european vibe magazine february 2009

european

vibe

23-F A Botellón hAngover

lance armstrong 6 nAtions 2009 oscArs cádiz sAint vAlentine’s dAy anD lots more!

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no. 28 FeB ’09

The essenTial monThly liFesTyle magazine

freemaDriDeDiTion

where to eat out for

valentine’s day

winnersviBe AwArds

2008 - 2009

Plus!

www.europeanvibe.com

editorial

feb 09 3

European Vibe EntertainmentFernando el Católico 63, local 128015 Madrid EnquiriEs tel: 91 549 7711 fax: 91 549 7711email: [email protected] [email protected] star Editor Susana Ló[email protected] art EditorPhilip McIvor [email protected] MEdia & dEsignFerdi [email protected] advErtisingJosé María González Alonso (91 549 7711)[email protected] adMinistratorTomek [email protected] pr & proMotions Mitchell [email protected] MarkEting dirEctor Brian TippinMarkEting John Folorunso Managing dirEctorScott [email protected] EvEnt co-ordinator Sam [email protected] Logistics & distribution Rossen Angelov [email protected] prooFrEadingTomek PrzybyszewskistaFF and bLog writErs Peter Moore, Linn Treijs, Harry Watkinson, Ryan Craggs, Charlotte Smith, Martin Quinn, Helen Macrae, Vanessa Harris, Katie Chavez, Peter Macfarlane, Christopher Sinclair Christian, Hayleigh Stewart and Ruth Kenny cartoonJoe HodgsonintErns Anisha Bagchi, Tim Anderson, Matt Johnson, Jade Conroyr

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e-mail: [email protected]

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contEnts04 BiTS & PieCeS & BeST OF THe BLOG06 WHAT’S ON - SAiNT

VALeNTiNe’S DAy07 WHAT’S ON - ReAL

MADRiD - LiVeRPOOL 08 ViBeS - OASiS09 WHAT’S ON - CALeNDAR

& DJ COSy O10 ViBe AWARDS12 PARTy PHOTOS &

SuBSCRiPTiONS 14 euRO WeeKeNDeR - VeNiCe 16 WeeKeNDeR - CáDiz18 MAP iT OuT & My MeTRO

- ANTóN MARTíN 20 eAT OuT GuiDe 22 FiLM FiRST - THe OSCARS

SPeCiAL23 NeW MOVie ReLeASeS24 SPORT - Six NATiONS 26 SPORT - LANCe ARMSTRONG27 CuLTuRe - ST. VALeNTiNe’S

DAy, A GiRL’S OPiNiON 28 CuLTuRe - STAKiNG THe

CORPSe OF FRANCO29 CuLTuRe - BACK ON THe

BOTTLe30 LiNGOSTAR - ¿Me

QuieRe? ¿NO Me QuieRe? 31 BOOKS32 SeRViCeS

The OScarS SpecIal22

08

WIN!If you find the bully logo in one of our featured adverts, send us an email to [email protected] and you could win dinner for two (40€ voucher) at Hard Rock Cafe. Last month’s winner was Jean McCormack. Jean won a pass for two people for a bathing session complete with 15-minute massage in the Arab baths courtesy of Medina Mayrit. Bully was hiding in the Hot English advert on page 32. Get searching!

podcast you can now listen to and download

european vibe Magazine articles through the embedded player on the article pages of

http://www.europeanvibe.com or on our podcast page http://europeanvibe.podomatic.com

Where’s Bully?

WE WANT YOU TO WRITE FOR USSend a 500-word article about your barrio in Madrid to [email protected] to get a writer’s account on our blog!BLOGwww.europeanvibeblog.com

viBeEuropean

venIce

¿carne? ¡vale!Put away the meat! That’s what Carnival means, or at least what some etymologists believe, based on the Late Latin ‘carne-vale’ and the fact that it is the last Catholic feast before the 40-day fast of Lent in the run up to easter. i’m more an advocate of the theory of savages running about on an island and eating people who get shipwrecked there. As in, “Oh no, Robinson Crusoe’s been eaten by a bunch of Carnivals! Now Sting’s gonna find his message in a bottle and get eaten trying to rescue him!”

Talking of savages, Hollywood fashion commentators are sharpening their knives as we speak in anticipation of the 81st Academy Awards ceremony and the dresses that will parade up the red carpet. We look at the Oscar hopefuls in general and specifically at the hotly tipped movie Slumdog Millionaire (page 22), and you can play our Oscar predictions game to win five tickets to yelmo Cine ideal (page 23).

Talking of savages, we marauding guiris have become so settled here in Madrid that a whole ecosystem of services and businesses has grown up around us. Our annual Vibe Awards to honour the best of the international have been decided by your votes and you can see who is the best of 2008-2009 on pages 10 and 11.

Talking of savages, 16,000 mad-for-it fans (hey, there are still some tickets if you’re fast) are ready to pile into the Palacio de los Deportes to see Oasis on 12 February. Our Vibes section is dedicated to them and Noel Gallagher’s newfound status as oracle for the twenty-first century (page 8). i’m taking my wife to the gig and telling her it’s her Valentine’s present- you see, girls just aren’t impressed by red roses anymore. Or are they? American Vanessa and British Helen give their opinions on St. Valentine’s Day as twenty-something girls in 2009 (page 27).

Talking of savages, 18 years ago this month, a group of anti-democratic conspirators stormed the Spanish Cortes in an attempted coup d’état. Read the full story (page 28).

OK, that will be enough nonsense from me for this month. But i urge you to check out our feature on the Carnival of Cádiz (page 16) if you are looking for something to wrench you out of winter and put you in party mode. if you feel like somewhere a little more romantic, try the city whose Carnival Cádiz tried to copy, Venice (page 14). So, Liverpool or Real Madrid? One thing’s for sure: there’ll be a carnival atmosphere in Madrid on Champions League night, 25 February. Party hard!

Luc

St Valentine was a Roman saint, executed in 270 AD for secretly marrying couples in defiance of an order of the Roman emperor. The emperor had banned marriage after Roman men began refusing conscription in order to stay home with their wives. Nowadays, from Madrid to Manhattan and Dublin to Dubai, people all over the world make a special effort for their special sweetheart on 14 February. The traditions vary from place to place. For example in the Far East, in Japan and Korea, women are the traditional gift-bearers. Men reciprocate a month later on White Day when they give white chocolate to their loved one.

Even singletons get a special day in Korea, 14 April is Black Day and is celebrated as single folk gather together to eat black jajong noodles, mourn their single life, and to lament smug couple syndrome no doubt... Depressing or what?!

In most of South America the Día del amor y la amistad (Love and friendship day) is quite popular with the exception of Colombia where Valentine’s Day is celebrated in September. The Brazilian version, Dia dos Namorados, takes place on 12 June and women perform rituals to aid them in finding a husband... screams desperation, Bridget Jones style... Which brings me to my next point: How do singletons fare on this day of coupledom?

For many solteras and solteros out there V-day = D-day. It spells doom and is greeted with trepidation and hysteria. The big challenge is getting through the day without resorting to smug couple homicide! On Valentine’s Day, surrounded by all the hype, it’s easy for single ladies in particular to have visions of themselves as a future crazy cat lady!

Personally, I plan to go out with friends for dinner and dancing on Valentine’s Day and the truth be told, if my secret Spanish lothario were to announce his undying love on Valentine’s Day, I’d likely not be that impressed… In the words of Bridget Jones, “I’m still looking for something more extraordinary than that”…

Continued on the blog! www.europeanvibeblog.com

All loved up:Saint Valentine’s Day


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bits & pieces

1 excludes; prevents (6) 2 Germ-free (7) 3 The media; iron (5) 4 Anything upon which great stress

is laid (8) 5 Seldom (6)

7 Support; agree with (7) 8 Drops back (8) 9 Circular; pamphlet (8) 15 Not talkative (8) 17 One of the world’s oceans (8) 18 A firebug (8)

20 A voter (7) 22 Courageous; bold (7) 23 To discredit (6) 24 Boon companion; a pal (6) 27 Goodbye in French (5)

DOWN

ACROSS1 Vanishes (10) 6 Look closely at; an

aristocrat (4) 10 Apiarist (9) 11 Official examination of

accounts (5) 12 Has put back in

position (11) 13 Bitterly regret (3) 14 Sure (7) 16 Divide into two (6) 19 A ditch (6) 21 A group of three related

dramas, operas or novels (7) 25 Consumed (3) 26 One who completely

abstains from alcohol (11) 28 Teacher at a university (5) 29 Remove; put an end to (9) 30 A stopper for a bottle (4) 31 Taught; commanded (10)

CROSSWORD 15

BLOGFind the answers on our blog:

www.europeanvibeblog.com

Problems with the crossword?

SUDOKU eASy PuzzLe 15 HARD PuzzLe 15

8 2 1 7 69 1 8

6 7 5 36 5 9 1

5 6 1 79 7 3 6

9 2 6 53 1 5

4 5 3 8 2

7 5 6 11 5

2 9 45 7

4 9 3 8 71 4

2 6 58 3

4 8 2 9

of women send themselves flowers on Valentine’s Day

of all Valentine’s cards are bought by women

million Valentine’s cards are exchanged annually

15% 85% 73%

34% 180

www.europeanvibeblog.com

BestBLOG

of the

of American female dog owners claim that if their

dog was a man, they’d want him as their boyfriend.

of flowers are bought by men

and only 27% by women

WORDS by Ruth Kenny

6 feb 09 www.europeanvibe.com

what’s on?TheaTre/DanCe

DÍAS DE VINO Y ROSAS DAYS OF WINE AND ROSES

Tamzin Townsend directs this stage version of Blake edwards’ film. Starring Carmelo Gómez and Silvia Abascal, it is a masterpiece about love and the pain one feels when it’s gone.Ending: 15/2/2009Venue: Teatro Lara (www.teatrolara.com)Price: from 15 € to 28 €Metro: Callao

DÍAS mEjORES bETTER DAYSÀlex Rigola directs this comedy in

which youngsters on the dole or with unstable jobs fight off the cold burning furniture, while they eat fast food leftovers and sell their last belongings, which are of dubious value. Ending: 8/3/2009Venue: Teatro de La AbadíaPrice: TBCMetro: Quevedo

musiCals

GREASE, ThE mUSICAl OF YOUR lIFE‘Grease, el musical de tu vida’ (Grease,

the musical of your life) is a faithful version of the original Broadway show that reproduces its stage design, its plot and its songs. This big format musical is intended for all audiences and it brings the charm of the fifties back to the present; it is an amazing show, with numerous actors on stage.Ending: 30/06/2009Venue: Nuevo Teatro AlcaláPrice: from 22 € to 58 €Metro: Goya/ Príncipe de Vergara

exhiBiTions

COWpARADE mADRIDAt last, Madrid surrenders to the liveliest public art event in the world.

For two months the streets of the city will be invaded by a herd of artistic life-size cows, made of fibreglass and painted, transformed and dressed eccentrically by different designers. This open-air show will reach almost every corner of the city, underlining the importance of making art accessible to everyone. Ending: 21/03/2009 www.cowparademadrid.com/

TITANIC. REAl ObjECTS, REAl STORIESThis exhibition

held in Madrid shows more than 230 objects recovered from the shipwreck of this famous ship. Nearly 18 million people have already visited this international exhibition.Ending: 15/02/2009Venue: Plaza de Colón (Pasaje Carlos iii)Price: weekdays, 15.50 €; weekends, 17.50 €Metro: Colón/ Serrano

madrid agenda compiled in collaboration with esmadrid

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Ireland, Scotland, France, the Czech Republic… If we were to believe all the claims of the different churches to holding his last remains, Saint Valentine would have more bones than the dustbins of KFC in La Puerta Del Sol after a particularly good day’s business. Nevertheless, a collection of bones (including a femur) certified by the Vatican as belonging to the saint turned up somewhere that may surprise you. Christopher Sinclair Christian tells us where and recounts Spain’s real-life Romeo and Juliet story, the tragedy of Los Amantes de Teruel.

Ye lovers get this! St. Valentine is alive and well in Madrid!

When excavations on a mass scale were being carried out in the catacombs of Rome during the eighteenth century, archaeologists stumbled upon the remains of numerous saints and martyrs. The Pope came up with the brilliant scheme of distributing the relics among the churches in europe. Madrid had the privilege of receiving some remains of the body of St. Valentine. The relics of the venerated saint were preserved in the crypt at San Antón School, the annexe to the San Antón Church (Calle Hortaleza) until 1986 when the ecclesiastical authorities decided to display the remains of the saint on 14 February thereafter. Shifting scenes from from the capital Cupid leads us to Teruel (on the east coast, 145 kilometres from Valencia) where the city comes alive in the third week of February. Whilst lovers all over the world are lavishing a lot of attention on their soul mates, the turolenses (the denizens of the city) revel in a four-day festival, reviving a thirteenth century tale of star-crossed lovers – their own version of Romeo and Juliet. Childhood sweethearts Juan Diego de Marcilla and isabel de Segura sought their parents’ consent to be wed. They were made for each other but isabel’s father Don Pedro Segura, a wealthy and heartless man, thought otherwise as Diego was undaunted and made a request for a grace period to go out into the world and seek his fortune. Don Pedro, a crafty man who knew Diego’s family since he was a child, granted him five years to return rich and marry isabel. The passionate young man enlisted in the army and strode right into the heart of battle, taking

up arms against the Moors. Just before the time was up, Pedro Segura found a suitor from neighbouring Albarracin and married off his daughter, much against her will. When Diego returned in triumph and learned of the marriage, and in desperation, the broken-hearted man repaired to isabel’s chamber and pleaded with the young lass for a last kiss. isabel was shocked and upset. Not a word, not a kiss, she remained motionless. Thereupon, Diego fell to the floor. His heart had stopped beating. isabel explained about her childhood sweetheart to her husband in haste. The man was perplexed but listened attentively. Hurriedly, they carried the corpse into the cold night and eventually laid the body near the Marcilla family’s abode. The next day, as the pall bearers bore the coffin through the bleak street, a tall and graceful woman clad in black stepped up behind the mourners. The lady followed the solemn march. When the coffin was placed on the ground for the requiem mass, the dame bent down to plant a kiss on the cold lips of the deceased. The mourners sighed. Then all of a sudden, the lady in black breathed her last and collapsed. it was isabel… if they could not be joined together in life, they would be united in death. Akin to the Montagues and Capulets, the two families grieved together and buried the lovers side by side. in 1555, the mummies of the lovers were unearthed. yagüe de Salas, the then notary, examined the documents and attested to their authenticity. Today, Diego and isabel lie together beneath their respective statues in the

brilliantly sculpted mausoleum by Juan de Alves at the Church of San Pedro.in the third week of February, the historical quarters of the city take on a medieval air. The story of Diego and isabel is re-enacted and the whole city becomes a pageant of colour, medieval music and folklore. Medieval markets spring up around Teruel, allowing the visitor to get a glimpse of the city as it was in days gone by. So, for a unique romantic experience, why not try Teruel this year? Love has something to do with Madrid and a lot to do with Teruel. Buses to Teruel from Madrid: estación del Sur, Méndez Alvaro (metro line 6). More information about Teruel: www.turismodearagon.com

