for the ‘04 manitou sherman flick · for the ‘04 manitou sherman flick ... -ratchet...

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PICTORIAL SERVICE INSTRUCTIONS

for the

‘04 MANITOU SHERMAN FLICK® ©2005 EnduroForkSeals.com/Real World Cycling. All rights reserved.

-Plastic bucket/drain pan-2mm and 8mm Allen wrenches -7/16” or 11mm wrench -Flat-bladed screwdriver-Pocket screwdriver -24mm (15/16”) socket -Ratchet wrench-Adjustable fl at-jawed wrench-Torque wrench -Clean “lint-free” rags -5 wt. fork fl uid -Heavy Synthetic Grease -“Super-Slick Grease” or “PrepM”-Oil syringe (or other measuring device)

RECOMMENDED PARTS FOR SERVICING THE

MANITOU SHERMAN FLICK®

THESE INSTRUCTIONS ARE OPTIMIZED FOR

ENDURO FORK SEALS™

EnduroForkSeals.com

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TABLE OF CONTENTS

TOOLS REQUIRED ..................................................................1

SLIDER/LOWER ASSEMBLY, REMOVAL ............................3-6

SEAL REMOVAL ......................................................................7

SLIDER/LOWER ASSEMBLY, CLEANING ...........................8

ENDURO FORK SEALS™ INSTALLATION .........................9-13

RAPID TRAVEL II SERVICE..................................................14-19

DAMPER SERVICE/OIL CHANGE ......................................20-23

SLIDER/LOWER ASSEMBLY, RE-INSTALLATION ..........24-27

SPACER CONFIGURATION ....................................................24

SEMI-BATH OIL .......................................................................26

RAPID TRAVEL II SELECTOR KNOB ..................................28

ADJUSTING “SAG”...................................................................29

ADJUSTING “REBOUND”.......................................................30

ADJUSTING “COMPRESSION”...............................................31

“ON THE TRAIL”.......................................................................32

CARE OF YOUR ENDURO FORK SEALS™..........................33


©2005 EnduroForkSeals.com/Real World Cycling. All rights reserved.

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1) Adjust the travel to its longest setting (fully extended).

Rotate the lever on the left leg (from the rider’s perspective) as far as it will go toward the FRONT of the fork. If the fork was in the shorter travel mode, you will need to compress the fork so that it can “unlatch” and fully extend.

2) Remove the fi xing bolt from the bottom of the spring leg.

a) Invert the fork.

b) Use a 7/16” or 11mm wrench and turn counter-clockwise.

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3) Adjust the rebound knob mid-way and use the 2mm Allen wrench to remove the retaining screw.

Pull the rebound knob straight out toremove it.

4) Use the 8mm Allen wrench to wind the damper rod CLOCK-WISE into the lower leg.

Please note the inset and remember that the rod threads up INTO the lower casting. Do not try and wind it out, or damage will result.

HAVE A BUCKET READY BEFORE THE NEXT STEP!

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5) OVER A BUCKET OR OIL PAN, turn the fork back over, drain the semi-bath oil out of the lower assembly, and pull the low-er assembly off of the stanchions.

There are only 16cc’s of oil in each lower leg, so you can just pull the lowers off while the oil is draining if you wish.

6) Dont’ be surprised if you fi nd several pieces of hardware left inside the lowers...

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7) Use a metal rod, a wooden dowel, or whatever you have handy to push any spacers out of the lowers.

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8) Insert a fl at-bladed screw-driver under the back end of the seal/wiper.

Note that the shaft of the screwdriver is wrapped in tape to protect the fi nish of the fork.

9) Apply downward pressure on the screwdriver handle until the wiper/seal “pops” up and out.

Be careful not to scratch the metal at the back of the lowers while prying up the old wipers.

10) Remove the “foam ring” from the seal insertion area.

The foam rings will not be re-used. They will be replaced with a special “inner oil seal.”

REPEAT STEPS 8-10 FOR THE OTHER SIDE.

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11) If the lowers are particularly dirty, it’s time to move to the sink and use some biodegradable de-greaser.

