final disseration gar11348260 pgf_madmffi

The Impact of Rebranding on the UK’s Generation -Y- Consumers.

Calculating the ROI of the Ben Sherman Rebranding strategy and its effects on the behaviour of the target market.

Key words

Rebranding, Brand image, Brand equity, Brand identity, Brand perception, Generation Y, Consumer behaviour, Reinvention, Adaptation, ROI measurement.

Unit: Final Dissertation

Student: Paula Garcia Ferrer

Student ID: GAR11348260

Course: MA DMFFI

Date: 30/11/2012

MA FINAL DISSERTATION - The Impact Of Rebranding On the UK Generation Y Consumers

Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) ii

STATEMENT OF ORIGINALITY

“I declare that no portion of material in this dissertation has previously been submitted

for a degree or other academic qualification of this or any other educational institution,

and that to the best of my knowledge contains no material previously published or

written by another person except where due acknowledgement is made”

Name: Paula G. Ferrer

Signature:

Date: 30th November 2012


Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) iii

DIGITISATION CONSENT FORM

I hereby give my consent for my dissertation / report to be copied* and stored

electronically in the library.

I understand that it is University policy to lodge a copy of student theses and

dissertations in a library of the University. (See Student Zone, Regulations: ownership

of student work).

I understand that in order to protect my intellectual property rights, access is only made

available to current University of the Arts London staff and students and downloading

and printing are prohibited.

Course: MA Design Management For The Fashion Industries

Name: Paula G. Ferrer

Signature:

Date: 30th November 2012


Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) iv

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

I would like to express my sincere appreciation to my supervisor Francess Ross for her

guidance support and encouragement despite the difficulties towards the development

and completion of this study.

I would like to express my appreciation to my parents Montse and Angel, and to my

sister Mireia, who always loved and supported me.

I would like to thank all my friends, especially Gokhan Demirci and Tiziano de Mattia

who always provided me for their technical support and encouragement.

I would like to express my appreciation to all survey participants who participated in

that study and more especially to MR. O.C. and J.M. FROM Ben Sherman Ltd., who

provided fundamental and indispensable information to reach the objectives of the

study.


Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) v

ABSTRACT

Due to the need to adapt to the new preferences and behaviours of upcoming generations of consumers, brand changes have become a common practice in the fashion industry. The impending group of consumers are the so-called “Generation Y”, which despite the recession, appear to have an impressive purchasing power (Bergh and Behrer, 2011). They symbolise the commencement of a new era in which consumers and brands interact in a different ways. The reason for this is due to the consumer’s high standards and knowledge of marketing strategies, which in retrospect present a challenge for most fashion marketers to find new ways of interaction.

Taking into account the large quantities that brands spend on rebranding (Experian, 2010), marketers have to justify the reasons for which the brands investments are assigned to and control the returns expected. Despite this fact, it is generally accepted that brand sales do not only depend on brand perceptions of consumers but many various amount of factors. Thus, it is found necessary to find which strategies are successful amongst “Generation Y” consumers and to design a model to monitor the results of the investment (Kapferer, 2001).

Accordingly, this research is examining how rebranding strategies of a fashion brand impact on the perception, behaviour and performance that a specific target group (Generation Y) have of the brand, whilst analysing and studying the overall return on investment of a rebrand in terms of tangible and intangible incomes. For the purpose of this dissertation, the brand in question will be Ben Sherman.

Through the integration of two existent models, a new model was created to measure the Return on Investment of brand changes: the Consumer-based brand equity and the CRUSH Branding Model. The new model has the advantage of measuring intangibles from the consumer’s point of view, and allowing the ability to predict the tangible returns on investment of the brand whilst isolated from any external factors that could impact on sales.


Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) vi

GLOSSARY

Term Definition Location within the document

Rebranding

Process that implies the redesign and rethinking of one or more parts of the brand. (Wider definitions of the concept are found in section 2.1.1, located in the second chapter of this document.)

(All doc.)

Generation Y Millennials Gen Yers

Demographic group widely assumed to be born between 1980 and 2000. (Wider definitions of the concept are found in section 2.2.1, located in the second chapter of this document.)

(All doc.)

Return on investment

A performance measure used to evaluate the efficiency of an investment or to compare the efficiency of a number of different investments. (Wider definitions and measurement techniques regarding Rebranding strategies are found in section 2.3, located in the second chapter of this document.)

(All doc.)

Brand evolution

Changes undergone by the organisation within its logo and slogan.

p.19

Brand revolution

Changes undergone by the organisation within its logo, slogan and name of the brand.

p.19

CRUSH Branding Model

Term used in Bergh and Behrer (2011), to refer to the 5 success factors of a youth brand.

p. 23, 28, 56, 57, 70


Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) vii

Youthopia A research conducted by MTV Networks to young people in Europe which aimed to understand their values, hopes and dreams. This information led to the conception of the CRUSH Branding Model.

p. 28

InSites consulting

Research agency that took part in the investigation for Youthopia study.

p. 28

Rebranding Mix

Different tools or and strategies used in Rebranding, which mainly correspond to: redesigning, repositioning, re-communicating (Stuart and Muzellec, 2004).

p. 39

Brand conversations

Term used in Bergh and Behrer (2011), to refer to the amount of conversations that youth have about brands.

p. 28, 56-59

(FFT)

Fashion Follower and Trendsetters

Both interested in fashion. While the trendsetter, acts as a fashion communicator for the rest of fashion followers, the fashion follower, is a person who looks toward others (such as Trendsetters or innovators) to be informed about latest trends and fashions.

p. 66-69

(NIFTI)

Not interested in fashion trends or innovativeness

Person who doesn’t follow fashion trends and it is not interested in fashion.

p. 66-69


Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) viii

TABLE OF CONTENTS

STATEMENT OF ORIGINALITY II

DIGITISATION CONSENT FORM III

ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS IV

ABSTRACT V

GLOSSARY VI

TABLE OF CONTENTS VIII

TABLE OF FIGURES XI

1. INTRODUCTION 1

1.1 THE STEEPLECHASE: UK FASHION APPAREL AND THE RECESSION 2 1.2 THE STRATEGY: THE MOST STABLE IS MOVEMENT 3 1.3 THE SUBJECTS OF THE OPPORTUNITY: THE NEW WAVE OF CONSUMERS 4 1.4 THE CHALLENGING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE GROUP 6 1.5 THE IMPORTANCE OF MEASURING THE RETURNS 7 1.6 RESEARCH AIM AND OBJECTIVES 9 1.7 STRUCTURE OF THE DISSERTATION 11 1.8 CHAPTER SUMMARY 11

2 LITERATURE REVIEW 12

2.1 REBRANDING STRATEGIES 13 2.1.1 DEFINITION OF REBRANDING 13 2.1.2 ISSUES IN REBRANDING: 15 2.1.3 COMMON PRACTICES WHEN REBRANDING: REDESIGN, REPOSITION AND COMMUNICATION 16 2.1.4 EXECUTION 18 2.2 THE NEW WAVE OF CONSUMERS: THE MALE GENERATION Y CONSUMPTION 20 2.2.1 DEFINITION: 20 2.2.2 THEIR RELATION WITH THE BRANDS AND BRANDING: 21 2.2.3 WHAT DOES CREATE VALUE FOR THEM? 23 2.2.4 WOWING THE NEW GENERATION: BRANDING STRATEGIES TO GEN Y MALE 25 2.3 RETURN ON INVESTMENT OF REBRANDING STRATEGIES 31 2.3.1 THE DIFFICULTIES OF MEASURING THE SUCCESS OF REBRANDING AND ITS IMPACT ON BRAND EQUITY 31 2.3.2 MEASURING BRAND EQUITY: 32 2.3.3 CONSUMER-‐BASED BRAND EQUITY AND IMPACT ON PURCHASE 35 2.4 CHAPTER SUMMARY 38


Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) ix

3 METHODOLOGY 39

3.1 RESEARCH PHILOSOPHY 40 3.1.1 POST-‐POSITIVISM, BETWEEN THE NATURALISTIC AND THE SCIENTIFIC POINT OF VIEW 40 3.1.2 TRIANGULATED APPROACH 44 3.2 RESEARCH DESIGN 44 3.2.1 DEDUCTIVE REASONING 45 3.2.2 EXPLORATORY AND EXPLANATORY 47 3.2.3 ACTION RESEARCH 47 3.2.4 QUANTITATIVE AND QUALITATIVE 48 3.3 RESEARCH TOOLS 48 3.3.1 SECONDARY RESEARCH 49 3.3.2 PRIMARY RESEARCH 50 3.4 DATA COLLECTION AND DATA PRESENTATION 55 3.5 RESEARCH SAMPLE: JUSTIFICATION OF SAMPLE, SIZE AND CHANNELS OF DISTRIBUTION FOR INTERVIEWS AND QUESTIONNAIRES 58 3.6 ETHICS 59 3.6.1 DATA PROTECTION 59 3.6.2 PRIVACY, CONFIDENTIALITY AND SECURITY 60 3.7 LIMITATIONS OF THE RESEARCH 60 3.8 CHAPTER SUMMARY 61

4 RESEARCH FINDINGS: ANALYSIS AND DISCUSSION 62

4.1 QUESTIONNAIRE FINDINGS: 63 4.1.1 SECTION ONE: CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR, PERFORMANCE AND CHARACTERISTICS: TWO SORT OF CONSUMERS. 64 4.1.2 SECTION TWO: BRAND EQUITY 68 4.1.3 SECTION THREE: BRAND LEVERAGE: CRUSH COMPONENTS 73 4.2 INTERVIEW FINDINGS 80 4.2.1 SECTION ONE: BRAND STRATEGY 80 4.2.2 SECTION TWO: ABOUT REBRANDING DRIVERS 82 4.2.3 SECTION THREE: REBRANDING STRATEGY 83 4.2.4 SECTION FOUR: REBRANDING EXPECTED OUTCOMES 84 4.3 CHAPTER SUMMARY 87

5 CONCLUSIONS 88

5.1 INTRODUCTION 89 5.1.1 OBJECTIVE ONE: 89 5.1.2 OBJECTIVE TWO: 89 5.1.3 OBJECTIVE THREE: 90 5.1.4 OBJECTIVE FOUR: 92 5.2 INDUSTRY IMPLICATIONS 92 5.3 ACADEMIC IMPLICATIONS 93 5.4 LIMITATIONS OF THE STUDY 95 5.5 RECOMMENDATIONS FOR FURTHER RESEARCH 95

6 ANNEXURES 98


Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) x

6.1 SURVEYS CONDUCTED 98 6.2 INTERVIEW TO BRAND / COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER OF BEN SHERMAN 102

7 LIST OF REFERENCES 106

7.1 BOOKS 106 7.2 REPORTS 108 7.3 JOURNAL ARTICLES 108 7.4 ELECTRONIC SOURCES 110


Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) xi

TABLE OF FIGURES Figure 1. Aim and Objectives .......................................................................................... 9

Figure 2. The CRUSH Branding Model (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:220). ....................... 19

Figure 3. The CRUSH Components from CRUSH Branding Model (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:48). ................................................................................................................ 24

Figure 4. Impact of Rebranding Mix on Brand Equity Assets. ...................................... 34

Figure 5. Consumer-based brand equity relationship between dimensions created from Pappu et al. (2005) findings and other researchers papers. (Aaker, 1991; Cobb-Walgren et al, 1995; Yoo et al, 2000). ................................................................... 36

Figure 6. Descriptive map of research approaches adapted from Bisman (2010). ...... 41

Figure 7. Research Methodology Overview .................................................................. 46

Figure 8. Map for the questionnaire and interview design. Integration of Consumer-Based Brand Equity model (before in this paper, p. 32) with the CRUSH model (before in this paper, p. 23). ................................................................................... 56

Figure 9. Classification of 35 survey participants based on their relation to fashion .... 64

Figure 10. Classification of the 35 survey participants based upon whether they had purchase in Ben Sherman or not ........................................................................... 65

Figure 11. Subclassification of the 10 survey participants that had purchased in Ben Sherman before or after the rebranding based on their relation to fashion ........... 65

Figure 12. Comparison of logos of the brands that compete in the same market of Ben Sherman. ............................................................................................................... 68

Figure 13. Participants awareness of Ben Sherman Rebranding ................................. 69

Figure 14. Concepts that participants associate with Ben Sherman brand. ................. 71

Figure 15. Changes regarding the perception of "Coolness" that participants had of the brand before and after the Rebranding .................................................................. 74

Figure 16. Changes regarding the perception of "Realness" that participants had of the brand before and after the Rebranding. ................................................................. 75

Figure 17. Changes regarding the perception of "Uniqueness" that participants had of the brand before and after the Rebranding. ........................................................... 76


Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) xii

Figure 18. Changes regarding the perception of "Happiness" that participants had of the brand before and after the Rebranding ............................................................ 79

Figure 19. New Model. Integration of Consumer-Based Brand Equity model (Figure 4) with the CRUSH model (Figure 3). .................................................... 91

Figure 20. Impact of intangible returns on the Intangible returns to explain the return of the investment in rebranding. ................................................................................ 94


Paula Garcia Ferrer - November 2012 - London College of Fashion (UAL) 1

1. INTRODUCTION

Rebranding is widely practiced amongst fashion brands. The fierce competition

and innovative nature of the industry obligates brands to adapt to the upcoming

generations to remain in the mainstream. However, those practices are very risky,

costly and time-consuming. These are just few of the reasons for which is found

necessary to find the most reliable method to calculate the return on investment on a

Rebranding.



1.1 THE STEEPLECHASE: UK FASHION APPAREL AND THE

RECESSION

In the current context of the oversaturated Fashion Retail Market, to build a

strong and balanced brand is crucial in order to create options of growth, barriers to

entry for competitors, command market share and build consumer loyalty (Petburikul,

2009:155). The conditions of a highly dynamic apparel dominated by seasonal trends,

lead in the UK to the need from the fashion industry to take into account the diversity of

the segments and the diversity of perceptions and attitudes towards brands and

fashion trends amongst individuals (Experian, 2010).

Furthermore, according to Gilani (2006:2) is the ephemeral nature of fashion trends

itself, which positions the sector in a critical situation. Clothing brands risk looking tired

or to be upstaged by competitors that have read their segment of the market better.

Therefore, not only the obsolete products, but also the image, values, and equity of

these brands that remain unchanged, risk their position, as stated above, the

perception that consumers have of fashion brands are changing continuously

(Petburikul, 2009, Bergh and Behrer 2011).

In addition to the difficult landscape, since 2011 the clothing landscape in the UK has

been altered for both retailers and consumers, mostly due to the economic recession

that has changed notoriously behaviours and performances. The statistics generally

highlight how challenging the market still is and that consumers are being extremely

cautious on their expenses. According to Mintel (2011:2) after more than a decade of

deflation, the consumers curtail their spending and think twice when buying garments.

For instance, the consumers surveyed by the sources such as Mintel, Verdict, and

Emerald, coincide on the claim to be spending less than they used to do on the apparel



(Hilary Monk, 2011). The claims by the consumers are supported by facts: for the first

part of the 2011, the sector sales growth shows a slowing to a 2.9% by value, and to a

0.3% by volume. Despite some retail analysts believe that those inflationary pressure

conditions could start to improve by the second half of 2012, many sources (Verdict,

2012a and Hilary Monk, 2011) have registered in their clothing retailing reports that for

the third consecutive year the percentage of consumers shopping for clothing is

dropping.

1.2 THE STRATEGY: THE MOST STABLE IS MOVEMENT

Furthermore, as noted generally by market forecasting experts, very few reliable

indicators suggest the current situation is likely to change anytime soon. This may be

the main reason for which many companies in the fashion retail market are hurrying to

make operational investments to maintain their current levels of profitability. With the

arousing of new market trends, companies and consumers, a brand should reinvent

itself to at least maintain its market segment and to preserve its brand equity. Similarly,

Petburikul (2009:155), defend those strategic investments in rethinking business

directions, to the companies aiming to keep up with fierce competition, to at least, have

a chance in the fight for the narrowed market share.

A lot has been written about the consequences or effects of the evolution and changes

on the market and consumer preferences, and thus, some recommendations have

been done to affront the panorama. It has been commonly found that in order to

maintain the “momentum” in the context of these seasonal and highly volatile markets,

the retailers have to keep up the pace of this fast development and creativity in order to

survive, otherwise, those retailers that are left behind, become extinct (Gilani, 2006:1).

Supporting this, in other words: “Companies will occasionally discover that they may

have to re-position the brand because customers change preferences and new



competitors enter the market” (Petburikul, 2009:156). Additionally and referring to the

brand diffusion, researchers have stated that brands will always need to take

opportunities to change a brand in order to sustain the accuracy of brand equity (de

Chernatony and Cottam, 2006; Keller, 2000) or that in order to face the erosion of the

position of a firm in the market, especially when it is due to an out-dated image or

reputation problem, is recommended to undertake repositioning actions (Kapferer,

2008: 262, 263).

