fall/winter 2016-17 new york fabric fair

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July 15

FW2016-17 NEW YORK FABRIC FAIRSMilano Unica, Premiere Vision Preview, Texworld & Kingpins

General Overview:This year the Fall/Winter 2016-2017 fabric fairs in New York included Milano Unica, Texworld, Premiere Vision and Kingpins, all showing the newest developments from textile mills around the world. Creating its own separate venue, Milano Unica showcased earliest at the River Pavilion & Gallery at Javits Convention Center, with 86 high-end Italian mills showing a selection of creative and luxurious fabrics. Premiere Vision was held at Pier 92, and brought the best from global fabric mills with over 300 international exhibitors selected according to quality and creativity. Texworld presented the latest in-demand and affordable apparel fabrics, trims and accessories for every product line. Kingpins, specializing in denim, displayed a highly edited selection of vendors from around the world.

Fabric Observations:At the various shows and trend forums the overarching theme was textured textiles. Everything from marled and heathered yarns to chunky boucl with eyelash or mohair was important, with messages of soft and sophisticated surfaces. Menswear fabrics including Donegal tweeds, oversized plaids and checks and herringbones were key. Cotton-based fabrics have a SHEEN and are more structured with the BESPOKE look for tailoring. Shine was predominant in various applications, from Lurex yarns to various coatings and foil printing in both metallic and iridescent colors. Overall there is a movement to more REFINED and DRESSEY fabrics. Jacquards were decorative and opulent, often with a touch of shine. Tapestry and brocades continue to be important in classic or patched patterns, and are an inspiration when designing new prints.

Luxurious finishes with sheen are created by fine high-count yarns and new technical high-speed weaving machines. Shine is also achieved through satin and sateen weaves.

Texture and Dimension creating surface interest is key by the mixing yarn sizes and yarn types such as boucle loops, large nubs and slubs. Matelass and plisse & pucker continue. In knits, blister stitches and new quilted patterns are textural.

Brocades and jacquards become stronger in a variety of patterns including clustered florals, zig-zag chevrons, graphics, mixed stipes and unusual patched patterns which will influence print design. Some ethnic patterns were labelled as Contemporary Folk.

Mohair, real or faux, is creating a luxe fuzzy surface in solids and plaids in coating and sportswear weights.

Guipure lace was strong, replacing the finer Alencon and Chantilly. Many finer laces were printed or coated with a light rubber-like finish.

Crepe in all weights continued to grow in importance. Lightest weights were printed.

Velvet and panne in silk, poly or viscose in solid, devor and prints.

Plaids are newest in fat or large sized yarns, often in medium to large layouts using mlange, heather and or jasp yarns. Menswear plaids, often in subtle color ways are important, as well as ancient tartan plaids in deep rich colors.

Tweeds were modernized by the unusual mix of yarns. Some thick and thin yarns and wrapped with boucl or loop yarns.Faux Furs were richly colored and patterned, mostly in long hair types.


July 15


Key Print:Florals: newest clustered, often on dark grounds

Zig-Zag or chevron prints in strong colorways and oversized

Optical, psychedelic and Pop Art in bright colors on white grounds

Linear and blurred patterns

Flocking on its own creating a pattern or over a print

Foil printing as a solid, pattern or in conjunction with a colorful print

Faux Furs were richly colored and patterned, mostly in long hair types.

Fluid & drapey knits in both jersey and pont. Newest are ribs.

Double-faced and reversible fabrics continued.

Raised & cavalry twills were new and perfect for tailoring.

Corduroy from 25-28 wale, 14 and 8 wale as well as uncut was strong.

Suede, real or faux, in browns and rich deep colors.

Basic bottom weights continue: twills, canvas and sateen.

Technical & Functional fabrics are newest in iridescent weaves, metallic and pearlized applications and prints such as foulards, medallions, optical and Op Art patterns.


July 15


Denim Direction:Jean fabrics this season are going back to the American denim heritage, classic ring-spun, true indigo shades and washes. Selvedge continues and mercerized finishes return.

Artisan hopsack and handloom yarn-dye for shirting.

Stonewash corduroy looks best in indigo dye, always add stretch for comfort.

Indigo dyed wool with mercerized process is chic.

Technical denim are the highlight of the show. New synthetics and blends are for comfort and performance.

Foamed jacquard knits with quilt and 3-D effects are fun and modern.

Fine cotton with sateen finish and Tencel handle, soft, light and fluid.

Mini dobby and jacquard added a touch texture, from menswear foulard to decorative tapestry motif.

Artificial color and playful mid-tones add life to the season.

Denim Highlights:Softness achieved by fiber technology

Placement printed

Digital patchwork

New blending of fibers

Comfort, movement and resiliency

Self-crimping structure gives lasting recovery, up to 40% stretch with comfort

Hollow core fibers provide insulation and moisture wicking, stay warm, dry

Moisture wicking and breathable, cool, dry comfort

Indigo free, waterless, a new technology-enabled brand that combines the time honored American tradition of denim with state-of-the-art science and digital artistry

Prints are engineered with wash and distress effects, patchwork and texture blocking in stretch fabrics


July 15

FW2016-17 TEXTILE DESIGN AT PRIMERE VISION Highlights

Assembling Rationally: Architectural Inspiration / Graphic Texture / Blocks and Layers / 3-D Effects

Combine: Layered Illustrations / Free Expressions / Playful Combinations / No Holding Back / Distinct Signs and Words

Compose Playfully: Patched Together Cutouts / Combined Effects and Materials / Giant Puzzles /Flat Perspective / Block Color Narrative

Layered Intuitively: Blurred visions / Fizzy Texture / Overprint of Layers /Hand Drawn Lines/ Layers Partially Covered with Color

Loosen Up: Strong Presents of Contour / Hints of Floral / New Directions for Florals and Naturals

Mixing References: Traditional Know-How with Ultra Modern Attitude / Fragmented Folk / Reinterpreted Ornamentation

Layered IntuitivelyColette and Blue

Loosen Up

Assembling Rationally Abby Lichtman Design

Combine Compose PlayfullyAnona Studio

Anona Studio

Helena Gavshon

KukukachuMixing References

fall/winter 2016-17 new york fabric fair

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