global_beauty_2012

Avocado and shea – the ideal combination for good skin health page 3

Enhanced performance using Lipex® Shea Butters page 6

AAK Beauty and Personal Care Magazine 2012


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As marketing manager at AAK, I think it’s important to understand how our suppliers work – which is why I headed off on an exciting trip to Ghana to meet and interview several of the women who pick the shea kernels out in the savannah.

In September 2011, I visited some of the women who supply us with shea kernels. The goal of my trip was to interview the women to see how we can help make their work easier. This might involve anything from providing them with simple tools to making the delivery chain as short, transparent and efficient as possible. When I landed in the Ghanaian capital of Accra, the heat and humidity hit me straight away and it instantly felt like I’d been standing out in the rain. After 14 hours in a Jeep, heading straight out into the bush from the mangrove swamps and coconut palms of the south to the dry savannah in the north, where the shea trees grow wild, we stopped at our first village. A few clay huts surrounded a communal area where the villagers cooked their food and even made their own shea butter. Each village had around 20 women, but I particularly remember the village led by a woman called Sylvie. It was clear how proud the women were of their work, the village was buzzing with life and they

communicated with me even though they had practically no English. We had a great time together and I was pleased to see how happy they all seemed. There was no obsession with age, no stress or other Western afflictions – a useful lesson to take home with me. I often think about my week in Ghana and how important it is for all of us to take responsi-bility. These people need all the help they can get, but it must be on their terms. It’s no good

helping them with short-term initiatives or by building modern facilities. We have to bear in mind their culture and be sympathetic. With the women able to sell directly to the industry for a higher price than they get via agents and AAK gaining a more transparent and efficient supply chain with excellent traceability, this collaboration is built to last. After all, it’s a win-win situation for everyone!

Rita Leissner

AAK in Africa – a win-win story!

Lipex® Shea TrisSkin nutrient for a healthy young-looking skin!

Active protection against environmental stress conditions and premature aging

Supports skin appearance and moisture for smoothness and viability

Preserves firm and elastic skin textures and skin quality for comfort and beauty

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What do you get if you combine a good source of omega-6 fatty acids with skin healing triterpene esters? And if you include high moisturization and good oxidation stability? And an ingredient which is based on eco-design to en-sure its sustainability? The answer is the latest addition to the Lipid Experts’ product range – Lipex AvoButter.

Our new skin nutrient combines healthy avocado oil with moisturizing shea butter and a dash of palm oil to increase the stability. Avocado oil has a perfectly balanced fatty acid composition for skin health, with enough omega-6 acids to improve skin but without turning rancid. Shea butter contributes with triterpene esters and oleic acid for good moisturization and skin pro-tection. The saturated fatty acids from palm oil and shea butter give both consistency and contribute to moisturization. The balanced fatty acid composition mimics the skin lipids, result-ing in high skin tolerance and good oxidation stability.

Avocado and shea – the ideal combination for good skin health

Avocado and shea – a sustainable combination by eco-designLipex AvoButter is developed using eco-de-sign principles, considering the sourcing and processing of the raw materials, to make a safe and sustainable ingredient. The avocado oil is obtained by cold pressing of avocado fruit pulp, harvested in the state of Michoacán in Mexico. After careful purification, it is mixed with the hard components, shea butter and palm oil, and deodorized at low temperature to preserve the vitamin E and the active lipids. Avocado is an important nutrient, and part of Mexico’s culinary tradition and history. It is today an important contributor to the economy in Michoacán and improves the livelihoods of the farming communities. Shea butter, on the other hand, contributes to economic develop-ment in West Africa, empowering women and improving living conditions. The palm oil used in Lipex AvoButter also contributes to the de-velopment of sustainable palm oil production, through GreenPalm certificates.

Moisturizers and conditioners – bringing nutrients to skin and hairLipex AvoButter is an ideal emollient in body moisturizers due to its semi-solid consistency and flat melting profile. A suitable concentration is 2–3% in creams and lotions, in combination with light esters and other vegetable oils. It can also be formulated into conditioners and masks for hair care, providing moisture, gloss and softness to dry and damaged hair. In this case the use level is 1–2%, together with cetearyl alcohol and surfactants. Formulating with Lipex AvoButter allows you to create smooth and elegant products with skin and hair benefits – and a sustainable future as well.

