fabrication

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Contents

1. Fabrication…………………………………………………………………… 3

2. Weaving ……………………………………………………………………… 3

a. Weaving structure flow chart…………………………………….. 4

i. Plain structure 1. Regular warp rib weave……………………………………………………………………… 5

2. Irregular warp rib weave …………………………………………………………………… 5

3. Regular weft rib weave ……………………………………………………………………… 6

4. Irregular weft rib weave …………………………………………………………………… 6

5. Regular matt weave ………………………………………………………………………….. 7

6. Irregular matt weave ………………………………………………………………………… 7

7. Stitched matt weave ………………………………………………………………………… 8

8. Fancy matt weave ……………………………………………………………………………. 8

ii. Twill structure

1. Z and S-twill weave…………………………………………………………………………… 9

2. Zigzag weave…………………………………………………………………………………….. 10

3. Herring Bone weave …………………………………………………………………………. 10

4. Diamond twill weave ………………………………………………………………………… 11

5. Diaper twill weave ……………………………………………………………………………. 11

6. Broken twill weave ……………………………………………………………………..……. 12

7. Elongated twill weave ………………………………………………………………..…….. 13

8. Stepped twill weave …………………………………………………………………..…….. 14

9. Shaded twill weave …………………………………………………………………..……… 15

iii. Satin

1. Warp satin …………………………………………………………..…………………………… 16

2. Weft satin ………………………………………………………….……………………………… 17

3. Knitting …………………………………………………………………..….. 3

a. Knitting structure flow chart …………………………………….. 18

i. Basic category

1. Single jersey structure ……………………………….……………………………………… 19

2. Rib structure …………………………………………………………….………………………. 19

3. Purl structure ……………………………………………………………………….…………… 20

4. Double jersey structure …………………………………………………………..………… 20

ii. Fancy category

1. Shaker or half – cardigan …………………………………………………………….…… 20

2. Full cardigan ……………………………………………………….…………………………… 20

3. Milano stitch …………………………………………………………….……………………… 21

4. Drop knit ………………………………………………………………………………..………… 22

5. Pointel stitch ……………………………………………………………………….…………… 22

6. Zigzag stitch ……………………………………………………………………………..……… 22

7. Tuck structure …………………………………………………..……………………………… 23

4. Different names of printing ………………………………………….. 24

5. Different names of embroidery ………….…………………………. 24

6. Different names of washing …………………………………………. 25

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Fabrication:

Manufacturing process in which an item is made. For exm. Waving and knitting

process used for producing Woven fabric and knit fabric.

Weaving:

The process in which fabrics are produced by interlacing two sets of threads

according to design is called weaving.

Knitting:

the process in which fabrics are produced by set of connected loops from a

series of yarn in weft or warp direction is called knitting. 2 types are

1. Weft knitting: the knitting technique in which the series of loops always

run in the horizontal direction (coarse direction)

2. Warp knitting: the knitting technique in which the series of loops always

run in the vertical direction (wales direction)

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Regular warp rib weave

General Formula: x/x

Formula: 4/4

Repeat size = 2*8

Irregular warp rib weave

General Formula: x /y

Formula: 3/5

Repeat size = 2*8

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Regular weft rib weave

General Formula: 1/1 (x)

Formula: 1/1 (4)

Repeat size: 8*2

Irregular weft rib weave

General Formula: 1/1 (x+y)

Formula: 1/1 (5+3)

Repeat size = 8*2

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Regular matt weave

General Formula: x/x (x) and R.S=2x*2x

Formula: 6/6 (6)

Repeat size = 12*12

Irregular matt weave

General Formula: x/y (x+y)

Formula: 4/2 (4+2)

Repeat size = 6*6

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Stitched matt weave

General Formula: x/x (x)

Formula: 6/6 (6)

Repeat size = 12*12

Fancy matt weave

General Formula: x/x (x)

Formula: 5/5 (3)

Repeat size = 10*10

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Twill structure:

Z and S-twill weave

General Formula: x/y and Repeat size: (x+y)*(x+Y)

Formula: 2/3 (R.S = 5*5) or 3/1 (R.S = 4*4)

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Zigzag/waved/pointed Twill Weave:

o General Formula: x/y and Repeat size: {2*(x+y)}*(x+y)

o Formula: 4/3 (R.S = 14*7) or 3/2 (R.S = 10*5)

Herring Bone Twill Weave: o General Formula: x/y and Repeat size: {2*(x+y)}*(x+y)

o Formula: 4/3 (R.S = 14*7) or 3/2 (R.S = 10*5)

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Diamond Twill Weave:

o General Formula: x/y and Repeat size: {2*(x+y)}* {2*(x+y)}

o Formula: 4/3 (R.S = 14*14) or 3/2 (R.S = 10*10)

Diaper Twill Weave:

o General Formula: x/y and Repeat size: {2*(x+y)}* {2*(x+y)}

o Formula: 4/3 (R.S = 14*14) or 3/2 (R.S = 10*10)

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Broken Twill Weave:

o General Formula: Any

o Formula: According to that

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Elongated Twill Weave:

o General Formula: Any

o Formula: According to that

Elongated Twill: The twill angle from in cloth depend upon,

1. The relative ratio of ends and pick per unit length. 2. The rate of advancement of one interlacing with respect to the following one.