SAINT VAlENTINE’S DAY DON’T MISS

14 FeBruary

Recovered relics andSpain’s real-life Romeo and Juliet

STAR WARS, ThE ExhIbITION Madrid has finally been hit by the world’s largest Star Wars

exhibition, comprising 245 original props from the six-film saga, including space ships, costumes, sketches, drawings, models… and even a training session with two Jedi masters. (See european Vibe magazine No.27 for full review)Ending: 15/03/2009Venue: Centro de exposiciones Arte CanalPrice: 10 €Metro: Plaza de Castilla www.starwars-theexhibition.com

FRANCIS bACONThe work of Francis Bacon, who at the age of 35 destroyed practically everything

he had painted till then, can now be seen at the Museo del Prado. From marginalization to consecration, this exhibition offers us an extraordinarily lucid journey through hell. During the 1940s and 50s, a time when abstraction was the dominant mode, Bacon expanded the possibilities of figurative art and became a remarkable artist, whose work clearly advocates feelings.Ending: 19/04/2009Venue: Museo del Prado (Paseo del Prado s/n)Price: 6 €Metro: Atocha

museums

REINA SOFÍA(Santa isabel, 52) Metro: AtochaOpen: Monday to Saturday 10.00 until 21.00. Sundays 10.00 until 14.00. Tuesdays closed. mUSEO DEl pRADO (Paseo del Prado s/n) Metro: AtochaOpen: Tuesday to Sunday from 9.00 until 19.00. Mondays closed. mUSEO ThYSSEN bORNEmISzA(Paseo del Prado, 8) Metro: Atocha, Banco de españa. Tuesday to Sunday from 9.00 until 19.00. Mondays closed.

Quizzes

ANYWAY pUb QUIz NIGhT- Thursday from 23.00 in Anyway Pub. Viriato, 64. Metro: iglesia.IRISh ROVERevery monday at 21:00, upstairs in the library. Join us to spark up a brain cell after the weekend. Avenida del Brasil, 7. Metro: Santiago Bernabeau.mOORES Pub quiz in english every Monday at 21.45 in Moores irish Pub, Calle Barcelo. Lots of prizes and great fun. everyone welcome. Metro: Tribunal.

Theme parks

pARQUE DE ATRACCIONES (Fun fair) Open Weekends. Metro: Batán. Bus lines 33 & 65. Tel: 91 463 2900 e-mail: [email protected] DE mADRIDAvda. del Planetario, 16. Tel: 91 467 34 61Metro: Méndez álvaro. Closed MondaysWARNER bROS pARKOpen daily from June to Mid-September and on chosen weekends and holidays during the rest of the year. Call to confirm opening times.Take the bus from Legazpi Plaza or the train from Atocha Tel: 902 024 100www.warnerbrospark.com

sporT

REAl mADRID estadio Santiago Bernabéu. Avenida de Concha espina, 1. Tel: 91 398 43 00

www.realmadrid.es ATlETICO mADRIDestadio Vicente Calderón. Paseo Virgen del Puerto, 67. Metro: Pirámides. Tel: 91 366 47 07 www.clubatleticodemadrid.com

Cb ESTUDIANTES bASKETbAll Madrid Arena, Serrano 127, 28006 Madrid Tel: 902 400 002

www.clubestudiantes.comREAl mADRID CbPabellon Raimundo Saporta, Paseo de La Castellana, Madrid. Tel: 91 398 43 32, or check out www.realmadridbasket.galeon.com

Fun aCTiViTies

AERObAlAS SKY-DIVING SChOOl - Aerodromo de Casa de los Pinos, Cuenca. Tandem parachute jumps from 110 euros. Call 610 408 831 or 667 512 102 www.aerobalas.compAlACIO DE hIElO - Skating rink, bowling lanes and cinema. C Silvano, 77, Parque Conde de Orgaz. Metro: CanillaszOO-AQUARIUm DE mADRIDCasa de Campo Metro: Casa de Campo. Tel: 91 512 3770. Adults: 14.90 €. Children 3-7 years old and pensioners: 12.20 €. Children under 3: free entry. SKI-KAmEl SpORTOUR.C Feijoo,9, on the corner with C Cardenal Cisneros, 72 (Quevedo). Tel: 91 446 0221. www.skikamel.com

nighT liFe

WEDNESDAY NIGhTS

VIbE the party @ Orange CaféNow legendary international party with Hip Hop and RnB music taking place every Wednesday night at Orange Café , Serrano Jover 5, Metro Argüelles. Open Bar of beer, sangria and wine and beer pong games from 11:30 pm - 12.30 am for only 5 euros. From 12:30 till close, entrance with 2 drinks included for 10 euros. Get on the guest list at www.europeanvibe.com

ThURSDAY NIGhTS

FEVER @ joy Eslava The ultimate Student Party. every Thursday night Madrid’s most famous club becomes a Disco sensation with spectacular animation and the best music from the 1970s till present day. Free entrance or 2 drinks for 10 euros from midnight till 1:30 am, or entrance price with 2 drinks for 12 euros from 1:30 am till close. Joy eslava, calle Arenal 11, Metro Sol / ópera. Get on the guest list at www.europeanvibe.com

FRIDAY NIGhTS

FAbUlOUS @ joy Eslava This is arguably Madrid’s most Glamorous club night and is in session every Friday night at the Joy eslava located in the central Puerta del Sol area of the city. Burlesque style animation, exclusive ViP zones and the biggest House and mainstream tunes all night long. Are you Fabulous enough to be there? Joy eslava, calle Arenal 11. Metro Sol/ Opera. Get guest list access to this party by signing up at www.europeanvibe.com

what’s on?madrid agenda compiled in collaboration with esmadrid


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25 FeBruary sanTiago BernaBéu

DON’T MISS

Spanish League Tickets

- English Premiership- Champions League

- Italian Serie A

Real Madrid, Atlético Madrid,

Barcelona, Valencia...

Contact details:www.1st4footballtickets.com

[email protected]: +34 918110470

REAl mADRID - lIVERpOOl

Time had it that the thought of several thousand Scousers coming to town had the locals anywhere running for cover. An invasion of shell suits, barcode moustaches and sticky fingers as yosser Hughes and the boys descended upon the peace-loving peoples of Middle europe. Liverpool has an undeserved reputation as being a bit rough but if you actually visited the 2008 european City of Culture, not a friendlier place would you find. And so Madrid is safe once more… The Second Round Champions’ League tie is coming up this month and you probably have a better chance of getting a ticket for the (sold out) AC/DC concert in April than Bernabéu on the 25th (unless you spend a LOT of money) The two sides, Liverpool and Real Madrid, have been faring quite differently this season, with Real switching managers and heavily trailing Barcelona. Defeat is not an option for the Castilian kings. Meanwhile the Reds are riding high and putting on their first serious chase for the league title since their 1980s glory days. Rafa Benitez is also competing for most unhinged Premiership manager after his recent (semi-justified) spat with Alex Ferguson. Both teams’ fixture lists in the run up to the big night are fairly light, although Liverpool have to play the eccentrically high-spending Man City beforehand. The risk is that City may have offered Pelé a half billion to coax him out of retirement. Local interest of course is high with golden boy Fernando Torres returning for a visit. Real fans should have mixed emotions over the former Atlético star, who won the national side a european Championship, returning to haunt the Bernabéu. Benitez himself is returning to his former employers at Real, having managed their youth and reserve sides. Defender álvaro Arbeloa, a former player under Benitez at Real, will be back too. And if you fancy annoying Arbeloa’s family, simply head over to Finbar’s pub in Argüelles where they are a regular sight during televised Liverpool games. So how much of a travelling fan are you? i’ve been at a few european away games with Celtic’s travelling support and you see some sights there. (Like the Glaswegian in Milan with “Ma’ burd thinks i’m away tae the shop for a loaf and six pints of milk” printed on the back of his shirt.) Liverpool’s another club that pulls a big travelling support, and you really see the most colourful fans on these trips. Half the craic’s outside the game, so if you want some advice, pop your head in the door of one of the bars in the city centre or up the side of Bernabéu on match day. Look out especially for “Christmas trees”: Fans that are top to toe in club regalia. you get all sorts at the big games, and believe me, these people look like a bag of liquorice allsorts…

Reserve your

Real Madrid vs Liverpool

tickets now.

Both legs available!!

25 February Santiago Bernabéu

10 March Anfield

8 feb 09

vibes

Noel Gallagher is an unlikely prophet. Unfussy and direct, he lectures with measured conviction, a glassy stare, and with those

famous Thunderbirds eyebrows raised upwards a fraction, pulling his face into a sneer. It was 11am on 12th September 2001, the day after the end of the world, when the nMe magazine caught up with noel and his equally buoyant brother, liam, for an interview. “What a fucking waste of life! There’s gonna be a race war,” noel shook his head. “You know what it’s like in the Midwest, fucking old chip polishing his M16 he uses to kill deer sat watching it thinking, ‘right! Where’s the nearest fucking arab?’ … George Bush’s dad is just gonna be, ‘Son? This is your destiny.’ Well, it’s the end of the world innit? … no wonder we take drugs! It’s just fucking, fucking, spectacularly fucked up.” every bit the chief quip raconteur, Gallagher has always had a gruff knack for savage clarity. But that September morning saw him demonstrating an almost telescopic ability to peer into america’s future, and, seven years on, the interview reads like a bizarre mash up of

nostradamus with a good dollop of Tourette’s thrown in. But history is going to remember Gallagher for his music and not his stargazing. at one point in about 1995, you couldn’t visit a bus stop, post office or walk past a building site without hearing someone or other whistling the melody to a track off Morning Glory or Definitely Maybe. news of the Gallaghers’ spat with Blur in the Battle of Britpop would trump any of John Major’s tomfoolery in the news bulletins, and when Tony Blair finally swept into Downing Street on his landslide in 1997, the second thing he did after granting The Bank of england independence was to invite noel around for a drink. “We’re never going to make an album again as big as Definitely Maybe or Morning Glory,” noel confessed to Mojo last year. “But then nobody else will do either. Tell me one recent British band who’ve sold 25 million albums in three years and defined a generation

– there isn’t one, is there?” Oasis are edging towards a comfortable position amongst the British rock royalty. Tour dates are being snapped up by a greedy public, latest offering Dig Out Your Soul is selling well, they’ve experienced a recent revival of

fortunes in america, and both Gallaghers are settling down comfortably into middle age with partners and children. always the more brash and unpredictable of the siblings,

liam, recently announced to an interviewer: “I’ve gotta go an’ blow some balloons up, me! Blowing balloons up, fookin’ dressed as postman pat… fookin’ pure rock n’ roll.” Oasis’ place in history has not always been so assured. at the turn of the century they

were being dismissed from all quarters as a washed up band of miserable Mancunians

with little new to offer. noel had wound up the

millennium divorced and getting over a coke problem; guitar player Bonehead and bass player

Guigsy had jumped off the ship as it had begun to founder and liam, nursing a divorce of his own, was being depicted by the tabloids as nothing more than an archetypal northern scallywag – bashing photographers and getting his teeth knocked through his mouth in a Munich hotel. looking back, noel confessed to the nMe in 2001, “Well, everybody has a shit period, and hopefully we’ve had ours… This new album is mega (Standing on the Shoulder of Giants), it’s not just, ‘well fuck it, that’ll do,’ which is what Be Here Now should have been called.’’ Scruffy and foul-mouthed perhaps, but Oasis are a far better advert for Britain than any of these X Factor types will ever be. I don’t know if it’s me, but there’s something sinister about Simon cowell and his ivory white grin, dictating our christmas number ones and whether I am going to like Tracey from northampton and not Kevin from Bristol. With Oasis there’s substance, attitude and passion. “We never started this band as a career move”, noel once pointed out. “We did it because we were bored shitless and we were all on the dole. We never asked for fucking 20 million record sales, it just came about, yknowhatimean?” life in Oasis may no longer be the coke-driven circus of the 1990s, but when things liven up, explained guitarist Gem recently, ‘Then it kicks off big time.’ The last in the never ending series of fallouts between noel and liam occurred last year when liam ditched the band half way through recording sessions for Dig Out Your Soul, flew back to england and married his girlfriend nicole appleton in secret. Deprived of their vocalist, Oasis had to scrap some of the album’s most promising material and noel was left seething: “I’m sorry, but when you get married you’ve got a debt to the ‘60s to get over to Gibraltar and have it rotten with all of your mates on a big bender. not sneak into a registry office in Marylebone then have sandwiches at the hotel next door… I don’t give a shit about the fact that he didn’t invite me to the wedding – he didn’t invite me to his last one – it’s when it affects our job of work it infuriates me.” a prickly liam brushed this off in Mojo, ‘Me and the missus decided to do it. That’s it. It was private. Our kid [noel] should get over it. I wouldn’t be upset, I wouldn’t want to go to his wedding anyway.’ nearing two decades in the same band, it seems that the siblings have yet to develop a talent for verbal niceties. rock n’ roll scrapes, cat fights, walk outs, drugs, alcohol and women; the world would be a poorer place without the Gallaghers. liam had the final dig recently: “as much as he hates to admit it, noel’s a cunt just like me. But he’s an ugly cunt and I’m a good looking cunt. That’s the difference.”

