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What are some of the things Florida is most famous for? Alligators, oranges, Indians, Spanish and Cuban heritage, conch, and palm trees!FAMOUS FLORIDA! CRACKER COOKIN' AND OTHER FAVORITES is filled with these popular symbols of the Sunshine State. Here in one volume are vignettes of long established back-roads eateries where Cracker favorites are served, together with instructions on how to prepare these dishes yourself.As a combination cookbook/tour guide, CRACKER COOKIN' is an easy-to-use book Ponce de Leon himself would ask for if he were here today.Cook up a storm with these 150 easy-to-prepare down-home recipes for traditional Florida Cracker foods, Indian and Hispanic ethnic dishes, Southern home cookin', and other favorites "imported" by restaurant owners who have moved to Florida from other states.You'll enjoy popular choices such as Catfish * Swamp Cabbage * Hushpuppies * Conch Fritters * Hoppingjohn * Frog Legs * Deviled Crabs * Turtle Soup * Indian Fry Bread * Oyster Stew * Key Lime Pie * Strawberry Shortcake * Garbanzo Bean Soup * Platanos Maduros (Plantains) * Peanut Butter Pie * Spiced Apples * Chicken and Dumplings * Gator Burger * Mango-Banana Pie and many more.For everyone who loves simply prepared good food, a little folklore, and a lot of sunshine, FAMOUS FLORIDA! CRACKER COOKIN' AND OTHER FAVORITES is just the book for you!(324 pages | PDF | ISBN 0942084063 |OCR Adobe Clearscan)

TRANSCRIPT

Page 1: Florida Cracker Cookin
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© Copyr ight 1 984 LaFray P u b l i s h i n g Company

ALL R I G HTS R ESERVED I n c l u d i n g the Rfghf.Of Reprod uct ion

in Who l e ow�art.i n ·l>.n

�Y �rm ... ,..

F i rst Ed i t ion

FOR ADDITI ONAL COPI ES, USE O R D ER B LAN KS IN TH E BACK O F TH E BOOK O R W RITE DIR ECTLY TO:

LaFray Pu b l i s h i ng Com pany P.O. Box 76400

St. Petersburg , F lor ida 33734 81 3-821 -3233

Pri nted i n the Un ited States of A mer ica International Standard Book Number: 0- 942084-07-1

Library of Congress Card Catalog Number: 83-082687 First Printing: February 1 984

0 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1

PUBLISHER: Joyce S. LaFray-You n g TEXT BY: bj A l tsc h u l

PHOTOGRAPHY: b j A l tsc h u l EDITORIAL FOOD CONSULTANTS:

Susan Shepard Lau ra DeSalvo

Joyce LaFray-Young COVER ART AND ILLUSTRATIONS BY: Adele Sgro

Pat Stockey ASSISTANT TO THE PUBLISHER: Betty Jo Sc h ies

TYPOGRAPHY AND DESIGN: Mari ner Typog raphers I nc . Add i t ional photos courtesy of F l or ida State Arch ives,

Tal l ahassee

The fol lowing songs or excerpts thereof are pri nted with permiss ion: I Want To Be A Florida Cracker ©1977 Cl ifford J. Buckosh

Back Roads ©1982 Don Grooms Mangrove Buccaneer © 1975 Dale Crider

Hold Back The Waters Of Lake Okeechobee ©1980 Will McLean I'm A Cracker (Carl Allen's Song) © Frank Thomas

Page 5: Florida Cracker Cookin

COV ER A RT BY ADELE SG RO

�raYPUbliShing Company St. Petersburg, Florida

Page 6: Florida Cracker Cookin

I Want To Be A Florida Cracker

© 1977 CliHord J. Buckosh All rights reserved

Wish mv mama knew how to cook swamp cabbage Wish mv daddy had a rattlesnake hide Wish I knew how to Ax some conch hitters Wish I had me a Seminole bride.

Chorug: I want to be a Aorida Cracker But I'll never get a chance to try

I want to be a Aorida Cracker But I'll be a damn Yankee 'til I die.

love them alligator, pink flamingo Kumquat, avocado, Key lime pie Can't get enough of that Sunshine surf's up Never get enough 01 that clear blue sky.

Osceola, Flagler, Ponce', Menendez All knew that they found something good KeV West smugglers, Tarpon sponge divers Never would leave even if they could.

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w z :::::i o w 1= o o z o o a: o o w a: LL LL o a: � w �

To the people of Florida

-past, present and future­

and especiallv for

those who preselVe the state's native foodwavs

in places where everyone may savor

these recipes

. � - - .� . -...... - .. .�. -� . - - .. - - - - ,- . _'· =·#··�� ·u·�#·u·�#·�u·#··u·=·=· u·=·=·=· . . ' . . -. ... . . -M' . -M'. . .. . -M' . . ."M'. . .. . . -. . -. . -. . -. . .. . . - . . -. ..

Page 8: Florida Cracker Cookin

NOTES FROM THE TEST KITCHENS

For those of us i n the test kitchens, test ing the rec i pes for CRACKER COO K I N ' was a u n ique experience. Some of the cooki ng proced u res were new to us. Some of the i ngredients were u n usual . We had no idea that there were so many i n­terest i ng ways to prepare swamp cabbage -we had seen i t o n l y i n salads. The fried steak, m u c h t o our surpr ise, wasn 't the least b i t g reasy. The q u i c k fry ing sealed i n the j u ices and the f lavor. The I nd ian rec i pes proved to be del i g htful . We'd never tried an " I nd i an burger" before. And, we d iscovered that tryi ng reg ional cook ing methods can i ndeed expand one's c u l i nary educat ion .

Many of the rec i pes were submitted i n bu lk q uant it ies that we had to alter for fam i ly-s ized port ions, because our ai m was to make the rec i pes as easy as poss ib le to fol low. The i n g re­d ients are l i sted in the order of use. Where appro priate, we noted subst i tut ions where an i ng red ient may be d i ff i cu l t to f ind in your area. Please note that cooki n g and p reparation t i mes are approxi mate, s ince everyone works at a d i fferent speed. There are a lso heat ing variat ions i n gas and electric stoves.

Here are a few suggestions:

• Before market ing and p lan n i n g you r meal , read the rec i pe over carefu l ly to e l im i nate any surpr ises. Several rec i pes have an overn ight mari nat i ng t ime .

• Cons u l t you r l ocal butcher for u n usual cuts of meat cal l ed for so he can he lp you choose the best cuts or recom mend alternatives.

• Don 't be afra id to try a rec i pe that sou nds u n usual or uses i ngredients in an u n usual way. Most l i ke ly you w i l l be p leased with the outcome.

• Welcome to this adventure in C RACKER GOO K IN '. We know that you w i l l enjoy it as much as we have !

VI

Laura DeSalvo Susan Shepard

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A NOrE FROM THE PUBLISHER

Here's your g u ide to TH E OTH ER FLO R I DA, the real Florida, as we res idents know it to be. You ' l l d i scover foods that Florid ians have been proud of for many years, at remote restaurants that you m ight otherw ise never know. CRACKER COOKI N ' i ntrod uces you to the people, the scenery and the Florida back-cou ntry that has long been a secret to many. Author Marjorie K innan Raw l i ngs cal led it an enchanted land , and i ndeed i t is .

The eateries selected were carefu l ly chosen and are m uch more than j ust restaurants . . . they're statements of Florida's heri tage with m uch i nformation about our past trad it ions i n food preparat ion.

bj Altsc h u l , our wri ter, has tru ly made th is a labor of love. Her th i rsty i nterest in THE OTH ER FLOR I DA, together with her enthusiast ic devotion to our Sunsh ine State, have made th is the story of Florida and one that we i nv i te you to enjoy along with us . J ust as Marjor ie Ki n nan Raw l i ngs , author of Cross Creek, said about her homeland, we can also say about Flor ida, that she "belongs to the w i nd and the rai n , to the sun and the season s, to the cosmic secrecy of seed , and beyond al l , to t i me."

Whether you enjoy these rec i pes in the restau rants or in the comfort of your home, we know that you ' l l enjoy you r tour of Famous Flor ida!

/ / I

/J

VII

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ABOUT THE AUTHOR Though not a Florida Cracker by b i rth or occ u pat i o n , bj Altsc h u l has l ived i n the Sunsh i ne State long enough to con­s i der herself a "sem i -nat ive ." Th roug h her act iv i t ies as a found i ng member of the Flor ida Fol k lore Soc i ety and a vol ­u nteer at t h e ann ual Florida Fol k Festival i n Wh ite Springs , she has c u l t ivated fr ien d s h i ps wi th many talented i n d i­v idual s who are "Crackers ," a "Crac ker" be ing one who was born and raised here .

Professional ly , h e r years o f experience a s a p u b l i c re lat ions counse lor, ed itor and writer for c i ty, reg ional and tour ist pub l i cat ions have brought her in freq uent contact with much of the state's h i story and its t rad i t ions . bj is a freq uent contri b utor to local , state and nat ional pub l i cat ions. At pres­ent, she is i n vo lved in her own con su l t ing p ract ice , Capi tal Com m u n i cat ions of Tampa.

Li sted in WHO'S W H O I N TH E SOUTH A N D SOUTHWEST, Ms. Altschu l i s an act ive member of the Publ i c Relat ions Soc i ety of Am eri ca, the F lor ida Freelance Writers Assoc ia­t ion , the Florida Mot ion P icture & Televi s i on Associat ion , and the Nat ional Assoc iat ion of Creat i ve Ch i l d ren and Ad u l ts. She h as served as a g rant review panel ist for the F ine Arts Co u n c i l of Flor ida and lecturer for the Flor ida Sun ­coast Writers' Conference.

Ori g i na l l y from Norfo l k, V i rg i n i a, she now cal l s Tam pa home. A Flori d a res ident s i n ce 1 967, she attended Goucher Col lege i n Towson , M ary land, and completed her Bachelor of Arts i n Interd i sc i p l i nary Socia l Sc ience as a Dean 's L ist stu­dent at the Un ivers ity of South Florida. Current ly she is work­i ng on her thes is for a Master of Arts i n American Stud ies, a natural basis for com p i l i ng th is engag i ng revi ew of Cracker foodways in Florida. Her wri t ing and organizat ional abi l i ty have been praised by Wernher von Braun , the Salvador Dal i Foundat ion , Flor ida Secretary o f State George F i restone, and many busi ness, med ia and academ ic profess ionals.

Vlll

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ACKNOWLEDGMENTS Somet i mes you don't know where a fragment of fo lk lore

comes from, j ust that i t 's there. So it is w i th much of the h istory in these pages. I t could be a t idb i t from an anecdote told by one of the restaurant owners. Or it cou ld be a fact g leaned from the vol u mes of pub l ished F lorida h istory. Or it cou l d be a phrase that j ust "happened, " perhaps from some­one we met but we can't recal l who or when or where or even how.

So i t 's d i ff i c u l t to thank every i n d iv id ual by name who d i rect l y or i nd i rect ly hel ped us com p i le t h i s c o l l ect ion of rec i pes or contr ibuted to the narrat ive. There are a few whom I 'd personal l y l i ke to s ing le out because they've so g reat ly i nf l uenced my love for Florida and conseq uently th is research. F i rst, Cous in Thel ma Bol t i n , m istress of cere­mon ies for the Flor ida Folk Fest ival , i nst i l l s i n a l l who meet her a deep fee l i ng for the Fl orida of o ld , the Florida of nature. A specia l thank you a lso to the fol ks ingers and fo l klorists who have granted perm ission to pr int the words to the ir songs or have in other ways lent thei r support and encour­agement-C l i ff Buckosh, Don Grooms, W i l l M c Lean , Gamble Rogers, Dr. Patr ic ia Waterman, Dale Crider, Fran k Thomas, Sem i nole Tr ibal Chairman James B i l l ie , and n u merous others.

The staff of the F lorida Fol k Life Center at the Stephen Foster M emorial deserves special ment ion, as do those at the Florida State Arch ives, the Department of Natural Resources, the Game and Fresh Water F ish Com miss ion , and the Florida Col lect ion at the Un iversity of South Florida L ibrary.

We'd also l i ke to thank the food ed i tors of magazi nes and newspapers across the state and the many others who sug­gested these great eateries. And, of course, our deepest grat i tude goes to the restaurant owners themselves for taki ng their t i me to share thei r stories and the i r rec i pes. Th is col l ec­t ion wou ld not exist without them.

bi Altschul

IX

Page 12: Florida Cracker Cookin

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Page 13: Florida Cracker Cookin

INTRODUCTION Florida's history represents a melange of eve nts, per­

sonal it ies, and i nf luences from different cou ntries. I ts regional "foodways," according to folklore, are the endur ing ways of preparing native foods a long with the c ustoms for serving them. Even though there isn't any one dominant theme behind the overal l statewide cu is i ne, each section of the state and each of several major foods has made a con­tribution that is an i ntegral part of Florida's cu linary identity.

We m ust take issue with Waverley Root's assessment of Florida food as "characterized by an overwhe lm i ng abun­dance of raw materia ls and a rather s pectacu lar absence of good cooki ng ." On the contrary, we've found that it's j ust a matter of know i ng where to look and what to look for.

Th is co l lection of reci pes from "down-home" restaurants throughout F lorida represents an effort to l ocate the p laces that sti l l serve traditional d ishes-d ishes that evolved from the days of explorat ion , p i on eer sett l ement, eth nic heritage u n ique to F lori da, and the "good 01' days " of j ust a few decades ago. You' l l discover several u ses of the term "Cracker"-defi ned as not o n ly someone who was born and raised in the Sunsh ine State, but a lso a "Cracker cowboy, " a cow h u nter who c racked his whip as h e rust l ed herds of catt le .

How did we select the eateries in C RACKER COO KI N '? Through a variety of research methods and recommenda­t ions from folks around the state. We contacted food wri ters and editors, food afic ionados, and j ust p lain went looking for 'em. It wasn't so easy to f i n d exactly the k inds of p laces we wanted in every commun ity!

Most of the reci pes were p reviously unpub lished. It was genu i nely rewarding to have found such a generous sp i rit among the owners who shared with us these special tradi­tions and the i r contemporary favorites.

Xl

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I f you p lan to v is i t any of these restaurants, ca l l ahead to f ind out hours and days open. The restaurant bus iness is h igh ly changeable, and wh i le most that we've i n c l uded have done th i ngs the same way for decades, you never k now when a change may occu r.

A lso, state reg u l at ions regard i ng protected species of f lora and fau na may vary from year to year, so we've i nc l uded i n format ion i n the Append ix so that you may contact the approp riate agencies d i rect ly.

CRACKER COO KI N ' is organ ized geog raph ical ly so that you may use i t as a tou r g u i de i n each reg ion of the state. I n those com m u n i t ies where we've i nc l uded more than one restau rant , they're presented in a lphabet ica l order.

You ' l l f i nd the Ap pend ix a g reat help in your q uest for g reat c u i s i ne . The Fest ival s Calendar w i l l h e l p you p lan you r trave ls around a food theme that is t ied i n w i th h i story. The Reference List w i l l d i rect you to add i t iona l i n format ion about Flor ida's native c u i s i ne .

We know you ' l l enjoy your journey through t h e back roads of Florida, i nto the k itchens where "mom and pop" estab­l i shments are very much a l ive .

Garri son Kei l I or, host of the popu lar Prairie Home Com­panion show broadcast weekly on the American Pub l ic Rad io N etwork, personif ies the warmth of smal l -town America. I n t h i s col lect ion we offer you our vers ion of what you m ight cal l a "Cracker Home Com pan ion," an i nvitat ion to d i ne i n "The Other F lorida. "

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TABLE OF CONTENTS Restau rants - i n geograp h i c order

N O RTHWEST Coffee Cup , Pe n saco la . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 Dai nty-De l , Pen sacola . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 8 H opki ns Board i n g H ouse, Pensaco l a . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 5

Mama Co le 's Cafe, Panama C i ty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21

J u l i a M ae 's Town- I n n , Carrabe l l e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 25

Wak u l la Spr ings Lodge, Waku l l a Spr i n g s . . . . . . . . . . 29

N O RTH EAST Parson's , M ayport . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 35 S.W. Cowboy's , St . August ine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 41

Q'Steen 's , St . August ine . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 46

V i lano Seafood Shack, St. August ine . . . . . . . . . . . . . 50

Robert ' s Dock, Lake C i ty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 54 Mama Lo's , Ga inesvi l l e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 61 The Pri m rose I n n , Ga inesv i l l e . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 69

The Yearl i n g , Cross Creek . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 73

WEST CENTRAL J o h n so n 's , Cedar Key . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 77

M asaryktown H otel Restaurant , M asaryktown . . . . . . 83 Buddy Freddys, Plant C i ty . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 91 A l l e n ' s H i stor ical Cafe, Auburndale . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 99

Acap u l c o Cafe, Zolfo Spr i n g s . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 1 Latam Restaurant , Tam pa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 8

La Teres ita, Tam pa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 27

M el 's H ot Dog s, Tam pa . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 32 S i lver R i n g Cafe , Ybor C i ty (Tampa) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 36

Pau l 's S h ri m p, Tarpon Spr i ngs . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 39 The Chattaway, St . Petersburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 46 J ack 's Skyway, St. Petersburg . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 5 1 Doe-AI Coun try Cook i n ' , South Pasadena . . . . . . . . . 1 56 Ted Peters Fam ous Sm oked F i s h ,

S o u t h Pasadena . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 62

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EAST CENTRAL Hampton 's , Daytona Beac h . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 65 The Old Span ish Su gar M i l l , Deleon Spr ings . . . . . . 1 73

Oviedo I n n , Oviedo . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 78 The Catf i s h P lace, St . C loud . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 85

Suncrest Restau rant , M e l bourne . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 90

SOUTH EAST Ye Tower L u n c h , Lantana . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 95 La Esq u i na d e Tejas , M iam i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 99 M alaga, M ia m i . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 205

The S p i ra l , Coral Gables . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 3 M iccosu kee Restau rant , Tam i am i Trail ( M i am i ) . . . . 220

M an g rove Mama's , S ugar Loaf Key . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 226

Hal f Shel l Raw Bar, Key West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 235 Pepe's Cafe, Key West . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 242

SOUTHWEST Flora and E l la 's Restau rant, LaBe l le . . . . . . . . . . . . . 249

Gator G ri ll , M arco I s l and . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 259

State Farmers M arket Restaurant , Ft. Myers . . . . . . 262

Buttonwood Bar B-O, San ibe l . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 266

The Crab Trap, Palm etto . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 273

APPENDIX Glossary . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 277 F lor ida Foods . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 280

Where To Get Answers About F lorida's Plant And A n i mal L i fe . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 286

Festiva ls Cale ndar . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 287 Reference L i st . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 292 I ndex of Rec i pes . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 296

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Coffee Cup

Pensacola I t 's j ust a p la in wh ite bu i l d i ng on the outside and has j ust a

p la in 1 950s-style decor on the i ns ide. But Pensacola's Coffee Cup is one local i nst i tut ion that's been pack ing its c ustomers i n s i nce the day it opened i n 1 945. The'food is wholesome, the service is friend ly , prices are low, and the take-out serv ice for homemade p ies is as busy as the restau rant i tself .

The process of serv ing g uests at the Coffee Cup is such a hubbub al l day long that you'd be m istaken to th i n k there's a

. qu ieter t ime of day to mosey i n or out at le isure . The tabl es are f i l led al most from the moment the restaurant opens u nt i l i t 's t i m e t o c lose, a n d there 's often a l i ne of c ustomers wai t i ng for seats or for carry-out orders.

Th i s busy eatery is known for good home-style food , and espec ia l ly for Nassau grits . These are an ori g i nal adaptat ion of trad i t ional Southern gr i ts , with tomato sauce and other i ngredients added. The restaurant staff butchers its own beef and makes its own ch icken steaks and cut lets. Long-t i me chef Wi l l ie Lai rd uses no i nstant m i xes and i ns ists on cook­ing everyth ing long enough for al l the f lavors to be at the ir best.

Page 18: Florida Cracker Cookin

Owners Frederi ck and Earl i ne Cl eavel and and vari ous members of the i r fam i l y have owned the Coffee Cup si nce the early 1970s. Wi l l ie and several of the other cooks and wai tresses have been there al most from the beg i n n ing . And they're on a f i rst-name bas is with many of the ir reg u l ar customers. Some have been com i ng here so many years that you could al most set you r c lock by when they arrive. The restaurant is popu lar with pol i t ic ians, too-one who enjoyed the hotcakes was former Florida Governor Reub in Askew. On another occasion , the Coffee Cup even sent h i m some batter d i rect ly to Tal lahassee, the state cap i tal .

If you sit at the cou nter for breakfast, pay c lose attent ion to the short-order cooks at the gri l l . They ' l l fl i p some of the f luf­f iest omelets around, never miss ing a beat . And take a look around you. The seats at the cou nter may rem i n d you of an old soda fou ntai n of the 1 950s.

It 's a good p lace to start the day in th is Panhand le c i ty w i th i ts thriv i ng Naval Base and delightfu l restored h i storic areas.

Directions: The Coffee Cup is at 520 East Cervantes. From 1-1 10 into downtown, exit at Cervantes Street. Turn left (east) and drive to the Coffee Cup.

While you're here: Home of the world's largest Naval Air Station and the Navy 's precision flying team, the Blue Angels, Pensacola is considered a choice stateside assign­ment among service personnel. The Sea and Land Survival Exhibit and the Naval Aviation Museum show the history of American aviation. The aircraft training carrier, the USS Lex­

ington, is open to the public when she is in port.

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SPANISH OMELET

2 eggs 2 oz. vegetable shortening or butter

Coffee Cup Pensacola

Spanish Sauce (see recipe for Amberjack with Creole Sauce, page 4)

Beat eggs i n b lend er. M e lt short e n i n g or butter i n ski l let . Pou r eggs i nto sk i l let . A s eggs beg i n t o set aro u nd edge of s k i l let , l i ft edges of eggs w i th spat u l a s o that ru n ny part o n t o p goes to bottom f o r coo k i n g . F o l d omelet ove r i t s e l f a n d s l ide o n t o h eated p l ate . Pour h ot Span i s h Sau ce over omelet before serv i n g . For a Western o m e l et add a m i xt u re o f 3 tablespoons each of be l l pepper and onion and 112 cup ham, cut up, to the eggs in the sk i l let . Fo ld o m e l et .

Serves: 1 Preparat i o n : 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : 5 m i n utes

liThe Spanish Sauce adds a spicy tang to this simple omelet. "

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Coffee Cup Pensacola

AMBERJACK WITH SPANISH SAUCE

Make Spanish Sauce ahead:

SPANISH SAUCE 1 large onion, chopped 2 stalks celery, chopped 1 bell pepper, chopped

bacon grease 1 smal l can crushed tomatoes 1 smal l can tomato sauce 1 % t. flour 1 % t . butter 2 bay leaves

pinch sweet basi l dash hot sauce dash Worcestershire dash Soy sauce salt and pepper to taste

Saute onion, celery , and pepper in a little bacon grease. Pour in tomatoes and tomato sauce and mix. Make a roux* by melting the butter and stirring in the flour. Cook for a minute or two, then add to tomato mixture. Stir mixture until it thickens and comes to a boil. Add bay leaves and remaining ingredients and simmer for 10 minutes or until mixture reaches a gravy base consistency. Stir frequently.

*See Glossary.

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Wh i l e sauce i s cook i n g p repare f i s h :

6 f i l lets of f ish, cut in 6-oz. pieces % C. clarified butter 1 T. chopped parsley 2 t. lemon ju ice

paprika

Coffee Cup Pensacola

Pat f i l l ets out f lat w i th a pou nder. M e l t c l ar i fed butter and cook s lowly u n t i l l i g h t brow n . Stir in pars ley and lemon j u ice and s i m m er for about 5 m i n utes. P lace f i l l ets in an ove n-proof buttered pan and p o u r lemon butter over. Spr ink le papri ka on top. Pour warm Span ish Sau ce ove r the f i s h . Bake at 350 of. for 30 m i n utes u nt i l f i sh f lakes. Check after 1 5 m i n utes.

Serves: 6 Preparat i o n : 20 m i n utes Cooki n g : 30 m i n utes

"Amberjack is a Gulf fish, a member of the salmon family. Try this tasty sauce with any other fat fish such as pompano, sea trout or halibut. Excellent!"

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Coffee Cup Pensacola

NASSAU GRITS

2 C. Quaker quick grits (or your favorite brand) 1 onion, chopped 1 bell pepper, chopped 4 strips bacon 1 C. leftover ham or sausage 1 smal l can tomatoes

Prepare g ri ts accord i n g to i n struct ions on pac kage. Saute o n i o n and pepper. F ry bacon u n t i l c r isp , sav i n g g rease. Add bacon a n d leftover ham or sausage to o n ions and p eppers . M ix in tomatoes. Add ent i re m ixture to g ri ts , add i ng bacon fat to reac h des i red text u re. H eat j u st enough to warm t h rou g h . St i r we l l and serve.

Serves: 2-4 Preparat i o n : 1 0- 1 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : 5 m i n utes

"This is an easy dish that tastes even better when reheated. Make your own variations with your choice of 'odds and ends ' or leftovers. We didn 't have any leftovers, so we made this as a side dish with pork chops. Enjoy it meal after meal!"

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RUTABAGA CHUNKS

1 large rutabaga 2 oz. ham skin

water dash sugar salt and pepper to taste

Coffee Cup Pensacola

Peel rutabaga, s l i ce in q uarters, and then cut i n c h u n ks. Bo i l ham sk i n u n t i l tend er, about a n h o u r. Add ru tabaga c h u n ks and enough water to cover. Add a dash of sug ar, salt, and pepper to taste. Cook u n t i l tender, abo ut 30 m i n utes on top of stove or 1 hour i n ove n , to a l low the meat f l avor to be abso rbed i nto the vegetab l e . An alternat ive way to pre pare t h i s d ish i s w i th h a m o r bacon stoc k ( i n c l u d i n g t h e g rease) i n stead o f water a n d ham s k i n .

Serves: 1 0- 1 2 Preparat i o n : 1 h o u r Cooki n g : 1 '/2-2 h o u rs

"This is a good side dish with pork chops and greens. Be sure to add the dash of sugar because it really brings out the flavor. "

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Dainty Del

Pensacola Even though the G reek f lag isn 't one that gave Pensacola

i ts c lai m as the "City of Five Flags ," there has long been a very sizab le G reek com m u n ity here. Duri n g the f i rst hal f of the 1 9th centu ry the c ity elected the f i rst G reek mayor i n the Un ited States. And from the early 1 920s, the Dai nty Del Restau rant has been G reek-owned and managed.

Today's owner , George Georg iades, and h is three sons cater to a large and devoted fo l low ing . Devotees used to come for the ham burgers, oysters, and sandwiches when they cou l d n 't afford more expens ive meals . Now that these "fans" are ret i red , they sti l l come to the Dai nty De l , wh ich , as George says, has kept its image over the years . As the o ldest seafood restau rant i n town , it has remai ned popular with an­n iversary celebrants and many of the Wor ld War II Golden Eag le p i lots i n town . A ret i red county judge from Pensacola characterizes the restaurant as a p lace for the real old-t i mers, fol ks who can recount some of the c i ty's most i nterest ing and i ntricate h istori cal detai ls .

George w i l l p robab ly te l l you a few detai l s h i mse l f i f he 's out front host i ng and not busy i n the k i tchen . He's the k i nd of

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host who l i kes to be everywhere at once, always mak i ng sure he's feed i ng h i s g uests good food "j ust l i ke I want to eat i t . I was never sat isf ied for someone e lse to cook for me," he says of h is days g rowing up , when he used to cook a longs ide h is mother at home in Greece.

"There's somet h i ng in every h u man be ing , every cook to create," he adds. For h i m the spec ialty is charcoal-broi led seafood to preserve the best f ish fl avor. He does most of the " important" cooking h i mself , al l based on rec i pes and tech­n iques that he learned from h i s mother.

One day he'l l be test i n g a new kind of g ri l l . The next day he'l l be experi ment i ng with rot isserie st icks i n a new barbecue so that he can roast the best G reek ch icken, lamb, pork and beef . With a twi nk le in h i s eyes, he' l l te l l you what the day's specia ls are-Whole Broi led Snapper or Span ish Mac kere l , Stu ffed Whole F lounder, or Oysters Rockefel ler. Do try the oysters; he ins ists on buyi ng "the b iggest and the best" for h is customers.

Ask h i m why so many G reeks came to Pensacola and became i nvolved in com m u n i ty l i fe and f ish i n g . He' l l tel l you it's because they love the water. It 's a beaut i fu l view here.

Directions: The Dainty Del is at 286 North Palafox Street. From 1- 1 1 0 into downtown, exit at Cervantes Street and turn right (west). Turn left (south) on Palafox Street to address; Dainty Del is on the east side of the street.

While you're here: Pensacola is a history-lover 's delight. The town was actually the first attempt at settlement in the New World, predating St. Augus tine by six years. But the Spanish colony organized by Don Tristan de Luna was abandoned when ships bearing supplies were wiped out by s torms at sea. Today, the Sevil le Square H istorical District presents the Shopkeepers of Historic Seville. There are more than 30 shops, galleries, restaurants and museums in restored and well-maintained old cottages and mansions. There's probably not a single 19th-century wooden architectural style not

represented. Special events throughout the year recreate everything from a Gay'90s atmosphere to the city 's Spanish heritage during the Fiesta of Five Flags, every May.

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Dainty Del Pensacola

CHARCOAL-BROILED SHRIMP

6 jumbo shrimp per serving % oz. butter (approximately) % oz. lemon ju ice (approximately) 2 pinches oregano 2 pinches salt and pepper

Melt butter in small saucepan with an equal amount of lemon juice. Add oregano, salt and pepper. Coat shrimp in mixture and broil for 2 minutes on each side over hot coals.

Serves: 1 Preparation: 3 minutes Cooking: 5 minutes

"A quick way to prepare this Florida specialty. "

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CHARCOAL-BROILED SCAMP

1 9-10 oz. scamp * steak per serving 2 oz. ol ive oi l (approximately) 2 oz. lemon j uice (approximately) 2 pinches oregano 2 pinches salt and pepper

Dainty Del Pensacola

Make a mixture of equal amounts of olive oil and lemon juice. Add oregano, salt and pepper. Brush mixture on scamp steaks and cook over hot coals. Baste every few minutes. Scamp is done when juices stop flowing.

Serves: 1 Preparation: 5 minutes Cooking: 20-30 minutes

"This is similar to Charcoal-Broiled Shrimp, but you do need to cook the scamp longer. Scamp is a super· tasting fish."

'If not avai lable, substitute any firm l ean f ish.

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Dainty Del Pensacola

CRAB MEAT DRESSING

1 C. mayonnaise 1 C. m ustard 1 C. onions, chopped 1 C. celery, chopped 1 C. crushed crackers

at least 2 Ibs. fresh cooked crab meat 1 %-2 T. fish or Old Bay seasoning

salt and pepper to taste

M i x al l i n g redients we l l . Bake or bro i l u nt i l hot . Can be served stu ffed i n s h ri m p or a lone, w i t h some r ice on the s ide . A l ternat ive m ethod : stuff s h ri m p and fry u n t i l s h ri m p are done.

Serves : 4-6 Preparat ion : 20 m i n utes Cook i n g : 7- 1 0 m i n utes

"This is an easy dish for lunch or dinner. Serve with a green salad. "

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Dainty Del Pensacola

BROILED SNAPPER OR MACKEREL

6-8 oz. fresh snapper or mackerel f i l lets fresh onion, chopped or sl iced pepper (no salt!) pinch oregano paprika juice of half a fresh lemon ol ive oil to taste parsley, chopped, to garnish

Place f i l l ets in a buttered bak ing d i s h . Add o n ions . Spri nk le very l i g ht ly w i th pep per, oregano, and papri ka. Add l e m o n j u i ce and o l ive oi l . Bake at 350 OF . u n t i l f ish f l akes, about 10 to 15 m i n utes. G arn i s h w i th pars ley and serve.

Serves: 1 Pre parat i o n : 1 0 m i n utes Cooki n g : 1 0- 1 5 m i n utes

"A simple way to enhance the flavor of fresh fillets. Serve with boiled new potatoes, buttered and parsleyed, or serve with buttered wide noodles. "

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Dainty Del Pensacola

SPECIAL SNAPPER

4 8-9 oz. snapper steaks olive oi l

1 large onion, f inely chopped 1 bel l pepper, finely chopped 1 smal l carrot, f inely chopped 4-5 large mushrooms, quartered 2-3 small fresh tomatoes, roughly chopped

Coat snapper wi th o l i ve o i l and bro i l i n bro i l e r or over hot coals for abo u t 1 0 m i n u tes or unt i I done. Saute al l vegetab les except tomatoes i n abo ut 2 tablespoons of o l i ve o i l . Spread sauteed vegetab les and cho pped to matoes over snapper.

Serves: 4 Preparat i o n : 5 m i n utes Cooking: about 1 2-1 5 m i n utes

"Be sure not to cook the tomatoes. They make a pleasant contrast to the cooked vegetables."

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Hopkins Boarding House

Pensacola The sett i n g and at mosphere at Hopki ns Boarding House

are reminiscent of a John Ste i n beck nove l-g uests are al l ages, transient and long-term res i dents, some weathered by experience and some just start i ng out the i r lives. I n typical board i n g house sty le , fam i l ies and strangers s i t toget her at the same tab le and no one remains a stranger for long.

"Wou ld you pass the b lac k-eyed peas and the sp iced apples, p l ease?"

"Su re . Where you from?" And another friend ly conversat ion beg i n s . Arkie Be l l " M a" H o p k i n s f i rst entered t h e business i n

1948 a n d did a l l t h e cook i n g herse l f . S h e emphas ized the board i n g house aspect, feeding on ly its three or fou r lodgers, with g uests seated at a s i n g l e long tab le . Now it 's the other way around . The restaurant is the main part of the business, though there's sti l l room for a hal f-dozen boarders at the prese nt locat ion on Spri ng Street. There are now three

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d i n i n g areas, with a few fam i l y-s ize tab les in add i t ion to the long ones.

Ma Hopki n s wel comes you i nto h e r home, which is located in the h i storic d i strict of Pensacola . H i g h ce i l i ngs , family memorabi l ia, ant iq ues, and carved f i rep laces lend a sense of nostalgia to the g raceful o ld b u i l d i n g .

Wh at's different about board i n g house d i ning i s t hat you don't p lace an order from a menu . The food-and lots of it-is a l ready on the tab le, and you j ust h e l p yourse l f . At Hopkins Board i ng Ho use i t's a So uthern feast, everything from heap i n g bow l s of grits at breakfast to an array of fres h l y cooked vegetab les and fried chicken or an a lternate entree at l u nch and d i n n er. At one t i me, some of the vegetables were eve n grown in thei r own garden and p i c ked fresh daily. This was no doubt a carryover f rom Ma Hopkins' having grown up on a farm . Today the vegetab les are bou ght fresh from loca l farmers. At one time M a H opkins used to stay u p al l nig ht bak i n g pies by herse l f , but now that's a shared responsib i l i ty that extends to cobbl ers and pudd i ngs as wel l .

Another characteri stic of a boarding house meal is that you can serve you rse l f as much as you l i ke. Cheerfu l waitresses keep the large bow ls fi l led a l l the t ime. G uests come and go t h roughout the meal . And when you're ready to leave, take yo u r p late to the k i tchen . You pay on your way out.

And with al l the pass ing of food back and fort h , a boarding house reac h probab ly won't be necessary, but i t 's not out of p lace, e i ther !

Directions: Hopkins Boarding House is at 900 North Spring S treet. From 1- 1 10 all the way into town, turn right (west) on Cervantes Street (U. S. 90 and 98). Turn righ t again (north) on Spring Street to address.

While you're here: Hopkins Boarding House is in the North Hi l l Preservation District, a 60-block area of restored homes from the late 19th and early 20th centuries, beautifully tree­shaded and a joy for a "Sunday drive. " Fort George Park represents the only Revolutionary War battle fought in Florida, and Lee Square is a tribute to the Confederacy. Near­by downtown is peppered with historic churches, hotels, of­fice buildings, and the Saenger Theatre, which was called "Florida's Greatest Showplace" when it firs t opened in 1925.

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Hopkins Boarding House Pensacola

MAMA'S FANCY RICE AND CHICKEN

1 large (3%-4 lb.) fryer 1 C . rice, uncooked 1 medium onion, diced % C. diced celery % C. diced bel l pepper 1 smal l jar pimiento, d iced

salt and pepper to taste

Cut fryer in quarters. Salt and pepper to taste. Bake in covered pan in 375 of. oven about one hour or until tender. Remove and cover to keep warm. Add three cups water to drippings and brown particles. Scrape all particles from pan. Place in saucepan with rice and vegetables. Cook until rice is done, about 45 minutes. Place in dish with chicken and serve at once.

Serves: 4 Preparation: 5 minutes Cooking: 45 minutes plus one hour

"An easy main ·course dish. "

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Hopkins Boarding House Pensacola

VERY GOOD FRUIT SALAD

(c h i l l overn i g ht)

1 Ig . can pineapple t idbits 1 Ig. can fruit cocktai l 1 small jar maraschino cherries, halved 1 C. pecans, broken or coarsely chopped 1 8-oz" pkg . shredded coconut 1 small pkg. (1 0-oz.) small marshmal lows 1 C. sour cream

Dra in f ru i ts we l l . M i x all i ng red ients and st i r i n sour c ream . Refri g erate overn i g ht before serv i n g .

Serves : 8-1 0 Preparat i o n : 5- 1 0 m i n u tes p l u s ch i l l i ng overn ight

"You can save the liquid from the fruits to use as a quick topping for ice cream. This recipe is perfect to take to a potluck supper. Or, halve the ingredients and serve to your family or guests."

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Hopkins Boarding House Pensacola

LEMON CHIFFON PIE

1 C. boi l ing water 1 T. butter 2 large lemons 4 egg yolks % C. sugar 3 T. cornstarch 1 0" baked pie crust

MERI N G U E

4 egg whites 4 T. sugar

pinch of cream of tartar

Place boiling water and butter in top of double boiler. Wash lemons. Grate rind and add t o water and butt er. Squeeze lemon juice into a cup. Beat egg yolks. Mix % C. sugar and cornstarch wit h egg yolks, add lemon juice and beat well. Add this mixture t o boiling water, but t er and lemon rind. Cook and stir until t hick. Beat egg whites, 4 T. sugar, and pinch of cream of tartar unt il stiff and fold half of this mixture into the lemon mixture, saving remainder for meringue. Pour into baked pie shell. Spread balance of egg whites on top and brown lightly in oven or under broiler. Keep a sharp eye on the meringue so it doesn't burn.

Serves: 8 Preparation: 20 minutes Cooking: 15 minutes

"We tested this recipe early one morning. By noon it was all gone !"

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Mama Cole's Cafe

Panama Cify Some p laces that don 't look l i ke mu ch from the o utside

be l i e the fact t hat i n s ide is a sou l that permeates every morsel of food served, down to the l ast crumb on the p late.

Such a p l ace is Mama Cole 's , home of sou l food i n Panama Ci ty for c lose t o three decades . Dur ing that t ime, it seems, everyone in town has come to know Lu c i l l e Col e's sure hand in the k i tchen . Located just a few b locks from Bay Memorial Hospital and downtown c i ty off ice b u i l d i ngs, the t i ny cafe has p l ayed host to count less private d i n ner part i es, b i rthday celebrat ions, and other spec ia l occas io ns . Some fo l ks who l i ve i n the reg ion d rive as far as 20 mi l es just for Mama Col e 's home cooki n'.

It does n ' t matter that th ere are on ly f ive tables, decorated wi th red o i l c loth tab lec loths, or that the f loor i n s ide s l opes to one side. The tangy aroma of barbec ue sauce, ri bs, ch i cken, corn bread , and t u rn i p g reens gets you r o l factory senses i n gear. It's the food and the hosp ita l ity that you remember most.

Daughter Mercy, who is g rown now and a su ccessfu l model and cosmetolog i st, used to stand on a cha i r and wash

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d ishes when she was a c h i l d . Fam i ly mem bers have hel ped ru n the cafe over the years , and tod ay Mama Cole's n ieces are the waitresses. Mama Cole herself f i rst began cook ing when she was 1 2, start ing out i n Enterp ri se , A l abama, her hometown . At the start o f World War I I she came to Panama City for what she though t was going to be a weekend vaca­t ion , but she never l eft. She married and a few years l ater opened the restau rant .

Mama Cole 's rout i ne is to shop early in the morn ing for the fresh food that w i l l become the m i dday mea l . She beg i ns cooki n g by 8:30 a.m. Each day a separate menu i s written out by hand for each of the f ive tables. Food is served p i p i ng hot for the l u nch crowd and throug hout the afternoon .

Mama Co l e is usual ly so busy f i x i ng the food that she can't leave the k i tchen to greet al l of her g uests. But she solved the prob lem by p lac i ng a s ign out front that reads, " H e l l o everyone. Thanks for stopp ing by . Have a n ice d ay. God b less you , Mama Co le."

Now that's sou l .

Directions: Mama Cole's Cate is o n the corner o f Business 98 (6th Street) and Harmon Avenue. From scenic U.S. 98 coming from Tyndall Air Force Base, follow signs to Business 98. Stay on 98 to the intersection with Harmon, jus t a few blocks from the fire s tation. Or, coming from Panama City Beach and the U.S. Naval Reservation, follow U.S. 98 across the Ha thaway Bridge and as far as Frankford Avenue. Turn right on Frankford, which deadends in to Beach Drive, which is Business 98.

While you're here: Take your pick of resort facilities along the beach, or roam around the St. Andrews State Recreation Area near Shell Island, where you'll find a restored turpen­tine still. There's also the Junior Museum of Bay County, which includes a re-created Pioneer Village farm from the late 1800s. Don't miss a longer drive along U. S. 98 through Fort Walton Beach and Destin, which many claim are the "world's most beautiful beaches. " Sport diving and surfing are great here, too. The Miracle Strip Amusement Park offers 30 rides and a ttractions that will make you think of a year­round carnival midway.

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Mama Cole 's Cafe Panama City

SMOTHERED PORK CHOPS

4-6 pork chops (al low 6·8 oz. per serving) salt and pepper to taste seasoning salt (or Accent) flour for dipping cooking oil

Season chops wit h salt , pepper, and seasoning salt . Dip in flour and brown in cooking oil. Lower heat and cook until pork chops are almost cooked through.

Serves: 4-6 Preparation: 3 minut es Cooking: varies according to thickness of chops

for G RAVY:

2 C. water 1 onion, s l iced % C. f lour for th ickening (approximately)

salt and pepper to taste seasoning salt to taste gravy coloring (such as Master G ravy, or your

favorite brand)

Heat water in pan and add sliced onions. In separate bowl, mix flour and seasonings and add t o wat er with whisk unt il mixture is desired thickness. Add gravy coloring. Add cooked pork chops to gravy mixt ure and simmer for 10 minutes.

Serves: 4-6 Preparation: 5-10 minut es Cooking: 10 minutes

"As Mama Cole makes it, the gravy is like a thick breading that sticks to the chops. Pork chop·lovers, this is it!"

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Carrabelle A mere half-hour's drive from Apalach icola, oyster capi tal of

Florida, there's a very I i t t le town famous as the home of the t i n iest pol ice stat ion in the Un i ted States. The town is Car­rabel le, on the shores of scen ic route U .S. 98. The po l i ce sta­t ion 's headquarters are a telephone booth !

One t h i n g that's not t i ny i n Carrabe l le , thoug h , i s how much food you ' re served at J u l i a Mae's Town- I n n . For more than 30 years , J u l i a Mae Putnal has bee n mak i n g the most of seafood. A legend to the locals , sh e's the owner, manager, and ch ief cook at her popu lar roads ide retreat. Each day's fresh catc h i s brought in by her hu sband , who's the ch ief angl er. Her c la im of "Serv ing the Fi nest Seafood i n the South " is wel l deserved, and praise has even come from Flori da's Governor, Bob G raham.

Nest led amo ng tal l p i nes, J u l ia Mae's i s i n a q u i et , rust ic sett i n g . A treasu re t rove of shel l s and other f i n d i ngs from

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the reg ion and i ts waters graces the wal ls . There 's noth i ng fancy, m i nd you , but the am b iance i s i nstant ly i nv i t i ng .

Oysters appear on the menu i n at least a hal f-dozen sec­t ions. Any wel l - in formed shucker can te l l you that Apa­lach icola mai ntai ns more than 1 0,000 acres of oyster beds, produc ing some 90 percent of the state's ent i re crop . You can count on J u l ia Mae's to serve only the freshest.

The actual se lect ion of seafood varies from day to day ac­cord i ng to what M r. Putnal br ings i n . You can be assured that there w i l l al ways be more on your p l ate than you have room for. You ' l l just h ave to p lan ahead so you can sam p le J u l i a M ae's famous p ies. They're made f resh i n her "p ie house" and come i n many f lavors, f rom lemon m eri ngue to Key Li me. Ask about her banana pudd i n g , too . . . but be prepared for mountai nous serv i ngs.

Th is is def i n i te ly not a fancy p lace for a festive d i n ner, but you ' l l fee l ri g ht at home for a friend ly , wholesome repast. As one customer wrote in the g uest book, " I t sure was great, J u l ia Mae. I ' l l be back Apalach icola ! "

You ' l l say the same t h i ng , too.

Directions: Julia Mae 's To wn-Inn is directly on U. S. 98 in Carrabelle, on the south side of the road. The town is on the Gulf of Mexico, about 50 miles south of Tallahassee.

While you're here: Besides its reputation for commercial fishing and oystering, Apalachicola has a history of being the third largest cotton-shipping port on the Gulf of Mexico during the 1830s. In that same period, Dr. John Gorrie in­vented the first mechanical ice machine, a predecessor of refrigeration and air-conditioning. The Gorrie State Museum recalls the life of that era. If you 're in town early in November, don't miss the Florida Seafood Festival, complete with fresh fish, a parade, arts and crafts, crab races, and oyster shucking contests.

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OYSTER STEW

Julia Mae's Town-Inn Carrabelle

1 2 oysters, shucked and l iquor* reserved 1 C. m i l k

salt and pepper to taste 1 t. butter

Place oysters in pot with liquor and cook until they shrink slightly. Add milk, butter, and seasonings and heat just until hot so that stew doesn't curdle. Serve with crackers.

Serves: 1 Preparation: allow 15 minutes shucking time per

serving Cooking: about 10 minutes

"This is a mild oyster stew. You may want to add Tabasco and/or Worcestershire sauce at the table. "

·Liq u or, that's the water inside the oyster.

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JUlia Mae's Town-Inn Carrabelle

JULIA MAE'S CHOCOlATE PIE

1 qt. chocolate mi lk % lb. butter, melted 3 C. sugar 4 eggs, separated 5 T. cornstarch

water to dissolve cornstarch 2 T. vani l la 2 9" baked pie shells % C. sugar (for meringue)

pinch of cream of tartar

Combine milk, butter and 3 C. of sugar and bring to a boil. Dissolve cornstarch in water and beat in with egg yolks. Add vanilla to cornstarch and egg mixture. Then add to milk mixture. Beat until thick. Cool. Pour into pie shells. To make meringue: beat egg whites with a pinch of cream of tartar and % cup of sugar. Continue beating until stiff. Heat in 400 of. oven until brown. Cool for 1 hour at room temperature before refrigerating.

Serves: 6 per pie Preparation: 1 5 minutes plus 1 hour to cool Cooking: 5-8 minutes

"For an even more chocolate fla vor, add 1-2 tablespoons of chocolate syrup. Either way, this is a delicious pie for ·chocoholics.' "

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· . i ',; !" " /1

Wakulla Springs Lodge

Wakulla Springs I n recent years d i n i ng i n Tal lahassee has become charac­

terized by a n u m ber of very f ine restau rants and chain estab­l i shments. There's l i tt le left in the i ndependent midd le . But less than a hal f-hour's r ide south of town is a retreat f rom the c ity's three major i nd ustries- state government, F lorida State University, and lobby ing . The community of Waku l la Spri ngs is a p lace where the cou ntry's pr ist ine natural h istory seems sacred.

In a tranq u i l sett i ng of v i rg i n forest, Waku l l a Spr ings v is i tors can ponder the con stant f low of crystal c lear water from the spri ngs, formed from an underground river bas in that pumps more than 600,000 ga l lons of water a m i n ute. The spr ing name comes from a Creek I nd ian word for " mysteries of strange water." I n preh istor ic t i mes, an i mals were trapped i n caves that are now covered wi th water. Foss i l s of Masto­don bones and human c lans have been fou nd i n the area.

