garment production knowledge basic textile knowledge€¦ · computer aided fabric continuous...

Garment Production Knowledge

FP05-S Foundation Programme

1. Understand

Basic Textile Knowledge

2. Understand some

common Garment Terms

Objectives:



Content :

• Definition of textile fibre• Classification of textile fibres• Terminology of textile fibres• Natural fibres• Man made fibres• General properties of textile fibres


From Fibre to Consumer Product

Fibre Yarn Fabric

FinishingManufactureEnd Product


Definition of Fibre

Fibre is a slender filament or fine strand of sufficient length, pliability, and strength to be spun into yarns and woven or knitted into cloth.


Classification of Textile Fibre 纖維分類纖維分類纖維分類纖維分類Natural Fibre

天然纖維

Man-made Fibre人造纖維

Vegetable植物纖維

Cotton 棉

Linen 麻

Mineral礦物纖維

Asbestos石棉

Animal動物纖維

Silk絲

Wool羊毛

Hair 毛髮

Regenerated再造纖維

Viscose rayon黏膠人造絲

Acetate醋酯纖維

Other其他

Glass玻璃纖維

Metallic金屬纖維

Carbon碳纖維

Synthetic合成纖維

Nylon尼龍

Polyester聚酯纖維

Acrylic腈綸


Fibre classification

Natural Fibres 天然纖維天然纖維天然纖維天然纖維

Natural fibres are fibres that are naturally producedin staple or filament form and can be directly made into yarn.

They can be further divided, according to their origins into different categories.



1. Natural vegetable fibre 天然植物纖維天然植物纖維天然植物纖維天然植物纖維

2. Natural animal fibre 天然動物纖維天然動物纖維天然動物纖維天然動物纖維

3. Natural mineral fibre 天然礦物纖維天然礦物纖維天然礦物纖維天然礦物纖維

Fibre Classification

1. Natural Vegetable Fibre

Natural vegetable fibres are obtained from plants, examples include cotton 棉 and linen麻 .


Cotton Fibre

• Cotton is a seed fibre,種籽纖維 attached to the seed of the cotton plant.

• Fibre length is normally between ½ to 2 ½ inches.

• It is the most widely used fibre in the world.

• The leading producers of cotton include United States, China, India, and Egypt.


Vegetable Fibre - Cotton 棉


Flax Fibre• Flax comes from the stem of the flax plant.

• When the fibre is processed into fabric, it is called linen.

• Fibre length between 2 to 36 inches.

• Producers including Russia, Germany, France, Poland & China.


Vegetable Fibre -Flax / Linen 亞麻亞麻亞麻亞麻


2. Natural Animal Fibre

Natural animal fibres are sub-divided into threesub-classes : wool, hair and silk .

Wool , the hair from sheep 綿羊綿羊綿羊綿羊 , is treated as onesub-class because of its importance as a textile fibre.

Merino sheep produce the best wool, fibre lengthbetween 1 to 5 inches. Other classes of wool fibre, fibre length ranging from 2 to 10 inches or longer.


2. Natural Animal Fibre

Hair is the sub-class for all fibres that are obtained from any kind of mammal except sheep,綿羊綿羊綿羊綿羊examples:

Cashmere 茄士咩 / 羊絨,

Mohair 安哥拉山羊毛 / 馬海毛,

Rabbit hair 安哥拉兔毛,

Camel hair 駱駝毛


Wool 羊毛羊毛羊毛羊毛

Wool Fibre Surface

Raising Merino in Australia

My name is Merino

Fibre ClassificationWool 羊毛羊毛羊毛羊毛

Sheep Raising Sheep Shearing

Wool Handling Wool Bales ready for Shipment


Natural Animal Fibre – Animal Hair

Camel hair 駱駱駱駱駝駝駝駝毛毛毛毛


Natural Animal Fibre – Animal HairCashmere茄茄茄茄士士士士咩咩咩咩 / 羊羊羊羊絨絨絨絨


Natural Animal Fibre – Animal HairAngora Goat / Mohair 安安安安哥哥哥哥拉拉拉拉山山山山羊羊羊羊毛毛毛毛 / 馬馬馬馬海海海海毛毛毛毛


Natural Animal Fibre – Animal Hair

Angora Rabbit hair安安安安哥哥哥哥拉拉拉拉兔兔兔兔毛毛毛毛


Natural Animal FibreSilk 真絲真絲真絲真絲

• Silk is made by the silkworm as it builds itscocoon .

• The silk substance is extruded from its body inone continuous strand from beginning to end.

• It is possible to unwind the cocoons and obtain long silk filaments .


Silk 真絲真絲真絲真絲

Silk Moths

Silkworm Extrude Filament

Silkworm

Silkwormform Cocoon


Silk 真絲真絲真絲真絲

Silk Cocoon Silk Filament Surface


Silk 真絲真絲真絲真絲Cocoon Boiling Extract Filament from Cocoon

Silk Filament Silk fabric weaving


Exercise

Describe general properties of cotton and wool fibre.

