givaudan - impag.ch · anti-aging cosmos approved potentially natrue china approved product inci...
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A N T I - A G I N G
COSMOS approved potentially NaTrue China approved
Product INCI in-vitro / ex-vivo in-vivo Preserv-atives
Use level Solubility Features
BLURHD CQ U/A ()
Dipropylene Glycol (and) Gardenia Florida Fruit Extract
Oxygen Radical Absorbance Capacity (ORAC), Stimulation of BCL2-gene ex-pression limiting apoptosis, Stimulation of Ceramide synthesis (ex-vivo)
Anti-wrinkle effect on crow’s feet (4 %, D28), Smoothing of cutaneous relief and anti-wrinkle effect (2 %, D56)
None 0.1 - 4 %
Hydrosoluble Reduces crow’s feet wrinkles, Stimulates the ceramide synthesis, Smoothes the skin
COSTALANE()
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Skeletonema Costatum Extract
Increase of GAP junction number, Promotes epidermal differentiation by increase of connexin 43 level
None 0.1 - 0.3 %
Liposoluble Poly-unsaturated fatty acid rich in omega-3, Restoration of skin homeostasis
EASYLIANCE()China approved version available (Easyliance 2.0)
Acacia Senegal Gum (and) Hydrolyzed Rhizobian Gum
Immediate wrinkle reduction (3 %, 5min)
None 2 - 3 % Hydrosoluble Smoothing, Improvement of micro- relief, Immediate anti-wrinkle
ELLAGI-C()
Propanediol (and) Anogeissus Leiocarpa Bark Extract
Stimulation of vitamin C incorporation, Anti-MMPs properties, Antioxidant activity
Decrease of wrinkle depth (2 %, D14)
None 1 - 2 % Hydrosoluble Anti-aging, Anti-wrinkle
HYDREIS()
Aqua (and) Hydrolyzed Beta-Glucan (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Citric Acid
Stimulation of the synthesis of filaggrin, Stimulation of the synthesis of aquaporin, Restoration of the skin‘s structure and water homeostasis (ex-vivo), Restoration of the skin‘s structure with filaggrin (ex-vivo), Restoration of hydric homeostasis with AQP-3 (ex-vivo)
Reparative effect on the barrier function (1 %, D3)
Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate
1 % Hydrosoluble 3- in-1 active for skin rehydration, restructure and repair
HYALUSPHERE PF ()
Spherulites®
Aqua (and) Sucrose Palmitate (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Citric Acid
Penetration test by Raman micro-imaging (ex-vivo), Visualisation of the incorporation of Hyalusphere in emulsions
Decrease of average wrinkle number (3 %, 1h, 6h)
Phenox-yethanol, Potassium sorbate
2 - 3 % Water dispersible
Vectorized (Spherulites technology) hyaluronic acid to recover skin‘s volume and reduce wrinkles in a very short term
HYALUSPHERE XP ()
Spherulites®
Aqua (and) Sucrose Palmitate (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Citric Acid
Penetration test by Raman micro-imaging (ex-vivo), Visualisation of the incorporation of Hyalusphere in emulsions
Decrease of average wrinkle number (3 %, 1h, 6h)
Benzyl alcohol, potassium sorbate
2 - 3 % Water dispersible
Vectorized (Spherulites technology) hyaluronic acid to recover skin‘s volume and reduce wrinkles in a very short term
MEGASSANE()
Caprylic/Capric Trigliceride (and) Phaeodactylum Tricornutum (and) Tocopherol
Repairing and protection of proteins from UV damage, revitalization, Detoxification (Lit), Anti-age spots (Lit), DNA repair (Lit)
None 0.1 - 0.3 %
Liposoluble Phytoplancton extract rich in omega-3, Cell protection from UV, Prevention from photo-aging and age-spots
REDENS‘IN()
Spherulites®
Sucrose Palmitate (and) Aqua (and) Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Tocopherol (and) Citric Acid (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Potassium Sorbate
Skin is subject to ECM and adipose tissue age-related alterations (2 %)
Phenoxyeth-anol
1.5 - 2 %
Water dispersible
