Hair Dyes and Colorants

Shivam N. Patel

What is Hair Dyes ?

• Hair Dye or Hair color is a chemical tool which is used to change the color of person’s hair.

• They are used mostly to change gray hair, a sign of an older age.

• Now in current trend younger people used hair color as a fashion.

Hair Structure

• Human hair is mainly made up of Keratin, water and dead cells.

• Each Strand of Hair is made up of three layers;

I. Cuticle

II. Cortex

III. Medulla

Cortex

• It is located peripheral to the medulla and forms the major part of the shaft.

• It consists of elongated cells, containing pigment granules in dark hair while air in white hair.

Cuticle

• It is the outermost layer of the hair and consists of keratinized.

• It is made up of scale-like protein cells which are overlapping.

• Protein cells protect the cortex.

• Natural black hair color is due to the melanin clusters of dispersed within the colorless keratin-based cortex of hair.

Medulla

• It is the central part of the shaft and is generally noticeable in thick hairs.

• It is composed of two or three rows of polyhedral cells containing pigment granules and air spaces.

Hair Follicle

• It is surrounding the root of the hair.

• It is made up of an external root sheath and an internal root sheath.

• The external root sheath is downward continuation of the epidermis.

• Near the surface it contains all the epidermal layers.

• The external root sheath contains only stratum Basale.

• The hair follicle is divided into three segments.

• Around each hair follicle are nerve endings called hair root plexuses which are sensitive to touch.

• They respond if a hair shaft is moved.

1. Infundibulum

2. Isthmus

3. Inferior segment

Infundibulum

• It extends from the surface opening of the follicle from the surface opening of the follicle to the level of the opening of its sebaceous gland.

• The infundibulum's a part of the pilosebasecous canal that is used as a route for the discharge of sebum.

Isthmus

• It extends from the infundibulum to the level of insertion of the arrector pili muscle.

Inferior segment

• It is in the growing follicle of nearly uniform diameter except at its base

• The base of the bulb is invaginated by a tuft of vascularized loose connective tissue called dermal papilla.

• The papilla of the hair contains many blood vessels and provides nourishment for the growing hair.

• The bulb also contain a ring of cell called the matrix.

• Matrix is the germinal layer, responsible for the growth of the existing hairs and produce new hairs by cell division when older hairs are shed.

Sebaceous(oil) glands

• It is responsible for the oily secretion called sebum.

• Sebum is the mixture of fats, cholesterol, proteins and inorganic salts.

• It prevent hair drying and prevent excessive evaporation of water from the skin,

Hair color

• The color of the hair is due to primarily to melanin.

• It is synthesized by melanocytes scattered in the matrix of the bulb and passes into cells of the cortex and medulla.

• Dark-coloured hair contains mostly true melanin.

• Blond and red hair contain more sulfur.

• Grey hair occurs with a progressive decline in tyrosine, an enzyme necessary for synthesis of melanin.

• White hair results from accumulation of air bubbles in the medullary shaft.

Functions of Hair

1. Protective: The primary function of hair is protection.

The hair on the head provide protection from the head injury and

sunrays.

Eyebrows and eyelashes protect the eyes from foreign particles.

Hair in the nostrils protects against inhaling insects and foreign

particles.

2. Cosmetics: Long locks of shiny hairs is a cosmetic requirement, this is the only reason

hairs are shampooed, oiled, groomed, styled and even colored.

History of hair dye

• French researchers have found that Egyptians, Greek and Romans were using dyes several thousands years ago.

• Organic hair dyes obtained from plants such as henna have been used, but other unusual formulas based on lead compounds.

• In the 1661 Eighteen Books of the Secrets of Art & nature, various methods of coloring hair black,gold,green,red,yellow, and white are explained.

• Development of synthetic dyes for hair is traced to the 1860s discovery of the reactivity of para-phenylenediamine(PPD) with air.