Describe the difference between silk fibre and wool fibre.


3. Natural Mineral Fibre 天然礦物纖維天然礦物纖維天然礦物纖維天然礦物纖維

There is only one kind of natural mineral fibre,asbestos 石綿石綿石綿石綿.This was once a very important and widely used fibre in industry, but is now banned inmany countr ies due to health hazards associated with it.


Exercise

Describe general properties of cotton and wool fibre.

Describe the difference between silk fibre and wool fibre.



Man-made Fibre 人人人人造造造造纖纖纖纖維維維維

Man-made fibres are fibres that are made byindustrial processes, starting with materialswhich are completely different physically and chemically from the fibres made, they can be further divided into different categories.


Man-made Fibre 人造纖維人造纖維人造纖維人造纖維

a) Regenerated man-made fibres ; 再造纖維再造纖維再造纖維再造纖維

b) Synthetic man-made fibre; and 合成纖維合成纖維合成纖維合成纖維

c) Other man-made fibres. 其他人造纖維其他人造纖維其他人造纖維其他人造纖維



Regenerated man-made fibres 再再再再造造造造纖纖纖纖維維維維

Regenerated man-made fibres are made from natural polymers, such as cellulose and protein.


Regenerated man-made fibres 再造纖維再造纖維再造纖維再造纖維

Viscose rayon 人造絲人造絲人造絲人造絲 //// 人綿人綿人綿人綿

Viscose rayon is made from timber. The impuritiesin the timber are removed, leaving cellulose, whichis in solid form. In order to make fibre, a cellulosesolution must be made to form polymers. It usuallyhas a high luster quality giving it a bright shine.



Acetate 醋醋醋醋酯酯酯酯纖纖纖纖維維維維

Acetate is a manufactured fibre in which the fibre forming substance is cellulose acetate.It has a round shape with striations on the surface.The starting material for the manufacture of acetate fibre is cellulose, which can be obtained from cotton, or wood pulp.



Ingeo 玉玉玉玉米米米米纖纖纖纖維維維維

Ingeo is a polylactide fibre made from plants instead from oil.

It can be made into different form according to needsand blend with other fibres such as cotton or wool fortextile use. It is more hydrophilic than most other synthetics, allowing it to wick away perspiration.



Synthetic man-made fibres 合合合合成成成成纖纖纖纖維維維維

Synthetic man-made fibres are also produced frompolymers, but from man-made, not naturally occurringones. Synthetic man-made fibres can be further divided intosub--classes , three of which are very important, namely, in the order of world Production -- polyester, nylon (or polyamide) and acrylic .


Synthetic man-made fibres 合成纖維合成纖維合成纖維合成纖維

Nylon 錦綸錦綸錦綸錦綸

Nylon, also called polyamide, is defined as a manufactured fibre in which the fibre-forming substance is any long chain synthetic polyamide. This was first produced in 1935 byDuPont. The filament fibres are round, smooth and shiny.It’s most widely used structures are monofilament, staple or tow and is available as partially drawn or as finished filaments.



Polyester 滌滌滌滌綸綸綸綸

The raw materials for the manufacture of polyester are ethylene and phenol, which are both obtained from petroleum. Polyester can be produced in different form and have good change of shape after application of heat (thermosetting). Thermo-pleating and wrinkle free application are commonlyused on polyester fabric.



Acrylic 腈腈腈腈綸綸綸綸

Acrylic is a long-chain polymer composed of at least 85% by weight of acrylonitrile units. Acrylic are produced almost exclusively as staple fibres. The DuPont created the first acrylic fibre in 1941 and named as “Orlon”. They are lightweight, soft, warm and have a wool-like handle, low density, and good resistance to light and chemicals.



Spandex 氨氨氨氨綸綸綸綸

Spandex or elastane is a polyurethane fibre that can give good elasticity. It was invented in 1959 by DuPont and their trademark is “Lycra”. It is stronger and more durable than rubber. It can achieve tight-fitting effect and give comfort to movements.



Other man-made fibres 其他其他其他其他纖纖纖纖維維維維

The third class of man-made fibre is comprised of those fibres which do not belong to either of the above-mentioned classes. Included in this class are metallic fibre 金金金金屬屬屬屬纖纖纖纖維維維維, glass fibre 玻玻玻玻璃璃璃璃纖纖纖纖維維維維 and carbon fibre 碳碳碳碳纖纖纖纖維維維維, which have an extensive range of primarily industrial uses.


Discussion/Exercise

Name and discuss two regenerated man-made fibres.

Name two natural fibres and give their special features.

