hairdressing colouring

Hairdressing

Colouring Hair

Candidate Name: _____________________________

Hair & Beauty

Town Centre Campus (TCC) Eastwood Lane, Rotherham, S65 1EG Rother Valley Campus (RVC) Doe Quarry Lane, Dinnington, S25 2NF

TEL 01709 362111 FAX 01709 373053 EMAIL [email protected] WEB www.rotherham.ac.uk

Production of this material is attributed to Rotherham College of Arts and Technology

Revision 1 Creative Studies\Hair & Beauty Hairdressing Colouring Hair

Colouring Treatments

This booklet will help you to gain the understanding required to help you achieve the observations needed in your logbook. You will also work through activities and gain the knowledge needed for the unit test paper. You will develop some L2 skills. These being: application of temporary, semi, quasi, re-growth, full head permanent colours, cap and foils highlights/low lights. It is your responsibility to look after this booklet, as completion of the unit will not be possible without it.



Personal Hygiene

Whilst carrying out the service at the basin you will be in close contact with the clients for a long period of time. It is essential that your body odour and breath is fresh at all times.

Posture

It is your responsibility to ensure your client is seated comfortably as she/he will be sat at the basin for a long period of time during this service. Continually check with the client that she/he is comfortable. Your own posture is very important too. You should stand with your feet slightly apart to maintain balance and give an even distribution of weight. Poor posture can cause fatigue and the risk of harm occurring to both yourself and the client.



Health and Safety when Colouring The Health & Safety at Works Act requires that all people work safely. This is to help prevent accidents occurring. We also have a duty to our clients to provide a safe and hygienic environment reducing the spread of disease, where clients can have their hair done. It is important that you work safely ensuring that you: 1. Protect your client and protect yourself by wearing PPE. 2. Ensure client comfort throughout the colouring service. 3. Position yourself and your tools for ease of use. 4. Always carry out the necessary test before & during the colouring. 5. Follow the manufactures instructions. 6. Wipe up spillages immediately. 7. Test the water temperature before rinsing off products 8. Carefully remove all products and materials after processing. 9. Dispose of different types of waste in the correct way COSHH 10. Check all electrical equipment prior to use. In the chart below briefly state why it is important for you to follow these steps:

No Reasons why

1.

2.

3.

4.

5.

6.

7.

8.

9.

10.



Preparation of Client It is important to ensure that the workstation is prepared and the client’s clothing is well protected before colouring the hair. Workstation Chair and worktops to be clean Tools to be clean and sterilised Equipment to be in working order Colouring trolley to be clean and set up ready to work

Client Clean gowns secured around client Waterproof cape Clean towel Disposable cape if required

State your salons requirements for preparing a client for colouring services. ___________________________ ___________________________

___________________________ ___________________________

___________________________ ___________________________ Can you suggest ways in which you could improve this? ___________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________________________________ Remember always replace gowns immediately if colouring products have been absorbed. Why do you need to do this? ___________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________________________________

___________________________________________________________________



Disposal of Waste It is your responsibility to keep the work area clean and tidy at all times. This will not only promote a good professional image, it will also reduce the risk of cross infection and infestation. All unused solution must be diluted and flushed down the basin with plenty of

warm running water. End papers and used cotton wool must be placed in the bin provided.

Used towels are to be taken to laundry or placed in the laundry.

Note You have now followed the requirements of COSHH. Store

Handle

Use

Dispose of By following the manufacturers instruction you have done what you SHUD.



The Colour Spectrum When looking at the colour of hair, what you actually see is light reflecting from the hair. This is known as White light which is made up of a mixture of seven colours. These seven colours are called the colour spectrum. RED ORANGE YELLOW GREEN BLUE INDIGO VIOLET

An easy way to help you to place the colours in the correct order for the colour star will be to remember this: Richard Of York Gave Battle In Vain Melanin is the natural colour pigment in hair and the hair colour we actually see in hair depends on the pigment reflected. This simply means if all other colours except red are absorbed, it is red that is reflected from the surface of the hair, so the hair looks red. Therefore hair with a smooth surface (in good condition) colour will shine and appear more vibrant. Now practice remembering the spectrum colours. R ______________________ O ______________________ Y ______________________ G ______________________ B ______________________ I ______________________ V ______________________



