely

have the chance to work in

the UK and yet do things

in ways we should learn

from. So weve used a great

Dutch rm, MVRDV, some

Norwegians called JVA and,

last but not least, the worlds

greatest architect, a Swiss

called Peter Zumthor.

The idea has been to avoid

the obvious and to place

houses in locations one

hadnt necessarily ever

thought of holidaying in and

to design rooms dierent

from those that people

know from their own homes.

We also want to keep things

accessible. Prices for a stay

start at 20 per person

per night and the buildings

themselves, while always

comfortable, are not

oputtingly grand.

The salvation of British

housing lies in raising

standards of taste. If one

considers how rapidly and

overwhelmingly this has

been achieved in cooking,

there is much to be

optimistic about. With the

right guidance, a similar

sensitivity could be

extended to domestic

buildings. My hope is

that a holiday in a Living

Architecture house will, in

a modest but determined

way, help to change the

debate about the sort of

homes we want to live in. HT

living-architecture.co.uk

3838

Dest inat ion s t p e t e r s b u r g & m o s c o wFrom the time of the tsars through communist rule, the KGB and queues, to glasnost, perestroika and oligarchy, few nations have experienced change on such as scale as Russia the perfect location for a holiday with a historical backdrop

Words Chris Beanland

The Russian Fascination Russias two major cities have always enjoyed a certain rivalry, yet their diverse

characters embody the essence of this vibrant yet mysterious country

It will wander most towards

the juxtapositions inherent

in russian life. How can

one country that stretches

half way round the northern

hemisphere, spans nine time

zones and is home to more

than 140 million people

retain such a strong sense

of itself, of what it means

to be russian? How does

the brash, high-spending

present square with the

years of communism?

you would need to live

among russians for a long

time before you truly got

this mysterious nation.

But spend a week in one

of russias two main

cities, the serene and

historic imperial capital,

st Petersburg, or the

throbbing heart of new

money moscow, and youll

start to get at least a taste

of the real russia.

Russia is a giant enigma.

As you guzzle caviar and

oysters at the Taleon Club

in St Petersburg or drink

coee and nibble on

dainty pastries at Caf

Pushkins Konditerskaya

in Moscow, your mind

will inevitably wander.

4 Corners, AlAmy

Heathrow Traveller 39

British Airways and Rossiya Airlines y direct to St Petersburg

Heathrow Traveller 39

Opposite: a typical

onion-domed church in

the Golden Ring region

to the north-east of

Moscow. Above: the

Jordan Staircase in

the Winter Palace. Left:

a production of the

ballet Sleeping Beauty

in St Petersburg

St Petersburg History andhigh culture

2011 marks 20 years since

the Ussr was broken up and

russia began a new chapter.

But even though it is the

recent past that weighs

heavy on our perceptions,

a much older country

pre-dates the soviet Union.

st Petersburg is the place

to sip from this historical

chalice. It became the capital

in 1712 and, with only a short

break, was the nerve centre

of imperial power until 1918.

There is an air of the

respectable and civilised

about st Petersburg that

sets it apart from its bolshier

sister city. Its proximity to

scandinavia and the Baltic

states makes it russias

window on the world youll

nd tourists speaking all

languages in the globally

famous Hermitage museum

(hermitagemuseum.org).

The tsars were famously

open to inuences from

around the world, which is

quite at odds with the notion

of the enigmatic Fifties and

sixties Ussr as a closed

shop. Walk the canals that

drained the marshy estuary

dont they look Dutch?

Peter the Great even named

the city in the Dutch style

sankt Pieter Burkt originally.

The architecture of the

great churches and palaces,

meanwhile, nods to Austrian

and scandinavian inuences.

st Petersburg jealously

guards its high culture. on the

150th anniversary of the

acclaimed mariinsky Theatre

(mariinsky.com) this year,

Prime minister Putin came

to watch a performance of

Swan Lake. seeing a ballet

or opera here is one of the

highlights of any visit.

look for the st Petersburg

youve seen on celluloid, too.

scenes from the 1997 lm of

Tolstoys epic, Anna Karenina,

starring sophie marceau in

the titular role, were lmed in

ve-star hotel. A favourite

haunt of Tchaikovsky, Anna

Pavlova and maxim Gorky,

it still plays host to the global

great and good. Dine at the

hip leningrad restaurant

(11a Kamennoostrovsky

Prospekt), named after the

citys 20th-century alter ego.