A dermis and hypodermis voluminizing ingredient and high molecular weight hyaluronic acid encapsulated in Spherulites, Plumping, Anti-wrinkle
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A N T I - A G I N G
Product INCI in-vitro / ex-vivo in-vivo Preserv-atives
Use level Solubility Features
REVIVYL(Cosmos certification on-going)
Propanediol (and) Orobanche Rapum Extract
Maintaining of the capability of skin stem cells to replicate themselves, Increase of expression of survivin after UV exposure, Inhibition of caspase 9 and caspase 3, Stimulation of epidermis metabolism (ex-vivo), Stimulation of keratinocytes differentiation and barrier function, Improvement of epidermal differentiation and barrier function (ex-vivo), Stimulation of the skin barrier components production (ex-vivo), Biological reactivation of natural exfoliation (ex-vivo)
Skin barrier reinforcement and hydration (Raman), (0.5 %, D14, D28), Skin epidermis restructuration (OCT), (0.5 %, D14, D28), Increase of skin surface renewal, exfoliation (Diagnoskin), (0.5 %, D7, D28), Maintenance of the stratum microbium (0.5 %, D14), Anti-aging effect (crow’s feet wrinkles), (0.5 %, D28)
None 01 - 0.5 %
Hydrosoluble Holistic skin renewal accelerator
SOFTALIA CQ U/A
Fusanus Spicatus Kernel Oil Improvement of skin condition on face (reduction in lines, More moist/supple, Reduction in flakiness), Neck (Skin tightness, Reduction in wrinkles/lines, More moist/supple) and hands (much tighter, more moist/supple) (5 %) (Panelist‘s evaluation), Enhancement of sensorial benefits of cream formulation (2 %)
None 0.5 - 5 %
Liposoluble Sustainable Australian sandalwood nut oil, Firm and supple skin, Reduction of fine wrinkles
SPRING SEA WATER()
Maris Aqua (and) Phenoxyethanol
Stimulation of skin lipid synthesis, Dermo epidermal junction reinforcement, Skin moisturisation compared to classic water (ex-vivo)
Phenoxy-ethanol
20 - 100 %
Hydrosoluble Spring sea water enriched in trace elements talcing a unique composition
STIMULHYAL()
Calcium Ketogluconate Elastin synthesis, hyaluronic acid synthesis, increase of hyaluronic acid synthesis (ex-vivo), Interaction with CD 44 (in silico test), Increase in CD 44 by immunolabelling (ex-vivo)
Skin elasticity (0.5 %), Anti-skin fatigue (0.5 %)
None 0.3 - 0.5 %
Hydrosoluble Anti-aging effect by increasing natural production of hyaluronic acid
VITASPHERES E XP()
Aqua (and) Sucrose Palmitate (and) Tocopheryl Acetate (and) Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Citric Acid
Potassium Sorbate ,Citric acid
5 - 15 % Hydrosoluble Vitamin E encapsulated in Spherulites for improved penetration
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B O D Y S C U L P T I N G
C O O L I N G / O T H E R S
COSMOS approved potentially NaTrue China approved
Product INCI in-vitro / ex-vivo in-vivo Preserv-atives
Use level Solubility Features
ABDOLIANCE Sucrose Palmitate (and) Poly-sorbate 20 (and) Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Paullinia Cupana Seed Extract (and) Maltodextrin (and) Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis (Sweet Almond) Oil (and) Lecithin (and) Aqua (and) Citrus Aurantium Amara (Bitter Orange) Peel Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Tocopherol
Waist size reduction (2 %, D28), Reduction of hypodermis thickness (3 %, D28)
Phenoxy-ethanol
1 - 3 % Water dispersible
Waist slimming for men
ACTISCULPT CQ U/A ()
Dipropylene Glycol (and) Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract (and) Coleus Forskohlii Root Extract
Increase of cAMP level in adipocytes
Thigh reduction and skin surface smoothing (1 %, D28, D56)
None 1 % Liposoluble Herbal firming
AXOLIGHT()
Aqua (and) Triticum Aestivum Extract Inhibition of melanogenesis, Inhibition of melanogenesis via TRP-1 (ex-vivo)
