Following Fryderyk Chopin’s footsteps in Wielkopolska

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Following Fryderyk Chopin’s footsteps in Wielkopolska

There are few remaining traces of Fryderyk Chopin in Wielkopolska. In fact, we do not know exactly how many times he visited the region. In the places where traditions relat�ed to Chopin have survived, they are cultivated and continue to develop. Yet it also happens, like in Strzyżew, that there are no material trac�es left which would provide grounds for keep�ing up these traditions. In some other situa�tions – like in the case of the famous concert in Poznań, which actually never happened – the cult becomes a legend and by public conscious�ness is perceived as a fact. Chopin used to visit Wielkopolska during the first twenty years of his life, while still in Poland – that is in that important period when his personality and sensitivity were de�veloping. His visits to this area, particularly to Antonin, were reflected in his works; we could mention here the Polonaise in C major, Op. 3, or the famous horn motif in the third part of the Piano Concerto in F minor. However, there is one thing that tends to be overlooked when we speak about the still uncertain links between Fryderyk and Wielkopolska. Indeed, it was Poznań and Wielkopolska which played a significant part

in promoting his work. As early as 1825, when Chopin was only 15 years old, first remarks on a young remarkably talented musician from Warsaw and his performances started appear�ing in the printed media of the Grand Duchy of Poznań. In 1836, three consecutive issues of Przyjaciel �udu �agazine, published in �esz� �udu �agazine, published in �esz�no, printed an extremely accurate assessment of Chopin’s work, which was the first one in Po�land. Its author, Antoni Woykowski, a publish�er and musician, wrote: In recent times Poland has given a musical genius to the world that is unparalleled and may remain unequalled for a long time. It is Chopin! We can make the bold statement that no nation can boast having such a great, truly national composer!” There is one more noteworthy fact. It was in Poznań in 1873 that the first Polish book about the genius from Żelazowa Wola ap�peared. The book entitled “Fryderyk Chopin i utwory jego muzyczne”, (title of its English translation: Fryderyk Chopin and His �usical Works) by �arceli Antoni Szulc was published by the Bookshop of Jan Konstanty Żupański. One should remember about these facts while taking a tour of Wielkopolska following Fry�deryk Chopin’s footsteps.

Museum of Musical Instruments in Poznań,photo: Z. Schmidt

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Poznań

I am doing fine, and have seen what�ever could be seen. I’m going back to see you. On Monday (that is a week from the day af�ter tomorrow) I will give you a hug. The easy time serves me well. I do nothing but go to the theatre. (....) But it’s time to go to bed, because tomorrow early in the morning we have to be at the post office. We will stay

for two days in Poznań, because Archbishop Wolicki has invited us for dinner. There will be so much to talk about when we meet! I will see you soon…

Berlin, Saturday 27 September 1828, in a let�ter to his parents

On two occasions Chopin visited Poznań not in connection with music but thanks to... a “congress of naturalists” which took place in Berlin in the autumn of 1828. He was invited on the trip by Professor Fe�liks Paweł Jarocki, a Chopin family friend and a zoologist from Warsaw who partici�pated in the Berlin gathering of natural sci�entists. This way young Fryderyk got the first opportunity to see the Capital of Prus�sia. Jarocki and Chopin arrived in Poznań on 12 September 1828. They had to

wait for two hours for the departure of the stagecoach to Berlin, and they spent the time very effectively since they had a special mission to fulfill. In order to do

so, they visited Ostrów Tumski (Cathedral Island) where they met Archbishop Teo�fil Wolicki and handed him a parcel from Julian Ursyn Niemcewicz. The parcel con�tained documents necessary for bringing the

mortal remains of Bishop Ignacy Krasicki from Berlin to Gniezno. �ediation concern�ing that matter was derived to Poznań Arch�bishop, Teofil Wolicki, with whom Fryderyk Chopin had family ties via his godmother, Anna Wiesiołowska (née Skarbek). During their brief visit to the Cathedral Island Arch�bishop Wolicki invited Professor Jarocki and his companion for dinner on their on their way back. The fact was mentioned by Cho�pin in his letter which he sent from Berlin to his parents. So, it is assumed that due to the Archbishop’s invitation for dinner Chopin spent a few days in Poznań on his way from Berlin to Warsaw. Jarocki and Chopin started on their journey from the capital of Prussia to Warsaw on the morning of 28 September 1828. They reached Poznań about 1 p.m. on 30 September. Because the next stagecoach to Warsaw was leaving three days later, on 3 October at 3 p.m., they had a lot of time on their hands to see the town and visit their acquaintances. They probably were hosted at the Archbishop’s Palace on the Cathedral Island, where they dined with Archbishop Teofil Wolicki. What did they do in Poznań while waiting for the departure? We do not know. They may have been to the city theatre; per�

haps they also visited their acquaintances, such as Jan �otte, a biology teacher at St. �ary �agdalene Gymnasium, who was highly esteemed in Poznań at that time. We do not know where they stayed, yet we may assume it was in the Saski, the most popular hotel at Wrocławska Street. In spite of the strong belief fuelling the nearly two hundred years old tradition, Chopin did not perform in Poznań, unless it happened at the Archbishop’s palace during the dinner party. Yet, absolutely no referenc�es to such event have survived. �oreover, it is certain that young Chopin did not play in the Governor’s Palace, currently the City Hall, even though such information can still be found on the plaque which was placed on its front wall in 1960. The surviving sources and correspondence leave no doubts that the Governor of the Grand Duchy of Poznań, Duke Antoni Radziwiłł was away from Poznań at the time of Chopin’s visit. The Radziwiłł family were staying at the time in their summer residence in Ruhberg (Polish name: Ciszyca, near Kowary). The same legend was an inspira�tion for the painting by Henryk Siemiradzki, depicting Fryderyk Chopin performing a concert in the guest hall of Duke Antoni Radziwiłł. Although it was created only

