formulating the future...argan oil conditioner with serashine® em 801 (rc-15) introducing...

GUIDE FORMULATIONS

Formulating the Future

The KCC Corporation is a family owned business founded in 1958 which employs over 4,600 people in 17 countries. The company is headquartered in Seoul, South Korea and are a global leader in coatings and speciality chemicals. KCC is a proud, relatively new entrant to the silicones industry, with functional siloxane ingredients designed to meet the ever growing global demands for safe, effective and environmentally sound technology, with a strong focus on the personal care sector.

Basildon Chemicals is a UK based specialist manufacturer and formulator of silicone emulsions and silicone compounds for the personal care sector. Established in 1971, they are renowned as a company with a history of excellence in the emulsification of silicones. In April 2011, Basildon Chemicals was purchased by the KCC Corporation and, to this day, continue their focus on the consumer markets of food, pharmaceuticals and personal care.

About us

Korean Trends

KCC Beauty brings together under one brand an exciting range of raw materials for Personal Care, based on the combined strengths of both KCC Silicones and Basildon Chemicals.

With personal care manufacturing and technical service centres in Korea and the UK, and a new plant in China; KCC Beauty is well positioned to meet our customers’ increasing needs for innovative technology and formulation support.

KCC Beauty is driven by the latest trends in the Asian personal care market. We work closely with our customers to help create sophisticated and innovative formulations, see examples of these on pages marked with...

KCC Beauty, Formulating the Future

Korean Trends

Hair Care 05 Argan Oil Shampoo with SeraShine® EM 802 (PS-14)

06 Argan Oil Conditioner with SeraShine® EM 801 (RC-15)

07 Scalp Scaling Shampoo (ST-1)

08 Curl Defining Conditioner (RC-17)

09 Hydrating Hair Essence (CC-23)

10 Anti-Frizz Hair Perfume Mist II (HJ14S_07)

Skin Care 11 Facial Scrub for Men (FW-4)

12 Shaving Oil Gel (SH-2)

13 Waterfull Cream (SJ15S_02)

14 Sebum Control Mist for Men (SJ15F_09)

15 All in One Essence for Men (SJ14S_06)

16 Tightening Serum Crème (AA-3)

17 Argan Skin Cream (FM-3)

18 Pore Perfecting Cushion Primer (MUP-2)

Colour Cosmetics

19 Ultra Shine Lip Gloss (CC-L-11)

20 Pore Cover Mousse Foundation (CC-F-12)

Index

4

5

Guide FormulationHair Care

Argan Oil Shampoo with SeraShine® EM 802 (PS-14)

Introducing SeraShine® EM 802; part of our new range of emulsions containing natural oil. SeraShine® EM 802 brings together the benefits of both high viscosity dimethicone and argan oil to give optimum conditioning and smoothing performance.

Raw Material/INCI Name % w/w Trade name/Supplier Function

Aqua (Water) To 100 - Vehicle

Glycerin 0.25 Surfac G995V/Surfachem Humectant

Polyquaternium-10 0.25 Celquat SC230M/Azelis (Akzo Nobel)

Conditioning/Deposition Agent

Sodium Laureth Sulfate 33.68 Steol CS-230 KE/Surfachem (Stepan)

Anionic Surfactant

Acrylates Copolymer 4.00 Carbopol Aqua SF-1/Surfachem (Lubrizol)

Suspending Agent

Sodium Hydroxide 0.40 Sodium Hydroxide Liquor 32%/Univar

pH Adjuster

Cocamidopropyl Betaine 8.57 Surfac B4/Surfachem Amphoteric Surfactant

Glycol Distearate (and) Laureth-4 (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine

3.00 Tego Pearl N300/Surfachem (Evonik)

Pearliser

Dimethicone (and) Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernal Oil (and) Laureth-4 (and) C12-14 sec-pareth-9

3.85 SeraShine® EM 802/KCC Beauty

Conditioning Agent

Parfum (Fragrance) 0.70 Green Beauty/Expressions Parfumées

Fragrance

Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzoic Acid (and) Dehydroacetic Acid (and) Ethylhexylglycerin