“Why do americans think they’re electing the president of The WOrlD?” - no, this isn’t a question set by a Sociology lecturer in a university classroom, it’s Oasis’ noel Gallagher, who has come to be asked about and quoted on virtually every media issue for his coherent and directly expressed opinions. as Oasis land in Madrid mad for their gig at the palacio de los Deportes, peter Moore wonders if it’s still just rock n’ roll from the brothers it makes no sense to censor.WORDS by peteR MOORe

oasis

madrid for it

feb 09 9

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Sala heineken C Princesa, 1 (www.ticktackticket.com, 90 215 0025) joy Eslava C Arenal, 11 (913 665 439) Sala El Sol C Jardines 3 Metro: Sol (www.elsolmad.com 91 532 6490) Sala live Ntra Sra. de Fátima 42 Metro eugenia de Montijo. (91 525 54 44) Teatro häagen-Dazs Calderón C Atocha, 18 Metro: Tirso de Molina (www.teatrohaagen-dazs.es)

SUNDAY MONDAY TUESDAY WEDNESDAY THURSDAY FRIDAY SATURDAY

palacio de Deportes de la Comunidad de madrid Avenida de Felipe ii, s/n (www.servicaixa.com 902 33 22 11) la Riviera Pº Bajo de la Virgen del Puerto, (www.servicaixa.com 902 33 22 11) *Venue provisionally closed by city council pending appeal moby Dick Avda. de Brasil, 5 Metro: Cuzco / Santiago Bernabeu (www.ticktackticket.com, 902 15 00 25) Sala Caracol C Bernardino Obregón 18 ( , 902 15 00 25) Telefónica Arena madrid Metro: Line 10 (Lago) Line 6 (Alto de extremadura) www.telefonicaarenamadrid.com


madrid agenda compiled in collaboration with esmadrid

FEbruary 10

RuGBy FOOTBALL

mark lanegan & Greg Dulli

pablo milanes

Tindersticks Gente D’zona (pmm) herman Dune

Steve Wynn feat. Chris Cacavas

The Script The Fuzztones

Elodio & los Seres Quridos

Kaiser Chiefs & Dananananaykroyd

Kings of leon

los chicos del hormiguero

los chicos del hormiguero

Soulfly

lordi

luis Eduardo Aute Palacio de Congresos

Rebeca jiménez

Oasis

heartbreak

Doctor pitangú TV personalities

The Steepwater band

The Diamonds Dogs & Arizona baby

CSN

los Suaves

pink Turns blue

The muffs Nosequien & los

Nosecuantos

Travis

Chico Ocaña

hammerfall

Deathstars Sidecars

Nacho Vegas

Dragonforce

Covenant + xmh

Antonio Vega & Sulivan

MARcH

Liverpool v Chelsea

Tottenham v Arsenal

81st Academy Awards

CARLiNG CuP FinalTottenham v Man utd

Real Madrid v Racing

Atletico v Valladolid

Atletico v Getafe italy v ireland

De/Vision

Amanda palme

metal hammer Tribute Festival

lujuria

Avalanch

Christina Rosenvinge

beatriz luengo

ponytail

Killfest Tour 2009

1 2 3 4 6 7 5

8 9 11 13 14

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> new cd releases intuition Jamie Foxx

Mr Foxx has blazed a trail as comedian and actor before blowing up as a singer. This follow up to his double platinum release Unpredictable calls upon all the main men of 2008. Guest appearances by T.i, Lil Wayne, Ne-yo, Kanye and T-Pain spells Ching Ching!! I Don’t Need It is A Killer Track!

wall of sound Naturally 7 Just the other day i was thinking where are the groups like Boyz ii Men and Jodeci. Well, Naturally 7 are destined to reach great heights in 2009. The album features many cool accapella style moments and covers of tracks such as Broken Wings, In The Air Tonight and Bridge over Troubled Water.

DJ Cosy O’s Urban Review10 tunes that you should

have been getting down to this month Check out where cosy o will be spinning this month at www.djcosyo.com

RihannaBad girl

1Justin TimberlakeBigger Than The World

2O’Neal McKnight feat. Jermaine Dupri and DiddyCheck Your Coat

3T-pain feat. Justin TimberlakeCan’t Believe It

4B-Real feat. Damien MarleyFire

5

RihannaHow I like It

6T.O.KWhining

750 CentGet Up

8LL cool JYou Better Watch Me

9Q TipGetting Up

10

mogwai medina Azahara

Sala Old School

Fondo Flamenco Palacio Vistalegre

mastretta Galileo Galilei mastretta Galileo Galilei

Scotland v Wales

england v italyireland v France

Arsenal v RomaAtletico v Portointer Milan v Man utd

Chelsea v JuventusReal Madrid v Liverpool Villarreal v Panathinaikos

Rep of ireland v Georgia

France v ScotlandWales v england

ireland v englandScotland v italy

France v Wales Real Madrid v Real Betis

the Best oF international maDriD

The votes for our second annual Vibe Awards are in and counted. The

ever-growing English-speaking international community in Madrid

has a healthy and varied network of businesses around it. They keep

us in touch with our home cultures and enrich the city we live in, and

excellence in these ventures is something that we believe deserves

rewarding.

Voters by ballot box, email and post had the chance to win the prize

of two tickets to Paris courtesy of . After painstakingly

ensuring all voters who supplied an email address were included,

the lucky winner to come out of the draw was David Bravo.

Congratulations to him and we hope he enjoys the trip (bring us back

an Eiffel Tower fridge magnet). The only drama of this year’s voting

process was the theft of the ballot box from a bar. Maybe the thief

thought the two tickets to Paris were in the box.

Here is the best of Madrid’s Vibe Community 2008-2009:

viBe AwArds

2008 - 2009

EV Bartender of the Year Marta

A far cry from the “Whadda you want?” looks and, “God, I am not your slave, anyone would think you were

paying for this!” sighs of waiters in many madrileño ‘old man bars’, customer service is on a higher level in

Madrid’s international bars. Our top voted candidate, with enough fans to start her own religion, was Marta

from Public House. You can find our new Bartender of the Year doing what she does so well in this (deceptively

big) pub on Calle Fernández de los Ríos in Moncloa.

Finest Service

Irish RoverNo surprises for me here- Despite

the bar being big enough to make it

look like a street and being one of the

busiest Irish bars in town, the Irish

Rover provides consistently excellent

service. It’s a real tribute to the staff

of the Avenida de Brasil pub that they

can keep up such a level of service

to such a broad clientele. A special

mention goes to bartender Alan

Griffin who came runner up in the

Bartender of the Year category.

sponsoreD by

Best Pint of

Guinness

vibe awardsirish rover

MArtAFrom public house

shAMrocks

the Best oF international maDriD

Best Place for English Books

J & J Books and Coffee

We don’t realise how lucky we are in Madrid in terms of English bookshops;

in many European cities we would be scrabbling around scant collections

of English books at high prices. Here, however, we are spoilt for choice with

several great specialists in English books. Your pick of the bunch was J &

J Books and Coffee, who can boast a buzzing little bar in addition to their

basement full of books in English.

Best Bar/Pub Food

The James Joyce

You can’t get far drinking without your

stomach asking you for a little attention

and, in a pub, what you want is real pub

food. Throw any old rubbish in and you’ll

soon start to harbour deep regrets. That’s

why, for the second year in a row, the

James Joyce, slap bang between Plaza

de Cibeles and Puerta de Alcalá, is such a

trusted oasis for quality bar meals in our

voters’ eyes.

Intercambio

of the Year

Anyway PubWhat you want in a language

exchange is an atmosphere in

which you can feel relaxed and

comfortable enough to practise

your language skills and make

friends. That’s clearly what they’ve

achieved in the cosy little Anyway

Pub on Calle Viriato in the heart of

Chamberí. Their weekly Spanglish

pub quiz is a great way to

reinforce the intercambio, too.

Language Academy of

the Year International House

As much as many schools try to sell you a ‘method’, the

simple fact is that any language academy is only as

good as its teaching staff. What you look for as a student

is the best quality teaching and attention while keeping

an eye on the affordability of prices. Number one on the

long list of language schools for European Vibe readers

this year is International House. Congratulations!

Club/Society of

the Year Erasmus

We hadn’t envisaged Erasmus being considered

a club, but so many of you voted to honour the

community of European Union students that we

couldn’t really argue with it. The unforgettable and

life-changing experience that an Erasmus year is

wouldn’t be nearly as rewarding without the support

of the fellow students who live through the good

and bad of surviving in a new country with you. You

have to wonder what the fifteenth and sixteenth

century theologian Desiderius Erasmus would have

made of it all.

Voting for the Vibe Awards 2009-2010 will begin in November 2009.

Best Pint

of Guinness

ShamrocksLast year’s Newcomer of the Year

Shamrocks have scooped the award

that would make any Irish pub proud.

A great pint of Guinness across the road

from an Egyptian temple might sound

like a mirage, but across the road from

the Templo de Debod on Pintor Rosales

that’s exactly what you get. It’s got a

nice big downstairs bit, too.

Restaurant

of the Year

Hard Rock Cafe

Restaurants have to work hard to

keep you coming back with so much

competition for your custom in the

city. The one most of you voted for

needs no introduction and its iconic

location in Plaza Colón must mean

it ranks highly in its own prestigious

worldwide chain. Hard Rock combines

tasty food, world-class service (in

English if you like) with international

atmosphere.

the jAMes

joyce

j & j Books

And coffee

hArd rock

cAfe

internAtionAl

house

AnywAy PuB

erAsMus


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12 feb 09

back issuesAvailable: No 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, 11, 12, 13, 14, 15, 16, 17, 18, 19, 20, 21, 22, 23, 24, 25, 26, 27 2,50 euros each. Please list issue numbers required

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travel


travel euro weekender

WORDS by linn tReijS

venice

Maybe casanova, the infamous womaniser, was on to something as he haunted the canals of venice for new conquests. after a few hours on foot in the city on the sea, you will realise that there is more here then meets the eye. The light, the buildings and the maze of streets. and that the best way to discover it, is to let yourself get lost.

venice is one of those places you should try to see at least once in your life. The ancient air that encom-passes it and the apparent lack of cars is truly an experience. and it will not be here forever. The queen of the adriatic Sea is literally sinking.

venice is built on 117 mud banks in a lagoon, a few kilometres north of the river po’s estuary. The city has suffered, and still suffers, submersions several times a year. Movable barriers that will control the water flow into the lagoon are under construction, and laws have been introduced to keep water pollution to the

minimum. But as the houses are built on poles, constantly sinking further down in the mud, and the water level is continu-ously rising due to climate change, it’s a race against the clock. however dark the situation, venice does not really seem to be depressed about it. She continues to smile on the 20 mil-

lion tourists that visit her per year. While other cities have their avenues and boulevards, venice is proud to present canal Grande. There are about 150 canals in venice, and they all offer an excellent sneak peak into everyday venetian life. You soon realise how many functions they have, more than just offering a comfort-able way to get around as a tourist.

If you want to travel on water there are both vaporetti (water-busses) and traghetto (ferries), if not, a gon-dola is your first pick. venice is divided into five areas: cannaregio, San polo/Santa croce, Dorsoduro, San Marco and castello. The natural centre point is San Marco with Saint Mark’s Square. Occasionally, when the square is flooded, it’s covered with wooden planks to keep the tourists’ shoes dry.

Despite all the different boats that will carry you up and down canal Grande, the best way to discover venice is by foot. Without the usual noise from cars and buses, and without the exhaust fumes, you will feel free as a bird. The streets can be more than narrow, so

don’t overlook what seems like just a chink between two walls: it might actually be a pathway.

The city also intertwines itself with 446 bridges. Ponte dei Rialto, rialto Bridge, is the oldest one of four to cross canal Grande. a more legendary one is Ponte dei Sospiri (bridge of sighs), built as a passage between a prison and the cross-examination room. according to the legend, the prisoners would sigh as they sailed towards jail, knowing it would be the last time they saw the light of day.

after a few hours on your own, you will discover two things. First, that you are completely lost and you quite like it. and second, venice’s absolute resemblance to a labyrinth. Since the city was built on islands from the start, there does not seem to have been a clear street design plan. But maybe the venetians have another opinion. Their city dates as far back as the age of early antiquity, when its strategic position made it success-ful as a centre for sea trade. This was a golden era for the venetians who invented the first stock market, banking system, bookkeeping and bank bills.

The world famous seafarer Marco polo was raised here and brought back spices from his trips to china and the Far east, paving the way for the rest of eu-rope. venice and the lagoon around it were declared a UneScO World heritage Site in 1987, and since then numerous rescue plans have been launched to conserve the area. The biggest concern now is that the house prices, just like the sea level, are rising. venetians tend to sell their homes to foreigners who only go there a few weeks per year, making some blocks creepily empty and dark.

except for the mysterious light and the fog, which never seems to be far away, my strongest memory from venice is a nature-gone-wild experience on St. Mark’s Square. like so many others before me, I was being a bit too generous with my bun, ending up in a cloud of pigeons who all wanted their share. even though they are nothing but a pest to many, these birds have some-how become a natural part of the antique setting.

coming to venice in the winter can be a real find. You will have the city to yourself until February, when carnival hits town. It starts on the second of February and lasts for ten crazy days. Going back as far as 1268 it has developed some strong traditions. To start, wear-ing a mask is mandatory if you want to take part in the

Floating in Venicevenice has exported most things, being one of the oldest trade centres in the world, but its special brand of romance is something you can only find within the bounds of its canals. as linn Treijs explains, the city may be sinking, but it will set your heart soaring.

traveltravel

europeanViBemagazinesep 07 15

action. With your face hidden you will blend in, and notice that other people in masks start to greet you. The secret is that people wearing masks only greet others who do, the rest are ignored. If you are lucky you might even score an invitation to the Tiepolo-prom, the peak of the carnival that is held each year by a venetian baroness. If not, there are other places to go. Just like in the daytime, the action circles around St. Mark’s Square. here you will find harry’s bar, famous for their exquisite bellinis. They claim to have invented the glamor-ous drink made of peach juice and champagne. another popular hangout is café Florian, which might be the oldest café in the world. It opened in 1720 and has served coffee to legends like Dickens, Goethe and lord Byron ever since.

To sum up venice, think of her as a grand old lady who knows all the flirting tricks of casanova, and how to keep her feet dry in a storm. She can cook an excellent risotto and whip up a smashing bellini. She might have a bit of bad breath, but canals are not as easy to keep clean as normal streets. and although she is sinking, it ain’t over ‘til the old lady sings.