F. Chopin Park in Poznań,photo: Z. Schmidt

Concert in the White Room of Poznań City Hall,photo: Z. Schmidt

Archbishop’s palace in Poznań,photo: Z. Schmidt

Interior of Archbishop’s palace in Poznań,photo: Z. Schmidt

Bust of Chopin in the park named after him,photo: Z. Schmidt

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in 1887, and had been ordered by Karol Kozłowski, a bookshop keeper and publish�er from Poznań, over time the image became recognized as an artistic vision of an actual event. By its author entitled “Chopin’s concert at Radziwiłł’s place in Berlin in 1829” the painting lacked historical ground�ing, both in terms of the date (Chopin visited Berlin in 1828), and the place – the artist never performed in the Radziwiłł Pal�ace at Wilhelmstrasse in Berlin. Over time a slightly changed title was adopted: “Fry�deryk Chopin in the salon of Duke Antoni Radziwiłł (year 1829)”, suggesting that the event could have happened in the guest hall in Poznań. Still, the date remains incorrect. Reproductions of the painting quickly be�came widespread and contributed to keep�ing up the legend. There were other events linking

Chopin with Poznań. It was here that a week after the composer’s death, on 25 October 1849 the local paper Dziennik Poznański published his first obituary written by Cyprian Kamil Norwid. Similarly, the first Polish biography of the artist was published in Poznań. The book entitled „Fryderyk Chopin i jego utwory muzyczne”, (title of its English translation: Fryderyk Chopin and His �usical Works) by �arceli Antoni Szulc was published in 1873, by the renowned Bookshop of Jan Konstanty Żupański. Fryderyk Chopin is commemo�rated in many places in Poznań. The most significant is the White Room of Poznań City Hall, which is assumed to have held the legendary concert in 1828. A Chopin bust sculpted by �arcin Rożek is a reminder of the event. Its copy can also be seen in Cho�pin Park, behind the former Jesuit College. Additionally, two plaques devoted to Cho�

pin and his alleged concert in 1828 were placed on the City Hall façade. The �useum of �usical Instru�ments in the Old Town Square holds the Chopin’s Room featuring artefacts related to the composer. We can see here for example. a grand piano from ca. 1820 which used to stand in the palace in Antonin and Chopin probably played it during his visits at Duke Antoni Radziwiłł’s place. Besides that also on display here are the artist’s portraits, rep�licas of his hand cast and his death mask, as well as a copy of the famous painting by Henryk Siemiradzki depicting Fryderyk Chopin playing in the guest hall of Duke Antoni Radziwiłł. We can also see a wooden model of Fryderyk Chopin statue, designed by Wacław Szymanowski, which was built in the Łazienki Park in Warsaw. In the vicinity of the Grand Theatre (Teatr Wielki) there is a street named after Fryderyk Chopin, and in the courtyard of the Poznań Society of Friends of �earning at �ielżyńskiego Street a plaque commemo�rating the 100th anniversary of the compos�er’s birth was unveiled in 1910. The original plaque (destroyed during World War II by the Nazis) was a work of Władysław �ar�cinkowski – the present one is a replica. While taking a walk following Chopin’s footsteps around Poznań one should visit the Cemetery of Distinguished Wielkopolska Residents on St. Adalbert’s Hill (Wzgórze św. Wojciecha), which holds the grave of Fryderyk’s would�be mother in law, Teresa Wodzińska (née Wodzińska), mother of the artist’s muse �aria, who was also a great love of Juliusz Słowacki. Chopin met �aria Wodzińska in 1835 in Dresden, where he proposed to her a year later. He was 26 and she was 16. �aria’s family ini�tially agreed to the marriage, yet later after hearing of Chopin’s illness, they backed out. This decision was never officially stated but they set such conditions for the pianist that the relationship disintegrated by itself . In

White Room of Poznań City Hallphoto: P. Skórnicki

Plaque commemorating the composer’s birth centenary, photo. Z. Schmidt

Chopin’s parlour in Antonin palace,photo: Z. Schmidt

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spite of this, Chopin retained good relations with his would�be mother in law. We can conclude our tour of Cho�pin’s traces in Poznań by visiting the Ca�thedral Island (Ostrów Tumski), and the Archbishop’s Palace. It was there that Arch�bishop Teofil Wolicki hosted Chopin for a dinner party. Archbishop Wolicki died in December 1829 and was buried in the vault of Poznań Cathedral. An epitaph devoted to him was placed in the chapel of St. Cecilia.

Route: ul. Chopina – the courtyard of Poznań Society of Friends of �earning(ul. �ielżyńskiego) – building of the former Saski Hotel (ul. Wrocławska) – Chopin Park – Poznań City Hall (Plac Kolegiacki) – �u�seum of �usical Instruments (Stary Rynek) � Cemetery of Distinguished Wielkopolska Residents (Wzgórze św. Wojciecha) � Cathe�Wojciecha) � Cathe�) � Cathe�dral Island (Ostrów Tumski)

Żychlin

And I, on the way back, was at the wedding reception of Miss Melasia Bronikow�Bronikow�ska; a lovely young girl, she wed Kurnatowski. You were often mentioned and she is sending her regards. Her cousin of the same age a few days earlier also got married – she is even a more beautiful child – and they looked sweet in their wedding clothes....

