Fabric Sample

Fabric Barré

CAUSE % of DEFECTSFiber 70%

Yarn Count Variation 10%

Twist Variation 10%

Hairiness 10%

Fabric Barré due to

1. Micronaire

2. Maturity/Fineness

3. Fluorescence

Micronaire

Causes of Barré :

• > 0.2 Difference in micronaire

• > 0.1 Change in average micronaire mix to mix

• > 12% CV of Micronaire within mix

• Bales with same micronaire placed side by side in mix

3.8

3.9

4.0

4.1

4.2

4.3

4.4

4.5

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14

Mix Number

Micronaire

Acceptable Change in Micronairefrom Mix to Mix

Maximum ± .1

High Micronaire CV% in Mix

3.6

3.7

3.8

3.9

4.0

4.2

4.3

4.4

4.5

4.6

4.7

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24

Bale Number

Micronaire

* Maximum CV 12%

Aug. 4.1 CV% 17.7*

Maturity & FinenessCauses of Barré• Blending cottons from different growth areas

• Blending cottons from different seed varieties

• Seasonal changes in cotton growth cycle

– Weather

– Insects

• Immature Fiber Content% (IFC%)

– White Speck Neps

– Carding Speeds

Knitted Fabric Sample:3 Varieties, Same Mic, Same Growing Area3 Varieties, Same Mic, Same Growing Area

Bale Number

33 22 11

HVI Bale Data:Length & Micronaire Analysis

0

1

2

3

4

5

0

5

10

15

20

25

30

35

Bale 1 Bale 2 Bale 3

Micronaire Length Strength

Micronaire & Length (in) Strength (g/tex)

Uster Yarn Data (Ne 26)

0

100

200

300

400

500

600

0

1

2

3

4

5

6

7

Bale 1 Bale 2 Bale 3

Strength Elongation

Strength (grams) Elongation (%)

AFIS Maturity Module: Maturity Analysis

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

0

20

40

60

80

100

120

140

160

180

200

Bale 1 Bale 2 Bale 3

Immature Fiber Content Fineness

Immature Fiber Content (%) FIneness (mtex)

White Speck Neps

Fabric AFabric A Fabric BFabric B Fabric CFabric C

Fabric White Speck Defects:AFIS Maturity Module

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

0

0.1

0.2

0.3

0.4

0.5

0.6

0.7

0.8

0.9

1

Fabric A Fabric B Fabric C

Immature Fiber Content Maturity Ratio

Immature Fiber Content (%) Maturity Ratio

Card Mat & Sliver Variation:AFIS Maturity Analysis

0

2

4

6

8

10

12

14

16

18

Card 7 Card 8 Card 9 Card 11 Card 12 Card 13

Card Mat Sliver

Immature Fiber Content (%)

Variation in Card Sliver:AFIS Maturity Module

0

5

10

15

Card 1 Card 19 Card 25 Card 35 Card 49 Card 51

Immature FIber Content (%)

FluorescenceCauses of Barré

• Variation in average UV readings between bale mixes

• CV% in UV readings within a mix

• End-of-season cotton crop changes

• Outside storage of cotton bales

• Mixing high and low UV bales

• UV readings increase over time in warehouse

Fluorescence

Solutions

• UV test every bale before making mix

• Maximum 10 points difference of UV readings within mix

• Maximum change in UV average 1 point between mixes

• Set up category groups for UV

Variation of Bale UV Within Mix

0 4 8 12 16 20 2465

70

75

80

85

90

95

100

Bale Number

UV

Average 80 Max ±5

Variations in Average UVfrom Mix to Mix

0 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 1775

76

77

78

79

80

81

82

83

84

85

Mix Number

UV

Maximum Change ±1 in Average