1.00 Euxyl K701/Schülke Preservative

Colourant q.s. - Aesthetics

Sodium Chloride q.s. Sodium Chloride PDV/ British Salt

Thickener

Typical PropertiesAppearance: Pale orange, pearlised, viscous liquidViscosity @ 25°C: 9000 – 11000cPs (Brookfield RVT, Sp3, 10rpm)pH @ 25°C: 6.2 – 6.6

Method• Add the water to the vessel.• Premix the glycerin and polyquaternium-10, add to the water and stir until clear.• Add the SLES. Stir until homogenous and add the acrylates copolymer. Adjust to pH 6.50 – 7.50

using sodium hydroxide.• Add the rest of the ingredients in order.• Adjust viscosity and pH to spec.


Argan Oil Conditioner with SeraShine® EM 801 (RC-15)

Introducing SeraShine® EM 801; part of our new range of emulsions containing natural oil. SeraShine® EM 801 is an emulsion of 100% Moroccan, organic, deodorised argan oil. Gives excellent natural conditioning and easy incorporation of argan oil into aqueous products.




Hydroxyethylcellulose 0.75 Natrosol 250 HHR-PC/IMCD (Ashland)

Thickener

Citric Acid 0.40 Surfac Citric Acid Monohydrate BP/Surfachem

pH Adjuster

Cetearyl Alcohol 5.00 Crodacol CS90/Croda Bodifying Fat

Stearyl Alcohol 3.00 Crodacol S95/Croda Bodifying Fat

Behentrimonium Chloride (and) Isopropyl Alcohol

1.00 Incroquat Behenyl TMC-85/Croda

Conditioning Fat

Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernal Oil (and) C12-14 sec-Pareth-5 (and) C12-14 sec-Pareth-9

3.85 SeraShine® EM 801/ KCC Beauty

Conditioning Agent

Parfum (Fragrance) 0.50 Green Beauty/Expressions Parfumées

Fragrance


Phenoxyethanol (and) Benzyl Alcohol (and) Potassium Sorbate (and) Aqua (and) Tocopherol


Typical PropertiesAppearance: Pale orange, viscous emulsionViscosity @ 25°C: 10000 – 20000cPs (Brookfield Helipath, T Bar C,10rpm)pH @ 25°C: 3.5 – 4.5

Method• Add the water to the vessel and begin to stir.• Premix the glycerin and hydroxyethylcellulose, add to the water and stir until thickened.

Continue to heat to 80 – 85°C. Add the fats and stir until melted. Homogenise at 3000rpm until smooth and white.

• Cool to below 40°C and add the remaining ingredients in order.

6

7


Scalp Scaling Shampoo (ST-1)

Taking care of your scalp is just as important as your hair. Exfoliating shampoos and masks have become more popular recently to remove dead skin and sebum from the scalp. They also remove any build-up from styling products and volumise the hair. SeraSense® SQ 41 is a water-soluble silicone that gives conditioning without weighing the hair down.


Sodium Laureth Sulfate (and) Aqua

To 100 Steol CS 230 KE/Surfachem (Stepan)

Anionic Surfactant

Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate (and) Aqua

7.00 Crodacol LS30/Croda Anionic Surfactant

Parfum (Fragrance) 0.30 Fresh Care/Expressions Parfumées

Fragrance

Sodium Benzoate 0.30 Surfac Sodium Benzoate BP/Surfachem

Preservative

Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice (and) Algae Extract (and) Camellia Oleifera Leaf Extract (and) Glycerin

1.00 Actisea H2O/Azelis (Active Organics)

Moisturising

Silicone Quaternium-8 1.25 SeraSense® SQ 41/KCC Beauty Conditioning

Sodium Chloride 60.00 Sodium Chloride PDV/British Salt

Exfoliant

Maris Sal 5.00 Coarse Sea Salt/Various Exfoliant

Citric Acid 0.40 Surfac Citric Acid Monohydrate/ Surfachem

pH Adjuster

Typical PropertiesAppearance: Thick pasteViscosity @ 25°C: n/apH @ 25°C: 4.4 - 4.9

Method• Begin by adding the Crodasinic to the vessel and stir gently.• Add the rest of the ingredients in order, finally adding the SLES.