Warsaw, 12 September 1829, in a letter to Tytus Woyciechowski

It was by chance that Chopin found his way to Żychlin, in the vicinity of Konin. During his return journey to Warsaw from a longer trip, during which he played two excellent concerts in Vienna, he stopped in Kalisz. The young musician was traveling with two friends – a student of medicine,

Alfons Brandt and a lawyer Ignacy �acie�jowski. While in Kalisz, the young men de�cided to pay a visit to doctor Adam Helbich. The physician, who was just setting off to go to �r and �rs Bronikowski in Żychlin for the wedding reception of their daughter, �elania, decided to take the unexpected visitors with him. The composer had met “lovely �elasia”, mentioned in the letter to his friend Tytus Woyciechowski, some time earlier in Warsaw. And although the guests did not come in time for the wedding cer�emony of �elania and Wiktor Adam, (they arrived in the evening and the ceremony had been held at noon on 2 September 1829) still they enjoyed themselves greatly at the recep�tion, which was a joint celebration for the young couple of �r. and �rs. Kurnatowski and �elania’s cousin Aniela née Kurnatow�Kurnatow�ska and Wojciech Gałczyński who had got married a week earlier (on 25 August 1829 in the Roman Catholic church in the village of Charłupie) – all that was reported in Fry�deryk’s letter to Tytus.

Cathedral in Poznań,photo: Z. Schmidt

The party in Żychlin continued for three days and when the time came for the guests to depart towards their various desti�nations, still one more game was played. Dr. Adam Helbich described it in his memoirs in this way: From 11 in the morning horses and carts were ready to go, but has it ever happened before that guests departed from a hospitable house without first having break�fast? So the horses had to wait. 12 o’clock came and the guests gathered in the hall. Next door, in the dining room, while wait�ing for the tables to be laid, lively discussions were going on. Suddenly someone suggest�ed that “in order to conclude the fun time we should play a party game, and because we are leaving in different directions, let’s play a traveller”. So, names of towns were distributed and everyone was watchful to stand up at the right moment; in spite of that there were some penalties. When it was �r. Henryk’s turn to redeem his forfeit one of the ladies asked him to perform a deed that

Church in Żychlin,photo: Z. Schmidt

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Bronikowska. Born: 16 July 1811; Deceased: 31 Oct. 1834.” The first, wooden, Calvinist church was built in Żychlin before 1610. The current structure erected in 1821�22 is a classicist building with a two�column portico within its façade. The interior is very modest and features distinctive matroneum galleries. In the vicinity of the church there are other Calvinist buildings – a classicist rectory and an 18th century wooden belfry. Addition�ally, the church grounds hold a lapidarium with tombstones from closed or abandoned Calvinist cemeteries throughout Poland. The Calivinist parish in Żychlin has oper�ated for 400 years without interruption. Chopin is also remembered by the palace of the Bronikowski family. Built in the 1820s, it has a rectangular floor plan, a front porch and a hip roof. The palace is sur�

rounded by a park with monumental trees. Today it houses a School of Catering and Economics, which in 2005 was named after Fryderyk Chopin. A memorial plaque can be seen on the building wall. Its inscription says: “This place hosted a visit of Fryderyk Chopin during the first days of September 1829”. In 2010, on the 200th anniversary of the composer’s birth, A Chopin monument sculpted by �arcin �ielczarek was placed in front of the building.

Kalisz

In Kalisz, on my way back, I was at a party where I saw Mrs. Łączyńska and Miss Biernacka. The latter lured me to dance; I also had to dance “mazur” with an even more charming maiden than herself, or at least equally charming, that is Miss Paulina Niesz�

would please everyone present. He thought for a while and ran out. Soon, he came back carrying an ivy twig tied with ribbon, and after putting it around Fryderyk’s head he said: “I’m adorning talent and virtue”. That was met with a long�lasting and constantly recurring ripple of applause. Tears rolled down Fryderyk’s face, and apparently there was no one with dry eyes in the whole gath�ering. In this way Henryk Unrug, a land�owner, paid tribute to the pianist’s talent, and once again recalled an event which he had already reported to other guests. Three years earlier Henryk had witnessed a con�cert performed in Duszniki Zdrój (at the time called Bad Reinerz) by 16�year�old Fryderyk. The latter designated the proceed�ings from the concert for a few orphaned children whose father had suddenly died in that health resort.