History of hair dye

• Eugene Schueller, the founder of L’ORÉAL, is recognized for creating the first synthetic hair dye.

• In 1947 the German cosmetics firm Schwarzkopf launched the first home color product, “Poly Color”.

• Hair dying is now become a multibillion industry which involves the use of both plant-derived and synthetic dyes.

Desirable Qualities of a Hair colorant

• It should impart the same color which it indicates on its label.

• It must color the hairs only and not the skin.

• The color that it imparts to the hair must be stable to air, light, water and shampoo.

• It should be easy to apply.

• It should have reasonable stability or shelf life.

• It should not be toxic to the skin or hair and should not impart the natural gloss and texture of the hair.

• It should not be allergic and a dermatitis sensitizer.

• It should impart color to the hair in a short contact time.

Types of Hair color

Most common classifications

• Temporary

• Semi-Permanent

• Demi-Permanent:

-Oxidative Deposit-only

• Permanent:

-Deposit

-Oxidative

Temporary

• These type of hair colors used to color the hair for temporarily.

• The colorants which are used doesn’t penetrate into the hair or surroundings

• Can be easily rinsed off after one shampooing.

• Temporarily hair coloring some time used to apply finely ground metals by means of a “Puffer Spray”.

• Such metals, which includes brasses, bronzes and aluminum , both untreated and anodized in various colors, it provides metallic effect when applied to hair, mainly used for highlighting.

• Powders, setting lotions, crayons are used for temporary color.

• Hair spray is used to prevent the powder ‘brushing-off’ easily.

Temporary

• Temporary hair coloring may also achieved by using yhe leuco derivative of a basic dye like crystal violet.

• The various types of products used for temporary coloring of hair include rinses, lotions, aerosols, crayons, etc.

• In rinses aqueous or hydro alcoholic solutions of simple dye stuffs are used.

• In lotions dyes in solution with a transparent polymer, such as 3% polyvinyl pyrolidone in water or aqueous alcohol.

• Crayons are used either directly rubbed on to the wet hair or applied with the help of hair brush.

Hair Crayon

• Formula

Triethanolamine 70%

Glycerol monolaurate 5.5%

Gum Tragacanth 2.5%

Stearic acid 13.5%

Beeswax 5%

Carnauba wax 13.5%

Ozokerite 8%

Color 9.5%

Hair Dye Powder

• Formula

p-Phenylenediamine sulfate 11%

p-Aminophenol q.s

m-Phenylenediamine sulfate 15%

4-Chlororesorcinol 10%

Tetra sodium EDTA 1.50%

Erythorbic acid 3%

Carrageenan and Xanthan gum 11%

Sodium lauryl sulfate 11%

Monohydrate sodium perborate 25%

Sodium Chloride q.s

Temporary Colour-in-Shampoo

• Formula

Water 50.10%

Polyquaternium-10 1.50%

Methyl Paraben 0.15%

Propylene Glycol 2%

Disodium Cocamido Propionate 15%

Lauramide DEA 2%

Citric acid 0.70%

Lauramide Oxide 5.55%

PEG-5 hydrogenated tallow amine 4%

Colorant 1%

Semi-Permanent Colorants

• Most of them are basic dye stuffs, whose cationic character gives them a natural affinity for the hair.

• Metallized dye stuffs in combination with nitro derivatives of aromatic diamines or aminophenols.

• Shampoo is the most commonly used base.

• Performance of colorants can be enhanced by the inclusion of solvents.

• Semi-permanent dyes contain mainly either Nirtophenylene diamines either Nitroaminophenes or either Aminoanthraquinones.

Liquid Hair Color (Semi-Permanent)

• Formula

Basic dye <1

Cetyl trimethyl ammonium chloride-30% 3

Oleth-20 0.5

Hydroxy propylmethyl cellulose 0.8

Triethanolamine Up to ph 8

Preservative q.s.

Perfume q.s.