It oers old staples such as

pelmeni (dumplings) and

mushroom julienne alongside

miso soup and foie gras the

cuisine of the new russia.

the Winter Palace (hermitage

museum.org). The same

elaborate imperial drawing

rooms were also the setting

for the sublime 2002 lm

Russian Ark. Using 2,000

actors, it depicted characters

both real and imaginary at

dierent periods of the citys

300-year-old history.

stay, if you can stretch to

it, at the imposing Grand

Hotel europe (grandhotel

europe.com), russias rst

WIN a holiday to MoscowVisit one of the worlds greatest capitals, where old-world

orthodoxy meets audacious free enterprise. Enter this fantastic

competition and explore the Kremlin and discover Moscows

imperial treasures. The winner and a companion will y economy

with bmi from Heathrow to Moscow, staying two nights at the

exclusive Lotte Hotel. See heathrow.com/competitions for full details

40

Getty Im

aGes

Left: the Moscow

Metro. Below: the

citys St Basils

cathedral

British Airways, bmi and Aeroot y direct to Moscow

Dest inat ion r U S S I A

Moscow Science, spies,

new money

and nights out

New Russia hits you the

moment you land in moscow.

expansion, refurbishment

and complete rebuilding are

turning the three previously

dilapidated airports into

21st-century gateways for

this go-ahead global city.

But, before you enter this

brave new world, sink your

teeth into pre-perestroika

moscow. the Kremlin may

have been the ocial seat

of political power, but

many believe the real

clout lay with the KGB,

now renamed the FsB.

Putin is a KGB alumnus and

the organisation ruthlessly

helped the Communist

Party keep control at home.

the KGB museum (12 Ulitsa

Bolshaia Lubyanka) has

a number of fascinating

exhibits, including miniature

cameras and guns inside

hollowed-out brollies. Visit

Gorky Park to relive the chill

of the eponymous Cold War

book (and subsequent lm)

by martin Cruz smith about

espionage, which was

inspired by moscows most

famous green lung.

the metro, as well as

getting you around the

tourist attractions, is

a feast for the eyes in

its own right murals

and elaborate decor

abound. the city

planners were so taken with

Piccadilly Circus tube station

when they visited London in

the thirties, they designed

their stations in the same

barrel-ceilinged style.

scientic achievement

has always been fetishised

in moscow. the 90-year-old

spiral shukhov Radio tower

(37 Shabolovskaya Street)

and the titanium-clad

monument to the Conquerors

of space (Cosmonauts Alley)

are both staggering sights.

the latter is pure sixties

socialist pomp, and exhibits

in the museum at its base

include the capsule in which

Gagarin orbited the earth.

Patriarshiye Prudy

(Patriarchs Ponds) is one

of the areas that has

contributed to moscows

price-hike infamy. Forbes

magazine recently judged

it the worlds fourth most

expensive city, with a coee

averaging 6. Beryozka

(20 Malaya Bronnaya Street),

which sells Givenchy bags

to oligarchs girlfriends,

is just one of the lavish

boutiques in a city where,

not so long ago, people

shivered all day in queues

outside the state-run GUm

department store in Red

square, only to nd rows of

bare shelves.

New arbat avenue is

another gentried zone. the

Lotte Hotel (lottehotel.com)

has just opened here,

oering some of the most

luxurious suites in town.

If you really want to push the

boat out, ditch strogano

and eat eurasian fusion food

with champagne at Vanilla

(1/9 Ostozhenka Street).

moscows hip nightlife is

becoming a draw, too.

solyanka (Solyanka 11) has

hosted DJ sets by the

Unabombers, Bent, and

metro area. along with air

and Cube, it hosted the

cutting-edge mIGZ Festival

in september. Before

Glasnost, this kind

of partying would have

been unthinkable. HT

H E AT H R O W T R AV E L L E R p R O m O T i O n

Heathrow Traveller 41

Hilton Madrid airports

avant-garde design

and excellent service

standards have made it

the rst choice for both

national and international

business travellers.

Space totalling 1,700sqm

is available for conferences,

conventions and meetings

of all types. Fifteen working

areas are equipped with

state-of-the-art technology,

including instant translation

systems, video-conference

equipment and Wi-Fi.

The hotel oers 284

spacious and modern rooms,

all with a designated work

area supported by the latest

multimedia technology.

Guests who choose to stay

Award-winning service:Hilton Madrid Airport

Two years after its opening, Hilton Madrid Airport has been

named Best Business Hotel in Spain 2010 by the

prestigious magazine Business Destination

Leading European BusinessHotels

The respected magazine

Business Destinations has

included Hilton Madrid Airport

among the winners of its Best

Worldwide Hotel Awards 2010;

in fact, it has been voted Best

Business Hotel in Spain by a

panel of experts, professionals

in the hospitality industry and

Business Destinations readers.

We are really proud to receive

such recognition, said general

manager David cija. The

award is the reection of the

involvement and commitment

of Hilton Madrid Airports team,

which has been exceeding our

guests expectations since

the opening just two years ago.