The memory of the great composer is still kept up in Żychlin. In 2002 The Fry�deryk Chopin Society was established here and it continues to actively promote knowl�edge about Chopin and his music, by means of concerts, festivals and even plain�air workshops. Since 2004 the village has an�nually hosted the National Pianist Festival entitled “Young Artists’ Interpretations of Chopin”. Some places which Chopin visited in 1829 have survived to the present. We can still see the Calvinist church in which �elania Bronikowska and Wiktor Adam Kurnatowski had their wedding ceremony in 1829. The church also holds the epitaph for �elasia who died only five years after the wedding. The inscription says: “Wiktor Kurnatowski deposited here the heart of his deceased wife, �elania Kurnatowska, née

Palace in Żychlin,photo: Z. Schmidt

The house at the corner of Główny Rynek and Zamkowa St.dates from the interwar period,photo: Z. Schmidt

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kowska who does not want General Mycielski and he is stubbornly making advances to her. Miss Biernacka talked a lot to me about you and your Brother, and one could see she had sweet memories of that winter which she had spent in Warsaw. I talked with her all evening, or should I say, had to ask and answer ques�tions; never before did I find her as agreeable as then, especially when she was talking about the sweetness of Mr. Karol’s character. I’m not joking I told her you would find out about the party, and I would make a complaint to you that she seduced me to dance, but she didn’t seem to be afraid of you. I met her father – he has land in Sulisławice near Antonin. Among other things, it was worth being there to see Jaxa Marcinkowski dancing ceaselessly in his muddy shoes. I spent only one day in Kalisz...

Warsaw, 14 November 1829 in a letter to Ty�tus Woyciechowski

How many times did Fryderyk Chopin visit Kalisz? According to Henryk F. Nowaczyk, untiring researcher of the composer’s traces in Wielkopolska, Chopin passed through this area at least six times. This is the number of times he has managed to confirm with documents. The composer was in the town on the Prosna river in late July and then in mid September 1826, on his way to Duszniki Zdrój (at the time called Bad Reinerz), and during his return journey. He certainly was here on 2 September 1829, on his way from Vienna, when he and his companions � a stu�dent of medicine, Alfons Brandt and a law�yer Ignacy �aciejowski were unexpectedly taken by doctor Adam Helbich to Żychlin, to the wedding reception of �elania Broni�Broni�kowska and Wojciech Kurnatowski. Chopin must have also visited Ka�lisz on 21�22 October and 7 November 1829

during his trip to Strzyżew and Antonin. He stopped here for the last time when he was leaving Poland – on the evening of 3 No�vember 1830 and stayed until 5 November 1830. On that occasion he was hosted by his friend, Doctor Adam Helbich. It is as�sumed that on 4 November, he played at the doctor’s house for his friends. Yet, he could not be persuaded to play a public concert. Next, on 5 November, joined by Tytus Woy�ciechowski, he left towards Wrocław. On his way he stopped by in Antonin, but the Radziwiłł family were not there. Did he also go to Strzyżew, to say goodbye to his god�mother before leaving the country? We do not know. Kalisz was the last Polish town in which the composer stayed before leaving Poland forever. In Kalisz there is a street named after Chopin. At the meeting point of the �ain Town Square (Główny Rynek) and Zamkowa Street (in the 1820s it was called Warszawska) was the townhouse where the artist danced with �iss Paulina Nieszkows�ka, mentioned extensively in the letter to his friend Tytus Woyciechowski. That building is no longer there – its location is occupied by a house built during the interwar period. Fryderyk Chopin’s visits to Kalisz are com�memorated by a bas�relief by Wiesław An�drzej Oźmina placed on that house. On the other hand, at Zamkowa Street there still is a post office – the same lo�cation used to hold the so�called „pocztamt”, and all stagecoaches carrying passengers to Kalisz or departing towards other destina�tions would stop there. Chopin, going to or from Warsaw, also travelled by such stage�coaches...

Antonin

Of all places in Wielkopolska, An�tonin is the most closely linked with Fry�deryk Chopin. Similarly, his visits to the hunters’ palace owned by Duke Antoni

Theatre in Kalisz,photo: Archive of the Town Hall, M. Hertmann

Basilica in Kalisz,photo: Z. Schmidt

Bas�relief commemorating Chopin’s stay in Kalisz,photo: Z. Schmidt

Województwo

Pomorskie

Województwo

Zachodniopomorskie

Województwo

Lubuskie

Województwo

Opolskie

Województwo

Kujaw

sko-Pomorskie

GNIEZNO

KALISZ

LESZNO

ANTONIN

OSTRÓW

WLKP.

KONIN

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Radziwiłł, the Governor of the Grand Duchy of Poznań are best publicized. The musician and the Duke met in 1825 in Warsaw in the guest hall of Duch�ess �udwika Czetwertyńska. On that oc�casion the Duke was greatly impressed by young Chopin’s performance, even more so because he himself wrote music and played cello. Therefore, he was very kind to the pia�nist and invited him to his places in Berlin or in Wielkopolska. Duke Radziwiłł had two places of residence in Wielkopolska, one in Poznań – in the Governor’s Palace occupying build�ings formerly housing a Jesuit College (and currently Poznań Town Hall at Kolegiacki Square), and the other in the village of Szpe�Szpe�rek in the proximity of Ostrów Wielkopol� in the proximity of Ostrów Wielkopol�ski, later named Antonin, after the Duke. It was in Antonin or in Ruhberg, otherwise known as Ciszyca, near Kowary in �ower Silesia that the Duke spent most of his time. The hunters’ palace in Antonin was built for him by the most remarkable archi�tect of German romanticism, Karl Friedrich Schinkel. The four storey building was erect�ed in 1822–1824, and featured a unique floor plan resembling the Greek cross. Although it was mainly built of larch wood, it also contains many brick elements: a part of the staircase, the chimney, and cellars; besides that the wooden perimeter walls are infilled with bricks. The most amazing feature of the palace is the main hall which is three�storeys high and its decorative ceiling is supported on one “chimney” column, embellished with three rings of deer heads. The balconies sur�rounding the palace interior on the first and second floor lead directly to rooms. The pal�ace is surrounded with a landscaped park in which we can see the Swiss�style house of Wilhelm, Duke Antoni’s son, as well as the Radziwiłł family mausoleum�chapel. These were both also designed by Karl Friedrich Schinkel. This charming palace, amidst the