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Guests at the Lod ge can enjoy the many talents of the l ate Ed Bal l , f i nanc ier and entrepreneur. The 4 ,OOO-acre Edward Bal l W i l d l i fe Sanctuary is a natural land mark reg i stered wi th the Department of the I nterior. The Waku l l a Spri ngs Lodge i tse l f i s an exq u i s i te ly desig ned p i ece of workmansh ip . Ori g i na l ly constructed as Bal l 's personal retreat, i t has nonethe less a lways been open to the p u b l i c . The cei l i ng i n the lobby is pai nted w i th I n d ian and Span i s h themes to com­memorate the h i story of the s i te. Even though a sense of en­dur ing e legance pervades the d i n i n g room, i t i sn 't necessary for guests to d ress formal ly . You ' re expected to stro l l and revel in the outdoors , w i th i n formal att i re appropriate at mealt i me.

Chef Gernard Gowdy h as app l i ed the grac io usness of Southern hosp i tal ity to the menu , and the sett i ng is rem i n is­cent of antebe l l u m d ays. After the expected fr ied ch i c ken , corn bread and g ri ts , samp le the Lodge's s pecial t i es-Navy Bean Sou p , S h ri m p Florid i an (ju m bo shr imp wrapped i n bacon and served wi th Whole Bro i led Tomatoes), Stuffed Corn ish Hen , or tem pt i ng lemon and pecan p i es. You ' l l notice a d i fference i n the f lavor of the coffee, attri buted to the p u re spri n g water so abu ndant here .

From the c rystal water goblets and season ing contai ners to the fu l l -serv ice p lace sett i ngs, you ' l l f i nd a l l of the f i n ish i ng touches common at far more expens ive restau rants.

After d i n i n g , wander over to the g i ft shop with i ts 60-foot­long marb le soda fou ntai n , or retu rn to the W i l d l i fe Sanc­tuary. The rest fu l env i ronment is a treat. Enjoy.

Directions: Wakulla Springs Lodge is at the junction of SR 61 and SR 267. From Tallahassee, take U. S. 319 South to SR 61 South, turning eas t at SR 267. The en trance to the lodge is on the right.

While you're here: The Jungle Boat Tours and the Glass· bottom Boat Tours offer marine insights you 'll find practically nowhere else. Part of the show is the singing-storytelling recitation of the tour boat guides. It will remind you of the vocal impressions of spirituals and the blues. Watch for the legendary Henry, the Pole·Vaulting Fish while you take in some of the 154 species of birds that have been sigh ted here along with all manner of wildlife.

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Wakulla Springs Lodge Wakulla Springs

GRILLED FROG LEGS

1 lb. fresh frog legs milk, water, or beer for soaking legs

3 eggs 1 qt. mi lk

flour for d ipping salt and granulated garlic to taste butter lemon wedges and fresh parsley, chopped,

to garnish

Soak frog legs in m i lk , water, o r beer for at l east 2 hours. Season to taste wi th salt and g ran u lated garl i c . M ix together eggs and m ilk and d i p frog legs in m i xt u re . Rol l i n f l o u r. P lace o n buttered g ri l l o r g ridd le . Cook u nt i l brown o n eac h s ide , about 10 m i n utes, t u rn i n g once or twice u s i n g two large spatu l as . Garn i s h wi th lemon and chopped pars l ey.

Serves: 2 Preparat i o n : 5 m i n utes p l u s 2 hours for soak i n g Cooki n g : 1 0- 1 5 m i n utes

"Frog legs are all lean meat with no fatty tissue so they're a good low·ca/orie dish. Chef Gowdy's trick is to cover the legs with a pie tin while they're cooking so they'll come out moist. Try them yourself and you'll see why people rave about them !"

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Wakulla Springs Lodge Wakulla Springs

SHRIMP FLORIDIAN

1 lb . medium shrimp (21 ·25 count), shel led and deveined

a bout 8 strips of bacon, cut into 3 pieces each (1 s l ice bacon per 3 shrimp)

paprika softened butter toothpicks

Wrap each shr i m p in bacon and fasten wi th a toot h p ick. Spri n k le l igh t ly w i th papri ka and dot wi th a l i t t le b u tter. Bro i l i n pan w i th a smal l amount of water to prevent s t ick ing . Turn once w hen bacon beg i n s to cr isp. When cooked on both s ides, about 5 m i n utes, remove tooth p icks and serve with h ushpuppies (see page 1 88) and whole bro i led tomatoes, below .

WHOLE B R O I L E D TOMATOES

one tomato per serving bread crumbs salt and pepper to taste butter Parmesan cheese

Remove stem from tomatoes and cut out p u l p about a t h i rd of the way i n . F i l l w i th bread cru m bs and season ings to taste . Spri n k le with Parmesan c h eese and dot with b utter. P lace in a pan with a l i t t le water to preve nt st i ck i ng . Bake 1 5-20 m i n utes at 350 OF.

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Wakulla Springs Lodge Wakulla Springs

Arrange s h r i m p around tomato. Serve garn ished wi th lemon wedge and pars ley i f des i red .

Serves: 3 Preparat ion : sh r i m p - 5 - 1 0 m i n utes;

tomatoes- 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : shr i m p -5- 1 0 m i n utes;

tomatoes - 1 5-20 m i n utes

liThe tomatoes can be put under the broiler after baking just long enough to brown the cheese. "

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34

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Page 51: Florida Cracker Cookin

Parson's

Mavport Parson 's may best be descri bed as a restau rant-museum.

On i ts wal l s are mou nted dozens of f i sh caught i n local waters-bu l l dol p h i n , great white shark, ye l l owfi n t una, red bass, b lue marl i n , sai l f ish , snook, cownose ray, b u l ldozer, and b lack grouper, to name only a few. A l ight in the center of the d i n i ng room is made from four hammerhead sharks. D isp lay cases of shel ls are n i ce ly arranged near the entrance. Groups of school c h i l d ren often come on f ie ld tr ips, and i t 's common to see browsers taki ng p ictures.

But the fish col lect ion isn't al l Parson 's is known for. Friendly service and attent ion to each order are standard at th is local i n st i tut ion . As you may guess, seafood is the spec ialty, everyt h i n g from oysters and dev i led crab to red bass and lobster. Snapper, t rout, and f lounder are the most popu lar d ishes. The fresh seafood is brought in to be cleaned, f i l leted , and prepared on site.

Order you r choice of f ish e i ther broi led or fr ied. Each d i sh is prepared i n d iv idual ly . I f you prefer to have a d ish broi led, for exam ple , but i t doesn 't appear that way on the menu, j ust ask. And do the same if you prefer you r meal cooked without sal t .

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I n addit ion to serv i ng fresh seafood, Parson's makes its own Cheddar cheese d i p, del ic ious ly f lavored wi th wi ne, a touch of garl ic , and several "secret" i ngredi ents. The restau­rant a lso makes its own thousand is land and b leu c heese salad d ress i ngs.

Many com b i nat ion d i n n ers are offered and are favorites among the l ocals. The most lav ish com bi nat ion is the Mayor's Spec ia l , or iginal ly created when Jacksonvi l l e Mayor H ans Tanzler h osted a d i nner for other local d i g n i taries .. The spec ial i n c l udes shr imp cocktai l , oyster cocktai l , more s h ri m p , more oysters, scal lops , devi led crab, ki n g crab, a half F l orida stuffed l o bster, h ushpu ppies, potato and salad. You ' l l not leave h u n g ry.

Several m i l i tary bases are a major part of Jacksonvi l l e's economy, and their personne l are freq uent vis itors at Parson's . The M ayport Naval Base i s c lose by, and the res­taurant draws many g uests from Cecil F ie ld and the Jackson­v i l l e N aval Base, both across the St. Joh ns River on the mai n land. Cel ebrit ies perform i ng at the nearby Al hambra Supper C lub in Mayport are somet imes seen at Parson's, and movie actor George Hami lton became a "reg ular" w h i le he was in town.

M uch of the restaurant's success can be attri buted to the owner's ded i cation. For Aubrey Parson, who purchased i t in 1 965, the restaurant is l i teral ly his l i fe. He's there daily to do the cooki ng, year-round except for Thanksg iv ing and Ch rist­mas. H i s th ree sons manage the d i n i ng roo m on weekends and help with p repari ng the f i ne food.

It's certai n ly worth the ride for this f ish story !

Directions: Parson 's is at 4570 Ocean Street. From Jackson­ville Beach, follow U. S. A 1A north about six miles, towards the St. Johns River Ferry. About a half-mile before the ferry boarding area you will find the restaurant, on the north side of the street.

While You're Here: The Fort Caroline National Monument is a recons truction of the fort from which French adventurers attempted to establish a foothold in the New World in 1564. The Cum mer Gal lery of Art, in town, includes a wide span of European and A merican art, as well as Japanese Netsuke. The Jacksonvi l l e Zoo contains more than 700 species of animals, birds, and reptiles, and also features a m iniature railroad ride.

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DREAM BOAT

Parson's Mayport

3-4 oz. blue crab or king crab, cooked and picked over for shel ls and cart i lage

3-4 oz. mushrooms, sl iced (fresh or canned) 1 0- 1 2 shrimp (30 count), boiled, shelled , and

deveined dabs of butter wild rice, cooked (optional)

Place crab m eat in a layer on bottom of cassero le bak ing d ish . Add layer of m u shrooms . Add l ayer of shr i m p . Spread with dabs of butter and h eat in ove n , about 5 t o 1 0 m i n utes at 300 0 t o 350 O F . I f you w i s h , add w i ld r ice after the shri m p and then spread w i t h butter.

Serves: 1 Preparat ion : 5 m i n utes p lus pre·cook ing t ime for

crab and s h ri m p Cooki n g : 2 - 3 m i n utes i n m i c rowave; 5- 1 0 m i n utes

in convent ional oven

"Quantities may be adjusted according to appetite ! A simple but tasty dish. "

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Parson's Mayport

SEAFOOD AU GRATIN

3-4 oz. red snapper (fi l let), cooked 1 0- 1 2 shrimp (30 count), boiled, shel led, and

deve ined 3-4 oz. blue crab or king crab, cooked and picked

over for shel ls and cart i lage butter or margarine enough thick white sauce to cover (your

favorite recipe) 2-3 oz. cheddar cheese, sl iced or in strips

paprika

Place red snapper i n one end of ob long cassero le d i s h . P l ace s h ri m p i n m id d l e and c rab meat o n other end. Spread with dabs of butter. For Au G rat i n Sauce, f i rst sp read t h i c k wh ite sauce over t o p o f seafood . Then add layer o f Cheddar cheese. Spr ink le with pap ri ka. H eat unt i l warmed t h ro u g h , about 5 to 10 m i n utes at 300 0 to 350 °F .

Serves: 1 Preparat i o n : 5- 1 0 m i n utes p l u s p re-coo k i n g for

seafood and w h ite sauce Cook i n g : 5- 1 0 m i n utes

"A seafood medley designed to make your taste buds sing!"

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Apalac h i cola Harbor Day Fest ival , Fran kl i n County, Fl orida, 1 954 (Flor ida State A rc h i ves)

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S. W. Cowboy's, St. Augusti ne, Florida

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S.'II. Cowboy's

St. Augustine Perhaps the o ldest seafood restau ran t on St . Aug ust i ne

Beach , S.W. Cowboy's was founded in 1 963. It 's a lways busy despite i ts out-of-the-way locat ion , and w i th good reason . Serv ings are more than generous , lots of care goes i nto the preparat ion , and serv ice is always wi th a s m i l e , no matter how crowded the restau rant is .

B i l l Whi te "and company" bought the restau rant from the orig i nal owner, whose i n i t ia ls were S.W. and whose n ickname was "Cowboy." The "and company" is f ive other partners , a l l o f whom have been c lose fr iends for about 20 years. They searched for a busi ness they could manage together and now their fam i l ies are the staff.

These fr iends have done everyt h i n g themselves, from renovat i ng the b u i ld i n g to wri t i n g out the menus on poster board mounted in i nverted , heart-shaped straw fans. They've added a beaut i fu l wood deck i n the garden pat io , a l i t t le fan­tasy cafe area where you can s i p a dr ink w h i l e you wait for d i n ner. German i ums abou nd , and the twi n kly l ig hts stru ng throughout the t rees w i l l make you t h i n k i t 's Chr istmas. I n ­s i d e , t h e macrame canop ies hand-crafted b y t h e fr iends sec­tion off some of the booths for p rivacy, p rovi d i n g a naut ica l , East I n d ies f lavor.

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The l i nes that start to form an hour before Cowboy's opens attest to the restau rant's popu larity, espec ia l ly among locals and tour ists w ho are wise enough to ask w here the locals eat. Be prepared to wait . . . but then, the garden makes it a p leasure .

Seafood i s the specialty, both fr ied and bro i led . It's always fresh as it's a l l caught l ocal ly . The oysters come served w i t h a pa i r of g loves and a k n i fe for you to shuck them yourse l f . They' re pi led up i n a bak i n g t i n that's so enor­mous you're l i kely to offer some to the next tab l e and f ind yourse l f stri k i n g u p a conve rsat ion as a resu l t . "Quickies," as they're cal l ed on the men u, are served w i t hout the extras that accompany the reg u lar d i n ners. Th ey're pop u l ar w i th those who h ave smal le r appetites, but you rea l ly shou ld leave room for dessert e i ther way. The homemade pies are de l ic ious . I t's a joy to d i scover how easy these d i shes are to prepare . One of the partners remarked that he hes i tates to g ive out the rec i pes because no one w i l l be l ieve how s i m p le they are !

Directions: S. W. Cowboy's is on Dondanville Road. From U.S. 1 North or South, take King Street (A 1 A South) to Anasta­sia Island. Stay on A 1 A South about eight miles from down­town St. A ugustine, a half mile south of the Holiday Inn. Signs a t Dondanville Road, on the west side of the s treet, direct you to the restaurant.

While you're here: Particularly if you 're visiting during the summer you 're in luck. A few miles north of Cowboy 's on A 1A is the St. Augustine Amphitheatre, where the s ta te p lay, the Cross and the Sword, is performed. It's a colorful m usical pageant that re-enacts St. A ugustine's founding in 1565 and was written by Pulitzer Prize-winning dramatist Paul Green. Marineland of Florida, with performing porpoises and a chance to hand-feed underwater creatures, is approxima tely 10 miles south of Cowboy's on A 1A.

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S. W. Cowboy's St. A ugus tine

COWBOY'S SPECIAL SHRIMP

(Al low 1 hour to m ari nate ahead)

1 pt. Kraft Catal i na Dressing % t . celery seed (optional) 1 C. lemon j uice 1 t . l iquid smoke 1 T. salt 3 cloves fresh garl ic, chopped 1 lb. medium shrimp, peeled, deveined, spl it , with

tai ls left on rice, cooked

M i x a l l i n g red ie nts together, except s h ri m p, to m ake d ress i n g . M ari nate s h ri m p in t h i s m i xture for an h o u r. Bro i l shri m p u n t i l ta i l s stand u p , abou t 3 m i n utes. Se rve ove r r ice.

Serves: 2-4 Preparat i o n : 20 m i n utes p l u s 1 h o u r to m ari nate Cooki n g : 3 m i n u tes

"You'll sit up and take notice of this sauce. Add parsley for a garnish."

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S. W. Co wboy 's St. Augus tine

COWBOY'S BROILED SNAPPER

1 T. lemon juice 8 oz. red snapper f i l let 1 -2 T. butter or margarine, melted

paprika tartar sauce lemons, s l iced

Pou r lemon j u i ce and me l ted butter over f i s h . Bro i l f o r a few m i n utes o n each s i d e u nt i l tender a n d f laky. Spr i nk le with papri ka and bro i l 5 more secon d s . Serve w i t h tartar sauce a n d s l iced l e m o n s .

Serves : 1 Preparat i o n : 5 m i n u tes Cooki n g : 6- 1 0 m i n u tes

"Simplicity's the secret, and the sauce complements the delicate flavor of the snapper. "

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s. W. Co wboy's St. Augustine

COWBOY'S PINEAPPLE PIE

1 1 6·oz. tub (1 lb.) Cool Whip 1 1 4·oz. can condensed mi lk 1 20·oz. can crushed pineapple % C. pecans, chopped 2 T. lemon ju ice 2 9- inch graham cracker pie crusts

Dra in pi neap p l e . M ix i n g red ients and f i l l p i e s he l l s . Ch i l l and serve.

Y ie lds : 2 p i es Preparat i o n : 5- 1 0 m i n utes p l u s t i m e to c h i l l

"We filled one pie crust and froze the remaining mixture to use as an extra dessert. A delicious and surprising taste treat!"

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O'Steen's

St. Augustine I t 's been said that if good shri m p are to be h ad i n St.

August ine , then O'Steen 's w i l l have them. Back when the Salvadore brothers d i scovered that n ig ht t rawl i ng wou ld y ie ld the sweet, j u m bo p i n k vari ety now cal led St. August i n e shri m p , they p ract ica l ly changed the i n d ust ry overn ight . Com pet i t ion for dock space became extremely cutthroat for a t i me, as shr im pers in the north around J ac ksonvi l l e and i n the south arou nd Key West a lso developed n i ght t raw l i ng techn iq u es.

The restaurant's ori g i nal owner, Bob O'Steen, had been a rai l road man and had gone on strike with the Florida East Coast Rai lway when wealthy f i nanc ier Ed Bal l wou ldn 't g ive the workers a raise. Bob's fo l ks had operated a restau rant d u r­i ng Worl d War I I , and he had pedd led crab cakes on the street d u ring the Dep ress ion . So, armed with rec i pes from h is mother, he went i nto bus i ness for h i mself .

Meanw h i le , J oan na, one of the daug hters i n the Salvadore fam i ly , married Lon n i e Po mar, the p resent owner. Lon n i e had started as a b u s boy at O'Steen 's when he was j u st a l ad and , over the years , worked h i mself a l l the way to the top.

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This modest bus i ness doesn ' t advert i se i n any tou rist­or iented p u b l i cat ions yet neverthe less serves a f u l l house at every meal . As a test i mo n i al to the owner's p ledge to pro­vide good food at good val ue , locals jest that when the pr ime lend i n g rate goes up a po int , the l i ne outs ide gets fou r feet longer. Actua l ly , the l i ne outs ide is usual ly long . Reserva­t ions are taken at the w i ndow when you arrive. O r, if you don't want to f ight the crowds, you can cal l in a carry-out order ahead of t i me.

The i nter ior i s cheery w i th a den- l i ke feel i n g and f i rep lace. Pai nt i ngs by local art ists of beach scenes and pe l i cans decorate the wal l s . There are dai ly specia ls at su per- low pri ces and spec ia l p ri ces for c h i l d ren 's serv ings . I ng red i ents are fresh , and f rom h i s years of experience, Lon n ie can i n ­stant ly t e l l whether t h e catch i s recent . Freq uent ly chan g i n g t h e cook ing o i l i s t h e secret t o t h e good color on the shr imp . The bread i ng i s l ig ht , a n i ce change from the "heavy" shri m p served e l sewhere.

There 's a cho ice of cocktai l sauces for you r seafood : the m i ld sauce, w h i c h is p i n k as a resu l t of add i ng mayonna ise, or the hot sauce. When you r wait ress te l l s you it 's hot, don ' t forget what she says . . . hot i s hot ! But hot sauce and dat i l peppers (a reg i onal favorite fou nd o n l y i n S t . George Cou nty) go hand i n hand i n St. August ine , and t h i s i s one of the best p laces to e njoy them.

Directions: O'Steen 's is located at 205 Anastasia Boule­vard. From U.S. 1 North or South, turn east on King Street (A 1 A South), through downtown and across the Bridge of Lions. The road is now called Anastasia Boulevard, which you simply follow to the restaurant, on the south side of the street. The reseNations and take-out window is on the side of the restaurant.

While you're here: After you've toured historic St. A ugustine, enjoy the miles of wide, hard-packed sand beaches on Ana­stasia Island and at the Anastasia State Park, which offers a variety of outdoor recreation. Coquina quarries on the island have provided shellrock for construction since 1600; many such structures still stand in the restored area. This is an ideal destination for walkers and bicyclists !

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Q'Steen's St. Augustine

DEVILED CRABS

1 lb. blue crab claw meat 1 small onion, diced 1 small bel l pepper, diced 2 stalks celery, d iced 4 regular hamburger rol ls, ground into crumbs % t. salt 1 t. pepper 1 t . thyme 2 large dat i l peppers * , ground (or any other hot

pepper) oil for frying

Pick over crab carefu l ly to re move any s h e l l or cart i l age. Set as ide. Co m b i ne al l other i n g red ients except o i l . Gent ly fo ld i n c rab meat. Pat i n to cakes about 2 % i n c h e s in d iameter. Heat o i l to 400 of. and caref u l l y s l i p cakes i n . Deep fry for t h ree or four m i n utes. Dra i n and se rve i m m ed i ately.

Yie lds: 12 patt ies , about 2 % i n c h es in d i ameter Preparat ion : 1 0- 1 5 m i n utes Cook ing : 3-4 m i n utes per batch

"These spicy crab cakes are perfect served with a red cocktail sauce or chili sauce. You can double the recipe for a crowd or make smaller cakes for finger hors d'oeuvres. "

·See Appendix : Florida Foods (Mi norcan Specialties).

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SUPER SHRIMP SAUCE

1 C. mayonnaise % C. catsup 1 oz. Worcestershire 1 oz. horseradish % oz. A.B. hot sauce

M i x thoro u g h ly and serve.

Preparat i o n : 5 m i n utes Y ie lds : 2 c u p s

Q 'Steen 's St. Augustine

"This is light in color because of the mayonnaise, but don 't be deceived-it 's VER Y tangy!"

- NOTES -

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Vilano Seafood Shack

St. Augustine The V i lano Seafood Shack i s no except ion to the

p revalent use of dat i l peppers in rec i pes at St. Aug ust i ne 's restau rants. The emphasis i s on seafood , and what the dat i l pepper does for t h e Shack's c lam chowder, c rab meat stuffed m ushrooms, and crab meat stuff ing w i l l turn f i rst-t i mers i nto t rue bel i evers. The combi nat ion of the season i n g s a long with the freshest of fresh she l l f i sh i s the "secret . "

The Shack's owners, Nathan and Cynth ia Vestal , have taken their cottage-l i ke bu i ld ing , that was orig i nal ly constructed as a service stat ion i n the 1 920s, and converted it i nto an i nformal eatery. Its locat ion is a qu iet beach sett ing , great for enjoying cool ocean breezes. The re latively u ntouched seren i ty of V i lano Beach makes the Seafood Shack's locat ion a prize that one doesn't want to see changed. P icn ic tables and beamed cei l i ngs reflect the casual atmosphere of the com m u nity.

Cindy Vestal has worked c losely with outstan d i n g chefs at such wel l -known resorts as I n n i sbrook, in Tarpon Spri ngs . N athan's expert ise comes from years of exper ience wi th French chefs, and he personal ly chooses the best f ish from the docks between M ayport (near Jacksonvi l le) and Ponce

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I n let (by Daytona Beach) . H i s specialty i s saute i ng and bro i l ­i ng , although l i g ht ly battered , deep-fr ied seafood is a lso avai lable . You ' l l not ice the d i fference i n taste that t ru ly fresh seafood has after you 've sam pled what some restaurants of­fer and cal l fresh .

One of t h e most p l easant aspects o f a meal a t the V i lano Seafood Shack is the personal attent ion from Ci ndy and Nathan. They enjoy chatt i ng wi th g uests, making them feel r ight at home. On Sundays i t 's typical for fam i l i es to stay on the beach unt i l m i d -afternoon ; then they am b le i nto the Shac k for champagne and de l i c ious food. There's a specia l c h i l d re n 's men u , too.

Seasonal items are offered when they are avai lab le , i n ­c l ud i ng Cedar Key stone crab c laws, b l ue c rab, and local c lams that are steamed. I f you don't see a part i c u lar k i nd of preparat ion you l i ke on the men u , j ust ask. I f al l the i n gre­d ients are on hand , you can have your d i sh f i xed any way you l i ke.

And w h i l e you ' re d i n i ng , take t i m e to look at the pai n t i ngs and photographs by local s i ngers Bob and Jo lene Patterson , and other local art i sts. As you ' l l read on the menu , these seascapes are a rem i nder to us to "preserve what man k ind d i d not create . "

Directions: The Vilano Seafood Shack is at 111 Vilano Road. From U. S. 1 North or South, take A 1A North to Vilano Beach, a half mile east of the Vilano Beach Bridge. Where A 1A makes a gO-degree turn north, look for the Seafood Shack, which is right at the corner.

While you're here: Do see the old town of St. Augustine. It's the oldest permanent settlement in the United States (Pen­sacola's the oldest orig i nal settlement), much of which has been restored so authentically that no cars are allowed on certain streets. A fter you 've visited San Agustin Antiguo with its colonial period shops and craft demonstrations, see the huge Castil lo de San Marcos fortress and the jail. Don 't miss the ornate buildings created by Henry Flagler, the wealthy developer of the late 1800s: the Lightner Museum and Flagler Col lege are both housed in buildings that used to be ex­travagant hotels Flagler conceived. They're monumental classics of American Renaissance architectural styles.

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Vi/ano Seafood Shack St. Augustine

THE SHACK'S SHRIMP AND SCALLOP SAUTE

1 oz. butter % small onion, finely chopped 1 clove garlic, finely chopped 8-1 0 scal lops

approximately 6 mushrooms, sl iced 8 shrimp, peeled, deveined, and butterfl ied 1 oz. Tamari sauce *

ju ice of % lemon dash white pepper chopped parsley brown rice, cooked

Sau te f i rst four i n g redi ents u nt i l scal l o ps are part i a l l y d o n e . A d d s h ri m p , Tamari sauc e , l e m o n j u i c e and pepper. Saute a l i tt l e longer u n t i l s h ri m p are done. Spri nk le chop ped pars ley ove r top for c o lor. Serve ove r brown r ice .

Serves: 2 Preparat i o n : 5 m i n utes Coo k i n g : 5-7 m i n utes

UFor variation, add fresh cauliflower or broccoli flowerettes before adding shrimp."

* Avai lable in health food stores

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A

Vi/ano Seafood Shack St. A ugustine

BROCCOLI CREPES

1 2 crepes · 2 heads broccol i 1 smal l onion, diced 4 T. butter 3 T. f lour 2 C. mi lk 3 cloves garlic, minced

salt and pepper to taste 6 oz. Swiss cheese, shredded

M ake your favorite reC i pe for 1 2 c re pes and set as ide. Steam fresh brocco l i and c ho p f l owerettes with some of the stem s . Saute o n i o n s in butter. Add f l o u r and st i r for a m i n ute or two. S l owly add m i l k, s t i rri n g constant ly . When m i x t u re i s t h i c k , add brocco l i , garl i c , salt and peppe r. Cook approx i m ate ly 5 m i n utes, s t i rr ing constant ly . Rol l c repes w i t h f i l l i n g . P l ace i n a b uttered , ove n-proof d i s h o r pan. S p ri n k le with Sw i ss c h eese. Bake for about 5 m i n utes at 350 OF . or j u st l o n g e n o u g h to warm t h ro u g hout and to melt c h eese.

Serves: 4-6 Preparat i o n : 1 5 m i n utes (p l u s t i me to m ake c repes) Coo k i n g : 1 5 m i n utes

"This is a delicately seasoned dish. What a way to present broccoli! You can make it ahead, refrigerate, and pop in the oven just before serving. Your guests will rave !"

' See g lossary

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Robert's Dock

Lake Cify It wou ld be natural to expect towns located near the i n ­

tersect ion o f two major i nterstate h i g hways t o be bust l i n g metropol ises o r subu rbs o f some large c i t ies . I nstead, Lake City and the other commun it ies near the j un ct ion of 1 -75 and 1 - 10 are genteel remi nders of an "und iscovered " Florida. They're the heart of Suwannee River Country , pop u l arized i n t he songs of Stephen Foster.

Amid peacefu l rivers where there is am p le opportun ity for q u iet f ish i ng, there is sti l l growth . There are smal l town com­m u n ity and recreat ional fac i l i t ies, Jaycees act iv i t ies, and a surpri si ng ly busy l i t t le ai rport.

J ust across f rom the ai rport is one of the hal l marks of the reg ion's home-sty le restau rants, Robert's Dock. Owners Robert and Emmie Chasteen have brought the i r who le fami ly i nto the act. Many of the rec i pes came from Robert 's mother, whose p i neapp le coconut cake was a h i t i n a local bak i n g contest . A l l o f t h e salad dress i ngs are homemade, too. 80th Robert's mother and g rand mother had always been good cooks, and Robert had long d reamed of own i ng a restau rant wh i le he was an in terior decorator. When the chance to pur-

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chase what used to be Dave's Oyster Bar came along , Robert j umped and attract ively remodeled the bu i l d i n g . Today North Florida Living cal l s h i s restau rant one of the "top 1 0" i n that part of the state.

A nat ive of Lake City, Robert is a natural for serv ing good Southern cooki ng , espec ia l ly after l iv i ng i n the country al l h i s l i fe. H i s ori g i nal i dea was t o have a steak house. B u t he observed that more people here seem to prefer seafood when they d ine out because they th i nk i t can be t i me-consu m i ng to prepare at home. H ence, the menu ref lects both Southern d ishes and seafood , a l l artfu l ly prepared . H i s secret for vegetab les, he says, is to add a speck of sugar i n each rec i pe to cut down the ac id f lavor.

Robert 's young daug hter is on ly one of the faces around th is restau rant we l l -known to reg u lars . CBS sportscaster and Super Bowl annou ncer Pat Sum mera l l cal ls Lake City home and is a freq uent patron . The restau rant is a favorite w i th sc uba d ivers exp lor ing the nearby Ichetucknee and other fresh-water spri ngs .

The vote for best d ish on the menu is Robert's Seafood Cassero le , served at d i n ner only , becau se it takes so long to prepare. It featu res shri m p, crab meat, and sca l lops i n a th ick, creamy base . . . de l i c ious !

Directions: From /- 75 take U.S. 90 east through town, about three miles out. Robert's Dock is on the north side of the road, across from the airport. Or, from 1- 10, take either U. S. 4 1 o r 44 1 into town, and turn east on U.S. 90, as above.

While you're here: There 's plenty to do in the Suwannee River Valley. There 's the Stephen Foster Memorial at White Springs, tubing down the clear Ichetucknee River, and the Battle of Olustee Festival each February. This festival presents a re-enactment of the largest Civil War battle fought on Florida soil, one of the South 's larges t victories. Florida Bicycle Tours originate here and head through the bes t of the state's back roads and foo thills. They offer guided weekend and week-long trips, year-round, for every level of experience. Trips include visits to coun try lodgings, garden clubs, historical societies, and sometimes the homes of folk­singers, cloggers, and storytellers. Write to P.O. Drawer P, White Springs, FL 32096, for schedule information. Tell 'em we sent ya!

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Robert's Dock Lake City

ROBERT'S SEAFOOD CASSEROLE

% lb. cooked shrimp, peeled and deveined % lb. cooked crab meat, picked over for shells and

cartilage % lb. cooked scal lops 1 can cream of m ushroom soup 1 can cream of celery soup 4 hard·boiled eggs, diced 1f4 C. d iced pimiento 1f4 C. white wine, semi ·sweet 2 T. Worcestershire 1 large bell pepper } 1 large onion chopped, sauteed in butter 6 cel ery stalks until onion is t ranslucent

Seasoned Salt and pepper to taste 6 C. cooked rice % C. mayonnaise 1 box Ritz Crackers, crushed

melted butter

M ix al l seafood toget her. Add sou ps, eggs, p im iento, w i ne, and Worcestersh i re sauce. Stir in sauteed onion, pepper, and ce lery. Add Seasoned Salt and pepper to taste. Add cooked r ice. B lend in mayon naise. Add enough Ritz Cracker cru m bs to make m ixtu re the consistency of cornbread d ress ing . Bake i n a bu ttered casserole d i sh at 375 of. for 30 m i nutes or u nt i l it beg ins to bubble .

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Robert's Dock Lake City

Top with rest of c rac ker crum bs. Drizz le w i th melted butter and cook u n t i l brown.

Serves: approx imately 1 2 Preparat ion : 20 m i n utes Cook ing : 30-40 m i n utes

"This is a delicious casserole for a crowd; however, you can cut the recipe in half with excellent results. It's a specialty at Robert's Dock and can be yours, too!"

- NOTES -

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Robert's Dock Lake City

MOM'S CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS ·

1 large fryer chicken, cut up 2 qts. water 1 onion, diced 6 stalks of celery, diced

salt and pepper to taste

Place c h i c ken and rest of i n g red ients in a large pot. Add enough wate r to cover, about 2 q uarts. B ri ng to a boi l . Sk im wh ite res idue off top. Lower heat and boi l gent ly unt i l tender, about 40 m i n utes. S k i m res idue from t i me to t i me. Remove ch icken fro m broth and coo l . Remove ch icken fro m bones and c u t up i n b i tesize p ieces. Taste broth for seaso n i n g s a n d adj u st i f necessary. Add c h icken bac k to brot h . Bri n g broth to boi l and add d u m p l i ng s :

DUMPLINGS

3 C. plain flour % t. salt 1 heaping T. Crisco or other shortening 1 C. water

mi lk

Sift f lour and sa l t together. Add s horte n i n g and m i x wel l . Add water and m ix u n t i l dough is e last ic and smooth . D iv ide dough and ro l l on f loured board unt i l th in . Rub f lour ac ross top and cut i n ob long str ips. Add to boi l i n g broth and boi l 5 m i n utes.

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Robert's Dock Lake City

Add boned ch ic ken and m i l k, if necessary, to bri n g i t to des i red cons istency . M ixture wi l l t h ic ken as it s i ts.

Serves: 4-6 Preparat ion : ch icke n - 1 0 m i n utes;

d u m p l i ngs - 1 5 m i n utes Cooking : c h icken - 30-45 m i n utes;

d u m p l i n g s - 5 m i n utes

"As you can see, dumplings come in different shapes and sizes ! This is a delicious down·home, stick·to· your·ribs meal in a pot. Leaving the chopped vegetables in the broth adds extra flavor, but you can remove them to serve on the side. You can do this recipe in steps, cooking the chicken the day before and making the dumplings just before you are ready to serve. "

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Robert's Dock Lake City

HONEY FRENCH DRESSING (SWEET AND SOUR)

% C. tomato catsup % C. vinegar % C. honey

dash Worcestershire pinch ground cloves

3 T. f inely grated onions pinch salt

1 C. salad o i l

Place a l l i n g re d i e nts except o i l i n a m i x i n g bowl or food processo r. M i x toget her and beat wel l . Add o i l s lowly , d rop by d ro p , beat i n g constant ly . Beat u n t i l d ress ing is t h i c k a n d creamy. Store i n a cove red jar in refr igerato r.

Y ie lds : 2 c u p s Preparat ion : 1 0 m i n u tes

"This dressing is good, not only for your tossed salads, but it also goes wonderfully well on chicken. Marinate the chicken in the dressing for an hour; then bake in the marinade-tangy and tantalizing!"

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Mama Lo's

Gainesville One of the f i rst p laces locals i nvariab ly ment ion when

asked where to go in Gainesvi l le for down-home cookin' at a good price is Mama Lo's. It 's defin i te ly an i n stitut ion among students and sou l and Southern food lovers.

Mama Lo is Lori ne Alexander, whose mother and grand­mother also fed these Gai nesvi l le people over the years. Though the restau rant seats on ly 35, M ama Lo serves 200 or more g uests at every meal . Somehow, she manages to organize the preparation of about 1 5 entrees, 1 5 or 20 vegetables, s ide d i shes, and homemade pies and cakes-al l in a kitchen no larger than a typical home k itchen.

Not on ly are the choices varied, but yo u ' re g iven g igant ic servi ngs for very l ow prices. You ' l l not go away h u ngry after devou ring stuffed peppers, ch i t lins (p ig 's i n sides, far more tasty than the name sounds), smoked sausage and yams, col lard greens, b lackeyed peas, and on and on.

Mama Lo decides on each day's selection early in the morn ing . She writes menus out in long hand for each of the e ight tables. The rest of the day she spends cooki ng , her way of I ife for more than 1 7 years.

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Most of the students who frequent her restau rant are from the U n i versity of Florida. Thei r off ic ia l mascot is the a l l i gator, and the reg ion 's n ickname, appropriately, is "Gator Country." Th is is because 'gators are commonly attracted to s i nkhol es, often found in the area and fo rmed when land co l l apses and f i l l s with rain -water. Between the rept i les and the s i nkho les, the students have p lenty to poke fun at, but one t h i ng's for certai n - they're avid fans of Mama Lo's cooki ng.

You w i l l be, too.

Directions: Mama La's is at 618 N W 6th Street. Take SR 24 (Archer Road) east from 1-75. SR 24 merges into U.S. 44 1 (13th Street). Stay on 44 1 past the University of Florida campus (on the left) and turn east on N W 5th A venue. Then turn north on N W 6th Street to address. Mama La's is on the west side of the street, across from the police sta tion.

While you're here: One of the major sinkholes tha t provides insight into geologic formations is the Devi l's Mi l lhopper site, just north of town on SR 232. It's popular for cave diving and nature trail hiking. Or you can arrange for a guided ranger walk. Eleven miles south on U.S. 44 1 is the 1 8, 000-acre Paynes Prairie State Preserve, a fresh-water marsh with guided walks. The Preserve was named for the Seminole chief who fought for the property some 200 years after the Tim ucuan chief Vitachuco died defending it against the Spaniards.

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CHICKEN AND RICE

Mama Lo 's Gainesville

2 small frying chickens, cut into serving pieces . 1 % qts. water 1 bell pepper, chopped 1 stalk celery (including leaves), chopped 1 medium onion, chopped 4 cubes chicken boui llon

salt and pepper to taste 2 Ibs. raw rice (Uncle Ben's or your favorite brand)

yel low food coloring (optional)

Com bine al l i n g red ients except rice and food colori ng i n a large pot. Cook, covered, over med i u m heat for 35 m i n utes. Add rice and an add i t ional q uart of water. Cover and s immer another 25 m i n utes. Add food colori ng if des i red and taste for season i ngs .

Serves: 1 0- 1 5 Preparat ion : 1 5 m i n utes Cooking : 50 m i n utes

HThis is a simple but tasty dish. It is easy to cut the amount of ingredients to make a family·sized dish. "

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Mama Lo 's Gainesville

STRING BEANS

3 1 6·oz. cans string beans, drained 1 qt. water 1 small on ion, diced 1 0 small white potatoes, diced 1 T. butter

salt and pepper to taste

Dra in j u ice from cans of stri ng beans . P lace a l l i ngredients i n large pot a n d cook u n t i l on ions and potatoes are tender, about 15 to 20 m i n utes.

Serves : 8- 1 0 Preparat ion : 5- 1 0 m i n u tes Cooki n g : 1 5-20 m i n u tes

"A quick side dish."

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Mama Lo's Gainesville

OLD-FASHIONED SWEET POTATOES

4 large sweet potatoes, cooked, peeled, and sliced, or a 1 ·lb. can of sweet potatoes, drained and sliced

2 C. sugar 3 C. water 1 T. vani l la

pinch nutmeg % T. lemon juice 1 T. butter

Lay out sweet potato s l ices in a buttered bak i n g d i sh or pan. Mix rema i n i n g ingredients, except butter, and pour over potatoes. Dot with butter. Place i n ove n and bake for 35 m i n utes at 350 ° F.

Serves : 6-8 Preparat ion : 1 0 m i n utes Cook ing : 35 m i n utes

"The potatoes will have an intriguing sweet taste but will not be candied."

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Mama Lo 's Gainesville

HOPPINGJOHN

1 lb. blackeyed peas 3·4 thick s l ices salt pork 6 C. water 1 lb. Uncle Ben's rice

salt and pepper to taste 1 T. butter

pinch sugar

M ix b lackeyed peas and salt pork in water and boi l gent ly for 30 m i n utes. Add remai n i n g i n g redients and s i mmer for 35 m i n utes longer. Add add i t ional water as needed , stir often.

Serves: 6 Preparat ion : 30 m i n utes Cook ing : 35 m i nu tes

"This is a classic and very traditional soul food dish."

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GARDEN SALAD

Mama La's Gainesville

1 head lettuce, broken into small pieces by hand 1 cucumber, th in ly s l iced % bell pepper, thinly s l iced 1 carrot, thinly s l iced 2 tomatoes, th in ly s l iced % stalk celery, chopped

Toss a l l i n g red ients . Serve w i t h homemad e d ress i n g below.

MAMA LO'S HOMEMADE DRESSING

% C. mayonnaise 1 T. vinegar 1 T. sugar 1 T. Worcestershire % C. tomato catsup % t. garlic powder

salt to taste

M i x a l l i n g red i e nts and st i r w e l l . Ch i l l .

Serves: 6-8 Preparat i o n : 1 0 m i n utes p l u s t i m e to c h i l l

"This is nearly a meal in itself. The dressing is reminiscent of a Louis dressing (for crab or shrimp Louis salad). Serve with a hot or cold soup and French bread or bread sticks. "

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c: c: (l) C/l o E a: (l)

� - I-

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The Primrose Inn

Gainesville Thomas Wol fe , wr it i n g i n You Can't Go Home A gain, says,

"Some t h i ngs w i l l never c hange. Some t h i ng s w i l l a lways be the same. Lean down your ear u pon the eart h , and l i sten . "

So it seems wi th T h e Primrose Inn , founded b y M rs. Byron Wi nn , Sr., i n 1924, later owned by her son, Byron Wi nn , J r. (a Un ivers ity of Florida grad uate and mayor of Gainesvi l l e i n 1963), and now owned b y John M cCraw. Joh n , or Jack, a s t h e reg u l ars cal l h i m , d i d n't want t o change a good t h i n g when he bou g ht the restau rant in the mi d-1970s. Chef Boston Cobb and several others of the or iginal staff are sti l l at the Inn today. The menu sti l l l i ves u p to i ts reputat ion for tasty home-sty le food at reasonable pr ices, and the exterior b lend of st ick sty le and stone arc h i tecture is the same though the i nterior has been renovated and en larged several t i mes.

Just ask "Cous in" Thelma Bo l t in . The w h ite-haired grande dame of the Florida Folk Festival has been a several -t i mes-a­week customer for years and years. I t's a favorite a lso w i th " Florida's Troubadour," Gambl e Rogers. I f you catch e i ther of t hem there, you may be treated to an earfu l of memorable tales and fol klore about the state!

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Now Jack Mc Craw, though he hai ls from A l abama and the U n iversi ty of Te nnessee, has found that many o ld U n iversi ty of Flor ida g rads st i l l re member The Pri mrose I n n . The yeast ro l l s were a b ig h i t i n the o ld days, and they st i l l are, to the tune of some 1 ,500 a day. They used to be served w i th syrup and honey, but then t here wou ldn ' t be many of the great desserts so l d . "My mother used to make 'em," says Jack. "We sti l l punch them out of the dou g h by hand . "

Dai ly spec ia ls and typed i n serts on t h e menu offer a fu l l range o f F lor ida and Southern home cook i n g . There's everyt h i n g from catfi sh and m u l let to scal l oped eggp lant , c heese g rits, and sal mon c roquettes. And because the b u i l d i n g i tself was once used for accommodat ions as we l l a s meal s , i t st i l l has t h e cozy feel i n g of home, from t h e f i re­p lace in the lobby to the large, L-shaped d i n i n g area.

When M rs . Winn f i rst estab l i shed the restau ran t, i t was popular to use names of f l owers and trees for new bus i ­nesses. I n the years si nce, The Pri m rose Inn has become a Gai nesv i l l e i n st i tut ion .

Directions: The Primrose Inn is at 214 West University A venue (SR 26). From 1-75 north or sou th, take the SR 26 exit east past the university campus, all the way into downtown to address. Or, from U. S. 44 1 north or south, turn east on University A venue to address.

While you're here: Gainesville 's main "industry " is the Un iversity of Florida, the s tate's oldest. It 's a challenge not to get los t among the original and the new buildings. Don 't miss the Florida State Museum, among the top 1 0 natural history museums in the country and the top in the South. The University Art Gal lery is also noteworthy. Or just drive leisurely around some of the residential neighborhoods, which are gracefully shaded by lush green oaks on gently rolling terrain.

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The Primrose Inn Gainesville

SCALLOPED EGGPLANT

1 eggplant, peeled and diced % stick margarine or butter % gallon mi lk 5 eggs % green pepper, chopped 1 t . chopped pimiento 1 medium onion, chopped 1 C. bread crumbs 1 C. crushed salt ine crackers 1 4-6 oz. can Parmesan cheese

salt and pepper to taste grated sharp or mi ld Cheddar cheese.

Boi l eggp lant u n t i l j u st tend er. Dra in and m as h . Add m argari ne . Set as ide . Com b i ne eggs and m i l k w i th the re mai n i n g i n g red ients (except Cheddar c heese) and m i x wel l . Po ur m i xt u re i n to a buttered bak i n g d i s h . Spread even ly a n d spr i nk le w i th g rated Cheddar cheese. Bake in 350 OF. ove n for 30 m i n utes or u n t i l brow n on t o p . I t w i l l have the text u re of a souff le .

Serves: 4-6 Preparat i o n : 1 5-20 m i n u tes Coo k i n g : 30 m i n u tes

"This goes well with broiled steak and sliced tomatoes. "

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The Primrose Inn Gainesville

CORNBREAD DRESSING

1 pan corn bread (your favorite recipe), crumbled % as much bread, crumbled 2 T. chicken base or bouil lon % small onion, chopped 1 stick celery, chopped

sage, to taste 2 eggs, s l ightly beaten % stick margarine or butter

paprika

M ix cornbread and bread toget her u s i n g a fork. Com b i n e c h i c ken base, o n i o n , and ce lery , and st ir i n to bread m i xt u re. Spri n k l e l i g ht ly with sage. St i r i n eggs. Add m i xt u re t o a g reased bak i n g pan and spread eve n l y . Dot with margari n e or butter and sp ri n k l e with papri ka. Bake 1 5-20 m i n utes i n a 350 OF. oven .

Serves : 5 Preparat i o n : 1 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : 1 5-20 m i n utes

"This is a winner as an accompaniment to pork or chicken. Or, stuff your turkey with it and it will indeed be 'gobbled'!"

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The Yearling

Cross Creek The trad i t ional f lavors of Florida, as recorded by Pu l i tzer

Prize-w i n n i ng author Marjorie Ki nnan Raw l i ngs, are kept al ive at The Yearl i ng . Although the restau rant is s l i g ht ly fanc ier and a l i tt le h igher pr iced than most of the others i n ou r co l l ec­t ion, its roots are as Cracker Florida as you can f ind .

Cross Creek is typ ical of the k ind of smal l town that used to be prevalent al l over the state. Sure, there are sti l l many f ish i ng v i l lages and qu iet com mun i t ies, but we tend to forget about them i n the sweep of "progress" along the coastl i ne and its burgeon ing populat ion centers. M eanwhi le, at The Yearl i ng , owners Pat and H erb Herman have p layed host to everyone from the late M rs. Raw l i ngs ' husband to local s and patrons from the furthest corners of the state.

Back i n the 1 930s, the period about wh ich M rs . Raw l i ngs wrote so much, her ne ighbor Boss Br ice used to host out­doorsmen who came to h u nt , f ish , and enjoy the i r catch . It 's much the same today with the H ermans. There are seven cozy l i t t le cab ins where guests can stay. M rs . Herman te l l s about some J apanese v is i tors w h o came for a weekend and became so fasci nated with the stories told by one of the

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teenagers who g rew u p around M rs. Raw l i ngs that they stayed three weeks !

The Hermans' interest i n food and agri c u l t u re g oes back to the i r 27 years in the pou l t ry bus i ness i n North Flor ida. Now ret i red from that endeavor, they take g reat p l easure i n i ntrod uc ing newcomers to nat ive foods served i n a grac ious envi ronment . The "Cross Creek Spec ia l " i s a tasty sel ect ion of catf ish , frog legs , and cooter, a l l l i ght ly breaded and fr ied . Cooter i s what the nat ives cal l the soft-she l led turt le , a de l i cacy about wh ich M rs. Raw l i ng s was part i c u larly en ­th us iast ic . I t 's an ed u cat ion to read how M rs . Raw l i ngs and her Cross Creek ne igh bors obta ined and prepared the i n g re­d ients at hand in the woods. But of course, the Hermans do have the advantage of eas ier methods of pre parat ion . Adja­cent to the restau rant , The Yearl i ng 's g i ft shop has a l l of M rs. Raw l i ngs ' books, i n c l ud i ng Cross Creek Cookery, as we l l as other souve n i rs. Many of the ori g i na l Cross Creek rec i pes read j ust l i ke s hort stories.

