great gardens fall 2014

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GREAT GARDENS Ideas for Smart Gardeners WITH MAGAZINE FALL 2014 Force Spring Bulbs into Winter Bloom Easy Fall Tricks for Better Soil The Rundown on Fall Garden Cleanup Winter Wreaths With Personality

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Shift from fall to winter in the garden with the tips and easy projects in this issue.

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Page 1: Great Gardens Fall 2014

GREAT GARDENSIdeas for Smart Gardeners

WITH MAGAZINE

F A L L 2 0 1 4

Force Spring Bulbs into Winter Bloom

Easy Fall Tricks for Better Soil

The Rundown on Fall Garden Cleanup

Winter Wreaths With Personality

Page 2: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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7

13

Autumn Au Revoir

Tenacious Tulips

Page 3: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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03 EDITOR’S NOTEDetails, Details

05 OUR FAVORITE THINGSGreat Gardening Gear

24 TIME-SAVING TIPSFall: On the Ground

26 CONTAINER GARDENING Forcing the Issue

29 GARDEN ARTFreeze Frame

31 PLANT PROFILES Early Bulbs

32 SMALL SPACES Winning Wreaths

34 KIDS GARDENWaterproof Plants

36 KITCHEN GARDENINGGarlic

38 QUOTE OF THE SEASONWallace Stevens

Page 4: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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Fall gives me mixed emotions in

terms of the garden in each year.

On one hand I’m sad to see the summer’s

flowers and foliage go; on the other hand I’m a

little relieved to put the garden to bed and focus on

indoor pursuits for a while. Happily, there’s next

year’s garden to look forward to, plus the fun of

planning it at the fireside all winter.

This issue of Great Gardens includes a few last-

minute outdoor garden tasks as well as some

projects and ideas for gardening indoors in the

coming winter. Use the rest of fall to improve

your soil, clean up the garden and plant garlic and

spring-flowering bulbs. Reserve a few of those

bulbs for indoor forcing, though, and gear up for

growing wet-tolerant houseplants with the kids,

choosing your perfect winter wreath and making

frozen garden decorations. You’ll find all of the

above and more in these pages. Enjoy!

— Meghan Shinn :: E D I T O R

Page 5: Great Gardens Fall 2014

EDITORIAL

[email protected]

Community Leader Patty Dunning

Editor Meghan Shinn

CONTENT CONTRIBUTORS

Meghan Shinn, Kelsea Daulton

DESIGN & PHOTOGRAPHY

Art Director Bethany Rainbolt

Managing Photographer Ric Deliantoni

Photographer Al Parrish

ADVERTISING

[email protected]

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F+W MEDIA INC.

Chairman & CEO David Nussbaum

CFO James Ogle

President David Blansfield

SVP, Operations Phil Graham

Chief Digital Officer, eMedia Chad Phelps

Director, IT Jim Kuster

Director of Finance Trent Miller

Events Director Cory Smith

Audience Development Paul Rolnick

Privacy promise: Occasionally, we make portions of our customer list

available to other companies so they may contact you about products

and services that may be of interest to you. If you prefer that we

withhold your name, simply send a note with the magazine name to:

List Manager, F+W Media Inc., 10151 Carver Road Suite 200, Blue Ash

OH 45242.

Page 6: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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Page 8: Great Gardens Fall 2014

Au RevoirIn most of the United States,

late fall spells an end to out-door gardening. It’s time to clean up the garden before looking ahead to next year’s plans. Here’s a rundown of common fall garden tasks.

A quick and dirty guide to fall garden cleanup

by Meghan Shinn

Autumn

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Page 9: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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Page 10: Great Gardens Fall 2014

1. TREE LEAVES• Gone are the days when it was believed

every last fallen leaf should be sucked from the landscape and carted away at the season’s end. Deciduous leaves are a valuable material that should remain in the garden whenever feasible.

• Small or narrow leaves can be left to lie where they fall in garden beds, and raked into beds from lawn areas.