Lightening efficacy on Asian volunteers (3 %, D56)
None 2 - 3 % Liposoluble Whitening, Lightening
BETAPHROLINE()
Aqua (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol
Stimulation of beta endorphin release, Adenylate cyclase activation, G3PDH inhibition, Glycerol release
Pain release and improvement in the well-being of stomatodynia patients (oral application) (10 %, D30; Panelist’s evaluation)
Phenoxy-ethanol
2 - 8 % Hydrosoluble A „well-being“ provider by means of neurocosmetic and body shaping
COMMIPHERO-LINE()
Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (and) Commiphora Mukul Resin Extract
G3PDH activation (effects on lipogenesis), cAMP inhibition (effects on lipolysis), Increase of triglyceride quantity in adipocytes
None Anti-aging: 0.2 - 0.6 % Bodycare: 0.5 - 1 %
Liposoluble Skin tonifier, Wrinkle filler, Breast and décolleté care
PRO-DG Aqua (and) Plankton Extract (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Citric Acid
Inhibition of triglycerides synthesis, Stimulation of cAMP rate, Stimulation of lipolyse (in-vitro & ex-vivo) Reduction of the adipocytesdiameter (ex-vivo)
Reduction of thighs size (3 %) Sodium benzoate, Potassium sorbate
3 % Hydrosoluble Marine origin slimming to reduce the tigh-size
Product INCI in-vitro / ex-vivo in-vivo Preserv-atives
Use level Solubility Features
DIAMOND()
Diamond Powder Improvement of skin regeneration, stimu-lation of immuno reactions (Lit)
None 0.5 - 2 %
Oil dispersible Stimulates cutaneous microcircu-lation, Improves skin complexion, Energyzing, Granulometry: < 15μ
EVERCOOL SKIN Menthyl PCA (and) Lactamide MEA (and) Menthane Carboxamide Ethylpyridine
Activation of cooling sensation receptor TRMP
Long lasting cooling effect (2 %, 30min, 60min, 120min)
None 1 - 4 % Water and Alcohol soluble
Patented combination of cooling actives, Improved long-lasting freshness, Odourless cooling agent
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H A I R A N D B O D Y C A R E
Product INCI in-vitro / ex-vivo in-vivo Preserv-atives
Use level Solubility Features
CERAMIDE II CQ U/A ()
Ceramide NG Deposition onto hair (ex-vivo), Evaluation of hair softness (ex-vivo), Hair strengthening effect (ex-vivo, 1 %)
Reduction of TEWL (2 %, D26)
None 0.05 - 1 %
Liposoluble Skin moisturizer, Lipid barrier rebuilder, Hair strengthener & conditioner
GLOSSYLIANCE()
Aqua (and) Lactic Acid (and) Citrus Limon Peel Extract (and) Saccharum Officinarum Extract (and) Malic Acid (and) Citric Acid
Increased shine (ex-vivo), Increased softness (ex-vivo)
Increased shine(1 / 3 / 5 %), Increased softness (1 / 3 / 5 %, D14)
None 3 % Hydrosoluble Increases hair shine, Visible effect of softness of the hair
HAIRSPHERE AG XP ()
Spherulites®
Aqua (and) Polyglyceryl-3 Distearate (and) Polysorbate 60 (and) Myristic Acid (and) Stearic Acid (and) Palmitic Acid (and) Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride (and) Triticum Vulgare Flour Lipids (and) Persea Gratissima Oil (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Citric Acid
Benzyl alcohol, Potassium sorbate
0.05 - 3 %
Water dispersible
Vectorized (Spherulites technology) fatty acids, avocado oil and ceramids; an ideal mixture of active ingredients for hair nourishment
Product INCI in-vitro / ex-vivo in-vivo Preserv-atives
Use level Solubility Features
QUESTICE LIQUID CQ U/A ()
Menthyl PCA Underarm cooling panel test with deodorant spray (1.7 %), Long-lasting effect of Questice vs. Menthol with no burning sensation (1 %), Synergistic effect of Questice Plus with increased initial ‘cooling burst’ (1.2 % Questice® Plus (1 % Questice®)
None 1 - 1.5 %
Water and Alcohol soluble
Long-lasting perception of cooling and additional moisturizing effect
QUESTICE PLUS CQ U/A()
Menthyl PCA (and) Menthol (and) Dipropylene Glycol