The Colour Star The colour star (or circle) is made up of: Three primary colours Three secondary colours

The three primary colours are Red, Yellow and Blue. These colours cannot be made from any other colours. The three secondary colours are Orange, Green and Purple/Violet. These are made by mixing primary colours together. All other colours are made by mixing primary and secondary colours together i.e. red + yellow + blue = brown. Opposite colours on the circle will neutralise or subdue each other. Use coloured pencils to colour in the colour star.



Basic Colouring Knowledge The Effects of Colouring on the Hair Structure The main types of colouring used in salons fall into 5 types: Temporary colours Semi-permanent colours Quasi colours Permanent colours Bleaches

Temporary Colour Semi-Permanent Colour

Large colour molecules on the outside of the cuticle.

Large and small colour granules penetrate the cortex and lie on the outer

edge of the cortex.



The Effects of Colour and Lightening Products on Hair Structure

Quasi Colour

The addition of a weak solution of hydrogen peroxide allows colour to enter

cortex.

Permanent Colour

Tiny colour granules are mixed with hydrogen peroxide. The colour granules swell and become trapped in the cortex

Bleach

Natural colour molecules (melanin) are oxidised to form colourless oxy-melanin.



Colouring Hair Procedures Temporary Colour

Gown and protect the client and shampoo the hair.

Towel dry the hair – Wear gloves and apron.

Comb the hair with a wide tooth comb starting at the nape working up the head. To apply mousse

Shake the mousse thoroughly and place a small amount into the palm of the hand.

Using the comb take a small amount of the mousse and comb through the hair from roots to ends (avoiding the scalp).

If the hair is long and thick section off to apply evenly.

Cover the full head with mousse ensuring that it is combined evenly. Dry and style as required.

To apply setting lotion

Shake the bottle.

Apply to the damp hair by sprinkling the colour over the hair.

Gently massage the hair to distribute the colour.

Avoid the colour from dripping down the client’s face and neck.

Comb the hair using a wide tooth comb ready to style the hair. To apply coloured hair mascara

Dry and style the hair.

Apply the mascara from roots to ends.

Do not overload the hair as the strand of hair will become heavily coated.

Allow the hair to dry and do not brush style again as this will disturb the coloured section of hair.

Advise your client of the effect the colour has on the hair and the length of time the colour will stay on the hair.



Semi Permanent/Quasi Colour Procedure

Protect yourself e.g. gloves, apron.

Wet the head.

DO NOT CONDITION.

Towel dry the hair.

Section the head of hair into four sections: front to nape/ear to ear.

Prepare the product.

Apply the colour around the hairline across the roots of the four sections.

Starting at the nape divide hair into small subsections working to crown applying the colour from roots to ends straight through and then the ear section up.

Continue the application until the full head of hair is coloured.

Massage the colour for even distribution.

Leave the hair to process following manufacturer’s instructions.

On completion of the development time, rinse the hair. This will loosen the product from the hair and scalp. Emulsify to remove stains around the hair line.

Condition the hair.

Rinse-comb and style as requested.



Regrowth Application



Regrowth Application Procedure

Permanent Colour – Retouch Application

Protect yourself e.g. gloves, apron.

Section the head of hair into four. Prepare the product.

Apply to the hairline first covering only the regrowth.

Apply down each section – front to nape, ear to ear.

Starting from nape work in small sub sections ensuring that each section is

covered with colour on the regrowth only.

On completion of the application of colour, read manufacturers instructions for the processing time.

If the existing colour has faded on the ends of the hair apply some colour to the full head 15 mins to 20 mins before the development time is finished.

Massage through to evenly distribute the colour.

Comb through with a large tooth comb.

Lift the hair away from the scalp (to allow oxygen into the hair).

On completion of the development time, rinse the hair this will loosen the product from the hair and scalp. Emulsify making sure that the tint is removed from around the hair line.

