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Assembly Instructions for an 8’x12’x20” Garden To Gro®

Assembly of the garden requires two people. You will need the following items to complete the assembly:

1) Power screwdriver 2) Level 3) Pliers 4) Tape measure 5) 4.5 yards soil 6) Soil amendments 7) 9 volt battery

Step 1—Site Selection An ideal area for the garden is one that:

1) receives at least 6 hours of sunshine per day 2) is relatively flat 3) can be accessed with a wheelbarrow and 4) is near a spigot or a pressured water line

Step 2—Site Preparation Level the area where the garden will be located and remove any sod, bushes or debris. Make sure that there will be sufficient space to walk around the garden. You will need space to access the battery operated controller located on the side of the garden. You will also need to level and clear the area in front of the garden so the 30” gate can swing open. Cap off any sprinkler heads that are located beneath the garden area. If other heads are close to the garden, rotate them to minimize spray onto the garden area.

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Step 3—Assemble the Raised Beds and Fencing The redwood sections must be assembled in a C-shape, in the manner shown below.

There are two pairs of each redwood board. They will be stacked on top of one another to create 20” high garden beds. Using the designated lumber boards and the raised bed brackets, build the bottom level first, then add the top level lumber boards and last, add the fencing sections. Start with boards A and B. Position the boards so they are located at the rear of the garden. The stained side should face outward, so the natural side will face the soil. This kit includes two T brackets and 12 corner brackets. First, use a T bracket to connect boards A,B and I. The bracket should be placed against the stained side of boards A and B. Board I should be placed against the natural sides of boards A and B. Use 3” screws in the middle of the bracket to connect to board I and 1-1/4” screws for the rest of the bracket. Using the garden bed corner brackets and screws, attach boards C and B. The 3” screws should go through board C into board B. Use the 1-1/4” screws to secure the rest of the bracket. Assemble the remaining lumber boards with brackets in the manner shown in the diagram above. Using the remaining T bracket, secure board I, the unstained board, to board H. The T bracket should be placed on the stained side of board H. Next, place the second level of boards on top of the first level and secure to the brackets. Make sure the lumber boards with the pre-drilled hole (N) and (J) are located on top of the other boards marked N and J. See the circles shown on the drawing of the garden bed layout, indicating the pre-drilled holes.* * The battery-operated controller will later be affixed to the board with two pre-drilled holes. If your water source is on the right side of the garden, you may switch boards J and N with boards G and C (they are the same size).

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Next, attach the two 4’ high fence sections (AA and BB) to the top of boards A and B, using three 3” screws. The attractive side of the trellis (without the staples) should face the front of the garden. Use a 3” screw at each point where a pilot hole has been drilled into the bottom 2”x2” frame of the fencing section. Then, using 3” screws, attach the 2”x2” frames of the upper fence sections AA and BB to one another. Drill through the frame of AA into the frame of BB. Use a screw at each point where a pilot hole has been drilled. Unlike sections AA and BB, the remaining fencing sections should be positioned with the staple side facing inward and the attractive side (without the staples) facing outward. Attach fence section CC to the upper board C, attach DD, MM and NN to the corresponding upper board letters in the same manner. Next, attach the side sections to the back sections. Screw threw the 2”x2” frame of section BB into the 2”x2” frame section of CC. Attach sections AA and NN in the same manner. Then, connect the front sections to the side sections. Section DD has two 2”x2” frame pieces on the left side, while section MM has two 2”x2” frame pieces on the right side. When connecting the front sections to the side sections, use one 3” screw where the pilot hole has been drilled. Screw through the 2”x2” frame of section DD into the 2”x2” frame of section CC. Similarly, screw through the 2”x2” frame of section MM into the frame of section NN. There are nine unstained 2”x4” lumber boards, which may be used to prevent separation of the top and bottom sections of the garden beds. Place them vertically inside the beds to secure the top 2”x10” boards to the lower 2”x10” boards, using 3” screws. Step 4—Check The Level Place a level on each side to make sure the garden pad is completely level. Adjust the grade as necessary. Then measure from the back right corner diagonally to the front left corner and from the back left corner to the front right corner. If the garden is square, the two measurements should be the same. Adjust the redwood sections as necessary to make the garden square. Step 5—Wire Floor Lay the two 6’ pieces across the back bed. Lay the 5’6” pieces vertically, along the sides of the bed. Flatten the two smallest pieces of wire, and lay them down in the part of the bed on the sides of the gate opening. Fold up the edges of the wire and press it against the sides of the redwood beds. Step 6—Post Covers Next, attach the 1”x4” post covers. There are three long post covers for the back of the garden—one for the center and one for each side. Position one long post cover on the outside of the garden at the seam of sections AA and BB. Standing inside the garden, look for the two pilot holes in the frames of fencing sections AA and BB. Use two 2-1/2” screws to fasten the 2”x2” frame piece to the 1”x4” post cover. If necessary, you may also screw through the lower 2”x10” board into the post cover to prevent it from flaring out near the bottom. No pilot holes have been pre-drilled into the 2”x10” boards. Simply select a spot 3”-6” from the bottom of the lower 2”x10” board, where the screw will go through the board into

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the post cover. Then, attach the post covers at junctions B-C and A-N in the same manner. When standing behind the garden, the post covers should conceal the corner brackets at the bottom of the structure as well as the seams where the back and side sections are joined. Next, attach the four 3’ post covers to the front of the garden fence, so the garden brackets are not visible from the front of the garden. There should be post covers at the following junctions: C-D, D-E, L-M, M-N. While standing inside the garden, using 2-1/2” screws, drill through the 2”x2” frame piece into the 1”x4” post cover, so the screws do not show from the front of the garden.