Sometimes the semi-bath lube turns to “jelly” and needs to be cleaned out. (Our theory is that some of the semi-bath oil splashes up into the spring area and mixes with the grease that is used to lube the spring)

12) Chase the degreaser with a mixture of hot water and dish soap and a little brushing, if needed. RINSE well with hot water.

Using hot water not only cuts the grease, but heats up the lowers and causes them to dry quicker due to evaporations.

13) Thoroughly dry the lower legs.

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14) This is the BOTTOM of the inner oil seal. See the deep groove? IT FACES DOWN.

15) This is the TOP of the inner oil seal. See the word “ENDURO” and the numbers? THEY FACE UP.

You will notice that machined area at the top of the lowers is stepped. The area just above the bushings (where the inner oil seals will go) has a slightly smaller inside diameter than the area where the wipers will be seated.

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16) Use some Super-Slick Grease®, Prep-M® or other supsension compatible grease to lubricate the seal-insertion area of the lowers and the outside edge of the inner oil seal.

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17) Start the seal into the lower leg and use your thumbs to press it down evenly until flush with the top edge of the lower leg.

18) Use a large inverted socket and extention to carefully seat the inner oil seals in each leg.

Push very lightly, slowly increasing pres-sure until the seal begins to move. Once it starts sliding, it takes very little pressure to seat it against the bushing.

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19) This is the Enduro Wiper. Apply a thin coating of grease to the insertion area of the wiper.

20) Start the wiper into the in-sertion area of the lower leg. It should be easy to start, as the leading edge is slightly tapered.

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21) Use a large socket (or a piece of 1-1/2” PVC pipe to press the wipers in until no gap can be seen below the wiper “lip.” It’s fi ne to do a little gentle persua-tion with a rubber mallet, just be sure to put some padding at the other end of the lowers.

You are now fi nished servicing the lowers, and can temporarily set them aside.

Next up: Coil Spring/Rapid Travel II service.

NOTE: If you wish to only change the seals at this time, you may pro-ceed to Step 40 on Page 24

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23) Use a 20mm socket to loosen and remove the top cap.

22) Remove the Travel Selector Knob.

a) Be sure the indicator is fully for-ward in the long travel position.

b) Use a 2mm Allen wrench to loos-en the adjuster knob set screw.

c) Lift the adjuster knob straight off of the hex shaft.

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24) Remove the coil spring from the stanchion.

The coil spring pictured on the left is shown with the stock, or “medium” spring. Although it may appear to the human eye to be purple, be advised that this is “red.”

25) Use good-quality adjustable fl at jawed pliers or a wrench to loosen the compression rod end cap.

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When the Travel Adjust knob at the top of the fork is turned, it causes the spring to rotate. A plastic insert in the end of the spring, called the “Spring Foot” (pictured later) fits over this wire loop.

The rotation of the wire loop causes the extension of these “wings,” which “catch” the fork in the low travel position when extended. When it is time to re-install the Spring and the Compression Rod, remem-ber to ASSEMBLE THE FORK WITH THE “WINGS” RETRACTED (not ex-tended).

26) Pictured at left is the “Travel Adjust/ Compression Rod Assembly.”

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27) Apply a fresh coating of Red Devil Grease® to the coil spring, but go lightly on the bottom half of the spring.

The compression rod end cap does not actually seal against the rod, and some of the semi-bath oil splashes up into the coil spring area. If there is a lot of grease near the bottom of the spring, it will mix with the semi-bath oil and turn it into a “gel.”

28) Apply a small amount of “Blue” Loctite® to the end cap threads.

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29) Align the fl at spot of the plastic Spring Foot with the fl at bend of the spring and push it all the way into the spring.

30) Line up the wire loop at the top of the Travel Adjust/Com-pression Rod Assembly with the slot in the Spring Foot and fully insert it.

31) Now insert the entire Spring and Compression Rod assembly back into the stan-chion tube FROM THE BOTTOM.

32) Tighten the Compression Rod End Cap and wipe off any excess Loctite®.

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33) Re-install the Top Cap.

Check the condition of the Top Cap O-ring and be sure it is located in its proper place.

Lubricate the O-ring and threads with Super-Slick Grease®

Place the Top Cap over the “Spool” (the fi tting in the top of the spring) and begin threading it in by hand.

Torque the Top Cap to about 35 INCH POUNDS.

Next up: Damper Oil Change.