• Larger tree leaves can be raked evenly over lawn areas and run over several times with a mulching lawn mower. This will shred them into tiny pieces that will quickly decompose and feed the lawn’s soil with valuable nitrogen.

• Shredded leaves can also be raked back into garden beds to serve as mulch, or added to a compost pile.

• Leaves can be piled or bagged and left to turn into leaf mold, which can later be spread in the garden. More on leaf mold.

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Page 11: Great Gardens Fall 2014

2. VEGETABLE & FRUIT GARDENS• Edible gardens that will lie

fallow over the winter should be cleaned of all plant debris and gardening aids.

• Pull up spent plants that were healthy throughout the growing season, as well as any weeds, and add them to the compost pile.

• Do not add weeds with seed heads or diseased plants to your compost, but instead seal them in garbage bags and send them off with household trash.

• Pick up stakes, row labels and other non-permanent garden fixtures. Store them for next year or dispose of them if they are no longer usable.

• With the soil now bare, apply any organic soil amendments or mulch so that they can settle over the winter.

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Page 12: Great Gardens Fall 2014

3. ORNAMENTAL BEDS• Beds and borders of ornamental plants can be cleaned

up in the fall or left standing until spring. The degree of cleanup depends on personal preference—some gardeners prefer to leave plants standing as winter interest, wildlife cover or for other reasons, while some gardeners feel they have more time for cleanup in the fall rather than early spring.

• Annual plants can be pulled and added to the compost pile, unless they were diseased, in which case they should be put in the trash.

• Perennials can be cut back any time after the first hard frost. Trimmings can be composted or trashed, depending on the plant’s health. If you break healthy spent perennials into small pieces you can simply compost them in place—just spread them in the garden as you do with fallen leaves.

• You may wish to leave perennials standing if they add winter interest through their foliage or seed heads; their seeds will attract winter birds; or they are marginally hardy to your zone. (Their presence may offer some protection to their roots.)

• Wait to prune shrubs until they’re in winter dormancy, or after they’ve bloomed in spring.

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Page 13: Great Gardens Fall 2014

4. TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES• Remove any pots, furniture and statues or other decorations that may be damaged by winter weather.

Store them in an enclosed space.• Gather stakes from the garden and store them with other tools. • Examine all tools to see what may need maintenance or replacing before spring. Clean and dry all

tools and plan to sharpen any that need it over the winter.• Drain hoses and empty watering cans before storing them. Shut the valve that runs water to outside

spigots in regions with freezing winters.• Put things away in an organized manner so you can hit the ground running in spring. •

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Page 14: Great Gardens Fall 2014

tulipsTurn to the wild types for their rugged health and perennial natureby Sally Ferguson photographs courtesy of Colorblends.com

tenacious

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Page 15: Great Gardens Fall 2014

Does your garden have a spot of rocky or sandy poor soil where plants tend to perish? Try planting “wild,” or species, tulips there this fall, for a beautiful flowering display next spring—and many springs to come.

“Wild tulips are generally much smaller and shorter than Dutch hybrid tulips,” says Christian Curless, horticulturist for the U.S. flower-bulb com-pany Colorblends. “They actually respond well to neglect, thriving in sites where other flowers might fail. They’re particularly appealing in scrappy

natural-looking areas where their open-faced spring flowers are a fun surprise.”For success with species tulips, bear in mind their natural origins: the forbidding mountains and

barren steppes of Central Asia, the Mideast and China. (For the record: the wild tulips sold today by top-tier companies like Colorblends aren’t collected from the wild, but instead propagated on tulip farms.) The right garden spot, says Curless, is one with full sun, good drainage, no foraging animals and no sprinklers or soaker hoses over the summer. They’re suited to USDA Zones 3–7.