In order to revive a brand that is becoming obsolete in such a saturated market,

Rebranding is commonly perceived as a necessary strategy that can escalate a new

business image to build confidence to the consumers, to struggle market share.

Furthermore, according to (Verdict, 2012a) for building confidence to the consumers,

retailers need to investigate who their shoppers are, understand them and mending

offers to sustain existing shoppers to attract new ones. Thus, recapitulating, to face the

narrowing and difficult market context and the consumer ’s new preferences and

attitudes towards fashion and shopping, it is commonly supported that retailers will

need to look closely at who their shoppers are.

1.3 THE SUBJECTS OF THE OPPORTUNITY: THE NEW WAVE OF

CONSUMERS

In the context of the current recession, the large numbers and potential

marketing influence of the new generation of consumers, has been largely ignored.

The lack of employment frustrates the career development of the youngest sectors,

their expenditure has been reduced and many of them are delaying to move out and

establishing their own households to build their families. Sources such as Verdict &

SAAS (2012:7) show that despite of the significant growth in the young fashion sector

over the last five years, the rising cost of going to university and the difficulties of

getting a job post graduation will inhibit sales growth in the segment. It is believed that



these facts will make the young fashion sector more challenging, even for the largest

operators, as this group of consumers is nowadays hit financially.

On the other hand, they are believed to be a generation with a very high buying power

(Bakewell et al., 2006:170), as they have annual incomes totalling USD211 billion and

spend USD39 billion per year (in the USA) (Nowak et al., 2006:316). More actualized

sources, in the current economic context, also describe this group as high spenders

with an annual average of 2000£ in the UK (Paul Edwards, 2009), brand conscious and

loyal. Moreover, at the beginning of 2012, according to Marilynn Hood (2012), this

group is the most important marketing concern to come along in decades, and by 2017

their spending is expected to surpass that of the boomers.

It is therefore logically, that currently, the most struggled target group to comprehend

may be the commonly known as Generation Y, for being identified as the future

consumers of most brands (Goldgehn, 2004; O’Donnell & Yarrow, 2009; Wheeler,

2009; Bergh & Behrer, 2011). Despite the discrepancies, they are generally defined as

the last generation born before the 21th century. It is told that is the group of

consumers that will determine how consumer markets evolve in the next three decades

(Bergh & Behrer, 2011). In addition, Nowak et al., (2006:316) reveals that the Gen Yers

population is much larger than the previous Generation X (over 12.5 million persons),

currently representing more than 20% of total population in UK (US Census Bureau

International Database), what makes even more relevant their unprecedented

consumer characteristics.

In fact, brands are nowadays, aiming to make some changes within their brand assets

to target Generation Y because most of this new wave of consumers are currently

developing and establishing their brand preferences, as most of them age between 15

and 25 (Taylor and Cosenza, 2002:393-408). Not only are believed to have

unprecedented purchasing power but they are also thought to be vital to the continuing



health of fashion marketing as they love shopping especially for clothing (Taylor and

Cosenza, 2002), spending two thirds of their budgets on clothing (Bakewell et al.,

2006:170). It is therefore, coherent that fashion brands aim to revitalise their image in

accordance to their preferences.

1.4 THE CHALLENGING CHARACTERISTICS OF THE GROUP

Nevertheless, the pressure is high for marketers when trying to deal with a

challenging group of consumers to engage, as they are considered the most

marketing-savvy generation (Bergh & Behrer, 2011) of teens and 20-year-olds ever.

Due to this high level of education and knowledge of marketing, traditional structured

forms of communication do not work well with this generation (Goldgehn, 2004:24), as

they are more aware and familiar with brand strategies due to their extensive contact

with the media and their varied skills.

In addition, is a real need to be aware of their preferences, in order to predict their

behaviour, as this group of consumers have also a high power of influence to the

spending habits of their parents (Taylor and Cosenza, 2002: 393). In Gen Buy, (O’

Donnell & Yarrow, 2009:13) a case that supports the theory that Gen Y males effect

change, through their natural ease at forming teams and with their ability to connect

online, they are empowered and consequently more confident about themselves and

the value of their opinions. This means that with their influencing power, any false

move from the brand, could easily lead to its failure.



1.5 THE IMPORTANCE OF MEASURING THE RETURNS

Despite the challenge of engaging that group, it has been noted (Stuart and

Muzeller, 2004:472-481) that different branding strategies, have positive effects on

generation Y and have been identified as one of the solutions to respond the challenge

of new market conditions. Despite repositioning and rebranding strategies are widely

practised by firms to modify the brand, they continue to be considered one of the most

risky in brand management (Kapferer, 2004:415). Moreover, rebrandings are costly,

time consuming and the percentage of failed cases when rebranding is higher

compared to the successful cases (Causon, 2004; Stuart and Muzellec, 2004).

Since a rebranding strategy can cost millions of pounds, and it can even lead to the

failure of a company due to the unpredictable reaction of consumers, it is therefore

necessary to plan and measure the impact of the new branding strategy. It is crucial to

predict accurately the effects that such changes may produce on the consumers and

their reaction or behaviour. Kapferer states:

“No matter how much it stresses added value, value creation and return on

capital investments, marketing cannot continue to evade the efficiency issue

(2008:60).

And consequently, recommends:

“Whether it involves changing the logo, brand icon, packaging, or launching a

brand extension or a promotion no marketing strategies should be applied

without first, specifying the expected financial return on investment, otherwise it

is not justified to allocate a particular amount to one particular investment rather

than to another” (Kapferer, 2008:50).

The reactions of the consumers have to be predicted in order to think the provable

returns of the strategy for the brand, whether talking in terms of tangible or intangible:



revenues, sales, perception of the brand and others. Measuring these implications and

effectiveness for the strategies once implemented, is then, the current problem for

marketers. A lot of difficulties can be found when measuring the return on investment

of a branding initiative because of the difficulties of isolating it from other influences

such as consumer or market trends, product design and other environmental factors.

For the purpose of this dissertation, the Ben Sherman brand provides an exceptional

landscape to study the effects and implications of a revitalising oriented to the

generation Y consumers. Along with other brands, it has recently undergone changes

over all the variables of the marketing mix to reposition itself and meet consumer

expectations. With such revitalisation, it has recently evolved into a British modernist

lifestyle apparel brand targeted at stylish men aged 25 to 40 in multiple markets

throughout the world (Ben Sherman web page). The brand’s primary future target

market is the so-called Generation Y. The dissertation is aiming to target the same

consumer group that this paper has as an object of study, and its Head office is located

in London, which makes it more practical to contact the required departments.



1.6 RESEARCH AIM AND OBJECTIVES

The aim of this research is to explore how a rebranding strategy of a fashion

brand impacts on a specific target group and its overall Return on Investment in terms

of intangible and tangible incomes for the brand, using Ben Sherman to reflect the

findings.

AIM$

Fashion$Brand$Target$Group$

(UK$Genera9on$Y)$

Impact$on$Consumer$Behaviour$

Consumer$Percep9on$of$the$Brand$

Tangible$and$Intangible$Incomes$

Marke9ng$Mix$Variables$Brand$Image$and$Iden9ty$

Ben$Sherman$F I N D I N G S $

Figure 1. Aim and Objectives



The objectives of this research are drawn around the Fashion Rebranding strategies

on which three main fields of study can be distinguished. Those would include first: the

Rebranding strategies and the implications over the marketing mix; secondly, the

Generation Y: its definition, their perception of the brands, behaviour and performance;

and thirdly the return on investment in Rebranding strategies together with the

measurement of tangible and intangible incomes for the brand. Therefore, to achieve

the aim of the research it will be necessary to triangulate the isolated fields described

above from the data gathered from the literature review with the consumer and industry

point of view, relating it to the specific case of Ben Sherman through the following

procedure:

1. Explore the characteristics of the Generation Y and its consumer behaviour.

Connect the preferences or behaviours of Generation Y with the Branding

strategies.

2. Explore the Rebranding implications over the marketing mix in the fashion industry.

Contrasting the theory of the strategies with the practical cases and experts from

the field.

3. Explore the discussions about the measurement of the Return on Investment of

Rebranding.

4. Analyse the success of Ben Sherman’s ROI, in terms of tangible and intangible

values for the rebranding strategy in relation to Generation Y perspective and

make recommendations for rebranding in the fashion industry for this sector.



1.7 STRUCTURE OF THE DISSERTATION

Part one of this thesis contextualises and exposes the objectives of the

research. Part two justifies the methodology and reason for the design and

investigation development of the paper. Subsequently, the literature review discusses

basic issues of rebranding implications over the marketing mix by different authors.

Further, describing Generation Y’s (the new wave of consumers) perception of brands,

their behavior and performance. Moreover, the return on investment of those strategies

to this concrete target market is examined and revised through different authors to

understand the most reliable ways to measure it, reaching the understanding of

intangible and tangible incomes that are represented for the brand. The next step

shows the findings of the data gathered from Generation Y consumers and an

interview to the brands Communications Manager. Afterwards, the findings from the

empirical section are discussed and analysed in reference to the theoretical framework

by linking the findings to the literature review. Finally, conclusion and recommendations

chapter is written with an action research approach when in order to analyse the

success or Return on investment of the concrete case of Ben Sherman.

1.8 CHAPTER SUMMARY

This chapter is an introduction to the study: The Impact of Rebranding on the

UK’s Generation -Y- Consumers. Calculating the ROI of the Ben Sherman Rebranding

strategy and its effects on the behaviour of the target market. The chapter provided a

brief overview of the research problem and the methods used to conduct the research.

Chapter two is the discussion of related literature review of Rebranding strategies to

Male Generation Y consumers and the return on investment.



2 LITERATURE REVIEW

The literature review intends to present a theoretical framework about the three

main subjects of the research, and is divided equally into three sections. The first part

will present the reasons for rebranding, clarifying the concept and describing the

process and strategies from academics and practitioners. The second part aims to

present the generation Y of consumers focusing on male consumer values and

behaviour relating to rebranding strategies. The final section will define and revise what

has been written about the return on investment, explaining the different methods

suggested and how they should be measured.



2.1 REBRANDING STRATEGIES

2.1.1 DEFINITION OF REBRANDING

The description and classification of terms that refer to brand changes have

always been confusing and misleading (Muzellec, et al., 2003). While many descriptors

have been used to explain the rethinking a brand’s identity, “rebranding” has been

specifically coined to describe the actions covering wider areas of the brand (Chai-lee

Goi, 2011). Rosenthal (2003) also supported the differences between rebranding and

repositioning, stressing that brand identity is not changed in repositioning. Indeed,

Muzellec et al. (2003), Muzellec and Lambkin (2006) and Rosenthal (2003) agree that

repositioning should be understood as a step or necessary part of a rebrand. Similarly,

Muzellec et al. defines rebranding as the action of “building a new a name that

represents a differentiated position in the mindset of stakeholders and a distinctive

identity from competitors ” (2003: 32). Muzellec and Lambkin (2006) explain that

rebranding may include changes in marketing performance, aesthetics and

repositioning actions. Supporting this idea, Andrews and Kim (2007) assert that

rebranding intends to change both the existing perceptions among customers and the

company position in the market by creating a “new air” around the established brand, in

order to show a more competitive position and image to the internal and external

environment (Muzellec and Lambkin, 2006; de Chernatony and Riley, 1998).

Daly and Maloney (2004) suggest the existence of two supplementary parts in a brand,

the tangibles, which relate to facts and the intangibles, which relate to values, image,

emotions or feelings. Tangibles and Intangible components of the brand highlight that a

rebranding may consist of modifying some, or all of these elements. Thus, different

names or descriptors are proposed, depending on the grade of change a brand

requires (from minor to major changes):



- Restyling, based on changing image and brand aesthetics;

- Repositioning, the position that the brand aims to occupy in the market,

shareholders, against competitors and in the consumer’s mind is rethought;

- Rebranding, attributed to the widest changes, in both image and position.

Despite the confusion among academics, journalists and practitioners about what

exactly is referred to in a rebranding action, Stuart and Muzellec (2004) seem to give a

more clarified explanation, through classifying the changes into two methods: Brand

Evolution (changes in slogan and logo) and Brand Revolution (changes in slogan, logo

and name), which despite the lack of precision, the results are less problematic and

more illustrative.

However, in practice, the real life examples do not follow any description to reinvent

their brands and encounter numerous problems when defining the actions undergone

by them. Although these issues should be urgently clarified, it could be solved

temporally, for rebranding cases, by specifying exactly which aspects of the brand

have undergone the changes: “a new name and logo, a new name, a new logo and

slogan, a new logo only, and a new slogan only” (Stuart and Muzellec, 2004:474).



2.1.2 ISSUES IN REBRANDING:

“Innovation is the lifeblood of a brand” (Kapferer, 2001: 68)

As different brands have different products, structures, objectives and

situations, they require different formulas for Rebranding (Kitchen, 2010; Kapferer,

2001). In other words, Grant states that due to the rapidly changing business

environment of fashion apparel and its consumers, a brand depends on the success of

its last three or four ideas. (2006:270). Accordingly, academic researchers and

practitioners in branding mention the appropriateness of repositioning or revitalising

actions within a brand In order to keep the brand up to date (Muzellec et al., 2003;

Kapferer 2001).

Similarly, Muzellec et al. (2003) identify different drivers of a Rebranding: changes in

ownership structure, a change in corporate strategy, a change in competitive position

(erosion of market position, outdated image, reputation problems), and a change in the

external environment. (p.34). Parallel to this, Stuart and Muzellec (2004) stresses that

the objective of a Rebranding is to communicate to stakeholders that something about

the organisation has changed. Moreover, it is crucial that a organisation really does

have something new to say and that it is communicated effectively at the time of the

change. (Stuart and Muzellec, 2004:473). Accordingly, Muzellec and Lambkin (2006)

and Muzellec et al. (2003:33) identify two main goals of rebranding: creating a new

image and/or reflecting a new identity which internally affects employees and the

culture, as well as externally affecting all the stakeholders and the images they have of

the company.



2.1.3 COMMON PRACTICES WHEN REBRANDING: REDESIGN, REPOSITION

AND COMMUNICATION

Although there is no uniform branding strategy suitable to all brands and cases,

different key elements or practices have been identified by academics and practitioners

(Aaker,1991; Keller, 2002; LaForet & Saunders 1994).

An early step, which has been commonly identified when working on revitalising a

brand, is to establish the drivers of the lack of consumption (Wheeler, 2009; Kapferer,

2001:115). For instance, for a brand that is being perceived as outdated or that has

reached bad connotations (Kapferer, 2001:62), it may be needed to identify the

reasons for which the brand initially succeeded, in order to recall the original equation.

As Kapferer states, it is not “copying the past new Mini, new Beetle” (2001:171), it is

rediscovering the essential components of the brands, the points of reference (Torella

2007:21).

After the diagnostic, it is also required to plan which segment the brand is aiming to

compete in, in order to revise the marketing mix variables in accordance to the aimed

target. (Torella, 2007:50.) This step, on which the brand may change its strategy

completely or slightly, is essential due to the prevalence of mature markets, the greater

diversity in customer needs, and the ability to reach specialised or niche segments

(Baines, et al., 2005). Additionally, Kapferer suggests the division between “the

already won” segment (of which brands commonly do not want to get rid of), and the “

still to win” segment (2001:119). Torella (2007) notes that companies tend to forget the

need to return to the beginning (2007:33). According to Kapferer (2001:34), this need

for reconstructing the lifecycle of the brand is due to the arousing of new target groups



which do not know which are the characteristics or the differentiator element of the

product. Similarly, when planning the new positioning, it is recommended to think of

one by which the brand can be leader or to establish a new category without limiting a

future growth, allowing the longevity of the established changes. (Torella, 2007:60,61).

Nevertheless, any effort on rebranding is useless when not giving consumers reasons

for which the brand is suited to the new situation in question (Kapferer, 2001:119). It

has to be clear, not only the reasons for the change, but also, to identify the new

differentiator or added value that is offered (Torella, 2007:77-83).

Branding means associating a mark with an offer of value. Additionally, Kapferer

(2001:37) cites: “A strong brand should be unique, superior and special”. Agreeing to

this statement, in Zyman, (1999) it is deduced that a brand aiming to be competitive

should know which are the elements that add value to itself, in other words, the core

elements whose absence disqualifies the brand; indeed, the ones necessary to identify

the brand (Kapferer; 2001: 35, 41). Moreover, having a cohesive brand identity

increases the strength of the bond between customer and brand, affecting behaviours

that enhance brand profitability, customer lifetime value, and leverage (MacInnis and

Park 2005). Consequently, brand managers may focus exclusively on the intangible

aspect, which tends to make the brand less replaceable (Kapferer 2001: 34, 37).