Korean Trends


Curl Defining Conditioner (RC-17)

Say goodbye to frizzy hair thanks to SeraSense® RB 22, the ultimate ingredient for curl definition and humidity resistance. This blend of volatile silicone and film-forming resin offers instant and long-lasting conditioning for even the wildest of locks.



Disodium EDTA 0.20 Edeta BD/BASF Chelating Agent


Hydroxyethylcellulose 1.50 Natrosol 250 HHR-PC/IMCD (Ashland)

Thickener

Citric Acid 0.33 Surfac Citric Acid Monohydrate BP/Surfachem

pH Adjuster

Cetyl Alcohol 1.00 Crodacol C90/Croda Bodifying Fat

Stearyl Alcohol 1.00 Crodacol S95/Croda Bodifying Fat

Behentrimonium Chloride (and) Isopropyl Alcohol

0.25 Incroquat Behenyl TMC-85/Croda

Conditioning Fat

Cyclopentasiloxane (and) Trimethylsiloxysilicate

2.00 SeraSense® RB 22/KCC Beauty Anti-Frizz/Humidity Resistance

Parfum (Fragrance) 0.50 - Fragrance



Typical PropertiesAppearance: White, viscous emulsionViscosity @ 25°C: 10000 – 20000cPs (Brookfield Helipath, T Bar C,10rpm)pH @ 25°C: 3.0 – 4.0

Method• Add the water to the vessel and begin to stir.• Premix the glycerin and hydroxyethylcellulose, add to the water and stir until thickened.

Continue to heat to 80 – 85°C. Add the fats and stir until melted. Homogenise at 3000rpm until smooth and white.

• Cool to below 40°C and add the remaining ingredients in order.

8

9


Hydrating Hair Essence (CC-23)

This light hair lotion is quick to absorb into wet or dry hair, without the need for rinsing. Can also be used as a ‘ponytail mask’ which is a new trend in Korea. SeraShine® EM 121 offers excellent wet and dry conditioning for all hair types, whilst SeraSense® SF 1.5 gives instant detangling.



Disodium EDTA 0.02 Edeta BD/BASF Chelating Agent

Sodium Benzoate 0.40 Surfac Sodium Benzoate BP/Surfachem

Preservative

Polyquaternium-37 (and) Hydrogenated Polydecene (and) Trideceth-6 (and) Aqua

4.00 VisCaress HPD/Croda Thickener

Dimethicone 2.00 SeraSense® SF 1.5/KCC Beauty Detangling

Dimethicone (and) C11-15 Pareth-5 (and) C11-15 Pareth-9


Conditioning Agent

Camellia Oleifera Seed Oil 0.10 Seatons Camellia Oil/Seatons Hair Moisturising

Parfum (Fragrance) 0.10 Delicate Blossom/Expressions Parfumées

Fragrance

Citric Acid 0.09 Surfac Citric Acid Monohydrate/Surfachem

pH Adjuster

Typical PropertiesAppearance: White lotionViscosity @ 25°C: ~15000 (Brookfield Helipath, T Bar C, 10rpm)pH @ 25°C: 4.4 – 4.9

Method• Mix the water, EDTA and sodium benzoate and stir until dissolved.• Add the VisCaress, stir until thickened; homogenisation may be required.• Add the rest of the ingredients in order.

Korean Trends

10

Korean Trends


Anti-Frizz Hair Perfume Mist II (HJ14S_07)

Highly-perfumed hair products are popular in Asia for giving long-lasting, all day freshness. This formulation also has the advantage of superior conditioning thanks to the blend of SeraShine® EM 503 and SeraShine® EM 308. SeraSense® RB 22 is a spectacular anti-frizz agent and humidity barrier.