Normally the twill angle is 45 degree where the end and pick per unit area are equal. But in

elongated twill, the twill angle more or less than 45 degree any twill design without twill angle.

Elongated twill can be formed in two different ways:

(a) with the help of step number.

(b) By selecting stasting of elongated twill with a base line.

(a)With the help of step number:

If the step number of elongated twill is two, then by taking only odd number of warp thread from

the basic twill here the warp number in step twill will be equal to the basic twill.

(b) By selecting stasting of elongated twill with a base line:

Here at first a step number is to be selected. In such a way that the repeat of base line become divisible by

that step number.

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Stepped Twill Weave:

o General Formula:

o Formula:

Stepped twill: Stepped twill is produced by stepping a continuous twill. This are two type stepped twill

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shaded Twill Weave:

o General Formula:

o Formula:

By shaded twill we can create shade effect on fabric the shade effect is created by the

combination some thick to thin twills or thin to thick twills.

Satin:

Warp satin and weft satin

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Warp or regular satin weave:

if the float of Warp yarn is more in the face side then it is called warp satin.

i.e. 6/1 sateen weave

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Weft or Irregular satin weave:

if the float of Weft yarn is more in the face side then it is called Weft

satin. i.e. 1/6 sateen weave.

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

knitting structure

Basic category

Single jersey Double Jersey

Rib

Purl

Interlock

Fancy category

Shaker or Half Cardigan Stitch

Full Cardigan stitch

Drop knit

Tuck Stitch

Milano stitch

Poinal stitch

Zigzag stitch

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Single Jersey Structure:

Structure: single bed

Construction: Jersey

Appearance: both side not same: Technical front (T/F) – V shape and

technical back (T/B) – semi circle

Rib Structure:

Structure: double bed

Construction: 1*1, 2*2rib, fancy rib(3*3, 4*4, 5*5), and derby rib (6*6)

Appearance: Both side same but semi-circle loops observe in between V

shape loops.

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Purl structure:

The purl fabric is also known as links fabric.

It is almost same with rib. One different is all ‘V’ shape or “semi-circle” loops

are in horizontal direction but in rib structure they are in vertical direction.

Double Jersey Structure:


Construction: Double jersey

Appearance: Both side same (look V shape)

Shaker / half-cardigan Structure:


Construction: 1*1

Appearance: Both side not same:

o T/F side looks fluffy or bulky effect

o T/B side looks tight ‘v’ / chain stitch.

Full-cardigan Structure:


Construction: 1*1

Appearance: Both side looks same like fluffy

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Half and full cardigan pic:

Milano stitch:


Construction: Double jersey


o T/F side looks joint ‘v’ shape stitch (after stretch can be observed)

o T/B side looks tight ‘v’ / chain stitch.

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Drop knit:

Any structure and construction may be like s/j, rib, d/j…) I.e. 3*1


Poinal stitch:


Appearance: Looks with thing hole.

Zigzag stitch:


Appearance: According to the construction.

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Tuck structure:


Construction: 1*1

Appearance: for single tuck:

o T/F side looks Honey comb structure.

o T/B side looks Plain ‘v’ / chain stitch.

For double tuck: both side look honey-comb structure.

*** light tuck knit is called pique structure and heavy tuck knit is called tuck

structure.

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Different names of PRINT

Different names of EMRBOIDERY

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Different Types of Washing

1. Garments / normal wash: to remove dust, oil spot and other impurities.

2. Rinse or dark wash: to make the garments wearable or dark shade and soft.

3. Tie wash: to make uneven crease look on the garments.

4. Pigment wash: to make the garments uneven, fade or worn look.

5. Caustic wash: to increase color fastness properties.

6. Enzyme wash: to improve color fastness and anti-pilling properties. Used for only

100% cotton.

7. Stone wash: to bring the bright and make the garments more unique appearance

and soft. Used only for heavy fabric.

8. Stone enzyme wash: to bring the more brightness then stone wash. Used only

for heavy fabric.

9. Towel bleach wash: to create cloudy effect.

10. Acid or ice or white or snow wash

11. Burn out wash. Especially used for cvc or pc fabric. Cotton portion is burned

with sulfuric acid.

12. Dip dye: Color will be come light from bottom to top.

13. Cold pigment dye / oil wash / top dye/ random dye/ wave dye: to create

vintage effect (vintage effect means body will be color but not seam)

14. Fluorescent pigment dye: to make too brighter than any others. (80%OBA

and 20% color).

15. PP spot / Bleach spot

16. PP Spray

17. PP sponging or rubbing

18. Resin spot

19. Resin spray

20. Hand scrapping

21. Destroy

22. Tagging

23. Grinding

24. Manual whiskering

25. Laser whiskering

26. 2-D crinkle

27. 3-D crinkle

28. Heat pressing

29. Pigments spray

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Tie wash

Towel bleach wash

Burn out wash

Stone wash

Stone wash

Stone wash

Dip Dye

Acid wash

Acid wash

Co

ld P

igm

ent

wa

sh

Fluo

rescent w

ash

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

PP or Bleach spot

PP spray

PP Spray

PP sponging or rubbing

Resin spray

Hand scraping

Destroy

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Md. Al-Amin 131-023-0-145 AMT-1

Tagging

Grading

Manual Whiskering

Laser Whiskering

2-D crinkle

3-D crinkle

fabrication

Education