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34) Remove the TPC Cartridge.

Turn the Compression Damping Adjust-ment Knob to the mid-way position.

Use a 2mm Allen Wrench to remove the retaining screw.

Remove the Adjustment knob and use a 20mm socket to unwind the TPC Damping Assembly.

Carefully remove the TPC Damper from the fork, winding the piston O-ring past the threads at the top of the stanchion tube.

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36) Refi ll the oil.

Measure 125cc of fresh 5wt Suspension Fork Fluid and pour about half of it into the chamber.

Cover the top opening with a clean towel and work the damper rod up and down several times to be sure that the fl uid properly fi lls the damper and that all the air is worked out of the system. Continue the pro-cess of adding oil and working the damper until the entire 125cc of fork fl uid has been added.

35) Pour the damping oil into a suitable con-tainer.

Slowly pumping the damping rod will help to get most of the oil out.

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37) Verify the correct suspension fl uid height.

A simple method for accomplishing this is to use an oil syringe and a piece of plastic tubing. Starting from the bottom of the syringe body, measure 85mm out onto the plastic tubing. Mark the tubing cut it. Insert the syringe and tubing into the fork leg until the syringe body is resting against the crown. Remove it and look for fl uid on the end of the tubing. Remove it and look for fl uid on the end of the tubing. If the tubing did not contact fl uid, add fl uid until it is higher than the end of the tube.

Re-insert the syringe with the plunger fully com-pressed into the syringe body. Holding the syringe against the crown, pull the plunger up, removing the excess oil until only air is being pulled into the syringe. You are now at a level of 85mm.

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38) Re-install the TPC Damper Assembly and Adjuster Knob.

Apply a small amount of assembly grease to the threads at the top of the stanchion tube and carefully turn the TPC Damper clockwise as if threading it in. Once it clears the threads, the damper will drop into place and you can hand-tighten the “top cap” of the assembly.

Torque the damper assembly to about 35 Inch-pounds.

Re-install the Compression Adjuster Knob.

Next up: Lowers and Uppers re-joined.

Secure the retaining screw.

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40) Check the O-ring at the bottom of the damper rod.

If this O-ring has been damaged, it will result in oil leaking at the bottom of the fork leg. The clear fac-tory O-ring can be replaced with a standard rubber O-ring from the hardware store (take it in and match it up).

Lubricate the O-ring and threads at the bottom of the damper rod.

41) Replace the various bumbers and spacers on the rod ends. (Note that the same pieces are used, but not in the same confi guration.)

COMPRESSION RODDAMPER ROD

BOTTOM-OUT BUMPERS

FOAM SPACERS

PLASTIC SPACERS

METAL WASHER

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43) Install the lowers over the rods and onto the stanchion tubes. Be sure the reverse arch is facing the right way.

Carefully work one wiper over its respec-tive end cap, just barely started on the stanchion; then work the other wiper on to its stanchion.

When both sides are started, slide the lowers about halfway down (don’t let the stanchions enter the lower bushings yet).

42) Lubricate the inside of the new seals and wipers with Super-Slick Grease®.

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44) Inject about 16cc of semi-bath oil into each lower leg.

Manitou recommends Motorex® Semi-Bath 5/40w synthetic oil. Other brands of fully synthetic multi-viscosity oils are ac-ceptable.

45) Cover the lower casting holes with a clean towel (to prevent oil from being ejected) and push the lower assem-bly all the way onto the stan-chions.

46) Use the 8mm Allen wrench to wind the Rebound Damper Rod back into the lower leg casting.

Turn counter-clockwise as indicated in the inset picture.

Proper torque value is 10-30 inch pounds.

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47) Insert the Rebound Knob and tighten the set screw, using a 2mm Allen wrench.

Hold the knob to keep it from rotat-ing while tightening the screw.

TIP: If the threads of the Compression Rod are not visible through the casting hole in the lowers, cover the hole with a clean towel (to prevent oil from being ejected) and push the lower assembly in to meet the rod.

48) Insert and tighten the CompressionRod Fixing Bolt.

Inspect the O-ring and replace it if torn or distorted. Lu-bricate the O-ring and threads with Super-Slick Grease®. Recommended torque: 10-30 inch pounds.

