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  • US PATENT No. 7,101,538

    Formulating Clear ConditioningShampoo

  • Hair Cleansing: What are the market needs?

    Asian Hair Care: Evolving market, with 2-in-1 still the preferred form Clear, conditioning, silicone-free formulations Cost/benefit important for new consumer class

  • Hair Cleansing: What are the market needs?

    High-End Hair Care Focus on safety and sustainability,

    yet maintaining performance Consumers attracted to silicone-free, sulfate-free

    and quat-free claims

  • Other Requirements of Formulators

    Globally approved ingredients

    Cost targets

    Ease-of-use ingredients

    Compatibility with surfactants

    Ecological standards (sustainability, biodegradability)

  • Typical Formulation

    Function % (w/w)

    Cleansing and FoamingPrimary & Secondary Surfactants 10.0 30.0

    Texture and Sensorial FeelPearlescence Wax, Thickeners & Effect Pigments 0.1 - 6.0

    Conditioning AgentsCationic Additives, Oils, Polyquats,

    Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride0.1 - 5.0

    AuxiliariesPerfumes, Claim Actives 1.0 - 3.0

    Microbiological StabilityPreservatives 0.7 - 1.2

    Water Q.S. to 100.0

  • Desirable Claims and Functions

    Superior conditioning

    Increased shine and softness

    Improved sensorial experience during application

    Broad compatibility

    Mild and biodegradable

    Silicone-Free claims

  • Novel Active Polymer

    INCI Polyester-11

    Unique Chemical Structure polyesteramine

    Patented

  • Market examples

  • Hair Cleansing: What are the market needs?

    Conditioning Effect Wet and Dry Combing and Detangling

    Sensory Assessment during Application Lathering and Slip Foaming Degree and Stability

    Effect on Dry Hair Softness and Shine Manageability and Volume Build-up

  • Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

    Phase Ingredient (INCI) #624-091% (w/w)#624-090% (w/w)

    ADeionized Water 68.22 68.72

    Hydroxypropylmethyl Cellulose 0.50 0.50

    BSLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 70%) 7.86 7.86

    SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 30%) 16.67 16.67

    C Citric Acid (25%) Q.S. Q.S.

    DCocamidopropyl Betaine, 35% 3.50 3.50

    Polyester-11 0.50 0

    E Preservative 1.00 1.00

    F NaCl Salt 2.25 2.25

    Total 100.0

  • Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

    Sensory Assessment: During Application

    Polyester-11 improved overall sensory experience after application.

    -2

    -1

    0

    1

    2Distribution

    Flash Foam

    Foam VolumeFoam Stability

    Slip

    0.5% Polyester-11 Benchmark Control

  • Polyester-11 improved overall conditioning performance.

    * Chosen Benchmark is leading silicone-free China market brand for 2-in-1 shampoos.

    Control had no conditioning attributes.

    Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

    0

    5

    10

    15

    20

    25

    30

    Wet Combing Wet Detangling Dry Combing Dry Detangling

    % F

    orce

    Red

    uctio

    n

    0.5% Polyester-11 Benchmark*

  • Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

    Polyester-11 improved overall sensory experience during application.

    Sensory Assessment: Dry Hair

    -2

    -1

    0

    1

    2Silkiness

    Moisturization

    Shine

    Volume

    Manageability

    Overall Appearance

    0.5% Polyester-11 Benchmark Control

  • Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

    Treated Tress

    SEM of Tress Treated With Test Formulation vs. Control

    Polyester-11 tress had cuticles with flatter scales. This reduces friction when combing and holds in moisture for improved hair strength.

    Control

  • Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo

    Phase Ingredient (INCI) A% (w/w)B

    %(w/w)C

    %(w/w)

    ADeionized Water 68.52 68.52 68.52

    Hydroxypropylmethyl Cellulose 0.25 0.25 0.25

    BSLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 70%) 7.86 7.86 7.86

    SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 30%) 16.67 16.67 16.67

    C Citric Acid (10%) Q.S Q.S Q.S

    D

    Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 35% 3.50 3.50 3.50

    Polyester-11 0.20 - -

    Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride - 0.20 -

    Polyquaternium-10 - - 0.20

    E Preservative 1.00 1.00 1.00F NaCl Salt 2.00 2.00 2.00

    Total 100.0

    (#624-112)

  • Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo (#624-112)

    Polyester-11 is significantly clear compared to formulations containing commonly used conditioning agents.

  • Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo (#624-112)

    Polyester-11 provided a comparable conditioning effect on wet hair compared to current popular conditioning actives.

    Conditioning Assessment Wet Hair

    0

    5

    10

    15

    20

    25

    30

    Wet Combing Wet Detangling

    % F

    orce

    Red

    uctio

    n

    0.2% Polyester-11 0.2% Cationic Guar 0.2% PQ-10

  • Clear 2-in-1 Shampoo (#624-112)

    Polyester-11 surpassed Guar and PQ-10 in softness, shine and overall appearance of dry cleansed hair.

    Sensory Assessment Dry Hair

    0.00

    0.40

    0.80

    1.20

    Softness Shine Overall Appearance

    Sens

    ory

    Asse

    ssm

    ent

    0.2% Polyester-11 0.2% Cationic Guar 0.2% PQ-10

  • Silicone-Free Shampoo - build up evaluation Phase Ingredient (INCI) (w/w)%

    A67.72

    Hydroxypropylmethyl Cellulose 0.50

    BSLES (Sodium Laureth Sulfate, 70%) 7.86

    SLS (Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, 30%) 16.67

    C Q.S.

    D

    Cocamidopropyl Betaine, 35% 3.50

    2.00

    Glycol Distearate 1.00

    1.00

    E

    Polyester-11 0.50

    Guar Hydroxypropyltrimonium Chloride 0.20

    Polyquaternium-10 0.15

    FSodium Xylenesulfonate 1.50

    Neopentylglycol Diheptanoate (and) Isododecane 1.00

    G Preservative 1.00

    H NaCl Salt 2.20

    Total 100.00

    Silicone-free shampoo with Polyester-11

    (#624-118F)

    1INOLEX 2Tri-K 3Ashland 4Solvay Novecare 5Stepan 6AkzoNobel

  • Silicone-free formulations with Polyester-11 had no build-up on hair after repeat application.

    Build-up Evaluation

    Instrumentation Minolta Chroma Meter CR-300 with Data

    Procedure Immerse shampooed tresses into 200ml of

    0.1% solution of red 80 Dye for 60 seconds Take out tresses from solution and remove

    excess dye with #2 and #3 fingers Rinse the dyed hair in 300ml DI-water for

    10 seconds Hang hair tresses to dry overnight Read color index0.00

    0.10

    0.20

    0.30

    0.40

    0.50

    0.60

    0.70

    0.80

    0.90

    1.00

    dE

    0.460.38

    Col

    or In

    dex

    Cha

    nge

    of W

    ashe

    d H

    air

    1 Wash w/0.5% Polyester-11 5 Washes w/0.5% Polyester-11

    Silicone-Free Shampoo - build up evaluation (#624-118F)

  • INGREDIENTS (INCI Name) %w/w

    A Deionized Water 48.17

    BDecyl Glucoside 11.00

    Sodium Lauroyl Sarcosinate 11.00Disodium Laureth Sulfosuccinate 13.00

    CPEG-120 Methyl Glucose Dioleate 1.00

    PEG-150 Distearate 3.00

    D

    Cocamidopropyl Betaine 10.00

    Polyester-11 0.33

    Trimethylolpropane Tricaprylate/Tricaprate 0.67Caprylyl Glycol (and) Propanediol 1.50

    E Fragrance 0.33

    Total 100.00

    Sulfate-Free and Silicone-Free Clear Conditioning Shampoo (#638-120)

    Superior Performance

    Wet and Dry Combing and Detangling

    Lathering and Slip Foaming Degree and Stability

    Softness and Shine Manageability and Volume Build-up

  • Formulating Tips

    1. Choosing the right thickener.

    2. Use polyesteramine as a conditioning agent, either alone, or combined used with Guar, polyquats, etc. for the optimizing effect.

    3. When using oils or essential oils, mix well with polyesteramine before adding into the surfactant mixture.

    4. Polyesteramine will also help to bring fragrance into the formulation with improved clarity.

    5. Adjust the salt level after adding polyesteramineto optimize the viscosity of SLES/SLS or ALES/ALS system.

    6. Suggested use level of 0.1~2% for clear conditioning shampoo.

  • Summary: New Technology, Feel and Performance

    Superb performance in clear shampoos.

    Superior anti-static and combability performance.

    Benefits evident even at low active (0.2%) levels.

    Synergistic effects with other conditioning agents.

    Improves the performance of economy formulas.

    Easy to incorporate.

    Use level: 0.2 2%.

    Polyesteramine:

    Patented