greentech(presenta0on€¦ · may 2015. march)2017 phytosterols ecdysone (12%) mw 464.63 g/mol logp...
TRANSCRIPT
GREENTECH presenta0on
©GREENTECH -‐ DOC 03_904 V01/17
March 2017
Europe trends in cosme0cs
‣A"rac&on for natural ingredients Our por5olio Zoom on the charcoal
‣ Use of probioDcs
‣ Always looking young Zoom on the masks phenomenon
‣ Hair care products Zoom on « low poo » products
‣ PersonalizaDon and ethnical beauty
A8rac0on for natural ingredients
March 2017
Organic cosme0cs
‣ Revenue of the market for organic skin care products expected to grow at a rate of 9,9% from 2012 to 2018
‣ Products with natural ingredients: more prone to microbial a[acks
Top factors impacting world cosmetics market
↗ Rate of use of natural ingredients by 2022
March 2017
GREENTECH’s answer
ACTIVE INGREDIENTS: Liquid, Pasty, Solid •Titrated in acDve molecules / purified molecules •Quality et traceability: tracer of acDvity and idenDficaDon •In tubo, vitro, vivo tests for efficiency •New technology: CryoextracDon, Chromatography, Soc extracts…
INGREDIENTS: •SOFT BUTTERS, OILS •EXTRACTS: on different supports for several formulaDons •SPECIFIC WATERS: seawaters, fresh waters… •SCRUBS •OTHERS: DisDllates, essenDal oils… •For history MarkeDng of the plant, the origin
More than 3 000 ingredients from any natural sources
March 2017
Zoom on the charcoalCoal se"les into our beauty rou&ne to purify and detoxify deeply our skin. Masks, micellar water, toothpaste ... It is found in various hygiene and beauty products.
History :
The use of charcoal in
cosmetics is very old. Evidence
of its use goes back to
antiquity. The first archives of
its use in skincare products
date from the XIXth century.
Do not confuse :- Black carbon : used as a base
pigment in black make-up products such as eye pencils, eye-liners or mascaras.
- Active plant charcoal : now widely used in a multitude of treatments
Vegetable charcoal properties :- absorb bacteria and toxins- alleviate body odors- detoxify the epidermis
March 2017
Europe trends in cosme0cs
‣ A[racDon for natural ingredients Zoom on the charcoal
‣Use of probio&cs BIOTILYS®
‣ Always looking young Zoom on the masks phenomenon
‣ Hair care products Zoom on « low poo » products
‣ PersonalizaDon and ethnical beauty
Use of probio0cs
March 2017
Probio0cs
‣ Emergence of food-‐based and probioDc facial skincare
‣In cosmeDcs, no standardised defini&on of probioDcs
‣ ProbioDcs : microbes added to formulaDons
According to the CEO of The South African ESSE which markets products containing live probio=cs., the company is growing at an
impressive 300% per annum.
March 2017
DEFINITION: ProbioDcs are live microorganisms that may confer a health benefit on the host
Balance our immune system
Enhance the intes&nal barrier func&on
Prevent intes&nal barrier dysfunc&on
Inhibit the growth of some pathogens
Probio0cs
Regulate intes&nal homeostasis
Probio0cs
March 2017
“Protects your skin under any
circumstances”
Issued from probio0cs
BIOTILYS®
March 2017
Barrier homeostasis maintenance for a beau0ful skin
‣ Protects the skin from the first applicaDon
‣ Protects the skin in a long-‐term way
‣ Helps the skin to repair faster
‣ Improves skin moisturizaDon
‣ Increases skin radiance
‣ Reduces shiny skin
SKIN HYDRATION RADIANCE, LUMINOSITY,
YOUTHFULNESS
BIOTILYS®
March 2017
BIOTILYS® for an immediate and
op0mal protec0on
BIOTILYS® : test on volunteers
ColdTemperature
Wind Excessive heat Washing
Allergens
Daily environmental a"acks
Pathogens
March 2017
BIOTILYS® : ma8ifies shine and illuminates
skin
AXer only 3h, BIOTILYS® decreases the skin shininess in 87% of the
volunteers
AXer 7 days of applica&on, BIOTILYS® increases the radiance of the skin in
87% of the volunteers
Before AXer one week of use
BIOTILYS® : test on volunteers
March 2017
Complete range of skin care -‐ Protec=on