L ife i n these parts has been i m mortal ized on f i l m in the 1 983 prod uct ion of Cross Creek by Robert Rad n i tz Prod uc­t i ons i n Cu lver C i ty, Cal i forn i a. Fo l ks at The Yearl i ng and i n town were thr i l l ed to enterta i n the cast and the crew d u ri n g t h e f i l m i ng . T h e Yearl i n g is a f i ne locat i o n both t o savor Cracker food and to e njoy the outdoors and the H ermans.

Directions: Driving from Gainesville, take 1- 75 south to SR 20. Turn south (right) where 20 intersects with Route 325, by the Lochloosa Wildlife Managemen t Area. I t 's about eight miles on 325 to The Yearling, which is on your right.

While you're here: The Marjorie Kinnan Rawli ngs State H istorical Site is the author's restored Cracker home. No tice how the kitchen is set off by a breezeway. This prevents cooking hea t from raising the temperature in the rest of the house. Cross Creek's location between Lochloosa and Orange Lakes is grea t for fishing, especially for bass, speckled perch, and bream.

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CROSS CREEK SPECIAL

The Yearling Cross Creek

catf ish, cleaned (scrape out s i lky black inside from stomach with a spoon)

frog legs (buy already skinned and cut off feet) cooter (buy in 1 to 3- lb. pieces and cut into

port ions l i ke ch icken) self·ris ing f lour, or cornmeal for dipping mi lk cooking o i l

Keep cooter or f rog legs covered w i th ice c u bes from 1 to 4 hours i n re fr igerator u n t i l ready to use. Th is tenderizes the meat and takes away some of the gamey f lavor. (I n Cross Creek Cookery M rs . Raw l i ngs ' rec i pe s uggests add i n g 2 tablespoons lemon j u ice or vi negar for every pound of frog legs.) S im p l y d i p l i gh t l y i n f lour o r corn meal , f l u f f i ng w i t h t h e f i ngers. Shake off the excess f lour.

For the f rog legs , f l uf f f i rst i n f lour, then d i p i n m i l k, and aga in i n f lour. The cat f ish and cooter need to be d i pped on ly in f lou r or corn meal . M rs . H erman recom mends deep fat f ry i n g for cat f i sh , p referably d i pped in corn meal f i rst ; pan f ry i ng for cooter f l u ffed in f lour, and deep fat f ry i ng for f rog legs . Fry to a n i ce go lden brow n .

Serves: al low 6-8 oz. per serv ing Preparat ion : 5- 1 0 m i n utes p lus 1 to 4 hours c h i l l i ng

for cooter or frog legs ; 5 m i n utes for catf i s h (after c lean ing)

Cook i n g : 5 - 6 m i n utes f o r cat f ish o r f rog legs ; 45 m i n utes for cooter

"In Cross Creek Cookery, Mrs. Rawlings suggests adding a whole beaten egg and fine bread crumbs to the flour. And instead of oil for frying, she used Dora 's butter, a rich, flavorful butter from a favorite Jersey cow. "

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Johnson's

Cedar Key A century ago, with a popu lation of 5,000, Cedar Key was

Florida's second largest c i ty. Before the Civ i l War there was a boom i n g rai l road con nect ion -the f i rst major one i n the state-with Fernan d i na Beach , on the east coast . Eberhard Faber had beg u n to develop a sawm i l l for sh i pments to h i s N e w Jersey penc i l factory.

But as with so many smal l towns of 1 9th-century Florida, boom days were fo l lowed by busts. Over the years the popu lat ion dwind led to about 800. Cedar Key is now a town where peop le come to s low down , to unwind . Madge John­son , a Cedar Key res ident v irtual ly al l her l i fe, w i l l tel l you there's not much to do except go f ish i n g , c lam m i ng or crab­b ing , hunt ing , or operate a restaurant.

I ndeed, operat i n g her own restaurant is how she and her s ister, Catheryn Gautreau, spend their t i me . They al so have a f ish market , downstairs from the restaurant . Other fam i ly mem bers he lp out i n both bus inesses.

"Th is l i t t le restaurant is l i ke an American d ream , " M adge says. For many years she had hel ped her h usband gather and prod uce seafood d i shes. She even took their f i s h i n g

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boat out a lone on occas ion , somet h i ng that many women d id n 't often do, she says.

There's an a l most mystical sense about the Cedar Keys that makes one fee l sec ure , even though the town is so remote from any other c i ty. Some bel ieve the atmosphere af­fects the f lavo r of the seafood. But M adge exp la i n s that the combi nat ion of fresh and salt water in three bod ies of water causes the oysters, for exam ple , to grow at tremendous speed. They al ready have a sa l ty taste, so you don 't need to add more. Typ ica l ly , the soft-she l led crabs ava i lable here * are tender and sweet . Another local speci alty i s red f ish chowder, but i f red f ish i sn 't avai lable , gro u per may be used as a subst it ute.

The atmosphere at Johnson's is casua l , as i s everyt h i n g about Cedar Key. B u t there's noth i n g casual about t h e s ize of the serv ings . "No one goes away h u n g ry ," Madge says, "but I don 't know how they eat i t al l ! " Actua l ly , the "half d i n­ners" are p lenty and are popu lar among those with less hearty appet ites.

The house s pecia l ty is cal l ed the Mo l ly Brown Specia l . I t 's i n such g reat demand that as many as 75 private p lanes a day have been known to f ly i n to p ick u p these d i n n ers. I t 's a fou r-course feast wh ich i n c l udes a seafood cocktai l , stone crabs, Cedar Key's famous hearts of pal m salad (pop u larly known as swam p cabbage), and a heap i n g p l ate of assorted seafood. Smal l wonder!

Directions: From U.S. 19/98 North or South, take SR 24 West at Otter Creek. It 's 23 miles to Cedar Key along an almost to tally undeveloped straight stretch of road through clumps of saba I palm, cypress, and cedar. The road is unlit. Once you get to Cedar Key, follo w signs to the pier. The whole island is only about a mile long and a half-mile wide, so you 'll have a hard time getting lost.

While you're here: The Cedar Key State M useum is a little less than two miles north of SR 24 and con tains exhibits of household artifacts from the to wn 's past. If you 're in town mid-April for the annual Cedar Key Art Festival or mid­October for the Seafood Festival, you'll see an o therwise sleepy village wake up and take on an animated character. The art festival is one of the best known in the state. The seafood festival includes an oyster-shucking con test and a parade.

-To order fresh, Cedar Key soft-shel led crabs, write to James A l len Seafood, General Del ivery, Cedar Key, FL 32625. Tell h i m we sent ya !

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CRABFINGERS

1 1 ·lb. package crabfingers, steamed 2 eggs

water dry, l ight cornmeal

Johnson 's Cedar Key

Beat eggs i n a s mal l bowl w i th a fork u n t i l s m ooth, add i n g about t h ree parts water to eggs . R o l l crabf i n ge rs l i g h t l y i n cornmeal a n d d i p a few at a t i m e i n eggs w i th one hand. H o l d corn m ea l i n other hand and sq ueeze around d i p ped c rabf i n gers. Fry unt i l go lden b row n , and se rve w i th tartar o r cockta i l sauce.

Serves: 3 Preparat i o n : about 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : about 5 m i n utes per batch

uCrabfingers are also known as cocktail claws. They're whole crab claws with the shells peeled off. Dipping in meal, then eggs, then meal again makes a nice, light breading. "

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Johnson 's Cedar Key

HEARTS OF PALM SALAD

1 head lettuce sl iced peaches, canned or fresh-3 sl ices per

serving 2-3 cans hearts of palm *, s l iced, or f resh if available

sugared dates for garn ish 1 large can pineapple chunks

ice cream topping, below

Place l ettuce i n i nd iv idua l salad bow ls and arrange f ru i t around s ides, w i th hearts of pa lm i n center . Top w i th :

ICE C REAM TO PPING (make ahead)

% gal. plus 1 qt. van i l la ice cream 7 oz. p ineapple ju ice 4 T. mayonnaise 1 T. crunchy peanut butter (a l itt le goes a long

way !) % t. green food coloring

Com bine all i n g red ients and beat w i th m ixer to a work ing cons istency, tak ing care not to let ice c ream get too soft or i t w i l l c rystal l i ze. Refreeze. Serve when f i rm enough to scoop, about 3 h o u rs.

Serves : 6-8 (makes % gal lon) Preparat ion : 15 m i n utes p lus f reez ing t ime

"Nearly everyone has a favorite hearts o f palm dish, but the ice cream topping makes this one speCial! Fresh hearts of palm are a vailable within limitations spelled out by state la w (see Appendix). "

* Avai lable in most G ourmet Spec ialty Shops.

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Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant

Masaryktown I n contrast w i th the eth n i c com m u n i t ies t h at have

become assi m i l ated i nto modern c i ty l i fe, Masaryktown is a good exam p l e of a smal l town that conti nues to focu s on the Old Country's customs. Named for the f i rst pres ident of the Republ i c of Czec hoslovakia, i t was f i rst sett led in the 1920s. The ori g i nal i ntent of the Czech i m m i g rants who formed the Hernando Plantat ion Company was to rai se c i trus to s ustain the com m u n i ty. But two k i l ler freezes wi ped out so much of the crop that many of the men retu rned to New York, the i r port of entry i nto th is country, to rai se capital i nstead .

Those who stayed, however, tu rned to c h i c ken farm i ng , an enterpr ise w h i c h became so successf u l t hat there were once as many as 50 farms i n the area. Now there are o n ly about 15 farms, and the owners are a large Tam pa corpora­t ion i nstead of i nd iv idual Czech and Sl ovak-Americans. Ch icke n d i n ners are st i l l a t rad i t i onal favorite, and the Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant i s a fri end ly p l ace for the fam i ly. Both Czech and American cooki ng are offered.

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Estab l i shed i n 1 925 as a hote l , the bu i l d i ng i s a s i m p l e wh ite frame structu re . Today i t 's no l o n g e r a hote l , but owner H aro ld Schaefer and h i s fam i ly l i ve u pstai rs. Go past t h e entry foye r and g i ft shop to the d i n i ng rooms, wh ere the sound of conversation creates a p l easant am bian ce. The rust ic wood pan el i ng i s a backdrop for some earthy Czec h sayings i n p ic ture frames.

The menu features d i ffere nt specia ls every day. The Halusky that's gerved with the Chicken Paprikash is a nood l e d i sh s imi lar t o the German Spaetzl and has a doughy texture t hat comes from keepi ng the l id on the pot w h i l e i t 's bei ng cooked . Many typical Czech rec i pes cal l for extra sugar, l i ke the i r carrots, wh ich are also seasoned wi th chives. Harol d says the i r pop u l ar strudel dessert is made by one o f t h e o lder women in the town who won't reveal the rec i pe. But , he adds, t here are other cooks to carry on the trad it ion when she's gone. Try the Kolacky, too, a pastry not qu ite so f laky as the strude l . Czech kitchens usual ly conta in a Pirka, or goose­feather baster, to brush over the pastries.

Throughout t h e year festive dance celebrat ions are he ld at the new Masaryktown Com m u n i ty H al l , espec ial ly for Masaryk's b i rt h day and Czech I ndependence Day (October). The Beseda Dancers wear traditional Czech fo lk costumes with bri g ht col ors, i n tr icate des igns , and r ic krack. You can buy t ickets at the Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant and see j ust how one of Fl or ida's many eth n i c groups has cont i n ued to keep i ts heri tage a l i ve .

Directions: From Tampa, take U. S. 4 1 North, about 25 miles north of the Tampa city limits, just past the Hernando County L ine (CR 578), to the blinking ligh t at Wilson Boulevard. The restaurant is on the east side of the s treet. Or, coming from Brooksville, simply take 41 south about nine miles.

While you 're here: This is a placid part of the s tate where back roads are dotted with flea markets and trading posts. I t 's a sort of year-round yard sale. Stop in and bargain-one person 's junk is another 's treasure! The H ernando County Courthouse in Brooksville is a distinctive red brick Victorian monumen t with a modern annex. In the early 1 900s a fence was built around the building to protect the lawn from lives tock.

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Masarykto wn Hotel Restauran t Masarykto wn

SAUERKRAUT

3% C. sauerkraut (1 lb. 1 1 oz. can) 1 t . caraway seed 2 T. ol ive oi l or cooking oi l % C. sugar % C. chopped onions 2 cups water (approx.)

Dra i n sauerkraut and p l ace in pot or kett l e . Add ot her i ng red ie nts and enough water to a l m ost cover the m i xt u re. S i m m e r u nt i l the on ions are tender, about 20 m i n utes.

Serves: 4 Preparat i o n : 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : 20 m i n utes

HA quick and easy side dish for pork."

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Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant Masaryktown

CHICKEN PAPRIKASH

1 stewing hen or plump fryer 1 onion

celery 1 clove garl ic, chopped

salt and pepper to taste paprika

% C. salad oi l or butter

Cook c h i cken in kett le , w i th or w i thout the ski n , in as l i tt le water as poss i b le , w i th on ion s, ce l ery, and salt and pepper to taste . (For b u l k q uant i t ies the Masaryktown Hotel Restau rant bakes the c h i c kens f i rst , 20 at a t i me, then ski ns them and p l aces i n steam tab le trays.) After bo i l i n g , remove ch icken and d ra in water after cook ing . Bone when s k i n is coo l . Coat bottom of deep fryi n g pan w i t h salad o i l o r butter and s i m m e r re mai n i ng i n g red ients wi th ch icken unt i l c h icken starts to brown . Watch o i l carefu l ly . Serve wi th :

SOU R C R EAM SAU C E

2 C. sour cream 1 T. grated cheese (any kind- Colby or Cheddar or

your choice) 1 smal l onion, chopped and sauteed 1 T. or more sugar to taste 1 t. to 1 T. chives

salt and pepper to taste paprika

First warm the sour cream . Add cheese and b lend i n as it m e lts . Add on ions , then season ings . Spri n k le paprika on top. ( I f sour cream is too t h i ck , t h i n the m ixture by add ing more m i l k. )

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Serves : 4

Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant Masaryktown

Preparat i o n : c h icken - 45 m i n utes; sauce - 1 0 m i n utes

Cooki n g : depends on what k i n d of ch i c ke n is used. , Fryer takes about 45 m i n utes; stew i n g hen takes about 2 h o u rs .

"A turnip or parsnip added to the chicken while cooking adds a subtle sweet taste. Rather than draining the water, reserve it to use as soup or broth. "

- N OTES-

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Masaryktown Ho tel Res tauran t Masaryktown

STUFFED CABBAGE

1 lb. ground beef 1 egg 1 smal l onion, chopped 1 smal l green pepper, chopped % C. rice (raw)

Lowry's seasoned salt salt and pepper to taste dash oregano dash sugar

1 large head of cabbage

RO LLS

M ix above i n g red ients (except cabbage) together w i th hands and set as ide . Steam cabbag e and p i c k 4 leaves off a s they become pl iab le . Wrap % l b . of meat m ixture i n eac h leaf. Then prepare the sauce.

SAUCE

1 6 oz. can tomato sauce 6 oz. water

ham base or smal l piece blanched salt pork % C. chopped onions 2 T. sugar or to taste

salt and pepper to taste

M ix a l l i n g red ients we l l . Pou r over cabbage ro l l s . Br ing sauce and cabbage ro l l s to bo i l , e i ther on top of stove or in oven , u n t i l cabbage leaves are tender, about 45 m i n utes.

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Serves: 4 Preparat i o n : 30 m i n u tes Coo k i n g : 45 m i n utes

Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant Masaryktown

"Ham base can be purchased at restaurant supply houses; however, you can replace it with salt pork with excellent results. Stuffed cabbage is a practical one-pot meal. "

- N OTES -

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Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant Masarykto wn

SPICED APPLES

1 1 lb. 4 oz. can s l iced apples 1 t. c innamon % C. sugar

pinch of salt to bring out f lavor 1 T. melted butter or margari ne

water

Add enough water to m i x t u re of above i n g red i e nts to bare ly cover t h e m . Cook on med i u m heat u n t i l tend er, about 1 0 t o 2 0 m i n utes. Serve warm o r co ld , on the s i de wi th sau erkrau t .

Serves: 4 Preparat i o n : 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : 20 m i n utes

"A delicious alternative to applesauce!"

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Buddy Freddys

Plant City Plant C i ty 's Joh nson fami ly has been i n the food and

restau rant bus i n ess for more th an 30 years . Brothers Buddy and Freddy Joh nson are kee p i ng al ive th is t rad i t ion in the i r own restau rant, a local landmark i n its own ri g ht.

The f idd le mou nted on the wal l near the entrance be longed to the i r g randfather, " Pop" J o h n son. Years ago, " Pop" u sed to enterta in passersby on street corners i n Montgomery, Alabama, and later performed wi th Hank Wi l l iams. The fam i ly moved to F lor ida i n 1 932 and has remai ned here ever s i nce. Today one of the brot hers' u n c l es performs at some of the fam i ly 's an n i versary ce lebrat ions .

The boys' father got started i n the food bus i ness by hau l ­i n g prod uce i n east Fl ori da. After he married and the boys were born, he ran a gas stat ion that a lso served sandwi ches on the south s ide of town . That smal l eatery eve ntual l y became a 250-seat restau rant located i n downtown Plant City unt i l ju st a few years ago. M r. Joh nson's s isters were the cooks.

Today, Buddy Freddys is a contem porary cou ntry restau­rant just a block from Plant City's famous Strawberry Festival

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g rounds. Surpr is ing ly, the bu i ld ing used to be a d rive-i n , but i t 's now attract ively decorated with rough-sawn cedar. M u ra ls and sma l l pai n t i ngs by local art ist John Br iggs portray the ru ral and farm l i fe of the area i n bright colors. Br iggs has been featu red in American Artist magazine , has work i n Wash ington's H i rshhorn Col lect ion, and has received several g rants and awards.

The menu at Buddy Freddys i s an appeal i n g mix of Southern and F lorida rec i pes, many from wi th i n the fam i ly . Buddy is espec ia l l y proud of the i r seasonal vegetable d i shes. Breads and desserts are al l homemade, and i t 's okay to p lace a take-out order.

Pri nted on the menu is a wel come to "our fam i l y of fr iends." Th is is a popu lar, i n-town gatheri ng spot where most of the locals know each other and don't hesi tate to exchange news across tables. With that kind of frien d ly envi ronment, even newcomers w i l l feel at home at Buddy Freddys.

Directions: Buddy Freddys is at 2104 Wes t Reynolds Street (SR 574). From 1-4 take Exit 1 1 (Plant City/Thonotosassa Road) south in to town. The road bears sligh tly to the right just past SR 92 and becomes Lemon Street. Lemon Street in­tersects with Reynolds at the restaurant location. Buddy Freddys is on the north west corner.

While you're here: The Strawberry Festival, combined with the Hillsborough County Fair, is a major popular event every February. Historically, Plant City was the site of a link in Henry Plant's railroad from Sanford to Tampa, completed in 1884. Florida Southern Col lege is in Lakeland, about a 15- to 20-minute drive east. The attractive buildings were designed by Frank Lloyd Wrigh t.

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COUNTRY FRIED STEAK

1 C. plain f lour 1 t. salt 1 t . black pepper 6 5·oz. choice top round cube steaks 1 C. cooking oi l

G RAVY

1 T. plain f lour % t. Lawry Seasoned Salt % t . onion, granulated % t . granulated garlic 1 C. water

Buddy Freddys Plant City

Com b i ne f l o u r, salt and pepper. Ro l l steaks i n t h is m ixture and fry i n cook i n g o i l u n t i l done . Set steaks aside. Save half of cook ing o i l . C o m b i n e d ry g ravy i n g red ients and add to pan. St i r over m ed i u m h eat u n t i l brow n . Add water and steaks. S i m m e r 1 5 m i n utes or u n t i l tender. Serve covered w i th g ravy.

Serves: 6 Preparat ion : 5- 1 0 m i n utes Cook i n g : 1 5- 20 m i n utes

"If you prefer, you can substitute 1 T. fresh chopped onion and 1 large chopped clove garlic for the granulated garlic. We also made this with some extra beef tenderloin tips we had on hand. Great!"

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Buddy Freddys Plant City

HOMEMADE CHICKEN AND DUMPLINGS

1 3·lb. chicken, fryer 2 qts. water 1 T. salt 1 t . black pepper 1 chicken boui l lon cube 1 t. Lawry Seasoned Sa lt

DUMPL INGS

2 C. plain f lour 3 large eggs

water

P lace c h i cken and a l l seas o n i n g s in a l arge pot and add water to cover. Br ing to a bo i l . S k i m res i d ue from top. Lower h eat and s i m mer u nt i l tender, about 45 m i n utes. Remove c h i c ken . Coo l , sk in and bone. For d u m p l i n g s , b lend f lour and eggs with e n o u g h water to form a st i ff dou g h , l i ke a p ie c rust . P u l l off about a ha lf c u p of dough at a t i m e and p l ac e on f lour-d usted w axed paper. Dust top of d o u g h wi th f lour and ro l l t h i n , about % i nch , w i th ro l l i n g p in . Cut i nto 1 %- i nch st r ips and pu l l o f f p i eces about 1 i nch long . D ro p i n t o boi l i ng stock. Bo i l u n t i l d u m p l i ng s are tender, about 1 0 m i n utes. Add c h i c ken and s i mmer u nt i l heated t h roug h .

Serves: 6-8 Preparat ion : 20-30 m i n utes Cooki n g : 50-60 m i n utes

"A classic Southern favorite."

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Buddy Freddys Plant City

FRESH ZUCCHINI AND TOMATOES

6 smal l fresh zucchini 1 clove garlic, smashed 1 a-oz. can of tomatoes, drained and d iced (or 8 oz.

fresh tomatoes, diced) 1 smal l onion, diced 1 T. Wesson oi l 1 T. sugar 1 T. salt % t. black pepper % C. water

Cut zucc h i n i i nto b i te-s ize p ieces. Com b i ne w i t h other i ng red ients . S i m mer i n a covered saucepan for 20 m i n utes or u n t i l zucc h i n i i s j u st tender.

Serves: 6-8 Preparat i o n : 5- 1 0 m i n utes Cooki n g : 20 m i n utes

"Pass some grated Parmesan cheese for extra zip_"

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Buddy Freddys Plant City

SCALLOPED EGGPLANT

2 large eggplants , peeled and cut into 1 ·inch x 1 ·inch x 2·inch squares

1 C. grated sharp Cheddar cheese 1 a·oz. can tomatoes, diced 1 medium onion, diced 2 tubes Salt ines, crushed 1 t . black pepper 1 t. salt 1 T. Wesson oil 1 t . oregano leaves 2 T. Parmesan cheese

Steam and d ra i n eg g p lants . Com b i n e a l l i n g red ients except Parmesan cheese. P l ace in bak i ng pan , s p r i n k l e Parm esan c heese on top , and bake 1 5 m i n utes at 400 of.

Serves: 8 Preparat i o n : 1 0- 1 5 m i n utes Cook i n g : 1 5 m i n utes

UThis is an easy way to prepare a hearty dish!"

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Buddy Freddys Plant City

STRAWBERRY SHORTCAKE

2 C. sel f'ris ing f lour 1 t . baking powder 1 C. confectioners sugar % C. shortening such as Crisco 1 t . van i l la 1 C. mi lk % stick butter, me lted 1 qt. fresh strawberries, sweetened to taste

whipped cream

Com b i n e and s i ft d ry i ng red ients . Cut in shorte n i n g w i t h pastry b lender. St i r i n van i l l a a n d m i l k j u st u n t i l b lended . I t may b e necessary t o add a l i t t le more f lour to ach i eve the r ight con s istency. Form i nto a ba l l . Ro l l dough out about 1 % i n c hes t h i c k on f loured wax paper or pastry c l ot h . Cut out b iscu it -s ized rounds w i th a l i d from Pam or other spray can as a cookie c utter. P lace b iscu i t rounds on a greased baki ng s heet. Bake at 350 0 F. for about 1 2 to 15 m i n utes or un t i l go lden brown . Brush tops w i th melted butter. S l ice b iscu its i n ha l f , add strawberr ies, and rep lace b iscu i t tops. Serve topped with w h i pped cream .

Serves: 6-8 Preparat ion : 1 5-20 m i n utes Cooki n g : 1 5 m i n utes

HWhat better dish to come from Plant City, Florida 's strawberry capital! This shortcake is sweeter than usual. "

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Allen's Historical Cafe

Auburndale Veteran Flor ida songwriter and fo l ks i nger Fran k Thomas

pen ned a tune about Carl A l len , a nat ive F lori d i an who was named by the statewide Sertoma Cl u b as the state's N u m ber One Crac ker, "Polk Cou nty's favorite son . "

Goes t h e son g , "Carl A l l en 's m y name a n d catf i sh i n 's my game I But that ai n ' t al l I 've done. I I 've been an old man and an o ld cow hand . I I 'm a wise o ld son of a g u n . "

Accord i n g t o local fo lk l ore, that's what a F lor ida Cracker rea l ly used to be, a cow h u nter, and Carl was one h i mse l f . Duri ng the 1 9th century the Cracker cowboys wou ld crack the i r w h i ps wh i le they were out herd i ng r id i c u lous- look ing scru b cows . They were ri d i c u l ous- looki n g in those days, at least accord ing to h i storical records, but by the 1 920s, due to i m provements i n breed ing tech nology, the i r appearance was much better. Catt le rais i ng has been a F lor ida agri ­cu l tu ral p u rsu i t longer than in any other state in the cou ntry .

Now, Carl A l l e n , "Cracker," w i l l let you in on many a p i ece of h i story, not on ly in the tales he can tel l but al so in the

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cafe 's decor. From the outs ide, A l len 's H i storical Cafe looks more l i ke a p io neer outpost than a restaurant. I ns ide, every square i nch of wal l space is covered w i th memorabi l ia-fos­s i l s , p l aq ues express i ng fo l k w isdom, too ls , ant iq ues, and any other odd ba l l t reasu re that seems to f i t in . You can weigh yourse l f on an o ld-t ime scale and read you r fortune . You can take p i ctu res of someone h u g g i n g a b ig o ld stu ffed bear that's ofte n pos i t ioned outs ide the restaurant. (It's not the teddy bear k i nd e i ther.) In the back room b lueg rass bands hold weekly jam sess ions , and you ' re welcome to j o i n i n w i t h you r o w n p ick i n ' . . . o r j ust g ri n n i n ' , a s t h e case m ay be.

The menu is pure "Cracker, " too, with nat ive speci a l t ies l i ke cooter (soft-she l led tu rt l e), armad i l l o , gator, and ratt lesnake (t hat's ri ght , rattl esnake i ) . Carl says h i s i s the o n ly restaurant in the state serv ing i t . I t 's rather l i ke fr ied c h i cken or frog legs but with less meat on the bone. Other reg ional trademarks aren 't so exot ic : d i shes l i ke the pop u l ar g reens salad , made with avocad o, pecans and p u rp le g rapes; and a yummy sweet potato p i e for dessert . You can count on everyth i ng be i ng fres h ly cau ght or g rown and w i th in the l i mits the law a l lows.

A l len 's H i storical Cafe is a crash course in reg i onal food and state h i sto ry that wi l l keep you com i ng bac k for more !

Directions: Allen 's His torical Cafe is a t 138 7 U.S. 92 West. From 1-4 around Lakeland, take the U. S. 98 exit south. Turn east on U.S. 92 to the address, very near the Winter Haven Municipal Airport.

While you're here: All manner of bluegrass festivals take place in this area, including the state fiddling championship in March. The July 4 old-fashioned celebration includes, of al/ the unlikely phenomena, a Wal king Catfish Race. You have to see it to believe it. Then skip on over to Win ter Haven and see Florida Cypress Gardens for outstanding water­skiing sho ws, live animal exhibits, thousands of flowers, and hostesses dressed in Southern colonial-style gowns.

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Allen 's His torical Cafe A uburndale

TURTLE SOUP

4 Ibs. fresh turt le meat * or 1 lb . canned, if avai lable enough water to cover

1 1 6·oz. can tomato ju ice 3-4 medium potatoes, peeled and cut into smal l

chunks % lb . barley 1 large onion, cut into smal l sl ices

sa lt , pepper and Accent to taste

Bo i l t u rt le u n t i l meat fa l l s off bone, about 1 % hours. Remove meat f rom brot h . Remove al l bones and cut meat i nto b i te·s ize p ieces . Place meat back i n to broth and add remai n i n g i n g red i ents . S i m m e r 2 t o 4 hours .

Serves: 6-8 Preparat i o n : 1 % hours Cook i n g : 2-4 hours

"If you use canned turtle meat, skip the 1 % hours of pre·cooking and proceed with the rest of the recipe. "

· Some large supermarkets carry fresh-water t u rt l e . It is the land t u rtle that is i l legal to catch i n F l or ida d u r i n g specif ied times of the year. Check with the Game and Fresh Water F ish Commission (Appendix) for which reg u lations pertai n to which species.

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A llen 's Historical Cafe A uburndale

CRACKLlN' CORN BREAD

1 % C. white or yel low self· r ising corn meal % C. sel f·ri s ing white f lour 1 t. baking powder (level) 4 t. sugar 2 eggs 2 T. bacon grease % C. crackl ings·

about 1 C. buttermi lk

M ix a l l i ng red ients except butterm i l k. Add enough b utterm i l k to form a pour i n g con s istency, l i ke a cake batter. Pour i n to a hot , greased i ron ski l let or bak ing pan . Bake at 350 O F . u nt i l done , about 20 m i n utes .

Serves: 4-6 Preparat ion : 1 0 m i n utes Cooki ng : 20 m i n utes

IIA standard Southern favorite. You don't need to add salt since the bacon grease and cracklings provide the flavor. "

·Crackl ings are made from the rind of ham or pork. You can buy them i n t h e meat section o f many su permarkets or make your own . C u t rind or fat i n to 1j,·inch squares. Place in a deep pan and bake at 300 ° F . unt i l browned and al l fat has been rendered. Drai n and store i n refrigerator for use as needed.

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Allen 's Historical Cafe Auburndale

WATERMELON SOUP

2 qts. water 4-6 each, chicken breasts, necks, and backs for

stock rind from 1 large watermelon (white port ion

on ly), cut into smal l cubes (about 4 C.) 1 -2 medium carrots, cut into small cubes 1 C. onions, chopped fine 1 -2 tomatoes, chopped fine 1 smal l can water chestnuts, drained and cut

fine garlic powder, salt, black pepper, and Accent

to taste

M ake stoc k w i t h c h i c ke n b reasts, necks, and bac ks. When stoc k i s done , remove breasts. Bone and rem ove a l l sk in and fat . Cut b reast meat i nto s m a l l c u bes a n d set as ide . Remove the rest of the c h i c ke n from the stoc k . Y o u w i l l be u s i n g o n l y the b reast meat in t h i s rec i pe . Strai n the stoc k . Add waterme l o n r i n d t o stoc k and boi l u n t i l r i nd i s tender, about 30 m i n utes. Add carrots , on ions , tomatoes, and water chest n u ts , and bo i l u n t i l a l l i n g red ients are done . Add the cut -up c h i c ken breasts and season to taste w i th gar l i c powder, sa l t , b lac k pepper, and Acce n t . Se rve w i t h c rackers.

Serves : 6-8 Preparat i o n : 1 0 m i n utes Coo k i n g : about 40 m i n utes p l us t i me to m ake

c h i c ke n stock

"This is a very light and delectable soup, perfect as an appetizer. If you are in a hurry, use canned chicken stock and poach the chicken breasts in it. Proceed as above. This recipe originated in the Philippines but works great with Florida watermelon!"

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A llen 's His torical Cafe A uburndale

SWAMP CABBAGE

% small head, heart of the cabbage palm *(cut out tender part inside the palm), or 2 cans hearts of palm *

6 slices smoked bacon, fried crisp ("sow's bel ly") salt and pepper to taste

1 C. water

Crumb le the fr ied bacon and add to saucepan along with grease f rom bacon , water, and cabbage pal m . A d d salt and pepper t o taste. B o i l u nt i l tender. S immer 3 to 4 hours .

Serves : 4-6 Preparat ion : 1 0 m i n utes Cooki n g : 3-4 hours

"This is a delicious Florida dish with a taste al/ its own. Serve it as a vegetable. When the Spaniards came to Florida, they disco vered that this native delicacy was a favorite with the Indians."

• Avai lable a t the Gourmet Section a t your s u permarket.

·See Appendix for i n format ion on l egal use of t h i s state-protected s pecies.

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Allen's Historical Cafe Auburndale

FRIED CITRONS

2-3 unripe citrons (about the size of an orange) salt, pepper and Accent to taste flour for dipping egg and milk beaten together, for d ipping cooking oi l

Th i n l y s l i ce c i t rons and soak i n salt water about 2 to 3 h o u rs , or l o n g e r i f you prefer cr isper c i trons. Season with sa l t , pepper and Acce nt . D ip i n f l o u r , then i n egg-m i l k m i xture , then back i n f l o u r. Fry i n cooki n g o i l a s i f you were f ry i n g tomatoes o r eg g p l ant , u n t i l c i t rons are tender a n d bro w n .

Serves: 4-6 Preparat i o n : 2 to 3 hours to soak Coo k i n g : 5- 1 0 m i n u tes

"Carl Allen says this is a real treat, especially if you like fried green tomatoes or eggplant. Citrons grow wild in many regions of the state and can easily be found in watermelon fields. This recipe actually is for citron melons, which are green when they are young. The larger white-and-green striped fruit is used to make candied citron used in fruitcakes. "

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Allen's His torical Cafe A uburndale

SWEET POTATO PIE

1 % C. fresh or canned sweet potatoes, cooked % C. s ugar 1 t. c innamon 1 t. a l lspice % t. salt 2 eggs, beaten 1 C. evaporated mi lk 2 T . butter, very soft 1 9%·inch unbaked pie shel l

I f us ing canned sweet potatoes, d ra i n . M ash potatoes u n t i l free of l u m ps. Add sugar, c i n namo n , al l sp ice, and salt . M i x we l l . Add beaten egg s and m ix we l l . B lend i n m i l k and butter. Cont i n ue t o m i x u nt i l a l l i ng red ients are wel l b l ended . Pou r i n to u n baked p ie she l l and bake for 45 m i nutes at 350 ° F. Serve hot .

Y ie lds : 1 91f2- i nch p ie Preparat i o n : 1 0- 1 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : 45 m i n utes

"This is an old-fashioned recipe for an old·time delicious pie. Add whipped cream or topping, if you like."

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Allen's Historical Cafe A uburndale

SWAMP CABBAGE AMBROSIA

% head fresh swamp cabbage * , cut very f ine, or 1 can hearts of pal m, drained and diced

1 large ripe papaya 8 oranges, peeled, seeded, and separated in

sections 1 smal l package shredded coconut 1 smal l jar maraschino cherries

sugar to taste (or sweetener of your choice)

M ix al l i n g red ients and sweeten to taste. Ch i l l and serve .

Serves: 8- 1 0 Preparat ion : 5- 1 0 m i n utes p l us 1 -2 hours to c h i l l

"This is a very unusual way o f preparing swamp cabbage. Carl Allen suggests that you call several days ahead if you wish to order a swamp cabbage dish at the cafe to allow adequate preparation time for the fresh plant."

' See Appendix f o r i n formation o n l e g a l use o f t h is state-protected species.

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A llen 's Historical Cafe A uburndale

FLORIDA ORANGE PIE

1 C. sugar 5 T. cornstarch 2 T. orange rind, grated 1 C. fresh orange juice 1 C. orange sect ions, cut into pieces 3 egg yolks, beaten 1 T. lemon ju ice 1 T. butter 1 8-inch baked pie shel l

Com b i ne sugar, cornstarc h , g rated orange ri n d , orange j u ice a n d oran ge sect ions . Cook on low heat , st i rr ing u n t i l c l ear. Add smal l amount of hot m i xture to beaten egg yo lks , return to hot m i xt u re , and cook about 5 m i n u tes longer. Remove from h eat and b lend i n lemon j u ice and b utter. Pou r i n to baked p i e she l l , maki n g sure both f i l l i ng a n d she l l are the same tem perat ure , e i ther hot or cold. Top w i t h :

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M E R I N G U E

3 egg whites 6 T. sugar % t. lemon extract

Allen 's Historical Cafe Auburndale

Beat egg w h ites u n t i l st i f f . Beat i n sugar and l e m o n extract, beat i n g s l owly u nt i l smooth and g l ossy. Sp read on pie and bake at 400 ° F. u n t i l l i g h t l y brow ned, about 8- 1 0 m i n utes.

Y i e l d s : 1 8- i n c h pie (se rves 6) Preparat i o n : about 15 m i n utes Coo k i n g : 8- 1 0 m i n utes

"If you like a taste that is slightly more tart, reduce the amount of sugar in the filling to % of a cup. This is an excellent way to get your 'taste of Florida sunshine. ' "

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JI)

Acapulco Cafe

Zolfo Springs "Th is i s p retty much a second home to us ," says Rose

Zamora of her fam i l y's Acapu l co Cafe. "We' re here most of the t i me ."

And the restau rant does l ook more l i ke a l arge fam i l y room i n someone's h o m e t h a n i t does a restau rant . T h e TV set may be t u rned on , fam i ly p ictures l i ne the wal l s and kn i ck-knack she lves, one d i n i n g area i s paneled in knotty p i ne , and Mex ican pinatas hang from the ce i l i ng . There are on ly fou r tables i n the main room , and even though t h i s is a p u b l i c p lace, i t 's cozy enough so that i f you were seated on a couch i nstead of at a table, you cou ld j ust s l i p your shoes off, l ean back, and l et Rose and her mother and s i sters make you feel at home.

Rose was born i n Brownvi l l e, Texas, and g rew u p in He l ena, Arkansas, near the M i ssiss ipp i R iver. Her mother had been a cook in several restau rants in Brownv i l le . When they moved to Florida her father became a crew l eader in the prod uce f ie lds u n t i l h i s heal th no longer permitted h i m to work so hard outs ide. So, he opened the cate in 1 968. S i n ce then, i t 's become known among locals as "the best p lace for

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M ex ican food outside Mexi co," espec i al l y amon g those customers who them selves are produce workers from sou th of the border.

The c h u n ks of fresh on ions , tomatoes and l ettuce in several of the d i shes are far s u perior to the p rocessed foods often used at many cha in restau ran ts. Each of the f lavors is d i st i nct ly fresh .

"We j u st serve what the people l i ke," says Rose. " A pay­i n g customer n eeds to get t h e i r money's wort h , so we don ' t take shortcuts. "

What 's esse nt ia l to so many Mexi can d i shes, she says, are c u m i n seeds, Mex ine c h i l i powd er, oregano, and garl ic . Otherwi se, i t 's "just ord i nary food l i ke you'd f ix for yourse lf ." And many of the rec i pes are good to prepare i f you have to feed a l arge fam i ly or i f you wou ld rat her f ix one large batch and reheat part of i t later.

Says Rose, "There 's not m uch happe n i n g here (in Zol fo Spri ngs), but you don ' t feel l i ke the worl d 's pass i n g you by, e i ther." Joi n Rose and her fam i ly for a mea l , where the p u r­p l e and white peri w i n k l es create a colorf u l garden entrance for the Acap u l co Cafe, year-rou nd.

Directions: The Acapulco Cafe is on U. S. 1 7 in Zolfo Springs, just south of the intersection with SR 64. The cafe is on the west side of the s treet. Zolfo Springs is about 50 miles east of Bradenton.

While you're here: Probably the mos t unusual "sight" in the whole s tate is Florida 's "other magic kingdom, " the home of sculptor Howard Solomon. Howard 's home is literally his castle, sculpted out of sheet metal, complete with towers and turrets, art gallery, and "Medieval Campground. " There are full outdoor recreational facilities. Though the castle is located in the "town " of Lily and the post office address is in On a, you 'll have to call directory assis tance in A rcadia for the Solomon business phone to get directions to this d ef in ite ly back-roads retreat. You can probably convince Howard to give you one of the "tours " h e 's famous for. About a half-hour 's drive further east of Zolfo Springs is Sebring, home of the Coca-Cola Twelve Hours of Sebring auto racing classic held in the spring. And Arcadia, less than a half-hour 's drive south, is the home of the oldest champion­ship rodeo in the state and one of the best in the nation. You won 't see any better Cracker cowboy "action " anywhere!

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GUACAMOLE SALAD

1 avocado, completely ripe 2 T. onions, f inely chopped % medium tomato, f inely chopped

dash lemon juice (about V4 lemon) pinch of salt lettuce cups or chopped lettuce tort i l la chips (optional) Tabasco sauce (optional)

Acapulco Cafe Zolfo Springs

Pee l avocado and mash u n t i l j u st l u m py. Do not b lend smoot h . Add on ions , tomato, l e m o n j u ice , and sal t . Serve on lettuce. Garn ish w i t h tort i l l a c h i ps and pass the Tabasco o r serve as a d i p with tort i l l a c h i ps.

Serves: 4 Preparat i o n : 1 0 m i n utes

"If you are not going to use this salad right a way, be sure to cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate. This makes an excellent dish with Mexican food or broiled steak."

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Acapulco Cafe Zolfo Springs

ENCHILADAS

SAUCE

1 cube butter or margarine 2 cloves garlic, m inced 5 T. f lour 2 t . chi l i powder % C. cumin seeds , browned, or ground cumin % t . oregano

salt and black pepper to taste 2 C. water % C. tomato sauce

Melt butter i n a large fry i n g pan . Add garl i c and saute . St i r in f lour and cook, bri n g i n g m ixture to a gravy-l i ke cons istency. B lend i n c h i l i powder, c u m i n , oregano, sa l t , and pepper. Add water a n d m ix , cook ing over med i u m heat u n t i l m i xtu re t h i c kens and comes to a bo i l . Taste and adj ust season i ng s i f necessary.

FILLI N G

1 l b . ground beef 1 med ium tomato, f inely chopped 1 medium bell pepper, f i nely c hopped 1 medium onion, f inely chopped 1 -2 cloves garlic, m inced

black pepper 1 % t. ch i l i powder

Saute g round beef in fry i n g pan u nt i l hal fway done. Pour off fat . Add tomato, bel l pepper, g arl i c , and on ion . Cook u n t i l vegetab les are soft and meat is brow n , about 5 to 8 m i n utes. Add pepper to taste and c h i l i powder. M ix , and con t i nue to cook a m i n ute or two u nt i l al l i ngredi ents are b lended.

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TORTILLAS

1 2 corn tort i l las vegetable shortening for frying

1 medium raw onion, chopped Cheddar cheese, grated, for topping

A capulco Cate Zolfo Springs

I f tort i l l as are f rozen , thaw them com p lete ly . H eat shorte n i n g i n pan and fry each tort i l l a q u ick ly , abo ut 5 seconds on each s ide . Drai n . P lace tort i l l a i n bak ing d ish , p l ace meat m i x ture i n m idd le , a n d rol l up . L ine u p e n c h i l adas i n baki ng pan , seam s ide dow n . Pou r sauce over a l l . Spr i nk le c ho pped on ions on top , then grated cheese. Place in oven about t h i rty m i n utes at 350 ° F. , j u st long enough to h eat t h roug h . With a spat u la, serve onto p lates. T h i s d ish is good accompan ied by salad , Span i s h r ice , or refr ied bean s.

Serves: 4-6 Preparat ion : 30 m i n utes Cook i n g : 45-60 m i n utes

"There 's nothing like homemade enchiladas, and this dish is well worth the time. It's perfect to make ahead and freezes very well. You can cook it, cool it, then freeze it. Or, put it all together, minus the raw onion topping, and freeze it. Add the raw onions just before baking. "

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Acapulco Cate Zolfo Springs

MOLE DE GALLINA 0 PUERCO (CHICKEN OR PORK IN MOLE SAUCE)

1 chicken cut into serving pieces or 2 Ibs. pork roast or chops

water flour al l ·vegetable shortening chi l i powder

3 garl ic cloves, chopped cumin seeds, browned in oil oregano salt and pepper

1 T. creamy pean ut butter (not crunchy)

Cover ch icken or pork w i th water and b o i l gent ly u n t i l cooked . Save t h e brot h . B rown enough f l o u r i n shorte n i n g t o form a g ravy· l i ke cons istency. Add c h i l i powder for c o l o r and b l e n d wel l . Add gar l i c , c u m i n seeds t o taste, then o regano t o taste. Add salt and pepper to taste. St i r in enough of the reserved broth to make a g ravy . St i r in pean ut butter and keep st i rr ing u n t i l com p l ete ly combi ned. Add the c h icken o r meat and heat o n l y long enough to heat the meat and to let the f l avor of the sauce seep i n . Serve w i th M ex i can s ide d i shes such as beans and r ice.

Serves: 4-6 P reparat i o n : 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : about 35-40 m i n utes

"When you add the chili powder start with just a pinch so that it doesn't overpower the taste of the sauce. This is a variation on the traditional Mole Sauce which generally uses chocolate. "

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REFRIED BEANS

1 . package (1 lb. 8 oz.) dry pinto beans water to soak cumin seeds to taste salt to taste vegetable shortening

A capulco Cafe Zolfo Springs

Fo l l ow i n struct ions on package of d ry p i nto beans for soaki ng and coo k i n g . D rai n . H eat shorten i n g i n pan , then add beans . Cook br ief ly and m as h f i n e w h i l e cook i n g . Keep st i r r ing over l o w heat u n t i l beans are com p l ete ly ref ried .

Serves: 8 Preparat i o n : 1 0 m i n utes p l u s 3-31/2 h o u rs for

soak i n g and coo k i n g beans Cooki n g : about 30 m i n utes

"Cook up a batch and store in refrigerator or freezer, re·heating as needed. You'll know when they're done-they'll smell terrific !"

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Latam Restaurant

Tampa How often do you f i n d a young restau rant owner who's

assured, outgo i ng, com peten t , and a l ready has 15 years of experience u nder h i s belt? Not very, and t h at 's w hy David Morej on i s u n u sual .

David was 1 2 when h i s mother and fat her opened the Latam Restaurant i n 1 968, and he g rew u p i n the bus iness, doing everyt h i ng -wait ing on tables, cas h i eri n g , bartend­i n g, cook ing , even scrubb ing f l oors. He was al l set to go to l aw school in Texas but i n stead took advantage of the oppor­t u n ity to become a partner i n the fam i l y bus i ness i n 1 978.

"I had a good teacher ," David says, "my dad . He was the chef at the Span i s h Park Restau rant for 18 years. And the bartender here was Dad 's master chef. My unc le was a c hef at the Col u mb ia Restaurant. A l l the masters i n Tam pa were my teac hers ."

That t rai n i n g , combined w i t h the low ove rhead of a long­term bu i l d i ng l ease and carefu l management, has enabl ed David to carry on the fam i ly t rad i t ions of outstan d i n g Lat i n a n d American cooki ng at reasonable pr ices. T h e Latam does n 't charge much more than cost p l u s somet h i n g to

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cover t ime and a modest prof i t , yet yo u ' l l f i nd both common and u n usual d i shes, local and i m ported seafood, and fresh beef. The Picadillo , for exam ple , i s made with f i let m i g non i nstead of ord i nary ground beef because the restaurant does its own butcheri ng and gri n d i ng . The meat is p u rchased from Fl ori da's own g iant cong lomerate , the Lykes Com pany.

Dav id says the d i fferences between Span i s h and Cu ban cu is i ne are as m uch in the menu i tems as i n the p reparat ion . A typical Cuban mea l , for exam ple , may i n c l ude roast pork, Moros (blacK beans and ri ce), and Yuca with Garlic Sauce . One of the pop u lar Cuban d i shes he and one other cook prepare is Polio Real Campina , named after an old town i n Cu ba. I t 's a savory baked ch icke n entree w i th garl i c , o l ive o i l , on ions , t h i c k potato s l i ces, and papri ka. Span i sh d i shes are more l i ke ly to be sp ic ier and hotter.

Another famous and easy-to-make d ish is Steak Milanesa . Pound a steak f i l let t h i n , bread i t , deep fry, and serve wi th a tomato sauce wi th peas, chopped egg , and p i m i ento or pars ley for decorat ion . Chicken Valenciano is cooked w i th beer and chorizo (Span i sh sau sage).

Some of the t rad i t ional Span ish and Cu ban d i shes such as Paella and Boliche are served at the Latam , but Dav id says some peop le feel they are e i ther too t i m e-con s u m i n g for average h o m e p reparat ion or req u i re s pecia l tec h n i q ues that are somewhat com p l i cated .