Phase A


Glycerin 3.00 Various Humectant

Disodium EDTA 0.02 Various Chelating Agent

Dimethicone (and) Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and) Trideceth-7 (and) Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride


Superior Conditioning

Amodimethicone (and) Steartrimonium Chloride


Conditioning for Dry, Damaged Hair

PEG-12 Dimethicone 0.50 SeraSol® SC 81/KCC Beauty Conditioning

Phenoxyethanol 0.30 Various Preservative

Dye q.s. - Aesthetics

Phase B

Trisiloxane 12.00 SeraSense® SF 1/KCC Beauty Solvent/Volatility


2.00 SeraSense® RB 22/KCC Beauty Anti-frizz Agent/Non-Transfer

Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernal Oil

0.20 Argan Oil/OLVEA Conditioning

Phase C

Parfum (Fragrance) q.s. - Fragrance

Typical PropertiesAppearance: Dual-phaseViscosity @ 25°C: n/apH @ 25°C: n/a

Method• Mix the ingredients of Phase A until homogenous.• Mix Phases B & C together until homogenous.• Fill A and B+C separately into bottles.

11

Korean Trends

Guide FormulationSkin Care

Facial Scrub for Men (FW-4)

This facial scrub is designed to prepare the skin for shaving. SeraSoft® SW 75 is a soft wax which melts on contact with skin, leaving it soft and smooth; improving razor glide.



Xanthan Gum 0.40 XGF FEDCS-PC/Surfachem (CP Kelco)

Thickening/Suspending


Glucono Delta Lactone (and) Sodium Benzoate (and) Calcium Gluconate

1.00 Saliguard Ultima/Surfachem (Salicylates and Chemicals)

Preservative

Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate (and) Aqua

18.75 Iselux LQ/Innospec Anionic Surfactant

Cocamidopropyl Betaine (and) Aqua

8.33 Surfac B4/Surfachem Amphoteric Surfactant

Sodium Methyl Cocoyl Taurate 9.00 Pureact WS Conc/Innospec Anionic Surfactant

Bis-PEG-18 Methyl Ether Dimethyl Silane

2.50 SeraSoft® SW 75/KCC Beauty Skin Conditioning

Styrene Acrylates Copolymer (and) Aqua (and) Sodium Lauryl Sulfate

1.20 Lytron 180AV/Azelis (Omnova) Opacifier

Aqua (Water) 4.80 - Vehicle


Mica (and) CI 77891 (and) Disodium Stearoyl Glutamate

0.33 Soft Veil Silver/Miyoshi Aesthetics


Jojoba Esters 2.00 Florabeads 60/100/Protec (Floratech)

Exfoliant

Sodium Chloride 0.60 Sodium Chloride PDV/British Salt

Thickener

Typical PropertiesAppearance: Silver liquidViscosity @ 25°C: 3,000 – 5,000cPs (Brookfield RVT, Sp3, 10rpm)pH @ 25°C: 5.5 – 6.5

Method• Add the water to the vessel.• Premix the Xanthan Gum with the glycerin and add to the batch. Stir until fully dispersed.• Add the Saliguard, Iselux and Surfac B4.• Add the Pureact and SeraSoft® SW 75, gentle heating may be required to fully disperse.• Premix the Lytron with the water and add to the batch.• Add the rest of the ingredients in order, stirring until homogenous between additions.

12


Shaving Oil Gel (SH-2)

SeraSense® GB 25 is a gum blend of very high viscosity dimethicone and 350cS, meaning the carrier will not evaporate, unlike other gum blends. This product is perfect for reducing razor burn and moisturising the skin. As it is an emulsion, it is easily washed off the skin.


Phase A


PEG-12 Dimethicone 1.00 SeraSol® SC 81/KCC Beauty Humectant

Propanediol 10.00 Zemea/IMCD (Dupont) Humectant


Citric Acid 0.11 Surfac Citric Acid Mono BP/Surfachem

pH Adjuster



Phase B

Sodium Acrylate (and) Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer (and) Isohexadecane (and) Polysorbate 80

4.00 Simulgel EG/Seppic Thickener

Dimethicone 25.00 SeraSense® GB 25/KCC Beauty Moisturising/Improves Razor Glide

Isopropyl Myristate 3.00 Surfac IPM/Surfachem Emollient

Olea Europaea (Olive) Fruit Oil 3.00 Seatons Olive Pomace Oil/Seatons

Moisturising


Phase C


Typical PropertiesAppearance: Turquoise, viscous gelViscosity @ 25°C: >15000cP (Brookfield RVT, Sp4, 10rpm)pH @ 25°C: 5.5 – 6.5

Method• Mix the ingredients of Phase A until homogenous.• In a separate vessel, mix the ingredients of Phase B. • Add B to A and stir until thick and smooth.• Add Phase C.