Face cream -‐ Protec=on, An=-‐redness
BIOTILYS® in the market
March 2017
Europe trends in cosme0cs
‣ A[racDon for natural ingredients Zoom on the charcoal
‣ Use of probioDcs
‣Always looking young LIFTISS®, REVERSKIN®, SOLIBERINE® Zoom on the masks phenomenon
‣ Hair care products Zoom on « low poo » products
‣ PersonalizaDon and ethnical beauty
Always looking young
March 2017
Looking young
‣ Good looks : sensaDon of well-‐being, posiDve self-‐esteem
‣Health : increasing concerns about skin cancer and prevenDng signs of aging
‣Emerging trends in anD-‐aging is in hair care
March 2017
LIFTISS®Immediate effect on wrinkles surface
March 2017
• Issued from Baobab pulp
• Sustainable development and fair trade: the major product from the Burkina Faso chain
Tensor -‐ Immediate liRing effect Instant an0-‐wrinkles effect to get a revitalized and liRed skin
LIFTISS®
March 2017
• 20 volunteers : smoothing effect 5 min acer the applicaDon of formula containing 5% LIFTISS®
• Analysis by profilometry on eye contour area
‣ For 72% of volunteers, LIFTISS® allows decreasing the furrows number of the microrelief by -‐ 41%
‣ For 67% of volunteers, LIFTISS® allows decreasing the wrinkled surface by -‐ 24% ‣ For 61% of volunteers, LIFTISS® allows decreasing the deep wrinkles number by -‐ 8%
‣ For 67% volunteers, LIFTISS® allows decreasing medium wrinkles number by -‐7%
T0 T5min
LIFTISS® : test on volunteers
March 2017
SENSORIAL TEST
Tensor/lifting effect
No tensor/lifting effect
Improvement in cutaneous aspect
No improvement in cutaneous aspect
• 67% volunteers felt an immediate liXing effect
• More than 60% volunteers felt an improvement in cutaneous aspect
LIFTISS® : test on volunteers
March 2017
An=-‐aging eye essence -‐ Firming
Eye serum -‐ Firming, LiHing
LIFTISS® in the market
Radiance resurfacing care -‐ Renewing, Revealing,
Refining
May 2015
March 2017
PHYTOSTEROLS
Ecdysone (12%)
MW 464.63 g/mol
LogP 2.92
• Issued from a tropical fern named metuapua’a in French Polynesia (Microsorum grossum)
One of the most frequently used fern species in Polynesian traditional medicine Rich in a phytobioactive agent namely phytoecdysones obtained by adsorption chromatography
GREENTECH uses it for the first time in cosmetics
REVERSKIN®
March 2017
Recreates volume and relief of young skin
Restores stratum corneum cohesion and skin barrier integrity
Strengthens the basal membrane
SDmulates definiDon and cohesion of the DEJ
Maintains the structure, funcDon and stability of the ECM
Improves the elasDcity, the density and the firmness of aged skin
APPLICATIONS: An&-‐aging skin care -‐ Regenera&ng, densifying, an&-‐
wrinkling, firming, and restoring benefits
REVERSKIN®Reverses the signs of skin aging
March 2017
DEJ
Epidermis
Dermis
DEJ : DERMAL-‐EPIDERMAL JUNCTION
Collagens IV and VII: markers of elasDcity and firmness
Laminin 5: contribuDon to resistance of the DEJ ➡ epidermal cohesion and integrity
Perlecan: anchorage factor, stabilizes the DEJ ➡ skin firmness and density
REVERSKIN®SCIENTIFIC PROCESS
March 2017
Control reconstructed skin (with 50 years old fibroblasts)
REVERSKIN® (0,2%) reconstructed skin (with 50 years old fibroblasts)
Young reconstructed skin (with 20 years old fibroblasts)
27 µm73 µm 62 µm
REVERSKIN® increases the epidermal thickness
of reconstructed skin model with old
fibroblasts, comparable to skin equivalents
made with young fibroblasts (*p<0.05;
**p<0.01)
x2.3
***
Epidermis thickness (µm)
REVERSKIN® : test on 3D reconstructed skin
D35
March 2017
REVERSKIN®Control
D35
REVERSKIN® significantly increases basal kera0nocyte self-‐renewal responsible for the epidermal thickness
x3.3
Ki67 positive cells***
REVERSKIN® significantly increases cell prolifera&on
marker, Ki67, by 3.3 &mes, demonstra&ng pro-‐
regenera&ve proper&es (***p<0.001)