Rinse the colour off completely.

Shampoo and condition the hair.

Rinse the hair and style as requested.



Permanent Colour – Virgin Hair Application Procedure

Protect yourself e.g. gloves and apron.

Section the head of hair into four sections.


Starting at the nape, apply the colour to the mid lengths and ends of the hair only working in small sub sections.

Continue to apply the colour covering all four sections but do not cover the roots. Remember – MID LENGTHS TO ENDS ONLY.

Read the manufacturer’s instructions regarding processing time.

Allow to process for 15 to 20 minutes.

Starting at the nape again in small sub sections, apply the colour to the roots to mid lengths.

Work up the sections until all four sections have been covered.

Massage the colour GENTLY.

Comb through with a large tooth comb.

Allow to process until the development time is complete.

Rinse the hair this will loosen the product from the hair and scalp. Emulsify around the hair line ensuring that all the tint is removed from the hair line. Remember tint removes tint.

Rinse all the colour off and shampoo and condition.

Rinse the hair, comb and style as required.



Cap Highlights/Lowlights



Highlighting and Lowlighting Cap Technique Procedure

Brush the hair straight back.

Place cap on the head ensuring that it is tight to the scalp.

Starting from the nape pull sections of hair through the cap making sure all the holes have been covered.

With a fine comb, comb the sections of hair pulled through making sure there is no knots left at the roots.



Apply the product from roots to ends covering the cap of sectioned hair.

Follow manufacturer’s instructions for the processing time.

If you are using bleach place a plastic cap over the cap to ensure the bleach does not dry out.

On completion of the development, rinse the colour off the cap. Apply conditioner and gently pull the cap away from the head. Rinse the hair and shampoo and condition. Rinse the hair, comb and style as requested.



Foil Highlights/Lowlights



Highlighting and Lowlighting Weaving Techniques Procedures


Section the head of hair depending on the area which has to be coloured e.g. full head four sections front to nape, ear to ear. Partial head, section off this area only.

Apply conditioner to the remaining area of hair which is not to be coloured to ensure no colour will contact it.


Prepare the packages e.g. tin foil, easi meche, tools being used.

Work in small sub sections and weave the hair to be coloured.

Place the package or tool.

Apply the colour ¼ inch from the roots to ends.

Avoid applying to the scalp as the colour will swell and cause a block coverage.

Follow manufacturers instructions for the processing time.

On completion of the development rinse the packages. Remove them and rinse the hair thoroughly.

Shampoo and condition the hair.

Rinse the hair, comb and style as requested.

Complete the client’s record card.



Colour Removal

How much have you remembered?

1. Which regulation did you follow regarding protection? ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ 2. How did you abide by COSHH? ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ 3. Why is it important not to rub the scalp too harshly? ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ 4. Why is it important to follow personal hygiene? ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ 5. Name the items used to protect yourself and the client? ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ 6. Why is it important to follow all instructions given? ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________

7. Who would you notify if any problems occurred? ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________



8. What is the purpose of emulsifying the colour? ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ 9. Why is it important to rinse thoroughly? ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________ 10. Which conditioner is applied after a colour treatment and why? ______________________________________________________________ ______________________________________________________________



Colouring Service

Troubleshooting

Problem Reason Who to report to/how to

put right

Colour residue in nape

Skin staining

Clothing being wet

Product in eye

How would you dispose of product waste? ____________________________________________________________________ How would you dispose of colour material waste, i.e. foils? ____________________________________________________________________



Sustainable Development (In control of economic development and energy sources) Colouring Hair

Product/Material Disposal Method

Colour Unwanted products rinse down basin

Empty colour tubes Return to technician – tube will be placed in aluminium recycle bin and tops in plastic recycle bin

Peroxides Return to technician – rinse and place in plastic recycle bin

Bleach/Magma containers

Return to technician – rinse and place in plastic recycle bin

Foils Rinse and place in recycle bin in salon

Caps Rinse/dry and return to technician unless student uses their own

hairdressing colouring

Documents

colouring service

rotherham college of

technology revision

client comfort

health safety

long period of time

unit test paper

necessary test