But whatever your taste preference, Lat i n or American, you ' l l f ind p lenty to p l ease you at Latam .

Directions: The Latam Restaurant is at 251 1 West Colum­bus Drive. From 1-275 take the Ho ward Avenue exit and head north. Turn left (west) on Columbus Drive, one block to ad­dress at the intersection with Armenia Avenue. The Latam is on the northwest corner.

While you're here: Drive east on Columbus and south on Boulevard into the Old Hyde Park area, a mostly residential neighborhood with attractive restored old homes. Where stately mansions line Bayshore Boulevard, overlooking Hillsborough Bay, you 'll probably see many joggers along the road. Closer in to to wn is the University of Tampa, housed in wha t was formerly the Tampa Bay Hotel, built by developer Henry Plant a century ago. Its graceful mosques are the most distinguishable feature of Tampa 's skyline. One wing of the main building is now a historical museum.

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Latam Restaurant Tampa

GARBANZO BEAN SOUP

(A l l ow t i m e to soak beans overn ig ht)

1 1 6·oz. can garbanzo beans 2 cans water

SO FRITO (l ightly fried ingredients):

oi l % lb. tocino (salt pork cut in pieces) 1 chorizo (Spanish sausage) % lb. ham 1 potato, cut in smal l cubes 1 onion

pork bone (Boston butt)

Soak beans overn i g ht . Add sal t , but be caref u l w i th am o u n t , us ing o n l y enoug h to he lp softe n the bean s . Drai n s a l t water . Y o u may w a n t t o soak them agai n i n p l a in water to red uce the salty taste. Bo i l several h o u rs u nt i l soft . Then add sofr i to and pork bone. S i m me r and serve as n eeded.

Serves : 3-4 Preparat i o n : 10 h o u rs Cook i n g : 3-4 hours

"This is the traditional way to prepare this popular soup. "

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Latam Restaurant Tampa

TENDERLOIN TIPS SALTEADOS

cooking oi l 1 lb. tenderloin beef t ips, cut into 1/2 · inch chunks

salt and pepper, to taste % onion, chopped % green pepper, f inely chopped 1 clove garlic, chopped 1 large potato, diced and sauteed unt i l brown % C. m ushroom stems and pieces % C. sherry % C. brown gravy or beef stock

Coat bottom of fry i n g pan w i t h coo k i n g o i l . H eat o i l , add meat, and saute u n t i l brow n . Add re mai n i ng i n g red ients and cook u n t i l on i o n s , peppe rs and meat are coo ked t h roug h , about 20 m i n utes.

Serves: 4 Preparat i o n : 1 0 m i n u tes Coo k i n g : 25-30 m i n utes, i n c l u d i n g t i m e to saute

d i ced potatoes

"Serve with rice and a green vegetable. We added a handful of almonds to the leftovers after reheating. "

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Latam Restaurant Tampa

,

STEAK A LA DAVID

SAUCE

(makes 1 pint- enough leftovers for 6-8 serv ings)

4 oz. dry red wine % lb . butter, cut i n smal l pieces % C. beef boui l lon

juice of 1 lemon % C. water % C. Lea & Perrins Worcestersh i re sauce

(or your favorite brand)

STEAK

10 oz. fi l Iet bread cru mbs cooking oi l

% C. mushrooms, s l iced (sauteed if desired) 1 -2 sl ices Swiss cheese % C. onions, chopped f ine 2 sprigs parsley, chopped 2 T. peas, cooked

pim iento for garn ish

For sauce, mix a l l i ng red ients together and br ing to a bo i l . Keep warm w h i l e steak is cook ing . Pou nd steak w i th mal let to f latten . It shou ld st i l l be somew hat t h ick . Bread f i I l et and deep fry to des i red leve l of do neness (about 5 m i n utes for a 1 - i nc h t h i c k f i l l et, rare). Set f i l l et i n ove nproof d ish or metal pan . Spr in k le m u shrooms over top and p lace s l i ces of Swiss cheese over m u shrooms. Bake i n oven for 2 m i n utes at 350 ° F . , j u st long enoug h for c heese to melt . Spri nk le parsley and on ions on top, then peas and p i m i ento. Pou r 1 112 to 2 ounces of sauce over each serv i ng of steak.

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Serves: 1 (Sauce 6-8 persons) Preparat i o n : 20 m i n utes Cooki n g : 1 0- 1 5 m i n utes

Latam Restaurant Tampa

"This recipe is David's own adaptation of what S. Agliano of Agliano Seafood meant when he said, '/ want a big steak and / want it breaded and tender. ' Surprisingly, this dish is not at all greasy. The breading and quick frying keep the juices in and the fat out. "

- N OTES -

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Latam Res taurant Tampa

, SEAFOOD A LA VASCA

% lb. smal l shrimp (or larger shrim p cut up), cooked, peeled, and deveined

% C. mushrooms, sl iced and l ightly sauteed 1 2 oz. f ish f i l let such as whiting, l ightly sauteed 4 oz. crab meat , cooked and picked over for

shells and carti lage 8 large scal lops, cooked (can be c ut in half)

Bechamel Sauce

In an ove n-proof d i s h , arrange s h ri m p for a bottom l ayer. P lace m u shrooms over the s h ri m p. P lace f ish f i l lets ove r m u s h roo ms, then the c rab m eat. Arrange sca l l o ps on each s ide. Pre pare the Becham e l Sauce.

B ECHAMEL SAUCE

4 T. butter % C. onions, f inely chopped % t . salt % t. white pepper 2 C. mi lk 1 %-2 T . f lour 1 raw egg

paprika melted butter to pour over f ish parsley and pimiento for garn ish

Melt 4 T. butter and saute on ions , bei n g caref u l not to burn . Add salt and pepper. In another pot, h eat m i l k and bri n g j u st to the boi l . St i r in f l o u r to butter­on ion m i xt u re to m ake a t h i c k paste . Yo u m ay have to add more butter. Cook, st i rr ing u n t i l m i xture i s s m oot h . Add m i l k a n d m i x u nt i l t h ere a re no l u m ps. H eat , cont i n u i n g to st ir u n t i l m i xt u re is t h i c kened. Add raw egg and mix we l l . Po ur sauce over f i s h .

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Latam Res taurant Tampa

Spri n k le pap r i ka on top ; then pour ove r a l i t t le me lted butter . Bake at 350 ° F. u n t i l sauce i s b rowned, about 5 m i n utes . The f ish i s a l ready cooked , and the bak i n g is j u st for warm i n g and to b r i n g out a l l the f l avors. Garn i s h with pars ley and p i m iento.

Serves : 4 Preparat i o n : 20 m i n utes Coo k i n g : 20 m i n utes ( i n c l udes t i m e for coo k i n g f ish

and Bechamel Sauce)

"This is a mouth-watering dish with a mild sauce. Try adding a little chopped fresh basil, oregano or other herb to the sauce for variety and color."

- N OTES -

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Latam Restaurant Tampa

YUCA CON MOJO DE AJO (YUCA WITH GARLIC SAUCE)

1 package frozen yuca (available i n Span ish groceries)

water to cover salt to taste

Thaw frozen yuca. P lace in pot and cover w i th water. Add a l i t t le salt and boi l u n t i l soft (s i m i lar to prepari ng boi led carrots or potatoes), about 1 5 m i n utes.

GARLIC SAUCE: (makes 1 quart)

1 pt. pork lard (rendered after cooking pork) % pt. clove garl ic, chopped fine (dehydrated garl ic

may also be used), o r less, to taste 1 whole onion, chopped

ju ice of 1 whole lemon salt and pepper to taste

1 -2 oz. dry white wine or cooking wine 1 oz. vinegar (optional)

M ix pork lard and g arl i c . Add on ion , lemon j u ice, sal t and pepper to taste, and w i ne. Add vi n egar i f des i red . H eat m ixture u nt i l i t bo i l s . I t w i l l take several m i n utes for the garl i c and the on ions to cook, but be carefu l not to let them burn . Serve over yuca, roast pork, or other d i shes for w h i ch you wo u l d l i ke a sauce w i th a very strong gar l i c f l avor. Leftove r sauce can be refr igerated and re- heated .

Serves: 4-6 Preparat ion : yuca- 1 0 m i n utes; sauce - 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : yu ca- 1 5 m i n utes ; sauce - 5- 1 0 m i n utes

"Garlic lovers, this is for you!"

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La Teresita

Tampa When Lat i n fam i l i es e nter the restau rant bus i ness, they

do so con gusto-al l the way. For Max Capdev i la, h i s fou r son s, and several others i n t h e fam i ly , La Teresita i s i ndeed their l i fe. What started out as a smal l g rocery store expanded by add i ng a fish market. Next came a sandwich shop and later a fu l l cafe that's packed morn i ng to n ig ht. They're al l part of La Teres i ta's operat ion . The grocery store, wh ich is less than half the s ize of a typ ical chai n supermarket, offers j ust as much of what the local H ispan ic comm u n ity wants, often at better prices.

The cate is s i m ply des igned, w i th cou nter space on ly . But j ust wait unt i l they start p i l i n g the food h i g h on your p late. An order for one can often sat i sfy two, for l ess than what you'd pay at a fast food restau rant. And the food here offers a taste of gen u i ne eth n ic f lavors a long Tampa's " Bo l iche Bou l evard ." That 's Co l u mbus Drive's n ic kname because of the large n u m ber of Cu ban and Span ish eater ies and stores that l i ne the street for several b locks.

Says George, the oldest son, "There's noth i ng better than competit ion. A l l the restaurants on Bol iche are always packed."

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You can eas i ly observe what th is part of the com m u n ity i s l i ke at La Teresita. N ot q u i te hal f o f t h e customers are Ang los, says George. The mayor stops in freq uent ly for Cafe can Leche. There's a reason to dri n k it sweetened. I t 's ex­t remely strong-f lavored Cu ban coffee mixed with m i l k t hat has been steamed in a separate contai ner.

"There's not h i ng q u iet about Lati ns ," George observes as he su rveys the ani mated conversat ions ac ross the cou nter. "And Lat i n s eat ."

La Teresita serves both Cuban and Span ish d i shes, but George says the d i fferences are mai n ly i n the season i ngs. In Cuba, he exp l a ins, b l ac k beans go with wh ite r ice , not ye l l ow; and h ere, wh i te r ice on the tab le is a m u st for his Cuban customers. M any rec i pes cal l for j u ice f rom sour oranges, a vari ety that some of h is c u stomers br i ng in from the i r own bac kyards. It does n 't have as strong an acid taste as lemon j u ice, wh ich is someti mes u sed as a S U bst i tute. The Bistec Palomilla is a pop u l ar meat d i s h . I t 's one that in typical Cu ban fash ion cal ls for th i n ly sl iced s i r l o i n that is pounded even t h i n ner, seasoned, pan fr ied, and served with a heap i n g port ion of yel low ri ce. General ly, says George, the Lat in d i et does n't have so many g reen vegetables as does an Ang lo d i et but foc uses more on potato- l i ke roots such as yuca and malanga.

One t h i n g ' s for certai n-no one ever leaves La Teres ita h u ngry !

Directions: L a Teresita is a t 3202 West Columbus Drive. From 1-2 75 take the Howard A venue exit and head north. Turn left (west) on Columbus Drive, seven blocks to address. La Teresita is on the south side of the s treet.

While you're here: Tampa is a very sports-minded city, and you 're only a few minu tes away from Tampa Stadium. Catch a pro N FL, USFL, or NA SL game with the Tampa Bay Bucca­neers, Bandits, or Ro wdies, respectively. Then drive out to the Tampa International Airport, so weI/-designed that it has become the model for airports in many other cities. For another vie w of the urban landscape go up to the observa­tion deck.

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La Teresita Tampa

QUICK GARBANZO BEAN SOUP

1 on ion 2 smal l or 1 large green pepper 1 clove garlic 1 chorizo (Spanish sausage) % C. Vigo ol ive oi l (or your favorite brand) 1 1 6·oz. can of garbanzo beans (chick peas),

drained 2 cans water % lb . cooking ham (smoked ham or ham hock) cut

into small cubes % t . salt

Cut o n i o n , peppers, gar l i c , and cho rizo i nto sma l l p i eces. Saute i n o l ive o i l u n t i l vegetab les are l i m p. W h i l e vegetab les are saute i n g , m i x garbanzo beans and water in a saucepan and heat . Add sauteed vegetab le m i xt u re, s m oked ham or ham hock, and sa l t and m i x . B r i n g to a bo i l . Red uce heat and s i m m e r for 15 m i n u tes.

Serves: 3-4 Preparat i o n : 1 5-20 m i n u tes Cooki n g : 20-25 m i n utes

"This is a delicious soup that the whole family should enjoy. The chorizo gives the soup a special flavor that complements the garbanzo beans. Serve with a tossed green salad and hot crusty Cuban or French bread. "

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La Teresita Tampa

PALOMILLA STEAK

top butt steak, thinly cut Adobo Criol lo seasoning * (al l ·purpose seasoning

with salt , pepper, garl ic, and onion powder) pork lard or oi l chopped on ions lemon ju ice or sour orange ju ice (optional)

Po und steaks to tender ize . Spri n k l e l i g h t ly or to taste w i th Adobo seaso n i n g . If des i red , spr i n k le w i t h lemon o r s o u r oran ge j u ice . Fry i n pork l ard o r o i l o n both s i des u n t i l d o n e , about 5 m i n u tes. O n i o n s can be fr ied with steak or served raw and s p ri n k led over top . T h i s i s best prepared wel l ·done.

Serves : a l low 6-8 oz. per serv i n g Preparat i o n : 1 0 m i n u tes Cooki n g : 5- 1 0 m i n u tes

"We suggest that you use oil rather than pork lard if you are unfamiliar with the taste."

• Avai lable i n most supermarkets

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La Teresita Tampa

BISTEC EMPANIZADO MILANESA

1 C . spaghetti sauce (you r favorite recipe or a prepared sauce such as Ragu)

Parmesan cheese to taste 2 eggs, raw

about % C. mi lk 1 pkg . Vi go flavoring/coloring (or your favorite

brand) 4 thinly cut top butt steaks (same as for

palomi l la) bread crumbs oi l for frying

2 eggs, hard boi led parsley, chopped red pimiento, chopped

1 C. peas, cooked

Heat s pag hett i sauce wi th Parmesan c h eese in a saucepa n . Keep warm w h i l e you pre pare the steaks. With a fork, beat raw eggs, m i lk , and V i g o f l avori ng! color i ng in a bow l . D i p steaks in bread c ru m bs, then in egg and m i l k m i xt u re, and aga i n in bread c ru m bs . Po u n d steaks l i g h t l y so t hat bread c ru m bs w i l l ad here. Fry breaded steaks q u ick l y, j u st a m i n ute or so on each s ide . Rem ove steaks to p latter. Spread heated s pag hett i sauce ove r the top. G arn ish w i th cru m b l ed hard-bo i l ed eggs, pars l ey, p i m iento, and coo ked peas.

Serves: 4 Preparat i o n : 1 0 m i n utes Cooki n g : 8 m i n u tes

"This flavor combination is unique. Serve with a tossed salad and spicy dressing and some crusty Cuban bread. "

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Mel's Hot Dogs

Tampa Anyone who's ever eaten a kosher V ienna hot dog i n

Chicago knows what the real t h i ng is . And you'l l recogn ize i t i n no t i me f lat at Me l 's Hot Dogs i n Tampa, because that's what is served -kosher Vienna hot dogs from Ch icago. That's where owner Me l Loh n comes from h i mself .

How he came to Tam pa and landed i n the restau rant busi ness is a story in itself . In the ear ly 1970s Mel was a saxo­p hone p layer with a roc k band that was touri ng i n the Tam pa Bay area. When the i r gig was over, everyone ret urned to the M i dwest except Mel , who stayed because he loved the sun­s h i ne. (Where have you heard that before . . . ? ) But because no other restaurant served "red hots" (kosher V ienna hot dogs) in Tam pa, he did the on l y t h i ng he could do and went i nto the bus i ness as M e l ' s Red Hot Ranch .

When a l l h i s cu stomers- w hom he cal l s on a f i rst-name bas is-cal led the p lace, s imp ly, Me l 's Hot Dogs, he too adopted the name. Mou nted and framed on the wal l s of the restaurant are prai ses of the hot dog (wh i c h he c l a ims i s s u peri or t o t h e hambu rger) a n d recog n i t ion for h i s own ef­forts on behalf of the w i ener. B rowse around and ch uckle at

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the cartoons and cari catu res and p i thy sayi ngs about "dogs ." ( " H ave a w i enerf u l day" is typical . ) I t 's g reat enter­tai nment .

What makes M e l 's hot dogs so succ u l e n t is the i r natural cas i n g . Whole beef cuts are stuffed i n s ide by hand and then s lowly smoked. When you b i te down , yo u r teeth p ie rce th is cas ing and i t " pops . " You get a mouthfu l of we l l -seasoned meat. Th i s i s consi derably d i fferent from t h e ord i nary k i n d of sk i n l ess hot dog made w i th meat (not necessari ly beef) and f i l l ers or extenders. I f yo u 've never eaten a kosher-sty le f ran k before, you ' re i n for a t reat. Be sure to i ns ist on the bright g reen re l i s h for a garn i s h - it 's the best we've tasted.

Act ua l ly , even i f you have savored t h i s kind before, you ' re st i l l i n for a t reat because M e l 's vers ion has been decl ared top dog in the world by no less a conno isse u r than an ABC news re p who prai sed Mel 's w h i le tour i ng in Europe.

D ig i t , (hot) dog lovers !

Directions: Mel's Hot Dogs is at 4 1 36 Eas t Busch Boule­vard. Take the Busch Boulevard exit east from 1- 75 north or south. Mel's is on the north side of the s treet. Busch Gardens is about one mile wes t.

While you 're here: The state 's second mos t popular tourist attraction next to Walt Disney World is The Dark Continent, Busch Gardens. Besides the re-creation of yesterday 's A frica, don't miss the original tropical garden area, cultivated on land that once was arid and barren. Nearby is the park's Adventure Island for waterslide fun and other water am usements for the whole family. Jus t another mile to the north is the University of South Florida campus, which celebrated its 25th anniversary in 1982. Major athletic events and popular entertainment are offered at the University Sun Dome. Just down the s treet from the main campus entrance is the Museum of Science and Industry, with "hands-on J J ex­hibits for a/l ages.

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Me/ 's Hot Dogs Tampa

REAL CHICAGO-STYLE HOT DOG

1 pure beef natura l casing hot dog (preferably made by Vien na Sausage Manufacturing Company, Chicago)

1 oversize rectangu lar-shaped poppy seed bun yel low mustard sweet Spanish onions, diced bright green hot dog rel ish (cal led "piccal i l ly" in

the M idwest) 1 medium cured kosher di l l pickle, th in ly sl iced

celery salt sweet, r ipe tomato, thinly sl iced water

H eat water in sau cepan to 1 90 ° F. P lace hot dog i n heated water a n d cook u n t i l i t r ises t o t h e top, abou t t w o a n d a ha l f to t h ree m i n utes depend i n g on whether i t 's frozen o r a l ready thawed . Then cook an ad d it io nal 30 seco nds afte r i t has risen and re m ove pro m pt ly . P lac e i n f resh ly steamed * h ot dog b u n . Spread w it h m u stard a n d on ions t o taste , a l i g ht topp ing of re l i s h , tomato s l ices, and a l i g h t s p ri n k l i n g o f celery sal t . Top o f f w i t h d i l l s l i ces . Se rve w i t h f rench fries a n d barre l -c u red (not can ned) saue rkrau t , heated i f y o u l i ke.

Serves: 1 Coo k i n g : 5 m i n utes

"Mel adds, tongue in cheek, 'Wrap in a dirty brown bag _ . _ and enjoy!' A lso, a Chicago-style hot dog is never served with catsup. "

' Steamed buns are popu lar i n Florida; t ry t hem toasted as an alternative.

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MEL'S FRENCH FRIES

Me/'s Hot Dogs Tampa

Grade A extra fancy Idaho potatoes, sl iced and cut in strips.

Pure Grade A vegetable shortening or oil

H eat o i l in s k i l let to 375 ° F. I m m e rse smal l amounts of potatoes at a t i m e for two and a half to t h ree m i n utes u n t i l go lden brown . Remove and d rai n . Salt to taste.

Y ie lds : 1 potato per serv ing Cooki n g : 5- 1 0 m i n utes depend i ng on n u m ber of

serv ings

"Mel adds, also tongue in cheek, 'No hot dog worth its buns is ever served without French fries.' "

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Silver Ring Cafe

Ybor Cify (Tampa) Mention Tam pa to your fr iends and chances are the

symbo ls they' l l t h i n k of fi rst wi l l be ci gars and Cuban sandwiches.

The two go hand i n hand, especial ly in Ybor City, cal led the "crad le of Cu ban l i berty" by h i storians because of the ro le Jose Marti p layed d u ring Cu ba's strugg le for i n dependence f rom Spai n . I n 1886, fol low ing a recom mendat ion from a col leag ue from Key West, Vicente Martinez Ybor establ ish ed a ci gar factory i n Tam pa when labor problems wi th h i s Key West p lant became troub lesome. Duri ng the 1 890s, M arti' was an outspoken and eloquent patriot for the cau se of Cuban freedom. He was ki l l ed in a ski rmish i n Dos Rlos. The h i storic events of the t u rn of the centu ry-the Span ish-American War, the c u l m i nat ion of Cuba's f i g ht for freedom, Ybor City's boom-town days and, l ater, stri kes in the c igar i ndustry-con­tri bute m uch to Tampa's r ich and colorfu l heritage.

As late as the midd le 1 900s, the streets of Ybor City were f i l led with stores that stayed open u nt i l m i d n ig ht, dozens of active restau rants, and g i r ls hawking devi led crabs and hot c hestn uts.

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So reca l ls Angelo Cacciatore , owner of the Si lver R ing Cafe

si nce 1 936. "There was a lot of act ion . . . it was real Lat in -y," he rem i n i sces, someth ing l i ke Litt le Italy in N ew York.

Even though the commun ity has lost many of its former res idents due to u rban pressu res, the d i strict is u ndergo ing a period of u rban renewal that shou ld fu l l y restore its v ital ity i n a few years .

Si nce 1 936, Angelo and h is staff have had the same men u , s imp le but consistent. Staples are Cu ban sandwic hes, Pan can Mantequilla (Cu ban bread and butter) , and Cu ban coffee. The sandwi ches are made fresh every day and are loaded with del i meats, cheese and p i ckles. You can watch the meat bei ng sl iced and the sandwiches bei ng prepared through d i sp lay wi ndows streetside. Several thousand are made every week. The on ly t ime busi ness ever s lows down is at c los ing .

I t ' s no surpr ise that the Si lver R ing Cafe was a w i n ner i n the Tampa Tribune 's Best Cu ban Sandwich Contest and has been a f i nal i st every year the compet i t ion has been he ld . Angelo ins ists that he gets the best bread and meat i n town from the Cas ino Bakery and Fou r Star Meat Products, respectively. They've been supp ly ing h i m for years .

By the way, i f you ' re a basebal l or a box ing fan , Angelo w i l l have p l enty of memories t o share. He's personal ly been t o 25 World Series games.

The S i lver Ring Cafe would certai n l y be a major leag ue contender in a Wor ld Series contest for Cuban sandwiches !

Directions: The Silver Ring Cafe is at 1831 East 7th Avenue. From 1-4 take the 22nd Street exit south. Turn right (west) on 7th Avenue to address. The cate is on the south side of the street.

While you're here: Historic Ybor City is full of markers com­memorating its exciting past. V. M. Ybor's original cigar fac­tory is now Ybor Square, a shopping and dining complex which includes fine antique and gift boutiques. With wrought iron grill work an in tegral part of their architectural design, social clubs for several different ethnic groups dot the streets. The Ferlita Bakery now houses the Ybor City State Museum, containing the original 1896 ovens for baking Cuban bread and displays tracing the history of the town 's cigar industry.

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Silver Ring Cate Ybor City (Tampa)

CUBAN SANDWICH

1 loaf Cuban bread 1 lb. smoked ham, sl iced thin 1 lb. roast pork, s l iced thin % lb. salami, sl iced thin % lb. Swiss cheese, sl iced thin and cut into

1 %-inch strips pickle sl ices lettuce and tomatoes (sl iced), optional mustard and mayonnaise to taste

Cut bread i nto q uarters, about a foot long eac h . S l ice open and p lace descend ing amou nts of ham, pork and salam i i n layers along one half of bread . Spread two strips of Swiss cheese along length of sandwich and add p ic kle s l i ces. Add lett uce and tomato i f des i red. Spread both s i des of bread with m ustard and mayon naise to taste, and c l ose sandw i c h . Warm for a m i n ute to a m i n ute and a half to g et the outs ide of t he bread n i ce and toasty, if you want.

Serves : 4 Preparat ion : 5- 1 0 m i n utes

"Angelo makes two kinds of Cuban sandwiches: a regular one, which he serves with lettuce and tomato, and a special one, which he makes without lettuce and tomato but loaded up with three-quarters of a pound of meat. The loaves of bread are light as a result of more shortening being used during the baking process."

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Paul's Shrimp

Tarpon Springs What the conch i s to Key West, the sponge is to Tarpon

Spri ngs. At least, that's true in terms of a local symbol . But spong ing is more a matter of h i story now in th is smal l , most ly Greek com m u n ity i n northern Pinel las County.

Some of that h i story is preserved in the decor of Pau l 's , famous local ly for boi led shri m p s i nce 1 966. The ori g i nal restau rant , a cou p le of doors down from the present en larged locat ion, featu red a lmost l i fe-s ized murals of some of the fo l ks in town engaged in t rad i t ional G reek c ustoms. Pai nted with com passionate expressions, they're danC ing at a glendi (festival) and st i rri ng a pot of Kavrouma (a sort of meat stew) for the sponge d ivers to take on the boat. A map of "The Land of the I ncred i b le G reeks" p i n po ints which is land each of the owners and h is compatriots hai led from.

New murals l iven the warm wood wal ls of the new Pau l 's , wh ich Steve Tsa l ick is and h is fam i l y have owned s i nce 1 979. Some of the i r fam i l y were in the orig i nal pai nt i ngs, which you can st i l l see if you ask them to point them out to you . Daughter Tu la c u l led through magazi nes a n d private co l l ec­t ions to f i nd photos of Tarpon Spri ngs comm u n ity events from the 1 920s through 1 940s to become part of the cou nter decor at the bar.

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But i t 's the bo i l ed shri m p that Pau l 's is best known for. Order by the pound (about 25 to 30 shri m p per pou nd), and you r p l ate w i l l be served i n the m idd le of the tab le, G reek­style. With everyone at the tab le shari ng , there won't be anyth ing wasted. With the succu lent f lavor of the shri m p en hanced b y l emon j u ice and a touch o f oregano, i t ' s hard to i mag ine that there wou l d be any waste anyway. Li ght ly fri ed smelts are also pop u lar, and i t 's not u ncommon for total strangers to become fr iends eas i ly by pass i ng the i r p lates to nearby tab les for sam ples . .

The menu i sn 't extens ive at th is restau rant. I t 's not Greek in that you won't f i nd Pastitsio or Moussaka, for examp le , both typical favorites. But it is Greek i n the use of lemon j u ice, o l ive o i l , and oregano for de l icac i es such as octopus . The same com bi nat ion is l i kewise a de l i ght w i th a con ch salad that measu res u p to its Key West ori g i n ator.

It shou l d be no s u rpr ise that Pau l 's is pop u l ar not on ly among townsfo l k but also w i th Ital ian customers, who iden ­t i fy w i th the country 's Med i terran ean locat ion , and w i th reg u l ars from around the Tam pa Bay area, who became fam i l iar with the restaurant after several newspaper rev iews. The ex panded b u i l d i n g has h e l ped take care of some of the l i nes, but you should know that even when the eatery f i rst opened with on ly 1 0 tab les and served o n l y shri m p , peop le wou ld wa i t two to th ree hou rs j ust for a pound of shri m p. They wou l d wri te out the i r own checks at the bar.

You j u st can 't keep a good th i ng down .

Directions: Pa ul 's Shrimp is a t 514 A thens Street. From U.S. 19, turn wes t on SR 582 (Tarpon A venue) and north to where it intersects with Alternate 19 (Pinellas A venue). Turn left (west) about three-quarters of a mile further at Dodecanese Boulevard, as if you were going to the Sponge Docks, then left again in three blocks on A thens Street. Paul's is on the east side of the road.

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While you're here: The Tarpon Springs Sponge Exchange and Docks are within walking distance. They 're a colorful way to relive the excitement of wha t used to be a major in­dus try un til a blight during the 1940s reduced the gro wth of sponges. The Un iversal ist Church features pain tings by George Inness, Jr. , son of the famous 19th-cen tury artist. If you 're in to wn on January 6, watch the Epiphany Celebra­tion. Young men dive in to the wa ter, whatever its tempera­ture, vying to retrieve a golden cross for good luck the res t o f the year.

- N OTES -

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Paul 's Tarpon Springs

HORATIKI SALATA (Greek Peasant Salad)

1 6 sl ices feta cheese, 2 inches long 8-1 6 anchovies, whole o r cut up 2-3 tomatoes, cut in chunks 1 large onion, s l iced 1 large cucumber peeled, cut lengthwise, and

halved 2 handfuls black ol ives 1 green pepper, sl iced in rings 2 handfuls hot Greek peppers

ol ive oi l vinegar oregano

Arrange al l i ng redients in alternat ing order on plates, start i ng wi th the feta. Beat together 3 parts oil to 1 part vi negar and pour over salad . Spri nk le wi th oregano.

Serves: 4 Preparat ion: 1 0 m i n utes

"This is the true Greek salad without the lettuce that is called for in the Americanized version."

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PICKLED OCTOPUS

(Al l ow t i m e to marinate overn i ght)

5 Ibs. octopus salt and pepper to taste vinegar water

1 C. cooking oil % C. lemon juice 1 % C. vinegar

oregano fresh garl ic, minced

Paul's Tarpon Springs

Tenderize octopus by boi l i n g i n water w i th a l i t t le salt and v inegar. When sk in i s soft (about 3 0 to 45 m i n utes) remove from water and cool . C lean ski n and remove s l i me . Cut octopus i n smal l p ieces. P lace i n a bowl with o i l , l emon j u ice, and v inegar m ak i n g sure that there are enough j u ices t o cover m eat . Add a little oregano and garl i c . Cover and mari nate at least 2 hours or overn i g ht . Best when served the next day.

Serves: 10 Preparat ion : about 1 hour (p lus t ime to mari nate) Cooki n g : 30-45 m i n utes

"Serve as an appetizer or buffet dish for a crowd. You 'll be a hit !"

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Paul 's Tarpon Springs

BROILED OCTOPUS

5 Ibs. octopus (al low 6-8 oz. per serving) salt water vinegar cooking o i l lemon ju ice lettuce, tomato sl ice, green pepper ring, ol ives,

lemon wedge to garnish each serving

Boi l octopus, as for p i ck led octopus (page 1 43). After c l ean i n g , refr igerate and use as n eeded . Cut octop u s i n to large c h u nks . Cover bottom o f bro i l e r pan w i t h a t h i n f i l m of cook ing o i l . Spr i n k le octopus w i t h lemon j u ice and p lace i n pan w i th a l i tt l e wate r. Bro i l u n t i l brown on eac h s ide, about 3-5 m i n utes. Add a l i t t le more lemon j u ice to the pan ju ices and serve over t h e octopus . G arn ish each serv ing wi th lettuce, tomato s l ices , g reen pepper r ings, o l ives , and lemon wedges .

Serves: 1 0- 1 2 Preparat ion : about 1 hour Cook ing : 3-5 m i n utes

"This may be different, but be sure to try it. You're in for a nice surprise ! "

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CONCH SALAD

(A l low t ime to marinate overn ig ht)

1 lb. raw conch meat, fresh or frozen

Paul 's Tarpon Springs

% bunch scall ions (both g reen and white parts), chopped

% medium onion, chopped 1 medium tomato, chopped % bel l pepper, chopped % stalk celery, chopped 5 oz. oil 4 oz. vinegar 5 oz. lemon j uice (about 3 lemons)

dash black pepper oregano for garnish

Pou nd conch meat for 1 0-1 5 m i n u tes to tenderize i t . Cut i nto %-i nch p ieces. P lace in g l ass or pottery bow l . Add c hopped vegetables , Oi l , v i negar, lemon j u ice, and b lack pepper. M ix we l l . Taste for seaso n i n g . M ari nate overn i g ht or for at least 8 hours . Serve on a co lorfu l p late . Spr i nk le oregano to taste on top.

Serves: 4-6 Preparat ion : 20 m i n utes (p l us mari nat i n g overn i ght)

"This make-ahead dish is an elegant first course. Serve it on a bed of lettuce with a parsley garnish. It will make a conch-lover out of you ! "

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The Chattawav

St. Petersburg Years before the Sunsh ine Skyway Br idge l i n ked St .

Petersburg with Manatee County, there was the Chattaway Drive-I n , a gen u i ne drive- in t hat served on ly beer and w i ne. The l i tt le ye l low wooden b u i l d i ng housed a grocery store, a gas station , and a trol l ey stop. When He len Lund bought it i n 1 950, she expanded i t i nto a f u l l -f ledged restaurant without c hang i ng the exterior. Si nce then i t 's become a local h i stori­cal landmark i n a most p i ct u resq ue sett i n g .

The Coast G u ard Stat ion and t h e Army Reserve were much more act ive i n St. Petersburg i n the 1 950s, and the i r personne l kept The Chattaway busy. A long came the pas­sengers taking the ferry to Pal metto and the work men who bu i l t the Skyway. That 's when He len began to prepare mea ls i n earnest, to m eet the construct ion workers ' demands for "take-away" food .

He len had no prev ious restaurant experie n ce. " I used to work for Western U n i on pou nd i ng a typew riter," s he rem i ­n i sces. But she did entertain a lot at home, and every n i g ht she wou l d t h i n k of somet h i ng u n i q u e to pre pare.

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Although it began wi th j ust a fried c h i cken and h amburger men u (The Chattaway is st i l l famous for i ts "Chattaburger"), the restau rant now featu res d i fferent da i ly specia ls as wel l .

The restaurant's am biance perfect ly f i ts the i mage of an earl ier St . Petersburg . B i te i nto your b u rger u nder a gracefu l jacaranda t ree shad i ng you r a l fresco p icn ic table . You ' l l fee l beachy at the s haded counter and bar. You ' l l feel Southern cou ntry nostalg i c on the enc losed verandah or i n the rust ic o ld-t i me i n door d i n i ng room that has one of o n l y two table­top sh uffleboard games left in the c i ty . Wal l s are decorated with Eng l ish-born daughter- in - law J i l l 's co l l ect ions from Br i t ish trave l s - i l l ustrat ions of famous b u i l d i ngs , souve n i rs of the Royal Wedd i ng , and p lates from wherever.

You ' l l d i scover the "Other Flor ida" at The Chattaway i n its very casual charm.

Directions: The Chattaway is at 358 22nd A venue South. From 1-275 head east at the 22nd Avenue South exit. The Chattaway is at the in tersection of 22nd A venue and 4th Street South, on the southeast corner. It's just across from the St. Petersburg Tennis Club, where Chris Evert-Lloyd and other famous tennis stars have trained.

While you're here: The restaurant is across the street from Lake Maggiore, a popular sit� for relaxing and boat racing. The Boyd Hi l l Nature Trail is adjacent. Within minutes is the Salvador Dal i Museum, adjacent to the St. Petersburg cam­pus of the University of South Florida. The Oali Museum periodically rotates pain tings and obj ets d 'art from its collection. It's a major addition to the roster of fine arts resources in the Tampa Bay area. Bartlett Park, just across the street from The Chattaway, has an excellen t tennis club, open to the public for a small fee.

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The Chattaway St. Petersburg

QUICK BARBECUE SAUCE

% medium onion, chopped % green pepper, chopped % clove garl ic, mi nced 2 T. margarine 1 qt. catsup 1 T. chi l i powder % t. Tabasco sauce % C. vinegar % C. sugar % C. Worcestersh ire sauce

dash fresh pepper (or to taste)

Saute on i on , g reen pepper, and garl i c i n margari ne. Add cat s u p and other i ngred ients . M ix wel l and s immer 15 m i n utes. Keep ref rigerated in a t i g h t l y covered contai ner- f lavor g ets better a s you store.

Y ie lds : a l i t t le more than a q uart Preparat ion : 1 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : 1 5 m i n utes

IIHe/en Lund, The Chatta way's well·known owner, says that her customers adore this sauce. We strongly agree with her guests. Use for beef, pork, or chicken, or use your imagination. II

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AMERICAN SAUERBRATEN

5 Ibs. boneless chuck cooking oi l for browning salt

1 large onion, cut in chunks 2 C. vinegar 1 C. water 20 gingersnaps (more, i f des ired)

The Chattaway St. Petersburg

Brown m eat on a l l s ides. Add salt to taste and on ions . After brow n i ng , add v i negar and water. Cont i n ue to add water u n t i l meat is done. Remove meat f rom sauce. Take 20 or more g i ngersnaps , soften wi th water, and add to g ravy to t h icke n . S immer 3 to 4 hours .

Serves : 1 0- 1 2 Preparat ion : 5 m i n utes Cook i n g : 4 hours

"Try to make this in advance so that you can skim off the fat and then re·heat the meat in the gra vy. You'll enjoy this easy recipe with its continental taste. "

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.... c co � :::J co en Q) a:

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Jack's Skyway Restaurant

St. Petersburg The Navy d i d n 't real i ze the special ized knowledge it was

p lac i n g i n the hands of Jack Thomas when he was a mess cook years back. Si nce t hat t i me, al though he g rad uated from the U n ivers ity of F lor ida and p u rsued a successfu l career as an eng i neer w i th t h e Tampa El ectric Com pany, Jack h as never forgotten the standard N avy rec i pes and menus . . . w i t h , of course, h i s own c u l i nary i mprovements.

Jack's Skyway opened after a re lat ive t urned J ack on to O'Nei l l ' s S kyway Boat Bas i n . Jack p u rchased O ' N e i l l 's i n 1 976 and re named i t Jack's Skyway Restaurant. Si nce then he 's captured d i st i ng u ished f i shermen , Canad i ans and even the London press, and j ust about everyon e who's stopped i n ever s ince.

Jack and h is w i fe, Caro l , cont i n u e to create exc i t i n g rec i ­pes . The i r c l assics are based on what Jack learned about cooki ng eggs in the service and featu re an assortment of omelets, breakfast d e l i g hts, and the best ch i l i . What he labels "Jack's S.O.S." i s a tantal iz ing creamed sausage (use the extra hot) on a b iscu i t , not l i ke what you m i g h t remem ber if you were i n the service. Th is c u l i n ary entrepreneur i s

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famous, too, for h i s pecan waffl es, banana pancakes, home­made b iscu its, and home-fried potatoes (g reat ! ) .

I t 's easy to see why Jack's Skyway has become a F lor ida t rad i t ion . Though the restau rant seats on ly about 50 peop le , J ack is l i ke ly to serve about 1 ,000 b iscu i ts a week, 2,500 eggs, 4,000 cups of coffee, 45 pounds of bacon , 1 00 pou nd s of sausage, a n d 400 pounds o f potatoes. H ey, that ai n 't small potatoes !

Part of the experience of d i n i ng at J ack 's is the naut ica l decor re-creat i ng a sh i p 's portho les a n d l i fe preservers.

Jack welcomes you with a big gri n . H e' l l chat a w h i l e and enjoy you r com pany !

Directions: Jack's Skyway Restaurant is at 6701 34th Street South. Take 1-275 south as far as you can and follow signs to U. S. 19 to Bradenton when you exit. U.S. 19 is 34th Street; just follow it to the north end of the Sunshine Skyway. Jack 's is just north of the toll plaza, on the west side of the street. Or, coming from Bradenton, follo w U. S. 19 north, past the Skyway to the restaurant.

While you're here: The St. Petersburg H i storical Museum (Ht;J.as Museum) re-creates the city's past and displays fur­nishings and items from old pioneer families. Also nearby is one of Pinellas County's most popular outdoor recreation areas, Fort DeSoto Park. The beach, picnic areas, and fishing are among the most pleasant in the area.

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Jack 's Skyway Restaurant St. Petersburg

BAKED BEANS "OLD NAW BREAKFAST /I

1 46·oz. can of pork and beans, your favorite brand % C. catsup % C. water % C. brown s ugar 2 t. Worcestershire sauce 4 t. prepared m ustard (Gu lden's is good) % C. minced onion, fresh 3 strips smoked bacon or blanched salt pork,

uncooked, cut into b ite·size pieces

M ix all i n g re d ie nts we l l and p l ace in a shal l ow d i s h or pan . Bake u ncove red f o r 45 m i n utes a t 325 o f. Serve w i t h corn m u f f i n s and pre-coo ked s m o ked sausage, about 1 -1 % i n c h es i n d i ameter (fr ied for best res u l ts).

Serves : 6-8 Preparat i o n : 5-8 m i n utes Coo k i n g : 45 m i n u tes

"These beans are good day and night. "

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Jack 's Skyway Restaurant St. Petersburg

FISHERMAN'S CHOWDER

1 46·oz. can of clam chowder 2 cans whole mi lk (use 46·oz. chowder can to

measure) 1 qt. chowder mix * (see below), thawed % cup cornstarch, dissolved in some of the above

mi lk 1 t . white pepper 1 T. salt 1 T. MSG (monosodium glutamate)

butter

Gent ly and thorou g h l y combine a l l i n g re d i e nt s . Cook i n a doub le-bo i l er or in a l arge pot over low heat for about 1 hour. St i r frequent ly . Serve w i t h a do l l op of butter on top of each serv i n g .

Y i e l d s : 1 2- 1 4 bow l s Preparat i o n : 1 0 m i n utes Coo k i n g : 1 h o u r

*CHOWDER M IX

1 C. water chestnuts, s l iced in %·inch pieces (reserve l iquid)

% C. clams, chopped in %·inch pieces 1 C. raw boneless fish, cut in %·inch pieces 1 % C. canned yel low corn , undra ined

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Jack's Skyway Restaurant St. Petersburg

Com b i n e a l l i n g red ients . I f you are freez i n g for l ater use, make s u re so l ids are covered with l i q u i d from corn and c h estnuts .

Y ie lds : 1 q u art (can be mad e i n l arger q uant i t ies and froze n)

Preparat i o n : 1 0 m i n utes

"Jack suggests slicing the chestnuts by hand instead of with a food processor. The difference in texture is worth the extra elbow grease. "

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Doe-AI Countrv Cookin'

South Pasadena You rea l l y can 't com pare Southern coo k i ng w i th "sou l

food " at Doe-AI Cou ntry Cook in ' . As owner Doretha Bacon explai ns, "The 'Southern ' refers to the area, u s i ng Southern­g rown vegetables put together in a Southern way. My ver­s ion of 'so u l food' i s a rec i pe you can do anywhere. I t 's what a person fee l s . It stems from not u s i n ' (wr i tten) rec i pes but cook in ' f rom the i ns i de . J u st a das h of t h i s and a dash of that . . . . "

Mrs. Bacon's vers ion of popu lar Southern d i shes comes from her own experi e nce. A nat ive of St. Petersb urg , she went to school in New York and then became a d iet ic ian for a large hospi tal and n u rs ing home. When her h usband was i n the service, they t rave led freq uent ly and sam p led food at restau rants everywhere, part i cu larly i n the South . Doretha was a pro at tak ing food backstage at theaters where her brothers, who were professional jazz m us ic ians, performed.

She decided to enter the restau rant bus iness because she loved sales an d peop le contact. Doretha o pened the f i rst Doe-AI Co u ntry Kitchen in south st. Petersburg in 1 969. Soon after, the name was changed to Doe-AI Country

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Cook in ' . N ow two restau rants are operat i n g ; one i n South Pasadena and another in north St. Petersburg .

Barbecue was the ori g i nal spec i alty . I n add i t ion to the barbec ue, the Doe-AI now featu res a fam i ly-sty le men u , with Southern Fr ied Ch i cken , Brunswick Stew , Caj un R ice , B lack-Eyed Peas, and many other reg i onal favorites. Wh i le the l u nch menu is pr i nted , the d i n n er menu is scr ibb led by han d , on a paper bag no less, to accommodate day-to-day changes. Corn Meal M uff i ns accom pany most orders, or you can order extras . They're served p i p i ng hot, w i th a large do l lop of butter on the s ide. I t 's tough to eat j u st one !

Doretha rare ly s lows down except for an ann ual vacat ion . Duri ng the ho l i day season , she mai ntai ns a hect ic pace­from superv is i ng the bak ing of 200 p ies a week to add i n g f i n ish i ng touches on newly made curta ins.

Bri ng the fam i l y to enjoy a tasty home-cooked meal p repared w i th lots of warmth . Serv ings are as ge nerous as the hosp i tal i ty, and you ' l l get a wholesome l u nch or d i n ner for less t han you'd pay at fast food p l aces. And don 't forget to sam p le the k ing -s ize choco late c h i p and oatmeal cookies. They ' re a f ind you won' t forget.

Directions: There are two locations. Doe-AI Country Cookin ' is a t 1480 Pasadena A venue South in St. Petersburg, From 1-275 in St. Petersburg, turn wes t a t the 22nd A venue South exit. 22nd A venue becomes Gulfport Boulevard, which you will follo w along the Pasadena Golf Course un til it in ter­sects with Pasadena A venue. Turn left to address; the Doe­AI is across the s treet from the Palms of Pasadena Hospital. Or, from U. S. 19 north or south, turn west at 22nd A venue South and follo w same directions.

Doe-A I Coun try Cookin 's second location is at 1 126 62nd A venue North in St. Petersburg. From 1-275 South, take the 54th Avenue North exit and head east to 1 6th Street. Turn north on 16th Street, then east onto 62nd A venue to address.

While you 're here: Less than a half-hour drive north is Heritage Park, in Largo. Several of Pinellas Coun ty's oldes t buildings have been preserved in a wooded setting, and docents give tours explaining the lifes tyle of families tha t settled the area i n the 1800s. Some of the old-fashioned kit­chen utensils in the "Seven Gables " house are particularly in teresting.

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Doe-AI Country Cookin ' South Pasadena and St. Petersburg

CAJUN RICE

(Prepare r ice ahead)

6 C. hot cooked rice (Uncle Ben's or your favorite brand)

% C. bacon fat or vegetable oi l 1 large onion, chopped 3 ribs celery, chopped 1 large green pepper, chopped % C. parsley, chopped 1 % Ibs. sausage meat, ground (sweet, if avai lable) % lb. chicken gizzards, cooked, chopped 2 chicken boui l lon cubes % C. water % t. red pepper % t. garlic powder % t. powdered thyme 1 t. salt

Saute vegetab les in bacon fat u n t i l c lear, abou t 1 0 m i n utes. Add sau sage m eat and c h i c ken g i zzard s t o vegetab les by " c h o p p i n g i n " t h e m eat. Cont i n ue to cook. D i ssolve bo u i l lon c u bes i n water and ad d to m eat and vegetab les . Add seaso n i n g s and s i m m er 1 0 m i n utes. Add to hot , cooked r ice. Toss or m ix wel l and serve.

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Doe-A I Coun try Cookin ' South Pasadena and St. Petersburg

Serves: 8- 1 0 Preparat ion : R i ce - 20-30 m i n utes . M ixture -

1 0 m i n utes (M rs . Bacon recommends chopp ing vegetab les by hand rat her t han in a food processor to preserve the r ight text u re)

Cooki n g : 20 m i n utes

"By cooking the rice separate from the seasonings mixture, the Cajun Rice dish retains a nice texture. For best results, prepare the rice loose and dry, rather than too moist or sticky. Be careful not to use too much garlic, so it won 't spoil quickly. "

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Doe-AI Coun try Cookin ' South Pasadena and St. Petersburg

FRIED SUMMER SQUASH CASSEROLE

� lb. bacon, chopped 4 Ibs. yel low squash, s l iced 2 large onions, sl iced � t. salt � t. pepper 1 T. sugar

Fry bacon . Do not d ra in fat. Add s l i ced sq uas h and o n ions and saute . M i x seaso n i n g s tog ether and spr i n k l e eve n l y ove r vegetables in pan. Cont i n u e to cook over m e d i u m heat, st i rr ing constant ly w i t h a fork, about 1 5 to 1 8 m i n utes. Be caref u l not to break up vegetab les so as to lose text u re .