For best effect, plant them in scattered clusters in rock gardens, along fences or walks, even in gravel patios, he suggests. Wild tulips will partner well with low-growing plants with similar needs, such as short varieties of stonecrop (Sedum), which also thrive in poor soil and hot, dry locations. Plant them in fall, once night temperatures remain between 40 and 45˚F or below and before the ground freezes solid, burying them four inches deep. After they bloom in spring, allow their leaves to whither away naturally; this recharges the bulb. Turn the page for selections.

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Page 16: Great Gardens Fall 2014

1. TULIPA BAKERI ‘LILAC WONDER’: Its lilac-pink flowers with deep yellow centers bob daintily in soft spring breezes, weathering hard rains and wind with equal aplomb.

FAVORITE WILD TULIPS FOR THE GARDEN

2. TULIPA BATALINI ‘BRIGHT GEM’: The flower is a warm butterscotch that gains glints of bronze over time. Late to come up in spring, this short, sturdy tulip shines in more barren settings.

3. TULIPA CLUSIANA ‘TUBERGEN’S GEM’: The yellow flower petals are stroked with crimson on the outside. When warmed by the sun, the flowers open into bright golden stars.

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Page 17: Great Gardens Fall 2014

4. TULIPA KOLPAKOWSKIANA: Red brushes the outside of its lemon-yellow flowers. Given full sun and soil that drains well, this species tulip can come back to bloom for several years.

5. TULIPA TARDA: A multi-flowering tulip with bright yellow star-shaped flowers edged in white, it’s reliably perennial in full sun in well-drained soil.

6. TULIPA TURKESTANICA: This golden-eyed wildflower is particularly appealing in mass plantings where its sweet fragrance can be enjoyed. •

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Page 18: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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TIME-SAVING TIPS •

Fall: On the GroundNow is the time

to attend to soil health

WHETHER YOU’RE PLANNING to plant a new bed next spring or you’re just wanting to improve the health of existing planting areas, fall is a great time to work on your soil. Natural soil amendments abound for the taking, and the weather is ripe for them to break down and work their magic on the earth. In this season, garden plants need little to no care and many of them are dying back to the ground, leav-ing you both time and space to attend to the soil. Soil health is key to plant health, so the brief effort that goes into the following steps will pay off big time.

Deciduous leaves that come down in the fall make an excellent light-weight mulch that will quickly break down and feed the soil. Shred large leaves before spreading them across the soil to a depth of two or three inches. Small leaves can be placed whole.

Grow a winter cover crop on the bare soil of vege-table or cutting gardens. Cover crops are cool-season annuals that feed the soil when they are mowed or tilled into the ground in early spring.

I f you’re planting a new bed next spring, prepare now by mark-ing it off, observing its conditions (including soil type and drainage) and killing any exist-ing plants and grass by winter smothering.

Compost, or a compost-and-mulch blend, also makes a nutritious topdressing for garden soil. Scratch mature compost into the soil this fall, then replenish your compost pile with the sea-son’s natural debris.

Get a soil test. Send a sample to your coopera-tive extension agency now so that you can be ready to act on its re-sults later this season or first thing in spring. •

by Meghan Shinn

Page 19: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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PLANT PROFILES •

IRIS RETICULATAis a low-growing iris that offers its

purple flowers in late winter. These last well in a vase and possess a

sweet fragrance. Sun to part shade. Zones 5–9.

GLORY-OF-THE-SNOW (Chionodoxa forbesii) sends up clusters of starry blue flowers in late winter. It can naturalize in lawns and woodland gardens. Sun to part shade. Zones 3–8. •

SNOWDROPS (Galanthus nivalis) is one of the earliest bloomers, pushing up through snow cover to open its drooping, green-tipped white flowers. Sun to part shade. Zones 3–7.

Early BulbsNext year’s first blooms

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SNOW CROCUS (Crocus chrysanthus) blooms before

the more popular Dutch hybrid crocuses, with yellow-orange cups

opening to the weak winter sun. Sun to part shade. Zones 3–8.