Underarm cooling panel test with deodorant spray (1.7 %), Long-lasting effect of Questice® vs. Menthol with no burning sensation (1 %), Synergistic effect of Questice® Plus with increased initial ‘cooling burst’ (1.2 % Questice® Plus (1 % Questice®)
None 1 - 2 % Water and Alcohol soluble
Immediate and long-lasting perception of cooling composed of 1 % Questice Liquid + 0.2 % free Menthol
SOLIGEL()
Rhizobian Gum Immediate reduction of dark rings (2 %), Improvement of sensorial properties of the formula (0.25 %) alone or with salt, Flash moisturizing effect (2 %)
None 0.1 - 2 %
Hydrosoluble Anti-dark circle under the eyes, Anti-redness, Rheology modifier, Improves sensory characteristics of cosmetic formulations
XYLIANCE()
Cetearyl Wheat Straw Glycosides (and) Cetearyl Alcohol
None 2 - 5 % Liposoluble Patented and natural emulsifier for white and unctuous emulsion, High emulsifying capacity for virgin oils and silicons without co-emulsifier, good compatibility with sun care ingredients
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H A I R A N D B O D Y C A R E
Product INCI in-vitro / ex-vivo in-vivo Preserv-atives
Use level Solubility Features
RESISTHYAL()
Water (and) Sodium Hyaluronate (and) Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Lactic Acid
Sheathing effect around hair fibre (ex-vivo), Biological hydration of hair fibre (ex-vivo), Resistance to mechanical and thermal stresses (ex-vivo), Resistance to dullness, increased shininess (ex-vivo), Resistance to frizzing, hair straightening enhancement (ex-vivo), Resistance to pollution, anti-adhesion properties (ex-vivo)
Global hair beauty enhancement in a rinse- off formulation (3 %, D14, D28), “Increased perception of the hair beauty parameters” (shininess, lightness, easiness to comb, natural volume, resistance, revitalise, increased body and matter, smoothesness, softness, suppleness) (1.5 % & 3 %, D28) (panelist’s evaluation), Anti-frizz and resistance to humidity (3%, single use), Beauty enhancement in a rinse-off formulation (1.5 %, 3 %, D28)
Phenoxyeth-anol
1.5 - 3% Hydrosoluble Hair beauty enhancer
SINODOR CQ U/A()
Citronellyl Methylcrotonate Reduction of body all types of body malodours, Reduction of fatty acid malodours of formula bases (1 %), Reduction of odor emitted by permanent waves (ex-vivo, 0.5 %), Reduction of smoke odour on hair (ex-vivo, 0.5 %)
None 0.2 - 1 %
Liposoluble Odour control
SOFTOLIVE()
Hydrogenated Ethylhexyl Olivate (and) Hydrogenated Olive Oil Unsaponifiables
None 2 - 10 % Liposoluble Very dry olive-based emollient, Excellent penetration and skin feel for skin, Sun and hair care
UNIBLEND 2 CQ U/A()
Aqua (and) PEG 7 Glyceryl Cocoate (and) PEG 60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (and) Ceramide NG (and) Methylchloroisothi-azolinone (and) Methylisothiazolinone
Gluconolac-tone, Sodium benzoate
0.5 - 10 %
Water dispersible
Dispersion of 2 % CERAMIDE II CQ U/A for easier incorporation into formulas, Especially rinse-off, Hair strengthener & conditioner
YOGURTENE BALANCE CQ (PFR) U/A()
Inulin (and) Yogurt Powder Strong reduction of S. aureus and E. coli species present on the skin
None 0.5 -5 %
Prebiotic efficacy, Promotes to balance skin flora by anti-bacterial effect, Skin moisturizing
YOGURTENE CQ (PFR) U/A()
Yogurt Powder Stimulation of collagen latice concentration
Improves quality of dry hair, combability of wet hair and defines curles (0.2 % in combing cream), hair style holding and anti-fly-away (1 %), Perceivable improvement of soap foam density and creaminess (0.5 %)
None 0.5 - 5 %
Hydrosoluble Skin firming properties, Hair conditioner, Lather booster
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H Y A L U R O N I C A C I D
COSMOS approved potentially NaTrue China approved