Floating in VeniceShort guide to Venice

How to get here: Vueling and Air europa have direct flights from Madrid to Marco Polo airport just outside Venice.Take with you: An extra pair of dry socks.Bring home: A cool mask that will guarantee some compliments next Halloween.remember: Most bridges in Venice also have stairs, so travelling in a wheelchair or with a pram might be a bit problematic.Try: Risotto alle seppie, with octopus and marinated sardines. The italian classics pizza and pasta are not as typical here, although you will easily find them on the tourist track.Don’t miss: The light at early morning and sunset is magical. Take a moment to let it charm you.Trivia: Some say Venice got its name form refugees coming to Venice in escape from the Huns, greeting the people already living there with Veni etiam (i have come here also)


weekendertravel

WORDS by Matt jOhnSOn

“…and it’s not over until they bury the life-size effigy of a sardine…” If you just caught that bit of a conversation, what would you think they were talking about? It is of course the legendary carnival of cádiz. Matt Johnson has been getting excited about it for the last month, and so will you be when you read this.

If you’ve found yourself standing in front of your shiny new 2009 calendar, staring hopelessly at the vast stretch of days until

holy Week, have no fear. There is in fact, a light at the end of our work-rat tunnels. and as we draw closer to that ever expanding, blinding brightness ahead, we begin to hear an echo of beats and rhythm. pretty soon our eardrums are met with shouts of revelry, choruses of song and laughter, and, what’s that? Fireworks? Before we know it, our heads are nodding in tune to a mysterious Spanish sonance, our toes start tapping in tune with drum cadences, and now, powerless to stop ourselves, we’re in the throes of a full on fit of fiesta fun. Then, as we emerge from this darkness into the light of day, we notice that we’re not only double fist-ing copas of sangría, but have mysteriously slipped out of our blue jeans and into – what’s that? a ballerina tutu and Mick-ey Mouse ears? Where in the wacky world are we? There can only be one definitive answer, amigos: carnival in cádiz.

considered to be the third larg-est carnival celebration behind rio De Janeiro and Trinidad, cádiz is temporarily trans-formed for ten days every Feb-ruary into one multi-coloured, living, breathing, drinking, and singing, party hotspot. Think Mardi Gras, sans the beads and

bare bodies. Instead, everyone dresses up in halloween-type fashion, with the only rule being: the more outlandish, creative, colourful, and clever the costume, the better.

Speaking of clothing apparel, if there’s one thing you must remember to pack, it’s your best pair of drinking shoes. carnival, like Mardi Gras, is if anything a celebration of excess, and if you can’t stick out the night to watch the sunrise on the beach, at least make sure not to crash in or near plaza San Juan de Dios, where La Taronda (The Thunder), the daily fireworks show, is held. Keep in mind: fireworks plus hangover equals ear-splitting torture, so use your head.

The cádiz celebration is also centred around song, and one needn’t look far for the goofy groups of chirigotas, singing their humorous parodies on politics, religion, and celebrity gossip. The residents of cádiz are known for their sense of hu-mour, so if you’re lucky enough to understand the lyrics, be a kind soul and translate for us linguistically challenged folk.

So fear not the endless monotony of the modern day work week, and take no heed of conspiratory calendars. carnival is coming – what more could one want to wipe away those wintertime woes?

WO

RDS

by l

uC

CiO

tKO

WSK

i

All about Cádiz

tired, tipsy and bad tempered is the best way to describe an ex-girlfriend and me after spending an hour and

a half walking in crooked circles around the old town of Cádiz trying to find our way back to our hostel. My orientation skills disappear when the sun goes down and everything looks different to me, and the beer that had gone down so well after a long day of sightseeing and sunbathing had rubbed away any last hint of a memory of how to get to our accommodation. it was pure luck that finally brought us gratefully to where we were staying. if i had to take the blame for getting lost, then my ex had to shoulder the responsibility for the school-girl error of leaving both the window and insect screen open for mosquitoes while we were out. i recognise the high probability that it was a fatigue-induced hallucination, but i’m sure i had to ask some of them to move so that i could get into bed.

Despite that June Saturday night’s internal GPS malfunction a few years ago, I returned from the weekend in Cádiz with the conviction that I’d discovered an absolute gem. The oldest continuously lived-in city in Western Europe, to wheel out the trivia. Cádiz was founded by the Phoenicians around 1100BC and has passed through the hands of the Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Visigoths, Moors and finally the Castilian Spanish claimed the city in the thirteenth century. Its strategic location and suitability as a port ensured its importance as a trading post from the start. Its unique geography in almost being an island, it is actually a peninsula joined to the continent by a very thin strip of land (or isthmus), made it very difficult to attack by land. Christopher Columbus set sail from the port on his second and fourth voyages to the Americas and, from that point, Cádiz began to command an important role as a main hub of transatlantic traffic.

The city was one of the first in the world to suffer from state-sponsored terrorism: Ottoman privateers tried several raids on Cádiz in the sixteenth century and the English pirate/naval hero Sir Francis Drake managed to capture the harbour and six ships, sink 31 other ships and decimate the port’s stores in 1587. The beginning of the eighteenth century, however, was when Cádiz really hit the jackpot. The increasing size of galleons

and the formation of sandbars along the River Guadalquivir made it no longer viable to continue Seville’s monopoly on New World trade, so Cádiz stepped up to become the home of the Spanish Treasure Fleet and therefore become one of the richest cities in the world.

Both Carnival and most of Cádiz’s interesting buildings come from the golden age of the city. Their Carnival was meant to emulate and rival the world famous celebrations of the time in Venice; the investment in serious partying is what set the tradition that carries on today. The cathedral is my favourite in Spain (sorry to all the rest), probably because the 116 years it took to build and the subsequent mix of styles make it so unique (and I love the giant trees brought back from the Americas which stand next to it).

The plazas in the old town are attractive and give the breathing space the tightly-packed area needs. The old Customs House and the Admiral House buildings you have to see to understand the kind of wealth that Spain squeezed from its colonies. Another landmark, more for its significance than its beauty this time, is the monument to the Spanish Constitution of 1812- one of the first modern liberal constitutions in the world, written by the Free Spanish Parliament in Cádiz as the port was one of the few Spanish cities not to fall to the Bonapartes’ forces and was a main centre of resistance to the French as the Spanish fought for their independence. The cámara oscura in the Tavira Tower is a worthwhile visit to understand Cádiz today. Just a few storeys high, the tower’s pinhole camera-style telescope and convex lens command views of the whole city and the Bay of Cádiz. That in itself is cool to see, but the listed-building status of most of the old town, strict construction limits and no more space to build is what has kept the place from turning into another Andalusian beach resort. It has two fantastic beaches and there is regular Spanish tourism (The Costa de la Luz has remained a mainly Spanish destination in comparison to the Mediterranean coastline), but Cádiz will never become a Marbella, Torremolinos or Benidorm. In fact, this lack of possibility for development is what limits the city’s economy and causes many young Gaditanos to try their luck elsewhere. In selfish terms for the visitor, this is what keeps Cádiz a wonderful destination for a weekend or short holiday. Just remember how to get back to your hotel.

Cádiz

CarnivalaboutAll

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map it out

>Bars

Anyway p.18Celtic Cross p.192 Chupito Sabor p.18

Irish Rover p.257 Kabokla p.9

Moore’s p.19 Shooters p.25

>Restaurants

Circus Noodle Bar p.21 48 Curry’s p.20 Curry House p.20 Estragon p.20 Guru p.20 Il Piccolino Della Farfalla p.20 La Cueva del Faisán p.20 La Farfalla p.20 La Herradura p.20 La Tía Cebolla p.21 19 Hard Rock p.20 Medina Mayrit p.21 Monks Bar & Restaurant p.21 Mr India p.20 22 Siam p.20 Taberna la Romana Real p.21 Taj p.20 Toma p.20

>Travel

Cosmopolia p.16 Vibe Traveller p.15, 17 & 35

>Shops

Bookworld p.31Up Beat Discos p.9

>Language Learning

Answer English p.33American Language Academy p.32 Carpe Diem p.33 Lingo Bongo p32Hot English p.32International House p.32 Madrid4Students p.33 Madrid Plus p.33 Training Express p.32

>Leisure

1st4footballtickets.com p.5 Medina Mayrit p.19 Yelmo cinemas p.23

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18 feb 09

>Parties

Fabulous p.2 Fever p.13 Vibe! The Party p.36

Sto. Domingo Callao Gran Vía

Sevilla

Sol

Opera

1517

1253

9

48

60

W hen i tell people where i live in Madrid, i usually get one of two reactions. The first is of jealousy at how i live so

central and how i can literally step out my front door and ‘be out’. The second is usually a grimace followed by a sharp intake of breath and the question, “How can you live there?! it’s so loud!”

eighteen months ago, i found myself at yet another dead end. The piece of paper in my hand said, “Cosy piso with views of Madrid”. Facing the building, it should have said, “Crumbly old flat with views of brick wall and other peoples’ windows”. And not half an hour before, a middle-aged man had opened his door in nothing but black leather hot pants, satisfyingly informing me that, “it would just be the two of us living here”. The flat hunt was not going well. The next on my list said Barrio de las Letras. using my vast knowledge of Spanish at the time, i quickly made the translation and formed the words, asking myself, “Neighbourhood of the letters?”

However, walking through this Neighbourhood of the Letters, i suddenly started to question how this part of Madrid had possibly evaded me during my amblings around the city. Life leaped out at you from every corner (including one or two homeless people asking

for money). Jazz bands, street artists, flower sellers, tour groups; the whole place really buzzed with life.

After living there for a year and a half, i must admit that i do have to sleep with earplugs every night to drown out the noise of the botellones taking place beneath my balcony. And yes, sometimes the cars backed up in Plaza Santa Ana do play the annoying game of who can press the car horn the longest. And again, yes, probably the only time it’s quiet is between 6am-8am on a Sunday morning. But would i trade it all in for a different barrio? No way.

Barrio de las Letras (also known as Barrio de los Literatos / de las Musas) is simply a fantastic and energetic neighbourhood to live in, albeit a

loud one. it has lots of history and many of the residents in the area are budding

actors. Any decent tourist guide will tell you that

it was once home to some of Spain’s

most talented writers including Lope de Vega, Quevedo, Góngora and

of course, Cervantes. you’ll also find that celebrities like Frank Sinatra and Humphrey Bogart have passed through the area. it’s no wonder really, as it’s situated pretty much in

the centre of Madrid near Sol, Antón Martín, Tirso de Molina and Paseo del Prado. its bars and restaurants almost outnumber the people, and what's more, the area attracts many street performers including

classical guitarists, saxophonists, live jazz bands and flamenco dancers, as well as playing host to el Teatro español, the oldest theatre in Spain.

The area suits me because as a foreigner living in Madrid, i don’t need the quiet life just yet and luckily for me, both my Spanish and international friends always seem to want to meet there. Hmm, fine by me!

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Portazgo

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Alto del Arenal

Miguel Hern‡ndez

Sierra de Guadalupe

Villa de Vallecas

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Hospital 12 de Octubre

San Ferm’n-Orcasur

Ciudad de los ‡ngeles

Villaverde Bajo Cruce

San Crist—bal

VILLAVERDE ALTO

Aviaci—n Espa–ola

Cuatro Vientos

Joaqu’n Vilumbrales

ParqueLisboa

Alcorc—nCentral

El BercialSanNicasio

Hospital Severo Ochoa

Casa del Reloj

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Loranca

Hospital deFuenlabrada

ParqueEuropa

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Parque delos Estados

ArroyoCulebro

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Hospitalde M—stoles

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Los Espartales

El Casar

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Campo de las Naciones

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Simancas

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Estadio Ol’mpico

Barrio del Puerto

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HOSPITAL DE HENARES

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map it out

feb 09 19

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MOORES PLAZA MAYOR c/Felipe III, 4Tel: 91 365 5802 SolLIVE FOOTBALL, BEST PUB-GRUB IN MADRID, BEST PUB FOR ALL SPORTS & BEST BIG SCREEN

MOORES BARCELó c/Barceló, 1

Tel: 91 532 6331 TribunalMONDAY TO FRIDAY: MENÚ DEL DÍA.

THURSDAY: TERTULIA, STUDENT NIGHT + COCKTAILS.

SATURDAY & SUNDAY: SPORTS ALL DAY. PUB QUIZ EVERY MONDAY NIGHT

TERRAZA

GUTS FUSSION c/Gutiérrez Solana, 6Tel: 91 561 5668 Bernabéu OPEN 11AM-5PM. MOORE’S LA CUEVA BAR DE COPAS, THURSDAYS, FRIDAY & SATURDAY DJs. CHART MUSIC. WE ORGANISE PRIVATE PARTIES www.guts.es

now fREE wi-fi

in All ThREE bARs

www.europeanvibe.com>>

THE BIGGEST SMALL BAR IN TOWNGood beer, good sports, good times

Open everyday from 1pm. Traditional food. Take-away available. Pint bottles of cider. Plasma TV, darts and Free wi-fi internet. All the Premiership and La Liga action live.

Best Pint of

Guinness

vibe awards2007 / 2008

www.thecelticcross.netc/Maldonado, 14. Tel: 91 431 61 90. Metro: Nuñez de Balboa.

MEDINA MAYRIT

RESERVAS: 902 333 334

Empresa patrocinadora de

RestoreYour Personal

Wellness And Balance

www.medinamayrit.com :: www.hammamsdealandalus.com

ARABIC BATHS:: RESTAURANT:: TEAROOM:: BAZAAR

Special Sports Menu

My Metro

February 2009

food eat out guideWhere are you going to take your loved one for Valentine’s Day?