Page 20: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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CONTAINER GARDENING

SPRING-BLOOMING BULBS are one of the most magical and anticipated treasures of the garden, appearing out of the bare ground to quickly offer color and signal winter’s end. Many of these same bulbs can brighten an indoor space months earlier if they are potted in fall and given the proper treatment. Here’s how to force spring bulbs into a winter bloom indoors.

Bulbs that need a cold period Some bulbs require a period of cold temperatures before they will bloom. These include tulips, hyacinth, grape hyacinth (Muscari spp.), crocus, daffodils and most other spring-blooming bulbs. Of these, tulips and daffodils are the most chal-lenging to force, so if you’re looking for a safe bet, opt for crocus, hyacinths and others.

Forcing the IssueHow to create an early indoor spring with potted bulbs

by Meghan Shinn

1. Select a wide, shallow pot in which to plant the bulbs, and get enough bulbs so that they’ll fill it when planted shoulder to shoulder. Ignore the recommended spac-ing for the bulbs; that applies to long-term plantings in the garden. Pots look best when crowded. Outdoor planting depth also does not apply to pots. The pot need be only deep enough to leave about two inches of root space beneath the bottom of the bulbs.

2. Add enough pre-moistened potting mix so that the tops of the bulbs sit an inch or less below the pot’s rim when they are placed on the mix. Add all of the bulbs and cover them with more potting mix.

Page 21: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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3. Move the entire pot to a cold area where it can stay for the recommended chilling period for the type of bulbs you’re growing. This can be anywhere from 10 to 18 weeks (here’s a helpful guide). The temperature in your chilling area should run 35 to 45˚F, and it should be dark. This may be a cold garage or basement, an unheated but enclosed porch, a crawl space beneath the house or other cold but not freezing area. To simulate darkness in an area like an unheated porch or breezeway, just place a sheet of cardboard over the top of the pot. This will also allow you to stack mul-tiple pots and save space. An extra refrigera-tor can also be used for storing potted bulbs.

4. At the end of the chilling period, place the pot in bright but indirect light at room tem-perature. Water lightly if the soil is dry. Within weeks the bulbs will begin to sprout. Once they have a couple inches of growth, move them into direct light. When they be-gin to bloom, indirect light and cool room temperatures will prolong the display. Dis-card the bulbs after they bloom, as they are unlikely to perform well again.

Bulbs that don’t need a cold period Certain other bulbs do not require chilling before they will bloom. These include some of the most popular bulbs for forcing: amaryllis and paperwhite narcissus. They’re popular because they’re so easy.

Page 22: Great Gardens Fall 2014

1. Paperwhites and amaryllis can be forced in soil. Amaryllis (right) should be buried only to their shoulders, while paperwhites can go a bit deeper.

2. These bulbs will also grow and bloom if simply placed in a container of pebbles and water. Situate the bulbs so that the pebbles support them and their bottoms just barely touch the top of the water in which the pebbles sit. Roots will grow down into the water.

3. Place them in a dark, cool (ideally, 50 to 58˚F) spot for a couple of weeks, then move them into bright light and warmer temperatures, where they will continue to grow and bloom.

4. Paperwhites generally bloom within four weeks of planting, while amaryl-lis can be slow to get going. Expect amaryllis to bloom eight to twelve weeks after planting. •

Page 23: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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Freeze FrameMake outdoor ornaments by freezing

botanical elements in ice

GARDEN ART •

by Meghan Shinn

S T E P S1. Gently rinse the flowers (or other material) and pat it dry. Put the silicone pan on the cookie sheet and fill it halfway with water. (The sheet will make it easy to move the pan without dis-turbing the water and materials.)

2. Carefully float the flowers on the water. Cut a generous length of twine, fold it in half and float the fold on the water. The loose ends of the twine can rest on the tray.

3. Transfer everything to the freezer. Check back every few hours to see if the water has frozen.

4. Once it has, fill the pan the rest of the way with water, leaving a little space at the top. Return it to the freezer.