Our goal is to keep on raising

the bar with our ongoing

eorts to satisfy and delight

our guests and clients.

in executive rooms can enjoy

the advantages of the

executive lounge, which

has its own reception for

check-in and check-out,

refreshments throughout

the day, computers with

internet access and

personalised service.

Hilton Madrid Airport

also oers the original

Hilton Relaxation Rooms

designed so that the space,

light and colours radiate

peace and harmony. These

spacious rooms also oer a

luxurious marble bathroom,

with a hydro-massage bath

and separate shower.

The hotel has a gym,

equipped with Precor

machines, plus a sauna ,

hydrotherapy pool and

personal trainer service.

And, for guests convenience,

Hilton Madrid Airport also

oers a complimentary

shuttle to Madrid Barajas

international airport.

When night falls, the

Ferrum Bar, with its modern

decor and exclusive speciality

whiskies, becomes the

main attraction.

For those only passing

through Madrid, Hilton oers

the Meetings in Transit

package, which allows you

to hire meeting rooms, enjoy

lunch and leisure facilities,

Wi-Fi internet and access to

the hotels leisure facilities. HT

+34 911 534 000;

hilton.co.uk/madridairport

Best BusinessHotel in Spain

42

Celebrategood timesFrom sword

ghting in the

Sahara and canoe

racing in Cambodia

to estas that see

in the new moon

and the New Year,

heres our pick of

the worlds parties

M o v i n g M a p g r e a t g l o b a l F e s t i v a l sDest inat ionIf its local colour youre after, nothing beats being in a country thats jubilantly marking a memorable date, be it with an ancient religious rite or a new twist on a national holiday authenticity, energy and enormous fun come as standard

Words Philip Watson

OaxacaDaY oF the DeaD

31 October to

2 November 2011

For a celebratory yet

soulful Halloween, nothing

matches Mexicos Day of

the Dead. The annual

holiday unites family and

friends in remembering

those who have died.

In the ancient city of

Oaxaca, gifts and oerings

are taken at midnight to

cemeteries, and shrines

are built, with photos,

candles and sugar skulls,

that honour the departeds

favourite food, drink and

music perfect for a party.

15-day package from

2,271; journeylatin

america.co.uk

New YorkMaCYS thaNkSgiviNg

DaY ParaDe

25 November 2010

The US four-day holiday

weekend is primarily one

of family feasts, American

football and giving thanks

to God. Yet it is also a time

of great public spectacle,

especially in New York,

where Macys parade has

been running since 1924.

It features oats, high-

school marching bands,

giant balloons of cartoon

characters and a grand

nale with Santa Claus.

Three-night package

from 499; british

airways.com

Rio de JaneiroNeW YearS eve

31 December 2010

Rios New Year party, or

Rveillon, is one of the

biggest events of the

Brazilian year, and second

only to Carnival. By day,

thousands of people pay

homage to the goddess

Yemanj by placing

owers, gifts and candles

in the sea. By night, up

to two million revellers

throng the enormous and

exuberant free parties

along Copacabana Beach,

which hosts concerts,

DJs, a rework display and

all-night dancing.

Three-night package

from 899;

travel2brazil.co.uk

MaliFeStival iN

the DeSert

6-8 January 2011

This three-day festival,

spectacularly staged in the

remote Saharan desert

near Timbuktu, is modelled

on a traditional Tuareg

clan gathering, at which

decisions were made

and news exchanged.

It features camel races,

dance events, poetry

and sword ghts. More

recently, the annual

line-up of stellar African

and international

musicians has really put

the event on the map.

12-day package from

1,590 (excl ights);

responsibletravel.com

Heathrow Traveller 43

JaipurDiWali

26-30 October 2011

Diwali, or the Festival of

Lights, is as important to

Hindus as Christmas is

to Christians. Celebrated

across India, one of the

more memorable places

to experience it is in Jaipur.

Known as the Pink City, it

is decorated with lanterns,

candles and garlands;

there are reworks; a

competition for the most

lit-up bazaar; and joyous

celebrations of good

over evil, prosperity over

poverty, light over dark.

Ten-day package

from 2,060;

ampersandtravel.com

Phnom PenhWater FeStival

20 to 22 November 2010

This full-moon festival in

Phnom Penh is one of the

oldest and liveliest in

the Cambodian calendar.

It celebrates the end of

the rainy season, the

start of the shing season,

and a unique natural

phenomenon the

reversing of the ow of

the Tonl Sap river. There

are bright dug-out canoes

with eyes on the prows to

ward o evil spirits, canoe

races, and, along the river

banks, music, food stalls

and rework displays.

Thirteen-day package

from 1,995 (excl ights);

wildfrontiers.co.uk

DresdenaDveNt Market

26 November to

24 December 2010

The oldest and most

atmospheric of the German

Christmas markets is

undoubtedly Dresdens.