Product INCI in-vitro / ex-vivo in-vivo Preserv-atives
Use level Solubility Features
CRISTALHYAL()
Sodium Hyaluronate Skin moisturisation (Raman Spectroscopy) (ex-vivo), Prevention and calming of inflammation, Protection against UVB
Long-lasting moisturization up to 24 hours (0.1 %, 8h, 24h)
None 0.01 - 0.3 %
Hydrosoluble Moisturization by film forming and water retention, Eye contour care; MW 1-1.4 MDa
PRIMALHYAL 300()
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Increase of beta-defensine release, especially DEFB2 (in-vitro, ex-vivo), Stimulation of DEFB4 gene expression, Inhibition of gram negative bacteria activity (ex-vivo), Stimulation of keratinocytes migration and fibroblasts prolieferation (support of wound healing), Migration and proliferation of the fibroblasts, Penetration in the skin (ex-vivo)
None 0.05 - 0.2 %
Hydrosoluble Hyaluronic acid with mid-range MW 100-300 kDa, Stimulation of the skin natural defense system
PRIMALHYAL 3K()
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Stimulation of tight junction protein synthesis, Stimulation of DEFB2 release (in-vitro & ex-vivo), Antimicrobial activity, Specific healing activity, Stimulation of procollagen I, Improvement of HA synthesis
Improvement of skin biomechanical properties (0.5 % 20-50kDa HA)
None 0.1 - 1 %
Hydrosoluble PrimalHyal 3K is a mix of 3 Hyaluronic Acids (HA): • PrimalHyal 300 (100-300 kDa) to
reinforce the skin natural defense and wound healing process
• PrimalHyal 50 (20-50 kDa) to improve skin biomechanical properties and firmness
• PrimalHyal 20 (5-20 kDa) to rejuvenate the dermis from inside
PRIMALHYAL 50()
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
Stimulation of tight junction protein synthesis, Stimulation of procollagen I
Moisturization effect (0.5 %), Skin is more moisturized, skin is more tonic, skin is firmer (0.5 %; Panelist‘s evaluation)
None 0.1 - 0.5 %
Hydrosoluble Hyaluronic acid with very low MW (20-50 kDa), Reduction of TEWL (patent), Collagen-boosting effect, Skin hydro-retention, Improves skin tonicity
PRIMALHYAL GOLD()
PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (and) Water (and) Octyldodeceth-25 (and) Sodium Hyaluronate
Skin penetration (ex-vivo), Instant and long lasting hydration benefits (ex-vivo; total water content T+30min vs T+8h +13 %; +45 % vs T0; free water content T+30min vs T+8h +14 %; +50 % vs T0)
Phenoxyeth-anol, De-cylene glycol, Propylene glycol
4 - 5 % Liposoluble Oilsoluble hyaluronic acid for longterm hydration, make-up care, lip products
RENOVHYAL()
Sodium Hyaluronate Stimulation of tight junction protein synthesis, Stimulation of procollagen I
Moisturization effect (0.5 %), Skin is more moisturized, Skin is more tonic, Skin is firmer (0.5 %; Panelist‘s evaluation)
None 0.1 - 0.5 %
Hydrosoluble Hyaluronic acid with very low MW (20-50 kDa), Reduction of TEWL (patent), Collagen-boosting effect, Skin hydro-retention, Improves skin tonicity
H Y A L U R O N I C A C I D
2‘200
2‘000
1‘800
1‘000
700
500
300
100
1‘400
50
20
5Very low
Low
Average
Very high
High
Cutaneous permeability of HA
Molecular weight kDa Powder form Coupling
PrimalHyal 10<10 kDa
PrimalHyal 20 5 - 20 kDa
PrimalHyal 50 Renovhyal20 - 50 kDa
PrimalHyal 300 Bashyal Powder
100 - 300 kDa
Cristalhyal 1.0PrimalHyal 1000 700 - 1000 kDa
Cristalhyal 1 - 1.4 MDa
Hyalusphere XP & PF
Cristalhyal MW+1.4 - 2 MDa
Cristalhyal 2.21.8 - 2.2 MDa
Hydrolyzed Hyaluronic Acid
> PRIMALHYAL range INCI: Hydrolyzed Hyaluro-
nic Acid
> BASHYAL Powder,RENOVHYAL
INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate
Native Hyaluronic Acid> CRISTALHYAL range INCI: Sodium Hyaluronate
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S K I N C O M P L E X I O N
COSMOS approved potentially NaTrue China approved