For more information please contact, Jari Alander, e-mail: [email protected]

Typical ValuesMelting point 47 °C OSI at 110 °C 20 hTriterpenes 3 %Fatty acid compositionPalmitic acid 21 %Stearic acid 11 %Oleic acid 50 %Linoleic acid/Vitamin F 9 %


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Update on Lipex® standards and REACHLipex ingredients – safe and pureStarting from non-GMO vegetable raw materi-als, we make cosmetic ingredients with high purity and documented safety. We have im-plemented several standards – such as ISO 9001 for Quality, ISO 14001 for Environment and ISO 22000 for Food Safety – to ensure that we fulfil our quality and safety ambitions. We use mild refining conditions, preserving desired minor components in the oil while removing contaminants including residual proteins. The absence of contaminants such as heavy met-als, pesticides, PAHs etc. is secured via our HACCP monitoring programme.

REACH – preparing for the next step in 2013AAK is taking the next steps to get the substances in our cosmetic ingredients registered accord-ing to the REACH time schedule, with the next important deadline of 2013 in preparation. INCI nomenclature is not applicable to all substances under REACH, so instead we have adopted the SDA nomenclature to identify the substances constituting our ingredients. The definitions of SDA categories can be found at www.revods.com. For Lipex ingredients, four SDA categories are relevant: SDA 1, 19, 21 and 11. The last category is exempted from

registration (Annex IV). Vegetable oils that are not chemically modified are also exempted (Annex V.9). We also follow the COLIPA recom-mendations for end-use descriptors to cover the intended uses in cosmetic applications.

Please contact your AAK representa-tive for more information on our cer-tificates and statements.

Lipex® PreActThe bioactive emollient for skin protection

Prevent damage from UV-exposure and free radicals

Repair and calm irritated and stressed skin

Soften and moisturize with natural vitamin E and phytosterols

Combine your sunscreens with Lipex PreAct for maximal photo-protection!

For more information please contact, Jørgen Eriksen, e-mail: [email protected]


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Four steps to sustainable cosmetic formulations

1 Protect the user and the environment

First of all, you want your formula-tion to deliver the promises that your brand stands for. This means that you need to use ingredients that deliver a function and cost efficiency. Without ingredient func-tionality, discussing sustainability is rather pointless, isn’t it? Our discussion on sustainability starts instead in another corner: SAFETY. If the ingredients you are using are completely safe for the user and for the environment, you know that you can release your product on the market without hesitation. Human safety, biode-gradability and bioaccumulation are issues to consider.

2 Renewable raw materi-als are the key to the future

The second point is RENEWABIL-ITY. If we base our ingredients on non-renewable raw materials, we know that our resources will sooner or later be depleted. Ag-ricultural and wild-growing crops which are managed responsibly, are good solutions for renewable ingredients.

3 Raw materials from responsible agriculture and wild crops

RAW MATERIALS originating in responsibly managed agriculture or harvested from wild-growing crops, are a starting point for sustainable ingredients. Param-eters such as land use, appli-cation of fertilizers, pesticides and the need for irrigation are important for farmed crops. For wild-growing crops, raw material collection needs to consider the effects on biodiversity and the social and economic develop-ment of the communities that are dependent on these crops and their conservation.

4 Energy-efficient processing and non-polluting processing aids

Finally, the MANUFACTURING processes used to go from raw materials to ingredients are im-portant. Using processes and methods that use less energy and utilize the raw materials efficiently are ideal from a sus-tainability point of view. Using catalysts and processing aids, based on environmentally friendly principles, are also a possibility to increase the sustainability score for your formulation.

Renewability Raw materials ProcessesSafety

New tool to guide your selection of Lipex ingredientsLipex ingredients show a good balance of functionality and sustainability. To make it easier to select sustainable solutions, we have created a sustainability score for all of our ingredients, based on a systematic and transparent grading that uses these four criteria. With this system it is now easy to select ingredients that will lead you on the path to more sustainable cosmetic formulations, contributing to a more beautiful world in all senses!