Tighten the bolt with a 7/16” wrench.

Recommended torque: 10-30 inch pounds.

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49) Replace the Rapid Travel II Selector Knob.

With a 2mm Allen wrench, fasten the the knob in place with the set screw.

Orient the knob so that the “tang” is as far to the front of the fork as it will go.

50) Test the Rapid Travel II system.

With the indicator tang turned clock-wise (toward the front of the fork), the fork should remain in the “long travel” mode when compressed.

With the indicator tang turned counter-clockwise (toward the back of the fork), com-pressing the fork should cause the adjusting mechanism to engage, resulting in shorter travel.

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a) “SAG”

--Also known as “negative travel.” This al-lows your front wheel to track small dips in the terrain.

--For the type of riding the Sherman is de-signed for, a sag rate of about 30% of total available travel is recommended (with the Rapid Travel II in long travel mode).

--Install a cable tie around one of the stan-chion tubes and slide it down to the top of the wiper.

--Have someone support the bike while you sit on it in normal riding position, wearing your full riding gear, including hydraton pac, water bottles, etc.. Note: If you have a very aggressive riding style, you may want mea-sure sag while crouched over the bike in “at-tack” position.

--Carefully (so as not to cause further com-pression) get off the bike and measure how far the cable tie traveled. If the distance is signifi cantly less than 30% of total travel, you don’t have enough sag and will need to or-der a “softer” spring from the factory. If the distance traveled greatly exceeds 30% of total available travel, you have too much sag, and will need to order a “fi rmer” spring from the factory.

51) Make initial pre-ride adjustments.

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b) “REBOUND”

--Rebound damping slows down the extention of the fork following the compression stroke.

--Too little rebound damping allows the fork to extend forcefully, causing a “pogo” affect and loss of control following an impact.

--Too much rebound damping causes the fork to extend too slowly following an impact. Several impacts in a row can cause the fork to “pack up.” This is when the fork fails to extend fully before the being impacted subse-quent times. This can result in harsh bottom-ing as the fork runs out of available travel.

--Start with the rebound backed all the way out (fully CCW= no rebound damping).

--Turn the rebound knob CW in small incre-ments, stopping to compress the fork each time. You are at a good starting point when you can barely detect the rebound damping “taking the edge off” of the otherwise rapid extension of the fork.

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c) “COMPRESSION”

--Restricts oil fl ow during compression, slow-ing down the compressions stroke. The effect of the compression damping is usually subtle.

--Sometimes misused in an attempt to com-pensate for too soft of a spring. Never use compression damping to correct a “sag” problem.

--Start with the compression damping off (knob wound CCW). If you are experiencing “brake dive” problems or blowing through the travel too quickly, add compression damping by turning the Compression Damping Adjust-er Knob clockwise.

--Don’t expect dramatic results from this adjustment.

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HEAD TO THE TRAIL!

-Allow a few hours of riding for your new seals to “bed-in” (for the sealing edge of the oil seal to “mate” with the stanchion surface).

--Be sure and follow the instructions for proper lubrication of the wiper/stanchion interface (next page). This is crucial for stic-tion free riding and longevity of the seals. It is particularly important in muddy environ-ments.

--Your tire is the first part of your bike to make contact with any bumps. An overly inflated tire can result in poor “small-bump compliance” and loss of control, despite proper fork setup.

--Although you have made preliminary adjustments to your fork, riding in the real world will require you to make some changes. It’s best to make small, incremen-tal adjustments so that you can be sure the fork response and bike handling are actually improving.



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PROPER CARE OF YOUR

ENDURO FORK SEALS™

For performance and longevity, it is important to keep the stanchion tubes and top edges of the wipers clean and lubed. (Note the dust ring on top of the wiper.)

Use a soft, clean cloth (or a soft brush) to carefully clean the stanchion tubes and wipers.

Drizzle some Stanchion Lube™ onto the clean stanchion tubes and allow it so settle on the tops of the wipers.

Compress the fork a few times. Using a soft cloth, work the excess Stanchion Lube™ into the upper legs. Repeat until no residue remains.

Stanchion Lube™ byFinish Line®

for the ‘04 manitou sherman flick · for the ‘04 manitou sherman flick ... -ratchet...

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