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1.1 Theories of Fashion

The meaning of fashion.

An explanation of fashion as a sign system

of cultural change and tribal belonging.

A look at class stratification, status,

profession and requirements of clothing

from everyday uniform to a mass youth

cult uniform.

Status symbols, group affiliation and

branding. Veblen's Theory of the Leisure

Class.

Mass production and fashion cycles.

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What is Fashion?

For centuries individuals or societies

have used clothes and other body

adornment as a form of nonverbalcommunication to indicate

occupation, rank, gender, sexual

availability, locality, class, wealthand group affiliation.

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. Fashion is a form of free speech. It

not only embraces clothing, but alsoaccessories, jewellery, hairstyles,

beauty and body art.

What we wear and how and whenwe wear it, provides others with a

shorthand to subtly read the surface

of a social situation.

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Fashion as a Sign System

Fashion is a language of signs, symbols and

iconography that non-verbally

communicate meanings about individuals

and groups.

Fashion in all its forms from a tattooed

and pierced navel, to the newest hairstyle,

is the best form of iconography we have to

express individual identity.

It enables us to make ourselves understood

with rapid comprehension by the onlooker.

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Fashion as a Barometer of Cultural

Changes

How we perceive the beauty or ugliness of ourbodies is dependant on cultural attitudes to

physiognomy.

Today an inability to refashion and reshape our

bodies whilst constantly monitoring the cultural

ideal leaves us failing the fashion test.

Those that pass the fashion test invariably

spend their lives absorbed in a circle of diet,exercise, cosmetic surgery and other

regimes. This includes the rigors of shopping in

search of the ultimate garb.

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The development and formulation of

a design requires rigorous

involvement and in most of the cases

follows some or the other process.

The process involved should be acourse of action that would make

reaching the goal very much easier

and simpler.Design can be defined to conceive the

idea for some artefact or system

and/or to express the idea in a form.

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Technical words Design and Pattern making are essential first steps in

the garment manufacture. These activities are

combination of art, science and technology. A garment

engineer should possess masterly knowledge on these

vital aspects on the scientific, engineering and

technological aspects of these operations; he should also

be able to work with Designers of the artistic genre

with full confidence so as to draw out the full creative

powers and utilize them for the production of beautifulgarments.

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Draping: The art of creating a dress

simply by arranging fabric around a

body using the natural fall of thefabric and techniques like pleating,

gathering. The most famous drape

would be the sari.

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Cowl Neck: A neckline with material falling looselyfrom shoulder to shoulder forming soft graceful folds.

This can hang either in the front or back of the

garment, adding a sensuous, glamorous feel to anyoutfit.

Deconstruction: Is a term used to describe clothing that

has been taken apart and put back together in a newunexpected way, or looks unfinished, raw and as

though it may be deteriorating.

Drainpipe: Narrow pants, tapering towards the ankles.

Also called cigarette pants.

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Lapel: An extension of the collar in a

jacket that folds out. The width andlength of the lapel varies widely from

season to season and is often a

defining aspect of menswear trends.Lining: The inner layer used to

cover the inside of garment. Usually

of a soft, smooth fabric the rightlining can add give an outfit a more

flattering fall.

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Collar typesMandarin Collars: Also known as

the Chinese collar. A short band

stand up collar adapted from the

traditional Chinese collar

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Pleats

Pleats: A technique to create volume in agarment by folding fabric and stitching it down

at the top of the fold.

Types ofpleats

knife pleats (all folds facing one direction),

Box pleats (two flat folds in opposite

direction With edges of the fabric meeting

underneath), and

Inverted pleats (similar to a box pleat but

with the fullness on the outer side)

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1.2 Fashion History

Fashions of the Twentieth

Century

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1900-1910

Gibson GirlLook

Shirt waist

blouses Hats-

enormouswith birds,feathers,ribbons, etc.

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1900-1910 Men Spats

Formal wear Frock coats

Spats

Hats

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1920s

Flapper

Sportswear

introduced

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1920s

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1930s

Era of elegance

Bias cut

Cowl neck

Ginger Rogers

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1930s

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1930s

Men

Double breasted suits

Wide lapels

Shoulders broadened

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1940s

World War II

Separates introduced

that can be mixedand matched 'and

short in length

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1940s

Bobby socks, pleated skirts

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1940s Men

Casual!

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1950s

Full skirts and

strapless dresses

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1960s

Kennedy Era

Chanel Suit

Pillbox hat

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1960s

Jeans

Mini Skirts

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1970sPantsuits, wide

legs with largecuffs/ bell bottoms

hip huggers

Pants for womenbecame acceptablein the work place.

Long pointedcollars.

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1970s

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1980s

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1990s

Platform

Shoes

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Fashion from 1905-1920

In the years between 1905 and 1918clothing styles emerged that were

evolutionary in bridging the gap

between the rigid formality of theEdwardian styles and the ultimate

changes that led to the knee high

dresses of 1926.

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Fashions of

the Year(Write Years

hi h d ib th

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which describe the

time:Write words that describe the time

period and quotes from people at the

time.

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fashions?Write famous people here who set the

fashions. You may put them into

categories such as: actors, designers,

musicians.

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silhouette?Write the silhouette of the time here.

Explain what this silhouette looks like.

You can add pictures to help yourpresentation.

Who were the designers

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Who were the designersand labels?

Name at least two designers and the

labels produced during this time.

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trends?Explain the trends that make your

time period unique.

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popular?

Write the most popular colors.

What values of the colors were

popular (tint, tones, shades?)

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used?Write the types of textiles exclusively

used during this time period

Were there any advancements intextile technology?

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What movies are

representative of the time?Write the movies

that were created

during the timeperiod or were

made to represent

the time period.

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What clothing parallels can be

made to other time periods?

What trends of your time period are

repeated in earlier or later timeperiods?

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What historical moments

occurred?

Write significant events that

occurred during your time period.If it is in the U.S., write the

president, if the period was focused

on Europe or another nation, put theevents of that nation.

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Works Cited You must write the internet sites and the books that

you accessed your information and pictures from using

the following formats:

For an internet site write: Last name, first name of

author, title of work. Name of site. Date of

posting/revision, organization. Date of access, URL.

Look for an author, however it may not be listed on

the site.

For a book and magazines write: Author, Title,

Publisher, Place and Date of Publication.