13


Waterfull Cream (SJ15S_02)

This quick-break formulation is super- lightweight giving a cool, watery feeling. SeraSol® EL 92 is an emulsifying elastomer, making it extremely stable with a soft, powdery after-feel.


Phase A

Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer

4.00 SeraSol® EL 92/KCC Beauty W/O Emulsifier

Cyclopentasiloxane 12.00 SeraSense® CM5/KCC Beauty Fast Absorption/Moisturising

Phase B



Portulaca Oleracea Extract 3.00 Various Skin Conditioning

Sodium Chloride 1.20 Various Buffer

Phase C



Typical PropertiesAppearance: Translucent, viscous gelViscosity @ 25°C: >60000cP (Brookfield LVDV II, LV-4, 6rpm)pH @ 25°C: n/a

Method• Mix the ingredients of Phase A until homogenous.• In a separate vessel, mix the ingredients of Phase B, then add to Phase A. • Add the ingredients of Phase C, stirring until homogenous.• Check pH and viscosity.

Korean Trends

14

Korean Trends


Sebum Control Mist for Men (SJ15F_09)

An easy to use formulation to be spritzed over the face after moisturising. SeraSilk® EM 602 is an emulsion of elastomer powder, therefore absorbing sebum and mattifying the skin. SeraSense® SF MTM is highly volatile, allowing for fast absorption of the product.


Phase A


Butylene Glycol 5.00 Various Humectant


Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate 0.02 Various Skin Conditioning

PEG-12 Dimethicone 1.00 SeraSol® SC 81/KCC Beauty Emulsifier

Portulaca Olearaca Extract 3.00 Various Skin Conditioning

Phase B

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

0.30 HCO-60/Nikko Solubiliser



Phase C

Methyl Trimethicone 5.00 SeraSense® SF MTM/KCC Beauty

Fast Absorption/ Moisturising

Phase D

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) C12-14 sec-Pareth-7

15.00 SeraSilk® EM 602/KCC Beauty Sebum Control/ Pore Cover

Typical PropertiesAppearance: Dual-phase EmulsionViscosity @ 25°C: n/apH @ 25°C: 5.0 – 7.0

Method• Mix Phase A and B in separate vessels.• When homogenous, add Phase B to A with stirring. Add Phases C and D.

15

Korean Trends


All in One Essence for Men (SJ14S_06)

This oil and alcohol-free formulation gives a cool feeling to the skin. SeraSilk® EM 602 smoothes without feeling tacky, also reducing pore size and absorbing sebum. SeraSense® SF CM5 aids spreading of the gel.


Phase A




Dipropylene Glycol 3.00 Various Humectant

Glycereth-26 2.00 Liponic EG-1/Lipo Chemical Skin Conditioning

Sodium Hyaluronate (1% sol) 10.00 Various Humectant

Portulaca Oleracea Extract 3.00 Various Skin Conditioning

PEG-11 Methyl Ether Dimethicone

1.00 SeraSol® SC 85/KCC Beauty Si/W Emulsifier

Phase B

Dimethicone 1.00 SeraSense® SF 100/KCC Beauty

Skin Conditioning

Dimethicone 3.00 SeraSense® SF 6/KCC Beauty Skin Conditioning

Cyclopentasiloxane 3.00 SeraSense® SF CM5/KCC Beauty

Skin Conditioning

Phase C

PEG-60 Hydrogenated Castor Oil

0.40 HCO-60/Nikko Solubiliser



Phase D

Hydroxyethylacrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyltaurate Copolymer (and) Squalane (and) Polysorbate 60

2.00 Simulgel NS/Seppic Thickener

Ammonium Acryloyldimethyltaurate/VP Copolymer

0.40 Aristoflex AVC/Clariant Thickener

Phase E

Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer (and) C12-14 sec-Pareth-7

3.00 SeraSilk® EM 602/KCC Beauty Sebum Control/Pore Cover

Typical PropertiesAppearance: White, viscous gel-creamViscosity @ 25°C: >45000 cP (Brookfield LVDV II, LV 4, 6rpm)pH @ 25°C: 5.5 – 6.5

Method• Mix the ingredients of Phase A until homogenous.• In a separate vessel, mix the ingredients of Phase B.