General Properties of Textile Fibre

Fibre Properties

General properties of fibre

1) Length 長度長度長度長度

Fibre must have a certain length to enable it to be spun into yarn. Fibres are grouped into two categories, according to their length.a) Staple fibres and 短纖維

b) Filamentary fibres 長絲

Fibre Properties


2) Diameter or Fineness 直徑直徑直徑直徑 //// 幼度幼度幼度幼度The diameter refers to the thickness of the fibre. In natural fibres, diameter usually varies from one part of the fibre to another and cause irregularities in fibre size.

Fibre Properties

General properties of fibre2) Diameter or Fineness 直徑直徑直徑直徑 //// 幼度幼度幼度幼度

Shape of different fibre diameter

Fibre Properties


3) Strength / Tenacity 韌韌韌韌度度度度

Strength is a fibre’s ability to withstand stress. Fibre strength, the force needed to break the fibre, is known as tenacity and expressed in grams per denier or grams per fibre weight.

Fibre Properties

General properties of fibre4) Elasticity 彈彈彈彈力力力力

Elasticity is the ability of a fibre to recover from deformations, including bending, extension and creasing.

Fibre Properties


5) Luster 光光光光澤澤澤澤

Luster refers to the light reflected from a surface.Various characteristics of a fibre affect the amount of luster. Increased light reflection occurs from a smoother surface, less crimp, flatter cross-sectional shape, and longer fibre length.

Fibre Properties

General properties of fibre6) Pilling 毛毛毛毛粒粒粒粒

Pilling is the formation of groups of short or broken fibres on the surface of a fabric that are tangled together in the shape of a tiny ball called a pill.

Fibre Properties


7) Abrasion Resistance 抵抗磨擦抵抗磨擦抵抗磨擦抵抗磨擦Abrasion resistance is the ability to resist wear from rubbing that contributesto fabric durability.

8) Absorbency / Moisture regain 吸濕力吸濕力吸濕力吸濕力Absorbency is the ability to take in moisture.

Fibre Properties


9) Resistance to Detergents, Chemical and Solvent 抵抗清潔劑抵抗清潔劑抵抗清潔劑抵抗清潔劑、、、、化學物及乾洗劑化學物及乾洗劑化學物及乾洗劑化學物及乾洗劑It is desirable for fibre to be resistant to detergents, since most textile end-products need to be cleaned by being washed in water or dry clean with detergent.

Fibre Properties

General properties of fibre10) Thermal Stability 熱熱熱熱穩穩穩穩定定定定性性性性

Thermal stability is the ability to withstand high temperature.

11) Flammability 可可可可燃燃燃燃性性性性Flammability is the ability to burn. This characteristic is important because we are surrounded with various textile products. This is especially important to babies & children’s wear, sleep wear and functional wear.

Fibre Properties


12) Thermoplasticity 熱熱熱熱塑塑塑塑性性性性The ability of fibres to withstand heat exposure is an important factor affecting their suitability for many end uses.

Discussion/Exercise

Discuss any two fibre properties that you consider are more important for garment making.

Suggest the material to make sportswear and give reasons.

Fibre Properties

Common Garment Terms


Basic Items -- Ready To Wear


Artificial Fur / Fake Fur Garment


Basic Items

Woolen suiting

Woolen knitwear


Basic Items

Bermuda Shorts

Riding Breeches


Basic Items

Flare Skirt Pleated Skirt Bias Skirt


Basic Items

Straight Skirt Panel Skirt Gored Skirt


Basic Items

Culottes Shift Dress


Basic Items

Occasion Ladies Wear & Kids Wear


Basic Items

Hand knitted sweater Pullover Knitted co-ordinates


Basic Items

Cardigan Blended Sw eater


Basic Items

Trench Coat Camisole Vest


Manufacturing Terms

Construction Line Notching on Pattern


Manufacturing Terms

Pattern Grading

Marker Layout


Manufacturing Terms

Potting 1st pattern to computer

Computer Marker Layout & Checking

Marker Printing


Manufacturing Terms

Computer aided Fabric Continuous Fusing Ma chineCutting


Manufacturing Terms

Fabric Cutting Fabric Cutting with me tal gloves


Manufacturing Terms

French Seam Directional Line

Collar Point

Shoulder Yoke

Sleeve

Sleeve Placket

Cuff

Vent

Collar Band

Collar

Collar Button

Armhole

Chest Pocket

Front Placket

Front Panel

Sleeve Placket

Cuff Button

Garment Parts Description


Waistband

Slanting Pocket

Out-leg Seam

Turn-up

Belt Loops

Front Pleats

Front Fly

Front Rise

Front Crease

Inseam

Manufacturing Terms

Bust Dart and Waist Dart


Flare SleevesKimono Sleeves Batwing Sleeves


Raglan Sleeves Puff Sleeves Bishop SleevesPetal Sleeves


Thank You

garment production knowledge basic textile knowledge€¦ · computer aided fabric continuous...

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