fit problems and solutions. basic construction standards a. quality 1. seams 2. seam finishes 3....
TRANSCRIPT
Basic construction standardsA. Quality
1. Seams2. Seam finishes3. Closures4. Hems5. Facings6. Sleeves/cuffs7. Collars
B. Fit and/or function1. Garment fit2. Function of apparel item
Vocabulary
Hook and Loop Tape FacingHook and Bar SnapsBound (Hem or Seam) Finish NapClipping Pinked FinishGrading HemNotching WaistbandTrimming Turned and Stitched FinishInterfacing (different weights and uses)Easing Gathering Casing CuffUnder stitching
Quality of Seam Construction
Seams in manufacturing should have at
least a ½” seam allowance AppearanceAppearance BulkBulkFinishFinish FullnessFullnessPlacementPlacement PressingPressingReinforcedReinforced Stitch Stitch
lengthlengthTensionTension ThreadThreadWidthWidth
Reducing Bulk in Seams for Proper Fit
Clip inside curve to allow seam to lie flat.Notch outside curve to eliminate bulkTrim outside corner to eliminate bulk Trim seam to eliminate bulkGrade seam to eliminate bulk, eliminate
ridge from showing on right side
Quality of Seam FinishesSeam Finishes - finish according to
fabric, design, and use of garment
AppearanceAppearance of seam finishes should be flat & smooth with no raveling
Types of Seam Finishes
UnfinishedUnfinished
PinkedPinked
Edge stitchedEdge stitched
ZigzagZigzag
Quality of Seam Finishes continued
Hand overcastHand overcastClean or Turned and StitchedClean or Turned and StitchedDouble stitchedDouble stitchedBoundBoundSergedSerged
Quality of Closures (including zippers)
Hook & Loop Tape – a "hook" side, which is piece of fabric covered with tiny plastic hooks & "loop" side, which is covered in equally tiny plastic loops
Hook & Bar – Two-piece metal fastening
Snaps – Metal fasteners
Quality of Closures (including zippers)
AppearanceAppearanceCoveringCoveringPlacementPlacementReinforcedReinforcedSpacingSpacingStitchingStitchingSuitableSuitable
Quality of Closures
ButtonsReinforcedReinforced ShankShankSizeSize SpacingSpacingStitchingStitching TypeTypeButtonholesAppearanceAppearance GrainGrainLengthLength PlacementPlacement
SpacingSpacingWidthWidth
Hems should hang parallel to floor. To hem, cut edges are folded up, folded
up again, then sewed down. Cut edges are
enclosed in cloth, so that they can't ravel
AppearanceAppearanceEaseEaseHand stitchingHand stitchingPressingPressingSeamsSeamsTopstitchingTopstitchingWidthWidth
Interfacings & Under stitching
Interfacing Interfacings can be used to:Stiffen or add body (crispness) to
fabricStrengthen a certain area of the
fabricKeep fabrics from stretching out of
shapeUnder stitching ensures that a facing
won't roll to the outside of your garment.
A Facing is the area of a garment or sewn item that turns to the inside, giving a finished appearance to what would otherwise just be a raw edge of fabric. The facing is usually interfaced to add shape to the edge of the fabric.
FacingsAppearanceAppearance - flat, smooth, not visible from outside
Bulk Bulk - seams graded, curves clipped and/or notched
Edge FinishEdge Finish - appropriate to fabric; Facing edges free from ravelling (NO RAW EDGES)
SecuringSecuring – under stitched where appropriate; tacked only at seam allowances and darts or stitch-in-the ditch method used where appropriate (as on shoulder seam)
WidthWidth - even unless pattern requires variation
SleevesAppearanceAppearanceBulkBulkEaseEaseGathersGathersPressingPressingReinforcedReinforcedSeam FinishSeam FinishSeamsSeams
Sleeves can be finished hems, cuffs, or casings
A Cuff is the lower edge of a sleeve (or pant leg) turned back to show an ornamental border Cuffs should fit comfortably around
wristsAppearanceAppearanceBulkBulkInterfacingInterfacingGrainGrainShapeShapeWidthWidth
Collars
CollarsAppearanceAppearanceBulkBulkGrainGrainInterfacingInterfacingShapeShape Under stitchingUnder stitching
Fit and/or Function
- WEARING EASE - Adequate ease for comfort
- Fitting details (neckline, armhole, waistline)
- Silhouette lines follow silhouette of body- Lengthwise grainline perpendicular to
floor; crosswise grainline parallel to floor. - Hems are parallel to the floor- Darts point to & stop short of fullest part
of area they fit- Free from strain and/or excess fullness
Fit and/or Function cont’d
- Waistbands should not bind or fit too tightly & should fall in correct position on body (waist, low rise etc.)
- Crotch should be smooth, flat, free from pulling or drawing when sitting or bending.
- Nap consists of fibers on the fabric surface that lie in one direction.