REVERSKIN® : test on 3D reconstructed skin
March 2017
REVERSKIN® improves skin elas0city and firmness
REVERSKIN® increases fibrillin expression, a
glycoprotein, essen&al for the forma&on of elas&c
fibers (p<0.05)
REVERSKIN®Control
D35
Fibrillin positive area
+25%
REVERSKIN® : test on 3D reconstructed skin
March 2017
x 2.5 (p<0.05)
x 1.5 (p<0.05)
Control ControlREVERSKIN® REVERSKIN®
D28 D56
Measurement of hydra0on using Corneometer®
REVERSKIN® significantly increases skin hydra&on compared to placebo
REVERSKIN® : test on volunteers
March 2017
REVERSKIN® 2% increases skin isotropy demonstra&ng an an&-‐aging/
restructuring effect (n=30 volunteers)
Measurement of isotropy (evalua0on of surface wrinkles) parameter (3D PRIMOS® Lite)
REVERSKIN® : test on volunteers
March 2017
Measurement of firmness-‐ R0 parameter (Cutometer®)
REVERSKIN® improves the
biomechanical parameters of the
skin, skin firmness and refines
skin texture
REVERSKIN® : test on volunteers
(*p<0.05) (**p=0.08)
March 2017
At D28, wrinkles are visibly smoothed
REVERSKIN® D28Control D0
Visible an0-‐wrinkle effect
REVERSKIN® : test on volunteers
Volunteer 16
March 2017
GLOBAL PHOTOPROTECTOR
March 2017
‣ From Buddleja officinalis flowers ‣ Tree from area of the sacred mountains in Sichuan province (in China)
‣Highly concentrated in VERBASCOSIDE and ECHINACOSIDE (2 photoprotective shields, powerful natural active ingredients)
SOLIBERINE®
Echinacoside ≈ 3% (DM*)
*Dry Matter
Verbascoside ≈ 15%
March 2017
SOLIBERINE® as a global photoprotector
SOLIBERINE®‣A powerful skin defense system, which maintains skin’s YOUTH, QUALITY and RADIANCE.
‣SOLIBERINE® prevents from dark spots, redness and premature wrinkles.
March 2017
In vitro 2D Models
NHEK or NHDF
In vitro 3D Models and explants
In vivo Clinical study
In tubo Chemical assays
Antioxidant Colorimetric assay FRAP & DPPH
Anti-‐inflammation Enzymatic assay 5-‐LOX and COX-‐2
Lipid peroxidation + UVB on liposomal fraction
TBARS
Free Radicals on NHEK + Blue Light (HEV)
Urocanic Acid on tape strips from Stratum corneum + UV(A+C) MMP-‐1 on NHDF + IR
On 30 volunteers + 4 UV(A+B) from 290 to 400 nm exposures for 21 days versus Placebo
▪ Parameter a* (measurement of erythema)
▪ Calculation of ITA°(measurement of skin pigmentation)
On 3D reconstructed full-‐thickness model + UVB
▪ Apoptotic cells (TUNEL) ▪ Sunburns cells (Melan-‐A) ▪ Melanin
▪MMP-‐1
▪ Elastin
Dermal absorption on ex vivo Human skin
SOLIBERINE®
March 2017
On Keratinocytes irradiated with blue light (HEV). ROS measurement
after irradiation.
‣ SOLIBERINE® significantly reduces ROS production induced by blue light ‣ SOLIBERINE® protects from oxidative damages induced by blue light
Control (no blue light)
UntreatedSOLIBERINE®
0.1%SOLIBERINE®
0.01%SOLIBERINE®
0.03%
-‐43%-‐42%-‐37%
ROS prod
uction
(RFU
, Relative Fuorescence Units)
+ Blue light (7 mW/cm2, 20 min), λ = 420 nm
******* ****
***p<0.001 ****p<0.0001
Protection against free radicals after Blue Light exposure
SOLIBERINE® : test In vitro
March 2017
On Fibroblasts irradiated with IR. Measurement of MMP-‐1 release by ELISA (colorimetric assay).
‣ SOLIBERINE® reduces by 22% infrared-‐induced MMP-‐1 release ‣ SOLIBERINE® preserves extracellular matrix and prevents its premature degradation induced by IR
Control (no IR)
+ INFRARED (0.66 kJ/cm2) 1h + quantification at 48h
Untreated Dexamethasone (+ control, 10-‐7 M)
SOLIBERINE® 0.1%
-‐22%
MMP-‐1 release (pg/ml) *
*p<0.05
Protection against ECM degradation after Infrared exposure
SOLIBERINE® : test In vitro
March 2017
‣ SOLIBERINE® stimulates Elastin production in normal condition and under UV exposure ‣ SOLIBERINE® preserves extracellular matrix
SOLIBERINE® 0.1% + UVB
Control + UVB (200 mJ/cm2)
On 3D reconstructed full-‐thickness model irradiated with UVB. Elastin quantification by fluorescence after 24h.