5. When it has completely frozen solid, pop the ice out of the pan. Tie the loose ends of the twine into a bow or knot and trim any excess length. Hang the ornament outside. •

M A T E R I A L SSilicone baking pan or ice traySmall cookie sheet or other tray-like itemFreshly cut flowers, leaves and/or berries

Heavy-duty twineWater

Page 24: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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SMALL SPACES

Winning WreathsCrown your door with personality

GARDENERS CAN RELY on standing pots, window boxes and hanging baskets to add personality to their homes’ entryways during the warm months, but in many regions late fall means an end to such self-expression. Now winter and holiday decorations take over, chief among them the front-door wreath. Here are a few of our favorite looks for inspiration.

by Meghan Shinn

1. Classic. Wreaths that incorporate lots of natural materials in mostly neutral colors communicate a love of nature. As long as they don’t dry out, such wreaths can look appropriate well past New Year’s.

Page 25: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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2. Modern. Natural wreaths that mix in less common elements offer an updated look. This example adds striking bare twigs and white berries to a eucalyptus base. The bow can be removed for a wintery look after the holidays.

3. Crafty. A simple twig frame provides the base for countless kinds of embellishments. Express yourself by attaching favorite or-naments or pinecones and berries from the garden. These are easy to switch up as spring approaches.

4. Festive. Red and gold colors, a large cir-cumference and an oversize bow make a clear marker of the Christmas season. While this wreath will look out of place soon after January 1, it’s a clear winner through the month of December. •

Page 26: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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KIDS GARDENING

Waterproof Plants

by Meghan Shinn

Kids love watering. Here are houseplants that can take a frequent drink

Page 27: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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WHEN HOUSEPLANTS DIE, it’s usually because of overwatering or underwatering. Drawing from some casual observations of my own children and those of my friends, I’ve decided that the younger the gardener, the more likely he or she is to kill a plant with kindness. I don’t know a child who can walk past a watering can without begging to fill it and use it. My girls—ages 5 and 2—especially love watching water roll down leaves, collect on the soil, soak in and ultimately reappear from the pot’s drainage holes. (All while I imagine the plant saying, “Glub, glub—enough!”)

For most houseplants, it’s best to let the soil dry slightly to the touch before watering again, but there are a few kinds that enjoy perpetually moist condi-tions, and these are great choices for young, enthusi-astic houseplant owners. These include ferns, palms, dumb cane (Dieffenbachia) and even the spider plant (Chlorphytum comosum), though all of these appreciate a winter rest period in which their soil is allowed to dry slightly between waterings.

The best bet for perpetual watering-can wield-ers may be the umbrella plant (Cyperus involucratus or C. alternifolius), which has tall stems topped with grasslike leaves arranged something like an umbrel-la or a helicopter’s blades. This plant likes damp soil and bright light. It’s also easy to propagate by simply snipping off the “propellers” and sitting them in a dish of water until they sprout roots—a nice experi-ment for young indoor gardeners.

Other options include moth orchids (Phalaenop-sis) and even Christmas cactus, provided you keep them potted in a loose, chunky potting mix, such as one based on bark chips. These plants grow on the branches of trees in their native rain forests, glean-

ing moisture as rain showers through them daily. They, too, prefer a winter rest after flow-ering, however. Air plants (Tillandsia) are another good match, provided the kids will trade the water-ing can for a spray bottle. Air plants have inefficient roots and need to be frequently misted so they can draw in moisture through their leaves. Certain kinds of bromeliads form a reservoir in the middle of their leaves, which should be kept full of water.

Finally, certain tricks will help plants dry out quickly and therefore require frequent water-ing, regardless of their type. Use clay pots, which promote quick evaporation. Remember that small pots dry out much more quickly than large pots. Warm air also hastens drying, so set the pot near a heating vent. And if a plant seems too swamped, remove it from the pot and wrap the root ball in newspaper until the excess water has been drawn out, changing the paper as it becomes saturated. •

Above: Umbrella plant. Below: Air plant, which needs frequent misting or

soaking of the leaves but no soil for its roots.