Serves: 6-8 Preparat i o n : 10 m i n utes Cook i n g : 1 5- 1 8 m i n u tes

"You won 't have to add any liquid to this dish-the moisture comes from the squash and onions. A constant stirring will prevent pieces of the vegetables from sticking to the pan. 11

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Doe-AI Country Cookin 1 South Pasadena and St. Petersburg

SOUTHERN FRIED CHICKEN

1 3-lb. fryer, cut in 6-8 pieces salt and coarse black pepper to taste

2 C. self ·rising flour 1 C. buttermi lk

vegetable shortening

Season fryer w i th salt and coarse black pepper to taste . Let stand 3 hours. To bread , d i p i n d iv idua l p ieces f i rst i n f lou r, then i n butterm i l k , t hen back in f lo u r. Fry covered , at 350 ° F. , i n heavy sk i l let w i t h enough vegetab le shorte n i ng t o cover c h icken p ieces about ha l f way u p . Turn cont i n ua l l y u n t i l done, about 1 5 to 20 m i n utes.

Serves : 4 Preparat ion : 1 0 m i n utes p l us 3 hours to stand Cook i n g : 20 m i n utes

"Covering the skillet creates steam and moisture to make this fried chicken just right. Thank you Mr. & Mrs. Bacon. "

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Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish

South Pasadena Smoked m u l l et and mackerel are the specia l t ies at Ted

Peters Famous Smoked F ish , yet i t 's bee n said that t h i s l ocal landmark cou l d keep a ro l l i c k i n g bus i ness go ing j u st with ham burgers, even if the supp ly of f ish were to d ry u p .

Ted had been i n t h e smoked f ish busi ness a n d opened a f ish house after World War l i on St. Petersburg Beach . Not long after, he ran the Caro l i na I n n , formerly located next door to where the restaurant now stands. He asked his ha l f­brother, E l ry Lathrop, to manage the busi n ess d u ri ng sum­mer break. E l ry was studyi ng accou nt ing i n co l l eg e and ran the show h i mself w h i l e Ted trave l ed aro u nd the country. They became partners and opened the restau rant in 1 950, work ing together for about 1 0 years and then tak i ng turns , every other month , for the next 14 years. Ted 's now ret i red, and E l ry and h is son M i ke are cont i n u i ng the booming bus i ness.

Every year they smoke abou t 1 35,000 pou nds of f ish in the l i tt le smokehouse next to the restau rant b u i l d i ng . They use nat ive red oak to smoke and f lavor the f ish, wh ich is p laced on racks over a smou l der ing f i re and cooked for four to s ix

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hours. The meat of the m u l l et has a nut- l i ke f lavor, and the natural o i l between the sk in and the meat h e l ps to cook the f ish s lowly and keep it from d ry ing out . M ackerel a lso has a h i g h o i l content but the sk in i s not so th ick as w i th m u l let. You can savor the smoked f ish on the premises, at the shaded counter or at a p icn ic tab l e or i ns ide i n the cozy d i n i n g room (the f i rep l ace keeps it warm in the w i n ter), or you can take some home. Don't be su rprised if seag u l l s keep you com­pany when you d i n e outs ide.

The menu is de l i berately l i m i ted because, as M i ke says, they want to maintai n h i g h q ua l i ty w i th ju st a few fam i l iar i tems. That keeps a good tu rnover rate at the tables, wh ich m eans that many more peopl e can enjoy the food .

One other spec ialty is potato salad, which arrived on the menu al most by acc ident. M i ke's g randmot her, M at i lda Lathrop, had been han d l i ng the kitchen for years. One day, a l arge group made a reservat ion , and she s i m ply refused, f lat out, to make French fr ies for so many. I ndependent character that she was, she said, "I know what I ' l l do. I ' l l make German potato salad ! " And she drew on what she had learned w h i l e l iv ing i n Germany a s a c h i ld . T h e resu l t i ng potato salad is now another famous menu item.

I f you l ive i n town , bring your ou t-of-state fr iends and re lat ives. If you are from out of town, you' l l probabl y ret u rn home wi th new fri ends.

Directions: Ted Peters Famous Smoked Fish is at 1350 Pasadena A venue South. From 1-275 in St. Petersburg, turn wes t at the 22nd A venue South exit. 22nd A venue becomes G ulfport Boulevard, which you will follo w along the Pasa­dena Golf Course (home of the Orange Blossom Classic) un­til it intersects with Pasadena A venue. Turn left to address. Ted Peters is on the east side of the s treet. Or, from U. S. 19 north or south, turn wes t at 22nd A venue South and follow same directions.

While you're here: Stay on Pasadena A venue and cross the causeway to SI- Petersburg and Pass-a-Gri l le Beaches to soak in the sun. Take Pasadena A venue back the other direc­tion and visit the planetarium and observatory at SI- Peters­burg J unior Col lege. Several programs are offered from Labor Day through m id-May. Park Street, a scenic residential drive, is nearby.

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Ted Peters Smoked Fish St. Petersburg

SMOKED FISH SPREAD

2 C. f inely d iced onion 1 C. finely d iced celery 1 % C. sweet relish with pimiento 1 % qts. Kraft M i racle Whip Salad Dressing 3% qts. f laked smoked fish (boned), mu l let

preferred

M ix i n g red ients we l l . Ch i l l . Best if served i n 2 t o 3 days.

Serves: a party Preparat ion : 1 0 m i n utes

"It's so good you could eat a whole gal/on yourself. "

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Hampton's

Te l l somebody someth ing often enough , and after a wh i l e they ' l l bel ieve yo u , espec ia l ly i f i t 's true.

That 's what happened to earn Hampton's the ri g ht to say on the men u , "Worl d ' s Best Ch icke n . " So many c u stomers gave it that l abel that J oan and J ac k Ph i l l i ps deci ded to adopt i t as the i r s l ogan i n the 1 970s . They've been de l iveri ng on that pro m i se ever s i nce, and today owners Gary and Barry M oore are cont i n u i n g the trad i t i o n , serv i ng exce l l ent fr ied ch ic ken .

Joan says i t 's not the rec i pe that's so specia l but the method of cook i n g . They u se a h i g h-press u re broaster that's so large i t won' t f it in the typical home pantry. I t c reates 350 pou nds of pressure and req u i res q u i te a b i t of know-how both to operate and to take apart and c lean , Joan expla i ns . Maybe a un i t l i ke a Wearever wou ld work a t home , some­t h i ng that seals the j u ices i n , but i t j ust wou l d n 't be the same as at Hampton 's . . . .

At any rate, J ac k was the restaurant's very f i rst c h i c ken cook. You can te l l that c h i c ke n is the heart and sou l of t h i s restaurant n ot o n l y from t h e food i tself and the popu larity o f

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the take-out wi n dow, but also f rom the col lect ion of ch icken statues and memorab i l ia. The overs ize ch i cken near the front entrance was made j u st for them. They've eve n mou nted it on a d u n e b uggy to r ide i n Christmas parades on the beac h .

I f you want to know t h e secret of al l those f u l l -bod ied f l avors in Ham pton's rec i pes, heed Joan 's advi ce: save everything. Keep a b ig jar to f i l l u p i n the refri gerator, and save leftover vegetables for sou p. When you cook meat, save the d r ipp ings and use them as a base for sauces and g ravy. Cal l i t " Ma's Kett le" and don't th row anyt h i ng away. Throw i n a heal thy dose of Accent and very l i t t le salt . You ' l l get more m i leage o u t o f your food d o l l ar for de l ic ious casseroles and stews . (Be s u re to bo i l the accu m u l ated f lavori ngs before re-use and to use them w i t h i n j u st a few days.)

Good val ue is what's kept peop le com i ng back to " mama's house " year after year, says Joan . There are stu­dents from Embry R idd le Aeronaut ical Un iversity , race crew members, sen i or c i t izens, and m u n i c i pal workers. Eve n pat ients who've been i n the hospital seem to start the i r recovery d iets here.

Hampton's is also known for its foot- long hot dogs, " l i ke you g rew u p on . " Don't be ch icken . . . t ry one !

Directions: Hampton 's is at 1 1 1 6 Mason Avenue. From U. S. 92 (Volusia Avenue) heading east, turn north on Clyde Morris Boulevard, past the hospitals to Mason Avenue. Turn east on Mason to address, on the north side of the street.

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While you're here: Go for a ride on the Beach. ("00 not pass Go, do not collect $200 . . . . ") It's the key to what firs t made Daytona famous. Of course, if you 're in to wn during any of the race weeks, you'll spend your time at the Daytona Inter­national Speedway, rubbing elbows with greats like Richard Petty and A.J. Foyt in local grub and beer centers. From a quiet, mellow spirit the rest of the year, these same spots take on a totally differen t character when thousands of students pour into town for Spring Break. Off-season visit the home of Mary McLeod Bethune, well-known black educator and founder of what eventually became Bethune­Cookman College. About a half-hour's ride north of Daytona Beach near Flagler Beach are the Bulow Plantation Ruins, once a magnificent and prosperous en terprise un til its destruction in 1836 during the Second Seminole War.

- N OTES -

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Hampton 's Daytona Beach

MOIST CHICKEN LIVERS

1 lb. chicken l ivers, washed and patted dry (al low 6-8 oz. per serving)

oi l for deep frying commercial breading mix or flour to which

Accent has been added 2 medium onions, chopped

gravy mix· butter

D i p l ive rs in b read i n g or f l o u r and deep fry as i f p repari n g fri ed c h icken . Set as ide . Saut e o n i o n s i n some butter and st i r i nto g ravy m i x . Po u r m i xture ove r l ivers and let s i t for 1 5 m i n utes. N ext saute l ive rs i n butter or o i l u n t i l warmed.

Serves: 2-4 Preparat i o n : 10 m i n utes Cooki n g : about 5 m i n utes eac h for fry i n g and

saute ing

"Chicken livers cooked this way are tender and delicious. Serve with rice or buttered pasta."

• Avai lable packaged i n your local supermarket, o r use y o u r own .

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BAKED BEANS

2 oz. l iquid smoke 2 oz. vinegar 2 oz. Worcestershire sauce 1 lb. brown sugar 1 lb. l ight brown sugar % gal lon catsup

Hampton 's Daytona Beach

leftover barbecue meat, chopped (or commercially prepared barbecue sauce with pork or beef added)

3 cans Showboat baked beans or your favorite brand

Com b i n e l i q u i d smoke, vi negar, Worcesters h i re , brown sugars, a n d catsup , a n d heat j ust to t h e boi l i ng poi nt . S t i r occas iona l ly to m e l t su gars a n d b l e n d i n g red ients . A d d leftover barbec ue meat and baked beans. St ir frequent ly u nt i l m i xt u re t h i c kens . For an extra taste t reat , d ip fr ied ch i c ken in sauce.

Serves : 8- 1 0 as a main d ish Preparat ion : 5 m i n utes Cook i n g : 1 0- 1 5 m i n utes

"Adding the barbecue meat gives the beans a delicious flavor. Here 's a good Sunday night supper recipe. "

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Hampton 's Daytona Beach

PICKLED BEETS

(A l l ow t i m e to c h i l l )

1 1 6-oz. can crinkle cut beets (straight cut beets may be substituted, but the crinkle type absorbs the f lavor better)

% C. sugar 3 T. vinegar

Dra in j u ice f ro m canned beets i nto a saucepan and set beets as ide . Add sugar and v i negar to j u i ce and bri ng to a bo i l . Add beets and br ing to a bo i l agai n . Let s i t at roo m tem perat u re, abo ut 2 h o u rs, t o cool d own before c h i l l i n g . Be caref u l not to ove rcook beets as they w i l l f l ake.

Y ie lds : abo u t 4 c u p s Preparat ion : 5 m i n utes p l u s coo l i n g and c h i l l i ng

t i m e Cook i n g : about 1 0 m i n utes

liThe degree of pickling in this dish is just right. Or, you can add sliced raw onions for a different flavor. "

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2 C. water

LUCY'S BANANA PIE

1 % oz. dry mi lk (low·fat base) 1 % oz. cornstarch % C . sugar 2 eggs % t. vani l la

Hampton's Daytona Beach

1 %-2 bananas, sl iced (depending on pie shel l size) 1 pre·baked pie shell

whipped cream or Cool Whip

St i r water, m i lk , and cornstarch in saucepan u nt i l corn starc h is thoroug h ly m ixed i n . Br ing to bo i l and add remai n i n g i n g red ie nts except f ru i t . St i r with w i re wh isk u nt i l m i xt u re t h ickens. D iv ide and fo ld i nto p ie s he l l . Add banana s l ices in layers . Ch i l l . Add w h i pped cream or Cool W h i p and serve.

Y ie lds : 1 p ie Preparat ion : 1 0- 1 5 m i n utes p lus 1 hour to c h i l l

"For variations, use % C. coconut instead o f o r in addition to bananas. For Peanut Butter Pie, cook base thicker so that it doesn't become runny when peanut butter is added. Sprinkle flour o ver % C. peanut butter in bowl. Knead with a fork into 1·inch balls and add to base instead of bananas. "

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<1l :g o u:::: Ul OJ c -.:::: a. r/) c o OJ ....J OJ o OJ Ul :::l o I OJ

� ro OJ :::l r/) ..c Ul C <1l a. r/)

"0 (5

Page 189: Florida Cracker Cookin

The Old Spanish Sugar Mill

Deleon Springs Without a doubt, the most u n usual restau rant i n a l l of

Florida's state recreat ion areas is the O ld Span ish Sugar M i l l at De leon Spri ngs. The park was private ly operated unt i l 1 982, when the state purchased i t , but the Schwarze fam i ly cont i nues to operate the m i l l and the gridd le house as they have si nce 1 962.

What 's so u n usua l is not on ly the m i l l i tse l f but how the pancakes are prepared there. I n s ide the restaurant, long wooden tables have rectangu lar e lectric g ridd les sunken i nto their tops. You pour the batter (prepared from g rai ns ground on the French buhr m i l l stones) on the gr idd le you rse l f and f ix them just the way you l i ke !

Now what cou l d b e more "down home" than that? The n i ce t h i n g is that you don't have to worry about c l ean i ng u p .

Patty Schwarze te l l s t h e m i l l 's story. T h e ori g i nal struc­tu re, bu i l t long before the Civi l War, was a sugar m i l l . Dur ing that war i t was used for corn that was s h i p ped down the St. John 's R iver. The m i l l bu rned down but was reb u i l t . later i t became ru n -down agai n . Patty's father, a f i fth -generat ion g rist m i l l er who had always loved o ld b u i l d i ngs , got together with the park owners and restored the m i l l h i m se l f.

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Today's b u i l d i ng l ooks l i ke an o l d cou ntry store with a fr iend ly , cam p-l i ke atmosphere. With the fresh-water spri n g a n d s lop ing lawn outs ide for su n n i ng , i t 's t h e perfect d ay camp sett i ng for the whole fami ly. Even the peacocks get i nto the act. The males spread their bright ly-h ued feathers so often that the s ight i sn 't a novelty but rather is an expected element of natu ral beauty.

In add i t ion to the cook- 'em-yourse l f pancakes, there's an assortment of other breakfast i tems, hot and co ld sand­w i ches, salads , fru i t , and cheese- everyt h i ng you'd take with you if you were pack ing a p i c n i c basket. But the spec ialty rema ins the select ion of f resh , stone-g rou n d f lours f o r the pancakes and fresh-baked b read . These i n­c l ude whole wheat, rye, natural whi te , soya, sprouted wheat, and f ive-g ra in honey. I t 's a labor of love to make the f lour. Even though the park c loses down for the n i g h t and the restau rant c loses wi th i t , the m i l l stays busy, bak ing bread u n t i l the wee hours of the morn i n g . I t 's a cost ly and t i m e­consu m i ng p rocess, but i t 's a smal l pr ice to pay for real , wholesome food .

Go on out and spend the day !

Directions: From 1-4 East or West, take U.S. 1 7-92 North, just north of Deltona, through DeLand and into DeLeon Springs. Stay on 1 7-92 and follo w signs to the park.

While you 're here: If the day at the park isn 't enough, you can visit the Pioneer Settlement for the Creative Arts, a museum and winter crafts school in a pioneer homestead environment. It 's located jus t off the intersection of 1 7-92 and SR 40. Be sure to visit the kitchen and see how jellied citrus candies are made. Then backtrack to DeLand and visit Stetson University, another Florida landmark, many of whose buildings date from the 19th cen tury. Save time especially for the Rice Planetarium.

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The Old Spanish Sugar Mill DeLeon Springs

GRANOLA CEREAL

4 Ibs. rol led oats % lb. shredded coconut % lb. macro * f laked rye % lb . macro f laked wheat % lb. sunflower seeds % lb . mi l lett 6 oz. sesame seeds 1 C. vegetable o i l , preferably non·hydrogenated 1 C. honey

cashews raisins dates

M i x g ra i n s and seeds. Co m b i n e o i l and honey and add to d ry m i xt u re . Bake at 300 O F. u nt i l brow n , st i rr ing frequent ly . Add a n y amount des i red o f cas hews, ra i s i n s , and dates. Store i n t i g ht ly covered contai ners.

Yie lds: a very large q u ant ity ! (20-30 l arge serv i n g s) Preparat i o n : 1 0 m i n utes Cooki n g : depends on q uant i ty

"Not only is this a delicious cereal, it 's also a great snack!

• Avai lable i n health food stores

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The Old Spanish Sugar Mill DeLeon Springs

SOY GRITS FOR BALANCED PROTEIN BREAD

% C. soybeans * per pound of dough or f lour you r favorite whole wheat bread recipe (such as

Tassajara)

Toast soybeans to m ake g ri ts for 1 0 m i n u tes at 400 of. Crac k in a V i tam ix or b lender or hand m i l l , a few at a t i m e . "Th row" cracked soybean c h u n ks i nt o favori te who le wheat rec i pe and bake b read per usual i n struct ions .

Y ie lds : 1 loaf Preparat ion : 1 5 m i n utes p l u s bread rec i pe Cooki n g : depends on you r rec ipe

"This bread has a nutty texture and contains lots of protein for a good, nutritious treat. "

• Avai lable in healt h food stores

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The Old Spanish Sugar Mill DeLeon Springs

CARAWAY BAKED POTATOES

5-6 baking potatoes, scrubbed 2 C. rye flour

water 1 C. unbleached white flour 2-3 T. ground caraway

Bake the potatoes for 1 0 m i n utes in a 350 OF . ove n and then cool com pletely. M ix e n o u g h water i nto the f lours and caraway to make a t h i c k d o u g h . Knead for a few m i n utes if necessary . Wrap eac h potato in a layer of d o u g h and seal edg es wi th water. Bake i n a 350 O F. ove n (d i rect ly o n the oven rac k) for 45 to 60 m i n utes. Serve with cas i n g o n and b utter o n the s i d e .

Serves: 5-6 Pre parat i o n : 5- 1 0 m i nutes Cooki n g : 45-60 m i n utes

"We found that the preliminary baking of the potatoes before wrapping in dough ensured that both the potato and dough would be cooked at the same time."

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Oviedo Inn

Oviedo A short r ide away from Orlando's bust l i ng tou rist i nd u st ry

and burgeon ing e lectron ics f i rms, there's a q u i et l i tt le have n where it 's l i ke go i ng to G randma's to spend a day i n the cou ntry .

J ust northeast of O rlando is the smal l town of Oviedo , where Tom and Kath leen Estes run the i r l ove ly Oviedo I n n . Appeari ng see m i ng l y out i n the m i d d l e o f nowhere, t h i s rust ic b u i l d i ng l ooks l i ke a n i ce, l arge home.

I t 's j ust as att ract ive i ns ide as outs ide, with fresh f lowers d ott i ng wooden tables covered w i th p ri nt tab l ec loths. There's a g reat stone f i rep lace and real wood pane l i ng . M uch o f t h i s detai l and the overa l l des ign are a resu l t of Tom's own craftsman s h i p . Even though you probably won 't know the peop le in the p ictures, i t 's f u n to look at the photos on the wal l s from Oviedo H ig h School i n the 1 930s .

The photos on the menu go back to the t u rn of the cen­tu ry, showing the Oviedo area as i t u sed to be. " Ed i torial " comments on the menu g ive c l ues about each d i s h , for ex­ample , spec ia ls that are " ready when you are ," and d esserts "to reward you j ust for waki ng up today . " I f you have a cou ntry-s ize appetite, you ' l l more than get your f i l l .

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Desserts are l i sted first on the menu . That 's to t i p you off that they're de l i c ious enough to warrant p l an n i ng the rest of your meal to leave room for them at the end . Tortes , cob­b lers, fru i t mer ing ues, bread pudd i ngs , i ce c ream pies . . . wel l , you get the i dea.

The chef and a l l of the cook ing staff have had outstan d i n g c u l i nary exper ience a n d t rai n i ng , wh ich s h o w o n t h e m e n u and i n the p reparat ion . O n e u nusual ent ree is Boneless Bar­becue Beef Ribs, recommended "for the sauce or because fol ks don 't have to f ight the ri bs to get at al l that good beef."

Homemade soups, sauces, salad d ress ing , c i nnamon rol l s . . . they're al l fresh. M mmm !

Directions: The Oviedo Inn is on SR 426 (Aloma Avenue). From 1-4 in Orlando, take the Colonial Drive exit east to SR 436 (Semoran Boulevard) or the East- West Expressway (toll) to the same road. Follow 436 north and turn east on SR 426, about a 15-minute ride to the Inn, depending on traffic. You can also reach 426 from 1-4 north by taking the SR 436 exit east and following it south, beyond Red Bug and Howell Branch Roads, until it intersects with 426.

While you're here: The Orlando area is known for the world's best theme parks. On the quieter side, not far from Oviedo, is Winter Park, a well-established, older community northwest of the city. Princely oak trees line its main shop­ping street, Park Avenue, and it's home to Rol l ins Col lege, the state 's oldest private school. A scenic boat cruise offers glimpses of old and not-sa-old mansions built along the town 's numerous and delightful lakes. The Morse Art Gallery, with stained glass work by Louis B. Tiffany, is only one of the many art centers in the area.

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Oviedo Inn Oviedo

NEW ENGLAND CORN CHOWDER

2 oz. bacon % cup diced onions % oz. flour 8 oz. chicken stock 1 cup creamed corn 3 small potatoes, d iced and cooked unt i l just

tender % pint whole mi lk, heated % cup l ight cream, heated

sal t , white pepper, and garlic powder to taste

Chop or gr ind bacon. Cook u nt i l bacon starts to render fat . Add on ions and saute u nt i l tender. Add f lou r and mix we l l . Cook wi t hout brow n i n g , 3 to 4 m i n utes. S low ly add c h icken stoc k , st i rr i ng u nt i l smoot h . Add corn , potatoes, m i l k, c ream , and seaso n i ngs . H eat gent ly .

Serves: 5-6 Preparat ion : 1 0 m i n utes Cook i n g : 1 5 m i n utes

"This recipe may come from New England, but try it with fresh Florida corn from Zellwood Statio n ! "

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BAKED HAM AND FRUIT SAUCE

1 ham, ful ly cooked (6-8 oz. per serving) % cup honey

ground cloves to taste 2 cans fruit cocktai l 1 can water 1 T. c innamon 1 t . cloves 5 oz. brown sugar 2 T. apple cider vinegar

cornstarch 1 -2 drops red food coloring (optional)

Oviedo Inn Oviedo

M ake m i xt u re of honey and g round c l oves. Score ham with a sharp kn i fe , maki ng c uts a half- i nch apart . Sm ear honey m i xture on ham and bake for one hour at 350 OF .

FRUIT SAU C E Drai n fru i t cocktai l j u ice i n to a pot and save fru i t for use l ater. Add one can of wate r to f ru i t j u ice and bri ng to a boi l . Add re mai n i n g i n g redients except corn starc h and food color i ng and ret u rn to a bo i l . D i ssolve e n o u g h cornstarc h i n water t o add t o j u i ce to t h i c ken it. S i m mer 3 to 4 m i n u tes. When m i xture i s t h i c kened to des i red cons istency, add fru i t cocktai l . Ret u rn t o bo i l . Add food color i ng i f des i red . Serve fru i t sauce w i th ham.

Serves: 6- 1 0 depe n d i n g on s ize of ham Preparat i o n : ham - 5- 1 0 m i n utes

sauce - 1 0 m i n utes Coo k i n g : ham - 1 hour

sauce - 1 0 m i n utes

"The fruit cocktail can be substituted with canned apricots or peaches but omit the cloves. H

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Oviedo Inn Oviedo

APPLESAUCE

1 0 large cooking apples 1 C. water 1 C. sugar 2 t . nutmeg 1 t. cinnamon

Was h , pare and q uarter apples. Re move core. P l ace apples i n sau cepan w i t h water. Cook over m ed i u m heat, covered , u n t i l tender, about 1 5-20 m i n utes. St i r in s ugar, nutmeg, and c i n n amon. Red u c e heat and cook 5 m i n utes m ore . Serve hot o r cold (c h i l l about 1 hour) .

Serves: 8 Preparat ion : 1 0 m i n utes Cook i n g : 20-25 m i n utes (p lus t i m e to c h i l l i f served

co ld)

"This recipe reverses the cinnamon·nutmeg ratio, which makes it a spicy sauce. Serve as a side dish."

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BREAD PUDDING

% stick butter or margarine 1 0 s l ices white bread 1 % qts. coffee cream, divided 1 0 eggs 2 C. sugar

pinch salt 1 t. vani l la

nutmeg and c innamon to taste raisins (optional)

Oviedo Inn Oviedo

Melt butter i n 9 x 1 3 x 2-i n c h pan and set as ide . Break up bread and p lace in large bow l . Po u r 1 qt. of cream over bread and set as ide . Break eggs i nto m i x i n g bow l a n d add sugar. Beat u n t i l e g g s are foamy and sugar is m i xed i n . Add salt and van i l la . Cont i nue to beat w h i l e add i n g remai n i ng % qt . of cream . Pou r i n to bowl with bread-and-cream mi xture . St i r l i ght ly wi th large spoon . Pour i n to pan w i th mel ted butter. Spri nk le nutmeg and c i n namon on top. Add rai s i ns if des i red. P lace in larger pan w i th %-i n c h deep water. Bake i n 350 of. oven 1 hou r, or u n t i l k n i fe i nserted i n center comes out c lean . Serve warm or co ld , w i th l emon sauce (see page 1 84) and w h i pped c ream or heavy c ream .

Serves: 1 2 Preparat ion : 1 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : 1 hour

"This is more o f a custard than a pudding. I t is absolutely delicious warm or cold, sauced or not. "

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Oviedo Inn Oviedo

LEMON SAUCE

2 T. cornstarch 1 C. sugar % t. salt 2 C. water 4 T. lemon juice 2 egg yolks, beaten 2 T. butter, melted

M i x corn starc h , su gar, and salt. Add water and st i r u n t i l smoot h . Cook over m ed i u m heat u nt i l m i xture i s c l ear and t h i c kened , about 8- 1 0 m i n utes. Add lemon j u ice and cook 1 m i n ute. Remove f ro m heat . Pour i n beaten egg yo lks and st i r i n melted butter. M ix thorou g h ly. Serve s l i g ht l y warm .

Y ie lds : abo u t 3 c u ps Preparat i o n : 2 m i n u tes Cooki n g : 1 0 m i n utes

"Serve over Bread Pudding (page 183). Reduce the amount of sugar if you prefer a sauce that is more tart. "

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o 0 0 o 0 0

0 0 o �

The Catfish Place

St. Cloud If you 've ever gotten t i red of p ick ing bones out of what

was supposed to be f i l l eted f ish , or i f you haven't q u ite adapted to eat i n g the bones as wel l as the meat on f i nger­l i ng catfi sh , t ry Steve and J udy Johnson's Catf ish P lace.

The fish are brought i n , s k i n ned , c leaned , washed , f i l l ets removed from the bac kbone and cut in t h i n stri ps. They're l i ght ly ro l led i n corn meal and cooked eve n l y th roughout . They hard l y even taste "f ishy," and you ' l l a l most n ever f ind a bone. Of course, you can order f i ngerl i ngs here, too, and eat the bones if you w ish . But the stri ps are a spec i alty that you 're not l i ke ly to f ind e l sewhere.

To keep a con stant supp ly of outstand i ng catf ish on hand , Steve buys from about two dozen d i fferent commerc ia l f ishermen , with de l iveries a l l week long . H e keeps the fresh f ish i n a large wal k- i n freezer, w i th ice p l aced at the bottom of big whi te p last i c tubs with holes for d rai n i n g . The f i sh are p laced on top of the i ce . The a i r f rom the wal k-i n keeps the f ish co ld on top, and i t stays fresh longer.

Steve i ns i sts that the bread i n g be done at the last m i n ute j ust before cooki ng to i nsure maxi m u m l i g ht ness and

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freshness. He's the on ly one who knows the exact 1 0 i ng re­d ients in his b read i ng mix, wh ich he spri n k l es over dam p f ish stri ps p l aced i n a stai n l ess steel pan . Then he adds j ust enough water to wet the pan but not so much as to wash off the mea l . N ext, he ro l l s the f ish wel l in more mea l , p ick i n g u p each p iece a n d lett i ng the meal fal l off except for a f i n e coat i n g . F ina l ly , h e drops t h e stri ps i nto a deep fat fryer for about three m i n utes, at 350 ° F. At home, thoug h , i f you add too many p i eces of co ld f ish to the o i l , the fry i n g o i l tempera­t u re may be lowered too m uch . It's better to d rop on ly a few p ieces i n at a t i me.

The Catf ish P lace has a f ish market adj acen t to the restau­rant and se l l s both f ish and some 5,000 pounds of cole s law a week to cou nt less other restaurants around the state. Another specialty served here is turt le , with the bone and the fat removed for a m i lder taste than usual .

Don't get carried away and try to catch the f ish i n the 400-gal lon sal t-water aq uari u m d iv id i ng the restau rant sec­tion from the oyster bar. But do dig i n to a p l ate of catf i s h . T h i s i s t h e k ind o f p lace where you "chat a n d chew."

Directions: The Catfish Place is at the corner of U.S. 192 (13th Street) and Alabama A venue. U. S. 192 is St. Cloud's "main drag, " about 19 miles east of the 1-4 exit for Walt Disney World.

While you're here: The Repti le World Serpentarium just east of St. Cloud and the Gatorland Zoo in Kissimmee should pro­vide you with your fill of viewing snakes, turtles, alligators, and crocodiles. If you 're more domes tically inclined and are interested in home economics, tour the Tupperware Interna· t ional Headquarters and museum of food containers, two miles north of Kissimmee.

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CATFISH

The Catfish Place St. Cloud

4 catfish f i l lets, cut in 2-3-inch strips salt and pepper to taste Accent (same amount as salt) dash papri ka

1 cup corn meal, stone ground oi l for frying

light ly season corn meal w i th salt , pep per and Accent . Add a l i t t le papr i ka for color i n g . D ip catf ish str ips i n meal m ixtu re and deep fry u nt i l go lden brown . F ish gets cooked even ly th roughout .

Serves: 2-4 Preparat ion : 1 0 m i n utes Cook i n g : 5 to 1 0 m i n utes

"Chef Steve Johnson insists on using only fresh, stone-ground corn meal made by old-time Georgia Crackers who live in the woods near Atlanta_ Their meal looks like real fine face powder, he says, and is also good for making grits_ "

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The Catfish Place St. Cloud

HUSHPUPPIES

% Ibs. sugar % C. baking powder % t . salt % t. pepper % t . garlic salt 1 % Ibs . onion, diced 2 eggs 10 oz. mi lk 1 % Ibs. f lour 1 % Ibs. corn meal

M ix sugar, bak ing powder, salt , pepper, and garl i c salt . B lend on ions , eggs, and m i l k i n b lender unt i l on ions have a textu re l i ke a m i l kshake, not too t h i n , and add t o d ry m ixture u n t i l moist . Let s i t u n t i l m ixture bubb les, about 3 t o 5 m i n utes. M eanwh i le , m ix f lour and corn meal in a separate bowl and gradua l ly add to l i q u id m ixture. The resu l t i ng batter shou ld be t h ick, l i ke a cook ie dough . I f i t is too watery , add more corn meal and f lour; i f i t i s too t h ick, add more m i l k. Deep fat f ry by t h e half ­teaspoonfu l in very hot o i l , 375 ° F . By f ry i ng o n ly a few at a t ime , hush pupp ies w i l l cook q u ick ly and have a l i g ht , a i ry textu re.

Y ie lds : about 250 (g reat for a large party) Preparat ion : 1 5 m i n utes Cook i n g : depends u pon q uant i ty

"The batter keeps well in the refrigerator, as long as six weeks. The original reCipe made 2,000 hushpuppies -we cut the recipe down a bit. . . . "

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2% Ibs. cabbage 1 carrot, grated

COLE SLAW

The Catfish Place St. Cloud

1 C. sweet salad dressing (Piknik, if avai lable. Do not use mayonnaise.)

% C . sugar pinch salt pinch garl ic salt pinch black pepper

113 t . red wine vinegar dash onion, chopped fine

Chop off bottom of cabbag e, cut in q uarters , and remove core . G rate . M ix by hand in large bow l w i th other i n g red ients . Ch i l l and serve.

Serves: 8- 1 0 Preparat ion : 1 0 m i n utes

"The very l ight use of seasonings and just a l it t le bit of onion keeps this slaw from having an overpowering taste. It's popular with e veryone. "

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Suncrest Restaurant

Melbourne The way E l i zabeth Ford (Betty, to a l l of her g uests) ru ns

her Suncrest Restaurant is just the way you l i ke to see a smal l bus i ness managed. The restau rant is l i ke a 1 950s-era coffee shop, and the servi ngs are g igant ic . If yo u have a smal ler appetite, order a half port ion i n stead .

Lu nch specia ls are p lanned for q u ick serv ice . Not every­th ing appears on the pri nted menu, so you ' l l frequ ent ly hear c ustomers ask i ng Betty, "What's for d i n ner, dear?" j ust l i ke at home. And with fou r of her six c h i l d ren work ing there with her, i t may as wel l be home.

Betty entered the restau rant busi ness after be i ng a cook in New York C i ty and cateri n g V iennese Tab l es. These were e laborate affai rs, f lam ing dessert smorgasbords ro l led out on t i ered tables at fancy wed d i ngs and s i m i lar events . After vacat ion i n g i n F lor ida and lov ing it, she eventua l l y decid ed to move here. I t was a natura l for her, when she bought the Suncrest, to conti nue the orig i nal owner's trad it ion of de l i­c ious p ies and home cook ing .

We'd be rem i ss i f we d id n 't pass on to you some of Betty 's most successfu l cook ing h i nts. For one t h i ng , except for

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home fries and french fries, s he uses very l i tt le grease for cooki n g , preferr ing to saute and steam foods i n stead. She' l l use water and o n l y a l i tt le o i l for sal mon patt ies, for exam­p le , spray ing her pans w i th Pam. Her g ravy is m ade from a grease-free broth rather than a commercial mix . She puts left­overs to good use: after cooki n g 25 to 30 turkeys a week, she uses every part, i n soup, salad , and croquettes. Homemade soups and c lam or shri m p b isque are so th ick "you can eat them with a fork." On ly fresh fruits and vegetables ever appear on her salad p lates.

Smal l wonder, then , that some of her customers eat l i teral ly all of the i r meals here !

About those large port ions, now. Go i n wi th a bear-s ize ap­petite for a mammoth b lu ebe rry muffi n that must be four t i mes the size of the average muffi n , served w i th fresh honey from a nearby honey bee farm. Or when you order a "Su per Suncrester," be prepared for a two-hand, f ive-napki n hamburger loaded with melted cheese, a p i l e of shaved ham, and a barbec ue-l ike sauce. I t's add i ct ive !

Good news for d iabetics, too. Betty makes a d ieteti c apple p ie using water-packed apple s l i ces and no sacchari n or sugar.

Her greatest reward? Com p l iments from her g u ests. You ' l l add yours, too.

Directions: The Suncrest is at 914 New Haven A venue (U.S. 192). The restaurant is on the north side of the s treet, approximately two miles west of the intersection of 1 92 with U.S. 1.

While you're here: If you 're anywhere near the Space Coast when there 's a launch planned, call for schedule informa­tion. The toll-free n um ber is in the phone book. The Kennedy Space Center tours at Cape Canaveral are dramatic memorials to modern his tory, not to be missed. About a half­hour drive in the opposite direction, south on A 1 A, is the McLarty State Museum at Sebastian Inlet, with displays of the hurricane wreck of two large Spanish treasure fleets in 1 715.

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Suncrest Restaurant Melbourne

BEEF PINWHEELS

1 package J iffy biscuit mix mi lk leftover pot roast or beef, sl iced or d iced

(al low 6-8 oz. per serving) granulated garlic chopped parsley salt and pepper egg yolk, beaten gravy (homemade or commercial)

Fo l l ow the d i rect ions on the m i x to m ake the batte r BUT re p l ace t h e wate r w i th m i l k. Knead for a few m i n utes. D iv ide d o u g h in half and ro l l o u t so that it i s q u ite t h i n . U se a ro l l i n g c utter o r s harp k n i fe a n d cut out st r ips approx i m ately 3 by 5 i nches. P lace meat in a stri p u p t h e m i ddle of each str ip of dough . Spr i n k l e wi th garl i c , pars l ey, s a l t ( i f needed), a n d pep per. Ro l l u p and p l ace seam s ide down i n a pan that h as bee n sprayed wi th Pam o r M azol a N o-st ick. Brush each p i nwheel w i th beaten egg yolk. Bake accord i n g to J i ffy package d i rect ions i f u s i n g a convent io nal oven or 300 ° F. i n a convect ion oven for 1 5 to 20 m i n utes . When done, s l ice each p i nwheel on t h e d iagonal and serve covered with g ravy.

Serves: 4 Pre parat ion : 1 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : 1 0-20 m i n u tes , depend i n g u po n oven used

"A good solution to the 'what·to·do·with·leftovers' problem."

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Suncrest Res taurant Melbourne

RICE-BROCCOLl-CHEESE CASSEROLE

1 box Min ute Rice % No. 1 0 can Cheddar cheese sauce 2 1 3·oz. cans evaporated mi lk % lb. margarine or butter 2 large boxes frozen whole broccol i , defrosted

salt and pepper to taste grated cheese

Make M i n ute R ice . Pou r c heese sauce over r ice and add m i l k and margar ine . Place brocco l i on bottom of baki ng pan and pour r ice m i xt u re over top . Add salt and pepper to taste. Bake u n t i l casserole starts to bubble , about 1 5-20 m i n utes at 300 °F . in a convect ion ove n . Serve w i th a spatu la, t u r n i n g over so that brocco l i is on top. Spri nk le w i th g rated cheese.

Serves : 8- 1 0 Preparat ion : 5- 1 0 m i n utes Cooki n g : 1 5-20 m i n utes i n convect ion oven

about 35 m i n utes i n reg u lar oven

"For variations, try ham, scal/oped potatoes, or corn in addition to or instead of broccoli. "

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Suncrest Restaurant Melbourne

PEANUT BUTTER PIE

1 C. heavy cream 2 C. commercial l iquid topping such as Rich's 2 boxes Jel lo instant Vanil la Pudding 4 heaping T. peanut butter % C. crushed nuts 1 baked pie shell

chocolate fudge topping whipped cream for topping crushed nuts for garn ish

Combi ne heavy cream , l i q u id w h i p ped topp i n g , and pudd i n g . Wh i p u nt i l t h ick, f l u ffy, and comp letely b lended. Add peanu t butter and nuts. Fo ld i n to p i e she l l . Opt ional : swi rl chocolate f u d g e top p i n g through f i l l i n g w i t h a kn i fe by dr ibb l i n g over t o p and b lend i n g i t in l i ke a marb l e cake. Deco rate w i t h w h i p ped cream o r topp i ng (topp i ng w i l l ho ld u p better) and spr ink le w i th c rushed n uts. Chi l l . Keep i n refrigerator u n t i l ready t o serve.

Serves : 6 Preparat ion : 1 0 m i n utes p l u s t ime to c h i l l

"Peanut butter's not just for sandwiches anymore !"

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Ve Tower Lunch

Lantana A l and mark i n Lantana- hometown for The National En­

quirer- is Ye Tower Lu nch , a restau rant noted both for i ts tower and for be ing Pal m Beach Cou nty's o ldest bus i ness under the same ownersh ip .

Actual l y, the tower i sn 't what i t u sed to be . Pau l Dunbar and h i s brother had pu rchased what was once a 55-foot-tal l lookout p l atform u sed for p rospect ive l andowners d u ri n g Florida's boom days. They converted i t i nto a restau rant to cater to the then-smal l town . In j ust a few years, the town grew rap i d ly , w i th real estate deve lopment taki n g off and h i g hway construct ion at the front door. Ye Tower Lunch became part of everyone's soc i al l i fe, the p lace to g o after h i g h school dances or for special events in the com m u n i ty .

But the k i l ler h u rricane of 1 928, the same one that caused Lake Okeechobee to overf low and w i pe out the popu l at ion of several smal l towns, knocked down the 55-foot structure , and the tower that stands today is on ly a f i ve-foot memorial .

Other than the smal ler tower, the restaurant hasn't changed much i n more than half a century. Wel l , there's been some rebu i ld i ng . . . when cars have d riven through the front wal l

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because there's al most no setback from the road, thanks to a p rovis ion i n the deed that was grandfathered i n and wh ich kept the c i ty from re locat i ng the bu i l d i ng. But the f ixtures i n­s ide are ori g i na l , even down to some of the g lass and table­ware. And if the soda fou ntai n itself doesn't bri ng back memories, t ry s ipp ing one of Pau l 's old-fash ioned chocolate malts. The sandwiches and cheeseburgers are al l the same as what he i ntroduced to the area decades ago.

You ' l l get more than you r f i l l of l ocal h i story here. Pau l was mayor of Lantana for n i ne years, served i n other e lected posts, and became a noted photographer whose photos chron ic le the town's early g rowth . As a resu l t of h i s efforts , a 3,OOO-foot stri p along the beach w i l l a lways be p u b l i c l y owned, a k ind o f haven i n contrast w i t h m i les o f develop­ment e l sewhere.

Ye Tower Lu nch has become an i nst i tut ion in t h i s smal l F lor ida town on the Gold Coast. To f i nd home-sty le cooki n g a t good prices makes i t a n u n u sual d i scovery we l l worth s i n g l i n g out .

Directions: Ye Tower Lunch is at 916 South Dixie High way (U. S. 1). From 1-95, take the Hypoluxo Road exit eas t to U. S. 1. Turn north on U. S. 1 for five blocks to address. Or, take the Lantana Road exit east to U. S. 1 and turn south for nine blocks. Ye To wer Lunch is on the east side of the street.

While you're here: One town north of Lantana is Lake Worth, whose lakeshore lots were given away in the 1900s to those who purchased tracts of truck and fruit land else where in town. Today, fresh-water fishing is popular at Lake Osborne, and salt-water fishing is the attraction from one of Florida 's longest municipally-owned A tlan tic Ocean piers. In Palm Beach see Worth Avenue, with its exclusive shops, and the Henry Morrison Flagler Museum, formerly the home of the big-time developer for whom it is named. The house cost $4-million to complete in 1 902. Flagler's restored priva te railroad car is also on the grounds.

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Ye Tower Lunch Lantana

PAUL DUNBAR'S CREAM PIES BASIC RECIPE

2 3·1/8·0l. boxes Jel lo Pudding M ix (not instant) 2 T. cornstarch 1 qt. m i lk 1 1 0- inch baked pie shell

whipped cream

Prepare 1 0- i n c h p i e she l l w i th your favorite rec i pe. I n 2-q uart saucepan add p u d d i n g m ix , cornstarc h , and m i l k . Cook over med i u m h eat, st i rri n g constant ly for about 7 m i n utes or u nt i l boi l i n g . Do not overcook. Cool to room tem peratu re , then refri gerate u n t i l ready t o use . After cool i n g , st i r p u d d i n g a n d pour i nto p ie she l l . Top w i th w h i pped cream.

FO R C H OCOLATE P IE: Fol l ow same basic recipe using van i l l a pudding m i x , but add two 1 -ounce sq uares of Baker's Sem i·sweet Chocolate before cooking pudding. As i t cooks, the chocolate melts and makes a richer c h ocolate pudding.

FO R BANANA P I E: Follow same basic recipe using vani l la pudding mix. Cook and cool . Line bottom of pie she l l with sliced bananas before pouring pudding into it.

FO R COCO N UT P I E: Fol l ow same basic recipe using vani l la pudding m i x . Cook and cool. Add 1 cup of Baker's Shredded Coconut to pudding, stir wel l , then pour into pie she l l . Top with w h i p ped cream and sprinkle with addit ional coconut.

FOR B UTTERSCOTC H P I E: Fol l ow same basic recipe using butterscotch p udding m ix.

Yie lds : 1 p ie each rec i pe Preparat ion : about 1 0 m i n utes p l us t i m e to c h i l l

"This is a quick dessert if you ha ve pre·baked pie shells on hand. "

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LA BSI1VIHA DB TE�AS

La Esquina De Tejas

Miami Unt i l recent ly , La Esq u i na de Tejas was one among many

Cu ban restau rants in M iam i 's Litt le H avana d i strict, s i m pl y going about bus i ness i n t h e usual way. S i n c e 1 967, the pop u lar corner restaurant, decked with ham hocks han g i ng i n the wi ndows, has been known for i ts sandw iches and good , standard Cuban fare. Specia ls are varied throug hout the week, d i shes l i ke Fricase de Polio (roasted o r stewed ch icken), Picadillo (a g round beef and tomato sauce d i s h , Sop a de Pescado (f ish sou p) and s i m i lar i tems.

On Cuban Independence Day i n May, 1 983, the reg u lar menu at La Esq u i na de Tejas became famous. President Reagan came to town and stopped in for l unch . He was warmly g reeted by 204 d i ners , al l of whom were there by spec ial i n­v i tat ion of the owners .

One g uest said , " I ' m g lad the President knows a good restau rant when he sees one."

Actual ly , the apparent spontaneity of the occasion was carefu l l y p lanned. When co-owners J uan Vento and Wi l fredo Cham izo received word of the i mpen d i n g v is i t , they q u iet ly began to i nvite some of their "reg u lars , " each of whom had

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to be ap proved by sec u rity. The Pres ident 's personal stew­ard passed i n s pect ion on the k i tchen and the menu , wh ich was selected because there's a wel l -known restau rant by the same name i n Cuba and because it offers typical Cuban food . Ve nto made no changes in the menu for the occas ion , and what the pres ident wou ld eat was not d eterm i n ed i n ad­vance. But earl ier in the day, the c hef and his staff had p repared 50 pound of moros (black beans and rice), 1 20 p latanos (p l an tai n s , s i m i l ar to banan as), 40 pol/os (ch ickens), and 600 servi ngs of flan (c ustard) for the rest of the week.

And Pres ident Reagan then enjoyed the No . 1 spec ia l of the day, Polio A sado, Moros y Platanos, accompanied by a m i n iature c u p of strong-f lavored Cu ban coffee.

Vento has s i nce p laced in safe-keep i ng the tab le and cha i r where the Presi dent sat, and the tab le serv i ce that he used . Otherwise, everyth ing is stay ing the same-the menu , the cheerfu l western-sty le decor wi th its wroug ht- i ron sect ions a long the cou nter, red br ick t i le f loor, bright red accents and wh ite tab l ec loths, and wood panel i n g i n one of the d i n i n g rooms.

And you ' l l f i n d , too, that the same hospita l i ty and good w ishes extended to the Pres i dent are also offered to every­d ay guests. The name may say "Texas Corner" i n t rans la­t ion , but i t 's "Famous Florida ! " now.

Directions: La Esquina de Tejas is at 101 S W 12th A venue. From U. S. 1 (Biscayne Boulevard) do wntown, turn west on 1st Street NE, going under the North-South Expressway, after which 1st Street m erges with Flagler. Turn left on 12th A venue to address; La Esquina de Tejas is on the east side of the street.

While you're here: Miami and Miami Beach are full of ex­citing sights and things to do. The Miami H erald ne wspaper building gives tours and is considered one of the most beautiful newspaper plants in the country. The Miami Sea­quarium and Planet Ocean, both reached from Rickenbacker Causeway, are en tertaining, educational centers for marine life and oceanography. By all means save time for shopping and soaking up the sunshine!