20 feb 09

Vegetarian

Indian

Taj Mahal c/ Belén, 12 Chueca/Alonso Martínez

Bright, colourfully furnished indian restaurant located in Madrid’s trendy Chueca area. Open since 1985, it is a busy little place and quite reasonably priced at around 18/20€ per head. 3 course lunch or “menu del día” is served from 1.30pm- 4.30pm, dinner from 8.30pm- 12.30am. Open every day. Tel: 91 391 4586

Guru Indian Restaurant c/ Echegaray 21 Sol/ Sevilla

Traditional indian restaurant- offering a variety of rich indian cuisine infused with the best authentic ingredients. Located in the centre of Madrid and open daily 1-4 pm and 8-12 pm. Set menu available everyday from 1-4 pm for 9.95€. Tel: 91 360 0706 www.gurumadrid.es

Curry’s Indian Restaurant c/ Silva, 16 Callao

Brand new indian restaurant located in the Heart of Madrid. Traditional Punjab dishes served by friendly indian staff. Call for details of special Bollywood dancing shows performed in the restaurant.Open 1-4pm and 8pm-midnight. Tel: 91 523 4570 www.currys.es

enjoy a wide variety of traditional indian cuisine. With over 40 dishes to choose from, you will be spoilt for choice. Open daily 1-4 pm and 8.30-11.30 pm.Set menu and take away food available.www.restaurantetaj.com

Taj c/ Cruz 13 Sol/Sevilla. Tel: 91 522 3595c/ Marqués De Cubas 6 Banco de España. Tel: 91 531 5059 / 91 521 63 27

Mexican /Tex-Mex

American

La Herradura c/ Montserrat, 32 San Bernardo/Plaza de España

experience our traditional Mexican cuisine in an authentic atmosphere. in a relaxed environment enjoy one of our specialities, the fajitas, mixtas and prawn tacos. With space for large groups, there is fun for everyone! Open Mon-Thurs: 1pm-4pm and 8pm-12pm, Friday to Sunday: 1pm-4pm and 8pm to 1:30 am. Tel: 91 542 3936www.cantinalaherradura.com.es

Basilicco Santa Teresa, 12 ( Alonso Martinez). Tel: 91 308 0102 El Gaucho Tetuán, 34 ( Sol). Tel: 91 522 4793 La Vaca Argentina Bailén, 20 ( La Latina). Tel: 91 365 6654

Argentinian

Il Piccolino Della Farfalla c/ Huertas, 6 Antón Martín La Farfalla c/ Santa María, 17 Antón Martín

Centrally located Argentinian steak house with a rustic, welcoming atmosphere. enjoy traditional Argentinian cuisine such as pizza, pasta, and grilled meat. Variety of vegetarian options available. Open every day ‘til late. Average price 15/20€ per head, lunch menu only 9,50€.Il Piccolino Della Farfalla Tel: 91 369 4391La Farfalla Tel: 91 369 4691

Cuban

SIAM c/ San Bernardino, 6 Plaza de España/Noviciado

Authentic Thai cuisine, in exotic, intimate surroundings. Good service, friendly atmosphere. english menu available. extensive à la carte menu, lunch and evening specials. Open 12-4pm and 8pm-12pm. Non-smoking. Tel: 91 559 8315

Mister India

Brand new indian restaurant in Madrid! exquisite indian cuisine, in a stunning and central location, right beside Madrid’s famous Plaza Mayor. Terrace now open. Tel: 913 669 099 Mob: 662 503 469

Plaza de la Provincia, 3 Sol/Antón Martin Plaza de Lavapies, 5 Lavapies

Hard Rock offers genuine American food and we create an authentic dining experience in a Rock ‘n’Roll atmosphere: live music and museum. The Big Game! American Football final party in an unforgettable atmosphere. Sunday, 1st February Open every day 12:30-03:000am Tel:+ 00 34 91 436 43 40 www.hardrock.com

Hard Rock Cafe Pº de la Castellana, 2 Colón/Serrano

Modern/International Cuisine

El Estragón Pl. Paja, 10 Madrid de los Austrias La Latina

A pleasant surprise for non-vegetarians. Rustic, Andalusian tavern-style décor, extensive and surprisingly tasty menu. Located in the heart of the bustling La Latina area. Open every day, 1pm- 4.30pm, 8pm-12.30pm. Tel: 91 365 8982

Toma c/ Conde Duque, 14 Plaza de España

Creative cuisine in a casual, friendly atmosphere. Lunch served Tuesday to Friday, Dinner served Tuesday to Saturday, brunch served on Sundays. Tel: 91 547 4996

Thai

foodWhere are you going to take your loved one for Valentine’s Day?eat out guide

feb 09 21

Traditional SpanishSpanish

La Tía Cebolla c/ de la Cruz, 27 Sol

Traditional Spanish food, in a traditional Spanish atmosphere, with flamenco music and a terrace right in the centre of Madrid. Try the typical “croquetas de jamón” or the house speciality “Don Paco” dish. Open all day from 10am to 2am. Tel: 91 522 9050

Medina Mayrit c/ Atocha, 14 Sol/Tirso de Molina

enjoy typical Andalusian food, original décor, oriental dance shows and a cultural fusion every day of the year… Not to be missed!! Tel: 90 233 3334 www.medinamayrit.com

Bazaar San Marcos, 35 ( Chueca). Tel: 91 523 1505Casa Mingo Paseo de la Florida, 34 ( Príncipe Pío). Tel: 91 547 7918La Cueva del Faisán Espoz y Mina,15 ( Sol). Tel: 676 287 654A Cuerpo De Rey Hilarión Eslava, 27 ( Moncloa). Tel: 91 549 4338

La Casa del Abuelo Victoria, 12 ( Sol). Tel: 91 521 2319Malaspina Cádiz, 9 ( Sol). Tel: 91 523 4024

Spanish Tapas

Ayala Japón Ayala, 67 ( Lista). Tel: 91 309 5625 Furama Paseo de la Florida, 2 ( Príncipe Pío). Tel: 91 548 7658

Japanese

Circus Noodle Bar c/ Libertad, 13 Chueca

“Let’s Noodle” Madrid’s very first noodle bar. Fast, healthy and fun food served in the heart of Madrid’s Chueca district, in a pleasant and modern atmosphere. Take-away service available. Open Mon- Sun 1pm-1am. Tel: 91 522 3333

House Of Ming Pº de la Castellana, 74 ( G Marañón). Tel: 91 561 9827 Tse Yang Pº Castellana, 22 ( Ruben Dario). Tel: 91 431 1888Zen Central Puigcerdá, 6 ( Serrano). Tel: 91 431 1233

Chinese

Taberna la Romana Real c/ Factor, 8 Ópera/Sol

Authentic Spanish cuisine in the center of Madrid with competitive prices. Specialities in tapas and local dishes along with a wide range of wines from “Bodegas Casagrande” Come and visit our caves! From 1pm to 4pm and from 8:30pm to 12pm Sundays and Mondays evenings closed.Tel: 91 559 0404 www.tabernalaromanareal.com

Antiguo Torre Narigües

What 81st Academy AwardsWhen Sunday 22 February, 1700 local time/Monday 23 February, 0200 CETWhere Kodak Theatre, HollywoodHost Actor Hugh Jackman

EV Top Tips:Best pictureThe Curious Case of Benjamin ButtonBest directorDanny Boyle - Slumdog MillionaireBest actorFrank Langella - Frost/NixonBest actressKate Winslet - The ReaderBest foreign language filmThe Class – FranceBest adapted screenplayFrost/Nixon

OSCARS SPECIALTHE

22 feb 09

film firstfilm first

MillionaireSlumdog

directors: Danny Boyle, Loveleen Tandan (co-director: India) Cast: Dev Patel, Freida Pinto, Madhur Mittal, Anil Kapoor, Irrfan Khan, Mia DrakeSlumdog Millionaire release date (spain): 13 February 2009

You’d have thought that sane director would have avoided the script for Slumdog Millionaire like a dinner date with lucrezia Borgia. a quick synopsis of the

film is enough to tell you that. It’s all about how love-bitten young Indian’s life changes

in a serendipitous heartbeat on an edition of Who Wants to Be a Millionaire on another dusty night in Mumbai. It’s the kind of thing that ageing actors like Jack nicholson are liable to get caught up in,

not, you’d think, Trainspotting director Danny Boyle.

But, as it turns out, Slumdog Millionaire is an unlikely hit. Ten Oscar nominations stands testament to that, alongside the glowing sarcasm of empire Magazine’s Ian nathan, who heralded the film, in quite unique terms, as, ‘’The best British/Indian gameshow-based romance of the millennium.”

There is a tremendous power to Boyle’s film, which flits between the luxurious mansions of Mumbai’s corrupt businessmen and the filth, the chaos and the excitement of the slums. Indian society remains largely unknown to Westerners, and there is enough here to serve as a formidable introduction.

Orphans, murder, organised crime, poverty and horrific scenes

of abuse there may be, but Boyle avoids the temptation to judge a whole society by lofty Western ideals. In each scene there is a savage joke, a spark of life or a brief glimpse into the rich landscape and culture that make it obvious why half of the people I met in the first year of university spent a large portion of their time crowing away about their gap year in the subcontinent.

each question of Jamal Malik’s winning run on the gameshow serves as the introduction to a vivid vignette about the character’s life. Battered by an unlikely history, Jamal’s motivations are not financial, but emotional – as he continues

to scuttle blindly after the girl who won his heart years ago, as the monsoons roared above them and they cowered for

their lives in the slums.

no frivolous flick, Slumdog reveals much about India that is often lost

in the smog of news about surging populations and thriving businesses. Boyle brings an outsiders eye and a wealth of experience to bear – nirpal Dhaliwar writing in The Guardian was

unequivocal in his praise. “I have no doubt that Slumdog Millionaire will encourage many more honest films to be produced in India,” he wrote.

“But they should be ashamed that it took a white man to show India how to do it.”

WO

RDS

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ORe

Ten Oscar nominations and a string of awards already attest to Slumdog Millionaire’s pedigree. peter Moore went to see it and find out what all the fuss was about. also, see his and Jade conroy’s predictions for the 81st academy awards.

Preview

Sunday 22 February

WORDS by jaDe COnROy

Begin with a red carpet. then stir in a spoonful of a-list celebrities and glaze with a multitude of glamorous gowns. what do you get? the oscars’ 81st annual awards ceremony. awards season is in full swing and we are about to discover who will stand victorious. nominations are to be revealed on thursday and so i have been given the ever so difficult task of naming who i think will win.

Now, I’m no film buff, but anyone can tell you that the Critics’ Choice Awards and the Golden Globes both serve as sound indicators as to who will walk away with one of those sought-after little gold statuettes in February. So at least I have a little bit of help.

Although the regular contenders were nominated, a few underdogs managed to prevail. British film Slumdog Millionaire not only won five prizes at the Critics Choice awards but walked away with Best Motion Picture, Best Screenplay and Best Director at the Golden Globes. Furthermore to its 10 nominations here, the film has been nominated for 11 Baftas and so I think it’s safe to say that director Danny Boyle will see his film receive at least one Academy Award this year.

For Best Actor, I am inclined to say that Brad Pitt is going to win for his heartbreaking performance in The Curious Case of Benjamin Button, although Mickey Rourke managed to collect the prize at the Golden Globes. However, critics have been praising Sean Penn’s commendable role in Milk so it could be a close call, especially with Frank Langella as a strong player in Frost/Nixon. The other nominee is Richard Jenkins for his role on The Visitor.

Should Brad Pitt lift the statuette and his partner Angelina Joiie win the award for Best Actress for some beautiful acting in Changeling, there will be quite a party in the Brangelina household. Kate Winslet is heavily tipped to walk away with the Oscar, but there was some surprise that the nomination came for her part in The Reader and not for her reunion opposite Leonardo DiCaprio in Revolutionary Road. She has, however, been overlooked in the past and bot Anne Hathaway and veteran actress Meryl Streep are fancied by some critics.

If I had to put money on one winner for this month’s ceremony, it would have to be Ms Winslet. She scooped up two Golden Globes for Best Actress and Best Supporting Actress for her performances in Revolutionary Road and The Reader. On winning, Kate gave an emotional speech, stating, “You’ll have to forgive me. I have a habit of not winning things”. She’s not wrong; Kate has missed out on five Academy Awards to date. Well, she has certainly made up for it and it seems as though the English-born star is on a home run.Heath Ledger was honoured with the award for Best Supporting Actor for his captivating role as the Joker in The Dark Knight. This has consolidated speculation that Ledger is set to receive a posthumous Oscar. On accepting the award on behalf of Heath, director Chris Nolan gave a poignant speech, saying that, “After Heath passed on, you saw a hole ripped in the future of cinema”.

www.europeanvibe.com feb 09 23

film first

release date: 6 February 2009 release date: 13 February 2009spanish title: Frost contra Nixonspanish title: El curioso caso de Benjamin Button

release date: 13 February 2009spanish title: El lector

release date: 13 February 2009spanish title: Slumdog Millionaire

release date: 20 February 2009release date: 13 February 2009

release date: 20 February 2009 release date: 20 February 2009spanish title: Push

release date: 27 February 2009 release date: 27 February 2009

spanish title: La Pantera Rosa 2

new movie releasesORiGiNAL VeRSiON CiNeMAS (V.O.)

>Alphaville Golem Address: Martín de los Heros, 14Tel: 915 593 836Zone: CentralPrice: 6.80 €Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 & 10)

Rodríguez (Line 3)>Pequeño Cine estudio Address: Magallanes, 1Tel: 914 472 920Zone: ChamberiPrice: 6.50 €Metro: Quevedo (Line 2)

Rodríguez (Line 3)>Princesa Address: Calle de la Princesa, 3Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 888 902Zone: Moncloa-AravacaPrice: Mon-Fri 6.20 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 €Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 & 10), Ventura Rodríguez (Line 3)

Rodríguez (Line 3)>Renoir Cuatro Caminos Address: Raimundo Fernández Villaverde, 10Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 229 122Zone: ChamberiPrice: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 €Metro: Cuatro Caminos (Lines 1, 2 & 6)

>Renoir Plaza de españa Address: Martín de los Heros, 12Tel: 915 414 100 & 902 229 122Zone: CentralPrice: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 €Metro: Plaza de España

Rodríguez (Line 3)>Renoir Princesa Address: Calle de la Princesa, 5, Pje. Martín de los HerosTel: 915 599 872 & 902 229 122Zone: CentralPrice: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 €Metro: Plaza de España (Lines 3 & 10), Ventura Rodríguez (Line 3)

Rodríguez (Line 3)>Renoir Retiro Address: Narváez, 42Tel: 902 229 122Zone: RetiroPrice: Mon-Fri 6.50 €. Sat & Sun 6.80 €Metro: Ibiza (Line 9)

Rodríguez (Line 3)>Verdi Address: Bravo Murillo, 28Tel: 914 473 930Zone: ChamberiPrice: 6.50 €Metro: Canal (Lines 2 & 7), Quevedo (Line 2)

Rodríguez (Line 3)>yelmo Cines ideal Address: Doctor Cortezo, 6Tel: 902 220 922Zone: CentralPrice: 7.10 €Metro: Tirso de Molina (Line 1)

Please note: details of all films are correct at the time of publication.

spanish title: Viernes 13

spanish title: La lista

spanish title: Che: Guerrilla

spanish title: Gran Torino

Win five cinema tickets for you and your friends!yelmo Cine ideal, the biggest original language cinema in Madrid, are giving away five free tickets to see a film of your choice at their theatre in Calle doctor Cortezo. all you have to do is send in your predicted list of academy award winners, covering the sections:

1. Performance by an actor in a leading role

2. Performance by an actor in a supporting role

3. Performance by an actress in a leading role

4. Performance by an actress in a supporting role

5. Best film

send your predictions and contact details in an email entitled “yelmo film Competition” to [email protected] before 22rd february 2009. Good luck to you all!