Add B to A and homogenise for 5 minutes.• Premix Phase C and add to A+B.• Add Phase D and E.• Check pH and viscosity.


Tightening Serum Crème (AA-3)

The elastomer in this serum crème, SeraSilk® EL 64 gives the skin a luxurious feel, leaving it powdery soft. SeraSense® GB 12 aids skin smoothness and SeraSense® SF PTM helps the lotion to spread easily.



Propanediol 5.00 Zemea/IMCD (DuPont) Humectant

Sorghum Bicolor Stalk Juice (and) Water (Aqua) (and) Sodium Polystyrene Sulfonate (and) Glycerin

7.00 Dynalift/Sederma Tightens skin

Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin

1.00 Euxyl PE 9010/Schülke Preservative

Dimethicone (and) Dimethicone/Vinyl Dimethicone Crosspolymer

10.00 SeraSilk® EL 64/KCC Beauty Skin feel

Dimethicone (and) Dimethiconol

2.50 SeraSense® GB 12/KCC Beauty Skin feel

Phenyl Trimethicone 3.00 SeraSense® SF PTM/ KCC Beauty

Aids spreading

Salvia Hispanica (Chia) Seed Oil 2.00 Seatons Chia Seed Oil/Seatons Source of Omega 3


Sodium Polyacrylate (and) Ethylhexyl Cocoate (and) PPG-3 Benzyl Ether Myristate (and) Polysorbate 20

4.00 ViscOptima SE/Croda Thickener/Emulsifier

Typical PropertiesAppearance: Cream coloured, viscous liquidViscosity @ 25°C: 20000 – 40000cP (Brookfield RVT, Sp4, 2.5rpm)pH @ 25°C: 5.5 – 6.0

Method• Add the water to the vessel and begin stirring.• Add the ingredients in order up to the silicones.• Premix the silicones until smooth, and then add to the batch.• Add the rest of the ingredients in order. Once the ViscOptima has been added, a cream will form.• Homogenisation may be required to fully blend in the elastomer gel.• Check the pH and viscosity and adjust accordingly.

16


Nourishing Argan Oil Cream (FM-3)

SeraShine® EM 802 is not only an excellent hair conditioning agent; it also conditions and softens skin for a luxurious feel. Emulsifying Argan Oil allows for more stable formulations, and a high level of oil can be added without discolouring the final product.


Phase A -

Glyceryl Stearate 5.50 Cutina GMS-SE/Cornelius (BASF)

Viscosity Modifier

Stearic Acid (and) Palmitic Acid 1.50 Cutina FS 45/Cornelius (BASF) Emulsifier

Cetearyl Alcohol 3.00 Crodacol CS90/Croda Viscosity Modifier

Olus Oil (and) Hydrogenated Vegetable Oil (and) Euphorbia Cerifera (Candelilla) Wax

1.00 Cegesoft VP/Cornelius (BASF) Emollient

Caprylyl Caprylate/Caprate 8.00 Cetiol RLF/Cornelius (BASF) Emollient

Olus Oil 6.00 Cegesoft PS 6/Cornelius (BASF) Emollient

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride 6.00 Crodamol GTCC/Croda Emollient

Tocopherol 0.50 dl-α-Tocopherol/Adina (DSM) Anti-oxidant

Dimethicone (and) Argania Spinosa (Argan) Kernal Oil (and) C12-14 Pareth-9 (and) Laureth-4


Skin Conditioning

Xanthan Gum 0.20 XGF FEDCS-PC/Surfachem (Jungbunzlauer)