However, customers often associate the brand identity with very concrete, tangible

attributes. As stated by Kapferer, when consumers describe brands they tend to move

from the concrete to the abstract (2001:32). According to these assumptions, a strong

brand identity does not excuse any weaknesses on the tangible part (ie. the product

itself).



2.1.4 EXECUTION

Due to the fact of the existence of wider and more different sorts of consumers,

one of the most valued things when creating a new identity is the convergence of styles

and not just its mere repetition (Wheeler, 2009). However, variety shouldn’t lead to

incoherence but a generation common background theme (Kapferer, 2001:71), which

in Sicard (1998) is referred to as brand system. Furthermore, Kapferer (2001:169)

states that even if it’s necessary to re-shape products and ideas, repositioning the

brand in the market and consumer’s mind, it is impossible to become a reference

without maintaining a set of constant values over the time, as it may risk creating a free

associating mess of unconnected ideas (Grant, 2006:89). Accordingly, it would be

necessary to establish which aspects of the brand are inflexible and which others can

be changed. In other words, it should be identified what forms the essence of the

brand, and what is ephemeral in order to plan a long-lasting and coherent strategy.

(Kapferer, 2001:171).

Due to this essence, some fashion brands have managed to become emblems of

membership especially among youth (Grant, 2006:164). Certainly, youth clans that

share lifestyles or/and music tastes frequently share clothing styles and values (Grant,

2006:174). For instance, Nike has become the emblem of a motivation among

youngsters. Similarly, brands such as Ben Sherman or Dr Martin’s managed to convert

tight tiny-collar shirts and tall work boots into emblems of a youth culture.

However, even the most powerful brands risk their position. It is important to construct

a strong brand that drives to acquire brand leverage, what represents a combination of

brand satisfaction, recommendation and closeness to ideal (Kapferer, 2001:37-38).

Consequently, to have brand leverage it must be guaranteed first that the brand is



sustainable throughout time and that it would “remain hot” year after year (Bergh and

Behrer, 2011).

Bergh and Behrer (2011) also identified the five elements that contribute to brand

leverage among youth. Those are: cool, real, unique, self-identification with the brand

and positive emotions engendered by thought of a brand. Those five elements work as

independent variables in two regression models, one explaining brand conversations

and another one explaining brand image. Seeing a brand with those attributes is

associated with greater brand leverage, and having a stronger brand (See CRUSH

Branding Model definition in the glossary).

Figure 2. The CRUSH Branding Model (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:220).



2.2 THE NEW WAVE OF CONSUMERS: THE MALE GENERATION Y

CONSUMPTION

2.2.1 DEFINITION:

Despite of the discord about the concrete age of this group, most academics

and practitioners define the so-called “Millennials” as the ones born over the last 20

years before the twenty-first century (Yarrow, O’Donnell, 2009:XI; Berg & Behrer, 2011;

Pellegrin, 2009, Taylor and Cosenza, 2002; Goldgehn, 2004). However, this little

disagreement concerning the age, does not have a great impact when targeting due to

the delay” in growing up. It is found that people over thirty years old, nowadays, tend to

behave, dress and imitate younger people and their habits, behaving like “old-teens”

delay” in growing up. It is found that people over thirty years old, nowadays, tend to

behave, dress and imitate younger people and their habits, behaving like “old-teens”

(Berg & Behrer, 2011; Pellegrin, 2009).

It has been noted that there is a grade of difficulty to find gender specific literature

about the subject, which may be due to that differences between genders, leading to a

more homogenised shopping behaviour and performance. For instance, even if a

millennial male still shops less frequently, spending less time and money than the

female, he is still getting more interested in the field than previous generations. In

addition, data from surveys demonstrate that for both genders (71% male, 94% female)

clothes are their favourite thing to buy when shopping (45%), moreover, the 56% of

Yers associated the action of shopping with a “mental vacation” (Yarrow and

O’Donnell, 2009:53). Also, men are outpacing women in increased apparel spending.

In 2008, women’s apparel sales fell 6%, while men’s apparel grew 1%. Their interest in

fashion is increasing even amongst the oldest sections (Pellegrin, 2009), as they are



becoming more confident of their masculinity (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009:135).

Indeed, many notorious retailers such as Saks and Bloomingsdale’s, consider men’s

apparel to be the area of greatest potential growth (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009).

2.2.2 THEIR RELATION WITH THE BRANDS AND BRANDING:

There has been an increase in the interest for the Gen Y’ers due to its

interesting shopping performance and its repercussion, what may be due to the big

size of the group, as it will soon outnumber the previous baby boomer generation (Berg

& Behrer, 2011:6). Moreover, compared to their parents at the same age, and despite

the recession, they spend five times more and they are the least likely group to cut

back their spending after the onset of 2008 (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009:66).

Although, they are better trained consumers, taking into account multiple variables

such as style, length of usage, impact and functionality before making a purchase

decision, and their confidence in self expression, along with the quick decision-making

and the desire to have it all now has a notable impact on their purchasing behaviour

and spending (Yarrow, O’Donnell, 2009:22,44). This makes them spend premium

amounts when they think an item is worth it (Goldgehn, 2004).

The challenge resides then in how to engage them, as according to Berg & Behrer

(2011:5), this generation grow up in an environment full of brands and commercial

media, which makes it difficult to capture or at least to maintain their attention or/and

interest. Researchers and practitioners (Williams et al., 2010; Ferguson, 2011) claim

that youngsters are aware of marketing tactics, and therefore more sceptical about

brand performance, believing that advertising and branding have no effect on them

(Bergh and Behrer, 2011:26-27; Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009). Despite the belief that



they are more immune to branding, a study from 2007 estimates that they still have

145 conversations a week about brands, which doubles the rate amongst adults (Hein,

2007). Yarrow and O’Donnell (2011) and Bergh et. al. (2011), agree in associating their

little interest in advertising with their willingness to have a more genuine, transparent

and honest interaction with the brands. Equally, the high level of attention and care

they had in their growing environment is reflected on their need of a professional

opinion and need of attention from friendly sales people (Yarrow & O’Donnell, 2009:45;

Taylor and Cosenza, 2002). Moreover youngsters want to be asked for their opinion,

and like to have the ability to influence the product (Goldgehn, 2004; Yarrow & O’

Donnell, 2009).

This demanding characteristic of the group can be rewarding. According to the study

conducted in Ferguson (2011) to the UK Millenials, brand loyalty is more volatile

amongst youngsters than older consumers. However, it is also found in that study that

they are more likely to feel easily more loyal and more willing to spread good news

about those brands that offer value or/and reward programs.

Despite the disagreements related to their loyalty, some academics and practitioners

(Goldgehen, 2004, Bergh and Behrer, 2011, Yarrow and O ‘Donnell, 2009) support the

idea that they should be targeted as soon as possible. First, because teenage brains

are still very flexible in this period, therefore, it is an important moment for brands and

products to communicate to this target group, (Berg & Behrer, 2011:16); secondly, if

they are consuming a certain brand in their young years, the brain will be programmed

for similar behaviour when they are adults. (Ferguson 2011, Goldgehen, 2004).

Additionally it is difficult to get them deviated from a brand once they find “their brand”

(Goldgehen, 2004). Moreover, brands should not risk misunderstanding their lifestyles,

and make themselves positively relevant by supporting their needs and enhancing their

values, as they are very influential and trustworthy between them when it comes to

learning about clothing brands (Berg & Behrer, 2011:26-27; Yarrow O ’ Donnell,

2009:25). Research from India reveals that men have a higher risk taking propensity



when it comes to new brand experiences, and are maybe more likely to try new

products and to brand switch as a consequence (Ogden-Barnes, 2011). Certainly,

Yarrow O ‘Donnell, (2009) stresses the importance of the ability that Gen Y’ers have to

connect with others and their knowledge about technology, as any mistake from the

brand can spread in very short space of time damaging it broadly (Yarrow O ‘Donnell,

2009). However, Ogden-Barnes (2011) assert that mature male consumers are less

likely to talk to peers about their recent purchases than younger males, which may limit

the effectiveness of word of mouth marketing for new products aimed at older male

demographics.

2.2.3 WHAT DOES CREATE VALUE FOR THEM?

Neuroscientists have detected that some strategies work better to connect with

teenagers, but this requires a true knowledge of the underlying youth drivers and

needs (Bergh and Behrer, 2011). Furthermore, Karmarkar (2012) stresses in the

interview for Harvard Business School Magazine, that people aren't very good at

accessing where that value comes from, or how and when it is influenced by factors

like store displays or brands, thereby, we may serve from neuroscience to understand

the decision process.

Researches and surveys of the European Millennials are helping branding practitioners

and academics that struggle to understand this powerful group. One of the most

revealing studies is “Youthopia”: a study conducted by MTV Networks International in

2009 with seven thousand Gen y participants (aged 16-34) that helped to create a

snapshot of contemporary youth values, hopes and dreams of young people in Europe.

Bergh and Behrer (2011) and Bergh et al. (2011) suggest that reinventing a brand with

regard to those values, will uplift satisfaction, peer-to-peer promotion, and purchase

preference. Those values have an impact on brand image as well as on brand



conversations, which leads to a substantial brand leverage for the company

(Goldgehn,2004). The other research, from Insite Consulting served from “Youthopia”

is full of case studies and interviews, aimed to develop a brand model addressed to the

Gen Y’ers. This study used both qualitative and quantitative research from consumer

approach and data provided from fashion brands about strategies and consumer

preferences amongst other categories.

Bergh and Behrer (2011) use the data from those and other researches to design the

CRUSH Branding Model that summarises the key aspects for developing branding

strategies to engage and retain European Generation Y consumers. Figure 3,

illustrates how those brands reach the status of being innovative, authentic, emphatic,

and emotive, generating word of mouth popularity and a more positive image amongst

youngsters, which leads to a strong and long-lasting brand.

.

Figure 3. The CRUSH Components from CRUSH Branding Model (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:48).



2.2.4 WOWING THE NEW GENERATION: BRANDING STRATEGIES TO

GEN Y MALE

This section is divided into five subsections. Each subsection corresponds to

the five successful factors of youth brands identified by Bergh and Behrer (2011).

BE COOL, INNOVATIVE, POPULAR, ORIGINAL

Culturally assumed, fashion brands have, generally, the innate status of being original

and appealing. However, although fashion apparel is generally assumed to be

innovative and appealing itself, Bergh and Behrer (2011) state that even in the fashion

industry, brands should keep innovating to appear more appealing to the trendsetter

public. This public has the important characteristic to dictate trends and work as

communicators to the rest of the consumers. And thus it is important for the fashion

brands to connect and engage with them (Bergh & Behrer, 2011:74).

Additionally, data from “Youthopia” studies demonstrate that they are extremely curious

and favour what is real. Thus, those brands that appear to be linked with “cheap and

impatient”, less original or innovative, are also perceived as less cool. On the other

hand, those brands that enhance art and design, for instance, through showcasing

craftsmanship, favour the communication of uniqueness and originality (Bergh et al,

2011). In Ferguson (2011) it is shown that those brands that communicate success,

prestige and achievement were stated to be more likely to maintain relevant to Gen Y’

ers, as they look to stand out of the crowd.

Similarly, a new image for a brand should be consistent, and constantly exciting and

innovative, and confirming brand vision (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:61), thus



strengthening the competitive advantage. Other authors suggest considering the option

to take some risks when rethinking the brand as a strategy to fight Male Y boredom,

which according to Goldgehn (2004), has been identified as one of the feelings that

youngsters try to avoid the most. Additionally, some researchers (Taylor and Cosenza,

2002; Goldgehn, 2004), suggest launching product varieties or limited editions to

engage them through the ephemerality and innovativeness. This is actually not that

risky, as for instance, when adding new products or extending lines, males would avoid

the product if it does not fit their taste. However, it is also advised that brands should

not forget that even when trying to stay cool and relevant it is important to maintain

coherence within brand personality and identity; otherwise it would be interpreted as a

fake buying of coolness (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:87).

BE REALLY AUTHENTIC, BUT DON’T SHOUT IT, WHISPER IT.

As commented before, male Y’ers refuse imitations and staged experiences,

(Bergh and Behrer, 2011) therefore, realness and authenticity acts as a differentiator.

However, the academics differ in the meaning of authenticity. While the classic

interpretation of authenticity proposed by Gilmore and Pine (2007) relates the term to

origin, history and heritage, this seems to be less appealing and relevant to the young

consumers, than the modern interpretation of authenticity. A more current definition of

authenticity is more related to being honest and transparent (being clear about the

DNA of the brand), and is found to be more appealing to the Youngsters (Beverland in

Bergh and Behrer, 2011:104). According to Bergh and Ruyck, (2011) a brand portrays

authenticity when it’s linked to its origins, to a place or to a heritage. A less specific

approach that includes both definitions above is found in Bergh and Behrer, where

authentic brands are defined as real and genuine: “a sincere collections of stories that

provide emotional connections” (2011:103).



Since the perception of authenticity is highly subjective and socially constructed

(Goldgehn, L. 2004), Gilmore and Pine (2007) state that the induction of authenticity is

a driver of buying intention, and according to by Bergh and Behrer, (2011) is a

predictor of perception of originality and an enhancer of brand’s likeability.

Although Gen Y’ers seem to have respect for brands with a heritage, it is difficult trying

to dissuade them that some myths are untrue. Hence, as heritage should be genuinely

exposed and acknowledging that brand authenticity is linked to leading edge

consumers or celebrities such as musicians, the authenticity experience could be

increased by sponsoring certain events or people (Bergh and Behrer, 2011: 115).

Despite this, brands need to evolve and innovate, so that the roots and original spirit of

the founder may be reflected. It has been found that brands may have to look closer to

their heritage to find new opportunities, reinforcing the DNA of the brand (Bergh and

Behrer, 2011:105-107, Gilmore and Pine, 2007). Indeed brands may have to reinvent

themselves continuously without omitting their brand identity. However, brands should

not create barriers or incompatibilities to attract consumers. Supporting that idea, VP of

marketing Doug Palladini referring to VANS shoe brand commented that strong brands

should be able to appeal to different personalities and gender (Bergh and Behrer,

2011: 106).

UNIQUE BUT GROUP BELONGING

Uniqueness is also linked with authenticity. Berg and Behrer (2011:135-145),

recommend brands to claim for its DNA in all those elements of stimuli that lead to

uniqueness such as packaging, brand logo, events, and advertisements which will

support a consistent positioning (Wheeler, 2009).

Although Individualism is a key issue for teenagers, it does not imply isolation (Grant,

2006:246, Yarrow and O’ Donnell, 2009:50,111), actually, male Y’ers organise in youth



subcultures showcasing uniformity in clothing, attitude, and music. Supporting this,

Ogden-Barnes (2011) explains that male Y’ers seek recognition, thereby when

choosing a brand, the same applies; they are expecting the validation from their

environment. Yarrow and O’Donell (2009) certainly support it by explaining that

shopping has turned for many as a hobby, something special that makes them feel

unique.

Unlike previous generations, being loyal to a concrete brand is not that important. The

protagonist is the person, and its style (communication and connection), not the item

that is being worn. Indeed, some defend that the magic is in the mix (Yarrow and

O’Donnell, 2009:111). Thereby, brands should not close barriers to different targets as

nowadays, different kinds of subcultures may share brands. Brands, which are not

open, risk losing potential consumers. Bergh et al. (2011), recommend that brands to

stimulate the personalisation or customisation for being drivers of uniqueness.

SELF-IDENTIFICATION WITH THE BRAND AND DIVERSITY

Brands and products provide a tangible way to communicate and/or reflect

values, interests and opinions (Tuten, 2007). Therefore, brands aiming to target them

should mirror their values and identity, resulting in being more appealing and valuable

for youngsters (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:39; Kapferer, 2001:136). This provides a

strong engagement and a direct effect on brand leverage (Bergh and Behrer, 2011). In

Bergh et al, (2011) it has been identified three levels of aspired identification or

connection with the brands amongst consumers: “who I am” - for instance with

Billabong; “I wanna become, or experiment”: Nike; or “I wanna make the world a better

place”: Desigual, Muji.

According to what stated previously, it may be important to create different lines or

brands to engage a wider range of youngsters (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:159-180;

Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009). Moreover, Bergh and Behrer (2011) state that as brands

aren’t dictating styles anymore, they should offer more assortment and allow young



people to interact with the brand elements they like. Supporting this idea, in Ogden-

Barnes (2011) it is shown that male youngsters are less affected by the self-affinity

feeling with the brand, what may permit the brand to appeal to a larger or less specific

public through creating new lines and products to cover the diversity of styles. For

instance, former global brand director of H&M, Jörgen Anderson (when participating in

the research for Insite Consulting) links the brand success to the brand’s diversity of

styles.

