fusing spme final
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FUSINGBy:
Ashutosh KumarAshutosh vatsa
Kr. Pramendra SinhaS.k. Pegu
What is Fusing?
It is a process of attaching an interlining, especially to the part of a garment that requires stiffness.Some of the application area of Fusing in a garment are placket, collar, cuff, waistband, men's jacket forefront, etc.
Requirements for Fusing
Base Cloth
Resins
Coating System Interlining
Base Clothes (Substrate)
It is an interlining material onto which the thermoplastic resin is coated, sprayed or printed.Properties of Garment influenced:• Handle and Bulk• Shape Retention• Shrinkage Control• Crease – Recovery• Appearance• Durability
Non-woven
Knitted
Woven
Types:
Types of Interlining
Woven
• ••Produced from animal hair, viscose, cotton, polyester or acrylic fiber.
• ••Maximum control on shrinkage and shape retention.
• ••Varying properties in warp and weft direction.
Knitted
• ••Produced from Polyester, polyamide, acrylic and viscose fiber.
• ••Elasticity to the fused Components.
• ••Soft and lofty handle.
Non-woven
• ••Originated from paper industry.
• ••Mixture of fiber held together at bond sites.
• ••Factors affecting end performance: fiber, web formation, bonding.
Woven Interlining
Knitted Interlining
Non-Woven Interlining
Non woven Interlining
• Extensively used in Industry.• Properties could be modified as per end uses.• Fibers: mostly Synthetic fiber like viscose, nylon,
polyester or acrylic is used.• Web Formation: orientation of fiber in substrate
Dry laid web formation Wet laid web formation Spun bonded webs
• Bonding: locking of fiber together. Mechanical bonding Chemical bonding
Resins
The material applied to base cloth and when subjected to heat and pressure, they become the sole bonding agent between Top cloth and Interlining.Thermoplasticity, change with heat, is the basis of fusible interlinings.In cold state, it is not adhesive, when subjected to heat and pressure, melts and creates a bond.
Factors affecting suitability of Resins:
• Upper limit temperature generally not more than 1750c, should not damage top cloth
• Lower limit temperature generally not less than 1100c, to ensure adequacy of bonding
• Cleanability To withstand the washing and cleaning throughout life of garment
• Thermoplasticity Change in heat and pressure is sufficient enough to form a bond with
top cloth
• Handle Should contribute to desire handle of final laminate
• Safety Harmless in processing and end-use
Types of Resins
• Polyethylene : used for wash and wear garments, washable and Dry-cleanable.
• Polyamide : Dry-cleanable.• Polyester : Cheaper, wide range of fusing
temperature (650-1200C).• PVC : used for siliconized rainwear fabric,
requires softening with plasticizers.• Resin Blends : used for specific purposes, blend
of above mentioned maerial.
Distribution of Resin
Inadequate bonding(incorrect)Strike through and strike Back(incorrect)Correct bonding with good Penetration of Adhesive(correct)
Components of Fusing
• ••Resin melt Temp. is 1300-1600C, applied Temp. should be in the range of ±50C
• ••Too high Temp. could cause strike through or strike back
Temperature
• ••Use of electro-mechanical timing devices to measure time
• ••Time applied depends upon type and nature of resin, substrate, top cloth and fusing equipments.
Time • ••Reduces the latent temperature to 300C
• ••Use of water cooled plates, air-circulation, vacuum.
Cooling• ••Used
to establish an intimate contact between to-cloth and fusible.
• ••Applied via platens, bucks or nip rollers.
Pressure
Single Fusing• ••Fusible positioned on the top of the Cloth
Reverse Fusing• ••Cloth is Positioned on the top of Fusible
Sandwich Fusing• ••Fusing 2 components in 1 operation• ••Cloth on the outside, 2 fusible in the middle
Double Fusing• ••Fusing 2 fusible positioned one on the top of other, to the top cloth in 1 operation
Top Fusing• ••Fusible components are positioned on the top of the cloth and heat I applied directly to the top cloth
Fusing Methods
Coating System
The process in which thermoplastic resin is deposited or secured onto the substrate material.It involves the application of carefully selected Particle size fraction of Particular resin being used.
Coating Methods:
• Scatter coating:o largest particle size 150 to 400 micronso Specifically designed scattering heads provides
scatter under automatic controlo Resin is softened in an oveno Pressed on base cloth and cooledo Cheapest methodo Product is not uniform and flexible
Coating Methods (Contd):
• Dry dot printed coating:o Powdered resin fills engraved holes on the rollero Base cloth passed over heated rollero Then against engraved rollerso The powdered resin adheres to cloth in from of dotso Followed by oven heating for permanent adhesiono Temp and pressure of rollers depends on resin typeso Pattern : 3 – 12 dots /cmo Light weight fabric - small dot – high concentrationo Heavy weight fabric – large dot – small concentration
Coating Methods (Contd):
• Paste coating:o Resin powder blended with water or other agents to
form smooth paste o Printed on base clotho Heat removes water o Gives precisely shaped dots ANUSHAo Gives fine dotso Used in shirt colour fusible
• Performed system• Extrusion laminating• Emulsion laminating
Defects in fusing Process:
Fusing Equipments
Flat Bed PressContinuous
Fusing Machine
Hand Iron Steam Press
High Frequency Fusing
Flat Bed Press
• Padded top and Bottom bucks• Heating Element in 1 or both bucks• Bottom Buck Static, Top buck can be moved
vertically• Option of Single tray and Twin tray systems• Low Productivity• The three processes are Loading, Fusing and
Cooling.
Flat Bed Press
Continuous Fusing Press
• Use of Conveyor Belt as a mean of transport• Synchronized belt speed• Heating plates, cylinder, rollers, and heating
zones are used• Rubber covered steel rollers to apply pressure• Air cooling and water cooling systems• Take off could be done manually or mechanically
Continuous Fusing Press
High Frequency Fusing
• Multiple plies are stacked up (up to 70 mm height) and fused simultaneously
• High Productivity• Heat from high frequency energy• No shrinkage or color change • Dielectric heat: plates generate high frequency
field, heat effect is distributed uniformly in length ,width and full height between platen
High Frequency Fusing
• Heating effect is different for different polymers• Adhesive is heated up faster than fabric or
interlining• Time depend on capacity of High Frequency
unit and weight of load to be fusedo E.g.; 30 Kw unit ; load 5-20 kg :– 1-3 min
• Disadvantage: the press needs to be set for fusing materials on basis of fibre, content, weight thickness and moisture content
High Frequency Fusing
Manufacturers:
• Shanghai Dahe New Material Technology Co., Ltd
• Rocmachine Co., Ltd.• Tianjin Tian-Yin Machinery And Electron Co.,
Ltd.
Quality Control
• Temperature Test papers : reacts by changing color.
• Pyrometers : high accuracy, rapid response, costly.
• Stop watch: High accuracy.• Peel strength Test• Dry-clean and wash Test.
Control System
Thank you
• Bibliography:o Fusing Technology by Gerry Cooklino www.fusingpressindia.como machinery.fibre2fashion.com/7/fusing-machineo www.apparelntextile.com/
products_apparel_interlinings.html