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sign up at www.europeanvibe.com

sport7th Feb england v italy - Twickenham - 4pm

ireland v France - Croke Park - 6pm 8th Feb Scotland v Wales - Murrayfield - 4pm 14th Feb France v Scotland - Stade de France - 5pm Wales v england - Millennium Stadium - 6:30pm 15th Feb italy v ireland - Stadio Flaminio - 4:30pm 27th Feb France v Wales - Stade de France - 10pm28th Feb ireland v england - Croke Park - 6:30pm Scotland v italy - Murrayfield - 4pm14th mar italy v Wales - Stadio Flaminio - 5pm

Scotland v ireland - Murrayfield - 6pm15th mar england v France - Twickenham - 4pm21st mar italy v France - Stadio Flaminio - 3:15pm

england v Scotland - Twickenham - 4:30pm Wales v ireland - Millennium Stadium - 6:30pm

1st Feb AmERICAN FOOTbAll Super Bowl XLIII Arizona Cardinals v Pittsburgh Steelers

FOOTbAll EPL Liverpool v Chelsea Newcastle v Sunderland FOOTbAll La Liga Atletico Madrid v Valladolid

Numancia v Real Madrid Racing Santander v Barcelona2nd Feb FOOTbAll EPL

Man utd v everton7th Feb FOOTbAll EPL

Blackburn v Aston Villa Chelsea v Hull everton v Bolton Man City v Middlesbrough Portsmouth v Liverpool Sunderland v Stoke West Brom v Newcastle

Wigan v Fulham8th Feb FOOTbAll EPL

Tottenham v Arsenal West Ham v Man utd FOOTbAll La Liga Barcelona v Sporting Gijon Real Madrid v Racing Santander Recreativo Huelva v Atletico Madrid

15th Feb FOOTbAll La Liga Atletico Madrid v Getafe Real Betis v Barcelona Sporting Gijon v Real Madrid

17th Feb FOOTbAll EPL Man utd v Fulham

21st Feb FOOTbAll EPL Arsenal v Sunderland

Aston Villa v Chelsea Bolton v West Ham Man utd v Blackburn Middlesbrough v Wigan Stoke v Portsmouth22nd Feb FOOTbAll EPL

Fulham v West Brom Liverpool v Man City Newcastle v everton

FOOTbAll La Liga Barcelona v espanyol Real Madrid v Real Betis Sevilla v Atletico Madrid

23rd Feb FOOTbAll EPL Hull v Tottenham

24th Feb FOOTbAll Champions League Arsenal v Roma Atletico Madrid v FC Porto inter Milan v Man utd Lyon v Barcelona

25th Feb FOOTbAll Champions League Chelsea v Juventus Real Madrid v Liverpool Sporting v Bayern Munich Villarreal v Panathinaikos

28th Feb FOOTbAll EPL Arsenal v Fulham

Chelsea v Wigan everton v West Brom Hull v Blackburn Man utd v Portsmouth Middlesbrough v Liverpool1st mar FOOTbAll Carling Cup

Man utd v Tottenham

SpOrTS DIarY

www.europeanvibe.com24 feb 09

When I was back home in Edinburgh, the party atmosphere that used to surround Six Nations matchdays when Scotland were playing at Murrayfield was always something special. The

general goodwill (though stretched a little more thinly when England came up) between fans and the more level playing field was something I envied as a football fan and which would seduce me to rugby union for the day. Here in Madrid, there’s something about Six Nations days that makes me want to drink Guinness, and luckily there are an abundance of bars that specialise in both

showing the rugby and serving decent Guinness. You do have to work out which ones they are first, though, (the ads in this magazine are a good place to start) as the reply when I tentatively asked in my local barrio bar if they would be showing the 2007 World Cup Final was, “Eh? Never heard anything about it. Real Madrid’s on anyway; football’s boss here.” When I emerge from the pub and the atmosphere of a Six Nations game, the obliviousness to it of the majority of Spaniards always comes as a bit of a shock. How long will we have to wait until Spain join and take the pressure off Italy a little?

luc ciotkowski looks forward to hours of rugby and Guinness in the pub with the return of the Six nations championship. Sports writer harry Watkinson chips in his predictions for the tournament.

WORDS by luC CiOtKOWSKi & haRRy WatKinSOn

Six Nations

WalesSIx NaTIoNS recorD played 45 won 20 drawn 2 lost 23 overall points 42 championships 2 grand slams 2 triple crowns 2

maN To WaTcH: Shane WilliamsBeing last year’s player of the tournament and Wales’ leading try scorer says it all really. He is still at his peak, and though i think it’s unlikely they’ll make it another Grand Slam, i just can’t see anyone else taking the top spot from them this year.

Harry’s prediction: When full-back Lee Byrne and winger Shane Williams are in the mood Wales are the most exciting team in world rugby. Last year’s Grand Slam winners will have been disappointed not to have made more of an impact on the Southern Hemisphere teams in 2008. But a win against Australia in the last of the autumn internationals means they will start this year's Six Nations as favourites.

FranceSIx NaTIoNS recorD played 45 won 33 drawn 0 lost 12 overall points 66 championships 4 grand slams 0

maN To WaTcH: Yannick JauzionJauzion’s quality is undoubted and any of the other five competing nations would be delighted to have him at centre. France, though, are a little mal dans sa peau and, in my opinion, need another year and possibly a change of coach to return to the top of the pile.

Harry’s prediction: Since england sent them crashing out of the 2007 Rugby World Cup at the semi-final stage France have been mediocre at best. A disappointing third place in last years Six Nations was followed by a record defeat Down under. However, only a fool would write the French off and the neutrals can only hope Les Bleus are in the mood to chuck it around in 2009.

scotlandSIx NaTIoNS recorD played 45 won 13 drawn 1 lost 31 overall points 27 championships 0 grand slams 0 triple crowns 0

maN To WaTcH: Chris PatersonThe world’s best kicker is something every nation glances at jealously. Paterson will have the chance to increase his Scottish record-breaking feats in the 2009 Six Nations, but his kicking and a couple of great team performances won’t be sufficient to carry away a championship victory. Scotland could finish anywhere between second and fifth for me. i hope they can take advantage of the current weakness of the other sides.

Harry’s prediction: The extent of Scotland’s ambitions in recent years has been to try and avoid defeat at the hands of italy and maybe sneak a win against one of the rest. But much improved performances against the All Blacks and South Africa suggests the Jocks may have a little more to offer this time around. Wales first up at Murrayfield will tell us a lot about who will be crowned as the Kings of europe.

englandSIx NaTIoNS recorD played 45 won 30 drawn 0 lost 15 overall points 60 championships 3 grand slams 2 triple crowns 2

maN To WaTcH: Danny CiprianiBags of talent: fast, a great kicker and an intelligence of vision that england would love to share out with their other players if they could. He will get better with experience, but there just aren’t the players around him for this year to be a winning experience.

Harry’s prediction: The Red Rose hit a new low before xmas after being drubbed by the three Southern Hemisphere teams. Where once their line-up was full of world-class players you now find plenty of brawn but very little rugby brain. To challenge, Martin Johnson needs to make some inspired selections and have pin-up fly-half Danny Cipriani deliver the goods.

irelandSIx NaTIoNS recorD played 45 won 31 drawn 0 lost 14 overall points 62 championships 0 grand slams 0 triple crowns 3

maN To WaTcH: Declan Kidneyit may seem a very odd choice to pick the coach as man to watch in a rugby team, but i think Kidney’s man management and motivational skills could be the difference between pushing for the championship and a collapse like in the last World Cup. i believe a poor start against France would spell disaster and their only role would be to upset someone else’s championship. On the other hand, a positive result in the first game and some big performances from the old masters could make them Wales’ only challenger.

Harry’s prediction: Fresh blood is desperately needed in the irish line-up but in its absence the golden generation of O’Connell, O’Driscoll, O’Gara and friends will be taped up and sent unto the breach once more. if they can knock off england and France at Croke Park then ireland may yet be still be in with a shout come the final weekend.

italySIx NaTIoNS recorD played 45 won 6 drawn 1 lost 38 overall points 13 championships 0 grand slams 0

maN To WaTcH: Marco BortolamiBortellami’s power and sheer commitment is what epitomises italy’s danger factor. The other teams know that italy will trip one of them up, but who is going to come a cropper this time?

Harry’s prediction: For the italians one win makes for a respectable campaign, two and it’s party time. expect the italians to make life difficult for england at Twickenham on the opening day before returning to Rome to play three of their final four games. Beat the French in March and everyone will go home happy.

Fixtures

sport

26 feb 09

You can count the number of great sporting comebacks on one hand. Basketball legend Michael Jordan was one. he retired in

1993 saying he was bored winning (I know, it’s tough at the top) and fancied chancing his arm at baseball. Two years later he was back on court for the chicago Bulls winning nBa titles having realised that being the greatest was not quite such a chore after all. legendary middleweight Sugar ray leonard returning in 1987 after a three-year break to beat Marvin hagler, the best boxer in the world at the time, was also pretty impressive stuff. and now it is lance armstrong’s turn to try and successfully turn back the clock. however, shooting hoops when pushing 40 is one thing but riding for eights hours a day in 40 degree heat straight up a mountain is a whole different ball game. For a man at the peak of his powers this is a gruelling sport, but for a 37-year-old to come back smacks of masochism. his decision seemingly made little sense – having been superman for so long why come back and run the risk of being seen by the world as a mere mortal? But then little about the last ten years of lance armstrong’s life has made much sense. In 1997 he was diagnosed with testicular cancer and given a 50/50 chance of survival. By July 1999 he had completed a miraculous physical and sporting recovery to win the Tour de France, the world’s

most prestigious and physically challenging bike race. and then just to prove it wasn’t a fluke he came back and won the thing six more times on the bounce. amazing. however, within modern sport and especially professional cycling there are few true believers left. Instead of reverence outstanding performances are now greeted with the question, “What is he taking?” The Tour de France in particular has been ravaged by drug scandals and almost destroyed after years of its leading riders being exposed as blood doping before, during or after the event. The 2007 race was a complete disaster when the leader, Danish cyclist Michael rasmussen, was forced out of the race after it was revealed he had missed a number of out-of-competition drug tests. This followed two of the leading teams, astana and codif, withdrawing after one of their riders testing positive for blood doping. 2006 was not much better, with the american cyclist Floyd landis taking the Yellow Jersey in paris only to be stripped of the

title after tests revealed abnormally high levels of testosterone in his body. and in late august 2005, one month after his seventh consecutive Tour victory, the French sports newspaper, L’Équipe, claimed evidence that armstrong had had used epO in the 1999 Tour de France. The claim was based on urine samples archived by the French national laboratory for Doping Detection for research. armstrong denied using epO and he was not penalised because of the lack of a duplicate sample. however, despite never having tested positive, suspicion has always

lingered around the Texan’s achievements. and so the want to try and clear his name once and for all is almost certainly one of the reasons why armstrong

has decided to subject himself to physical

torture in 2009. The man himself begs to differ, saying his primary motive to be back on the bike is to raise awareness of his global cancer foundation. Me, I

think it is a combination of the two, plus the fact

that he simply misses the buzz of being a top class athlete competing at the highest level. and the clincher may be the feeling that the three Tour de France’s held since his retirement are races he could have comfortably won. no disrespect of course to 2006 winner Oscar pereiro, 2007 champion alberto contador and 2008 victor carlos Sastre, all of whom coincidentally are Spanish. however, he clearly believes that at the age of 37 he is still more than a match for all three of them. The question now is whether contador, pereiro, Sastre or anyone else has the ability and the belief to take on armstrong. The class act amongst the three amigos is alberto contador, who still lives in his home town of pinto outside Madrid. In 2008, contador became only the fifth cyclist, and the first Spaniard to win the three great Tours of France, Italy and Spain. even more impressively he was the youngest to do so (25) and in the shortest period of time (14 months). however, his Tour De France victory in 2007 was overshadowed by rasmussen leaving the race while leading and in 2008 he was unable to even compete after his astana team were refused entry to the race. For contador, the Tour de France will be his focus but the waters have been muddied by armstrong joining his astana team. Ultimately, there is room for only one boss and the $64,000 dollar question is who that will be when racing gets under way in France in July. also from Madrid is the 2008 Tour de France winner carlos Sastre. Unlike contador, his great success came much later in life with a succession of top ten finishes in the three major tours being a prelude to last year’s triumph at the age of 32. Sastre is a formidable climber but has always struggled with a lack of speed on the flat. With contador and armstrong planning to line up in this year’s Tour, we will see just how worthy a winner Sastre was last year. The Galician Oscar pereiro’s victory in 2006 was a real surprise having not finished higher than tenth in the Tour before or since and with little other form to speak of. pereiro is famed for his aggressive riding and it was his breakaway in Stage 13 of the 2006 Tour that won him 30 minutes on the race favourites and ultimately his victory. however, he did not finish in 2008 after breaking his arm and it is unclear whether he will even be leading his own team come July. There are of course other contenders out there to force the old man back into retirement for good. But ironically the greatest challenge for armstrong is indeed likely to come from contador, who he shares a team with and has spent the winter training with. But what do they say again about keeping your friends close and your enemies (purely in racing terms) even closer? It will be fascinating to see how it pans out.

after three year’s out of the sport, one of the greatest and most controversial cyclists came out of retirement in January. lance armstrong is back on his bike and once again has his eyes fixed on making sporting history, and it is Spain’s finest who may be the ones to pay the heaviest price. harry Watkinson considers the cycling master’s new attempt to defy the odds.WORDS by haRRy WatKinSOn

Return of the King?


www.europeanvibe.com jan 09 27

WORDS by helen MaCRae WORDS by VaneSSa haRRiS

Valentine’s Day

opiniongirl’s,A

1 2

Saint

culture

Ihave never been a big fan of holidays. I would like to be. I am envious of those who buy dur-ing sales with thoughts of future gift exchanges in mind. I would like to let my inner Martha

Stewart shine, but she remains deep inside my hardened, anti-celebratory soul. But, the hallmark flavour of the month forces me to reexamine holidays and, dare I say, be inspired to hoist a flag of red and white dollies to as many rooftops as Gallardón would allow. See, recently, I took the plunge. not that plunge. This is the one where I change my facebook status to está en una relación, not the one where I rock a diamond ring. come on people, first things first. I even got a little Martha Stew-art-y recently for christmas when I spent the equivalent of five teaching hours on a cashmere sweater and felt warm and fuzzy inside as the quiz-zical salesman at el corte Inglés was wrapping it up. how can Spanish guys hit on you with a straight face after they just helped you pick out a gift that you repeatedly said was for your novio? So, for someone who does not make a big fuss out of holidays, this year’s valentine’s Day has great ex-pectations. The state of the world’s economy calls for some measure of austerity. Meaning, new sports car: totally out of the question. But Obama is pressuring me to make some changes I can believe in, which, in my case, means at least a card with some after eight mints stuffed inside. Though I feel that is not enough. and although my

christmas purchase suggests a shallow attempt to improve my boyfriend’s wardrobe, it worked, so, cashmere scarf this time around? aye, but this is valentine’s Day. It’s-the-thought-that-counts day! Since v Day falls on a Saturday this year, we have the whole day for v-themed activities. Get your mind out of the gutter! I am refer-ring to breakfast in bed. Whatever breakfast item your guy likes, put it on the menu. later, we will take a walk down to the teleférico next to Balcón de rosales, pay the five euros per ticket and cable our way to casa de campo. There we will eat the pre-packed picnic I brought, bottle of champagne optional. If he appears despondent or aloof to my efforts, I will pull out the emer-gency cashmere scarf. If he seems to be delighted with my new-found appreciation for holidays, I will promptly return the emergency scarf to el corte Inglés and buy some new earrings. as my well-executed afternoon winds down, I will hope that he has something planned for the evening. If not, my facebook status is in danger of changing back to soltera and I am in danger of join-ing my single friends and chanting whatever anti-boyfriend tirade they have thought up. But, v Day only holds as much importance as you would like it to hold. If there is someone important in your life, make the day special. I think this might be my best v Day ever.