*p<0.05 ***p<0.001
+ UVB
Stimulation of Elastin production
SOLIBERINE® : test In vitro
March 2017
Volunteer n°01
Untreated area
Placebo area
SOLIBERINE® 2%
Without UV + UV
D11 (24h after the last irradiation at 1.2 MED)
D21
Without UV + UV
Visible protective effect against UV-‐induced erythema
SOLIBERINE® : test In vivo
March 2017
Zoom on the masks phenomenon« Masks make the buzz by mul&plying their offer and their effec&veness care »
Advantages :
-‐ Efficient thanks to a big quanDty of acDves
-‐ PracDcal and fast acDng
-‐ Typically feminine but also ideal for men
-‐ Creamy textures, allowing to offer a "cocooning" and comforDng treatment
Efficient, prac&cal and comfortable
This trend is in keeping with the dream of a perfect skin obtained in a night or in few minutes.
March 2017
Europe trends in cosme0cs
‣ A[racDon for natural ingredients Zoom on the charcoal
‣ Use of probioDcs
‣ Always looking young Zoom on the masks phenomenon
‣Hair care products TILICINE®, INCA INCHI Oil Zoom on « low poo » products
‣ PersonalizaDon and ethnical beauty
Hair care products
March 2017
Hair care products
‣ In 2016, global haircare arket esDmated around USD 83,1 billion → Expected to grow to reach 94,5 billion in 2021
‣Health, baldness, hair loss and grey hair = major preoccupaDons
‣HairceuDcals very popular
March 2017
Cryoextract of Linden buds
CryoextracDon
Patented process
TILICINE®
March 2017
CRYOEXTRACTION
ADVANTAGES ‣ Preserva0on of the integrity of the ac0ves principles (enzymes, vitamins and polyphenols) ‣ Preserva0on of colour, odour, and biological integrity ‣ The ac0ve molecules content is higher than the one obtained from dried plants
Patented cryogenic process
March 2017
Hair volume + An0-‐sta0c
TILICINE®
March 2017
Coa0ng + Smoothing EFFECT
TILICINE®
March 2017
Shampoo & condi=oner -‐ Extra volume, Revitalizing, Enhancing
body Gently condi=ons
TILICINE® in the market
Mist for fine and normal hair -‐ Volumizing, Gives body
March 2017
Mascara -‐ Volumizing, Thicker effect, Longer eyelashes
TILICINE® in the market
INCA INCHI :
An example of sustainable
development with La&n America
January 2017
‣ Pressed from Amazonia plant known by local people for thousands of years; Incas civilizaDon already consumed it.
‣ The richest oil in unsaturated fa[y acids: up to 94% of total content
‣ The richest oil in Omega 3 (compared with oils of all oleaginous seeds)
INCA INCHI Oil
January 2017
REPAIRING effect on hair
INCA INCHI Oil
January 2017
REPAIRING effect on hair
INCA INCHI Oil
March 2017
Complete range of hair care -‐ Hair
repair
INCA INCHI Oil in the market
Precious oil for face, body and hair -‐
Nutri=on, Embellishment
March 2017
Zoom on the « low poo products »
‣ IniDally, ritual used by women with curly and frizzy hair to give a fresh blow to their mane : applicaDon of condiDoner and a good rinse ‣ Widely used in the summer acer the beach to feed without drying more
‣ Today, many brands offer a new generaDon of products that they call "low poo" or "co-‐washing" for washing condiDoner : these neo-‐shampoos contain few surfactants and many care agents.
What is the « low poo trend »?
✓without s
ilicones
✓without p
arabens
✓without s
ulphates
✓without m
ineral or
essenDal o
ils
March 2017
Europe trends in cosme0cs
‣ A[racDon for natural ingredients Zoom on the charcoal
‣ Use of probioDcs
‣ Always looking young Zoom on the masks phenomenon
‣ Hair care products Zoom on « low poo » products
‣Personaliza&on and ethnical beauty
Personaliza0on and ethnical beauty
March 2017
Personaliza0on and ethnic beauty
‣ Desire for more individuality and personalized products
‣Beauty code more natural and diverse
‣Each skin and hair type -‐> its own characterisDc and needs
March 2017
Example : adapted complexes
‣ Complex blond hair (German camomile)
‣Complex brown hair (Walnut tree)
‣Complex red-‐brown hair (Henna)
www.greentech.fr [email protected]
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