once dense Przygodzice forest, used to be an oasis of family life and tranquillity for the Duke Governor and those closest to him; it was also eagerly visited by the Duke’s guest. One of these was Fryderyk Chopin. The number of his visits to Antonin is still uncertain and disputable. The most frequently quoted dates are: 1826 and 1829, or 1827 and 1829. Source materials provide evidence for a few visits paid by Chopin and his family to Antonin in 1826 and 1829. On 1 or 2 August 1826 the young artist passed through Antonin on his way to Duszniki Zdrój (Bad Reinerz), but he stayed in the palace only on his return journey, around 15 September. During this short visit, the well�known image of Chopin sitting at the grand piano was drawn by Princess Eliza Radziwiłł. 3 years later, in August of 1829, Chopin’s parents stopped by the Antonin palace, but it is unclear if Fryderyk was there with them. It is certain that he visited Antonin on the night of 5 November 1830, on the way from Kalisz to Wrocław, when he was leaving his native land forever. Yet, he did not meet the Radziwiłł family as they were still away in Ciszyca near Kowary. However, the best known is that “week in Antonin” (in fact – 10 days) which he spent there in the autumn of 1829, in late October and early November.

I spent a week there, and you wouldn’t believe how happy I was at his place. I came back with the last post, but I barely managed to ex�cuse myself from a longer stay. As for me and a chance to have a bit of fun, I would have stayed until they had driven me away except for my “interessa”; especially my Concert [F�minor, op. 21] � still unfinished and impa�tiently waiting for the end of its finale – made me hurry and leave this paradise..

Warsaw, 14 November 1829, in a letter to Ty�tus Woyciechowski

But even this visit of the composer in Antonin is a matter of dispute concern�ing its exact dates. Some claim it was from 26 October to 4 November 1829, others say that on 26 October Chopin as well as Anna and Stefan Wiesiołowski paid a courtesy call to the Radziwiłł family and then returned to Strzyżew; he returned to Antonin on 30 or 31 October and stayed there until 7 Novem�ber, then he left directly for Warsaw with�out stopping in Strzyżew. Some surviving letters provide evidence for the latter dates. Princess Eliza in her letter dated 29 October 1829 to Klaudyna Potocka (née Działyńska) does not mention Chopin at all, even though she does write about other guests staying in Antonin at that time. On the other hand,

Palace in Antonin,photo: Z. Schmidt

Palace in Antonin,photo: Z. Schmidt

One of the paintings in Antonin palace,photo: Z. Schmidt

Palace in Antonin,photo: Z. Schmidt

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Chopin in his letter to Tytus Woyciechow�Woyciechow�ski does not mention the Princess’ birthday which was on 28 October, or the visit paid in Antonin by Archbishop Teofil Wolicki on the same day, even though he does describe his stay there in detail. It is certain that Chopin left War�saw to go to the Poznań area on 20 October 1829, and two days later arrived in Strzyżew, to meet his godmother, Anna Wiesiołowska (née Skarbek). Upon receiving news of the Radziwiłłs’ return from Ciszyca to Antonin, on �onday, 26 October, Chopin visited An�tonin accompanied by his godmother and her husband. Chopin was hesitant to go to An�tonin, but did so yielding to his father’s persuasion – the latter was hoping Duke Radziwiłł would provide support for Fry�deryk’s career. The hospitality and kindness which he encountered there was a pleasant surprise for him.

There were two girls named Eva there, young princesses, extremely polite and kind, mu�sically�minded and of gentle heart. The old Duchess herself knows that it is not the lineage that makes a man, and her manners in han�dling others are so endearing that one cannot help but like her...

Warsaw, 14 November 1829, in a letter to Ty�tus Woyciechowski

Upon his return to Warsaw he wrote letters to his friends sharing enthusia�stic comments related to the hospitality of the Duke and his wife, as well as the prin�cesses; he mentioned the fact that he and Antoni Radziwiłł played music together and that the passion for music brought them closer. Indeed, the host was a talented cel�list and he wrote music for Faust by Johann Wolfgang von Goethe.

You know how much he likes music; he showed me his Faust and I found many things so well�designed, brilliant even, that I would have never expected that from the Governor (...)

Warsaw, 14 November 1829, in a letter to Ty�tus Woyciechowski

This musical atmosphere of the hunters’ palace had impact on Chopin’s work, as well. The famous horn motif in the third part of his Piano Concerto in F�minor was inspired by his stay in Antonin. Chopin encountered the sound of horns while hunt�ing in Radziwiłł estate near Antonin – he in fact took part in a hunt, with a rifle in his hand. While in Antonin he continued work�ing on Trio in G minor, op. 8, which he had started a year earlier, and finally dedicated it to Duke Antoni Radziwiłł. Polonaise in C major for piano and cello was also written there – the composer himself treated this piece of music a bit humorously.

I wrote ‘Alla polacca with cello’ at his place. There is nothing in it except for glitter, for guest rooms and ladies; you see, I wanted Princess Wanda to learn it. I gave her some lessons during this time. A young thing she is, 17 only, and lovely – my goodness it was a pleasure to arrange her little fingers (. But putting jokes aside, she does have a lot of mu�sical intuition, so you don’t need to remind her: and here ‘crescendo’, and there ‘piano’, make it faster or slower, etc.