Additionally, N. Rollins states in Yarrow and O’Donnell (2009:120) that young people

can’t even predictably be divided into clear groups, because they don’t create identity

by associating with a certain category, like jock or nerd. In other words, they are very

flexible with their identity construction. This happens also between age groups: For

instance, AXE deodorant, which is targeted to men aged between eighteen and twenty

four, was enormously success with middle-school boys. Therefore, men taking note

stop using the product for being a kids’ product, and consequently, kids refused it as

well (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009:123).

Kapferer states that the brand value can only be accumulated by creating a more

intense link between the brand and each of its consumers (2001:113), and requires

staying aware of what consumers want. In how cool brands stay hot (Berg and Behrer,

2011) is shown the case of Jack & Jones. The designers of the brand are still part of

the target group of the brand, and get inspired watching their peers. This relationship

between consumer and brand permits an absolute fulfilment of the needs and values of

the target market at any time. However, in Bergh and Behrer (2011:159-180) is

recommended not to promote the same values but to prove (otherwise the brand would

not be authentic) them by valuable products, musical and cultural events, as they have

been identified as determinants of engaging in subcultures.



EMOTIONAL HAPPINESS:

A common characteristic to the “Gen Y’ers” is the need for escapism or

hedonism, which leads into the research of happiness or positive emotions. (Yarrow

and O’Donnell, 2009:123). According to Bergh and Behrer (2011) and Yarrow and

O’Donnell (2009), emotions are pivotal drivers of our buying behavior. Indeed, they are

believed to have a direct impact on consumer decision-making. Thus, emotions grab

consumer attention, create a buzz and stimulate word-of-mouth, leading to brand

engagement (Bergh et al, 2009; Bergh and Behrer, 2011:184,185,189).

For male youngsters, the concrete emotion of surviving risks or being engaged in new

situations leads to pleasure (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:19). Thereby, as suggested by

Bergh and Behrer, (2011:212) the key to emotional branding may be to create events

or experiences, delivering pleasure and gratification. Therefore brands may incorporate

emotions when communicating such as happiness, to help Gen Y’ers to forget about

their stress and minimise their negative emotions making it more appealing (Yarow and

O’Donnell, 2001:123, Bergh and Behrer, 2011: 189, 201).On the other hand, it is found

that they develop mental connections or associations, out of the store, between brands

and their own lives (Herbert Krugman in Kapferer 2001:137). Therefore, when wearing

brands that have positive feedback from the environment, they are more willing to find

an emotional connection with them (Bergh and Behrer, 20011:17).

Gen Y’ers consume and process the information differently: Yarrow and

O’Donnell state that they have a speedy style, fleeting and flitting attention, and their

tolerance for boredom is understandably low (2009:96). Thus, this need for stimulation

and instant gratification is also translated in consumer behaviour (Bergh and Behrer,

2011:21). Additionally, in “Why we buy” (2008), Underhill, noted that men, when faced

with multiple options would simply leave the stores (Yarrow and O’Donnell 2009:132).

Accordingly, in order to capture male Gen Y’ers, it is suggested to stay simple, to

supply them with some boredom-fighting merchandise and provide them few options to



choose from (Yarrow and O'Donnell, 2009:131). On the other hand, the store

environment is also important. Customers want to feel comfortable, and secure in the

shops, they have to be cool, with the right smell, music and great atmosphere (Yarrow

and O'Donnell, 2009:50-51). For instance, in Yarrow and O’Donnell (2009) is stated

that Urban Outfitters is particularly appealing to men. The store mixes clothes, toys,

racy books and other playful merchandise in a sporadic, ever changing display that

feels like an adventure to shoppers (Yarrow and O’Donnell 2009:179).

2.3 RETURN ON INVESTMENT OF REBRANDING STRATEGIES

2.3.1 THE DIFFICULTIES OF MEASURING THE SUCCESS OF REBRANDING

AND ITS IMPACT ON BRAND EQUITY

Although there appears to be more failures than successes in rebranding

actions (Causon, 2004; Stuart and Muzellec, 2004), it still constitutes one of the most

practiced strategies amongst firms to modify the brand (Kapferer, 2004). Accordingly

Stuart and Muzellec (2004) stated that whether it involves changing the logo, the brand

icon or the packaging, or launching a brand extension or a promotion, it is generally

costly, time-consuming and risky, and thus, as stated by Kapferer (2001:59-60) none of

these recommendations should be made without specifying the expected financial

return on the investment.

As stated above, measuring the success of a rebrand is difficult. The motives for taking

actions differ and therefore the objectives do as well (Muzellec and Lambkin, 2006).

Despite the discrepancies in the rebranding definition, most practitioners and

academics agree on its main aim: to enhance the Brand Equity (Aaker, 1991; Causon,

2004; Muzellec and Lambkin, 2006; Petburikul, 2009) and generate added sales



(Aaker, 1991). Moreover, researchers do recommend making changes in brand assets

in order to maintain brand equity (Keller, 2000; Chernatony and Cottam, 2006).

Empirical findings from the study of Goi (2012) and in accordance with most academics

(also justified in Goi, 2012:9) show how rebranding impacts on brand equity. In this

study, three of the most significant techniques or practices of rebranding are specified

(which accord with the description of strategies mentioned in the first section 2.1

Rebranding strategies): redesigning, repositioning, and recomunicating.

2.3.2 MEASURING BRAND EQUITY:

Aaker (1996:7) defines brand equity as: “set of brand assets linked to a brand,

its name and symbol, that adds or subtract from the value provided by a product or

service to a firm or to the firm’s costumers”. In Cobb-Walgren et al. (1995) is found two

techniques to measure brand equity, which tend be either financial or consumer-

related:

In one hand, according to the Financial-Based perspective, different methods can be

used to measure brand equity. For instance, Mahajan et al. (1991) used the potential

value of brands to an acquiring firm as an indicator of brand equity. On the other hand,

Simon and Sullivan (1993) based on the funds needed to establish a new brand in

relation with the probability of success. However, according to Cobb-Walgreen et al.

(1995), this method is only applicable when launching a new product. In Cobb-Walgren

et al. (1995:26) one method to measure brand equity (that is widely used in the

financial environment) is a formula that calculates the net brand related profits, and

then assigns multiple based brand strengths. According to this vision of brand equity,

other researchers defined brand equity as the value of a brand to the firm (Simon and

Sullivan, 1993; Pappu et al, 2005).



On the other hand, based on the Consumer Perspective, brand equity is defined as the

value of a brand for the consumer (Aaker, 1991; Keller,1993; Pappu et al, 2005).

According to this perspective, Aaker 1991, suggests using a brand earnings multiplier

based on a weighted average of the brand on its key components: brand awareness,

brand associations, perceived quality, (consumer perceptions) brand loyalty (consumer

behaviour) (Cobb-Walgren et al, 1995). Accordingly, Aaker (1991) assumed that

consumer perceptions lead to behavioural manifestations of brand equity, which lead to

brand loyalty (Cobb-Walgren et al, 1995) and based on that consumer perception,

suggested it as another method to measure brand equity. This method consists in

rating and comparing branded and unbranded equivalent products. The same

perceived position is adopted in Keller (1993:2), which defends that brand equity as the

differential effect of brand knowledge on consumer response to the marketing of the

brand.

After considering the main two approaches to measure brand equity, it has been found

(Pappu et al.) more appropriate the consumer-based method rather than

business/accounting-based method for measuring brand equity in order to “secure a

better run of the investment” (2005:154). According to Pappu et al, the consumer-

based perspective corresponds to the added value of the brand to the consumer, this

has been more linked by researchers to brand equity (2005:144).

Thereby, after assuming that rebranding aims to impact on brand equity, (Petburikul,

2009; Aaker, 1991) and that brand equity refers to the brand’s added value for the

consumer (Pappu et al, 2005:144), it is possible to estimate what is the impact to the

consumer and returns for the brand of a rebranding strategy, reviewing what are the

components of Brand Equity and Rebranding Mix. Thus it could be done as a

comparison between the behavior and perception before and after the implementation

of the rebranding strategy. In any case, Cobb-Walgren (1995) stresses the importance

of accurate brand equity in order to have an effective equity management since it is

more difficult to measure new added value when lacking of the initial values.



As shown in the graphic, there is a relation between how rebranding impacts on

consumer behavior and perceptions (brand equity) toward brands: Thereby, an

appropriate rebranding mix (repositioning, redesigning and re-launching or re-

communication) would impact positively on: brand awareness, brand associations,

perceived quality (consumer perceptions) and therefore on brand loyalty (consumer

performance). In other words, it would signify an intangible return for the brand with the

possibility to bring future tangible returns to the brand.

However, past studies found that rebranding strategies do not always have positive

effects on brand equity but sometimes have negative ones. For instance, Muzellec and

Lambkin (2006) indicate that since brand awareness is a key component of brand

equity, redesigning a brand is likely to further damage the equity of the brand. On the

other hand, it is found (Goi, 2012) that repositioning and a new method of

communication can both have positive effects on brand equity.

Figure 4. Impact of Rebranding Mix on Brand Equity Assets.



According to these assumptions and despite the fact that redesigning is necessary

when rebranding, the brand should be redesigned carefully, because the bigger the

changes in the brand, the more likely the brand equity is to be weakened (Goi, 2012).

Despite these drawbacks, it has to be taken into account that the negative impact of

the redesign on brand equity that the study of Goi (2012) showcases, may be due to

the recent character of the rebranding. Indeed, in Rosenthal (2003) it is noted in order

to evaluate the real effects of a rebranding, needs at least ten years of time as

customers may not appreciate such changes immediately and react negatively if they

perceive that the core brand values have changed or disappeared after rebranding

(Haig, 2003).

2.3.3 CONSUMER-BASED BRAND EQUITY AND IMPACT ON PURCHASE

The customer-based brand equity and its effects on consumer behavior, leads

to tangible returns that are widely discussed in marketing theory. Chen and Chang

(2004:219-227) relate high levels of brand equity to higher rates of consumer

preferences and purchase intention. Equally, Pappu et al. (2005:34) states that firms

with high brand equity usually have good performance.

TsuiYii Shih (2010:58) indicates that marketing activities have important influence on

the brand equity and purchase intention. In the same study (Tsui Yii Shih, 2010) when

relating marketing strategies to brand equity and purchase intention, explains that first,

marketing strategies and consequently, brand equity, have significant positive effects

on the purchase intention of consumers and also have positive effects on brand equity

(2010:60). Supporting the other researchers, Moradi and Zarei (2011:543) also note in

their study about the impact of brand equity on purchase intention that the amount of

brand awareness, perceived quality, brand association and brand loyalty which

effectively, indicate brand equity. Moreover, their empirical findings (most of the



participants being youngsters) also show that brand equity influences consumers’

brand preference and purchase intention.

Pappu et al. (2005) proposed associative relationships among four consumer-based

brand equity dimensions (figure 5), understanding its relation and performance towards

purchase behavior. Some researchers differentiate (Aaker, 1991; Cobb-Walgren et al,

1995; Pappu et al., 2005) and others associate or mix (Yoo et al, 2000) the dimensions

of brand awareness and brand associations.

The chart summarises Pappu et al. (2005) statements and other researchers’ papers.

(Aaker, 1991; Cobb-Walgren et al, 1995; Yoo et al, 2000) regarding brand equity when

performing branding actions.

Brand Associations

Brand Loyalty Perceived Quality

Brand Awareness

Figure 5. Consumer-based brand equity relat ionship between dimensions created from Pappu et al. (2005) f indings and other researchers papers. (Aaker, 1991; Cobb-Walgren et al, 1995; Yoo et al, 2000).



Return on Investment is conventionally based on evaluating the impact of expenses

with the revenues gained. A positive return happens when profits exceed the costs

involved. However, when trying to measure the returns of an investment in rebranding,

the main problem to be found is in the multiple external factors that can impact on

sales, and what drives to theorise.

Brand equity is being recognised by many researchers and academics as a

good predictor of purchase intention (Cobb et al. 1995; Moradi and Zarei, 2011) and its

measurement has been investigated by many (Cobb-Walgren et al., 1995; Moradi and

Zarei, 2011; TsuiYii Shih, 2010). Interesting and more explicative findings are shown

below:

Cobb-Walgren et al. (1995), finds through empirical research (where the target

audience surveyed were students) that those brands with higher levels of brand equity

generated significantly greater preference and purchase intentions. Furthermore, the

results from the research on how brand equity impacts on purchase intention and

brand preference of Moradi and Zarei (2011) show also that brand equity has a great

impact on those factors. In the same article (Moradi and Zarei, 2011:543) it is

highlighted that other researchers such as Chang and Cheng (2008) obtained the

same conclusion with their empirical studies.

Accordingly, Powell as a practitioner proposes a holistic approach to measure brand

equity, predicting to what extent the rebranding campaign is helping to improve the

intangible (some of brand equity assets) and therefore to what extent it is influencing

brand loyalty and the raise in purchases (tangible returns). Thus, Powell (2007)

explains that marketers should try to identify the measurable outcomes of rebranding

activities and correlate them with expected financial benefits. For instance, if a brand

spends X to increase in 1% brand awareness, correlating this percent of increase to

the increased purchase intention leads to a “nearly complete picture of how a



Rebranding can drive incremental revenue, share and profit” (Powell, 2007:31

interview extract).

2.4 CHAPTER SUMMARY

Fashion brands used different methods to update themselves and capture the attention

of a certain target audience. According to which parts of the brand are affected by the

changes undergone by the brand, were found: redesign, repositioning and

communication. Being the current target of many fashion brands, the UK Male

Generation Y of consumers are found to have unique characteristics. Marketers are

challenged with this marketing-savvy generation who at the same time have a high

purchasing power. Literature for rebranding to the Generation Y Males and measuring

returns on investment of rebranding strategies was limited; this highlights the

significance of the current research study. Chapter 3 discusses the research

methodology that was used to describe the perception of the consumers towards

fashion rebranding and the impact on their performance.



3 METHODOLOGY

This chapter aims to give to the reader detailed information about the research

approach, the methodology, the tools and the criteria used for the collection and

evaluation of the data. The chapter explains and justifies the Research philosophy and

design, followed by the tools used in secondary and primary data collection. Moreover,

exposes the sample group and the code of ethics presented to the participants in

surveys and interviews. It also explains the treatment and/or tabulation of the

information collected, in other words, how the data is collected and presented.



3.1 RESEARCH PHILOSOPHY

It is found (Proctor, 1998) that when structuring a research study the fact to expose

personal beliefs or paradigms of the researcher, provides a better understanding of the

relation between the ontological assumptions (what entities exist) epistemological

assumptions (what can be known), and methodological assumptions (what research

designs are appropriate for generating new knowledge) on which is based the

investigation (Hunt and Hansen, 2010).

Indeed, it has been found specifically necessary in any research to specify the

philosophical approach, clarify its design, specify research methods and to make

awareness of the possible constraints and opportunities of particular approaches

(Easterby et al, 2002; Crossan, 2003; Hasslinger et al, 2007; Proctor, 1998). This

permits the researcher to avoid the inappropriate methodologies (Easterby et al, 2002)

and ensures consistency in the application of different methods to a research question

(Proctor, 1998).

3.1.1 POST-POSITIVISM, BETWEEN THE NATURALISTIC AND THE SCIENTIFIC

POINT OF VIEW

There is a wide variety of approaches to be used when researching, however the most

common are found to be: Relativism, Positivism, and Realism (Hunt and Hansen,

2010). In order to avoid confusions caused by the diversity of forms and differences in

approaches, it is found a appropriate to show the main forms of thinking and research

approaches. The chart shows a descriptive map of research approaches adapted from

Bisman (2010):



In one hand, the interpretive way of approaching believes that reality is subjective, self-

referential, and therefore internally experienced, interpreted and constructed by the

mind (Morgan and Smirch, 1980), consequently, knowledge cannot be discovered

(Holden and Lynch, 2004). Moreover, this explorative approach stresses the

complexity of human mind and social world (Saunders et al, 2007) and accordingly it

uses qualitative methods through a naturalistic approach (Remenyi et al., 1998) what

often leads to the incapacity to make generalisations (Bisman, 2010). However, despite

it has been found the appropriate approach to study human behaviours (Bisman,

2010), for the concrete purpose of this research, this methodology has not been found

pertinent because it is precisely served from quantitative methods with the aim to find

generalised assumptions.