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La Esquina De Tejas Miami

POLLO ASADO (BAKED CHICKEN)

3 chickens cut into quarters 2 t. salt 2 garlic cloves 5 bitter oranges, squeezed (or equal parts of

orange and l ime juice)

Was h c h i c ken and pat d ry. Spri n k l e w i th 1 teas poon salt and pat in gent ly . P lace c h i c ken in one layer in a large pan and bake i n a 400 of . oven for 1 h o u r. Remove and baste w i th a m i xture of j u i ce , g arl i c and sal t . Ret u rn to the ove n for another 30 m i n utes.

Serves: 4-6 Pre parat i o n : 1 5 m i n utes Coo k i n g : 90 m i n utes

"When making the basting mixture, combine the ingredients in a jar and shake well. If you are on a low sodium diet, the salt can be omitted. "

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La Esquina De Tejas Miami

MOROS (MIXED BLACK BEANS)

1 2 oz. dry black beans 2 l iters plus 6 oz. water 3 oz. ol ive oi l 1 medium green pepper, minced 1 medium onion, minced 5 oz. (about 1 0 strips) bacon, diced 2 T. salt 3 T. garl ic powder 1 T. Accent 1 T. cumin powder 6 laurel or bay leaves 1 t. oregano 1 lb. 4 oz. uncooked rice

Wash beans we l l . P lace i n a pressu re cooker w i th water and cook for 25-30 m i nutes un t i l the beans are soft . The beans and water can also be cooked in a covered pot for 1 %-2 hours . Rem ove from heat . Heat o l ive oi l i n a med i u m sk i l l et and saute g reen pepper, o n ion and bacon u nt i l veg etab les are go lden . St i r i nto beans along w i t h the remai nder of i n g red ients except r ice. Bri ng to a boi l and add r ice. St i r and cook for 5 m i n utes. Cover sk i l l et (or a cassero le d ish ) and bake in a 350 of. oven for 30 m i n utes. St ir we l l and cook for an add i t ional 1 0 m i n utes.

Serves: 6 Preparat ion : 20 m i n utes Cooki ng : about 40 m i n utes p l u s t ime to cook the

beans

HThis dish may remind you of Hoppingjohn (see recipe page 66). Both are excellent. "

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La Esquina De Tejas Miami

PLATANOS MADUROS (FRIED SWEET BANANAS)

4 very ripe * bananas, peeled and cut i nto 1 ·i nch sl ices

1 cup vegetable or ol ive oi l

H eat the oi l in a s k i l let u n t i l i t i s abou t 350 of . Fry bananas u n t i l both s ides are go lden .

Serves: 4 Preparat i o n : 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : u nt i l go lden

"lf you are going to use the bananas as a dessert, fry in vegetable oil and sprinkle with a little powdered sugar. Use olive oil if the bananas are going to be a side dish. Plantains are similar to bananas and are commonly served in Spanish and Cuban restaurants."

"The secret l ies in the bananas' ripeness.

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La Esquina De Tejas Miami

FLAN (CARAMEL CUSTARD)

1 C. sugar 1 C. water plus 2 oz. 1 oz. Anisette 1 oz. cinnamon st icks (don 't use powdered

cinnamon) 6 large egg yolks 6 oz. condensed mi lk 6 oz. evaporated mi lk 6 oz. whole mi lk % t . salt 6 oz. grated coconut

Cook s u gar and 2 oz . of water ove r h i g h heat, st i rri n g constant ly. Pour res u l t i n g carame l i nto 6 m o l d s or c ustard c u ps and coo l . (As you pour, s w i rl caram el around so that i t coats s ides and bottom of m o l ds . ) Boi l together for 10 m i n utes: the 1 c u p water, A n i sette and c i n namon st icks . Rem ove c i n namon st icks . Cool s l i g ht ly . St i r in a l l eggs , m i l ks , sa l t , and coconut . M ix u n t i l s mooth and c reamy. Pou r i nto molds that have been coated with caramel . P l ace molds in a bak i n g pan and f i l l with hot water t o come half way u p s ides of molds. Bake in a 300 OF . ove n for 45 m i n utes o r u n t i l a tooth p ick i n serted i nto m i dd le of f lan comes out c l ean.

Serves : 6 Preparat ion : 1 5 m i n u tes Cook i n g : 45 m i n utes

"Flan can be served chilled, at room temperature, or slightly warm. This one's great. "

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Malaga

Miami Between West F lag ler Street and SW E ighth Street (U .S.

41) in M iam i , j u st north of Coral Gables, p u l ses another "country , " L i tt l e H avana, la capital del exilio cubano. All u p a n d down t h e m a i n streets a n d t h e s i d e al leys, t h e area has become l i ke Cuba t ransp l anted, espec ia l l y d u ri ng the past 20 years or so. The c u l t u ral l i fe of the cou ntry has been i m ­ported a n d adapted t o m i ng le w i th Ameri can customs. Shops of a l l k i nds , profess ional off i ces, baker ies and pro­d uce stands resound wi th a m i xtu re of Cu ban , Span ish and Mexican d i al ects. The eateries range from l arge , co lorfu l bodega -style structures (a bodega can be e i ther a g rocery store or a w i ne cel lar), to t i ny sandwich shops where you al most never hear a word of Eng l i sh .

One unprepossess ing establ ishment whose exterior hard ly even h i nts at the feast wit h i n i s Malaga, a f requent top choice among many restaurant rev iewers . Its i nformal yet e legant ambiente combi ned wi th i ts generous serv ings of trad i t i onal Lat i n fare at surpri s i ng ly low pri ces have an­chored its p lace as a "Cal le Ocho" (E ighth Street ne igh ­borhood) restau rant .

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After com ing to the Un i ted States, owners J ose and Teresa Fernandez operated an award-w inn ing restaurant for some t i me in Ch icago . They relocated to M iam i , spec i f i ca l ly to Lit­t le Havana, prec isely because it was so m uch l i ke Cuba. I n 1 975 they purchased the Malaga. Teresa's mother also moved here with them and he lps them ru n the restaurant.

Malaga, named for a Span i sh c i ty that was Picasso's b i rth ­p lace, exudes warmth wi th bright red tablec loths, dark wood rafters, and Span ish p lates and works of art on the wal ls . The restaurant entrance is actual ly an open area between these rooms and leads d i rectly i nto a del i g htfu l cou rtyard with brick t i les and fru i t t rees. Beyond the cou rtyard is another b u i l d i n g w i t h several pr ivate d i n i ng rooms, each outfi tted w i t h i t s own matched set of tableware. I t 's hard to be l i eve the sett i ng is so g rac ious and refi ned as the prices are so reasonable .

The service is appropriately warm , with hosp i tal ity the key whether you s peak Eng l i sh or Span ish . Cuban , Span ish , and Mex ican d i shes are popu lar, as is the seafood. And the i r specialt ies such as roast ch i cken and a cho ice p re parat ion of red snapper can be appreciated in any lang uage.

Wel come -bienvenido !

Directions: Malaga is at 740 S W Eigh th Street (U. S. 41 , Tamiami Trail). Eighth Stree t is one-way heading east, so from 1-95, when you take the exit ramp for U. S. 41 , you will drive west on Seventh Street, turn left on Eigh th A venue, and left again onto Eighth Street to address.

While you're here: For information on Hispanic festivals held throughout the year, call the Latin Chamber of Commerce or the Little Havana Tourist A uthority (see your phone book or call Directory Assistance). Not far from Little Havana is V iz­caya, virtually a palace that was once the estate of early 20th­century industrialist James Deering, developer of modern agricultural machinery. Home of the Dade County Art Museum, Vizcaya is an Italian-style palazzo, with formal gardens, that became a model for s tructures later built in Miami and Coral Gables.

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Malaga Miami

PICADILLO (LATIN VERSION OF SLOP� JOES)

1 onion, chopped 1 large chi l i pepper, chopped (remove seeds f irst) 2 cloves garl ic, crushed

oi l for sauteing 1 lb. ground beef 1 t . salt 1 t . chopped pimiento % C. capers, drained, rinsed, and crushed % C. tomato sauce % C. dry white wine

raisins (optional)

Saute o n i o n , c h i l i pepper, and garl i c u n t i l o n ion starts to brow n . Add g round beef . When beef beg i n s t o brown, add the rest of the i n g red i e nts. St i r we l l . Cover and s i m mer 2 0 m i n utes. Drai n excess j u ice before serv i n g .

Serves: 6 Preparat i o n : 5- 1 0 m i n utes Cook ing : 25 m i n utes

"Be sure to wear rubber gloves when removing the seeds of any hot pepper. If you forget and rub your eyes within the next few hours, you will remember the next time! Serve with rice and/or beans or on buns. "

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Malaga Miami

CARNE ASADA MECHADA (POT ROAST OR ROAST BEEF, CUBAN STYLE)

(Al low t i me to m ari nate)

3 Ibs. beef (pot roast or roast beef) 3 oz. bacon or ham, minced 2 carrots, m inced

garlic to taste, crushed % small jar pimiento 1 t. oregano 1 t. meat tenderizer 2 bay leaves 2 T. lemon juice 2 large onions, s l iced % C. oil 1 C. dry red wine

Make deep s l ashes across the fat of the beef in a d i amond pattern (as i f scor ing a ham). M i x f i n e l y m i nced h a m or baco n and carrot s tog ether a n d stuff i nto cuts . Season m eat with garl ic , p i m iento, o regano, m eat tenderizer, bay leaf and lemon j u ice. Cover with o n ion r ings and refr igerate for at l east 6 hours . Dra in meat (reserve mari n ade), pat d ry , and brow n i n h ot o i l . Add w i n e and a l l of the mari nade i n g red ients p lus salt t o taste. Cover t i g ht l y a n d c o o k over a low heat u n t i l d o n e . A d d add i t ional w i ne and water as necessary to preven t m eat f rom st ick ing to pan. Do not ove rcook. Defat g ravy and taste for season i n g s . Serve s l iced wi th some of the mari nade i n g redients on top .

Serves : 4-6 Preparat i o n : 1 0 m i n utes p l u s t i m e for m ari n at i ng Cooki n g : 2-3 hou rs

"This goes well with black beans and/or rice, or boiled potatoes."

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palla FRITO (FRIED CHICKEN)

1 2·lb. frying chicken 1 clove garlic, crushed 1 t. oregano 1 sour orange or 2 lemons, sl iced 1 large onion, s l iced into rings % C. shortening or oi l for frying

salt to taste % jar pimiento or % red pepper, chopped

Malaga Miami

Cut ch i cken i n q uarters. Wash , pat d ry, and mari nate in crushed g arli c , oregano, and lemon or orange s l ices. Cover w i th on ion ri ngs and re fr i gerate . Saute

ch icken p ieces on both s ides i n hot o i l . When go lden brown , spri n k le l i g ht ly w i th sa l t and p i m iento. Add marinade i n g red ients . Cook over low heat , covered t i g ht ly , for 25 m i n utes.

Serves: 4 Preparat ion : 1 5-20 m i n utes p l u s t ime to mari nate Cook ing : 25 m i n utes

"This is not fried chicken as such. It's more of a fla vorful chicken stew. Marinate as long as possible."

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Malaga Miami

SHRIMP IN GARLIC SAUCE, MALAGA-SlYlE

2 Ibs. jumbo shrimp 2 large onions 3 cloves fresh garlic or to taste 1 smal l bunch parsley, chopped % C. o l ive o i l 1 t . salt 1 t . pepper 1 C. dry wine Chablis 1 T. f inely grated cheese, such as Parmesan 3 T. butter 1 can green peas 1 can pimiento strips

rice

R i nse shri m p we l l , peel she l ls , and deve i n . Be carefu l n ot to cut off tai l . M ash g arl ic and chop o n i o n s thorough ly. M ix i n b l ender: pars l ey, o i l , salt and pepper, w i ne , cheese, butter, garl ic , and o n ions . Po u r m i xt u re over s h ri m p . Cook i n pot ove r m ed i u m heat for 25 m i n utes . Garn ish wi th peas and p i m i e ntos. Serve over ri ce.

Serves: 4-5 Preparat ion : 15 m i n utes Cooki n g : 25 m i n utes

"This popular recipe has been featured on the popular Burdine 's Chef's Tour. A companion recipe for chicken and pork is a garlic sauce spiced with oreqano. Try this one on other kinds of fish as well. "

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MOJO CRIOLLO

Malaga Miami

(CREOLE SAUCE FOR CHICKEN OR PORK)

4 cloves garlic 1 t . salt % C. oil

ju ice from 1 sour orange (or lemon i f not available)

Crush garl i c c loves w i th sal t . Pou r oi l i n f ry i n g pan and heat q u i c k ly . Add garl i c and j u ice from orange (previous ly heated). St i r t horoug h ly . When warmed throug h , serve over meat with vegetab les such as yuca, name, or malanga .

Yie lds : about 1 c u p Preparat ion : 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : 5 m i n utes

"This is not the Southern tomato-based sauce that you may already be familiar with. It's quite piquante, and a tablespoon or two added to rice is excellent. "

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Malaga Miami

,

SANGRIA

1 bottle Rioja (a Span ish red w ine) 8 oz. lemon soda 4 T. sugar 2 whole l imes, squeezed 8 oz. mixed fruit cocktai l , drained and sl ig htly

crushed 1 orange, sl iced

Pour w i ne and lemon soda i nto p i tcher. Add s u gar, j u ice from l i mes, fru i t cockta i l , and orange s l i ces. Add ice and st ir wel l . Serve in w ine goblets.

Serves : 2-4 Preparat ion : 5 m i n utes

"A delicious, refreshing Spanish beverage, ideal for any occasion. Goes well with poultry, seafood, and red meat. "

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The Spiral

Coral Gables I n f lat ion may have a sp i ra l i n g c u rve, but the pr ices at The

Sp i ral restau rant have always remai ned modest. The re­fres h i n g , nat u ral foods menu has appealed to everyone from h ipp ies in the 1 960s to Rol l s Royce owners and, most recent ly , Christo, the p u b l i c i ty-attract i n g art i st who deco­rated M iami ' s B i scayne Bay is lands i n p i n k p last i c .

Th is i sn 't an ord i nary "health food " restau rant for F l orida. I ndeed, owners Hank and Jerry Go ldsche in wou l d rather not even cal l i t that. The decor is a spri ngy, l ive ly g reen , w i th a br ight ly colored vegetable pattern for wal l paper i nterspersed with wood pane l i ng and wh i te wrought i ron d ivi ders. The surpr ise as you enter is the s l ot mac h i n e that shows movies for kids of any age.

The restaurant f i rst opened i n 1 970. When Hank and Jerry became the owners , they kept many of the same items on the menu and added some new ones. Bes ides the array of seafood tem p u ra d i shes, pasta and salads , there's al ways a "cook's p leasu re ," usual ly a hot vegetab l e spec ia l . And i f you l i ke vegetabl e sou p , you ' l l love i t at The S p i ral -great b ig c h u n ks of f resh everyt h i ng , f i l led u p to the top of a bowl of c lear but tasty broth . It rea l l y is a meal in i tse l f .

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"Consc ient ious c u is i ne" i s what Hank and Jerry cal l i t , serv ing healthy port ions of "bas ic eats" w i thout preten­t iousness. Though meat and ch ic ken don't appear on the men u , seafood does. Fish Francaise i s a house speci al ty prepared as one wou l d prepare veal . The f ri ed buckwheat nood les with vegetabl es were rated the best health food d i sh in the area by Sou th Florida Magazine (formerly Miami Magazine).

The house d ress ing is made without any da i ry p roducts . I t 's a b lend of m iso (a soy and r ice paste), o i l , v inegar, tamari , and a l i t t le on ion and honey, good enou g h to be used to f l avor j ust about anyt h ing on your p late. Maple syru p or honey are used as sweeteners i nstead of sugar.

What we enjoyed most of al l were the homemade des­serts, baked fresh each morn i n g . Banana Carob P ie , Strawberry P ie , M ang o-Banana P ie . . . you may r ightfu l ly conc l ude that o ne bite is worth a thousand rev iews.

So put on you r j eans or come over i n you r shorts. The Sp i ral w i l l be ready to treat your tastebuds.

Directions: The Spiral is at 1630 Ponce de Leon Boulevard. From U.S. 1, turn north on Ponce de Leon Boulevard, going across Miracle Mile until you get to the address. The Spiral is on the west side of the street.

While you're here: The lavish Coral Gables lifestyle became famous during the 1920s, and you can fantasize about the exquisite parties of those times jus t by driving along the residential streets. Spanish, Mediterranean, and modern architectural styles dominate the esta tes. The Players State Theater a t the nearby Coconut Grove Playhouse presents s tar casts in hit shows. The Lowe Art Museum Gallery, south of the Coral Gables business district on the University of Miami campus, is one of the prominent art centers of the state, with Renaissance, Baroque, American, and African collections.

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MEATLESS CHILI

1 large onion, chopped 3 green peppers, chopped 1 T. cumin 1 t. salt or to taste 1 t. pepper 1 t. garlic powder 1 T. chi l i powder or more to taste 1 t . whole thyme 3 tomatoes, chopped 2 cans kidney beans 5 oz. soy burger* 1 smal l can tomato paste

cooked rice Cheddar cheese, grated

The Spiral Coral Gables

Saute o n i o n s and pep pers u n t i l tender. Add s p i ces , st i r, and add tomatoes. Cook over m ed i u m low heat. Add heated bean s , soy b u rg er, and tom ato paste. Turn off h eat . Serve over a large spoo n f u l of r ice with g rated Cheddar c h eese spr inkled o n top .

Serves: 4-6 Preparat i o n : 15 m i n utes Cooki n g : 30-45 m i n utes (th e longer t i m e is

necesary i f you use d ry k id ney beans)

"A delicious variation on an old·time favorite. "

• Available in health food stores

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The Spiral Coral Gables

3 eggplants

RED SAUCE

1 onion, chopped ol ive oil

MOUSSAKA

2 tomatoes, cut i n wedges 1 T. parsley 1 t . oregano 1 t . garl ic 1 T. cinnamon 1 T. Tamari *

salt and pepper to taste 1 smal l can tomato paste 6 oz. soy burger*

WH ITE SAU C E

% lb. butter 1 C. white f lour 1 pt. mi lk 1 T . n utmeg

salt and pepper to taste 2 eggs, beaten % lb. ricotta cheese

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TO ASS E M B LE:

The Spiral Coral Gables

Peel egg p l ant , cut i nto s l ices , and d ro p i nto boi l i n g water, cook for about 1 0 m i n utes. For Red Sauce: Saute o n i o n s in o l ive oi l , add tomatoes , s p ices and s i m me r, about 10 m i n utes. Add tomato paste and soy burge r. Turn off heat and lad l e over e g g p lant . For Wh ite Sau ce : M i x butter, f l o u r, m i l k , and seaso n i n gs . St ir over m ed i u m heat. When m i xture th ickens, re move from heat . Add eggs and c h eese. Lad le ove r Red Sauce and cook e n t i re d i s h for 1 hour, uncovered , at 350 of .

Serves: 6-8 Pre parat i o n : eg g p l ant - 1 5 m i n utes;

Red Sauce - 1 5 m i n utes; W h i te Sauce - 1 0 m i n u tes

Cooki n g : 1 hour

"Another popular natural main course. "

• Avai lable in health food stores or Oriental food stores

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The Spiral Coral Gables

BEV'S CABBAGE

cooking o i l 1 lb. fettucine noodles, boiled unti l just tender 1 onion, chopped 5 tomatoes, cut in wedges 1 T. parsley 1 T. garlic powder 1 t . salt 1 t. pepper 1 lb. cottage cheese % large head of cabbage, sl iced into shreds

butter 1 t . caraway seed 1 t . celery seed 1 t . whole thyme 1 lb. cheese, Swiss and cheddar mixed

G rease bak i n g pan or t ray wi th cooking o i l and f i l l w ith bo i led fett u c i n e n'ood les . I n separate pan saute o n i ons , tomatoes, parsley, garl i c , salt and pep per. St i r cottag e c h eese i nto m i xt u re. Spoon ove r n ood les and mix thoro u g h ly. Saute s h redded cabbage i n b utter wi th re mai n i n g sp ices , tak i n g care t hat cabbage doesn 't s t ick to pan. Toss often over m ed i u m heat. Spread over n ood les . Top wi th c heese and bake 45 m i n utes, covered at 350 of.

Serves : 6-8 Preparat i o n : 1 5-20 m i n utes Cooki n g : 45 m i n utes

"Do not overcook noodles or cabbage. "

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MANGO-BANANA PIE

1 baked pie shell

The Spiral Coral Gables

2 or 3 large mangoes, depending upon size cinnamon and honey to taste cornstarch

3 T. apple juice 5 bananas, s l iced

whipped cream

Prepare the pie she l l . M ake s u re you r f ru i t is very r ipe. The m angoes shou ld be sweet and o range. (Th e Sp i ral current ly uses H ai t i an mangoes.) S l i ce mangoes and cook wi th t h e i r own j u ice i n a pot over med i u m heat. Add a touch of c i n namon and honey to taste. Add e n o u g h cornstarc h to t h i c ke n . Add app l e j u ice and b l e n d we l l . (Other c o m pat i b l e f r u i t j u ice can be s u bst i t uted for the apple j u i ce.) The l o nger the mangoes are cooked the t h i c ker the m i xt u re w i l l be. Remove f rom heat and coo l . M i x w i t h s l i ced bananas in a separate bow l . Fold i nto baked p i e she l l . Ch i l l a n d serve topped wi th w h i p ped c ream .

Y ie lds : 1 p i e Preparat i o n : 1 0 m i n utes Cook i n g : 1 0-20 m i n utes p l us t i m e to c h i l l and

p repare and bake p ie c ru st

"This is a heavenly dish. If mangoes are out of season, try the recipe with canned mangoes and cut down the cooking time. Combine the mangoes with peaches or pineapple instead of bananas for another treat. "

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Miccosukee Restaurant

Tamiami Trail (Miami) Flori da's I n d ian her i tage and food ways are character ist i c

o f southeastern Un i ted States I n d i an g roups, from whom several tri bes in the state are descended . The M i ccos u kee, for exam p le, come from the H i t ich i t i -speak ing branch of the Creek N at ion in the Caro l i nas and Georg ia . They i nterm i n­g led wi th nat ive F lorida t r ibes and the Sem i no les, who came to the state some years later in the 1 700s.

The M iccosu kee were recog n ized in 1 962 as a federal I nd ian tr i be, separate from the Sem i noles. Both tr i bes today have comp lete ed ucat ional , heal th and p u b l ic safety depart­ments, and both benef it from the 1 04,000-acre State I nd ian Reservat ion south of Lake Okeechobee, by the Everg lades National Park.

Trad i t ional ly , the men in the tri bes have been h u nters and f i shermen . One of the M i ccosukee i ncome sources today is derived from the V i l l age and Cu l tura l Center at the reserva­t ion , a l iv ing exam p l e of a real fam i l y cam p. V is i tors a long the Tam iami Tra i l can stop for a taste of Everg lades or American d i shes at the ne ighbori ng M iccos u kee Restau­rant . Tri bal Chairman Buffal o Tiger and his sons Lee (the

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tri be's p u b l i c re lat ions expert) and Stephen (an accom­p l i shed art i st) wel come guests who come to see how the M i ccosukee have preserved the i r old bel i efs , re l i g ion and customs.

The typ i cal v i l l age is com posed of several "ch i ckees. " These st ructu res consist o f a n open framework o f cypress poles covered w i th s lop ing pal metto fronds to keep out the rai n . The cooki ng ch i ckee is the most p romi nent in the cam p , and al l of the women prepare mea ls there over an open f i re on the g round . The fo ur cypress po les s u rround ing the f i re by custom are ai med towards the four corners of the earth . You can get an idea of the cook ing c h i c kee's i m por­tance by understand i n g that i n the matri archal I nd ian soc i ­ety, a husband-to-be bu i l ds a new ch i ckee i n h i s i ntended's mother's cam p . I f h is prospective br ide accepts h i m , she p laces cooki ng utens i l s in the c h i c kee and then the cere­mony takes p l ace.

The M i ccosu kee d iet trad i t ional ly cons ists of meat , r ice and f ish, w i th ven i son and d uck when they are in season . But as land has become l ess avai lab le , some of the o ld ways of obtai n i ng food have been restricted e i ther by state reg u la­t ion or as a res u l t of dwi n d l i ng supp l i es . Even some of the att i tudes toward eat i ng a l l i gator, ratt l esnake, and rabb i t (once forb idden as food sou rces) have beg u n to change over the years. Ask a modern I nd ian what he l i kes to eat and the answer is as l i ke ly to be a M c Donald 's hamburger as it is fry bread .

Sofkee, a common M i ccosu kee and Se m i no le d i sh , i s tra­d i t iona l ly made from cracked homi ny, corn kerne ls t reated with wood-ash lye . The soup- l i ke m i xtu re is ava i lab le throughout the day for peop le to serve themse lves whenever they ' re h u n g ry . N at ive fru i t trees such as the p i geon p l u m , seven -year app le , a n d seag rape are a lso stap les for raw o r cooked sweets.

.

The ann ual Green Corn Dance he ld i n June i s a fest ival that celebrates the new corn crop , the beg i n n i ng of the new year for the tri be, and formal i n d uction of the boys i nto manhood with new names. Dur ing the Christmas ho l iday season the M i ccosukees sponsor an I nd i an Arts Fest ival among more than 30 tri bes from al l over the Un i ted States. The V i l lage and Restaurant are open to the pub l i c year-round .

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Directions: The Miccosukee Restaurant is approximately 40 miles west of Miami on U.S. 4 1 (Tamiami Trail), on the north side of the road. The Village and Cultural Center are another quarter of a mile west, on the south side of the road.

While you're here: Take time to visit the Vil lage and Cultural Center, as well as the several Seminole centers a long the same road. Both tribes are an important part of Florida 's cultural make-up. Gift shop souvenirs include some of the colorful clothing and handiwork made by Indian craftsmen.

- N OTES -

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Miccosukee Restaurant Tamiami Trail

INDIAN FRY BREAD (MODERN VERSION)

2 Ibs. self·rising flour 2% C. water

cooking oi l

I n a large bow l , mix water we l l w i th f l o u r, u s i ng hands. Add add i t ional water i f needed . Turn m ixt u re i nto a dough by knead i n g i t for about 5 m i n utes. Divide the dough i nto 3 or 4 p i eces. F latten dough to at least a hal f- i n c h t h i c k by t u rn i ng over and ove r on pal ms of hands u n t i l eac h piece i s n i c e and round . Fry i n hot o i l i n s k i l l et , t u rn i n g when go lden . Fry Bread is done when both s ides are go lden brown. Dra in on paper towe ls . Se rve p la in o r w i th butter.

Y ie lds : 3-4 serv i n g s Preparat i o n : 1 0 m i n utes Cooki n g : 5 m i n utes

"The traditional method calls for fine hominy meal instead of flour, to be mixed with boiling water. We think this way is just fine. "

- N OTES-

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Miccosukee Restauran t Tamiami Trail

INDIAN FRIED PUMPKIN BREAD

2 C. self·ris ing flour (spoon l ightly when measuring)

1 1 6·oz. can pumpkin (not pumpkin pie f i l l ing) % C. white or brown sugar

oi l for fry ing

Com b i ne f l o u r, p u m p k i n , and su gar. B lend we l l and refri gerate for 2 h o u rs in o rder to f i rm up the dough a b i t . D iv ide d o u g h i nto 4 port ions . Knead each port i o n on a f l o u red board o r c loth for a few m i n utes or u n t i l i t can b e formed i nto a cyl i nder about 8 t o 1 0 in ches long . Cut each cyl i n der i nto 6 s l i ces. F lour each s l ice and form i nto a cake no more than a ha l f- i n c h th ick at the most . Fry the cakes i n hot o i l . T u rn when bottom s ide i s brown. When both s ides are b row n , d ra in on paper towe l s and serve immediately with b utter andlo r maple syru p .

Y ie lds : abo ut 24 s l i ces Preparat ion : 1 0-20 m i n utes p l u s t i m e for

refr igerati ng Cooki n g : 6-8 m i n utes

"This is one of the most popular snacks at the annual Florida Folk Festival. Instead of deep frying the cakes, follow the cook's suggestion of using a well·seasoned cast iron frying pan and filling the pan a little more than halfway with oil. Try serving these as a side dish with fried chicken or pork. They are best when served very hot."

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Miccosukee Restaurant Tamiami Trail

ORIGINAL INDIAN BURGER

fry bread dough mixture, halved (see recipe, page 223)

% lb. ground beef % onion, finely chopped 1 qt. water

cooking oil for deep frying

Brin g to a bo i l g round beef, on ion , and water. Red uce heat to s i m mer for 20 m i n utes. Drai n j u ices from ground beef . Have the f ry bread dough m ixtu re ready , s ized , and ro l l ed f lat on al u m i n u m fo i l d u sted wi th f lour. Take ha l f a handfu l of the cooked ground beef m ixture and set in m idd le of f ry bread doug h . L i ft dough gent ly around g round beef m ixtu re and overlap edges of doug h , p i n c h i n g and seal i n g w i th f i n g ers. Deep fry for 6 to 8 m i n utes. Dra in excess o i l on paper towel fo r a m i n ute . Cut open on top for cond iments , salt and pepper to taste.

Serves: 2 Preparat ion : 25-30 m i nutes Cooki ng : 6-8 m i n utes

"Goes great with cole sla w ! "

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Mangrove Mama's

Sugar Loaf Key Set at an ang l e by the s ide of the road agai nst a c l u m p of

t rees so that you 'd h ard ly know i t was a com mercial bus i ­ness, Mangrove Mama's is actua l ly a restau rant i n a cottage. I t looks more l i ke a vest ige of the 1 960s than i t does a contemporary enterprise.

Though i t i sn ' t typ i cal of a "conch" arch i tectura l style featu ri n g the wooden " g i ngerbread" des i g n s so popu lar i n the 1 9t h cent u ry, i t does have an ol d -t i me Keys atmosphere. The floors are concrete, the bar i s made from seasoned Dade p i ne , there's a porch d i n i ng area and a brick f i rep lace, and tab l es are dec ked with cotton tablec loths with fad ed fru i t patterns . You 've heard that the atmosp here i n the Keys is casual and la id back? H ere 's p roof. Mangrove M ama's "fee ls" l i ke a beach bar, but creat ive, homesty le cooki ng i s t h e emphas is , not t h e bar.

Jo in several nat ives at the counter-there are no strang ers here -and p repare for a t reat, f rom conch fritters wi th more conch per b i te than you may have sam p led e l se­where, to the taste sensat ion of fresh ly b roi led f ish with "D ix ie" fr ies, to the unex pected p leasu re of n utmeg

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shav ings that e n l iven the desserts. Conc h steak is f ixed with white wine and lemon j u ice for an exceptional variation on a pop u l ar local d i s h . Garl ic i s served on the s ide with every­th ing , "a way of l i fe" at Mangrove Mama's. Somet i mes home­baked goods are served from Mama LaBom ba's, n earby. The menu varies accord i ng to "season ," summer last i ng for seven months and wi nter temperatu res bei ng not m uch d i fferent .

Those open-door breezes wh isk ing past you r ear w h i l e you eat may b e somet h i n g more than a g e n t l e w i n d . You see, Mangrove M ama was ori g i nal ly the name of a boat owned by the restau rant's f i rst owner, Captai n Edward Waldon L in

'ton

( 1 880- 1 956). R u mor has i t that h is sp i ri t st i l l hau nts the s i te and the b u i ld i ng i tself , which has withstood many a h u rri­cane over the past 30 or so years.

V is i tors who are not nat ive conchs can on ly relax and enjoy the food and the com pany, sit aro u nd and hear tales about how Key Westerners came to be known as conchs, and l et their i mag i nat ion run free over the d i fferent colors of the waters of the Atlant ic Ocean and the G u l f of M ex ico.

With a l i tt le help from Mangrove M ama's n at u ral food , i t won 't take long for your Keys fantas ies to become rea l i ty.

Directions: Mangrove Mama 's is at Mile Marker 20. Take U.S. 1 to this marker, on the west side o f the road, just a short drive north of Key West.

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While you're here: The Keys are a nature lover's paradise. Here along the lower part of the chain are the state park a t Bahia Honda, Big Pine Key with its tiny deer and tall Caribbean pines, snorkeling and skin-diving along Looe Key Reef (a national marine sanctuary accessible only by water, southwest of Big Pine), camping facilities, and woods. Sugar Loaf Key was named after Indian middens (refuse heaps) that looked like sugar loaves to the early settlers. Nature tours and seaplane trips origina te from the Sugar Loaf Lodge.

On the last key to the west Undernea th an eagle 's nest, Dig a fathom in the rotted tier. The chests have rotted from their bales But the yellow gold will prove the tales About the MA NGRO VE BUCCA NEER.

© 1975 Anhinga Roost Music (SESAC) (Dale Crider) Printed by permission

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CONCH STEAK

1 conch * steak, fresh or frozen flour

1 egg, beaten clarif ied butter* *

% t. lemon ju ice 1 T. dry white wine

salt to taste

Mangrove Mama Sugar Loaf Key

Butterf ly conch steak by cutt i n g out the ve i n , s l i d i ng kn i fe down each s ide , and open i n g steak out to each s ide. Tenderize by pou n d i n g with m a l l et or bac k of a kn i fe . Dred ge steak i n f l o u r, d i p i n beaten egg , and bac k agai n i n to f lour. Saute ove r m ed i u m heat i n c l ar if ied bu tter, about 4 5 seco nds on eac h s i de. Add lemon j u ice , w i ne , and salt to taste. Serve i m med iate ly .

Serves: 1 Preparat i o n : 1 5-30 m i n utes ( inc l udes 1 0- 1 5 m i n utes

for tenderiz i n g conch) Cook i n g : 2 m i n utes

"The butter·lemon juice·wine combination is a perfect flavor enhancer for the conch. Try this sauce with other seafood as well. If conch is frozen, defrost it quickly under cold running water. Try serving this dish with steamed new potatoes or home fries. "

• Available at most seafood markets, o r write pub l isher for name of suppl ier in your area

"See Gl ossary

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Mangrove Mama Sugar Loaf Key

CONCH FRITTERS

% Ib. conch, tenderized 1 large o nion 1 sweet red pepper % t. salt % t. black pepper % t. garlic powder or to taste 1 t . baking powder %- % C. white flour 1 egg, sl ightly mixed

oi l to deep fat fry

Coarsely gr ind conch i n food processor or m eat g r inder and p l ace in separate m i x i n g bow l . Repeat for on ions and pepper. In a separate bowl add salt , pepper, garl i c powde r, and baki n g powd er to f lour and st i r to m i x . Add conch, onions, and pepper to d ry m i xture . Add egg and m i x we l l . You may have to add m ore f lour to b i nd the i n g red ients . Form m i x t u re i nto 1 6 fr itters. H eat oi l t o 350 ° F . and fry fr i tters , a few at a t i m e , u n t i l go lden . Drain and serve w i t h coc ktai l sauce, fresh h o rserad i s h , o r lemon j u i ce .

Y ie lds : 1 6 Preparat i o n : 2 0 m i n utes Coo k i n g : 1 0- 1 5 m i n utes

"You can use this recipe to make clam tritters as well, but you will have to use a little more flour for binding. The trick to these fritters is to use just enough flour to bind the conch and the other ingredients together. What a great way to savor real conch flavor!"

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DIXIE FRIES

Mangrove Mama Sugar Loaf Key

4 potatoes, cut in 3Js-inch strips, square on ends water vegetable oi l (such as soybean)

Soak potato str ips in 1 00 ° F . water for 1 5 m i n utes to take out excess starc h and p revent t u rn i ng b lack. Dra in water. Pat d ry. Fry a few at a t i m e i n 300 o f . oi l for 45 seconds. Cool at room t e m pe rat u re . Store and re-fry at 375 o f . to des i red brownness for another m i n ute o r less . Fr ies shou ld be cr ispy outs ide , tender and sweet i n s ide , and a ri c h , go lden-o range color .

Serves : 4 Preparat i o n : 20 m i n utes Cooki n g : 2 m i n utes per batch

"These fries can b e made with o r without the skins_ "

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Mangrove Mama Sugar Loaf Key

ONION RINGS WITH SESAME SEEDS

2 large onions salt

2 C. f lour 1 T. sesame seeds, or more to taste 1 egg, whipped sl ightly 1 C. ice water 3-4 ice cubes 114 t. white pepper

S l ice on ions i nto %-i nch r ings . Separate r ings and l i ght ly salt. Let stand for 1 0 m i n u tes at room temperat u re u nt i l on ion r ings are dam p and s l ight ly l i m p . M i x sesame seeds with 1 c u p of f l o u r and set aside. Make batter by m i x i n g the egg wi th the second c u p of f l o u r, ice water, i ce c u bes and pepper. Dip onion r ings i n f l o u r, then i n batter. Fry i n d eep o i l heated to 375 o f . for about 1 m i n ute , j u st u n t i l cr ispy brown outs ide .

Serves : 2-4 Preparat i o n : 1 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : 1 m i n ute per batch

"Try this technique and your batter will adhere beautifully to the onion rings. If you have extra batter, dip other fresh vegetables into it and prepare in the same way. Broccoli, mushrooms, or cauliflower come out 'tempura style. ' "

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MICHAEL'S BANANAS

2 oz. clarified butter· 2 pinches fresh ground nutmeg 2 ripe bananas, sl iced

Mangrove Mama Sugar Loaf Key

% fresh whole pineapple, cored and cut in chunks, or 1 small can chunk pineapple

2 T. fresh lemon juice 4 scoops van i l la ice cream

ground n utmeg for garnish

Heat butter in a sk i l let . Add n u tmeg and bananas and saute for 1 m i n ute ove r m ed i u m heat . When bananas beg i n to " m e l t , " add p i neapp le and l e m o n j u i ce . St i r and saute another m i n ute . Serve i n i n d iv idua l d i shes with a scoop of van i l l a ice cream ove r eac h . Spr i nk le n ut m eg l i g h t l y over the ice cream and serve.

Serves: 4 Preparat i o n : 20 m i n utes ( i nc l udes t i m e f o r cori n g

a n d prepari n g fresh p i neap p l e) Coo ki n g : 3 m i n utes

"This dish is a refreshing and cooling dessert, especially in hot weather. The aromatic spice of the fresh ground nutmeg makes it superlative!"

' See Glossary

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/ /

I

I j I I I I I

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Half Shell Raw Bar

Kev West Al l of Key West i s good for i mmers i n g yourse l f i n local

color, but one of your most memorable experiences may very we l l be at the Ha l f She l l Raw Bar. Here's w here many commerc ia l f ishermen congregate, and l u nc h is as l i ke ly to be somet h i n g u nexpected , fresh from the catc h , as it is to be something a l ready on the men u .

F i s h i n g i s p retty m uch a way o f l i fe , a raison d'etre. Stri ke up a conversat ion w i th a chap anywhere i n town , and chances are g ood he's e i ther done some p retty serious f ish ing or i s th i n ki n g about i t . And chances are even better he' l l be a reg u lar at the Ha l f Shel l , a long w i th fol ks from a l l wal ks of l i fe and j ust about every popu lat ion segment you can name in the Keys. I t 's t ru l y a p lace where anyone can go with anyone and be comfortable .

The Half She l l Raw Bar is somet h i ng l i ke a beach bar, w i th brick and concrete f loors, p icn ic tables w i th o ld hatch covers for tops, and naut ical decor l i n i ng the wal l s and ce i l ­i ngs- sponges, lanterns, f i s h heads, and l i nes. I t ' s a trad i ­t ion that whenever the S ig htsee ing trai n w h i st l es out front , whoever is s i tt i n g nearest the l i ne attached to a s h i p 's bel l at

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the counter m ust reach u p to the l i ne to r ing the bel l . I t 's a lso a trad i t ion to take snapshots of the peop le in your party pos ing at the " photo board " in front of the restau rant.

Owners Karl Coxhead and Pau l Tri pp , ori g i na l l y from Mon­treal and M i c h igan, respect ively, manage to keep al l the commotion in tow. Pau l had prev ious ly operated a l ocal guest house, and Karl , who had vacat ioned many t i mes i n Key West, grew u p i n a fam i ly that had always been i n the restau rant bus i ness. Pau l 's dad works with them here, too. Karl , by the way, i s a lso a m i me, and you ' l l see h i m in local theatrical performances when he has the t i me.

You won 't f ind any ru n-of-the-m i l l seafood pre parat ions here, so you m ustn 't be re l uctant to try n ew taste sensa­t ions . For example : g r i l led swordf ish , outstand i ng conch chowder, " p i n k gol d " (sh r im p), snapper a lmon d i ne , mako or b lack t i p shark, shark bites, smoked conch , oysters from Apalach ico la, barbecu e tuna salad . . . whatever the seas may y ie ld . Those fr ied th ings that look l i ke on ion ri ngs and are seasoned wi th garl ic and l i me? They're sq u i d ri ngs , u nex­pected l y tasty.

One t h i ng you won 't f ind on the Ha l f She l l 's menu is turt le , as the species of sea turt le found in local waters is protected by Florida law . There's a great ecolog ical sensi t ivity about mari ne l i fe in the Keys, and you ' l l be encouraged to adopt those concern s as your own when you real ize that human systems are del icate ly i nterwoven with all other l ivi ng systems.

In the final analys is , i f it 's good , f resh , and perm iss ib le by law, the Half She l l w i l l have your choice of seafood .

Directions: The Half Shell Raw Bar is at No. 1 Land's End Village. Take U. S. 1 all the way into town to Duval Street and turn righ t. Turn right again on Caroline, then left on Margaret Street all the way to the end.

While you're here: Just across from the restaurant are the historic Turtle Kraals and museum. "Kraals " is a Dutch word meaning holding pen or corral. Stakes used to be driven in to the ocean and the turtles destined to be made in to soup were dropped into the pens to be held for slaughter. Today, the Department of Natural Resources periodically sends 50 young sea turtles to the marina in an effort to prevent the species ' extinction.

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SQUID RINGS

Half Shell Raw Bar Key West

(Allow 2 to 3 hours to marinate and 1 hour for breading to set)

2 Ibs . squid *

MARINADE

juice of 3 Key l imes (may substitute other l imes) 3 cloves of garlic, crushed and chopped fine % t. freshly ground black pepper

Clean sq u i d * and cut i nto %-i nch r ings . M i x w i th mari nade i n g red ients and mari nate 2 to 3 hours .

BATTER

2 eggs 1 C. milk 1 C. flour 1 lb. f ine cracker meal

Prepare an egg wash (eggs and m i l k m i xed). Dust sq u id w i th f lour, d i p f i rst i n egg was h , then i n cracker meal . Refri gerate 1 hour for bread i n g t o set. Deep fry to a go lden brown.

Serves: 4-6 Preparat ion : Mar inate 2-3 hours, ref r igerate

bread i n g 1 hour Cooki ng : 5- 1 0 m i n utes

liThe fla vor is unusua/-a popular dish at the Half Shell!"

' T o clean squid, remove the spi ny translucent portion and th en p u l l head and legs from the envelope·l ike coveri ng. Peel ski n from the body and cut across the head above the eyes.

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Half Shell Raw Bar Key West

CONCH FRITTERS

1 lb. conch meat * , fresh or frozen, tenderized % large green pepper % medium onion 1 pickled jalapeno pepper, f inely chopped (or any

other hot pepper) % 1 -lb. box or less of Aunt Jemima's Complete

Pancake Mix peanut o i l for frying (or vegetable o i l)

Coarsely g r i n d tenderized conch m eat i nto m ix i n g bow l , e i t h e r w i th a m eat g ri nder or a food p rocessor. Be carefu l to keep t he j u ice. D ice g reen pepper and onion i nto Vwi n c h sq uares. P lace g reen pepper and on ion in a s i eve and blanch 1 m i n ute in boi l i ng water . Add g reen peppe r, o n i o n , jalapeno, an d pancake m i x t o conc h . M i x thoro u g h ly , add i n g water i f necessary . A l low to set f o r 3 0 m i n utes. Wi th smal l s c o o p o r hands, make bal l s about 1 i n ch i n d iameter . H eat o i l to 350 o f . Deep fry fr i tters, a few at a t i me, u n t i l deep golden i n co lor. Serve wi th coc ktai l sauce o r c h i l i sauce.

Serves: 8- 1 0 Pre parat ion : 1 0 m i n utes (p l u s 30 m i n u tes for batte r

to rest) Cooki n g : approxi m ately 3 m i n utes per batc h

"If you can 't get fresh conch, don 't be a fraid to use frozen. Defrost it quickly by running it under cold water. Be sure to pound the meat with a mallet to tenderize, as grinding doesn't do the job. These fritters make delectable hors d'oeuvres as well as a special treat for the family."

• Avai lable at most seafood markets, or write us for the name of a suppl ier i n your area.

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SMOKED FISH DIP

Half Shell Raw Bar Key West

1 lb. smoked fish * (kingf ish, marl in, tuna or sai lf ish)

1 stalk of celery 1f4 onion

Tabasco sauce mayonnaise lime juice

G rind smoked f i s h , ce lery and on ion into a m i x i ng bowl , u s i n g the padd le of the m ixer. B lend at a s low speed . Add enough mayonnaise to b ind . Season w i th Tabasco and l i me j u ice.

Serves: 6- 1 0 as an hors d 'oeuvre Preparat ion : 5 m i n utes

"Serve with crackers or in lettuce cups."

• B e sure t o remove bones.

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Half Shell Raw Bar Key West

KEY LIME PIE

C RUST

4 oz. softened butter 2 C. graham cracker crumbs % t. vani l la extract

FILLI N G

4 eggs, separated 1 6·oz. can sweetened condensed mi lk % C. Key l ime juice

M ER I N G U E

reserved egg whites 1 t. vani l la extract 1 t . cream of tartar % t . salt % C. super·fine sugar

For crust : B lend softened bu tter with g raham cracker crumbs and van i l l a extract . Spread and press m ixtu re around bottom and s ides of a 9-i nch p i e pan .

For f i l l i ng : B lend egg yo l ks and m i lk , t h e n add Key l i me ju ice. Fo ld i nto p ie s h e l l .

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Half Shell Raw Bar Key Wes t

For meri ng ue: Beat egg w h i tes u n t i l frothy . Add van i l l a extract , cream of tartar and salt and beat s l i gh t ly . Add s ugar gradua l ly , beat i n g we l l after each add i t ion . Cont i n ue beat i n g u n t i l m ixture forms st i ff peaks. Swirl over p ie f i l l i ng and bake at 400 ° F. un t i l mer i ng ue is brown , about 7 to 1 0 m i n utes. Refr i gerate i m m ed iate ly .

Y ie lds : 1 9-i n c h p ie Preparat ion : 1 5-20 m i n utes Cooki ng : 7-1 0 m i n utes

"Key Lime Pie is a real Florida treat. Fresh Key limes are found in season in some Florida supermarkets. Buy them when they are available, squeeze and freeze the juice for future use. "

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For those who t h i n k of Key West as a k ind of roman t ic retreat, a haven to q u i et ly go about dO ing your own t h i ng and without anyone botheri ng you, there 's a p l ace for you.

For t hose who wo u ld rather get a fee l for the i s land 's le isure pace over friend ly ch i t-chat, a newspaper and coffee, am id some of the nat ive p lants and f l owers, there 's a p lace for you .

And for those who prefer to take the ir t i me over a l ig ht , n ice ly prepared meal i n a s l ight ly offbeat, f u n ky envi ron­ment , there's a p lace for you .

A l l o f these needs can be met at Pepe's Cafe, t h e o ldest eat i ng p l ace i n Key West, i n bus i ness si nce 1 909. It has ap­peal ed a l l these years to local po l i t i cal g u rus , k ids , cou p les, art ist ic types, and whoever e lse wanders i n . I t 's been at its present locat ion s i nce 1 962 and is now owned by M o l l y and Edd ie Hogan , who came here from Martha's V ineyard i n 1 975. Mo l l y i s a n art ist herself , and you ' l l see some o f her pen and ink sketches by the entrance to the cafe .

You ' l l a lso not ice the g i ant ce i l i n g fan , nearly 1 0 feet i n d i ameter. I t 's constructed f rom a wash i n g mach i ne motor

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and hand made padd les . " Son of" the g i ant ce i l i n g fan, several feet away, i s j u st an ord i nary u n i t .

The ambiance created b y the rust ic wood pane l i n g on the i nterior, wooden booths and f i rep lace i nv i tes you to make yoursel f at home. Outside, protected from roadside passers­by via canvas and a fence, is the cafe 's g reatest charm , a pat io garden shaded by rubber trees and m u lt i -col ored bou­gai nvi l lea. In the back is the cafe 's own herb garden , wh ich suppl ies the freshest seasonings.