Product INCI in-vitro / ex-vivo in-vivo Preserv-atives
Use level Solubility Features
HYDRINTENSE()
Maris Aqua (and) Propanediol (and) Porphyridium Cruentum Extract
Increase of skin‘s water content (ex-vivo)
Increase of skin‘s water content upto 24hrs (5 %, 24h), Improvement of the skin microrelief (5 %, D7)
None 3 - 5 % Hydrosoluble Moisture power and improvement of skin microrelief
PORPHYRALINE SP()
Porphyridium Cruentum Extract Increase of epidermal lipid, improvement of the anchoring capacity of basal membrane, increase of beta-1-integrin and alpha-6-integrin
None 3 - 5 % Hydrosoluble Reinforcement of skin‘s self-defense, Film forming effect
LIPSPHERE G PF()
Spherulites®
Glycerin (and) Sucrose Tristearate (and) Aqua (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Citric Acid
Potassium sorbate, Sodium benzoate, Citric acid
1 - 10 % Liposoluble Vectorized (Spherulites etchnology) glycerine in a lipophilic structure which transformes its affinity with the preparation medium. Lipsphere G PF improves the texture of bases and gives effective moisturizing properties to end products
Product INCI in-vitro / ex-vivo in-vivo Preserv-atives
Use level Solubility Features
AXOLIGHT()
Aqua (and) Triticum Aestivum Extract Inhibition of melanogenesis, Inhibition of melanogenesis via TRP-1 (ex-vivo)
Lightening efficacy on Asian volunteers (3 %)
None 2 - 3 % Hydrosoluble Whitening, Lightening
SOPHOLIANCE S()
Candida Bombicola/ Glucose / Methyl Rapesee-date Ferment (and) Aqua (and) Potassium Sorbate
Anti-bactericidal activity Regulation of sebum production (2 %), Acne prevention (2 %)
Potassium sorbate
1 - 2 % Hydrosoluble Anti-acne, Anti-lipase, Protection of skin‘s self-defense, Anti-bacterial
VEGETAN()
Dihydroxyacetone Self tanning (5 %) None 1 - 5 % Hydrosoluble Self tanning, Sun care
VEGETAN FL()
Dihydroxyacetone (and) Aqua Self tanning (5 %) None 1 - 8 % Hydrosoluble Self tanning, Sun care
VEGETAN FL CREATION
Dihydroxyacetone (and) Aqua (and) Parfum (and) Polysorabate 20 (and) Caprylyl/ Capryl Wheat Bran/Straw Glycosides
Self tanning (5 % ), Minimization of odour caused by DHA‘s reaction with skin (11 %)
None 2 - 15 % Hydrosoluble Creative solution of DHA with a specific perfume to soften the odour during self tanning
VEGETAN GOLD PEG-8 Caprylic/Capric Glycerides (and) Water (and) Dihydroxyacetone (and) Octyldodeceth 25
Self tanning (30 %, 60 %)
None 30 - 60 % Lipo- and hydrosoluble
DHA for oily formulations for natural looking tan with long-lasting effect
VEGETAN PREMIUM
Dihydroxyacetone (and) Melanin Antioxidant effect Improvement of color intensity and increase of speed of coloration (5 %), Tanning quality (5 %)
None 1 - 5 % Hydrosoluble Self tanning for faster and more intense effect with improved quality
M O I S T U R I Z I N GH Y A L U R O N I C A C I D
9
S K I N P R O T E C T I O N
Product INCI in-vitro / ex-vivo in-vivo Preserv-atives
Use level Solubility Features
DEPOLLUTINE()
Aqua (and) Arginine PCA (and) Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol
Reduction of microinflammation by targeting ICAM-1 (ex-vivo) Prevention from cigarette smoke damage (reduction of leukocyte adhesion)
Phenoxyeth-anol
1 - 3 % Hydrosoluble Limitation of pollution induced damage on skin
GREVILLINE PF()
Glycerin (and) Aqua (and) Skeletonema Costatum Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol
Inhibition of IL-8 release and PLA2 activity
Reduction of UV-induced erythema (3 %, D3)
Phenoxyeth-anol
1 - 3 % Hydrosoluble Peptidic fraction of a phytoplankton, Anti-inflammatory, Anti-redness
KENDI OIL()
Aleurites Moluccanus Seed Oil Subjective sensory assessment in comparison with Argan oil
None up to 100 %
Liposoluble Natural oil rich in omega-3 fatty acids, Rich in natural tocopherol and less sensitive to oxidation, Dry oil with good sensoric properties