Traditional and romantic,

it is located in the historic

part of the baroque city,

close to the Elbe, and

features handmade

crafts, gifts, toys and

foods, glass and wooden

tree decorations, to the

backdrop of carol singing.

Be sure to buy some of the

celebrated stollen cake,

invented in Dresden.

Two-night packages

from 290; german-

travel-uk.com

Beijing ChiNeSe NeW Year

3 February 2011

The New Year festivities

are the longest and most

important holidays in the

Chinese lunar calendar.

There are many colourful

customs, from windows

and doors decorated with

paper-cuts and lanterns,

to feasts of pig, duck and

sweets. Visitors on China

Links Travels trip will make

New Year dumplings and

see rework displays with

a Chinese family in Beijing,

and visit the Yong He Gong

temple, where locals pray

for good health.

Ten-day package

from 1,899;

chinalinkstravel.co.uk

ISTOCK; GETTY IM

AGES; ALAMY

For detailed airport and ight information, go to heathrow.com

Heathrow Traveller 45Words Alexandra Friend Photography Beate Sonnenberg

Festive gifts for Sun seekers Luxe lovers Business travellers Young fliers

ARABiAnnoteS

The most covetable

beauty gifts full of

Eastern promise

inspired by the oils and incense of Middle eastern perfumery, Jo Malones Cologne intense

capsule collection spins heady ingredients such as patchouli, amber and oud into four scents

to be worn alone or layered deliciously on top of one another. try oud & Bergamot with Rose

Water & Vanilla for a smoky swirl of citrus and wood with a powdery waft of turkish delight.

Jo Malone Cologne Intense in Amber & Patchouli, Iris & White Musk, Rosewater & Vanilla and

Oud & Bergamot, 80 for 100ml from Jo Malone in T3 and T4, and all World Duty Free stores.

46

g I F T g u I D e

LUXELOVER For those who adore

the ner things of life,

ideal items to indulge

them are at the airport

1. KG by Kurt Geiger Jasmine shoe 82.50 High Street 100 2. French Connection Carnival clutch 51.06 High Street 60 3. Omega Constellation

Quartz watch at Mappin & Webb 4,153.19 High Street 4,880 4. Escada handbag 724.28 High Street 850 5. Links of London patent coin purse

56.53 High Street 65 6. Gucci Guilty EDT at World Duty Free 48 7. Cartier Tank Franaise watch at Mappin & Webb 2,170 High Street 2,550

8. Bulgari B.Zero1 white gold ring with pav diamonds 5,600 High Street 6,650 9. Swarovski Intervalle thin golden bangle 89.36 High Street

105 10. Miu Miu cats-eye sunglasses at David Clulow 93.61 High Street 110

7

4

6

1

5

2

3

8 10

9

T h e l o u n g e

Heathrow Traveller 47

11. French Connection engraved metal clutch 51.06 High Street 60 12. Este Lauder Re-Nutriv Ultimate Lift Age-Correcting Creme at World

Duty Free 131.75 13. Smythson Damson travel wallet 268.09 High Street 315 14. Links of London Innity Knot necklace 478.26 High Street

550 15. French Connection Deco bead belt 34.04 High Street 40 16. LK Bennett Hallie shoe 191.50 High Street 225 17. Links of London

20/20 ring in rose gold and diamond (top) or gold and diamond (bottom) 782.61 High Street 900, silver 95.65 High Street 110 18. Samsonite

vintage mini case at Rolling Luggage 165.95 High Street 195

11

16

17

18

15

14

12

13

48

g I F T g u I D e

SUNSEEKER Taking to the skies for a

relaxing holiday is the

perfect moment to treat

yourself to carefree

clothes and accessories

1. Escada jacket 907.48 High Street 1,065 2. Ted Baker Adhara cardigan 118.30 High Street 139 3. Cath Kidston Winter Rose holdall 46.81

High Street 55 4. Jo Malone English Pear & Freesia candle 30.40 High Street 38 5. Mulberry Edna shoulder bag 723.40 High Street 850

6. Fat Face print dress 38.25 High Street 45 7. Tiany oval frame sunglasses at David Clulow 198.29 High Street 233 8. French Connection

Organic gold circles necklace 21.20 High Street 25

1

2

3

4

5

7

8

6

T h e l o u n g e

Heathrow Traveller 49

9. Samsung Galaxy Tab at Dixons Travel 514.55 10. Sony Reader Touch Edition at Sony Style 145 High Street 200 11. D&G aviators at David

Clulow 104.68 High Street 123 12. French Connection waxed canvas holdall 55.32 High Street 65 13. Veuve Clicquot fridge chiller at World

Duty F