Menu fare changes w i th the season, l ig hter d i shes bei ng served in the summer, but some are served al l year. A rev iewer from the Philadelphia Enquirer raved about the ch i cken l ivers and scram bled eggs; Cosmopolitan l i ked the ch i l i . The vari at ions on a theme performed w i th pancakes and omel ets are q u ite sat isfyi ng , and you ' l l be torn between choos i ng the Cu ban coffee pie or the Cuban banana cream p ie . D in ners and mai n cou rses show a lot of i mag i nat ion , w i th occasional appearances by "guest chefs." Key l i mes for pie are home-g rown , and the bananas come f rom a l ocal source.

Do partake !

Directions: Pepe 's Cafe is at 806 Caroline Street. Take U. S. 1 all the way in to town. Turn righ t on Duval Street, the main downtown avenue. Then turn righ t on Caroline Street, to ad­dress. Pepe 's Cafe is on the right.

While you're here: There are so many things to see and do in the historic Old To wn. Sightseeing trains are a good way to begin. Then you can go back to favorite spots on your own, comfortably walking or bicycling around the en tire island. Ernest Hemingway, Tennessee Ernie Wi l l iams, and John James Audubon all spen t time here, and their homes are restored and open to the public. The preponderance of 19th-cen tury conch-style wooden architecture, which blends intricate Victorian design with practical construction with an eye to the weather, makes you wonder why anyone would ever wan t to build any other way here. In 1870 Key West was Florida 's largest city, but today, the "Conch Republic " is known primarily as a resort area, perhaps the most roman tic in the state. Here 's the perfect wedding just as our publisher did it: get married on a yacht on one of the romantic channels, have it all catered by the locals, then sail off for a 10 hour cruise !

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Pepe 's Cafe Key West

AVOCADO-BACON-SWISS CHEESE OMELET

3 eggs 3 T. half·and half

dash Tabasco salt and pepper to taste

2 T. ripe avocado, diced 1 oz. grated Swiss cheese 1 s l ice crisp bacon

Com b i n e f i rst 4 i n g red ients and beat we l l . Pou r i n to we l l -o i led ome let pan and cook over m ed i u m h eat u n t i l p u ffy. Add avocado, c heese, and c ru m b l ed bacon . Serve e i ther open-faced or fo lded over.

Serves: 1 Preparat i o n : 2 m i n utes Cook i n g : 3 m i n utes

"Let the cheese melt a bit before serving. "

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HOUSE DRESSING

% head garlic, peeled % C. water %-1 bunch di l l , chopped (stems removed) 1 % cucumbers, peeled and cut up 1 % C. sour cream 1 % C. mayonnaise

Pepe's Cafe Key West

B lend garl i c w i th water in a b lender or food processor. Add d i l l and c u c u m bers, then t h e sour cream . B l end thoro u g h ly. Pou r i nto a bowl and st i r i n mayon naise. Add salt and pepper t o taste . Store i n refri gerator.

Y ie lds : about % ga l lon Preparat i o n : 10 m i n utes

"This would also taste good over leftover or cold poached fish !"

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Pepe 's Cafe Key West

HUEVOS RANCHEROS SAUCE

% C. onions, chopped % C. green pepper, chopped 1 T. vegetable o i l

sa l t and pepper pinch of basil and garlic powder

1 t . cumin 1 28·oz. can crushed tomatoes

Saute o n i ons and peppers in o i l u n t i l soft . Add s p ices and tomatoes. Cont i n u e cook i n g over low heat u n t i l f lavors m e l d .

Y ie lds : abo ut 3 c u p s Preparat i o n : 5 m i n utes Cook i n g : 1 0 m i n utes

"This sauce can be served over eggs or grits. We baked thin pork chops for 35 minutes with 1 tablespoon of sauce per chop to keep them moist and then poured the rest of the sauce over the chops before serving. Add a few drops of Tabasco for extra dash."

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SEAFOOD STIR FRY

4 T. peanut oi l

Pepe 's Cafe Key West

2 C. any combination shrimp, lobster, or crab (cleaned)

1 C. s l iced mushrooms % C. sl iced green pepper 2 C. bok choy or Chinese cabbage 2 C. m ungbean sprouts 1 C. shredded cabbage (red or green) % C. s l iced celery % C. s l iced carrots % C. s l iced broccoli or yel low squash % C. sherry % C. Tamari * % t. ground ginger

H eat 2 tablespoons peanut o i l in wok over h i g h heat . St i r fry seafood and remove to hot p latter. Dra i n pan. H eat remai n i n g 2 tables poons of o i l . Add vegetables, sherry , Tam ari , and g i nger . St i r f ry u n t i l vegetables are done, about 3-5 m i n utes. Add h ot seafood to vegetab les and se rve over ri ce .

Serves: 6-8 Preparat i o n : 20-30 m i n u tes Coo k i n g : 1 0 m i n utes

"Use any amount of vegetables that appeal to you."

*Tamari can be purchased in health food stores. Soy sauce can be u sed as a substitute.

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Cutt i n g down the Saba I Pal m "Swamp Cabbage," Florida (Florida State Archives)

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Flora and Ella's Restaurant

laBelle Remember in o ld-t ime movies and stories about Americana

how there was always one p lace in town where you could go for j ust about al l you r busi ness-to buy g roceries, mai l a letter, buy a bus t icket, purchase a few sundries, s ip an ice cream soda or malt for two, or stop in for d i nner? Those p laces are j ust about gone now, except for an occasional "f ind." Flora and E l la's Restau rant is such a t reasu re .

That's Flora Hampton and E l la Burchard , and various re latives who make up the Poole fam i ly which is now in its seventh generat ion in this part of Florida. About the on ly people who were i n LaBel le before Flora and El la's g rand­parents were the Caloosa Ind ians, who were driven out d u ri ng the Semi no le Wars. Sett lement i n LaBel l e peaked i n 1 880 as steamboats along the Caloosahatchee R iver brought new residents. The restaurant t races its beg i n n i ng s to the g rocery store and meat market run by Flora and El la's parents dur ing the Depression.

The b ig events of each decade al l affected bus i ness, from the devastat i ng h u rricanes of the 1 920s to the G reat Depres­sion and World War I I . The restaurant actual l y opened in a log

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cab i n i n 1 933. Its i m med iate predecessor was a l i tt le ham­burger stand with hand-carved pine furn ish i ngs .

Today the restaurant represents a t r ip back i n t i me, with al most everyth ing the same as it 's always been. Even the Western Un ion off ice the Burchard fam i ly runs is the o ldest i n F lorida. And the menu i nc ludes p ioneer de l ig hts, w i th more ways to enjoy swam p cabbage than anyone has a right to i mag i ne.

Other Cracker food speci alt ies at Flora and E l la's d o j ustice t o Southern a n d sou l food trad it ions, al l f ixed t h e same way a s they've been si nce t h e 1 940s. No doubt the i r knowledge o f season i ngs has been i nf l uenced b y the i r g rand­mother, who, back i n the 1 880s, was a doctor of sorts and fam i l iar with al l the herbs that g rew in the woods nearby. But it 's their l uscious p ies that they're most known for , says E l la.

Whether or not you have Flor ida roots you rself , t h is i s one p lace where you can enrich your u nderstand i ng of the state 's h istory and smal l town heritage.

Directions: Flora and Ella 's Restaurant is on SR 29, at the junction of Bridge and Fort Thompson. LaBelle is about 25 miles east of Fort Myers, reached from 1- 75 by going east on SR 80. From 80, turn north on 29. The restaurant is on the west side of the road, a block and a half before you get to the bridge.

While you're here: The area is renowned for its annual Swamp Cabbage Festival in February. About 45 miles to the east in Lake Harbor is the Miami Canal Lock state historic site and museum, with displays that interpret Everglades reclamation and conservation programs. Flooding from Lake Okeechobee and hurricanes have been consistent problems and have been immortalized in a song by Florida 's "Black Hat Troubadour" Will McLean: "Lord, hold back the waters of Lake Okeechobee/Lake Okeechobee 's water is cold/When wild winds are blowin ' across Okeechobee/They're seeking and looking for other poor souls. " Today, acres of reclaimed lands are harvested frequently during the year for vegetables and sugar.

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SWAMP CABBAGE

Flora and Ella 'a LaBelle

2 or 3 meaty pieces of ham hock or other seasoning meat

2 to 4 swamp cabbages * (or 2 cans hearts of palm, rinsed and drained)

water salt to taste garlic salt to taste black pepper to taste rice (optional) dash of Tabasco sauce

Cover the ham hock with water and s i m m e r for 30 m i n utes i n order to create a stock. Place swam p cabbage i n pot and add addi t ional water to cover, i f needed . Taste to see i f salt i s needed. Add garl ic salt and pepper. Cover and bri n g to a s low boi l . Reduce heat and s i m m e r for 30 'm i n utes or u n t i l cabbage is tender. I f amount of cabbage i s l i m ited or i f you prefer it without m u c h "j u i ce," add a c u p or two of r ice after cabbage boi l s . St i r occasional ly to prevent st ick i n g . Add water, i f necessary, to mai ntai n desired texture . About 2 m i n utes before servi n g , add a dash of Tabasco. St i r we l l .

Serves : 3-6 Preparat ion : 30 m i n utes Cooki n g : 3-45 m i n utes

"If you are using canned hearts of palm: simmer with stock, garlic salt, and pepper until just heated through. Add Tabasco and rice (which has been cooked separately) just before serving. "

"Raw swamp cabbage must be cooked down l i ke greens. Al low 1 gallon greens per 2 quarts desired. See Appendix for i nformation on obtain ing th is state·protected p lant.

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Flora and Ella 's LaBelle

SWAMP CABBAGE SALAD

(Allow 6 oz. after preparation per serving)

raw swamp cabbage * or canned (drained and rinsed)

salt water (strong) hard·boi led egg pickles mayonnaise other fresh salad vegetables

If us ing raw cabbag e, f i rst soak i n salt water about 20 m i n utes. Drai n and ri nse. Add remai n i ng ingredients and m ix .

Preparat ion : 2 5 m i nutes

llif you prefer, substitute oil and vinegar for mayonnaise. You'll like the crunchiness."

' One head wi l l serve 8 with hearty appetites. See Appendix for in formation on obtain ing th is state·protected plant.

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Flora and Ella 's LaBelle

SWAMP CABBAGE WITH POTATOES

raw swamp cabbage * (allow 6 oz. after preparation per serving)

salt water (strong) potatoes, peeled and quartered cured ham, cut in 2·inch pieces salt and pepper to taste onions (optional)

Soak raw cabbage in strong salt water 20 m i n utes. Dra in and r inse wel l . Add remai n i n g i n g red ients . Cook over m ed i u m heat unt i l done .

Serves: depends on s ize of cabbag e head Preparat i o n : 25 m i n u tes Cook i n g : 30 m i n utes

Hlf you use canned hearts of palm, just drain and rinse before using. (Do not soak.)"

·See Appendix for in format ion on obtai n i ng th is state'protected plant. Or substitute canned hearts of pal m.

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Flora and Ella 's LaBelle

SOUR CREAM CAKE

1 C. butter (do not substitute) 3 C. sugar 6 eggs, separated, whites stiffly beaten 3 C. al l -purpose flour 1 C. sour cream % t. baking soda 1 t. vani l la 1 t. almond extract

Cream butte r and s u gar u nt i l very creamy. Add egg yo l ks , 1 at a t i m e , beat i n g wel l after each add i t ion . S i f t f lour 3 t i mes. Add bak i n g soda to sour cream and st i r. Add f l o u r and sour c ream alternate ly to butter­su gar-egg m i xt u re . B lend wel l after eac h add i t i o n . Add f lavori n g s a n d f o l d i n s t i f f l y beaten egg whi tes . Pou r i nto we l l -g reased , l i g ht ly f l o u red t u be pan. Bake 1 % hours at 300° F. Cool o n a rac k .

Y ie lds : 1 cake Preparat i o n : abo u t 1 5-20 m i n u tes Cooki n g : 1 % hours

itA combination of sugar, cinnamon, and nuts can be sprinkled on top of cake about 20 minutes before cake is done_ "

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2 C. sugar 1 C. water

LEMON MERINGUE PIE

% C. lemon j uice 1 t . lemon extract % C. butter or margarine

pinch salt 1 C. water

Flora and Ella 's LaBelle

5 egg yolks (save whites for meringue) 8 T. cornstarch 1 baked 9%·inch pie shell

Com bine f i rst 6 i n g red ients in a m ed i u m·s ize sau cepan. Br ing to a boi l over m ed i u m to m ed i u m h i g h heat, s t i rr ing occas ional ly. Mean w h i le , m i x second c u p o f water w i t h corn starc h a n d e g g yol ks. Blend w i t h fork u nt i l smooth . Po u r q u ick ly i nto boi l i n g m i xt u re , st i rr ing constant ly u n t i l t h i c kened. Pou r i nto p i e s h e l l , cool s l i g ht ly , and top w i t h meri ngue (see rec i p e page 257).

Y ie lds : 1 9%-i n c h p ie Preparat i o n : 15 m i n utes Cooki n g : 1 0 m i n utes

"Out of this world in richness! It makes a beautiful presentation to set before your family and friends."

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Flora and Ella's LaBelle

COCONUT PIE

1 9· inch baked pie shell 1 C. shredded coconut 1 % C. sugar 1 1 3·oz. can evaporated mi lk 1 1 3·oz. can water (reserve half) 1 t. vani l la 1 T. butter or margarine

pinch salt 5 T. cornstarch 5 egg yolks (save whites for meringue) 1 recipe for meringue (see page 257)

Pre pare p ie s h e l l , bake, and coo l . Com b ine next 7 i n g red ients in a med i u m-size saucepan . Br i ng to a boi l over med i u m to med i u m h i g h heat , st i rr i ng occas iona l l y . Mean w h i le , m ix remai n i ng ha l f can of water wi th cornstarch and egg yolks. B lend with a fork u n t i l smooth . Pour cornstarc h-egg yo lk mixt u re q u ick ly i n to boi l i ng m ixture. St i r constant ly u n t i l t h i ckened . Pou r i nto p ie s he l l . P i l e meri n g u e onto hot p ie f i l l i ng and bake for 8 m i n u tes at 400° F.

Y ie lds : 1 9-i nch p ie Preparat ion : 1 0 m i n utes Cook i n g : about 1 0 m i n utes

"Forget your diet! This is too good to pass up. It's a feast for the eyes as well and will assure you a reputation as a pie baker extraordinaire! "

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Flora and Ella 's La Belle

MERINGUE FOR COCONUT OR LEMON PIE

5 egg whites % t. van i l la for coconut pie or % t . lemon extract for

lemon pie % t . cornstarch % t. cream of tartar

pinch salt % C. sugar

Com b i n e al l i n g red ients except sugar in a l arge m ix i n g bowl and beat u n t i l frot hy. Add sugar g rad u a l ly and cont i n ue beat i n g u n t i l st i ff peaks form and sugar is total ly d i ssolved. Spoon mer ingue over p ie , maki ng s u re edges are sealed w i th mer ingue . Bake for abo ut 8 m i n utes i n a 400°F . ove n , j u st u n t i l l i g h t l y browned. Watch bak i n g t i m e caref u l l y . Cool pie g rad u a l l y in a warm p l ace away from d rafts .

Y ie lds : m e ri n g u e for 1 p i e Preparat i o n : abo ut 1 0 m i n utes Cooki n g : abo ut 8 m i n utes

UStart the meringue while pie mixture is cooking. The pie filling should be hot when you cover it with the meringue. "

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Flora and Ella 's LaBelle

ELLA'S PECAN PIE

1 g·inch pie shel l , unbaked 5 eggs 1 C. white sugar 1 C. white corn syrup % t . salt 1 t. vani l la 2 T. melted butter or margarine 1 C. chopped pecans (or 1 C. chopped walnuts)

Prepare a 9-i n c h p i e she l l . Do not bake. Break eggs i nto a l arg e m i x i n g bowl an d beat wel l . Add su gar, corn syru p, sal t , van i l la, and butter, one i ng red i e nt at a t ime, beat i n g we l l after each add i t i o n . St i r i n pecans . Po u r i nto p i e she l l and bake about 1 hour at 350° F. Pie f i l l i n g w i l l set and be f i rm when done.

Yie lds: 1 9- i n c h p i e Preparat i o n : about 1 0 m i n utes (p l u s t i m e f o r making

p i e she l l ) Cook i n g : about 1 hour

"This is one of the best pecan pies we've ever tasted. The extra eggs make it very light and heavenly. Serve warm or at room temperature. Add whipped cream or ice cream if you insist on gilding the lily!"

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Gator Grill

Marco Island So m uch deve lopment Ms occurred on Marco Island in re­

cent years that i t 's hard to f ind an "older" ne igh borhood or busi ness area. Condom i n i ums with spectacu lar v iews of the Gu l f of Mexico crowd the land along the waterfront, and subu rban-style resort c l u bs have sprung up al l over the island.

But i f you fol low the d i rect ions below very caref u l ly, you' l l f i n d a d iscovery i n a p leasant though otherwise und ist in­gu ished office b u i l d ing . The Gator Gri l l ' s park ing lot faces a marshy pond where you can l i sten to the b u l l frogs g u l p i ng i n harmony a l l day and a l l n i ght, and yes, there are al l i gators i n the pond, so don 't take you r pet for a wal k there .

The 'gator served at the Gri l l has on occasion been caught r ight i n the Gri l l ' s own back yard, but be thou hereby advised that state laws are very strict regard i ng who may catch al l i gators, u nder what c i rc umstances, and how they may be sold. The G ri l l even posts its own s ign that reads "Genu i ne Florida 'gator meat sold by special permiss ion of state," speci f ica l ly by the Game and Fresh Water F ish Comm i ssion (see page 286).

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Larry Amrhe i n , owner of the Gri l l , says most of h i s 'gators come from Naples. He cuts the tai l i nto f i l lets when the l icensed trappers bri ng i n the meat, then re-bags and freezes it un t i l i t 's to be cooked . Butchers i n Napl es do the g ri n d i n g and m i x i n g w i t h other i ngred i ents t o make 'gator bu rgers.

The rest of the men u is seasonal and standard g ri l l and sandwich fare, but at g reat low prices . Larry d oesn 't want to see bus iness go el sewhere, so he's carefu l to keep the prices down. Depend i n g on the ups and downs of the economy, there can be l i nes of construct ion workers w i l l i n g to eat l u nch stand ing u p when there's no room to s i t dow n .

Wh i l e you 're f i l l i n g u p on the eats, take a look at t h e garage sale items neat ly on d isp lay i n one corner of the restau rant. At one t i me or another, there's been everyth ing from a pot­bel l i ed stove to a teddy bear to a golf cart and who knows what other odds 'n' ends. I f you happen to be a "snowbird , " you ' l l g r in at another s ign c lai m i ng a "$5 m i n i m u m charge to l i sten to 'how beaut i f u l , cheap and big everyth ing is u p north . ' "

Except the 'gators . . . .

Directions: The Gator Grill is at 30 Marco Lake Drive. To get to Marco Island, take SR 92 from Royal Palm Hammock at U.S. 41 (Tamiami Trai/), or CR 951 from Belle Meade at 4 1 . Once you 're o n the island, take 951 t o the intersection with Bald Eagle Road (CR 953) and turn left. When you see the United Telephone Company building and antenna, turn left onto Marco Lake Drive and follow the small yellow signs that direct you to the Gator Grill at the back office buildings by the lake. If you 're coming from SR 92, turn right on CR 953 (Bald Eagle) and right at the phone company.

While you're here: Marco Island is great for shelling and even greater for watching the sunsets. Though it 's a little bit of a drive to get from Marco, a t the northern tip of the Ten Thou­sand Islands, to Everglades City, it 's worth the time. You can take an Everglades boat tour or fishing trip or visit the Everglades National Park, which contains almost a million and a half acres of land and water with all manner of mangrove trees, tropical flora and rare birds, game fish and reptiles.

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'GATOR BURGER

2-2% Ibs. 'gator meat*

Gator Grill Marco Island

% lb. lean, mi ld Ital ian sausage in bulk form 1 -2 eggs % C. bread crumbs

salt, pepper, garl ic, onion salt, Accent to taste

Gr ind 'gator meat , normal ly a tough , f ine and fat-free meat . Add sausage to hold meat together. Work i n eggs, bread crumbs, and season i ngs t o taste. M ix thoroug h ly. Make patt ies and gri l l , preferably o n a f lat surface i ndoors. Turn caref u l ly w i th a spatu la to avoid crumbl i n g . Serve on a ro l l and s ink you r teeth i nto the 'gator!

Serves : 4 to 6 Preparat ion : 1 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : 1 5 to 20 m i n utes

"Not your everyday kind of ordinary burger-delicious!"

'Only state·licensed trappers may catch a l l igators in F lorida, and only restaurants may serve or sel l the meat, pre·cooked. This recipe is presented so you may better enjoy it at the Gator Gri l l .

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State Farmers Market Restaurant

Fort Myers Farmers' markets are among the best ways to experience a

state's local color and farm f lavor. Fam i l ies and truckers d i sp lay the i r prod uce in sta l l s and p retty near hawk the i r p i ckin 's l i ke there's n o tomorrow. The on ly way t o get any­th ing fresher is to be there on the farm and p ick it yourself.

At the State Farmers Market in Fort M yers, several i nterme­d i ate steps between farm and reta i l estab l ish ment take p lace, namely, weig h i n g , inspect ion and sh i pp ing . The adjacent restaurant has catered to truckers, people i n the food i n ­d ustry, fam i l ies, and local busi ness employees for more than a quarter of a century. Thoug h the restau rant is med i u m sized, i t seems more l i ke a p lace for a large fam i l y g atheri ng , w i th g uests cal l i ng out across the room to each other as they see fam i l iar faces.

When B i l l Barnwe l l became the owner a few years ago, he kept the same rec i pes, staff, and c ustoms the restaurant al ways had . I t 's a trad i t ion to start every meal with an over­s ized basket of fresh cornbread and m uff ins, some 2,000 of which are consu med on a typical weekend d ay. And no one w i l l bat an eyel ash i f you pop a cou p le i nto a napk in to take w ith you, e ither.

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As you m ig ht expect, the vegetables are country-fresh d ishes such as turn i p greens and squash casserole when they're in season . For a return to the sp i ri t of the good 01' days of Sunday d i n ner after church, you ' l l feast on al l the old Southern favorites, accompan ied by three vegetables. It 's worth the wait . Even i f you f ind you rse l f shari ng tab le space with another fam i ly , i t 's a f ine way to make new friends.

Popular local seafood favorites start with Okeechobee cat­f ish and the ub iqu itous m u l let and grouper.

For a "sl i ce of l i fe ," Florida-style, t ry the State Farmers Market Restau rant.

Directions: The State Farmers Market Restaurant is at 2736 Edison Avenue. From 1- 75, take the Anderson A venue exit west. Turn south on Fowler Street (Alternate U.S. 41), then west on Edison Avenue to address. The restaurant is on the south side of the road. Or you can take U.S. 4 1 (Cleveland Avenue) and turn east on Anderson.

While you're here: Some of the main drives in Fort Myers are lined with block after block of stately royal palm trees and are some of the most scenic streets you'll see in any Florida city. Ride around, then visit the Thomas Edison Winter Home, complete with laboratory, botanical gardens and museum. The giant banyan tree on its 14-acre estate is the largest in the state. On 41 south of Fort Myers is an unusual Honeybee Factory and glass-enclosed observatory where you can watch the bees "in production " without getting stung.

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State Farmers Market Restaurant Fort Myers

OKRA AND TOMATOES

% stick margarine or butter 1 lb. tomatoes, quartered 2 Ibs. okra, trimmed and sl iced i f large 1 onion, chopped 1 T. sugar

salt and pepper to taste

Melt m argari ne or butter in a pot. Add tomatoes, okra, and on ion . Bri n g to a boi l . Cover and let s i m m e r u n t i l okra is tender. W h i l e t h e vegetables are cook i n g , mash the tomatoes f rom t i m e t o t i me. Season w i t h sugar a n d salt and pepper to taste.

Serves: 4-6 Preparat ion : 5 m i n utes Cooki n g : 30-45 m i n utes

"If you can't find fresh okra, use frozen, but rinse before cooking to remove the ice crystals."

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State Farmers Market Restaurant Fort Myers

FRESH COLLARD GREENS

col lard greens enough water to cover

2 small ham hocks or 1 fat back, chopped % C. bacon drippings % C. sugar

salt and pepper to taste

Wash g reens at least four t i mes to remove sand . Cut g reens i n smal l p ieces. Place i n pot and cover with water. Add ham hoc ks or fat bac k. Gent ly boi l for 2% hours or u n t i l g reens are tender. Add bacon dri p p i ngs , sugar, salt, and pepper to taste.

Serves: 6 Preparat ion : 1 0 m i n utes Cook ing : 2 V2 hours

"Drain greens before adding the seasonings. This is an authentic Southern dish!"

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Buttonwood Bar-B-Q

Sanibel For G reg and Diane Steger, mak ing the career switch from

u n related occupat ions i nto the restaurant bus iness m ust have been i n the i r stars. When they moved to Florida from Detroit , they were look ing for a reward i n g busi ness to get i nto. Trai ned as a resp i ratory therap i st , D ian e had previously sold t ropical f ish , but that was their sole pr ior conn ec­tion -and a remote one , at that-to anyt h i ng resemb l ing seafood. Her mother and father owned the Sant iva Cottages, across from the conven ience store next door to where the restaurant now stands. After she and G reg got sett l ed in the i r new home, she began smoking m u l let at the Sant iva M i n i ­Mart nearby.

Obviously, she was doing somet h i ng ri ght . After al l , she ad­m its, she does love to cook. Busi ness p icked up , and soon the whole fam i l y was i nvolved . They expanded the men u . Then, when G reg a n d Diane real i zed that barbecue was someth ing m i ss ing on Sani be l and Captiva Is lands, they dec ided to open their Buttonwood Bar B-O.

They bu i l t the l ight , woodsy bu i l d i ng from scratch and p lastered thei r customers' do l lar b i l l s al l over one wal l in the

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bar area. Watercolors by local arti sts add a p leasant col or contrast, and the ambience is cozy and rust ic , rather l i ke what you 'd expect Grandma's country p lace to be.

From its orig in as a carry-out operat ion , the Buttonwood now does a healthy si t-down busi ness. By t rial and error they've found what works best in the ir rec i pes, someti mes changing the orig i nal i ng redients. B lac k g rouper, shark, and trout are a few of the seafood d ishes avai lable, and they're always fresh.

But the d ist i nctive taste of their barbecue comes from buttonwood smoke. You ' l l read on the menu that Conocarpus Erecta, the buttonwood t ree, is found on these i slands in the transit ional zones separat ing salt-water mangroves from fresh-water p lants. Its f lavor, when used for smoking f ish , game, and other meat , is more de l icate than that of h ickory. The restau rant uses smal ler pieces of the wood g leaned from th inn ing and trimming the trees rather than chopping down whole trees, as the s ize of these ch ips is more convenient.

Greg says they constant ly strive for consistency i n thei r cooking, which is one reason they've earned a good reputa­t ion. The cabbage for the cole s law is hand c ut , and you can te l l that Diane especial ly loves to bake j ust by looking at the dessert tray fu l l of the day's creat ions.

It 's worth the tr ip out to the pass between Sani be l and Capt iva.

Directions: The Buttonwood Bar B-Q is at 64 10 Pine Road. You've shelled out your greenbacks for the toll over the Sanibel Causeway (SR 867), which is called Periwinkle Way through Sanibel. Follow 867 approximately 10 miles to the restaurant, just off the main road.

While you're here: The twin islands of Sanibel and Captiva are unparalleled for exotic shelling, and visitors often return home with the stooping posture of beachcombers. Wildlife photographers and nature enthusiasts will have a field day at the peaceful J_N_ "Ding" Darling National Wildl ife Refuge, another unsurpassed natural resource.

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Buttonwood Bar B-Q Sanibel Island

SMOKED MULLET

(A l l ow t i m e to soak ahead)

fresh whole m ullet salt pepper garlic paprika

Remove f u l l f i l l et from eac h s ide of f i s h . Leave sk in and scales o n to act as a retai ner for j u ices . Soak f i l lets approx i m ate ly 2 h o u rs in salt water. Remove and p l ace on g ri l l in sm oker. Season w i t h salt , pepper, garl i c , and papri ka to taste. S m oke w i t h butto nwood m an g rove * , i f avai lab le , an d c o o k u n t i l f laky, about 3 t o 4 hours a t 1 95 ° F.

Serves : 1 -2 Preparat ion : 2 hours to soak Cook i n g : 3 to 4 hours

"Don't leave Florida without trying iff"

· May subst it ute other

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Buttonwood Bar B-Q Sanibel Island

SMOKED MULLET SPREAD

2-3 f i l lets smoked mul let % C. chopped on ion % C. chopped green pepper % C. chopped celery 2 a-oz. pkgs. cream cheese %-% C. mayonnaise

horseradish to taste paprika

Pee l f i sh f rom sk i n and break into smal l p ieces. Set aside. Add all i n g redients to cream cheese and m i x together to a smooth cons istency. Add smoked m u l let . Form in to a bal l and spri n k le w i th papri ka. Refri ge rate .

Serves : 6 as an hors d 'oeuvre Preparat i o n : 1 0 m i n utes (a l low t i m e for c h i l l i ng )

"Wonderful on crackers or as a spread for a sandwich !"

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Button wood Bar B-Q Sanibel

surrONWOOD CARROT CAKE

2 C. a l l ·purpose flour 1 % C. sugar 2 T. baking soda 2 T. c innamon 1 T. baking powder % T. salt 4 large eggs 1 C. mayonnaise (to make cake moist) 3 C. coarsely grated carrots, peeled % C. pecans

G rease and f l o u r an 8-c u p bundt pan . M ix a l l d ry i n g redients together. Add eggs and mayon naise and cont i n u e beat i n g . St i r in carrots and pecans. Reserve 2 tables poo n s of the batter to add to frost i n g . Po u r re mai n i n g bat ter i n to bundt pan . Bake a t 350 ° F. for 45-55 m i n utes or u n t i l a cake tester i n serted i nto t h e m idd le comes o u t c l ean. Frost cake when c o o l w i t h Cream C heese Frost i n g on next pag e.

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Button wood Bar B-Q Sanibel

CREAM CH EESE FROSTING (makes about 2 cups)

2 3·oz. packages cream cheese at room temperature 2 T. reserved carrot cake batter 2 C. confectioners sugar, sifted if lumpy 1 T. vanil la extract

Beat c ream c heese and batter in a med i u m-s ize bowl at med i u m speed u n t i l no l u m ps remai n . Add s ugar and van i l la. Beat at h igh s peed u n t i l f l u ffy. Spread over cake. You may have to add add i t ional sugar to get a spreadable consistency.

Yie lds: 1 cake Preparat ion : 20-25 m i n utes Cooki n g : 45-55 m i n utes

"This is a rich cake that is not too spicy. If you prefer one that is spicier, add more cinnamon and a tablespoon of nutmeg."

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Button wood Bar B-Q Sanibel

SEA TROUT OR GROUPER IN BEER BAITER

1 cup self-rising flour, plus extra for d ipping 1 1 2-oz. can beer 1 T. baking powder

pinch of salt and paprika 4-6 fish f i l lets

Com b i n e 1 cup of f l o u r and al l ot her i n g red ients except f ish i n a larg e bowl and mix wel l . D i p f ish f i l l ets i n f l o u r, tap l i g ht ly w i th a k n i fe s o that the f l o u r ad heres. Then d ip f i s h i n batter. Deep fry u n t i l go lden brow n .

Serves: 4-6 Preparat i o n : 2 m i n utes Cook i n g : Depends upon t h i c kness of f i s h

"This is a light and delicious batter. Be sure not to overcook the fish. We usually open the beer about an hour before using, to get rid of some of the air bubbles."

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The Crab Trap

Palmetto I t 's a common s i g ht on a s u m mer eve n i ng to see pai rs of

k ids or fam i l i es am b l i ng out by a p ie r or i nto a marshy area near brac k ish water. They ' l l be armed wi th d i p-nets and cane poles, and h u n ks of f ish or raw c h i c ken as bait to catch a bucketfu l of b l ue crabs for d i n ner. B lue c rab is one of some 4,500 species of crab worldwide and one t hat 's especial ly popu lar in F lor ida.

Caught commerc ia l l y , th ree s h i pments of b lue c rabs come i n every week from Pu n ta Gorda and are sent to The Crab Trap, where t hey end up in an assortment of w i n n i ng d i shes f i xed as many ways as you can i mag i ne . Owners Margaret and Lee C l i n e, formerly from the Chesapeake Bay area, have brought the i r Maryland rec i pes w i th them to adapt to what's caught loca l ly . Lee has a penchant for th i ngs that are d i fferent, ref lected in the E u ropean and Cari bbean names ap pl ied to some of the entrees.

In add i t ion to the variety of crab d i shes, you ' l l f i nd p lenty of F lor ida reg ional fare rang i ng f rom 'gator and cooter to shark and swordf ish , al l depend ing on the season and avai l ­abi l ity. Even the s ide d i shes are d i fferent-crab fri tters,

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scal loped bananas, and c lam-stuffed m us h rooms . One of the tr icks the C l i nes h ave l earned i s to use mayon naise to baste the f ish before bro i l i n g or fry ing so that the nat u ral f lavor is "seal ed i n . "

Be prepared to wait for a seat. Lee 's ph i losophy is to take the t ime req u i red for each order to prepare i t "exceptional ly ," rather than to rush through the cooki ng and end u p with on ly mediocre resu l ts. You won't m i nd the wait , though, i n the large and comfortable lou nge area.

Take i n the wal l d ecor before you ' re seated at a tab le . Agai n , you ' l l not ice the CI i nes' "d i fferent" tou c h . The l ight ing f ixtures are or ig i nal c reat ions that Lee made out of f ish traps. Cypress knees and cedar g race the wal l s , covered wi th woven g rass and reeds. The hand-crafted exot i c b i rd s come from St . Cro ix . The cork on t h e booths i sn 't j u st for decorat i ve p u rposes; it p rovid es good acoust ics as wel l .

Don 't be su rprised i f you ' re asked for an o p i n ion o n a new d i sh the C l i nes may be t ry i ng out . On the other hand, don 't by shy about s uggest i ng a d ish for them to test !

Directions: The Crab Trap is located directly on U.S. 19 in Palmetto, north of Bradenton and Sarasota, two miles south of the south toll plaza of the Skyway Bridge into St. Petersburg.

While you're here: Just a few miles ' hop across to U.S. 301 is the J udah P. Benjamin Confederate State Historic Site at Gamble Plantation. The mansion was built in the late 1840s by Major Robert Gamble, a successful officer during the Second Seminole War. For a time the plan tation was the leading producer of sugar and molasses in Florida. It 's fully restored with pre-Civil War furnishings. There are picnic facilities outdoors.

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The Crab Trap Palmetto

CLAM-STUFFED MUSHROOMS

1 0 oz. fresh clams, cooked and minced about 3% oz. l iquor (brandy recom mended)

1 C. Ital ian or plain bread crumbs % C. vermouth % C. butter or margarine, melted

oregano to taste % C. f inely chopped celery % to % C. grated Romano cheese

salt and pepper to taste % C. Parmesan cheese 1 2- 1 8 large, fresh m ushrooms, stems removed

Co m b i n e a l l i n g redients except m us h rooms. Stuff i nto m u s h rooms and bake at 400 o f. for 10 to 15 m i n utes. Serve p i p i n g hot .

Serves: 4-6 as an hors d 'oeuvre Preparat i o n : 5- 1 0 m i n utes Cook ing : 1 0 - 1 5 m i n utes

"Before you add the oregano, be sure to crush it in the palms of your hands to release the flavor. II

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The Crab Trap Palmetto

CRAB IMPERIAL

1 % Ibs. back f in blue crab meat 3 T. butter 3 T. flour 1 C. m i lk 1 C. mayonnaise 1 T. Worcestershire % t. salt % t . Tabasco Sauce 1 egg, wel l beaten

paprika

Pick ove r crab meat for she l l s and cart i lage. Set aside. M e l t butter. B l end in f lour. Cook, st i rr ing constant ly for a m i n u te or two . Add m i l k and cook, st i rr ing u n t i l t h ick . B l end i n mayo n naise and season i n gs . Fo ld in beaten egg. Then g e nt l y fold i n the crab meat . Spoon i nto i nd iv idual crab or scal lop s h e l l s or casseroles. Spri n k l e w i th papri ka and bake at 400 ° F. for 1 0 to 1 2 m i n utes or u n t i l b u bb ly .

Serves: 6 Preparat ion : 1 0- 1 5 m i n utes Cook i n g : 15 m i n utes

"This dish is light and delicate. It's perfect as a first course or as a main dish. A dd some parsley to garnish and serve with a tossed salad and bread sticks or hot garlic bread."

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GLOSSARY All-purpose flour - Pla in f lour that has no salt or bak i n g powder ad ded.

Blanch - To parboi l for 30 to 60 seconds and then p l unge i n cold water.

Bechamel (see Cream Sauce)

Braise - To cook s lowly in fat u n t i l b rown , then add i n g a smal l amount of l i q u i d , cover ing and s i m mer ing .

Brown sauce/Sauce Espanol - A r ich beef stock red uced and th i ckened with ro ux. May be purchased as beef gravy.

Beurre manil:! - 1 t . f lour m ix ed with 1 t . butter, for t h i c ken­ing soups and sauces. Shape i n to l i t t le bal l s and freeze to be used as needed .

Butterfly - To cut agai nst the gra i n or cut lengthwise, leav­i n g meat attac h ed on one s ide . Th is is done for appearance and to tenderize.

Chop/Dice/M ince -

Chop = 1 /4- i nch c u bes Dice = 1 /8-i nch cu bes M i nce = smal l est cubes

Clarify/Clarified - To make butter c l ear by heat i n g and removing al l whey or sed i ment as it ri ses to the top. Then caref u l l y strai n . Cl ari f i ed butter w i l l keep for at least a week i f t i g ht ly covered and refr igerated .

Crackermeal - F i ne meal made from crackers, f i ner than corn meal and used as a more de l icate coat i n g for meats_ Can be purchased or made from u nsalted soda crakers ro l l ed on a wooden board with a ro l l i ng pan .

Cream sauce/Bechamel - Wh ite sauce made wi th m i l k.

1 T. butter 1 C. hot m i l k 1 T . f lour salt , pepper, n utmeg to taste

Make ro ux of butter and f lour. Cook u n t i l smoot h , abo u t 2 m i n utes. Remove from heat . S lowly w h i s k i n h o t m i l k u n t i l smooth . Cook 1 m i n ute more and season. (Y ie ld : 1 c u p)

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Cream sauce is Bechamel made wi th cream i n stead of m i l k. Veloute i s Bechamel made wi th w h i te stock (such as ch icke n , vea l , or f ish) i n p lace of m i l k.

Crepes - Th in pancakes (use b lender or food p rocessor).

3-4 eggs 1 C. f lour 1 % C . m i l k % tsp. salt 3 T. butter (me lted)

Com b ine a l l i n g red ients in processor and b lend u n t i l smooth . A l low batter t o rest 1 hour before fry i n g . May be kept i n refr igerator for 1 week. A l low 2 T. for each crepe i n a 6- inch pan.

Deep-fry - To cook by i m mers ing in hot o i l or fat in a pan deep enough for o i l to cover food com pletely.

De-glaze - To pour l i q u id such as wi ne , water, or stock in a cooki n g pan, scrap i n g sides and bottom wi th a woode n spoon to loosen res id ue.

Demi-glaze - A red uced brown sauce.

Devein - To c l ean shri m p by removi ng b lack f i l ament f rom the back, before or after cook i ng .

Dredge/Dust/Flour - To d ip i n or spri nk le l ig ht ly w i th f lour .

Fatback - Pure pork fat that i s cut from the back of the p i g , fresh or sal t-c u red .

Fil let/Fi let - To cut o r sl i ce f ish that has been c leaned , deheaded , and scaled down both s ides of the backbone. Boneless p i eces of meat or f ish are cal led f i l l ets.

Fold - To mix one i n g red ient i nto another s lowly and gently, w ithout break ing , as with egg wh ites that m ust be kept l ight and f l uffy.

Glaze - A t h i n , smooth coat ing such as m i l k, melted butter, or other i ng redient brushed on top of food to g ive it a sh iny appearance.

Grits - A favor i te side d ish for a Southern meal . They are broken g rains from corn homi ny, which is corn with the h u l l and germ removed.

Jul ienne - To cut i nto th in matchst ick-l i ke stri ps, or strips that are so c ut .

Knead - To work a mass of dough i nto a u n i form texture by fold i ng and pressing with the heels of you r hands unt i l dou g h is smooth a n d e last ic .

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Marinate - To soak food i n l i qu id usual ly p i ckled wi th v in­egar o r wine and o i l as wel l as spices and herbs that both add flavor and tenderize the meat or f ish . The l i q u i d is cal led mari nade.

Poach - To s immer gently in hot l iq u i d , to cover.

Puree - To force food through a s ieve or b lend in food proc­essor u n t i l smooth.

Reduce - To cook or s i mmer a l iqu id u nti l i t i s less; to con­centrate f lavor.

Roux - An equal amount of butter and f lour browned together unt i l smooth. Used to th icken many sauces and g ravies.

Salt Pork - General ly pork fat c u red in salt .

Saute - To cook l ight ly in an open , shal l ow pan, with a smal l amount of butter or fat, brow n i n g eve n l y and seal i n g i n the j u i ces.

Score - To make shal low cuts in su rface of meat.

Simmer - To cook i n water o� other l iq u i d below or j ust at the bo i l i ng pO i nt.

Steam - To expose to water vapor by cooki ng w i th a smal l amount of boi l i ng water i n a t ig ht ly covered pan .

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FLORIDA BEEF Say " beef" and most people probably t h i n k of the Iowa

corn-fed variety. But F lorida has been rais i ng catt le longer than any other state i n the country. I t al l started when Ponce de Leon brought the f i rst Andalusian catt le to the N ew World in the early 1 500s.

These f i rst scru b cows, forerunners of Texas Longhorn s, were not very big. Some h i storians said they were " rid icu­lous" i n appearance and not very good as beef or m i l k pro­d ucers. But the cows were a hardy breed that cou ld wi thstand F lorida's c l imate and u nexp lored wi lderness areas. Over the centuries, as breed ing technology i mproved, F lor ida catt le i mproved to the extent that calves are now sh i pped to two­th i rds of the Un i ted States, the greatest n u m ber be i ng sent to the Texas Pan hand le .

Florida is the on ly state i n the Southeast c lassed as a range catt le state. W h i l e today's catt le are kept i n large, fenced pastures, wi ld - looki ng cowboys in the o ld d ays used to herd the cows by crack ing the i r w h i ps as they rode . Accord i ng to folk lore, they were n i c knamed "cracker cowboys," later shorten ed to j ust "cracker. " N owadays Cracker also means someone who was born and raised in F lor ida.

The l argest p rod ucer of beef in the Southeast, F l ori da has recent ly concentrated on crossbreed i n g Brah mans with Eng l ish or Con t i nental breeds and other p u rebred stock. Restaurants servi ng steaks and chops are popu lar especial ly in the "heart land " area between Ocala, Lake Okeechobee, and the centu ry-o ld cow town, K iss immee. The cow camp at the Lake Kiss im mee State Recreat ion Area, accessib le from U.S. 27 near Lake Wales (cal l the recreat ion area for d i rec­t ions) , is a colorfu l re-creat ion of what th is aspect of Cracker l i fe was l i ke.

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FRESH FLORIDA FRUITS AND CITRUS

Fl orida produces nearly 80 percent of all the oranges g rown in the country and two-th i rds of the cou ntry's total c i trus crop. Half of the crop is frozen as j u ice concentrate, as j u i ce, of course, i s what the Florida orange i s best known for. Some of the most popu lar varieties are Valenc ias (the j u ice orange), Tangelos (tangeri ne-grapefru i t hybrids), Navels (good for eat i ng) , and Parson Browns (named for a 1 9th­century pastor who added to his i nsuff ic ient i ncome from preach ing by g row i ng oranges). Sou r oranges, usual ly found g rowi ng w i ld , are used i n many Span ish and Cuban rec i pes.

Grapefru i t i s not to be overlooked , e i ther. Current ly the Citrus Com m i ssion is test ing both sugar-sweetened and low­calorie sweetened j u i ces on the market. Kumquats and cala­mond i ns are c lose c i trus re lat ives, favored for use i n j e l l ies and marmalade and as ornaments.

F lor ida g rows mangoes wh ich can be used at j ust about any stage of g rowth . Th is fru i t ori g i nated in anc ient I nd i a and spread to warm c l i mates al l over t h e world v i a t rade routes of the exp l orers, reac h i ng F lor ida j u st before the Civ i l War. Su rpri s i n g ly , t h i s l u sc ious fru i t i s aki n to po ison ivy, and i f you're al lerg i c to i ts sk i n , you may want to wear g l oves wh i l e hand l i ng i t . F lavors range from a p i neapp l e taste to peach to me lon . A spec ial t reat is mango ice c ream, wh ich you can make very s imp ly by b lend ing one p i n t of d i ced r ipe fru i t with one q uart of ice m i l k and freez i n g .

Papayas are melon- l i ke fru i ts that c a n b e used as vegetab les when they are st i l l g reen. Th is fru i t a lso has a wide range of f lavors and is often seasoned w i th l i me j u i ce and honey or sugar. One variety i s somet i mes cal led " pawpaw" in parts of the Cari bbean .

Guavas are among the older fru its nat ive to the Ameri can t rop ics , g rown here even before European explorat i o n . Yel low a n d strawberry g uavas are t h e ma in types, and t h e i r variety o f sweet f lavors makes t h e m de l i c ious i n je l l i es and pastr ies, or with squares of cream cheese.

Key L i mes are F lori da's best known t rop i cal fru i t , famous for their use in Key L ime p ie . The p u l p of these l i mes is yel low, not g reen . Yo u can te l l i f the Key L ime pie you are be ing served is the real t h i ng by its col or. Enj oy !

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'GATORS There's qu ite a myst ique about al l i g ators, an u n m i stakably

Florida symbol . The 1 8th-century botan ist Wi l l iam Bartram wrote that they were so numerous i n some parts of the state "that it wou ld have been easy to have wal ked across on the i r heads had the an imals been harm less."

Of course, t hey ' re not harm less. Those g reat snapp ing jaws can make m i ncemeat of a calf or even a fearsome Dober­man, sen d i ng an unsuspect i n g v ict i m to an i mal heaven i n seconds. Over the decades, th is descendant o f d i nosaurs has been val uable for its h ide and its meat. Today the state has protected the species and is maki ng an effort to manage i ts large, dynam ic popu lat ion and hand le nu isance com plai nts.

At any g iven t i me, there are about 60 "al l igator contro l agents" around the state. I f there is a problem 'gator on you r property, cal l the Florida Game and Fresh Water F ish Com­m ission. When a com p lai nt comes i n , the agency i ssues a l i cense for a t rapper to capture the speci f ic 'gator, e i ther for re locat ion or for d i s posal . General ly , though , once a n u isance, always a n u i sance, so d i sposal i s more common. The t rapper gets a percentage of sal es for g iv ing the h i de to the state for auct ion , and he se l l s the meat to authorized restau ran ts.

You can 't j ust go out and t rap your own 'gator to make a meal of the beast. The days of poac h i n g are pretty much gone , and i t i s i l legal to t rap one wi thout a l i cense. But a local fo l k lore has spru ng u p that the h u nter who was once known as the b iggest poacher of a l l is now the operator of a h ugely successfu l 'gator farm on Lake Okeechobee, one of only a handful of such farms in Florida.

The only l egal way you may eat 'gator meat i s cooked , and on ly restau rants are authorized to cook i t . The most com­mon way of serv ing 'gator is f r ied 'gator ta i l , in b i te-s ized p ieces. The cooked meat is f lavorfu l and wh i te , l i ke c h i cken, and somet i mes can be chewy or tou g h , depend ing on the part of the 'gator that i s used .

Better for you to b ite the 'gator than the other way around !

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SWAMP CABBAGE Some peopl e who don 't l i ke the thought of " roug h i ng i t"

t h i n k they wou ld n ' t l i ke a d ish w i th a name l i ke swam p cab­bage . . . unt i l they l earn that it 's ju st the Crac ker name for hearts of pal m . Spec i f ical ly, it's the heart of the sabal (cab­bage) pal m , Flori da's state t ree.