On the other extreme it is found the positivist philosophy of research, which is believed

to be the dominant among the general public (Bisman, 2010; Crossan, 2003). It

conceives the world as prior to the existence of human consciousness (Holden and

Lynch, 2004) and therefore, considering it as a tangible and immutable structure

independent of the human knowledge (Gill and Johnosn, 1997), the reality can be

observed and discovered. This scientific approach uses quantitative methods, such as

Figure 6. Descriptive map of research approaches adapted from Bisman (2010).



experimentation or observation in order to discover human experience, what

contributes to keep the research free from values, passions and ideology of the

researcher (Ryan, 2006). However, the main obstacle to be found in positive research

is that contrary findings or those that simply can’t be explained are discarded (Bisman,

2010) in other words; it is not the nature of positivist approach to understand or search

for contextual reasons for those anomalies. These facts make the current research

distance from the scientific approach because the strict use of this approach would

lead the findings to a lack of any contribution that statistical data is able to provide.

While the purpose of this investigation, is concretely, to research about perceptions,

behaviours and performances of humans and its reasons; the positive approach, as

highlighted in Ryan (2006:14), is though to be inadequate to explain and predict social

trends.

On the other hand, despite subjective and objective researches are generally

conceived as counter views, they are commonly used in conjunction. In Crossan

(2003) is highlighted that scholars have suggest that the distinction between different

philosophies is exaggerated and that the mixture of methods is common in research.

This is precisely the case of the post-positivist approach, which serves this

investigation to proceed with a combination of qualitative and quantitative methods to

reach and explain the findings. Post-positivism critical realists recognise that all

observation is fallible therefore every theory is revisable. This point explains the fact

that although exists so many researches about the impact of marketing strategies on

consumer behaviour, each of them still contributes to generate new knowledge of the

field. In the same manner, post-positivism emphasises the importance of multiple

measures and observations each of which may possess different types of error, and

therefore supports the usage of different research tools as for instance those used in

this research such as interviews and questionnaires. Accordingly, researchers and

practitioners (Trochim, 2006; Bisman, 2010) stress that objectivity can be reached

through the application of multiple or mixed research methods and that it benefices

those studies examining human behaviours and is therefore, considered appropriate

for the investigation conducted in this research.



As shown in Figure 6, the Post-positivism is situated between the explanatory nature of

natural sciences, and the aim to understand of social sciences, what enhances the

creation of knowledge (Ryan, 2006; Raddon, 2010). Some believes about the nature of

Social Research (shown below) support the appropriateness of the Post-positivist

approach ad therefore, it has been found the most appropriate in order to conceive and

relate to each other the fields of human behaviour and marketing strategies.

-Research is broader than specialised

-Theory and practise cannot be separated and

-Proper research does not only concern correct techniques for collecting and

categorising information.

(Shratz and Walker, 1995:1-3; Ryan, 2006).

To deal with the objectives of this is research, this approach supposes an advantage in

understanding human performance because it connects researchers and the people

who participate in research. Not only contributes to a better understanding of the

consumers point of view, but it also allows a closer approach to a real Rebranding

practice (The case of Ben Sherman Rebranding). In Ryan (2006) is highlighted that in

this sort of research, the investigators learn with the subjects of the study rather than

conducing research on them in other words, it is adopted a learning role rather than a

testing one. Additionally, it is also noted that critical realism method of post-positivist

approach, detect differences between reality and people perception of reality. This,

applied to the research that concerns in this paper means to contrast the industry

perceptions and previsions versus the real point of view of the consumer, its perception

and performance.



3.1.2 TRIANGULATED APPROACH

In accordance with the post-positivist methodologies, a Triangulated approach is

chosen due to the belief that the data extracted from those researches is more reliable

as it provides richer and more comprehensive information. Different fonts provide the

data that is collected for the investigation. From academic books to research papers

and from the consumers to the Ben Sherman brand itself, provide information that is

contrasted in order to approach the maximum objectivity and to find the causes of such

reality. Such “multiple-source” approach provides the research with validity, reliability

and updated data. Bailey and Turner (2009:2) suggest that when an independent third

party asks questions separately to a company and its customers, it creates a

triangulation of perspectives that helps to clarify issues better than one-way, single-

observer research, additionally, thoughts are shared more candidly to an independent

third party. Summarising, this approach is appropriate because of the non-interfering

nature of the researcher in the results and investigation for not belonging to or having

relation with any of the groups or facts on which the research is conducted.

3.2 RESEARCH DESIGN

As found pertinent for the research, this chapter is organised in order to show all the

major parts of the research project, since, exposed by Trochim (2006) the research

design provides the structure that holds the research project together.

In order to accomplish with the aim of this investigation, this research is taking a

deductive approach. Firstly, with explanatory means, is searching for common

behaviours amongst consumers and secondly, is moving to a more exploratory

approach to understand the reasons and consequences of those common features

found in the first part.

The investigation starts from the review of what has been written by other researchers,

academics and practitioners regarding branding, consumer behaviour and return on



investment subjects. This first theoretic framework helps to narrow down from the

global fields to the specific facts found interesting to be analysed in the posterior

chapters. And is in the second part of the research, when those facts in the fields are

tested and explained through the use of questionnaires and interviews. After an overall

revision and relation between all facts, conclusions are written with the intention to

create new and useful knowledge for the fields.

3.2.1 DEDUCTIVE REASONING

The research would generally use a deductive mode of reasoning. It would be moving

from the general cases in rebranding of fashion brands to the specific case of Ben

Sherman brand. As noted above, deduction reasoning works from the more general to

the more specific. This research commences with thinking up a theory about a topic of

interest. Following, the issues are narrowed down to more specific hypothesis that can

be tested, even further when collecting data from the observations to address the

hypotheses. This ultimately provides the necessary support to test the hypotheses with

specific data (confirming or not the proposed theories). In the Literature Review of this

research (Chapter 2), previous theories on the subjects are discussed in order to

contrast with the data collected in this research from the surveys to Consumers and

Industry.

As recommended in Goldbort (2006) it is provided a clear step-by-step flow of research

(Figure 7) and explain the components of the research to avoid ambiguity.



!

EXPLORE HOW A REBRANDING STRATEGY OF A FASHION BRAND IMPACTS ON A

SPECIFIC TARGET GROUP AND ITS OVERALL RETURN OF INESTMENT FOR THE BRAND.

1. Explore the characteristics of the Generation Y and its consumer behaviour. !

2. Explore the Re-branding implications over the marketing mix in the fashion industry.

3. Explore the discussions about the measurement of the Return on Investment of Rebranding.

4. Analyse the success of Ben Sherman ROI, in terms of tangible and intangible values for the Rebranding strategy in relation to Generation Y perspective and make recommendations for Rebranding in the fashion industry for this sector.

Generation Y: Definition, Their Perception of the brands, Behaviour and Performance.

Re-branding implications over the Marketing Mix

Interviews to Brand/Communications manager

THE INDUSTRY

OBJECTIVES

THE CONSUMER

Questionnaires to customers

LITERATURE REVIEW

TRIANGULATION OF DATA

Return of Investment in Re-branding strategies: Measurement: Tangible and Intangible incomes for the brand.

ACTION RESEARCH

ANALYSIS OF BEN SHERMAN REBRANDING

ANALYSIS OF initial FINDINGS

CONCLUSION

DISCUSSION

AIM

RESEARCH METHODOLOGY

CREATION OF A MODEL OF REBRANDING ROI MEASUREMENT. In tegration of CRUSH Branding Model (Bergh and Behrer, 2011) and Consumer-Based Brand Equity Model (Pappu et a l, 2005).

Figure 7. Research Methodology Overview



3.2.2 EXPLORATORY AND EXPLANATORY

In this investigation, the Exploratory method is selected to gain new insights, “discover

new ideas and/or increase knowledge” (Burns and Grove, 1998:38) of Rebranding

effects on Gen. Y consumers and its returns for the brand. The surveys to consumers

and interviews managers are interpreted with an ethnographic approach. This

qualitative research design supported by the literature review acknowledged in the

second chapter (Literature Review) would permit a comprehension of their cultural

behaviour. On the other hand the Explanatory approach is used to find common

patterns and quantify them, balancing the research with the provision of numerical,

statistic data about the specific case of this research.

3.2.3 ACTION RESEARCH

In order to accomplish with the aim of the research, the Ben Sherman case of

Rebranding has been found appropriate as it embodies a common situation under

study in this research. For this reason, the research narrows and focuses to the

concrete case of Ben Sherman aiming to find out the returns and the impact of the

recent changes or/and actions within brand assets and performance to a specific and

group of population. This approach is mainly taken when gathering data in primary

research, but is also present in every step of the research. Consequently, the research

about rebrandings and Return on Investment, is carried in accordance with the main

characteristics of the brand: is a Fashion company Rebranding with European Male

Gen Yers as a target group. According to Coughlan and Coghlan (2002), where Action

Research is defined as an approach to research that aims both at taking action and

creating knowledge or theory about that action, it is deducted that the concerning

research is taken with this approach. It has also been found, appropriate as Action

research is popular in management (Dawson, 2009:17) and enables the comparative



research on conditions and effects of the brand performance and its repercussion on

the action of the consumers (Lewin, 1946).

3.2.4 QUANTITATIVE AND QUALITATIVE

The investigation is using both quantitative and qualitative research methods as it

enables to counteract the weaknesses when gathering data (Olsen, 2004:6).

In one hand, there is the qualitative research, which, according to Burns and Grove

(2003:356) describes the depth, richness and complexity inherent in a phenomenon

and focus on understanding the whole. Therefore, this method is found appropriate

because the research aims to have an in-depth comprehension of the target

performance and brand strategies. In other words, it is aimed to determine “Why” and

“How” the Rebranding practices impact on consumer behaviour.

On the other hand, to balance the previous subjective approach, quantitative data

would objectively be gathered from: Published printed and electronic sources, fiscal

results and other statistical data and standard questions in surveys.

The background of the research concerning rebrandings, Consumer Behaviour and

Return on Investment is acknowledged through the analysis of the data found in the

LR. This first stage of the research provides the theoretical base to test and relate to

each other the theories for the specific case of Ben Sherman Rebranding. In the

following section, it is explained in detail the tools used for gathering data for the

research.

3.3 RESEARCH TOOLS

In order to achieve the aims of the research it should be conducted both an extensive

secondary and primary research, with this structure it is aimed to have a better contrast



of data so as to arrive to a more reliable conclusion. It is followed a step-by-step

process as it is intended that each stage builds upon what has been found or

acknowledged in the previous stage.

3.3.1 SECONDARY RESEARCH

The first part of the investigation consists in the revision of the literature review. The

objective is to gain enough knowledge about three main fields: Rebranding, Male

Generation Y and its consumer behaviour, and the Return on Investment of

Rebranding strategies and its measurement. The specific data concerning market

trends, fiscal reports or other statistical information, is extracted from online sources

such as Mintel, Emerald, Census Bureau US and Reuters. Basic information about the

investigated fields is gathered from academic books, practitioners and research

papers.

As found pertinent in Yin (2009), when the research questions are more explanatory

such as “How” or “Why” are more likely to lead to the usage of case studies and

experiments as research methods. For this research is found appropriate the use of the

concrete case of Ben Sherman to address the research questions because it

epitomises a common case of Rebranding strategies amongst fashion companies. It is

also noted in Yin (2009) that this sort of case study could represent a significant

contribution to knowledge and theory building as the case of this brand connects all the

topics of the research: the target market, the location, the branding situation and also, it

is found convenient for its chronology and availability.



3.3.2 PRIMARY RESEARCH

The second part of the investigation would include the collection of data from the

company and its consumers in order to compare brand strategy and Rebranding

outcomes expectations with the perceptions that consumers have of the brand, before

and after the Rebranding.

According to the triangulated approach of the investigation the primary research is

divided in two sections depending on the source that provides the information: the

brand and the consumers.

3.3.2.1 The Interview design: Brand Communications Manager

In the case of the brand it is found pertinent to conduct a semi-structured

interview because the research aims to know specific information about brand

strategies and expectations. The interview is conducted to the Ben Sherman

communications manager, which is asked to answer questions about brand

motives, intentions and expectations regarding the rebranding. The interview is

divided into the following four sections:

Section 1: About the brand

The interviewee is requested to explain brand’s philosophy, values, and

character. Additionally, is asked about brand target, positioning and differentiator

elements of the brand.



Section 2: About Rebranding Drivers

In that section, the interview participants are asked about the period before Ben

Sherman Rebranding implementation in order to understand the motivators of the

Rebranding. The key of this section, is to know the reasons that drives Ben

Sherman to re-organise, re-design, and re-communicate.

Section 3: About Rebranding Strategy

This section aims to know, in general, how the Rebranding is planned. How the

problems shown in the previous part of the interview, are intended to be solved.

This includes finding the answer to the following questions:

To which parts of the brand affects this changes? Does this involve changing

staff to concur with the image? Do the customers change? When has the

Rebranding process started? When is it planned to be totally established? Which

communication strategy does the brand use to inform the customers about the

changes?



Section 4: About Rebranding expected Outcomes

Finally, in the last section, the interviewed is asked about which procedures and

which are the tangible and intangible costs of a Rebranding strategy. More

concretely, is asked about the expected monetary and non-monetary Return On

Investment, and how do they measure it.

All this information is contrasted with the perceptions and performance of the

customers extracted in the following section, the customers questionnaires.

3.3.2.2 The Questionnaire Design: The Consumers

In order to discover the real impact of the Rebranding, it is conducted an open-ended

and closed-ended questionnaire to the consumers. This method is found appropriate

when aiming to know what are the concrete outcomes of a particular situation (Yin,

2009) in this case: how the perception and performance of the consumers change after

a Rebranding. The combination of both open-ended and closed-ended questionnaires

is due to the willingness to acquire both quantitative and qualitative data from the

surveyed.

The questionnaire is divided in different sections: Firstly, there is a section regarding

consumer behaviour, performance and characteristics, and secondly, there are two

more sections regarding Brand equity and Brand Leverage.

Section 1: Consumer Behaviour, Performance and Characteristics

This section consists of 5 questions. The participant is asked basic information

such as age, gender and location to ensure is a valid member of the sample

group. Additionally, is asked information regarding its consumer behaviour,

preferences and performance when purchasing fashion. Finally he is inquired



issues regarding its relation with the fashion brands and more concretely about

Ben Sherman.

Section 2: Brand Equity

This section consists of 6 questions. In this part of the questionnaire, the Brand

Dimensions are tested amongst the 6 questions. Those are: Brand awareness,

Brand Associations and Perceived Quality, which are rated through

advertisements, word connections and products and store environments. The

participant is asked to identify the brand through advertisement, asked about

their speciality products, origins, concepts and activities. This part compiles

perceptions of the customers and aims to predict brand loyalty, consumer

preference and purchase intention. Additionally, and not only to rate brand

awareness but to introduce following section, the last question the participant is

asked whether he noticed any change around ben Sherman brand.

Section 3: Brand Leverage

The last section is organised in 6 questions. First question relate exclusively to

the S-component about the self-identification of the participant with the brands.

Second and third questions ask information through two matrix tables where they

are asked to rate the Ben Sherman brand before and after the rebranding. The

different adjectives and terms relate directly to each of the five CRUSH

components: Coolness, Realness, Uniqueness Self-identification of the

consumer with the brand and ability to recall to Happiness before and after the

Rebranding implementation. The participant is given some grids to rate the brand

linking it (from less than before to more than before) with some adjectives and



characteristics. In this section, the participant is provided with some images

related to Ben Sherman before and after the Rebranding. All this factors impact

(either positively or negatively) on Brand image and Brand conversations, what is

explained in Findings and Conclusions which correspond to chapter four and

chapter five in this paper.

In the fourth question it is aimed to know which is the opinion of the consumers

regarding brand changes. It is asked directly if Ben Sherman is appropriate. It is

also aimed to find out if brand changes impact positively or negatively on “R”

component (Realness) of clothing brands, the brand authenticity.

Last two questions relate to their innovation and perception of coolness regarding

brand technologies and events. The participants are asked about a new initiative;

The Shirt Bar, and about a innovative window display, both visible in some Ben

Sherman stores in London.



3.4 DATA COLLECTION AND DATA PRESENTATION

The data collected from the questionnaires and interviews is structured in

accordance with the theories illustrated in the following diagram (Figure 8). The

enhancers or and promoters of Brand Equity and Brand Leverage, Brand Dimensions

and CRUSH components of Ben Sherman before and after the Rebranding, are rated

by the questionnaire participants and commented by the participant in the interview.

As acknowledged before in this research, Rebranding can have notable effects on

brand perceptions and impact on purchase. Therefore, in order to analyse impact of

Ben Sherman Rebranding, brand equity and brand leverage of the brand are tested

through the questions in the questionnaires.