It’s really quite simple. You can’t do it all in one step but you can always improve your formulation towards a more sustainable one. Here we tell you how, in four easy steps.

Sustainability gradingsCompletely safe to users and the environment.

>80 % biobased ingredient, full renewability.

Responsibly sourced from agricultural or wild crops.

Eco-efficient processes with low energy and low resource requirement.

Minor safety concerns have been identified.

60–80 % biobased, partial renewability.

Raw materials obtained from conventional agriculture.

Conventional manufacturing processes.

Safety assessment is incomplete.

40–59 % biobased, low renewability.

Raw materials are not traceable to original source.

Complex and non-traceable process chain.

Major safety concerns have been identified.

<40% biobased, very low renewability.

Raw materials are not from sustainable sources.

High-energy processes and/or low raw material utilization.



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Shea butter has become one of the most popular natural ingredients in beauty and personal care formulations. It is well known amongst the consumers and it brings functional benefits to the formulation, especially if used at appropriate concentrations. One frequently asked question is: how much shea butter do I need in the formulation to get the benefits? Here is our answer!

Select the correct shea butter for your applicationLipex Shea Butters are all designed to meet the formulation challenges in beauty and personal care products, enabling the use of shea butter at functional levels in all types of formulations. Their stability helps to reduce the sensitivity of the formulation during storage and handling. This will ensure that the formulation will have minimal texture and appearance changes during the shelf life of the product.

Enhanced performance using Lipex® Shea Butters

Placebo cream

Lipex Sheasoft cream

25% increase in epidermal thickness vs placebo

Placebo cream Lipex Shea Tris cream

Lipex Shea Tris increases skin barrier thickness

Lipex Sheasoft rapidly restores skin barrier properties

Lipex Shea butters have excellent quality and stability

Isohexadecane

Lipex Sheasoft

Isohexadecane

Lipex Sheasoft

1 hour

100

80

60

40

20

0

2 hours

Moisturization from shea butter triglyceridesThe moisturizing properties of Lipex Sheasoft were recently investigated against a hydrocar-bon reference, using TEWL and corneometer measurements after a mild challenge with ethanol washing on the skin. Lipex Sheasoft gave a faster restoration of the TEWL and gave 17% higher moisture level in the skin after 2 hours compared to the reference. The applied amount of emollient in this study can be translated to a formulation use level of 2–4%, depending on the type of formulation. The lower level requires 3–4 applications per day to reach the required level and is suited for lighter lotion type of formulations. The higher concentration is ideal for formulating heavier, more protec-tive and repairing creams and body butters, requiring 1–2 applications per day. (See figure below).

Skin repair and enhancement by shea butter triterpene estersShea butter has, for a long time, been associated with skin repairing properties. Recent studies have shown that this effect is linked to triterpene esters found in shea. Lipex Shea Tris, the third generation of active shea ingredients from AAK, has a triterpene ester content of 60–65%. The triterpene esters increase the epidermal thickness, preserve the collagen content in the dermis and reduce the effects of environmental stress. The use level of Lipex Shea Tris in formulations can be as low as 0.3–0.5%, making it possible to achieve the benefits of shea butter with very light lotions and serums. In heavier formulations the effect can be achieved using 4–10% of ingredients such as Lipex 205, the liquid shea butter or our standard Lipex Shea.

With the Lipex Shea Butters in your toolbox, there are no limitations to what you can achieve in your formulations. Now you just have to add the vital ingredient – Creativity!

For more information please contact, Tina Liljegren, e-mail: [email protected]

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How do you get the consumer’s atten-tion and loyalty to your product? We know that the sensory properties of your formulation are the key to suc-cess, and products that smell good and have attractive tactile properties are preferred by the user. The selection of emollient is crucial, and knowing how to combine emollients with different properties is essential for the modern formulator. Let us explain how different qualities of shea butter can help you to create tomorrow’s success!

The sensory profile of an emollient is related to its physicochemical properties, such as po-larity and melting profile. Different emollients contribute to skin feel, due to differences in spreadability, viscosity and lubricity. Qualified formulators always take advantage of every ingredient in the formulation, and emollients are combined to meet the sensory target of each product category.