Product INCI in-vitro / ex-vivo in-vivo Preserv-atives
Use level Solubility Features
VEGETAN PREMIUM PLUS()
Dihydroxyacetone (and) Melanin Antioxidant activity Kinetics of skin coloration (5 %, 3h, 6h, 8h)
None 3 - 5 % (self-tanning products) 1 - 2% (Glowing products)
Hydrosoluble Self-tanning, Combination of DHA/Allomelanin like polymer (from caffeic acid polymerisation) for a natural tan, a quick and intense coloration and anti-oxidant activity
WAKAMINE XP()
Aqua (and) Undaria Pinnatifida Extract (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Potassium Sorbate
Reduction of skin color, Inhibition of melanin production (ex-vivo)
Comparable lightening effect as 2 % Arbutin (1 % Wakamin XP + 1 % Arbutin)
Benzyl alcohol, Potassium sobrate
1 - 3 % Hydrosoluble Whitening, Lightening
WHITESPHERE PREMIUM()
Spherulites®
Sucrose Palmitate (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (and) Aqua (and) Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract (and) Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (and) Undaria Pinnatifida Extract (and) Phenoxyethanol
Inhibition of melanin production of Galabridin (Lit.), Inhibiton of melanin production by Undaria Pinnatifida extract (ex-vivo), Anti-oxidative capacity of ascorbic acid (Lit.), Anti-inflammatory activity of Galabridin (Lit.), Reduction of melanin production (ex-vivo)
Age spot reduction 1 %), Cutaneous aspect is improved, aspects of the age spots are improved, I would buy such a cosmetic product (1 %; Panelist‘s evaluation)
Phenoxyeth-anol
0.5 - 1 % Water dispersible
Synergistic complex of whitening actives encapsulated in Spherulites for improved penetration of the well known whitening actives, Specific treatment against age spots
WHITESPHERE PREMIUM XP()
Spherulites®
Sucrose Palmitate (and) Butylene Glycol (and) Glyceryl Linoleate (and) Prunus Amygdalus Dulcis Oil (and) Aqua (and) Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root Extract (and) Magnesium Ascorbyl Phosphate (and) Undaria Pinnatifida Extract (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Potassium Sorbate
Inhibition of melanin production of Galabridin (Lit.), Inhibiton of melanin production by Undaria Pinnatifida extract (ex-vivo), Anti-oxidative capacity of ascorbic acid (Lit.), Anti-inflammatory activity of Galabridin (Lit.), Reduction of melanin production (ex-vivo)
Age spot reduction (1 %), Cutaneous aspect is improved, aspects of the age spots are improved, I would buy such a cosmetic product (1 %; Panelist‘s evaluation)
Benzyl alcohol, Potassium sobrate
0.5 - 1 % Water dispersible
Synergistic complex of whitening actives encapsulated in Spherulites for improved penetration of the well known whitening actives, Specific treatment against age spots
10
Product INCI in-vitro / ex-vivo in-vivo Preserv-atives
Use level Solubility Features
MARILIANCE Aqua (and) Propanediol (and) Rhodosorus Marinus Extract
Reduction of TRPV1 expression, Inhibition of the expression of IL-1α, NRG, NGF R, Reduction of NGF production, Reduction of IL1α synthesis, Penetration of Mariliance in emulsion and validation of the results observed in-vitro on IL-1α production (ex-vivo)
Reduction of skin sensitivity (3 %, D14, D28)
None 1 - 3 % Hydrosoluble Marine neuro-soother
MUCILIANCE FRUIT()
Galactric Acid Chelating effect at wide pH-range
None 0.1 - 0.2 %
Hydrosoluble A powerful chelating agent at a wide range of pH and can replace a number of chelating agents as EDTA or citric acid, Strong anti-oxidant and boosts preservatives
NEUROPHROLINE()
Aqua (and) Propanediol (and) Tephrosia Purpurea Seed Extract