Brand Equity is tested through the rating of its components, Brand Awareness, Brand

Associations, Purchase Intention and Brand Loyalty which have been identified (before

in this paper) to have and impact on consumer preference and purchase intention. To

go beyond Brand Equity, and not to risk achieving a misleading conclusion influenced

by the first impact of the recent character of the rebranding, brand leverage is tested to

measure brand strength. In other words, how likely is the brand to be sustainable

through the time. Brand leverage, (as explained before in Chapter 2) is mainly created

by the positive effects of a good brand image and conversations that the consumers

have about the brand. Comprehensively, between brand equity and brand leverage

there are infinite relationships.

The following picture (Figure 8) shows the relations found between Brand equity and

Brand leverage: Brand Awareness, Associations and perceived quality create brand

loyalty and impact on Brand equity, which is translated into consumer preference and



purchase intention. Moreover, a positive brand equity enhances Brand image and

Brand Conversations which at the same time are influenced by the CRUSH

components. On the other hand, brand image and conversations about the brand not

only promote the Brand equity but also affect the brand power or strength and its

sustainability through the time.

Consumer-Based

Brand Equity model

CRUSH

model

CRUSH COMPONENTS

BRAND DIMENSIONS

BRAND LEVERAGE BRAND EQUITY

Coolness

Realness

Uniqueness

Self-identification

Happiness

Brand Strength and Sustainability through the time.

Brand Image

Brand Conversations

Consumer preference and Purchase Intention

Brand loyalty

Brand Awareness

Brand Associations

Perceived Quality

Figure 8. Map for the questionnaire and interview design. Integration of Consumer-Based Brand Equity model (before in this paper, p. 32) with the CRUSH model (before in this paper, p. 23).



The data is presented thematically and using quotes from both industry and

consumers. Similarly to how the collection of data is structured, the data is presented in

three different sections as following :

-Male Generation Yers (Section One), which would include consumer behaviour,

performance and characteristics.

-Brand equity (Section Two), which would include the Brand awareness, brand

associations and perceived quality of Ben Sherman brand.

-Brand leverage (Section Three), section and the five dimensions that impact on brand

conversations and brand image. Those are: cool, real, unique, self-brad identification

and positive emotions engendered. The status of the brand would be compared, before

and after the Rebranding actions.

The fact that the questionnaires and the interviews are organised following the same

structure contributes to a better comparison of information between the industry point

of view and what the consumers really think.

Data from questionnaires is analysed through Qualtrics, an online survey program,

which calculates the means and percentages, needed thus assisting the comparison

between the consumer perceptions of the brand and its performance before and after

the rebranding.



3.5 RESEARCH SAMPLE: JUSTIFICATION OF SAMPLE, SIZE AND

CHANNELS OF DISTRIBUTION FOR INTERVIEWS AND

QUESTIONNAIRES

Due to the limitations of time and lack of other resources, the research is

restricted to a small study sample.

The distribution of questionnaires if restricted to the male gender aged between 18-to

35 years old living currently in London. Although the target aimed to study (Male

Generation Y) is currently between the age of 12 and 32 years old it is thought

pertinent to discard to conduct surveys to those younger than the age of 18 (for any

legal issues) and to extent it to the age of 35 as found in the primary research of this

study (Chapter 2) that those males born some years before tend to have similar

behaviour to those of the sample group. The total number of questionnaires distributed

is 100. However, a minimum of 38 valid questionnaires is used to analyse appropriately

the data and extract conclusions.

In order to meet the priorities of the research two different sampling methods serve the

research. Firstly, the probability sample method is used when distributing surveys via

Internet through sites of youth interest and to reach any kind of participant, avoiding the

dominance of a concrete environment close to the surveyor. In the other hand, a

purposive sample method is used to distribute the questionnaires by the researcher

itself in front of two Ben Sherman retail stores in London (Carnaby Street and

Spitafields). This methods allows the researcher to observe the consumers in the retail

place and permits to choose participants of the questionnaire to explain its answers.

This provides a better understanding of the reasons for which the target perceives the

brand in a determined way.



With regard to gathering quantitative data, Hackley (2003: 70-89) advises that the use

of in-depth interviews sometimes provides, inconclusive information, which is very time-

consuming. And thus, in order to avoid any unnecessary data, the interviewed is

provided with a paper that structures the interview in sections. Those are the same

sections (as explained in 3.4. data collection and presentation section of this paper)

listed in the questionnaire for the consumers, what makes the interview shorter and

effective.

3.6 ETHICS

Human rights need to be protected during the research; the data collected from

the research sample has to be treated with honesty and respect. As found appropriate

in Dawson (2009), in order to make the research participants aware of the aims of the

study and to assure the confidentiality and anonymity, a code of ethics is attached to

any paper provided to participants, which includes the following sections: (Adapted

from UAL Research Code of Ethics)

3.6.1 DATA PROTECTION

Data from questionnaires and interviews, which are both distributed via Internet

or held face to face, will be stored in a secure place. This information will not be kept

more than necessary and will be destructed after the final report presentation. The

personal data collected will under no circumstances be used for any other purpose but

for the final report of this research. Moreover, the information provided in interviews or

questionnaires would not be disclosed directly to third parties. It is guaranteed that the

researcher will comply with the Data Protection Act 1998.



3.6.2 PRIVACY, CONFIDENTIALITY AND SECURITY

It is guaranteed that no names or addresses will be used in the final report, or used to

store or categorise information, ensuring the protection of the participants from any

tracking back to them by third parties.

In the case of the interview, the name or identity of the participant is not made public.

Instead is used its position in the company concerning the research. The information

held, will be kept locked until its destruction after the final report presentation, and it is

ensured that only authorised persons or systems will have access to information.

3.7 LIMITATIONS OF THE RESEARCH

The limited scope of the studied sample and subjectivity of the methods used

would be narrowed by the triangulated approach. However, the theories derived from

the findings of the investigation must be written with caution, as it has to be balanced

whether the answers of the samples would be different or not in different situations. It

has to be taken into account that the fashion brand that concerns this research has

undergone the changes recently; therefore, conclusions must be written with caution,

as it may be too early to define long-lasting or not misleading results.



3.8 CHAPTER SUMMARY

A post-positivist approach was used to serve the research with a combination of

both qualitative and quantitative methods. A triangulated approach was chosen in

accordance with the post-positivist methodologies aiming to reach the maximum grade

of objectivity. To conduct an action research was found pertinent to serve the

investigation with the real case of Ben Sherman Rebranding to epitomise the

investigation issues. Accordingly, males from 18 to 35 year old living in London were

selected as the target population for the survey. Probability sampling method was used

to distribute surveys through Internet, while purposive sampling was used when

conducting the questionnaires in the street in front of Ben Sherman retail stores in

London.

On the other hand, a semi-structured interview to brand communications manager of

Ben Sherman was conducted to obtain data from the brand. Participants voluntarily

participated in the study and had the opportunity to withdraw at any stage. Informed

consent was obtained from the participants to participate in the study. An online

computer program Qualtrics was used to assist with the data analysis. An in depth

description of data analysis and interpretation is given in the following chapter.



4 RESEARCH FINDINGS: ANALYSIS AND DISCUSSION

In this chapter the data from both the questionnaires and interviews with the

brand managers are analysed and discussed using cross tabulation of each question.

This approach has been used to distinguish trends and patterns that are common

amongst the participants of the survey.

Data based on the industry and its consumers formulates a triangulated approach in

order to represent both perspectives of the study and reach reliable conclusions.



4.1 QUESTIONNAIRE FINDINGS:

The sample of the questionnaire is the representation of the target audience

required for the investigation: The Generation Y Male consumers. The participants of

the questionnaire are males aged between 18 and 35 years old and currently living in

London. Out of all the questionnaires conducted, 35 were found valid to be evaluated.

The data from surveys is distributed in three sections, consumer behaviour

(performance and characteristics), brand equity and brand leverage. These sections

are presented in order to evaluate the impact and reaction of a rebrand, before and

after the redesign, on Male Generation Y.



4.1.1 SECTION ONE: CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR, PERFORMANCE AND

CHARACTERISTICS: TWO SORT OF CONSUMERS.

The primary research provided a total of 35 valid questionnaires. The sample

used for the analysis corresponded to the profile of a male aged between 18 and 35

years old who is currently living in London.

According to the data that the 35 valid questionnaires provide, there are two main

groups of consumers with regard to their relation to fashion: those who are not

interested in fashion trends or innovativeness (named NIFT within this paper, see

glossary); and those who consider themselves fashion followers or trendsetters

(named FFT within this paper, see glossary). Among the 35 participants, just over half

(18) stated not to be interested in fashion trends or innovativeness (NIFT). The other

17 participants considered themselves fashion followers and trendsetters.

Figure 9. Classification of 35 survey participants based on their relation to fashion

Despite the fact that just a few participants had purchased a product from Ben

Sherman, the questionnaire findings still revealed that consumers of Ben Sherman



changed with the rebranding. Out of the 35 participants, just 10 confirmed to be

customers of the brand. The ones that stated to have stopped purchasing after the

rebrand were in general less interested in fashion (most of them stated to be NIFT).

The ones that are more recent or current customers of Ben Sherman felt more linked to

fashion trends and innovativeness (as most of them stated to be FFT).

Figure 10. Classification of the 35 survey participants based upon whether they had purchase in Ben

Sherman or not

Figure 11. Subclassification of the 10 survey participants that had purchased in Ben Sherman before or

after the rebranding based on their relation to fashion



Indeed, due to the classification of the consumers according to their relation to fashion,

results from the survey found similarities within the participants of the same group

concerning consumer behaviour performance and preferences. It was relevant to know

what the generalised preferences and behaviours were of both types of consumers in

order to compare it with brand strategy and performance. Additionally, this information

may reveal the reasons why a brand appears appealing or not to consumers.

As discussed previously in the literature review (section 2.2.4), some practitioners and

academics found pertinent evidence to create different lines of products to cover the

diversity of styles (Odgen-Barnes, 2011; Bergh and Behrer 2011). Supporting this idea,

the results from the questionnaire show that a 65.7% of the 35 people surveyed prefer

brands with more products lines. Indeed, it is found that most (88.2%) of the FFT (17

people) liked this approach from the brands.

Moreover, the FFT are more prone to accept brand changes in fittings and style due to

their brand attachment and following of fashion trends and innovativeness. Such

characteristics may have relation with the fact that most consumers that purchase in

Ben Sherman after the rebrand (and thus, after the changes), are from the FFT group.

On the other hand, the other 18 NIFT profiled participants, who were the consumers

that stopped purchasing from Ben Sherman after the rebrand, appear to be less

accepting of the brand changes in fitting and style. Supporting that, the results from the

survey reveal that a 77.8% reacted negatively to such brand attachment to fashion.

It has been suggested (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009; Underhill, 2008), to avoid large

quantities of stock when targeting Gen Y males. Per contra, just 31.43% of the 35

participants of the survey found looking through large quantities of stock stressing.



Moreover, 50% of the NIFT participants surveyed absolutely disagreed to finding it

stressing.

As commented on previously, in the literature review (p.31), the success of some

retailers such as Urban Outfitters has been linked (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009) to

their appealing store environment. The store is full of merchandising with which to

discover and interact with – an idea that resulted in being appealing to at least 60% of

the participants of the survey.

On the other hand, one third of all FFT consumers stated to be disgusted by the idea of

buying clothes surrounded by other items. This may be due to their high interest in

particular trends, and thus are logically less interested in other items in the store.



4.1.2 SECTION TWO: BRAND EQUITY

4.1.2.1 BRAND AWARENESS

One of the most evident facts that the survey revealed regarding brand

awareness is that more than the 80% of the 35 participants surveyed were unable to

distinguish the Ben Sherman brand from their competitors. As commented in the

introduction, this confusion between lifestyle brands that follow similar trends may be

due to the oversaturation of the fashion market (Petburikul, 2009). Indeed most

competitors of Ben Sherman have similar logos, packaging and sometimes even store

environments, due to their aim to appeal to similar target audiences (Wheeler, 2009;

Berg & Behrer, 2011). For instance, seven participants of the survey confused the

brand especially with Fred Perry, and two other participants with Paul Smith.

Figure 12. Comparison of logos of the brands that compete in the same market of Ben Sherman.

In spite of that, as noted before in that study, it is recommended for brands to appeal to

a wider and more diverse target audience. This will in return make the image of the

brand more versatile. Accordingly, the lack of an adequate description of character and

or brand image may be another reason of this confusion amongst consumers.

Though, as changes within a brand are costly, brands should ensure to maximise their

return on investment through effective communication of campaigns. Per contra, Ben

Sherman’s evolution has been unnoticed by many of the participants. 72 % out of the

35 surveyed were not aware of the latest evolution of Ben Sherman. The only change



noticed by the other 38% was the change in logo, packaging and store environment.

This is most likely because they have seen it directly in store and thus evidence that

the brand, through bad marketing, is losing the opportunity to attract new consumers to

the store.

Figure 13. Participants awareness of Ben Sherman Rebranding

According to the surveys, a large quantity of participants believed that changes within

brands are appropriate, however, 24% of the 35 participants found the rebranding of

Ben Sherman too radical. As advised before in this paper (Gilmore and Pine, 2007;

Wheeler, 2009; Bergh and Behrer, 2011) when brands evolve and innovate they

should never lose their original spirit. Being clear about the DNA of a brand reinforces

the perception of transparency, authenticity and uniqueness that costumers have of the

brand. This impacts on brand leverage. Gen Y males perceive brands as persons

(Bergh and Behrer, 2011) and thus, any too radical changes may be interpreted as a

loss of personality or authenticity (Beverland in Bergh & Behrer, 2011) and in the case

of Ben Sherman, are the important factors perceived by their customers.



4.1.2.2 BRAND ASSOCIATIONS

Brand origins have been found (Bergh & Ruyck, 2011) to be a differentiator

element that portraits authenticity. Thus, represents an advantage for Ben Sherman, a

fact that the 78% out of the 35 respondents knew where the brand came from

represents evidence for this. Moreover, those participants who confused the brand with

other countries of origin, linked it with countries such as Germany, Switzerland or

America, which are generally valued for its fashion design and quality.

Brand origins have been found (Bergh & Ruyck, 2011) to be an important element that

portrays authenticity. This is an advantage for Ben Sherman as 78% of the 35

respondents knew where the brand came. Moreover, those participants who confused

the brands country of origin confused the brand with countries such as Germany,

Switzerland or America, who are generally valued for their fashion design and quality.

According to Low and Lamb (2000), successful brands tend to exhibit more developed

structures of brand associations than unfamiliar brands. More concretely, Grant (2006)

found that Gen Y Males, convert a product into an emblem of membership amongst a

youth clan, for its origins or meaning. For this reason, it is found relevant that more

than half of the participants surveyed linked Ben Sherman to their famous shirts. On

the other hand, it has to be noted that the brand has been also linked with other

products such as polos and jeans. This may be the result of the introduction of new

clothing lines in order to appeal to wider audiences.

Results from the survey reveal that most participants feel more identified with the brand

that provides them the opportunity to express and reaffirm their values and personality

(see section 4.2.3.4 Self-Identification of CRUSH components analysis). Thus, brands



that aim to connect with a concrete target audience should reflect their values and

interests.

Similarly to what is stated above about the products, Ben Sherman appears to be

linked, by the participants of the survey, with activities such as music and other

subcultures. On the other hand, a trend has been noticed within those who never

purchased from the brand. They link it with celebrities. This reveals the success of their

brand sponsorship program, in any case it may be reconsidered that any changes are

aimed to appeal to that target audience as well.

Figure 14. Concepts that participants associate with Ben Sherman brand.



4.1.2.3 PERCEIVED QUALITY

As seen in the literature review, the perceived quality of a brand has been

identified as an intangible value for the brand. It contributes to the creation of brand

equity, loyalty and leads to purchase intention due to the increase of value to the

products (Pappu et al, 2005; Bergh and Behrer, 2011). On the other hand, brands that

appear to be linked with terms such as cheap or impatience are perceived as less cool

and therefore less appealing to youth due to their desire to be original (Ferguson,

2010). Ben Sherman’s evolution strategy clearly aimed to achieve a more premium

position and according to the results of the surveyed, it succeeded, as the perception

of cheapness and impatience that the 35 participants had of the brand decreased by

5% after the rebranding.



4.1.3 SECTION THREE: BRAND LEVERAGE: CRUSH COMPONENTS

4.1.3.1 COOLNESS

The perception of coolness has been associated to the art, design and

originality of a brand. Therefore, the fact that brand evolution is in itself an innovation, it

is natural that the perception of innovativeness that the participants had of the brand

after the rebrand increased by 28.6% (see figure 15).

On the other hand, the results of the survey illustrated in figure 15, show lower

percentages of increase regarding honesty and originality (10%), when comparing the

brand before and after the rebranding. This fact can be related to the nature of the

rebranding itself. It has been stated that when undergoing brand changes, brand

values and philosophy must be treated with caution; otherwise a brands can risk losing

their originality and heritage. Moreover, Transparency is particularly valuable for Gen Y

Males and the fact that Ben Sherman has steadily evolved without making consumers

aware of it (see lower rates of rebranding awareness in previous section) may confuse

them.