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KITCHEN GARDENING •

Garlic is fairly easy to grow, and a crop can be started in late fall

Garlic is a heart-healthy food because it contains thiosulfinates that help stop arteries from becoming blocked. These thiosulfinates are created as the garlic is chopped, so the finer you chop each clove, the better it is for you. After mincing your garlic, let it sit for a few moments to allow the thiosul-finates to develop.

Garlic Bread

I N G R E D I E N T S1 loaf Italian bread6 Tbsp salted butter, softened½ c. parsely, chopped3 tsp minced garlic (about 6 cloves)

D I R E C T I O N S1. Mix butter, garlic and parsley in a bowl.

2. Cut bread loaf in half lengthwise and set each half crust side down on a baking sheet. Spread the tops evenly and thickly with the butter mixture.

3. Bake at 375˚F for 15 minutes. Cool slighlty, slice and serve.

Garlic

by Maria Woodie

THERE A RE TWO m a i n groups of garlic: softneck and hardneck. The kind offered at most grocery stores is softneck. It’s milder in flavor, produces more cloves and stores longer than hardneck garlic. However, most chefs prefer hardneck, be-cause it has a stronger flavor and easy-to-peel cloves. Soft-neck garlic typically flourishes in warmer climates, while hard-neck thrives in colder regions.

The best time to plant garlic is after the first frost, usually in late fall. Break the bulbs into cloves and plant them 4 to 6 inches apart, in straight rows, with 18 to 24 inches of space be-

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tween rows. The cloves should be planted with the pointed ends facing up. Cover the cloves with roughly two inches of soil. Garlic can grow in most soils but it is more successful in well-drained soil rich in organic mat-ter. Adding mulch is a good way to retain moisture and regulate the temperature of the soil.

Keep your garlic watered, and remove weeds regularly. In spring, start foliar feeding the garlic with a good fertilizer or manure. You should cut the

scapes when they begin to curl towards the leaves—this helps the bulbs grow larger. During midsummer, the leaves will start to discolor, usually turning yel-low or brown, meaning the garlic is almost ready to harvest. Stop watering the plants, then wait until one-third of the plant looks withered or is turning brown before you start digging up the garlic bulbs. Remove excess dirt but be careful not to damage the outer layer of the garlic.

To begin curing the gar-

lic, bundle or braid the plant and hang it in a place where there is good air circulation and minimal sunlight. Curing takes around three to six weeks. Once the garlic is ready, cut the roots and store in a cool, dry place. Softneck types can be stored longer, typically around eight months, while hardnecks are good for six months or less.

For more help with your garlic patch, watch this video showing how to plant and nur-ture garlic. •

Page 30: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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garden design

with color, texture & formrefresh Your

rebecca sweet

harmony with color

One of the easiest and most effective ways to

liberate your garden’s glory is through the cre-

ative use of color. Whether you crave the hot

and spicy shades of orange and red or the cool

and sophisticated tones of blue and purple,

color is one of the most powerful layers of the

garden.

2Chapter

34

35

r e f r e s h yo u r g a r de n de s i g n w i t h c o l o r , t e x t u r e & fo r m

h a r m o n y w i t h c o l o r

It’s hard to enjoy your garden when the temperatures outside are soaring. One

way to counter-balance the oppressive heat is to create an illusion of coolness

and tranquility. In an effort to entice visitors to explore the garden, despite the

summer’s heat, refreshing colors such as dark green, icy blue, deep purple and

white as pure as the fallen snow are used to create a visually cooler environment.

An added illusion is one of cool and shady shadows, as a result of the high

contrast (and movement) between the bright silver and the dark green.

The antique water pump is the perfect garden ornament

for this hot bed, representing cool and refreshing water.

The flowers of the ‘Hawkshead’ Fuchsia resemble falling

raindrops.