Actual ly, t h i s "tree" is botan ical ly a "monocot." That's short for monocotyl edon, p l ants whose embryos produce s i n g l e paral le l -vei ned l eaves. Once the bud is destroyed, the pl ant d i es . Thus, t h i s kind of "tree" is real ly more l i ke a l i ly than a real tree that produces not one but two such l eaves so that it can pro l i ferate .

Marjor ie Ki n nan Raw l i ngs h ad voiced the concern of many back-country fo l k when she wrote Cross Creek Cookery, say­i ng " . . . t h i s g reatest of F lorida vegetabl es i s the w h ite core of a young pal m tree, and i ts cutt i ng means the death of the tree." Feari ng that the groves m i g ht eventual l y be w i ped out, she poi nted out a better reason for the tree's val ue, as an anchor to ident i fy the locat i o n of a sportsman's cam p. She did acknowledge, t houg h , that bears knew the food val ue of swam p cabbage. The best trees are those that are e i g ht to 1 0 feet tal l , g row i n g not too c lose t o t h e water, s h e w rote.

Today the sabal pal m is protected by state law. A permit is req u i red from the F lorida Department of Agricu l tu re and Con sumer Servi ces for removal and harvest i n g . But w h i l e the fresh p lant i s avai lable on ly u nder certa in c i r­cumstances, the can ned vers i on i n the gourmet sect ions of g rocery stores i s read i l y avai lable for modern cooks who p refer conve n i ence. And not only is the p lant good for food, but i ts f i ber, used to make brushes and brooms worldwide, is the only natural brush f iber g rown and processed in the country .

Swamp cabbage mi xes so we l l w i th other foods that you can eve n make a mai n cou rse of it. Actual ly , i t 's better when prepared w i th another f lavori n g , as i t can taste b land, even bitter, when served alone. The Sem i no le I nd ians add can ned syrup and sal t, for exam ple . Sal t pork, any c u red pork cut (ham hock, smoked bacon, pork shoulder, and so forth ) and most w i l d game al l make good seaso n i ngs .

Exper iment w i th the rec i pes we've p rov ided and some of your own, and you ' l l see how eas i l y swam p cabbage can become part of you r everyday men u .

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CONCH Key l i me p i e may be the most famous i n d iv id ual d ish from

the Flor ida Keys, but "conch is k ing" as a stap le. The rose­p ink sp i ral she l l f ish contai ns a sweet-flavored, j u icy meat that lends itself to a variety of rec i pes.

The conch is so much a part of Keys menus that its name is also the n ickname of nat ive res idents. H i storica l ly , a real conch (say KON K) i s a descendant of one of the orig i nal Baham ian renegade fam i l ies who came in search of turt les and wood for bu i l d i ng . Def i ant ly i ndependent, they swore they'd "eat conch" before they'd pay h igh Br it ish taxes. And eat conch they d id , l i ked i t , and the name stuck. Conch c u is ine today is a curious m ixture of coc kney, tangy Car ib­bean, Cracker, and Lat i n-American i nfl uences.

The largest species found i n North America, the Florida conch is housed in an attract ive she l l often used for decora­t ion and as a horn . There's more to removi ng the an i mal i n ­s ide than j ust breaki ng the t ip o f the she l l and i nsert i ng a f ine , th in kn i fe b lade to cut the snai l away from the muscle that holds i t i n p lace. It takes practice, but once you ' re experi­enced, you shou ld be ab le to do i t very q u i c kly.

Other ways of removi ng the meat i n order to preserve the she l l are to boi l it or apply heat to the t i p , or to entice the snai l out by rubbi ng its exposed area with salt, g rabbi ng and p u l l ­i n g hard .

The meat is tough and needs to be mari nated f i rst, beaten with a mal let , or cooked at l ength to tenderize i t . Conch is good raw, too, i n a salad or eaten l i ke oysters, but Key l i me j u ice w i l l he lp soften the meat f i rst. Try it the way the natives prepare it , by maki ng "old sour." Di ssolve one tabl espoon of salt i n a p i nt of l ime j u ice, ferment at room temperatu re at l east two weeks, and then mari nate the conch. Add a dash of cayenne pepper if you want an extra hot zi ng .

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MINORCAN SPECIALTIES Some of Florida's most d ist i nctive et h n i c foods have been

kept al ive in St. August i ne's M i norcan com m u n ity. Led by Dr. And rew Turnbu l l , a g roup of sett lers from the Med i terranean i s land of M i norca had come to N ew Smyrna Beach in the 1 700s. But w i th dwi n d l i ng food supp l ies and the ravages of i l ­lness, the colony ended i n 1 777, and those who could f led to the north .

Three s ign i f icant M i norcan foods are dat i l peppers (say DATt le), p i lau (say PERlo in the northern part of the state, PEEl ow everywhere e lse in the state), and Fromajard is pastries (say FROmaZHARd is) .

The M i norcan colon ists brought dat i l peppers wi th them from the Mediterranean as a mai nstay of the cu l tu re's cook­ing . The smal l , g reen-orange p lants appear harm less but have been cal led "bott led hel l " by the u n i n i t i ated who charge i nto dat i l pepper j e l ly and dat i l pepper re l i sh . No M i norcan stock bases are complete without th is seaso n i n g . " H eaven ly tor­ture," as it is also cal led, is so necessary to M i norcan rec i pes and g rown by many area cooks in the i r own backyards. I t 's im­possi b le to i mag i ne any restaurant i n town that doesn't use this seaso n i n g in its rec i pes.

Pi lau beg ins with a seasoned r ice base . Ch icken or shr imp pi lau are among several common vari et ies, but t here have been t i mes when, if a certa in k ind of meat was not avai lable, the dish wou l d be prepared with speckled butter beans in ­stead. Start by making a th ick " m u l c h " paste by cooking down dat i l peppers, on ions, tomatoes, green peppers, and other seaso n i n gs i n a cast- i ron pot unt i l the m ixture is dark in color, a lmost burnt . Then add your choice of meat , r ice and water. S i mmer. The more "seasoned" the i ron pot is, the better the f lavor. You can "cure" a new sk i l l et with o i l and vegetab le tri m m i ngs by cooki ng unt i l food no longer st icks or turns b lack.

Fromajard is pastries are stu ffed with cheese and baked for Easter Eve fest ival celebrat ions. In the 1 770s, you ng men wou ld go caro l i ng from house to house, pra is ing home­owners who served them the cakes and condem n i ng t hose who d i d n ' t . Today the cakes are cons idered a t rad i t i onal M i norcan breakfast.

The ori g i na l N ew Smyrna sett lement may not have s u r­vived , but thanks to the sp i r it of se l f-suff ic i ency among generat ions of M i norcans. their customs remai n .

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WHERE TO GET ANSWERS ABOUT FLORIDA'S PLANT

AND ANIMAL LIFE What's okay to eat . . . What i s n 't

A n u m ber of the rec ipes i n FAMOUS FLO R I DA ! CRACKER COOKI N ' AN D OTH ER FAVORITES cal l for ingred ients t hat are protected by state l aw. That means you may not neces­sari ly be ab le to prepare some of them you rself, such as a l l i gator, but you can certai n l y enjoy them i n the restaurants they're served i n . You ' l l be the wiser for knowing how to f ix them .

Certai n other native i ng red ients are avai lable to you, but you wi l l need to be aware of laws and rest r ict ions that may apply regard i n g season dates and al lowable q uantit ies. The fo l lowing state agencies wi l l g lad ly answer your quest ions and send he lpfu l material for you r own reference.

Department of Natural Resources (al so has i nformation on state parks, recreation , and camping fac i l i t ies)

Crown B u i l d i n g , Room 620 202 Blount Street Tal lahassee, FL 32301

Department of Agricu lture and Consumer Services The Capitol Tal l ahassee, FL 32301

Game and Fresh Water Fish Commission Farris Bryant Bu i ld i ng 620 S. Mer id ien Street Tal lahassee, FL 32301

School of Forest Resources and Conservation Un ivers ity of F lorida Gai nesv i l le , FL 3261 1

The University of Miami Marine Lab and Sea World i n Orlando are two other i m portant educat ional resou rces for i n format ion on al l forms of marine l i fe.

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FLORIDA FESTIVALS-CRACKER,

PIONEER, FOOD SPECIALnES, SEAFOOD, FAIRS

Th is i s a sel ected l i st i n g of events that you ' l l enjoy for the i r foc us on Flor ida reg i onal foods and h i storic trad i t ions. For detai ls , contact the Chamber of Commerce in the named com m u n i t ies. Be sure to check i f the act ivity hasn't been resc hedu led to a d i fferent month .

January

Col l ier Cou nty Fair, Naples South Flor ida Fai r, West Pal m Beach Manatee County Fai r, Palmetto Southwest F lor ida Fair, Fort Myers Si lver Sai l f ish Derby of the Palm Beaches, West Pal m Beach Annual Homestead Rodeo, Homestead

February

Florida State Fair, Tampa H i g h lands Cou nty Fai r, Sebri n g Florida C i trus Fest iva l , Winter Haven South Dade Cou nty Fai r, Homestead Southeastern Youth Fai r, Ocala St. Luc ie Cou nty Fair, Fort Pierce Pasco Cou nty Fair, Dade City Hendry Cou nty Fai r, C lewiston Kiss i mmee Val l ey Fai r and Livestock Show, Kiss i m mee DeSoto Cou nty Fai r, Arcad i a Central F lor ida Fai r, Orlando H i l l sborough Cou nty Fai r and Strawberry Festival , P l ant City Everg lades C i ty F ishermen's Seafood Fest i val Sem i no le Tri bal Fai r, Ho l lywood Grant Seafood Fest iva l , Grant (Mel bou rne) Heart of Flor ida Folk Fest ival , Dade City Swamp Cabbage Fest iva l , LaBel le S i l ver Spurs Rodeo, K iss i mmee

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March

Citrus County Fai r, I nverness Mart i n Cou nty Fai r, Stuart P i nel las County Fai r, Largo Sarasota Cou nty Fai r, Sarasota Lake Cou nty Fai r and Flower Show, Eustis Suwan nee R iver Fai r and Livestock Show, Suwannee Cou nty,

Ch ief land Dade County Youth Fai r, M iam i Pol k Cou nty Youth Fai r , Bartow Baker County Fai r, MacClenny H ernando Cou nty Fai r, Brooksvi l l e Putnam Cou nty Fai r, Palatka P ioneer Park Days, Zolfo Spr ings Orange B lossom Fest iva l , Davie Chalo N i tka (Bass) Fest ival and Rodeo, Moo re Haven Seafood Fest i va l , M arathon Wi nter Harvest, Gou lds Carnaval M iam i , L itt le Havana, M iami Annual Bon ita Spri ngs Fest ival (Tomato-Snook Festival),

Bon ita Spr ings Speckled Perch Fest ival , Okeechobee With lacoochee Bac kwater J amboree, Dunne l lon F lag ler Cou nty Cracker Day, Bunne l l A l l -F lor ida Champ ionsh ip Rodeo, Arcad ia

Apri l

Bradford County Fai r, Starke St. Johns R iver Catf ish Fest i va l , Crescent C i ty Largo Cracker S u pper, Largo Bou nty of the Sea Seafood Fest iva l , M iam i B lack Gold J u b i l ee (Everg lades harvest), Be l l e G l ade State Beef Cook-Off , N ap les I nd i an R iver Fest ival , T i tusvi l l e Down Home Days, De land D i strict Rodeo, Pal atka I s land Open F ish ing Derby, San i be l Is land

May

Boom Town Days, Dun ne l lon Flor ida Fol k Fest iva l , Wh i te Spr ings

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Zel l wood Sweet Corn Fest iva l , Zel l wood Ann ual F ish i n g Tou rnament, St. August i n e Summer F ish ing Contest, West Pal m Beach Summer F ish i ng To urnament, Pom pano Beach Rodeo Week, J asper Pompano Beach F ish ing Rodeo, Pom pano Beach Marathon Dol p h i n Sc ram ble , Marathon Greater Daytona Beach Area Stri k ing F ish Tournament ,

Daytona Beach

J une

Sea Turt le Watch , Jensen Beach Cross and Sword (state p lay), St. August i n e Pan hand le Watermelon Fest iva l , C h i p ley Jefferson Cou nty Watermelon Fest iva l , Mont ice l l o Ch ief land Watermelon Fest iva l , Ch ief land Charlotte H arbor F ishi ng Tournament, Port Charlotte I nternat iona l Bonef ish Tou rnament, M arathon Pensacola Shark Rodeo, Pensaco la

July

Everg lades Outdoor M u s i c Fest iva l , M i ami A l l -F lor ida Cham p ionsh i p Rodeo, Arcad i a Si lver Spurs Rodeo, K iss i m mee Dest i n Shark Tou rnament , Dest i n Marathon Jaycees Shark Tou rnament, M arathon Greater J ac ksonvi l l e K ing Mackerel Tou rnament ,

Jacksonv i l l e

August

Wausau Fun Day and Possum Fest ival , Wausau Fort Walton BeachlDest i n Open B i l l f i sh Tou rnament ,

Fort Wal ton Beach Pensacola Lad ies' B i l l f i sh Tournament, Pensaco la Captai n 's B i l l f i sh i ng Tou rnament, Panama City Beach Gu l f Coast M asters I nv i tat ional B i l l f ish Tou rnament ,

Pensacola Annual F ishathon , St . Petersburg

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September

I n ternat i onal Worm Fidd l i ng Contest , Carywi l l e Panacea B l ue Crab Fest iva l , Panacea P ioneer Days, Eng lewood P ioneer Flor ida Fest ival , Dade City Seafood Fest ival , Pen sacola Creek I nd ian Pow-Wow, Pensacola Bel l view J u nct ion Western Round-Up, Pen saco la Offsh ore Sportf ish i n g Tou rnament, Sebast ian I n let Catt lemen's Labor Day Rodeo, Okeechobee O pen Spearf ish ing To urnament , Panama City Marl borough B i l l f i s h i n g Tournament, Dest i n M i rac le Stri p K ing Mackerel Tournament, Panama City

October

Northeast Flor ida Fai r, Cal lahan Pensacola I nterstate Fair , Pensaco la G reater Jacksonvi l l e Fair, Jac ksonvi l l e Suwann ee Cou nty Fai r, Live Oak Jac kson Cou nty Fai r, Mariann a G reater Hol mes Cou nty Fai r, Bon i fay Bay Cou nty Fai r, Panama City O kaloosa Cou nty Fa i r, Fort Walton Beach N orth Flor ida Fai r , Tal lahassee Cou ntry J u b i l ee , Largo Worl d 's C h i c ke n P l u c ki n ' Champi onsh i p , Spri ng H i l l Dest i n Seafood Fest ival , Dest i n Oak H i l l Seafood Fest ival , Oak H i l l Cracker Day, St. August ine F l orida Forest Fest iva l , Perry Ratt lesnake Fe stival/I nternat i o nal Gopher Race,

San Anto n i o Seafood Fest ival , Cedar Key Boggy Bayou M u l l et Fest ival , N i cevi l l e Brig hton F ie ld Days, Br ig hton Sem i no le Reservat i on P ioneer Days Fol k Fest iva l , O rlando Czechoslovakian I ndependence Day, Masary ktown H i span i c Heritage Fest ival , Dade Co u nty, M i am i J eanie Aud i t ions and Bal l , Wh ite Spri ngs Dest i n October F ish i ng Rodeo, Dest i n Swam p Buggy Races, Naples Seafood Fest ival , Panama City Beach

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November

Col u m b i a Cou nty Fai r, lake C i ty Alachua Cou nty Fai r, Gai nesv i l l e Vol us ia Cou nty Fair and Youth Show, Deland Broward Cou n ty Fai r, Ho l l ywood Florida Seafood Fest i va l , Apalac h icola Seafood Fest ival , M ade i ra Beach The Harvest, M iami Wi nter F ish i n g Contest, West Pa l m Beach Wi nter F ish i ng Tournament, Pom pano Beach Champ i on s h i p Rodeo, Dav ie

December

December on the Farm , Tal lahassee M iccosu kee Tri be's A n n ual I nd ian Art Fest ival , M i ami Stuart Sai l f i sh C lub L ight Tackle Tou rnament, Stu art F ish i n g Bowl , West Pal m Beach

- NOTES -

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REFERENCES

If you'd l i ke to delve deeper into Florida's t rad it ional foodways, h istory, and places where you can f ind these dishes, the fol lowing l ist of books and pamphlets wi l l be helpful . Some of the t itles may be out of pr int , but your local publ ic l ibrary or un iversity l i brary may have them or may be able to ar­range an i nter- l ibrary loan. Many are st i l l avai lable at bookstores and g i ft shops. We've l isted them alphabet ically by t it le, for you r conven ience, with avai lable in formation about the publ isher. Tit les shown in BOLDFACE

CAPITAL LETTERS are the ones we feel are of greatest interest.

American Cooking: Southern Style (1968), by Eugene Walter. Time-Life Books, New York. Florida's special t ies in th is volume inc lude hearts of palm, fruits and shel l f ish . 208 pp., hardcover. Apalachicola Seafood Recipes, by Mr. Sherlock. Printed by Val ley Litho, Old Town, FL. 55 pp. , paper. Aunt Nancy's Suwannee Country Cooking (1971) , by Nancy Morgan. White Springs, FL. 32 pp. , paper. Bay Leaves (1975), by the J u n ior Service League of Panama City Inc . , Panama City, FL. N otes on early days, tradit ional and contemporary recipes. 352 pp. , spiral. The Beach Cookbook (1976), by Jane Hodges Hamm. Strode Publ i shers Inc . , H untsvi l le, AL. Reci pes from the Gulf of Mexico, Atlant ic and Pacif ic coasts, all in one col lection . 236 pp. , paper. Citrus Cooking (1972), by Beatrice Vaughan. Stephen G reene Press, Brattle­boro, VT. This Harvest Home cookbook is by a winter resident of Mt. Dora, FL . 32 pp., paper. CLARITA'S COCINA (1970), by Clarita Garcia. Doubleday, New York. "Great traditional recipes from a Span ish kitchen." 384 pp. , hardcover. Conch Cooking. Florida Keys Printing and Publ ish ing , Key West. Engl ish and Cuban methods of preparing foods, with informative notes about each d ish. 93 pp. , paper. Cross Creek (orig i nal copyright 1942; st i l l in pri nt), by Marjorie Kin nan Rawl­i ngs. Mockingbird Books I n c. , St. Simons Is land, GA. The Pu l itzer-Prize­winning author's narrative of l i fe in th is t i ny, backwoods town . The chapter "Our dai ly bread " vividly describes their food ways. 279 pp., paper. CROSS CREEK COOKERY (1942), by Marjorie Kinnan Rawl ings. Charles Scribner's Sons, N ew York. I l l ustrated by Robert Cam p, J r. Written in t he author's in im itable conversational narrative, just as if she were tel l i ng you i n person how each d i s h is prepared. Menus, too. 230 pp. , paper. CROSS CREEK KITCHENS, by Sal ly Morrisso n . Triad Publ ish ing Company, Gainesvi l le , FL. The author is curator at the Marjorie Kinnan Raw l ings State H istoric Site. Reci pes and narrative. Cypress Gardens Cookbook (1970), by the St. Agnes Welfare G u i ld , St. Pau l 's Episcopal Church . Wi nter Haven, FL. Starts out, even before the t it le page, with the Florida Citrus Comm ission's Waverly g rapefruit d iet. Many local food recipes. 330 pp., paper. Dock to DishIWhat To Do with a Fish: Florida Seafood Secrets (1981 ), by Eat More Fish Inc. Distributed by F & F Sales, Miami , FL. H i nts on keeping and d ressing f ish, preparat ion, and recipes, presented simply and l ightheartedly. 34 pp., paper.

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EATING IN AMERICA: A H ISTORY (1 976), by Waverley Root and R i chard de Rochemont. W i l l iam M orrow and Company I n c . , New York. Praised and panned by the critics, this is one of the most comprehensive narratives about food, both simple and gourmet, eaten in the United States. Incl udes a partially annotated bib l i ography. 512 pp. , hardcover. Eat Well in Key West (1 982), by Dan McDonald. De G usti bus G uides of Florida In c., Key West, Fl. I ndependent restaurant reviews by a former New York City restaurant manager and travel escort for American Express. 36 pp. , paper. 1 890 Festival Cookbook (1 975), edited by Sad ie Coram Alston. Friends of M c i ntosh Inc . , M c i ntosh, Fl. Cou ntry recipes from the M c i ntosh area (Marion County). 1 34 pp. , paper. FLORIDA RECI PES: 300 YEARS OF GOOD EATI NG (1 972), by lowis Carlton. Each chapter of regional recipes is preceded by an in formative narrative of the h istory of that part of the state and its favorite foods. 80 pp., paper. FAMOUS FLORIDA! TM RESTAURANTS & RECI P ES ( 1 981) , by Sandi Brown and Joyce laFray-Young. Specialty di shes of 50 of Florida's top restaurants, with restaurant reviews, recipes, and suggestions for day trips. 320 pp. , paper. FAMOUS FLORI DA !TM U N D ERG ROU N D G O U R M ET ( 1 98 1 ), by Barbie Baldwin. Gourmet and down-home reci pes from off-the-beaten-path restau­rants. 320 pp. , paper. FAMOUS FLORIDA ! T H E U N D ERWATER GOU RMET (1 983), by J oyce La Fray­You ng, Susan Shepard and Laura De Salvo. Rec i pes from 90 of F l orida's best seafood restaurants, with tips on preparation and buying fresh seafood. 320 pp., paper. THE FLO R I DA B I CENTEN NIAL TRAIL: A H ERITAGE R EVISITED (1 976), by the Bicentenn ial Commission of F l orida in cooperation with the F lorida Department of Com merce. Hi storical sketches of both famous and lesser­known land marks, state museums and h istoric towns, with a p U l l-out map locating each site along the trai l .. 1 34 pp. , paper. FLORIDA COWMAN: A H ISTORY OF F LO R I DA CATTLE RAISING (1 976), by J oe A. Akerman, Jr. Florida Cattleman's Association, Kissimmee, FL. Lots of sol id hi story, i nterv iews with old-timers, and anecdotes. I l lustrated. Extensive b ib l iography. 286 pp. , hardcover. FLORIDA FOLK FESTIVAL SOUVEN I R PROG RAMS (1 980-1 983). Fl orida Folk Life Prog ram, White Springs, Fl. In addition to the performance schedu le, includes i n teresti ng and informative n otes by professi onal folklorists on food ways from selected reg i ons featured each year. Paper. THE FLO R I DA H ERITAGE COOKBOOK/BICENTEN N IAL EDITION (1 976), by Marina Polvay and Mari lyn Fel lman. Florida Consu ltation and Management Inc. , Mi ami, Fl. Presents the state's "rich and fasc inat ing food heritage" with readable h i storical narrative at the beg i nning of each chapter. Gl ossary of fish, fruit and vegetables, with several col or ph otos. 1 60 pp. , paper. Florida Keys Cooking (1 980), by Patricia Artman. Key West , Fl. Reci pes. 24 pp., paper. Florida Seafood: Basics and Beyond, by the Division of Mari ne Resources, Department of Natural Resources, Harmon Shields, Executive Director. H ow to clean fish, di fferent cooking methods, notes, and reci pes for selected Florida species. 32 pp. , paper. Florida's Favorite Seafoods (1 960), by the F l orida Board of Conservati on, Ran­dolph Hodges, Director. Peninsular Publ ishing Company, Tal lahassee, Fl. 63 pp. , paper. Florida's Good Eating: Typical Cooking with a Touch of History ( 1 978), by Blanche Mercer Feari ngton. De land, Fl. I l l ustrations of h i storic sites by Evie Salter. Some recipes have h istoric i n trod uctions. 252 pp. , paper.

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F LO R I DA'S VAN ISHING W I L DLIFE (1 982), by Laurel Com e l l a Hendry , Thomas M. Goodwi n , and Ronald F. Labisky. F lorida Cooperative Extension Service in cooperat ion with other agencies, U n iversity of Florida, Gainesvi l le , FL. Sum maries of the protected status of 29 species of w i l d l i fe as of 1 982; their l i fe h istory, habi tat and di stribut ion, reasons for decl ine, and protective meas ures. 69 p p . , paper. Food Favorites of St. Augustine (1 973), by Joan Adams Wickham. C.F. Hamblen Inc., St. Augustine, FL. Spanish, Minorcan, Engl ish, and American recipes, presented in a format based on Jean Gordon's 1 958 Rose Recipes: Customs, Facts and Fancies. Chronology of dates and some of the most readable historical notes precede recipes. 1 88 pp., hardcover. T H E GASPARI LLA COOKBOOK (196 1 ), by t h e J u n i or Leag ue of Tampa. Tampa, FL. I l l ustrat i ons by Lamar Sparkman . 326 pp., hardcover. GOODFOOD: THE ADVENTUROUS EATER'S G U I DE TO R ESTAURANTS

SERV I N G AMERICA'S BEST REGIONAL SPECIALTIES (1 983), by Jane and M i chael Stern . A l fred A. Knopf I n c., New York. Written by the authors of Roadfood, a "survival g u ide for highway travelers." The Sterns have been popu lariz i n g their d iscoveries on National Publ ic Rad io's program, "Al l Th i n g s Cons idered . " The character of reg ional cooking, as found in the na­t ion 's restaurants, is presented by reg ion, with maps, organ ized into categories by type o f restaurant and type of specialty, starri ng t h e authors' top pi cks. 460 pp., paper. How to Smoke Seafood, Florida Cracker Style (1 971), by Ted Dah l en. Types of smokers, prepar i n g f i s h , types of wood, how much heat, f lavori ng/ season i ng/smok i n g , rec i pes. JANE N I CKERSON'S F LORI DA COO KBOOK (1 973), by Jane N ic kerso n . U n iversity of Florida Press, Gai nesv i l le, F L . As t h e int roduction states, " Florida is a good cook's d ream come true, w here anyone fasci nated with the kitchen art can f ind an abun dance of i n g redients without g o i ng t o market." I n c l udes a l ist of lesser known Florida fruits and vegetables. 204 p p . , hardcover. Louise Lamme's Florida Cook Book (1 968), by Louise Lamme. Star Press, Boynton Beach, FL. Both "Old Timey" and modern Florida d i shes, incl uding Sem inole I ndian rec i pes and fresh ratt les nake recipes. Narrative describes recipes and h i story. 68 pp., paper. Louise Lamme's Florida Seafood Cook Book (1973), by Louise Lamme. Star Publ ishing Company, Boynton Beach, FL. How to prepare seafood recipes and approp riate side d i shes such as h ushpuppies and g rits. 48 pp., paper. Old Customs of Pensacola and Favorite Recipes of the Times (1 974). H i storic Pensacola Preservat ion Society, Pensacola, FL. An out l ine of the city's best­loved fol k lore. Paper. Oranges (1 967), by John McPhee. Farrar, Straus & G i roux, New York. Art icles that ori g i nal ly appeared i n The New Yorker magazine. 1 49 pp. , hardcover. PALM BEACH ENTERTAINS (1 976), by the Junior League of the Pal m Beaches I n c . Coward, McCann & Geoghegan I nc. Part I is a 68-page h i story of Palm Beach, as entertain i ng as the recipes that fol low. 241 pp., hardcover. THE PIONEER COOK IN SOUTH EAST FLORI DA (1 975), by Donald Walter Curl. Boca Raton H i storical Society, Boca Raton, FL. With archive-style pen and ink etchi ngs. This is a m ust-read social h istory, with h i storic recipes, descri ptions of fruits found i n southeast Florida yards today, and contem­porary reci pes. 70 pp., paper.

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St. Augustine Cookery (1 965), by the Flagler Hospital Auxil iary. Flagler

Hospital, St. Augustine, FL. Recipes handed down by Span ish, French,

Engl ish and American settlers. 20 pp., paper.

Seafood Adventures from the Gulf and South Atlantic, by the G u l f and South

Atlantic Fisheries Development Foundation Inc., Tampa, FL. Nutrit ional

featu res, purchasing, cleaning and dressing, basic and special cooking

methods, storage of seafood . Short description of selected fish, with recipes.

72 pp., paper.

South Florida Cookery: Unique Recipes from the Tropics and Elsewhere

(1 964), by Alex D. Hawkes. Wake Brooks House, Coral Gables, FL. 224 pp.,

handmade hardcover.

Spanish and Minorcan Recipes from Historic Old 51. Augustine (1 940s), by

Mary Lee Cannon. I ncl udes thumbnai l history of North Aviles Street by K.S.

Lawson, and story of the M inorcans, by E.W. Lawson.

THE TRAVELS OF WILLIAM BARTRAM (orig inally publ ished i n 1 791 ; 1 980

reprint), by Wi l l iam Bartram. Latest printing avai lable from Peregrine Smith,

Layton, UT. One of the earliest start ing points for Florida's recorded history in

the English language. Written by a botanist i n an eloquent style that has almost disappeared today. The portrait of l ife and cuisine in those t imes

would be incomparable were it not for the images that Samuel Coleridge

Taylor drew from for several of his epic poems. 332 pages, paper.

- N OTES-

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INDEX

A l l igator Gator B u rger (Gator Gr i l l ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261

Appet izers Clam-Stuffed M u shrooms (The Crab Trap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Smoked Fish Dip (Half Shel l Raw Bar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 239 Smoked Fish Spread (Ted Peters Famous

Smoked Fish) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 64 Smoked Mu l let S pread (Buttonwood Bar B-O) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 269 Swamp Cabbage Ambrosia (Carl Al len's

H i st orical Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 07 Beef

American Sauerbraten (The Chattaway) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 49 Beef Pi nwhee l s (Suncrest Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 92 Bistec Empanizado Mi/anesa (La Teresita) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 31 Carne A sada Mechada/Pot Roast (Malaga) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Country Fried Steak (Buddy Freddys) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 93 Enc h i l adas (Acapulco Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 4 Pa/omilla Steak (La Teresita) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 30 Picadilfo/Lat in Sloppy Joes (Malaga) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 Pot Roast (Malaga) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Steak a la David (Latam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 22 Stuffed Cabbage (Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Tenderloin Tips Sa/teados (Latam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 21

Beverage Sang ria (Malaga) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 2

B reads Crackl i n ' Corn Bread (Al len 's H i stori cal Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 02 Hu shpu ppies (The Catf ish Place) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 88 I ndian Fried Pumpkin Bread (Miccosukee

Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 224 I nd ian Fry Bread (M iccosukee Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 223 Soy G rits for Balanced Protein Bread (The Old

Spanish Sugar M i l l ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 76 Catfish

Catfish (The Cat f i s h Place) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 87 Cross Creek Special/Catfish, Frog Legs, Cooter

(The Yearl ing) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Cereal

Granola Cereal (The Old Span ish Su gar M i l l ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 75

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Ch icken Baked Chicken (La Esq u i na de Tejas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Ch icken and Yel low R ice (Mama Lo's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 63 Chicken Livers (Hampton's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 68 Chicken or Pork in Mole Sauce (Acapu lco Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 6 Chi cken Papri kash (Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 86 Fried Chi cken (Malaga) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Homemade Chicken and Dumpl ings (Buddy Freddys) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 94 Mama's Fancy Rice and Ch icken (Hopkins

Board ing House) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 7 Mo/e de Gallina a Puerco/Chicken o r Pork

in Mole Sauce (Acapu lco Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 6 Mom's Chicken and Dumpl ings (Robert's Dock) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 58 Pallo A sado/Baked Chicken (La Esq u i na de Tejas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Pallo Frito/Fried Chicken (Malaga) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Southern Fried Ch icken (Doe-AI Country Cooki n ' ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 61

C h i l i Meatless C h i l i (The Spiral) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 5

Conch Conch Salad (Pau l 's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 45 Conch Fritters (Half Shel l Raw Bar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 238 Conch Fritters (Mangrove Mama's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 Conch Steak (Mangrove Mama's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229

Cooter (Soft-Shel led Turt le) Cross Creek Specia l/Catf ish , Frog Leg s, Cooter

(The Year l i ng) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75 Crepes

Broccol i Crepes (Vi lano Seafood Shack) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 53 Cuban , Span ish and Mexican

Bistec Empanizado Mi/anesa (La Teresita) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3 1 Carne Asada Mechada/Pot Roast (Malaga) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 208 Cuban Sandwich (Si lver R ing Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 38 Enchi ladas (Acapu l co Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ' . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 4 Flan (La Esq u i n a de Tejas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204 Garbanzo Bean Soup (Latam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 20 Guacamole Salad (Acapu lco Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 3 Mojo Criollo/Creole Sauce (Malaga) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 1 Mojo de Ajo/Garl ic Sauce (Latam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 26 Mo/e de Gallina a Puerco/Chicken or Pork in

Mo le Sauce (Acapu lco Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 6 Moros/M i xed Black Beans (La Esquina d e Tejas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202 Pa/omilla Steak (La Teresita) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 30 Picadillo/Lat i n Sloppy J oes (Malaga) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 207 P/atanos Maduros/Sweet Bananas (La Esq u i n a

de Tejas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Pallo A sado/Baked Chicken (La Esqu ina de Tejas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 201 Pallo Frito/Fried Chicken (Malaga) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 209 Quick Garbanzo Bean Soup (La Teresita) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 29 Refried Beans (Acapu Ico Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 7 Sang ria (Malaga) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 2 Yuca can Mojo de Ajo/Yuca with Garl ic Sauce

(Latam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 26

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Desserts Applesauce (Oviedo I n n) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 82

Bread Pudding wi th Lemon Sauce (Oviedo I n n ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 83

Buttonwood Carrot Cake (Buttonwood Bar B-O) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 270

Flan (La Esq u i na de Tejas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 204

M ichael 's Bananas (Mangrove Mama's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 233

Pies

Banana Cream Pie (Ye Tower Lunch) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 97

Butterscotch Cream Pie (Ye Tower Lunch) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 9 7

Choco late P i e (J u l i a Mae's Town- Inn) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 28

Choco late Cream Pie (Ye Tower Lunch) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 97

Coconut Pie (Fl ora and E l la's Restau rant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 256

Coconut Cream Pie (Ye Tower Lunch) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 9 7

Cowboy's Pi neapp le P i e (S.w. Cowboy's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4 5

El la's Pecan Pie (Flora a n d E l la's Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 258

Florida Orange Pie (Al len's H i storical Cafe) . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . 108

Key Lime Pie (Half Shel l Raw Bar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240

Lemon Chi ffon Pie (Hopkins Board ing House) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 9

Lemon Meringue Pie (Flora and El la's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 255

Lucy's Banana Pie (Hampton's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 7 1

Mango-Banana Pie (The Spiral) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 9

Meringue for Coconut and Lemon Pies (Flora and El la's Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 257

Peanut Butter Pie (Suncrest Restau rant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 94 Sweet Potato P ie (Allen ' s H i storical Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 06

Sour Cream Cake (Flora and E l la's Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 254

Spiced Apples (Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90

Strawberry Shortcake (Buddy Freddys) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 97

Dressi ngs/Stuff ings Corn bread Dressi ng (The Pri m rose I n n) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 72

Crab Meat Dressi ng (Dai nty Del) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 2

Eggs and Omelets Avocado-Bacon-Swiss Cheese Omelet

(Pepe's Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 244

Span ish Omelet (Coffee Cup) . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 3

Frog Legs Cross Creek Special/Catf ish , Frog Legs, Cooter

(The Yearl i ng) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75

Gri l led Frog Legs (Waku l l a Spri ngs Lodge) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Fruits and Vegetables Applesauce (Oviedo I n n) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 82

Baked Beans (Hampton's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 69 Baked Beans for Old Navy Breakfast

(Jack's Skyway) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 53

Bev's Cabbage (The Spiral) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 8

Broccol i Crepes (Vi lano Seafood Shack) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 5 3

Cole S law (The Catf ish Place) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 89

Fresh Col lard G reens (State Farmers Market Restau rant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 265

Fresh Zucc h i n i and Tomatoes (Buddy Freddys) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 95

Fried Citrons (Al len's H i storical Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 05

Fried Su mmer Squash Casserole (Doe·AI Country Cooki n ') . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 60

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Hoppingjohn (Mama Lo's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 66

Moros/M i xed Black Beans (La Esqu ina de Tejas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 202

Moussaka (The Spiral) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 6

Okra a n d Tomatoes (State Farmers Market Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 264

Onion R ings with Sesame Seeds (Mangrove Mama's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232

Pickled Beets (Hampton's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 70

Platanos Maduros/Sweet Bananas (La Esquina de Tejas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203

Refried Beans (Acapu lco Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 7

Rice·Broccoli-Cheese Casserole (Su ncrest Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 93

Rutabaga Chu n ks (Coffee Cup) . . . . . . . . , " . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 7

Sauerkraut (Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85

Scal loped Eggplant (Buddy Freddys) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 96

Scal loped Eggplant (The Pri mrose I n n) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 71

Spiced Appl es (Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90

String Beans (Mama Lo's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 64

Stuffed Cabbage (Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 88 Swamp Cabbage (Al len's H istorical Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 04

Swamp Cabbage (Flora and El la's Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 251 Swamp Cabbage Ambrosia (Al len's H i storical Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 07

Swamp Cabbage Salad (Flora and El la's Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252

Swamp Cabbage with Potatoes (Flora and El la's Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253

Whole Bro i led Tomatoes (Waku l la Springs Lodge) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32

Yuca con Mojo de Ajo/Yuca with Garl ic Sauce (Latam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 26

Hearts of Palm See Swamp Cabbage

H ushpu ppies H u sh pu ppies (The Catf ish Place) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . -

. . . . . . . . . 1 88

Key Lime Key Lime Pie (Half Shell Raw Bar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 240

Moussaka (The Spiral) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 6

Pork Baked Ham and Fruit Sauce (Oviedo I n n) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 81

Mole de Gallina 0 Puerco/Chicken or Pork in Mole Sauce (Acapu lco Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 6

Smothered Pork Chops (Mama Cole's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 23

Potatoes and Sweet Potatoes Caraway Baked Potato (The Old Span ish Sugar M i l l) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 77

Dixie Fries (Mangrove Mama's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 231

Mel 's French Fries (Mel 's Hot Dogs) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 35 Old-Fashioned Sweet Potatoes (Mama Lo's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 65

Rice Caj u n Rice (Doe-AI Country Cookin' ) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 58

Salads Cole Slaw (The Catf ish Place) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 89 Conch Salad (Pau l 's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 145

Garden Salad (Mama Lo's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

Guacamole Salad (Acapu lco Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 3

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Hearts of Palm Salad (Johnson's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80

Horat ik i Salata (Pau l 's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 42

Swamp Cabbage Salad (Flora and El la's Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252

Very Good Fru i t Salad (Hopkins Boarding House) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 8

Salad Dressings Homemade Dressing (Mama Lo's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 67

Honey French Dressi n g (Robert's Dock) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 60

House Dressi n g (Pepe's Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 245

Sandwiches Cuban Sandwich (Si lver Ring Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 38

Gator Burger (Gator G ri l l) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 261 Orig ina l Ind ian B u rger (M iccosukee Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 225

Real C hicago·Style Hot Dog (Mel 's Dogs) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 34

Sauces Barbecue Sauce (The Chattaway) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 48

Span ish Sauce for Am berjack (Coffee Cup) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Fruit Sauce for Baked Ham (Oviedo I nn) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 81

Huevos Rancheros Sauce (Pepe's Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 246

Lemon Sauce for Bread Pudd ing (Oviedo I nn) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 84

Mojo Criol/o/Creole Sauce (Malaga) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 21 1

Mojo de Ajo/Garl ic Sauce for Yuca (Latam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 26

Mole Sauce for Chicken or Pork (Acapu lco Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1 6

Shrimp Sauce (O'Steen's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 49

Seafood Am berjack with Spanish Sauce (Coffee Cup) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 4

Broi led Octopus (Pau l 's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 44

Broi led Snapper or Mackerel (Dai nty Del) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 3

Catf ish (The Catfish Place) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 87

Charcoal·Broi l ed Scamp (Dainty Del) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 1

Clam·Stuffed M u sh rooms (The Crab Trap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 275

Conch Steak (Mangrove Mama's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 229

Cowboy's Broi led Snapper (S.W. Cowboy's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 44

Crabf i ngers (J ohnson's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 79

Crab I m perial (The Crab Trap) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 276

Cross Creek Special (Catfish, Frog Legs, Cooter) (The Yearl ing) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 75

Devi led Crabs (O'Steen's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 48

Dream Boat/Seafood Casserole (Parson's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 37

Gri l led Frog Legs (Waku l l a Spri ngs Lodge) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 31

Oyster Stew (J u l ia Mae's Town· lnn) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 27

Pickled Octopus (Pau l's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 43 Robert 's Seafood Casserole (Robert's Dock) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 56 Seafood a la Vasca (Latam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 24

Seafood au G ratin (Parson's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 38

Seafood Stir Fry (Pepe's Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 247

Sea Trout or G rouper in Beer Batter (Buttonwood Bar B·Q) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 272

Shrimp Charcoal·Bro i led Shri m p (Dainty Del) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0 Cowboy's Special Shr imp (S.w. Cowboy's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 43 The Shack's Shri m p and Scallop Saute

(Vi lano Seafood Shack) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 52

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Shr imp Flor idian (Wak u l l a Spri ngs Lodge) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 32 Shri m p in Garl ic Sauce, Malaga-Style (Malaga) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 2 1 0

Smoked M u l l et (Buttonwood B a r B-Q) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . 268 Special Snapper (Dainty Del) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 4 Squid R i n g s (Half Shel l Raw Bar) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 237

Side Dishes Applesauce (Oviedo I n n) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 82 Clam-St uffed M us h rooms (The Crab Trap) . . . . . . . . _ . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . 275 Cole S l aw (The Catf ish Pl ace) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 89 Conch Fritters (Half Shel l Raw Bar) . . . . . . . . _ . . _ . . . . . _ . . _ . . . . . . . . . 238 Conch Fritters (Mang rove Mama's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 230 H u s h p u ppies (The Catf ish Place) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 88 Nassau G rits (Coffee Cup) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 6 Onion R i n g s w i t h Sesame Seeds

(Man g rove Mama's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 232 Platanos Maduros/Sweet Bananas

(La Esqu i na de Tejas) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 203 Sauerkraut (Masaryktown H otel Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 85 Spiced Apples (Masaryktown Hotel Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 90 Swamp Cabbage Ambrosia (Al len's H i storical Cafe) . . . . . _ . . _ . . . . . . . 1 07

Soups and Chowders Fisherman's Chowder (Jack's Skyway) . . . . . . . _ . . _ . . _ . . _ . . _ . . . . . . . 1 54 Garbanzo Bean Soup (Latam) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 20 New E n g l an d Corn Chowder (Oviedo I n n) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 80 Quick Garbanzo Bean Soup (La Teresita) . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 29 Turtle Soup (A l len's H istorical Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 0 1 Watermelon Sou p (Al len's H i storical Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 03

Soy Grits Soy Grits for Balanced Protein Bread

(The O l d Span i s h Sugar M i l l) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 76 Swamp Cabbage

Hearts of Pal m Salad (J oh nson 's) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 80 Swamp Cabbage (Al len's H istorical Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 04 Swamp Cabbage (Flora and El la's Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . _ . . . . . . . . 251 Swamp Cabbage- Ambrosia (Al len's H istorical Cafe) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 1 07 Swamp Cabbage Salad (Flora and El la's Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 252 Swamp Cabbage w i t h Potatoes (Fl ora and

El la's Restaurant) . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 253 Vegetables

See Fruits and Vegetables

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Back on Those Back Roads Again

© 1982 Don Grooml

uft lummsr {1982} / drovs 7,000 mi/sl scroll Amsrics to find out if if'l Itill thsrs, snd in CS$S you'rs infsrsftsd, if i$,

Choru$:

Well I'm travelin' down the back roads, not goin' anywhere,

Wavin' at the counf1y folks on the front porch in their chair, That littte boy with the fishin' pole don't know that I'd exchange

Everything I've got right now to be him once ClgClin.

When I Ish New York City, went on that interstate,

That long wide ribbon of concrete was more than I could take. So when I hit Virginia, I found a counf1y lane,

And I got back on those back roads again.

From the hills of North Carolina to Georgia's bottom land

I never drove on one paved road or went through one big town. Just red clav banks and counf1y shacks and a swimming hole now

and then 'Cause I'm back on those back roads a9ain.

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Went from Georgia down to Aorida 'cause the road that I was on

Didn't know where I was goin', wouldn't have cared if it had known. You can keep your crowded cities, just give me the land And put me on those back roads again.

I said I'm travelin' down the back roads, not goin' anywhere, Wavin' at the country folks on the front porch in their chair,

That little boy with the fishin' pole don't know that I'd exchange Evetything I've got right now to be him once again. Set me down on a river bank; put a cane pole in my hand,

I'm back on those back roads again. I said I'm back on those back roads again.

(Don Groomg ig , profsggor of bro,;cading ,f fh, UnivlflHy of Rori;, in G,ineNi/le. A ChlfokBB In;i,n, he i$ , "gul" ,nflf­flinlf ,f the ,nnUlI Rori;, Folk Fediv,l.j

303

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- NOTES -

Page 321: Florida Cracker Cookin

ORDER FORM Send LaFRAY PUBLISH I NG COMPANY to: P. O . Box 76400, St. Petersbu rg , FL 33734

Phone: (81 3) 821 -3233

__ copies of Cracker Cookin' ™ and Other $ ___ _ Favorites @ $9.95 each

__ copies of The Underwater GourmefTM $ ___ _ The Great Seafood Book @ $9.95 each

_ _ copies of Famous Florida fTM $ ___ _ Restaurants & Recipes @ $9.95 each Add postage and hand l i ng @ $2.00 each $ ___ _ Fl orida res idents add 5% sales tax @ $ ___ _ $.50 each

TOT AL ENCLOSED $ __ _ Send LaFRAY PU B LISH I N G CO M PANY to: P. O. Box 76400, St. Petersburg , FL 33734

Phone: (81 3) 821 -3233

__ copies of Cracker Cookin' ™ and Other $ ___ _ Favorites @ $9.95 each

__ copies of The Underwater Gourmet™ $ ___ _ The Great Seafood Book @ $9.95 each

__ copies of Famous Florida fTM $ ___ _ Restaurants & Recipes @ $9.95 each Add postage and hand l i ng @ $2.00 each $ ___ _ Florida res idents add 5 % sales tax @ $ ___ _ $.50 each

TOTAL ENCLOSED $ __ _ Send LaFRAY PUBLIS H I N G CO M PANY to: P. O. Box 76400, st. Petersbu rg , FL 33734

Phone: (81 3) 821 -3233

__ copies of Cracker Cookin' ™ and Other $ ___ _ Favorites @ $9.95 each

_ _ copies of The Underwater Gourmet™ $ ___ _ The Great Seafood Book @ $9.95 each

__ copies of Famous Florida fTM $ ___ _ Restaurants & Recipes @ $9.95 each Add postage and hand l i ng @ $2.00 each $ ___ _ Florida res idents add 5% sales tax @ $ ___ _ $.50 each

TOT AL ENCLOSED $ ___ _ 305

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A FOOD-TRAVEL-AND HISTORY­LOVER'S DELIGHT

What are some of the th i ngs Florida is most famo us for? Al l i gators , oranges, I nd ians , Span i sh and Cu ban heri tage, conch, and pal m trees !

FAM OUS FLO R I DNM ! CRACKER COOKI N ' A N D OTH E R FAVOR ITES is f i l led w i t h these pop u lar sym bols of t h e Sun­sh ine State. Here i n one vo l ume are vig nettes of lon g-estab­l i shed back-roads eateries where Cracker favorites are served, toget her with instruct ions on how to prepare these d ishes yourse l f .

As a combi nat ion coo kbook/tour gu ide, CRACKER COOKI N ' i s a n easy-to-use book Ponce d e Leon h i mself wou l d ask for i f he were here today.

Cook up a storm with these 1 50 easy-to-prepare down-home rec ipes for trad i t ional Flor ida Cracker foods, Ind ian and H i s­pan ic eth n i c d i shes, So uthern home cooki n ' , and other favorites " im ported" by restaurant owners who h ave moved to Florida from other states.

You ' l l enjoy popular choices such as Catfish • Swamp Cab­bage • Hushpuppies • Conch Fritters • Hoppingjohn • Frog Legs • Deviled Crabs • Turtle Soup • Indian Fry Bread • Oyster Stew • Key Lime Pie • Strawberry Shortcake • Garbanzo Bean Soup • Platanos Maduros (Plantains) • Peanut Butter Pie •

Spiced Apples • Chicken and Dumplings • Gator Burger •

Mango-Banana Pie and many more.

For everyone who loves s i m ply prepared good food, a l i tt le fo l k lore, and a lot of su nsh ine , FAMOUS FLO R I DA ! CRACKER COO KIN ' AND OTH ER FAVORITES i s ju st t h e book for you !

o

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