Functional Shea ButtersShea butter from the African savannah has much more to commend it than just its natural goodness. The Lipex shea butters are specifi-cally developed for the beauty and personal care industry to offer the formulator a choice

of highly functional ingredients. By care-ful product development over the

years, AAK has increased the functionality of shea butter to previously unknown heights. Here is a selection of our most popular ingredients: Lipex Shea WM is a fluid shea butter wax with dry skin feel. Compared to other es-ters it displays low viscosity with less residue and a light skin feel, ideal for facial care

formulations. The low spreadability makes it unique, enabling eye-care creams that pre-vent migration into the eyes and preventing bleeding-out for lipsticks. Lipex Shea has better crystallization behaviour compared to traditional shea butter and offers a rich skin feel related to its softness. The rapid stabilization increases smoothness and shelf life in all applications. The velvety skin feel is correlated to its short playtime, low residue and lubricity on the skin. It is ideal for all kinds of rich formulations such as body butters with high emolliency and low slip. Lipex Sheasoft is a highly moisturizing shea butter that gives a rich skin feel as well as a long playtime on application, strengthening the consumer’s perception of an even more caring and luxurious product. A body cream with only a short-lived effect is like ‘cappuccino without milk’. The melting profile is related to its unique composition which influences the lubricity and creamy consistency. The enhanced moisturization properties also result in an el-egant sensuous appeal. Many formulators globally have already ex-plored the sensual adventure that the Lipex shea butters offer! You can also use the Lipex shea butters to make a sensuous formula for your next sales success.

Sensuous formulations with shea butter

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20

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100Solidity

Lubricity

Residue / LongPlay timeLight skin feel

Spreadability Lipex Shea

Lipex Sheasoft

Lipex WM

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20

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100Solidity

Lubricity

Residue / LongPlay timeLight skin feel

Spreadability Lipex Shea

Lipex Sheasoft

Lipex WM

Lipex Shea butter impact on different skin feel

AAK Beauty and Personal Care Magazine 2012 published by AarhusKarlshamn Sweden AB, SE-374 82 Karlshamn, Sweden. www.aak.com

Editors: Jari Alander, Ann-Charlotte Andersson, Jørgen Eriksen, Rita Leissner, Tina Liljegren, Karina Pettersson.

Contact: Rita Leissner, e-mail: [email protected], phone: +46 454 824 25, fax: +46 454 828 85

Production: www.johnjohns.se. Photo: Thomas Tjäder. Matton.


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The AAK ACADEMY is exclusively for our cus-tomers. The idea behind this advanced train-ing concept is basically very simple. A good understanding of lipid technology will help to guide you in your search for the best solution for a given formula. It will also facilitate the dialogue between customer and supplier and help us to create a better job together. The AAK ACADEMY offers wide range of courses. The format is highly flexible, with tui-tion by experts from staff at AAK.

The Academy is free for all AAK customers. If you would like to participate or know more about the programme, contact your AAK partner.

More information available at www.aak.com

The AAK ACADEMY™ – the knowledge centre for lipid technology

Next AAK ACADEMY for Beauty and Personal Care, 18-19 September 2012 in Karlshamn, Sweden.

Find out all the news about Lipex – everything from new Lipex ingredients to ideas for creative new formulations or the very latest on sustainability.

lipexaak.com – keep up to date with just one click!

Lipex® is launching a new website!

“After Insect Bite Stick”The natural solution to skin irritationDid you know that shea butter triterpenes reduce skin irritation from insect bites? In a consumer panel, testing a stick formula-tion with 0.5% Lipex Shea Tris, 67% of the panelists reported reduced swelling, redness and itching from mosquito and other insect bites. Suitable formulation types for active outdoors life with Lipex Shea Tris include gels and sprayable emulsions as well as sticks and balms.

Sleep all night

with After Insect Bite

global_beauty_2012

Documents

shea kernels

skin appearance

skin quality

shea trees

good skin health page

new skin nutrient

healthy younglooking

moisturizing shea butter