Figure 15. Changes regarding the perception of "Coolness" that participants had of the

brand before and after the Rebranding

The chart illustrates the increase of the coolness indicators (Trendy, innovation,

Heritage, Craftsmanship, Honesty and originality) in accordance to the perception that

participants had of the brand after undergoing the changes.

4.1.3.2 REALNESS

Despite the efforts of Ben Sherman to appear authentic and real to consumers

(as stated above) the participants of the survey weren’t convinced that the brand was a

lot more authentic after the rebranding. As the brand was changed it could haven been

interpreted as a “fake buy” (Bergh and Behrer, 2011:87) of reality or authenticity.

On the other hand, heritage and craftsmanship are related to long-lasting brands with a

story and experience, and thus the implementation of trendy packaging, new



technology in stores and a geometrical style to the logo may have an affect on the

perception that consumers have of the “new” brand.

Despite this it would be understandable that the participants had a low perception of

heritage, taking into account the recent implementation of character changes.

However, the linear chart that displays changes regarding perceptions of “realness”

over time still illustrates that the participants associate the brand more now (17.4%)

with the concept of heritage than before the changes.

In any case, these factors of success amongst youth brands may be acquired through

genuine strategy to link, successfully, the brand to celebrities, music and other

experiences (Bergh & Behrer, 2011). These strategies, not only recalls to authenticity,

but to also create buzz and generate brand history for the future (Heritage).

Figure 16. Changes regarding the perception of "Realness" that participants had of the

brand before and after the Rebranding.



4.1.3.3 UNIQUENESS

As discussed previously in the literature review (section 2.2.4), some elements

of the brand such as packaging, brand logo, events and advertising have been

identified (Bergh and Behrer, 2011) as the appropriate way to expose brand values and

philosophy. Those elements have been found to lead to uniqueness and support a

consistent positioning in the fashion industry (Wheeler, 2009).

The participants found the new brand image more boring (8%) than the previous one.

The reason may be that the new positioning of Ben Sherman may aim to a more

mature and selective group than before and at the same time less playful. Results

from the survey prove that Generation Y male consumers value creativity and

originality. The participants of the questionnaire found the new brand image and

environments more appealing, which may be due to its innovative design.

Despite Ben Sherman efforts in offering new product lines to engage other target

groups, the results from the survey suggests that they seem at risk to losing potential

consumers due to the boring and formal features that create the environment (Bergh et

al., 2011).

Figure 17. Changes regarding the perception of "Uniqueness" that participants had of the brand before

and after the Rebranding.



4.1.3.4 SELF-IDENTIFICATION

Brands aiming to target Gen Y Males have the opportunity to appeal to wider

audiences (see section 2.2.4). Brands should be aware and mirror the values of all the

audiences they try to target, as they the consumers will choose brands that best fit their

personality (Bergh and Behrer, 2011; Kapferer, 2001).

Data from the surveys reveal a trend related with how the Gen Y Males connect with

brands (see section 2.2.4, Classification of brands according to (Bergh et al, 2011).

P.34 of this document) 50% of Gen Y Males surveyed (35) felt more identified with

brands that enhance their self-expression and personality.

However, there is a contrast between those who used to purchase from Ben Sherman

before the rebrand and those who are current customers. The first ones (66%),

generally felt more identified with those brands explained above. In contrast, the

participants who are current customers of Ben Sherman, generally (60%) felt more

identified with the brands that promote challenge and experimentation. This may reflect

a change on the target audience caused by the changes undergone by the brand.

According to the data provided, participants felt more identified with brands that

promote ethics and consciousness, it may be suggested that the Ben Sherman brand

is generally not appealing to them as just one out of seven purchased any item from

the brand.



4.1.3.5 HAPPINESS

Due to the assumed need of hedonism of Generation Y (Yarrow and O’Donnell,

2009; Bergh and Behrer, 2011), brands targeting them will struggle to keep their

attention. For instance, Ben Sherman proposes, with other changes, a new customer

service on which customers are assessed regarding shirt tailoring in a peculiar

ambient: - “The Shirt Bar”. This use of customer service may provide positive customer

feedback, this will not only lead to brand awareness but also constructs emotional

bonds with the consumer, and therefore increases brand loyalty and leverage (Bergh

and Behrer, 2011).

However, the results from the questionnaire reveal a low awareness amongst the

surveyed. 60% of the 35 surveyed stated not to be aware of the initiative. 5% of the

participants in the survey found it useless, while the other 95% agreed in the originality

and usefulness of the service.

On the other hand, as emotions are found to have a direct impact on consumer

decision-making, it is recommended to the brands (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009) to

create events or experiences providing pleasure and gratification. For instance, Ben

Sherman, in accordance with the latest premium and design-led brand strategy,

creates an interactive and playful window display, which, within the participants of this

research had a big success. 70% of the 35 surveyed found it at least engaging and

others showed their surprise and expressed their opinions. For instance:

“Really? It sounds really innovative and funny!“ (Anonymous Participant)

“I like when brands do not see us just like the ones who come to spend money”

(Anonymous Participant)



“I was going to Carnaby Street. Now I will go straight to see it!” (Anonymous

Participant)

With the implementation of these and other strategies, the sample that served this

research perceived overall that the brand provided them with a slightly more (6,4%)

feeling of happiness more now than before the changes.

Figure 18. Changes regarding the perception of "Happiness" that participants had of the brand before and

after the Rebranding



4.2 INTERVIEW FINDINGS

The Brand Manager and Brand communications manager answered the

questions of the interview together. Thus, a united point of view is provided on behalf of

the brand. The sample of the interview is representative of the fashion industry and is

needed in order to understand brand strategy and evolution.

The information from the interview given from the brand communications manager is

divided in four sections. Brand strategy, rebranding drivers, rebranding strategy and

expected rebranding outcomes. These sections are designed in accordance to the

aspects of the brand, and are to be analysed in order to evaluate the return of

investment on the evolution that Ben Sherman has undergone recently.

4.2.1 SECTION ONE: BRAND STRATEGY

The interview supported the CRUSH branding model from Bergh and Behrer

(2011) when describing Ben Sherman’s philosophy and character (DNA): -“A heritage

of modernism; the enduring quest for the new and the next. It’s authentic, honest and

British” (B.M; 2012)-. Such a statement summarises some of the key concepts of

successful youth brands (see Figure 2. CRUSH Branding Model) discussed in this

paper.

As stated by Berg and Behrer (2011) those brand characteristics have been defined by

the interviewee as an indicator of Brand Leverage: -“..what has driven Ben Sherman

forward since 1963”- (B.M; 2012).



Thus, is supporting the theory acknowledged in the Literature Review of this paper,

which states that positive results of the CRUSH Branding Model are an indicator of a

sustainable brand: -“Few brands have remained as loved or as relevant for 50 years”

(Interviewee referring to Ben Sherman brand leverage)-.

According to what was stated in the interview, the brand differentiator element is linked

to how the brand values itself: -“A unique history and heritage in music and fashion”.

Consequently, the brand appears appealing to the Gen Y Males, according to one of

the two definitions found of authenticity for which the term is linked to that of origin and

history (Gilmore and Pine, 2007). On the other hand, according to a more current

definition proposed by Bergh and Behrer (2011), youngsters relate authenticity to

honesty and transparency, which may be affected negatively by the recent changes

undergone by the brand. A fact that may be balanced after the brand evolution is

implemented completely. In any case, it has been found that this authenticity is a driver

of buying intention and perception of brand originality.

According to their values, as stated above, its target audiences are seen to be 25-40

year old successful urban and fashion savvy males who are interested in music and

design. Ben Sherman’s brand aims to maintain a premium position that has been

reflected by its packaging, store environments and new technologies. Thus it is

reflected in its product and price: “whilst we always strive for great design, quality of

fabric and production is equally as important to us, and our prices reflect that”.

Supporting the strategy of the brand; it has been found (Underhill, 2009) that Gen Y

Males are prone to pay premium prices if the brand results in appealing to them.



4.2.2 SECTION TWO: ABOUT REBRANDING DRIVERS

Not surprisingly, when asked regarding the motives of the rebranding, it is first

noted by the interviewee that what the brand has recently done is undergone an

evolution. These terms, with others, have been noted in the literature review as a

subject of discern. This is due to the concern of how to refer to the changes undergone

by the brand, as they depend on which areas of the brand are modified. However, the

Brand Manager gives a justification for the use of the term:

“What we have recently undergone has been an evolution, and all brands,

labels, corporations or pop stars need to evolve in order to remain relevant, and

that’s just what we’ve done here”(B.M; 2012).

This explanation may relate to the fact that a brand that changes may risk to face

consumers thinking that it lacks authenticity. It has been found in any case that the

brand changes are too notorious and a pertinent advertising strategy is not set and the

brand may risk confusing consumers (see questionnaire findings, 4.1.2.1).

Secondly, it is explained why these changes were necessary for the brand:

“As decades go by and fashion changes, our collections had evolved and our

stores looked different, so it was only natural to apply this evolution to the logo

too. The new logo has helped contemporise the whole look and feel of the

brand” (B.M; 2012).

This statement agrees with the most common motives for rebranding, noted previously

in this paper by different academics and practitioners. However it has to be noticed that

brand products and the overall image seems to appeal to a different target audience

from before (see questionnaire findings 4.1.1).



4.2.3 SECTION THREE: REBRANDING STRATEGY

Brand changes were first noted through the “Plectrum by Ben Sherman

Collection” which was introduced for AW11 collection. It is explained by the interviewee

that other changes amongst the brands identity are expected within the time, as the

brand evolution has been defined as an ”on-going process”. Additionally, it is noted that

due to the notorious size of the brand, to harmonise all aspects of the business globally

will still take some time.

Supporting theories acknowledged in the literature review, and in the interview, noted

with regard to the impact of rebranding ”from labelling to advertising”, all elements must

be considered in order to “ensure consistency of the message” (B.M; 2012). Moreover,

it is explained that it is aimed at a more premium offering, this is in accordance with

their new target audience, which in the case of Ben Sherman has been described in

the interview as a men who appreciates style and design and is seeking out something

new, but also, respects provenance and admires “genuine heritage” (B.M; 2012).

Indeed, the brand seems to succeed (according to the results of the questionnaires) in

engaging the public through original customer services and other technologies offered

in store, however as stated previously, the brand may have to rethink the need to

explain the changes to the consumers, despite their insistence in the moderate nature

of their changes.

Indeed, the brand states to communicate changes to their stakeholders. It is said that

the channels they use are still the same as their previous strategies; the brand uses a

multichannel communication strategy, which includes:



“events and gigs, harnessing our heritage in music, digital and social media

activity and engagement, traditional PR and advertising as well as experiential

and in-store” (B.M; 2012).

On the other hand they may have to rethink the channels, as a brand evolves and as

stated by the interviewee, the target audience changes.

4.2.4 SECTION FOUR: REBRANDING EXPECTED OUTCOMES

According to what is reported in the interview, the reactions to the changes to

the brand have been generally positive. Indeed, the interviewee reported some

examples:

“The way the evolution has been received differs between groups. GQ (UK,

sept. ’12) heralded it as “..The most impressive brand reincarnation we’ve seen

in a long time”, blogs like minimal have praised the updated logo and new look

packaging, resulting in the general reaction as being positive. ”(B.M; 2012).

Regarding consumer response in store, the brand manager said that they are

genuinely very impressed due to: product offering and the entire retail experience, from

the store design to the staff.

Regarding to the changes in their targeting strategy the interviewee stated it to be

natural when evolving a brand, for example in the introduction of new collections. As

stated previously in the literature review (Odgen-Barnes, 2011; Taylor and Cosenza,

2002; Goldgehn, 2004; Bergh et al, 2011), the interviewee expresses the importance to

aim to a wider and more varied consumer base, which would also lead to greater sales

and brand awareness.



“We have now have several collections that cater for different consumers. The

more contemporarily minded modernist can shop Plectrum, whilst those looking

for an easy-to-wear piece that will look great can opt for British Wardrobe

Staples. Then we have tailoring for the sartorial, and Duke Street Foundry for

the traditionalists” (B.M; 2012).

According to this statement, Ben Sherman’s brand seems to implement the same

strategy as other retailers, which have been stated (Bergh & Behrer, 2011) to be as

successful as other youth brands such as H&M. With their aim to attract a wider public

offering by producing more product lines, according to different styles that Gen Y Males

showcase nowadays.

With the aim of attracting a new audience the brand still appears to be aware of the

importance of not losing the previous target audience:

“ We know ‘Plectrum by Ben Sherman’ isn’t for the more traditional

modernists, but then we have Duke Street Foundry that caters for our long-

term supporters; a collection inspired by our heritage pieces and proudly made

here in England” (B.M; 2012).

In the interview it is stated that the collection that aims to target the previous consumer

is named “proudly made in England” and inspired by “heritage pieces”. This signifies

that country of origin and heritage are the two factors used to engage its previous

target audience.

Despite this, this consumer seems to be ignored in the store environment. The other

DNA portrayers of the brand have to be designed (Yarrow and O’Donnell, 2009) with

regard to this “old” customer as well, and not only for the new aspired consumers.

Unless Ben Sherman plans to slowly phase out such target audiences for any reason.



Finally, when the Brand Manger was asked about percentages invested on current

and expected outcomes of the brand changes, no specific or numeric answer was

given. This may be due to the brand attachment to a wider group and therefore any

financial situation has to be commented directly from the group that owns the

brand: Oxord Industries Ltd.

Despite this impossibility to comment on percentages, it has been explained in the

interview that the brand monitors Return on Investment on “marketing and press

activity, and obviously sales figures and the like” (B.M; 2012).

On measuring returns, the interviewee highlighted that it is more difficult measuring

the ROI in relation to only the rebrand then it is in direct relation to marketing and

press. As stated in the interview:

“We monitor ROI on all marketing and press, but it’s more difficult to measure

the actual ROI directly attributable to the recent changes the brand has

undergone” (B.M; 2012).

This fact has been more clearly discussed in the literature review of this paper. It has

been noted by some practitioners (Kapferer, 2004; Stuart & Muzellec, 2004) that it may

be necessary more than two years to conclude if a rebrand has succeeded or not.



4.3 CHAPTER SUMMARY

In the study, two subgroups of consumers were found within Generation Y

males in regard to their relation to fashion. These two sorts of consumers were found

to have common behavioural patterns and preferences. Due to this classification of the

participants, it was noted that Ben Sherman’s brand resulted in appealing more to one

group before the rebranding, and to the other, after the rebranding. This it found that

target consumers of Ben Sherman had changed. Indeed, it was also found that the

brand had evolved, taking into account the two types of consumers, by extending the

product lines. It was found that the brand defined the changes undergone as a natural

evolution, more than a rebranding, this may be part of the strategy for not losing the

perception of heritage, authenticity, realness and originality that consumers have of the

brand. However, it has been found that the brand may lack the proper channels to

connect with consumers, as the study demonstrates a worrying lack of brand

awareness with regard to their evolution, initiatives, events and new services.

Results show that the brand succeeded in the implementation of some strategies such

as increasing the perceived quality and affinity. The brand appeared to the consumers

as innovative and appealing. Store environments and image in general were found

boring. Moreover, it was found that brand image lacked personality and was confused

by most of the Gen Y Males with other brands, mainly its competitors.

Despite the brand stating to measure the return on marketing strategies, the brand was

unable to provide any data regarding the outcomes that the brand evolution strategy

provided. Thus, some recommendations were made in the conclusions chapter, in

relation to a model created for the purpose of this study, to address the measurement

of the ROI of a rebrand within the fashion industry targeting Males of the Generation Y

consumer group.



5 CONCLUSIONS

Based on the findings of the research (Chapter Four) this post-positivist

research analysed the impact of the changes amongst Ben Sherman’s brand on the

target consumer. The study was concretely aiming to find which are the perceptions of

the target consumer (Male Generation Y) regarding the brand before and after the

rebranding implementation.

The study was particularly seeking to find the most reliable way to measure the

outcomes of rebranding strategies within the fashion industry isolated from any other

factors. The triangulated approach provided a reliable method to investigate and

analyse the landscape from both the industry and consumer side, leading to the

conclusions and recommendations based on the study purpose, objectives and

findings.



5.1 INTRODUCTION

Chapter One outlined a set of four objectives this chapter will discuss how they

have been achieved in the dissertation:

5.1.1 OBJECTIVE ONE:

Explore the characteristics of the Generation Y and its consumer behaviour.