Inhibition of stress hormone cortisol release, Stimulation of β-endorphin production, Global activation of anti-stress genes (transcriptomic on keratonocytes and fibroblasts), Activation of anti-stress proteins HMOX1 and NQO1 (proteomic on keratonocytes and fibroblasts), Increase of HMOX1 and NQO1 expression in epidermis (ex-vivo)
Efficacy on stressed (polluted air) skin: Improvement of skin luminocity, Reduction of skin redness, Improvement of global skin color (2 %, D14/D28)
None 0.1 - 2 % Hydrosoluble Overall skin stress control
NYAMPLUNG OIL()
Calophyllum Inophyllum Seed Oil
SPF boosting, DNA protection from UVA and -B, Anti-oxidation, Cell repair activity after wound
None 1 - 10 % Liposoluble Dry emollient with high content at unsaponifiables and tocotrienol, Production fully ecological
OCALINE PF()
Maris Aqua (and) Aqua (and) Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Phenoxyethanol (and) Citric Acid
Inhibition of the mast cells degranulation (ex-vivo)
Preventive effect on sensitive skin/Stinging test (5 %, D14), Soothing of irritated skin (10 %, 60min, 180min, 24h)
Potassium Sorbate, Phenoxyeth-anol
3 - 10 % Hydrosoluble Prevention of sensitive skin by a neurocosmetic approach
OCALINE XP()
Maris Aqua (and) Aqua (and) Cucurbita Pepo Seed Extract (and) Citric Acid (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Potassium Sorbate
Inhibition of the mast cells degranulation (ex-vivo)
Preventive effect on sensitive skin/Stinging test (5 %, D14), Soothing of irritated skin (10 %, 60min, 180min, 24h)
Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sobrate
3 - 10 % Hydrosoluble Prevention of sensitive skin by a neurocosmetic approach
SOOTHEX CQ U/A()
Dipropylene Glycol (and) Boswellia Serrata Gum
Inhibition of 5-Lipoxygenase Reduction of skiN reddening effect induced by a depilatory cream (2.5 %), Reduction of AHA induced irritation (2 %), Reduction of SLS induced skin irritation (2.5 %)
None 0.5 - 2.5 %
Liposoluble, Hydrosoluble with surfactant
Soothing, Reduction of skin irritation, Suitable for sensitive skin formulations
SOOTHEX ISA CQ U/A()
Isostearyl Alcohol (and) Boswellia Serrata Gum
Inhibition of 5-Lipoxygenase Reduction of skin redde-ning effect induced by a depilatory cream (2.5 %), Reduction of AHA induced irritation (2 %), Reduction of SLS induced skin irritation (2.5 %)
None 0.5 - 2.5 %
Liposoluble, Hydro-soluble with surfactant
Soothing, Reduction of skin irritation, Suitable for sensitive skin formulations
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S P H E R U L I T E S ®Unique encapsulation technology
Our partner Givaudan has developed a patented micro-encapsula-tion system called Spherulites® which, alongside a fascinating suc-cess story, impresses above all for its unique technology.
Spherulites® are multi-layered microspheres of surfactants that can encapsulate both water-soluble and oil-soluble actives, and can therefore serve as transporting agents in cosmetic products. This “encapsulation” technology has interesting auxiliary propeties:
Non-ionic and anionic Spherulites®, for instance, improve penetration into the skin layers, while the cationic varieties improve adhesion on the skin surface. The multi-layered encapsulation can also be exploit-ed to achieve a long-lasting action. Furthermore, Spherulites® allow sensitive actives to be stabilized.
Alongside a standard range, custom solutions can be developed in which several active ingredients are packed together into Spherulites®.
Spherulite® microencapsulation technology
Distributed by IMPAG AG Räffelstrasse 128045 ZürichSwitzerlandPhone: +41 43 499 25 00Fax: +41 43 499 25 01E-Mail: [email protected]: www.impag.ch
IMPAG Group Country OfficesAustria/Vienna – www.impag.atFrance/Nancy – www.impag.frGermany/Offenbach – www.impag.dePoland/Warsaw – www.impag.plSwitzerland/Zurich – www.impag.ch
08/ 2017