Warsaw, 14 November 1829, in a letter to Ty�tus Woyciechowski

This description as well as the musical piece itself allows for an assump�tion that Princess Wanda must have been quite talented and skilled in music. On the other hand, her sister, Eliza, was more en�thralled with Polonaise in F�minor, Op. 71,

No. 3 written by Chopin in 1825–26, and she wanted to hear it all the time. Possibly the melancholy of this tune was better suited to her mood. Chopin visited Antonin only a few months after the wedding of the Prus�sian crown prince Wilhelm with Augusta of Saxe�Weimar. After all, at that time the love between Wilhelm and Eliza was the talk of all Europe. Yet, Prussian political elites hampered their marriage. Wilhelm yielded to his father’s wish and married Augusta in June 1829. Can anyone blame Eliza that four months after this event she preferred music matching her emotional experiences?

I couldn’t refuse I would send them my Polo�naise in F�minor, which Princess Eliza has found so pleasing. Send it to me by the earliest post, please, because I don’t want to be con�sidered rude, and I don’t want to write it from

Chopin’s parlour in Antonin palace,photo: Z. Schmidt

Chopin’s portrait by George Sand,photo: P. Skórnicki

1918

memory, my dear, as I might write something slightly different than it really is. You can im�agine the character of this Princess – I had to play this Polonaise to her each day, and she didn’t like anything as much as this Trio in A�flat major. They are all so good there.

Warsaw, 14 November 1829, in a letter to Ty�tus Woyciechowski

It was also in the Antonin palace that Chopin wrote exercise pieces for piano, originally designed for both Radziwiłł Prin�cesses, and today known as four Études from Op. 10 – later Chopin dedicated all twelve études from this Opus to Franz �iszt. And on 4 November Eliza Radziwiłł sketched in her album the composer’s profile which has survived to the present.

You wanted my portrait – had I been able to steal one from Princess Eliza, I would have sent it to you; she drew me in her album twice, and from what people said, the resemblance was good.

Warsaw, 14 November 1829, in a letter to Ty�tus Woyciechowski

If we assume the first set of dates for Chopin’s stay in Antonin is correct, he would have left the place on Thursday, 5 November 1829 around noon. He went to Strzyżew, and then returned to Warsaw. Otherwise, the composer left the hospitable Antonin on Saturday, 7 November and pro�ceeded straight to Warsaw. One thing is cer�tain in both cases – on 10 November he was

back at home. He never met the hospitable master of Antonin Palace again... But he re�membered him with sentiment. In spring of 1840, Chopin’s student in Paris � Friederike �üller wrote this in her journal: „After fin�ishing Trio he said to me: how vividly I can remember the days when I wrote this! It was near Poznań, in the castle of Duke Radziwiłł surrounded with a great forest, in a small but select company. In the morning we would go hunting and in the evening we enjoyed mu�sic.....”

Today Antonin honours the mem�ory of Chopin in many ways. Inside the pal�ace, in the music room devoted to him we can see the artist’s portraits on the walls, there are his bust, replicas of his hand cast and his death mask. There is also an instru�ment from Chopin’s times – a grand piano manufactured by Buchholtz company. In front of the entrance the composer’s bust by

�arian Owczarski was placed in 1979. In the course of its history the pal�ace of the Radziwiłł family faced changing fortunes – it was saved from ruin in the pe�riod following World War II by the efforts of music activists from Ostrów and Jerzy Waldorff (a music journalist). Today it is ad�ministered by the Culture and Art Centre in Kalisz. It houses a hotel and restaurant. But the place is best known for music events, including the most renowned international festival “Chopin in the colours of autumn”.

Strzyżew

I’m leaving today at 7 in the evening, by stagecoach to the Wiesiołowski family in the Poznań area, that is why I’m writing earlier, mainly because I do not know how long I will stay there – but I’ve taken the passport only for a month. I’m intending to return in two

Chopin’s death mask in Antonin palace,photo: P. Skórnicki

Park in Antonin, photo: Z. Schmidt

2120

weeks. Another cause of my trip is the fact that Radziwiłł will be staying at his estate near Kalisz. There have been some promises that I could go to Berlin and live in his palace there, and some other such niceties and pleas�antries — but I myself cannot see any gain in that even if it were to happen, which I doubt really. I have seen the changing fortunes of great men’s favours. But my Papa doesn’t want to believe that these suggestions were only intended as ‘des belles paroles’, and this is the reason for my excursion � but it seems to me I have written about that to you before.

Warsaw, 20 October 1829, in a letter to Tytus Woyciechowski

The village of Strzyżew, in the com�mune of Sieroszewice, district of Ostrów holds no traces of Fryderyk Chopin – apart

from the fact that the local primary school is named after him. But in fact the com�poser visited the place many times because his godmother Anna Wiesiołowska (née Skarbek) lived in Strzyżew. Yet, today we do not know where the manor house owned by Anna and Stefan Wiesiołowski was lo�cated, or what it looked like. Both the lo�cal church and a mansion preserved here date from the 1870s. Even in the cemetery in nearby Kotłów, where Anna and Stefan Wiesiołowski were buried their graves have not been preserved. Their deteriorating tomb was dismantled in the mid�1920s fol�lowing orders of the�then parish priest and the place was used for other burials. The sparse notes made by Chopin’s sister, �udwika, in her booklet describing her own excursion, in a style of a child’s story addressed to other children, and en�

titled “Joseph’s Trip from Warsaw to the Spring Waters of Silesia Written in His Own Words” mention that the manor house was surrounded with a cherry orchard, in the garden raspberries and strawberries were growing, and there was a vegetable garden, as well. Inside the house there was “a draw�ing room with doors leading to a bedroom”, as well as a dining room with portraits of the parents of Anna Wiesiołowska – Kasper Skarbek, bearer of the Abdank coat of arms, and his wife �udwika (née Fenger). In the house there was also a clavichord, most probably in the drawing room. In her story, narrated by Józio Skarbek �udwika wrote: „ ... it was getting dark, so we came back into the room. Our Aunt played the clavichord while I and �udwisia were dancing – ma�ma�zurek, waltz and other dances, and so we passed the time until supper.” It is highly probable that Chopin used to play the clavichord as well, during

his visits to his godmother, especially during that longer, well�documented stay in 1829 – from Thursday 22 October to �onday 26 October and from Thursday 5 November until Saturday 7 November (or from Thurs�day 22 October to Friday 30 October). The time between 26 October and 5 November (or 30 October to 7 November) Chopin spent in nearby Antonin, hosted by Duke Antoni Radziwiłł. It can be assumed that Chopin visited Strzyżew many times, reportedly he once stayed there for a whole month dur�ing summer holidays, yet unfortunately no accounts related to this fact have been pre�served.

Village of Strzyżew,photo: P. Skórnicki

Surroundings of Strzyżew,photo: P. Skórnicki

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POZNAŃ

Selected accommodation:Sheraton Poznań Hotelul. Bukowska 3/9, 60�809 Poznańtel. 61 655 20 00, fax 61 655 20 01www.sheraton.plSafir Hotel ul. Żmigrodzka 41/49, 60�171 Poznań tel. 61 867 37 11, www.hotelsafir.plPoznański Hotelul. Krańcowa 4, 62�030 �ubońtel. 61 649 99 88, www.hotelpoznanski.plHotel Mercure ul. Roosevelta 20, 60�829 Poznań tel. 61 855 80 00, fax 61 855 89 55 www.accorhotels.comHotel HP Park ul. abpa Antoniego Baraniaka 7761�131 Poznań tel. 61 874 11 00, fax 61 874 12 00 www.hotelepark.plHotel Ibis Poznań Centrum ul. Kazimierza Wielkiego 23 61�863 Poznań tel. 61 858 44 00, fax 61 858 44 44 www.ibishotel.comPensjonat Nasz Klub – Guest Houseul. Woźna 10, 61�777 Poznańtel. 61 851 76 30, fax 61 851 66 81www.naszklub.pl„Hanka” School Youth Hostel ul. Biskupińska 2760�463 Poznań Strzeszyn tel. 61 822 10 63, fax 61 840 71 28 www.schroniskahanka.com

Selected catering establishments:Restauracja Przy Bamberce Stary Rynek 2, 61�772 Poznań tel. 61 852 99 17, www.bamberka.com.plBrovaria Stary Rynek 73, 61�772 Poznań tel. 61 858 68 68/78, fax 61 858 68 69www.brovaria.plGreen Way- Vegetarian food outlet ul. 23 �utego 11 (and ul. Taczaka 2 i Zeylanda 3), 61�741 Poznań tel. 61 582�52�41, greenway@wp.plwww.greenway.webpark.pl

Gospoda Pod Koziołkami Stary Rynek 95, 61�773 Poznań tel. 61 851 78 68, fax 61 851 78 69gospoda@avanti.poznan.plwww.podkoziolkami.plPieprz i wanilia ul. �urna 3a (róg ul. Koziej)61�771 Poznań tel. 61 851 86 64, fax 61 855 35 40biuro@pieprzwanilia.plwww.pieprzwanilia.pl

Useful addresses: Poznań City Hallplac Kolegiacki 17, 61�841 Poznańtel. 61 878 52 00www.poznan.plMuseum of Musical InstrumentsStary Rynek 45, 61�772 Poznańtel. 61 856 81 78, fax 61 856 81 77muzinstr@mnp.art.pl, www.mnp.art.plCathedral of Saints Peter and Paul Ostrów Tumski 17, 61�120 Poznańtel. 61 85 29 642, fax 61 85 29 642www.katedra.archpoznan.org.pl

ŻYCHLIN

Selected Accommodation:Reformed Evangelical Parish Parkowa 7, Żychlin, 62�571 Stare �iasto tel. 63 244 26 24, fax 63 244 26 24www.zychlin.reformowani.plHotel KoninAleje 1 �aja 13, 62�510 Konintel. 63 243 76 00, fax 63 243 76 07www.konin.plHotel PałacykAleje 1 �aja 15a, 62�510 Konintel. 63 245 77 77, fax 63 246 60 10www.hotel�konin.comSchool Youth Hostelul. Staffa 5, 62�505 Konin � Gosławicetel./ fax 63 242 72 35ww.schronisko�goslawice.pl

Selected catering establishments:Restauracja Italiaul. Chopina 16, 62�510 Konintel. 63 242 13 25, www.resitalia.konin.pl

Restauracja „Living Room”ul. Zakładowa 3, 62�510 Konin tel. 63 245 88 22Gospoda Piwnicznaplac Wolności 11, 62�500 Konintel. 63 244 11 98www.gospodapiwniczna.pl