Acouple of months ago I went to Scotland to visit my sister, who’s studying for her phD at Dundee University. as I strolled up princes Street in edin-

burgh early on Saturday morn-ing, on the way to catch the train (even further) up north, I noticed a couple locked in a passionate embrace, in full view of everyone going about their business. I was quite surprised at first, given that Scots, like most British people, aren’t renowned for such public displays of affection. But then I saw the cover of guidebook the girl was clutching, which said “escocia”. When the average Spanish couple can’t keep their hands off each oth-er on a normal day, it does make you wonder what they’ll be like on the 14th of this month. valentine’s Day is bad enough in the UK when you’re single: card shops are full-to-bursting with fluffy hearts/teddies/assorted crap, restaurants are packed with couples making eyes at each other over candlelit dinners, and all your coupled-up friends magically disappear off for the evening, leaving you in front of the Tv with only the cat and a bottle of gin for company, à la Bridget Jones. The thought that in Spain things could be even worse is quite a depressing one. In reality though, it isn’t that bad. last year I went

out in Madrid with another single mate in order to point and laugh at the happy couples (we didn’t look bitter at all) but it turns out valen-tine’s Day really isn’t a big deal over here. There isn’t so much of a card-giving culture (as testified by the supremely rubbish selection at el corte Inglés), and when I quizzed my students on how they were celebrating, nobody really seemed that bothered. perhaps it’s because they’ve got so many other fiestas during the year to distract them. Things are even better in Mexico for singletons, where El Día de San Valentín is popularly named El Día del Amor y la Amistad (love and friendship). When I lived there my students (male and female) bought me chocolates, then we all had a dance at an open-air party by the university. now that’s what I call inclusive.

More often than not I’ve given my boyfriends the elbow

before valentine’s Day rolls around, so it’s always been a low-key to non-existent affair for me. I guess if Johnny Depp just hap-pened to swing by Ma-drid I’d let him take me

out to a swanky restaurant followed by some expensive cocktails. To be honest though, I’d probably have

much more fun going out with a bunch of mates

for a curry in lavapiés, then getting battered in some grotty little club until 8am.


BackBottle

culture

Astudent once told me that La Fontana de Oro pub (between Sol and Sevilla) is a handy and favoured watering hole for members of the Cortes. So

much so that many of them spend more time there wetting their whistles than doing their jobs round the corner in parliament. Lucky enough, as yer man reckons, that back in ’81 the pub got a call telling the parliamentary majority (who were there) to stay put. A madman and 200 other Guardia Civiles had just burst into the Congress of Deputies and tanks were surrounding the place in an apparent coup attempt. As most of the polits were in La Fontana, the coup failed! Cute, but the coup was a little more complicated than that. The events of 23 February were a culmination of events surrounding the development of Spain’s fledgling parliamentary democracy. Ultimately it shored up that system’s development and was followed the next year by the election of the centre-left PSOE. The king, Juan Carlos, also came out of proceedings with a strongly reinforced reputation and an early retirement clearly in sight. His private life has also been kept out of the press in a seemingly tacit agreement, supposedly as a result of his decisiveness. He’s not the type you would expect to see shamefully shuffling down Calle Montera talking to that street’s infamous ladies, but it’s alleged that this may be closer to the truth than you think. So what happened on 23 February, 1981 and why? Lieutenant-Colonel Antonio Tejero, born in Malaga in 1932, was a disillusioned Civil Guard. He had

40 years of service but the final five had seen a lot of change. 1978 was especially harrowing for the Right with the Communist Party’s legalisation and increasing paramilitary activity in the Basque Country. The further freeing up of the Francoist regime was ongoing and becoming unbearable for the ‘fachas’. From the blue skies of Francoism to the grey mists of democracy, Tejero had come to believe that something needed to be done to save Spain from the twentieth century. In 1978, he and several others had plotted a coup in the Galaxia Café (now Van Gogh at the bottom of Fernandez de los Ríos). Luckily, a soldier and a policeman, also present, informed their superiors and Operación Galaxia was foiled. This led to seven-month sentences and no loss of rank, a veritable slap on the wrists. Indeed, one of Tejeros’ coaccused, Major Ricardo Saenz Ynestrillas was promoted to Commander afterwards. This leniency seems to have emboldened Tejero to make another attempt. You may find a pattern emerging in Spanish politics here concerning a distinct relationship with (or interference from) the military. This is where the pronunciamento comes into the story. This is a declaration of opposition by army officers to a government. The rest of the army is then left to decide who to side with in a no-man’s-land type situation. It happened in the days of the Second Republic when General José Sanjurjo attempted an officers’ rebellion in 1932 (the Sanjurjada). This failed and set the scene for the 1936 coup that led to the Civil War. Sanjurjo actually died in a plane crash then when, during the

coup he overloaded the plane in which he was returning from exile with clothes. When the pilot warned the rich man of pushing his heavy load of possessions into the eye of the needle which was the plane. The nervous aviator was told, “I need to wear proper clothes as the new Caudillo of Spain”. Whether Tejero was going to live up to the arrogant flamboyancy of his ‘facha’ forefathers is debatable. What’s for sure is that his over-the-top antics left their own flamboyant imprint in the minds of the Spanish people. 23 February, 1981 was a long night anyway for the deputies of the Cortes and was about to get longer. The preceeding year had seen a lot of governmental upheaval. UCD prime minister Adolfo Suárez was under attack with a censure motion from the PSOE and an internal power struggle within his own political bloc. Suárez finally resigned at the end of January so a new prime minister had to be elected. Leopoldo Calvo Sotelo had been proposed as a replacement, but a previous attempt at a parliamentary majority had failed. Another vote was scheduled for the 23rd, but so was the Chapuza (botched coup)… 6:30pm: A group of armed golpistas (coup conspirators) led by Tejero storm the congress. Tejero takes the rostrum, shots are fired and every deputy, bar three make for the carpet. Defence minister Manuel Gutiérrez stands up and orders the plotters to stand down. Suárez remains seated and Communist leader Santiago Carrillo lights up a cigarette, unperturbed by events.

Just after, Jaime Milans del Bosch, Captain-General of the 3rd Military Region orders tanks onto the streets of Valencia. General Torres Rojas attempts to take control of the army’s Brunete division but fails. The plotters’ attempt to take control of parts of Madrid, including media outlets, fails. The plan was to await the orders of a “competent military authority”. This would basically be the approval of King Juan Carlos, the head of the army. Orders of a sort arrive, via the TV, just after 1pm when the uniformed king makes a speech condemning the coup. The pronunciamento from this point is a failure. The rest of the night sees a trickle of plotters giving up and the congress deputies (who were held hostage) being released. Tejero finally puts Franco’s ghost to rest and surrenders at midday the next day. He and Milans del Bosch were eventually sentenced to 30 years in jail. He was the last of 30 convicted conspirators to be released, in 1996, and still occassionally rants about Spanish politics. Though nowadays his pen is his sword and his battleground is the letters page of Melilla Hoy, the local newspaper of one of Spain’s North African territories. The aftermath also saw Calvo Sotelo’s election as prime minister and the next year parliamentary democracy took full control as Felipe González of the PSOE was elected to the position. But a lot of questions arose and still remain. Laws were passed (The LOAPA Law) limiting the powers of the Autonomous Communities, something regional nationalists have claimed was a concession to the military. But the big question is the king. What exactly, as army head, did Juan Carlos know about the coup? It has been suggested that he knew of Tejero’s plans but let the Tejerazo go ahead in a bid to test the parliament’s strength and gain a favourable impression. The question of General Alfonso Armada comes into play here. It is thought that Tejero was acting on the orders of two higher-ranking officers, who included Armada. This general had entered the Cortes at midnight on 23 February claiming to be the requested competent military authority, but, apparently, Tejero sent him on his way by assaulting

him. One theory is that Armada was acting on the orders of Juan Carlos, though many think he was opportunistically attempting to install himself as a new Caudillo. But we’ll

probably never be sure… And that’s it. We’ll never know. The art of the coup d’état. Being on the right side and concealing your involvement during an uncertain time of plots and power shifts. If you want to see one in full-swing, watch Inside the Coup, the chance documentary by two RTE film makers who, by complete luck, were inside the Venezuelan presidential palace in 2002 during the failed coup against Hugo Chávez. Seeing the plotters, the side-switchers, the victims, the victors close up and finally one million people rising up, and the happiness draining from the faces of the conspirators. It certainly demonstrates the fickleness of power.

28 years ago this month, Spain got one almighty scare as the spectre of military dictatorship rose from the dead like the monster in a classic horror film. If you visit the Spanish parliament, you can still see the bullet holes which attest the fragility of the country’s fledgling democracy at the beginning of the eighties. Martin Quinn starts his story in the pub.

Staking the Corpse of Franco

WORDS by MaRtin Quinn

23-F

culture

feb 09 29www.europeanvibe.com

WORDS by peteR MOORe

BackBottleonthe

botellón

cokecola

icture the scene. The time is morning, the month is June, and I’m strolling along la Calle de Gaz-

tambide, a typical street in Madrid’s western quarter, beneath a cheerful sun that’s already beaming down on the city with alarming strength. My mind is clear, my spirits are high, and the only worldly thing that could possibly bother me is the presence of the overweight pigeons, trotting aim-lessly across the street, and getting stuck under my feet.

Then, in a matter of seconds, the course of the day that had began so brightly swivels on a pivot, as I receive a text message from the chief designer at european vibe Magazine informing me that one of my pieces from the last issue has been featured in 20 Minutos newspaper. all of a sudden, I’m cast into the middle of my very own media storm.

20 Minutos, for those of you that don’t know, forms an important or-gan of the Spanish press. Just which organ I’ll leave it to you to decide, but suffice to say that each day in the 20 Minutos calendar is characterised by a different headline of some wild sensation, intended to shock its readership into outrage or action. Delivered free into the reader’s hand outside metro stations, thousands of madrileños were greeted that

June morning with the incredulous headline: “Una revista para guiris aconseja el ‘botellón’ como opción cultural”. (a magazine for guiris rec-ommends the botellón as a cultural alternative.)

To explain this properly I need to rewind, to an afternoon a few weeks earlier when I wrote an article about that uniquely Spanish phenomenon, the botellón. I thought it was a silly article, and little more than that. amongst a number of odd facts, I’d managed to include how the norwegians had invented the cheese slicer and the hand grenade, the Scots had invented the telephone and the Spanish the mop and bucket, the submarine and, finally getting to the point of the piece, the botellón.

Then I’d dashed through the rudi-ments of a typical botellón, and how their very existence, especially in sites of historical significance, would have scandalised Franco to the very core. I’d also talked of the dangers they presented: thou-sands of unsupervised people with access to potent alcoholic concoctions, in situa-tions that were wholly incontrollable. I then rounded off with this final paragraph, which

I’ll quote in full for future reference:‘That said, a botellón is far more rep-resentative of Spanish culture than a bullfight or even flamenco. So, if you haven’t hung out with the botellón crowd yet, and you want to know how Spanish culture really works, get yourself out there. Because you know that when you find the botellón, you have found the party. And in Spain that’s what really matters.’

In a way, it’s nice to enflame opinion and excite debate. after all at the root of all writers must lie a desire to be read, if not, then why bother in the first place? But there was something contrived in the 20 Minutos article, written by a journalist named Juan carlos Galindo, which was annoy-ing. any moderate points had been stripped from the report entirely: I’d been painted as some dumb twenty first century hedonist, attempting to be some breed of new-millennium prophet, advocating alcohol for all, six evenings a week.

Worst of all, in a piece of shoddy journalistic standards, was the by-line, which ran: “Mejor que el flamenco”, which, at absolute best, must be a terrible translation of the first sentence from the passage above. Still, the 20 Minutos feature had already run and within hours people were airing their views through just about every channel they could.

By lunchtime, the 20 Minutos message board had been filled with people screaming ‘viva el botellón,’ whilst others were scandalised that an ill-educated foreigner could ever imagine that it was the best thing about Spanish culture. The following day we were interviewed on the radio network Cadena Ser about it; the day after, the Blogosphere caught hold of the topic; and by the end of the week, El Pais and a number of television chat shows had seized hold of the issue. Testament to the power of the global media: during the course of the week. the 20 Minutos article managed to get translated into just about every language in Iberia, with half the Spain taking it as the spark for a debate about binge drinking, and the other half cheering them-selves up by taking the proverbial dump on my mother’s head.

Twenty months on and it’s worth returning to that botellón article, ostensibly to correct a number of mis-conceptions created by the keyboard of Mr Galindo, but of equal impor-tance to clarify precisely what I meant in the paragraph quoted above.