First objective was achieved through revising the importance of this target market

within the fashion industry. The characteristics of this generation of consumers were

analysed and related to their behaviour when purchasing. This needed a continuous

comparison with the branding strategies to capture their attention which where

proposed by different academics and practitioners. CRUSH Branding Model from

Bergh and Behrer (2011) presented the 5 factors of success to target the Generation Y

of consumers.

5.1.2 OBJECTIVE TWO:

Explore the rebranding implications over the marketing mix in the fashion

industry.

In order to reach the second objective, rebranding drivers (Kapferer, 2001; Wheeler,

2009), goals (Muzellec et al, 2003; Muzellec and Lambkin, 2006) and strategies

(Kapferer, 2001; Torella, 2007; Stuart and Muzellec, 2004) were revised and

contrasted with common practices and execution. Moreover, it had to be analysed the

aspects of the brand that are affected by a rebranding: Brand Equity (Figure 4) and

Brand Leverage (Figure 3). This included the revision of common practices within the

fashion industry where different sorts of brand changes where discussed (Wheeler,



2009; Kapferer, 2001:115; Aaker,1991; Keller, 2002; LaForet & Saunders 1994). This

means that it was contrasted the theory of the strategies with the practical cases and

experts from the field.

5.1.3 OBJECTIVE THREE:

Explore the discussions about the measurement of the Return on Investment of

rebranding.

This objective was achieved through the revision of different models used to measure

the outcomes of a rebranding. According to academics and practitioners referenced in

section 2.3 of the literature review, different methods were found appropriate

depending on whether they were based on the consumer perspective, or the industry

perspective. This objective was particularly achieved successfully as a new model was

designed in order to isolate the rebranding returns from any other factors. This new

model was created through the fusion of two different models that lead to a reliable

model to measure the intangible returns of a rebranding, which after leaded to the

tangible values.

The figure below illustrates the new model which integrate:

The Consumer-Based Brand Equity Model (Pappu et al, 2005), which related brand

awareness, brand associations, perceived quality to brand loyalty;

And the CRUSH Branding Model (Bergh and Behrer, 2011), which related different

characteristics that successful brands have to the generation of brand leverage.



The measurement of Brand Equity and the CRUSH factors before and after a

rebranding were found to be an appropriate method to measure the success of a

rebranding as it was based on consumer perception and planned action, without

measuring sales volumes or other variants which can be influenced by external factors.

Figure 19. New Model. Integration of Consumer-Based Brand Equity model (Figure 4) with the CRUSH model (Figure 3).



5.1.4 OBJECTIVE FOUR:

Analyse the success of Ben Sherman ROI, in terms of tangible and intangible

values for the rebranding strategy in relation to Generation Y perspective and make

recommendations for rebranding in the fashion industry for this sector.

According to the model explained in objective three, the success of Ben Sherman was

examined through the questionnaires to consumers, which revealed its perception of

the brand before and after the rebranding together with the contributions of the brand

manager of Ben Sherman which explained their strategy and aims for what they call

“brand evolution”.

5.2 INDUSTRY IMPLICATIONS

The study detected that the brand is generally aware of the preferences and

behaviour of the upcoming Generation Y Male consumers. On the other hand, it was

noticed that despite the popularity of the brand, due to its heritage and previous status

as an emblem of membership of some subcultures, the current level of connection with

consumers appeared to be very low, and thus affecting the brand’s conversations,

awareness and leverage (Pappu et al , 2005). A very worrying issue is found regarding

brand confusion with its competitors. New image of the brand, store environments and

product line were found to have a lack of personality and character, and thus being

perceived less authentic and original to the consumers (Bergh and Behrer, 2011).

Moreover, the brand image has been found slightly more boring but more appealing

after re-branding. Consequently, the brand may rethink for instance, to play with

packaging and store environment to make it less boring (Yarrow O’Donnell, 2009).



Due to the sub-classification (Figure 11) of the Gen Y of male consumers, it is found

that the rebrand results are more appealing to those who are trendsetters and fashion

followers. What this represents is an advantage to generate free marketing and attract

more fashion followers, which in return gives a cool status to the brand. On the other

hand, the study found that despite the brand efforts to target different consumer groups

(through the extension of lines and modernisation of brands DNA and image) it has not

resulted in appealing to the ones considered not to be interested in fashion trends.

These are the consumers that used to purchase from the brand before the changes.

Brand new initiatives seem to have a wide acceptance amongst Gen Y males, but

research also shows that consumers do not use the new services or the new

technologies because of the lack of awareness. Conclusively, the brand may need to

consider a new way to re-communicate (Kapferer, 2001; Torella, 2007) with their

consumers. In other words, the brand may adapt its “likely-to-succeed” brand evolution

to a new communication plan and channels, as it appears to be a major problem. Ben

Sherman should consider whether all the aimed targets audiences are reachable

through the channels used to communicate. It may be the burden that keeps the brand

from succeeding and maximising its returns.

5.3 ACADEMIC IMPLICATIONS

This research study provided a model to measure the return of investment of

fashion rebranding for brands aiming to target the upcoming Generation Y Males,

which is already starting to be targeted by many brands. This This research study

provided a model to measure the return of investment of fashion rebranding for brands

aiming to target the upcoming Generation Y Males, which is already starting to be

targeted by many brands. This consisted in the integration of a model to measure

customer-based brand equity (Pappu et al, 2005) and the CRUSH branding model

(Bergh and Behrer, 2011), which rates brand leverage. (See Figure 8.).



Brand awareness, associations and perceived quality create brand loyalty and impact

on brand equity, which is translated into consumer preference and purchase intention

(intangible returns). Moreover, positive brand equity enhances brand image and brand

conversations, which at the same time are influenced by the CRUSH components.

The CRUSH components were found to be the crucial attributes to succeed amongst

the Generation Y males, and a brand leverage enhancer (intangible returns). And

finally, these intangible returns; consumer preference, purchase intention and the

brand leverage; are found to have a direct impact on the tangible returns; sales. Such

model represents a contribution to the field, as stated previously it can be used in order

to measure success isolating it from any other external factors. It may be used in

addition to the CRUSH Branding Model (see Figure 2).

Figure 20. Impact of intangible returns on the Intangible returns to explain the return of the investment in

rebranding.



5.4 LIMITATIONS OF THE STUDY

Due to funding and time constraints the research is limited to a reduced sample

localised in London. The information that the brand provides is restrained somehow,

and financial issues regarding investments are not revealed. Due to the recent

character of the rebranding, the research findings may differ if the study is conducted

one year ahead. After the total implementation of the brand it may rectify or change

strategy. Also, there was only one point of view was provided from the brand. Due to

brand policies, store managers were not allowed to talk on behalf of the brand, and

thus, no closer point of view to the consumer is taken into account. On the other hand,

the triangulated approach consisting in results from questionnaires and information

from the interview served the study to counteract weaknesses and achieve reliable

conclusions and thus pertinent recommendations.

5.5 RECOMMENDATIONS FOR FURTHER RESEARCH

Further research may be concerning in regards to the rebranding impact on the

Gen Y Male consumers, and the return on investment in such strategies within the

fashion industry. Future investigations may take place one year ahead to contrast the

information from the one that this study provided. It may also include larger samples

within a wider geographic area. Moreover, it may be interesting to contrast the findings

from the research of this paper with the financial results regarding investments and the

end of year returns from the group that owns the Ben Sherman brand (Oxford

Industries).

Further research regarding the channels used to diffuse brand values and

communicate changes within the brand may be interesting in order to find out whether

they represent a disadvantage for the brand, or if they diminish the outcomes of the



rebrand. Finally any research regarding the recommendations made in this study may

constitute an important step forward.



6 ANNEXURES

6.1 SURVEYS CONDUCTED

Male Female

London Other

Some kind of trendsetter or innovator A fashion Follower Not really interested in fashion trends or innovativeness

Just the first one Just the second one

Yes, both of them: None of them

Yes, more than 2 years ago Yes, NOT more than 2 years ago No Yes, before and still now

Germany England Scotland Switzerland America Other :

Belts & Bags Jeans Suits & Tailoring Shirts Polos Coats and Jackets Knitwear

music culture sports politics celebrities subculture Other:

CONSUMER BEHAVIOUR, PERFORMANCE AND CHARACTERISTICS

Gender

Age

Born before 1976. (Over 35 y.o.) Between 1976-1994. (18-35 y.o.) After 1994. (Under 18.)

Currently living in..

In relation to fashion, i consider myself..

When buying clothes..

Agree

NeitherAgree norDisagree Disagree

I like to find different styles and trends

I like that brands change fitting and style season after season

I like to find similar items when i come back to the same store

I like to find a lot of stock and colours where to choose

I get stressed if i find a lot of items in store

I like to find other items such as books, magazines or cameras on which imay be interested

BRAND EQUITY: Rating Brand Dimensions

Please write if Could you recognise the clothing brands of the images?

Have you ever purchased any Ben Sherman product?

Where would you say BEN SHERMAN clothing comes from?

In your opinion, which of the following products is more related with the brand?

With what CONCEPTS or ACTIVITIES do you link the brand with?

https://dc-viawest.qualtrics.com/ControlPanel/PopUp.php?PopType=SurveyPrintPreview&WID=_blank

1 de 4 22/10/12 19:17



Products Image: Logo, Packaging Retail Store atmosphere Website atmosphere Staff

Philosophy and way of doing in general Window displays Not at all

Identity. Find out who I am and who I wanna be.

Consciousness. I wanna make the world a better place.

Challenge, Experiment, reach my objectives.

Have you noticed any CHANGES regarding to BEN SHERMAN's...?

BRAND LEVERAGE: Rating CRUSH components

One of the reasons for which we may become loyal to some brands is because we may identify with their values.To which statement you agree the most with, regarding to your relation or connection with clothing brands?What do you look for in their values that is in accordance with yours?

Here there are some images regarding the Ben sherman changes.

Ben Sherman Before the Re-branding Ben Sherman After the Re-branding

Please rate the following according to the images shown above:(1-5 ) Less to more..

BEFORE Re-branding AFTER Re-branding

1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

Cheap/impatient

Trendy, Innovative, "Cool"

Authentic, Real

Honest, Original and Genuine

Craftsmanship, Heritage..

Emotive: Funny, Happy.

1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

Heritage

Into music, design and culture

Into technologies social stuff ingeneral

How much YOU feel identifiedwith Brand values/ style?

How much APPEALING?

How LIKELY TO BUY any BenSherman products?


2 de 4 22/10/12 19:17



APPROPRIATE. I think Brands should adapt to cover our needs and desires. We have SOMETHING IN COMMON, what isgood for US, is good for the BRAND and viceversa !

APPROPRIATE. HOWEVER, Ben Sherman change is too radical !

NOT APPROPRIATE. I just think its POINTLESS..I think Ben Sherman had NO reasons to CHANGE. just make me feelthey don't have personality.

THEY HAVEN'T CHANGED THAT MUCH ..I feel they are the same!

Other, please specify:

Here there are some images regarding the Ben sherman changes.

Ben Sherman Before the Re-branding Ben Sherman After the Re-branding

Please rate the following :(1-5 ) Less to more..

Before theRe-branding

After the Re-branding

1 2 3 4 5 1 2 3 4 5

"Untouchable" too properly placed!

Boring

Adequate, or Appealing enough

Invites you to touch and browse!

Stressing or too full of stuff

Likely to get interested in the brand

Cool, innovative..

According to the images that you've seen before,Be critical with the APPROPRIATENESS of BEN SHERMAN and other Re-brandings in general.


3 de 4 22/10/12 19:17



Never heard about that.

I FIND IT GREAT, FUNNY OR USEFUL. Sometimes i really don't know which kind of shirt would suit me.

I KNOW WHAT TO BUY, and like to browse the different models myself. HOWEVER, its good to know I can be assessed if iwant to!

I don't like the idea or I find it POINTLESS

Yes! It seems they are getting into new tech let's see what's next! No. I find it pointless

Yes, it is funny way to see clothes! Yes, in the case the item properly is shown properly.

Other, please specify:

CARNABY STREET: What o you think about the shirt bar? SHIRT BAR: (new service the brand offers to let you know about the high variety of models, shapes that also can assessyou in tailoring and style).

CARNABY STREET: Have you seen the new technology used in window displays?

(There are different clothes hanged facing the street, when you press one of the numbers on the street wall, the item comesto the front and is shown 360 degrees)


4 de 4 22/10/12 19:17



6.2 INTERVIEW TO BRAND / COMMUNICATIONS MANAGER OF BEN

SHERMAN

Section 1: About the brand

1- How would you describe Ben Sherman DNA? ( Philosophy, Values,

Character...) a heritage of modernism; the enduring quest for the new and the next, that’s what has driven Ben Sherman forward since 1963. It’s authentic, honest and British.

2- What do you think is the differentiator element of the brand?

A unique history and heritage in music and fashion. Few brands have remained as loved or as relevant for 50years. This is not to say that the brand is retrospective though, we always seek the modern and the contemporary.

3- How would you describe Ben Sherman Target?

Our Modernist. 25-40ish, urban dwelling successful male, design led, fashion savvy and musically aware.

4- Which is Ben Sherman positioning strategy? PRICE / QUALITY,

PRODUCT / DESIGN, INNOVATION Premium; we’re design led, make focussed; meaning that whilst we always strive for great design, quality of fabric and production is equally as important to us, and our prices reflect that.

Section 2: About Rebranding Drivers

5- What drives Ben Sherman to the Re-branding? (Wrong image, sales

lowered, tight market..) It wasn’t a rebrand; we’re still Ben Sherman. What we have recently undergone has been an evolution, and all brands, labels, corporations or pop stars need to evolve in order to remain relevant, and that’s just what we’ve done here.



6- What are the intentions? (Harmonisation of the brand image, change:

public, price or differentiate..) Our previous overarching brand logo, based on Ben Sherman’s original signature, did a fine job. As decades go by and fashions change, our collections had evolved and our stores looked different, so it was only natural to apply this evolution to the logo too. The new logo has helped contemporise the whole look and feel of the brand.

Section 3: About Rebranding Strategy

7- When has the re-branding process started and when is it planned to be

totally established?

Plectrum by Ben Sherman Collection was introduced for AW11, and the global roll out of our new interior identity is an ongoing process.

8- What parts of the brand are affected by the Re-branding? (Staff,

clothing line, packaging, logo, price, advertising, communication, philosophy, Target,..)

To ensure consistency of message, all visual elements need to be considered within the evolution, so this encompasses everything from labelling to advertising. Naturally, as a brand evolves and as we return to a more premium offering, the customer base will evolve too. As before, we’re talking to that contemporary modernist, who appreciates, style and design. Someone who’s always seeking out something new, but respects provenance and admires genuine heritage.

9- What are the procedures? I.e. One-day implementation, slow steady

changes..? As before, this is an ongoing process and for a brand our size, it will take some time to harmonise all aspects of the business globally.

10- Which communication strategy does the brand use to inform the

stakeholders about the changes? (Events or others...) We’ve always embraced a multi channel communication strategy, and this will continue with the new collections and brand identity. This includes events and



gigs, harnessing our heritage in music, digital and social media activity and engagement, traditional pr and advertising as well as experiential and in-store.

Section 4: ABOUT REBRANDING EXPECTED OUTCOMES

11- How do you think the audience is perceive these changes? Positive,

shocking, unnoticeable.? The way the evolution has been received differs between groups. GQ (UK, sept. ’12) heralded it as “..the most impressive brand reincarnation we’ve seen in a long time”, blogs like mmminimal have praised the updated logo and new look packaging, and generally, the reaction has been overwhelmingly positive. People who visit the stores are genuinely very impressed, not only with the product offering, but the entire retail experience, from the store design to the staff. We know Plectrum by Ben Sherman isn’t for the more traditional modernists, but then we have Duke Street Foundry that caters for our long-term supporters; a

collection inspired by our heritage pieces and proudly made here in England. 12- It seems the brand is now targeting wider and more diverse audience,

isn’t it? Why? Have you noticed a great change in audience since the re-

branding implementation? This has come hand in hand with the evolution of the brand and the introduction of new collections. As above, we have now have several collections that cater for different consumers. The more contemporarily minded modernist can shop Plectrum, whilst those looking for an easy-to-wear piece that’ll look great can opt for British Wardrobe Staples. Then we have tailoring for the sartorial, and Duke Street Foundry for the traditionalists. 13- Taking into account the percentage invested (whether possible), which

are the current, and expected future returns? Please, comment on

tangible (sales volume, monetary..) and Intangible (brand image, brand

awareness, brand conversations....) n/a 14- How do you measure the returns of the investment on this Re-branding?

We monitor ROI on all marketing and press activity, and obviously sales figures and the like, but it’s more difficult to measure the actual ROI directly attributable to the recent changes the brand has undergone.



7 LIST OF REFERENCES

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