Viscosity Modifier

Phase B

Glycerin 8.00 S urfac G995V/Surfachem Humectant


Phase C

Phenoxyethanol (and) Ethylhexylglycerin

1.00 Euxyl PE9010/Schülke Preservative


Typical PropertiesAppearance: Viscous, white creamViscosity @ 25°C: 20000 - 30000cP (Brookfield RVT, Sp5, 10rpm)pH @ 25°C: 6.5 – 7.5

Method• Add the ingredients of Phase A to the vessel and heat to 80 – 85°C.• In a separate vessel, mix the ingredients of Phase B whilst heating to 80 – 85°C. When both

phases are at 80 – 85°C, add B to A whilst stirring.• Once homogenous, allow to cool to 50°C. When at 50°C, homogenise until white and smooth.

Return to the stirrer and allow to cool to 40°C.• Once below 40°C, add the rest of the ingredients in order, stirring well between additions.• Check pH and viscosity.

17

18

Korean Trends


Pore Perfecting Cushion Primer (MUP-2)

This solid cushion primer is formulated to glide across the skin and provide a smooth base for make-up. SeraSilk® PD 72 provides a smooth feel due to the presence of spherical elastomer powder, which also gives pore cover and oil absorption. SeraSoft® SW 70-E allows improved compatibility between silicone and organic ingredients. SeraSense® AC 16 helps to give a long-lasting effect.


Phase A -

Phenyl Trimethicone 3.00 SeraSense® SF PTM/KCC Beauty

Moisturising, Film Forming

Dimethicone (and) Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer

5.00 SeraSense® AC 16/KCC Beauty Dispersion Agent, Fixative

Beeswax 6.00 Seatons Beeswax/Seatons Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Modifier

Stearyl Dimethicone 6.00 SeraSoft® SW 70-E/KCC Beauty Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Modifier

Tribehenin 1.00 Syncrowax HRC/Croda Thickener

Titanium Dioxide (and) Silica (and) Alumina

5.00 Parsol TX/Adina (DSM) Pigment

Phase B


To 100

SeraSilk® PD 72/KCC Beauty Pore Cover, Smooth Feel

Phenoxyethanol 0.30 S&M Phenoxyethanol/Schülke Preservative

Parfum (Fragrance) q.s - Fragrance

Typical PropertiesAppearance: White, highly viscous creamViscosity @ 25°C: n/apH @ 25°C: n/a

Method• Mix the ingredients of Phase A at 70°C until homogenous.• In a separate vessel, mix the ingredients of Phase B until homogenous. Add Phase B to A

with stirring.• Pour into jars whilst still warm.

19

Guide FormulationColour Cosmetics

Ultra Shine Lip Gloss (CC-L-11)

Achieve even more shine in your cosmetic formulations by incorporating SeraSense® SF DDM, a phenyl-modified fluid with a higher refractive index than Phenyl Trimethicone. SeraSense® RB 22 is a resin blend and film former which will give longevity to any formulation.


Phase A

Diphenyl Dimethicone 3.60 SeraSense® SF DDM/KCC Beauty

Adds Gloss


14.40 SeraSense® RB 22/KCC Beauty Fixative

Stearyl Dimethicone (and) Octadecene

2.50 SeraSoft® SW 70-A/KCC Beauty

Emollient

Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil

3.50 Seatons Jojoba Oil/Seatons Emollient

Silica Dimethyl Silylate 0.50 Aerosil R972/Azelis (Evonik) Viscosity Modifier

Cetearyl Isononanoate 5.00 Cetiol SN/Cornelius (BASF) Emollient

Silica 1.00 Cabosil M5/Cabot Corp Viscosity Modifier

Phase B

Hydrogenated Polyisobutene (and) Ethylene/Propylene/Styrene Copolymer (and) Butylene/Ethylene/Styrene Copolymer

65.00 Versagel ME-1600/Azelis (Penreco)

Emollient

BHT 0.10 Various Anti-Oxidant

CI15850 2.30 C197711 Soft-Tex D&C Red 7 Ca Lake/Azelis (Sun Chemical)

Colourant

Phase C

CI77400 (Copper Powder) (and) Silica

0.50 Visionaire Lava/Aston Chemicals (Eckart)

Shimmer

Panthenol 0.40 DL Panthenol/Azelis (Protameen)