The deep purple blooms of the Heliotrope add a pop of

refreshing color to the cool tones of this garden bed.

The name of this euphorbia says it best—‘Glacier

Blue’—and further helps to reduce the visual

temperature.

COOlInG DOwn A HOT GArDen

Design spotlight

52

53

r e f r e s h yo u r g a r de n de s i g n w i t h c o l o r , t e x t u r e & fo r m

h a r m o n y w i t h c o l o r

color echoes:

taking it up

a notch

In addition to the practical problem-solving abilities of

color, it’s also one of the easiest ways to begin adding har-

mony back into your garden. When thoughtfully used, color

acts as a beautiful ribbon, weaving throughout the garden

and tying it all together. This is most often accomplished

through the use of color repetition.

The easiest, and perhaps most obvious, way to repeat

color is to use the same plant, mixed in here and there,

throughout the garden. A more creative way to introduce

color repetition throughout the garden, however, is through

the creation of color echoes. In its simplest form, a color

echo is a combination of colors (bold, subtle or a mix of both)

that have elements of one another contained within each of

them.

One of the easiest ways to begin experimenting with

color echoes is by using a combination of plants with flow-

ers within the same, monochromatic color family. However,

it’s just as easy to create a color echo using many different

colors, freeing you of the strict confines of a monochromatic

scheme. Remember, a color echo uses subtle hints of the

same color, not necessarily using only the same color.

The more you experiment with creating color echoes with

flowers, the more you’ll become aware of that flower’s other

sources of color. For example, while the petals of a flower

may be the first (and most obvious) color to come to mind,

look a little deeper, and you may notice other colors coming

from different parts of the flower, such as the flower’s center,

stamens, seed heads or a petal’s subtle shading. These other,

less obvious, colors are a golden opportunity to begin creat-

ing a little visual magic in your garden.

The yellow stripe of the ‘Pinstripe’ petunia pops when

planted next to the bright foliage of Creeping Jenny

(Lysimachia nummularia ‘Aurea’.

Opposite page, top: Close examination of the

coneflower reveals two colors to consider in a color echo:

pink from the petals and burnt orange from the center.

Bottom: The vibrant red stamens of this cold-hardy

Ginger Lily (Hedychium gardnerianum) offer a unique

color echo opportunity.

54

55

r e f r e s h yo u r g a r de n de s i g n w i t h c o l o r , t e x t u r e & fo r m

h a r m o n y w i t h c o l o r

RAVE REVIEWS FOR REFRESH YOUR GARDEN WITH COLOR, TEXTURE & FORM

Rebecca Sweet’s newest book rocketed into the Top #10 books of the gardening category the same month it was published. Gardeners of every skill level find the book helpful, and we know you will too.

Try even one of her many

great ideas for turning a drab

yard into a dazzling landscape

and you’ll be rewarded with

a newfound confidence to go

further. Rebecca’s engaging voice

comes through with positive

encouragement as she shares

years of experience.

—Debra Prinzing, design writer, author of

10 gardening books, and speaker

Rebecca explains how to see

your tired garden through fresh

eyes, to use black-and-white

photos of it to evaluate tone

and texture, and clever ways to

employ color and contrast. This

is a book of “aha!” moments

and reassurances that Eden can

indeed exist beyond any home’s

windows.

—Debra Lee Baldwin, author

I have already read this book twice!

Each chapter gives me insight into

how to look at my garden like a

landscape designer. Every page

gives me amazing information

with beautiful AND instructional

photographs. Reading the book is

like sitting down with a wonderful

designer like Rebecca and going

over every area of my garden.

—Patrice, DIY gardener

ORDER YOUR COPY TODAY AT GARDENERSHUB.COM

Page 31: Great Gardens Fall 2014

After the leaves have fallen,

we return to a plain sense of things.

—WALLACE STEVENS, AMERICAN POET

(1879–1955)

Page 32: Great Gardens Fall 2014

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