Useful addresses:Fryderyk Chopin Society in Żychlin near Konin ul. Parkowa 2, Żychlin, 62�571 Stare �iasto tel./fax 63 244 25 53, 63 244 26 63 www.zychlin.plReformed Evangelical Parish ul. Parkowa 7, Żychlin, 62�571 Stare �iasto tel. 63 244 26 24fax 63 244 26 24www.zychlin.reformowani.plFryderyk Chopin School of Catering and Economicsul. Parkowa 2, Żychlin, 62�571 Stare �iasto tel. 63 244 25 53, tel. 63 244 26 63www.zychlin.edu.pl

KALISZ

Selected Accommodation: Hotel EuropaAl. Wolności 5, 62�800 Kalisztel./fax 62 767 20 31/33www.hotel�europa.plCalisiaul. Nowy Świat 1�3, 62�800 Kalisztel. 62 767 91 00fax 62 767 91 14www.hotel�calisia.plSeven ul. Częstochowska 77, 62�800 Kalisztel. 62 764 43 43www.hotelseven.plSchool Youth Hostelul. Handlowa 30, 62�800 Kalisztel. 62 757 24 04

Selected catering establishments:Karafkaul. Górnośląska 10, 62�800 Kalisz tel. 62 767 86 60www.cafekarafka.pl

Piwnica RatuszowaGłówny Rynek 20, 62�800 Kalisztel. 62 757 05 03Pięterko Staropolskaul. Zamkowa 12, 62�800 Kalisztel. 62 757 53 02www.centrum.pl/restauracje

Useful addresses:City Hall in KaliszGłówny Rynek 20, 62�800 Kalisztel. 62 765 43 00, fax 62 764 20 32www.kalisz.plCulture and Art Centre in Kalisz ul. Łazienna 6, 62�800 Kalisz tel. 62 765 25 50, 62 765 25 01 fax 62 767 23 18www.ckis.kalisz.pl

ANTONIN

Accommodation and catering establish-ments:Radziwiłł Hunters’ Palace in Antoninul. Pałacowa 1, Antonin, 63�422 Przygodzicetel. 62 734 83 00, 62 734 83 02fax 62 734 83 01www.chopin�antonin.plwww.ckis.kalisz.plLido Sports and Recreation Centre inAntoninul. Wrocławska 6, 63�421 Przygodzice tel./fax 62 73 48 127, 609 198 426 www.antonindomki.pl

Useful addresses:Culture and Art Centre in Kalisz ul. Łazienna 6, 62�800 Kalisz tel. 62 765 25 50, 62 765 25 01 fax 62 767 23 18, www.ckis.kalisz.plCity Hall in Ostrów Wielkopolskial. Powstańców Wielkopolskich 1863�400 Ostrów Wielkopolski tel. 62 58 22 400, 62 736 62 41, 62 591 78 88 fax 62 736 64 07, 62 591 82 06 www.ostrow�wielkopolski.um.gov.plwww.ostrow�wielkopolski.eu

24

Tourist Information

Poznań61�772 Poznań, Stary Rynek 59/60tel. 61 852 61 56, 61 855 33 79it@cim.poznan.pl

Entrance, ul.27 Grudnia61�816 Poznań, ul. Ratajczaka 44 tel. 61 851 96 45, 61 856 04 54 centrum@cim.poznan.pl

Poznań International Fair60�734 Poznań, ul. Głogowska 14tel. 61 869 20 84centrum@cim.poznan.pl

Airport Poznań�Ławica60�189 Poznań, ul. Bukowska 285tel. 61 849 21 40lawica@cim.poznan.pl

Poznań Railway Station60�801 Poznań, ul. Dworcowa 1tel. 61 866 06 67info@globtourfb.poznan.pl

Gniezno 62�200 Gniezno, ul. Rynek 14tel. 61 428 41 00info@szlakpiastowski.com.pl Kalisz62�800 Kalisz, ul. Zamkowatel. 62 598 27 31it@um.kalisz.pl

Konin62�510 Konin, ul. Dworcowa 2tel. 63 246 32 48biuro@lotmarina.pl

Leszno64�100 �eszno, ul. Słowiańska 24tel. 65 529 81 91, 65 529 81 92infotur@leszno.pl

Nowy Tomyśl 64�300 Nowy Tomyślpl. Niepodległości 10tel. 61 442 38 06r.ratajczak@nowytomysl.pl

Piła64�920 Piła, al. Niepodległości 33/35tel. 67 210 94 80pit@powiat.pila.pl

Puszczykowo62�040 Puszczykowo, ul. Poznańska 1tel. 61 633 62 83, 61 898 37 11promocja@puszczykowo.pl

Śrem 63�100 Śrem, ul. Okulickiego 3tel. 61 283 27 04unia@srem.com.pl Wolsztyn64�200 Wolsztyn ul. Roberta Kocha 12atel. 68 347 31 04gci@wolsztyn.pl

Publisher: Wielkopolska Tourist Organizationul. 27 Grudnia 17/19, 61�737 Poznań

Written by: Anna PlenzlerTranslation: Timothy Downey

Graphic design: Agencja Fotograficzna Studio�F, www.olszewskiphoto.plCover photos: Z. Schmidt, K. Piechocki

ISBN: 978�83�61454�99�1Poznań 2012

Project co�financed by the European Union through the Regional Development Fund, as part of the Wielkopolska Regional Operational Program for the years 2007 � 2013

European Funds for Innovation and Development in Wielkopolska

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