Skin Conditioning

Tocopheryl Acetate 0.60 Tocopheryl Acetate/A&E Connock

Emollient

Flavour q.s. - Taste

Typical PropertiesAppearance: Viscous, red liquidViscosity @ 25°C: 80000 – 100000cP (Brookfield Helipath, T Bar D, 12rpm)pH @ 25°C: n/a

Method• Mix the ingredients of Phase A in the main vessel, aside from the Cabosil. Heat to 75°C.• Once at temperature, add the Cabosil and homogenise until smooth.• Premix Phase B. Add to A and homogenise until a gel forms.• Return to the stirrer, and add Phase C, stirring slowly until the pigment is fully incorporated.

20

Guide FormulationColour Cosmetics

Pore Cover Mousse Foundation (CC-F-12)

This solid foundation has a soft cushion texture, so is easily applied to the skin. SeraSilk® PD 72 provides a smooth feel due to the presence of spherical elastomer powder, which also gives pore cover, oil absorption and a highly matte finish. SeraSoft® SW 70-E allows improved compatibility between silicone and organic ingredients. SeraSense® AC 16 helps to stabilise the pigment dispersion.

Raw Material/INCI Name % w/w

Trade name/Supplier

Function

Phase A

Phenyl Trimethicone 3.00 SeraSense® SF PTM/KCC Beauty

Moisturising, Film Forming, Radiance

Dimethicone (and) Acrylates/Dimethicone Copolymer

5.00 SeraSense® AC 16/KCC Beauty

Dispersion Agent, Fixative

Beeswax 3.00 Seatons Beeswax/Seatons

Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Modifier

Stearyl Dimethicone 5.00 SeraSoft® SW 70-E/KCC Beauty

Skin Conditioning, Viscosity Modifier

Iron Oxides (CI 77491) (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Tocopheryl Acetate

q.s. FAS65RTB/Aston Chemicals (Kobo)

Pigment


q.s. FAS70BTB/Aston Chemicals (Kobo)

Pigment

Titanium Dioxide (and) Cyclopentasiloxane (and) PEG/PPG-18/18 Dimethicone (and) Isopropyl Titanium Triisostearate (and) Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone (and) Disteardimonium Hectorite (and) Tocopheryl Acetate

q.s. FAS65UTB/Aston Chemicals (Kobo)

Pigment


q.s FAS50YTB/Aston Chemicals (Kobo)

Pigment

Titanium Dioxide (and) Silica (and) Alumina 5.00 Parsol TX/Adina (DSM)

Pigment

Phase B


To 100

SeraSilk® PD 72/KCC Beauty

Pore Cover, Smooth Feel

Phenoxyethanol 0.30 S&M Phenoxyethanol/Schülke

Preservative

Parfum (Fragrance) q.s - Fragrance

Typical PropertiesAppearance: Beige, solid creamViscosity @ 25°C: n/apH @ 25°C: n/a

Method• Mix the ingredients of Phase A at 70°C until homogenous.• In a separate vessel, mix the ingredients of Phase B until homogenous. Add Phase B to A

with stirring.• Pour into jars whilst still warm.

21

Korean Trends

Our speciality products deliver sensory excellence to haircare, skincare, and colour cosmetic formulations.

Please note that the formulations in this booklet are only intended as a guide. They are not commercial formulations and have not been tested as such. The formulations should be evaluated and modified for your own requirements before use. Also suggestions of uses should not be taken as inducements to infringe any particular patent.

Please contact us for more information.

KCC Beauty EMEA Office

Basildon Chemical Co. Ltd., Kimber Road, Abingdon, Oxfordshire, OX14 1RZ, UK

Tel: +44 (0) 1235 526677 Fax: +44 (0) 1235 524334 e-mail: [email protected]

KCC Beauty Asia Office

344, Sapyeong-daero, Seocho-gu, Seoul, Korea

Tel: +82 2 3480 5000 Fax: +82 2 3480 5436 e-mail: [email protected]

www.kcc-beauty.com

formulating the future...argan oil conditioner with serashine® em 801 (rc-15) introducing...

Documents