Benzyl alcohol 3

Deionised water Up to 100

Cream Hair Colourant(Semi-Permanent)

• FormulaBasic dyes <1

Cetyl trimethylammonium chloride-30% 4

Oleth-20 0.2

Cetosteryl alcohol 3

Glyceryl sterate/PEG-100 sterate 3

Triethanolamine Up to ph 8

Preservative q.s

Perfume q.s

Deionised water Up to 100

Shampoo Hair colourant(Semi-permaent)

• FormulaMetallized dyes <2

Ammonium lauryl sulfate-30% 10

Oleth-20 0.5

Hydroxy propyl methyl cellulose 0.5

Citric acid 0.3

Preservative q.s

Perfume q.s

Benzyl alcohol 2

PPG-2 butyl ether 2

Deionised water Up to 100

Permanent Hair color

• Most Popular hair dye products.

• The dyes are formed during the dyeing process and are not present, as such in the solution before application.

• Consists of two parts-(i) Dye intermediate

(ii) Oxiding agent

• Dye intermediates are blends of primary intermediates and coupling agents or modifier, in a suitable base.

• During the dying of hair, the intermediate solutions and the oxidizing solutions are mixed and

applied to the hair.

• The primary intermediates are gradually oxidized and then undergo coupling reacetion with modifiers.

Permanent Hair color

• The primary intermediate hould be an aromatic compound with least electrone donating groups in the 1,2 or 1,4 positions.

• The most effective combination are either two amino groups or one amino groups or one amino and one hydroxyl group attached to benzene or toluene ring.

Permanent Hair color

• Oxidation then takes place to form quinonimine e.g.,

Permanent Hair color

• Permanent dye systems are able to dye hair a lighter shade than the original.

• Peroxide and ammonia, present in excess to controlled oxidation of intermediates and simultaneously bleach hair.

• These dyes are capable of confusing the difference in color between individual hair.

• Very effective on mixed colored white hair and black hair.

• They cause some hair damage.

Base for Oxidation Hair Dye

• Formula

Isopropanol 7.5

Oleic acid 22

Coconut diethanolamide 10

Ammonium(0.880) 6.6

Deionised water q.s. to 100

Base for Oxidation Dye

• Formula

PPG-2-methyl ether 1.8

Oleic acid 4

Coconut diethanolamide 11

Sodium lauryl ether sulfate,27% 36

Salt q.s.

Ammonium(0.880) 2

Deionisd water q.s. to 100

Natural Permanent Dye

Vegetable Tints:

• Made up From plant materials and henna which gives

Brownish-chestnut shade.

• Henna is obtained by grinding leaves and stems of

Lawsonia alba known as Egyptien privet.

Problem:

• Henna can trigger asthma and other allergic reactions.

• Application is laborius and messy Cause staining of

Fingers and nails

Evalution Parameter of Hair Dye

• Consistency- It should not too viscous, otherwise application will become difficult, the consistency should be minimum so that after application it will not drain off.

• Spreadabillity- Hair dye should be easily spreadable so it can easily apply evenly.

• Color Uniformity- The color of hair dye and hair color should be uniform, color shade should be remains same and gives desired color after application.

• pH- pH should be netural.

Evalution Parameter of Hair Dye

Allergy test:

• Remove earrings. Behind the ear and using a cotton bud, apply a small quantity of unmixed colorant product sufficient to cover an area of 1-2cm² (e.g. the size of a small coin).

• Re-apply two or three times allowing it to dry between each application. Carefully reseal the colorant container and keep it for the application 48 hours later.

• Leave for 48 hours without washing, covering or touching.

• If during this period you notice any abnormal reactions, such as itching, redness or swelling in or around the test area, Do Not Apply The Product.

References

• Google

• Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry by Williams and Schmitt.

• Cosmetics by Poucher.

• Cosmetics by Sagarin

• Cosmetics: Formulation Manufacture and Quality Control by P.P. Sharma

Thank You