After the post covers are affixed, the gate may be installed. Using the hinges and latch, attach the gate to the post covers. There should be a ½” gap on either side of the gate. The top of the 2”x2” frame pieces of the gate should be ¼” below the height of the post covers to the sides of the gate. This will allow the gate to swing open properly. Next attach the post caps. Use two 3” screws for each post cap.

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Step 7—Irrigation Remove the timer from the box and review the timer instructions. Locate each fitting that has a threaded male end (there are 9). Using the tape, tightly wrap each male threaded fitting 3-4 times. Tightly screw the two 2” nipples (grey fittings with threaded male end on both sides) into the timer. Use pliers to tighten all fittings. Then, tightly screw the other side of the 2” nipples into the unions (the grey circular fittings) and tighten each part of the unions. Holding the timer so that you can see the arrow, tightly screw another 2” nipple into the union on the right. Next, tightly screw the T-fitting into the other side of the 2” nipple that was attached in the last step. Screw a 2” nipple into the other side of the T-fitting and screw the black garden hose adaptor into the middle part of the T-fitting. Locate the shut off valve (white with a black knob). Screw the shut off valve into the 2” nipple that is attached to the T-fitting. Locate the two blue male elbow fittings. Screw one into the grey union piece on the left side and one into shut off valve on the right. Next, locate the two pieces of tubing. Connect the 12” piece to the blue fitting on the left by firmly pressing the tubing into the blue fitting. Connect the 42” piece of blue tubing into the blue fitting that is on the right, by the shut-off valve, again firmly pressing the tubing into the blue fitting. Then, from the outside of the garden, put the tubing through the pre-drilled holes on the side board. Locate the two straps and place them around the unions. Use the straps with 1-1/4” screws and washers to secure the irrigation unit to the outside of the garden structure. Attach one female blue fitting to the white threaded hose adaptor and attach the other female blue fitting to the black threaded hose adaptor. Then, attach the 12” blue tubing into the female blue fitting that is connected to the white adaptor. Attach the 42” tubing to the other female blue fitting that is connected to the black adaptor. Below is a photo of the assembled controller and fittings.

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Place a battery (not included) in the controller and set the controller according to the manufacturer’s instructions. We recommend watering the garden twice a day for 2-4 minutes each time. Connect a garden hose to the garden hose adaptor at the T-fitting to test the system. Twist the shut off valve open to flush out any rocks or debris that might have gotten into the pipes. Briefly turn the water on from the water source to make sure there are no leaks. Then, close the shut off valve. Turn the water on again from the water source and press the “manual” button on the controller to make sure water comes out of the blue fitting with the 12” tubing. Correct any leaks by tightening fittings as necessary, before moving on to the next step. Except when the coil hose is being used, the shut-off valve should remain in the off position, so the coil hose is not under constant pressure. Standing inside the garden, attach the hose holder to the board with the hole in it, just above the pre-drilled hole.

Place the coil hose around the hose holder and push the female end through pre-drilled hole in the lumber board. Then connect the female end of the coil hose to the black hose adaptor that is attached to the 42” piece of tubing. If your water pressure is above 80 psi, a pressure regulator (not included) should be used to reduce the water pressure to 20-50 psi. This item can be purchased at any hardware store that sells irrigation fittings. It can be connected to your garden hose. Step 8—Amended Soil Fill the garden beds with approximately 4.5 yards of soil. Compact the soil slightly so that it will not sink when water is added. Spread the soil amendments (not included) evenly on the beds. Mix in thoroughly in the top 6” of soil.

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Step 9—Soaker Hose Unwind the 75’ soaker hose. Then, attach one end to the soaker hose adaptor. Place the soaker hose on top of the soil so that it winds through the garden beds. Use the earth staples to hold the hose in place.

Step 10—Walkway Place the weed barrier in the walkway using earth staples to hold it in place. Cover the barrier with wood chips or gravel. You’re now ready to plant. Step 11—Hard-line Tie-in It is best if the garden is connected to your irrigation system. A garden hose will work for the short term, but will probably eventually leak. Remove the garden hose adaptor and connect the threaded T to the nearest spigot or pressured line (with supplies not provided with this kit). Be sure to add a shut-off valve and a pressure regulator if your water pressure is greater than 80 psi. Someone with experience in irrigation work should perform the hard-line tie-in. Enjoy your garden!