Fabric Spreading

Presentation

Fabric Spreading:

This is a preparatory operation for cutting and consists of laying plies of cloth one on top of the other in a predetermined direction and relationship between the right and wrong sides of the cloth. The composition of each spread i.e. the number of plies of each color is obtained from the cut order plan. Number of plies depends on:

1. Capacity of the cutting machine 2. Volume of production 3. Type of fabric itself (rough or slippery) 4. Thickness of fabric 

The objective of spreading

 To place the number of plies of fabric to the length of the marker plan correctly aligned as to length and width and without tension.

 To cut garments in bulk and saving in fabric through the use of multi garment marker plans and the saving in cutting time per garment that result from cutting many plies at a time.

To make every ply plain and flat.

Reasons considered for ply height determination:

For fabric spreading we should consider some parameter. discussion regarding fabric spreading and factors that influence the lay height as well: Thickness of the fabric. Cutting knife length. Volume of production. Nature of the fabric.

Requirement of Fabric Spreading

1. Alignment of plies in both length and width direction- length and width of fabric must be at least equal to marker length and width. 

2. Elimination of fabric defects/flaws- any faults identified on the incoming fabrics will be tagged and will be avoided. 

3. Correct ply direction (especially for asymmetrically printed fabrics)- all faces up, all faces down, face to face etc. 

4. Correct ply tension- ply tension must be uniform and as much less as possible. 

5. Avoidance of distortion in the spread during cutting- polythene sheets are used under the bottom ply to resist friction of the bottom ply with the base plate of the knife. 

6. Fabrics must be flat and free from any crinkle & crease- these cause defect in garments due to variation in dimension. 

7. Checks and stripes should be matched. 

Method of Fabric Spreading

Two types of methods to makes lay by spreading fabrics.

Manual methods.Fully HandHand spreading with hook.Hand spreading with spreading track

Mechanical methodsSemi Automatic spreadingFully Automatic spreading

Fabric Lay

Types of Fabric Lay:

According to the construction fabric lay is two types. These are:

1.     Straight lay

2.     Stepped lay

According to the direction of spreading fabric lay is three types. These are:

1.     From right to left

2.     From right to right

3.     Zigzag lay

Presentation of Fabrics

Presentation of fabrics means the form in which the material has been delivered.

Types of lay plan:

Half Garment Lay: This includes only half of the garment pieces .They are used for folded or tubular fabrics and for fabrics, which are spread face to face

Whole Garment Lay: All of the garment pieces, left and right sides are included in the lay. Used for open width fabrics.

Single Size Lay: The lay includes all of the pieces for a single size. Restricting the lay to a single size makes order planning and laying up the fabric easier, but the disadvantage is a somewhat higher material consumption, compared to multi-size pays.

Multi-size Lays: 

 •Sectional lay: The lay is made in at least two distinct rectangular sections. Each section contains all of the parts for a single size. Adjacent sections may be the same or a different size.

•Interlocking lay: Two or more sections, one after the other, usually different sizes, but the sections are not confined to strict rectangular areas; the pieces for the different sections may merge at the borders.

•Mixed multi-size lay: In this case there are no distinct sections: the pieces for the two or more different garment sizes are intermingled. This is the arrangement, which normally gives the best material utilization

Shade marking and inspection

If one were to take several batches of cloth (which were of the same shade) and subject them to close scrutiny, it would become apparent that each batch of cloth differed slightly in shade from its neighbor. If a bodice was cut from one batch, and the sleeves from another, this difference in shade would show in the finished garment. In order to prevent shades being mixed several steps are taken in the Cutting Room.

Whenever two different batches of the same color are spread on one lay and they are separated:By spreading a batch of another color between the two light colors, so that there is clear distinction between the two.By laying a sheet of marker paper on the top of the first batch and spreading the second batch immediately on top of it. In this case the two shades are separated by paper.

Common Fabric faults found in Fabric Spreading

The End