Firstly, I don’t view the botellón as being the greatest cul-tural achievement of the Spanish. Spain has much else of which to be proud: there’s the wealth of artists from lorca to picasso, there’s the myriad traditions of the pueblo and there’s the host of different regions, with cultures as deep as they

are varied. To define Spain by the botellón would be about as silly as defining Britain by the picnic.

Secondly, I’m happy to stand by the idea that a botellón is more represent-ative of Spanish culture than bullfight-ing or flamenco. after all, intellectual cowardice is the biggest enemy of the writer. Whilst going to watch a bull-fight or a late night in a flamenco bar are grandiose exhibitions of Spanish culture, I believe that there remains something about a botellón which, for young foreigners (to whom the article was originally directed) in Spain, is far more accessible.

learning a new culture and a new lan-guage is all about joining in. Botellónes provide any new arrivals to Madrid with the perfect excuse to do this. Few people go along to a botellón with the express intention of getting drunk. people go to meet friends, to chat, to argue and to joke. In a way, a botellón forms the perfect introduction to an open society, and an excellent op-portunity to sharpen your language skills in an informal setting. What’s more, a botellón is a shared cultural experience, which knits together the diversities of Spanish youth culture. You can find botellónes in cities from Bilbao to cádiz. There is something admirable in them, a suggestion that you don’t have to be herded up in a bar like cattle, and you don’t have to pay through the nose for drink.

For meteorological reasons, a botel-lón is something that could never happen in my country, the United Kingdom, but it would also be im-possible because of our culture. I’m always reminded of a passage from George Orwell’s Down and Out in Paris and London:

“It’s curious how one does not notice things. I had been in London in-numerable times, and yet till that day I had never noticed one of the worst things about London – the fact that it cost money even to sit down. In Paris if you had no money and could not find a public bench, you would sit on the pavement. Heaven knows what sitting on the pavement would lead to in London – prison probably.”

In comparison, a botellón can be viewed positively as an expression of Spanish liberal values, a love of the outdoors, an ingrained sense of collective freedom, and the love of being part of a group. Unlike the UK, in Spain the streets belong to the people; they’re not merely the private fiefdom of businesses and politicians. and whilst bullfights are attended by less than ten percent of the total population, and flamenco stems from such tangled origins that it is difficult to define as singularly ‘Spanish’, I’m happy to suggest that the humble botellón, in a wholly positive manner, is more representative of the Spanish way of life. That’s not to suggest that it’s “Mejor que el flamenco” – because that, as Mr Galindo probably under-stands, would be a matter of taste, and that wasn’t what I was writing about in the first place.

P

a bit of culture

HAVE YOU EVER BEEN ON THE “BIG BOTTLE”?So, everyone knows that it is the northern Europeans who have the binge drinking problem; whereas the Spanish sip their wine slowly and drink to enjoy and not to get drunk. Whatever.

So, chatting away the other day, we got round to inventions. �e Scottish invented the telephone, the English invented the fire extinguisher, a Norwegian friend of mine told me that they had invented the cheese slicer and the hand grenade. �en we got around to the Spanish. After five minutes of intense thought, my friend Juan had only managed mop

and bucket (obviously forgetting the all important submarine and lollipops), when he shrugged his shoulders and said, “Well, I suppose you could count the ‘botellón’.”

Botellón is one of those fantastic words which translates eccentrically into English as “big bottle”. �e chances are that having spent a bit of time in Spain, you will have quite literally bumped into one of them. �e idea is pretty simple: you go to the local Chinese shop and buy as much cheap alcohol as you possibly can, sit down with some friends and drink, drink, drink. Peak time for the botellón is between 9-11pm before people head off to the “discotecas” for a few “copas”.

Interestingly too, this is a new phenomenon. Nothing would have upset General Franco more than the thought of thousands of young people sitting around in historical sites such as the Plaza Dos de Mayo, indulging in unproductive and uncontrolled hedonism. However, the spread of the botellón across Spain since its inception in the 1990s, has been so unrelenting that it is now as vital a part of Spanish youth culture as starting smoking and hiding your significant other from your parents.

�e Plaza Dos de Mayo, Parque del Oeste and Calle Barceló are all favourite spots for the botellón crowd, who are generally between the ages of 16 and 24. Drinking in the streets is officially illegal in Spain, but trying to enforce the law has proven almost impossible. In Seville last March 6,000 people gathered in a single plaza in order to celebrate the end of their exams in one of the biggest ever recorded botellónes. �e local police called the situation “impossible” to control.

In fact, the botellón has become the nemesis of almost all of the town councils in Spain. �e rubbish and waste left in their wake can sometimes take hours to clean, and many people are starting to avoid certain areas because of the smell left behind. Emergency services in Madrid have also reported a staggering increase in “39s” (alcohol intoxication cases) during

the past four years. It is often the younger teens who find that the liberal atmosphere of the botellón can have dangerous results. �e air is often full of the thick, sweet smell of marijuana, and alcohol can be purchased easily from the mobile bars of wandering Chinese street peddlers. Often the alcohol is strong, with many people favouring the clumsy mixture of cheap wine and Coca Cola known as “calimocho”. �at said, a botellón is far more representative of Spanish culture than a bullfight or even flamenco. So, if you haven’t hung out with the botellón crowd yet, and you want to know how Spanish culture really works, get yourself out there. Because you know that when you find the botellón, you have found the party. And in Spain that’s what really matters.

TEXT: PETER MOORE

25www.europeanvibe.com

INFORMATION BOX – BOTELLÓN What? An outdoor party in a public place with cheap alcohol and lots of friends. When? Friday or Saturday night. Who? Young people who are too young for the pub, or too poor to pay pub prices. Where? Any public place in a large major city, preferably a park or square. Why? Why not?

…and drink to enjoy…Notice how in Spanish, the verb disfrutar (to enjoy) goes with the preposition de. For example: We really enjoyed the course. = Disfrutamos mucho del curso. �ey enjoyed the party. = Disfrutaron de la fiesta.

language tip

>

MAP OF BOTELLÓN IN MADRID

Casa de CampoRetiro

Atocha

Castellana

The existence of a youth binge-drinking culture in Spain is something impossible to deny. The existence of the Spanish youth culture phenomenon, the botellón, is something impossible to deny. Interview any 100 Spaniards between the ages of 15 and 30 and you will find that doing a botellón is more common than going to a bullfight as a free time activity (unless you interview them in las ventas bullring).however, as foreigners, it seems that we are not allowed to make that observation. peter Moore’s light-hearted look at the botellón as a typically Spanish cultural experience in a european vibe article created a media storm in June 2007. 18 months after ‘quotes’ and ‘translations’ from his article hit the national headlines and left many Spanish enraged, we give him the chance to answer back.

a botellón hangoverbotellónbotellón

cokecola20minut

Paula lleva varios meses chateando con un chico por Internet y siente una especial atracción por él a pesar de que nunca se han visto. Él también parece estar interesado. Paula ha decidido dar el primer paso y declararle lo que siente por él. Le ha invitado a cenar la noche de San Valentín. Han quedado en un restaurante.

Paula: Hola Henry. ¿Qué tal? Tenía muchas ganas de conocerte.

Henry: Paula, hola. Gracias por la invitación. Yo también tenía ganas de verte.

Paula: ¿Qué pedimos? Henry: Un poco de vino para empezar. ¿Te parece

bien? Paula: Perfecto Henry: Bueno, cuéntame algo sobre ti. me dijiste

que tenías algo muy importante que decirme.

Paula: ¿Qué te cuento? Soy de Sevilla, estoy trabajando en Madrid. Bueno, ya hemos hablado de todo esto en el chat. Tú eres americano ¿verdad?

Henry: Sí, de Boston. Paula: ¿Y por qué viniste a España? ¿para aprender español? Henry: Bueno, además porque mi novia vive aquí. Paula: ¿vive? ¿Quieres decir “vivía”? Henry: ¿Perdona? No, vive aquí, en la calle

Gaztambide. Paula: ¡Serás cabrón! Este es el peor día de San Valentín

de mi vida.

Yo también Yo no. Solo quiero ser tu amigo

Voy a... quedarme en casa salir a cenar

Voy a... darle una sorpresa a mi pareja

Voy a... declararme a mi compañera de piso

Me encantaNo me gusta nada

Nada Un perfume Un viaje a Lisboa

Te quiero

Feliz San Valentín

¿Qué vas a hacer en San Valentín?

¿Qué piensas de San Valentín?

¿Qué te han regalado en San Valentín?

Diálogo

Expresiones útiles

¿ME quiErE? ¿no ME quiErE?

El día de San Valentín Vocabularioregalo > gift Corazón > heart ramo de flores > bouquet lencería > lingerie Caja de bombones > box of chocolatesCena > dinner vela > candle tarjeta > return asiento > card Cita > date sorpresa > surprise oso de peluche > teddy bear declaración de amor > declaration of love

Intermediate Section

www.europeanvibe.com30 feb 09

Expresiones útiles

the section for learning spanish

dices oyes

EL consuLtorio dE Lingo starDirige tus cartas a [email protected]

hola lingostarLlevo año y medio en mi piso. Al mudarme firmé un contrato por un año y la casera me dijo que se renovaba de forma automática hasta cinco años. El otro día al llegar a casa encontré en el buzón una notificación de mi casera en la que me informaba que tenía que salir del piso en dos semanas. Estoy muy contenta aquí y no quiero dejarlo. ¿Puede echarme? ¿Es legal hacerlo? ¿Dónde puedo ir para pedir más información? Mil graciasSandra

Hola SandraNo es la primera vez que oigo una historia como la tuya. Me parece una vergüenza. No es legal que el casero pueda echarte porque puedes quedarte ahí durante cinco años. Si después de esos cinco años él quiere vender el piso o siemplemente buscar a otra persona puede hacerlo pero mientras tanto,no. Puedes pedir más información en la Agencia Municipal de Alquiler. Encontrarás toda la información en la página web www.munimadrid.es. La oficina más céntrica está en la calle Hortaleza 11.Susana

Querida lingostarMe gustaría hacerte una consulta. Aprendo español por mi cuenta y poco a poco voy mejorando pero hay algo que me parece muy difícil de entender. En inglés se usa muchísimo la voz pasiva y se dicen cosas como “ha sido despedido” o “es dicho por mucha gente”, si las traduzco. En español ¿estas frases son correctas? Yo creo que no. Pero entonces ¿cómo puedo expresarlas? Gracias Becky

Hola BeckyEfectivamente como dices en español no se usa la voz pasiva con tanta frecuencia como en inglés. Por eso tenemos otra forma de expresar estas acciones usando la voz activa. En el primer caso, lo que queremos expresar es que algo ha pasado pero no queremos decir quién es el responsable por eso usamos la forma del plural y la frase queda: Le han despedido de su trabajo. En el segundo caso, es una forma general que sirve para expresar una opinión de muchos pero no de nadie en concreto. Para etso usamos la forma “se”. Vas a escuchar frases como “Se dice”, “se cree” o “se comenta”. Espero haberte ayudado Un abrazo Susana

hola lingostar Llevo unos meses saliendo con una chica española. Ahora que se acerca San Valentín estoy un poco confundido porque ella siempre dice que no le gusta celebrarlo pero no sé qué hacer. No quiero quedar mal con ella si no le compro un regalo pero tampoco quiero hacerle sentir incómoda porque ella no tiene nada para mí. ¿Qué harías tú? Graciaspete

Hola PeteSeguro que no eres el único que tiene esta duda en estos momentos. Es verdad que muchas chicas dicen que no les interesa el día de San Valentín pero en el fondo de su corazón esperan recibir algo, aunque sea un detalle. Mi consejo es que hagas algo para tu chica ese día pero no tiene que ser necesariamente un regalo caro. Puedes dedicarle algo que has escrito tú mismo o prepararle el plato que más le gusta para cenar. Seguro que así se sentirá especial. Buena suerteSusana

una cita a ciEgas**blind date

Useful info: The celebration of Saint Valentine is becoming more and more popular in Spain. However, there are still some people who think it is a commercial trick to make you spend money and aren’t keen on doing anything special on that day. Others find it a little bit cheesy and prefer to surprise their partners some other time of the year. However you feel about Saint Valentine, you will start noticing that the city fills up with red hearts by the beginning of February.

love and be loved!

Advanced Section

La primera vez que viajé a la capital de Eslovenia fue en el 2005, un año después de su entrada en la Unión Europea, cuando todavía había Tólares y la ciudad se abría de manera tímida a la Europa de Occidente. En el trayecto del aeropuerto a la ciudad me quedé con la boca abierta al observar por la ventanilla el paisaje montañoso con restos de nieve combinado con verdes campos. En ese momento supe que era un país del que podría enamorarme. Ese viaje relámpago no me permitió conocer la ciudad con toda la profundidad que me hubiera gustado pero, por suerte, no hace muchos meses pude pasar varios días más en Liubliana y descubrir que mis sospechas no eran infundadas: mi relación con la ciudad no era un rollo de una noche sino una historia de amor duradera.

En este segundo viaje, nada más llegar me invitaron a salir y esa misma noche pude comprobar que los eslovenos viven en la calle a pesar de que el tiempo no siempre es el idóneo para estar fuera. Me enganchó la calidez y la hospitalidad de la gente al instante. ¡En pocas ciudades me he sentido como en casa casi al minuto de estar allí! Cenamos en un restaurante a orillas del río Ljubljanica donde sonaba música latina de fondo y el camarero tuvo el detalle de tomarnos la orden en español. Este lugar forma parte del acogedor paisaje del centro de la ciudad plagada de terrazas tanto en invierno como en verano. La noche se alargó tomando algunas cervezas cerca del río. Y es que si Liubliana es una ciudad viva de día, no defrauda de noche. ¿De dónde sacan los eslovenos tanta energía?- pensaba mientras me tomaba una Lasko (cerveza eslovena muy rica).

Al día siguiente, me desperté con una sonrisa en la boca, tenía ganas de bajar a desayunar y salir a caminar por la ciudad. Eché a andar y mis pasos me llevaron de nuevo hacia el río y allí me topé con el Mercado Central, cerca de la plaza Preseren : hierbas, artesanía, souvenirs y muchas, muchas flores, de todos los colores y tamaños. Comprobé de nuevo la calidez de los eslovenos: varios comerciantes se dirigían a mí en un inglés casi perfecto. Después de las compras seguí mi camino hasta llegar al puente de los Dragones, uno de los cinco que atraviesan la ciudad. Tras la foto obligada, continué hasta el funicular que sube hasta el castillo y que ofrece una vista plena de toda la ciudad en tan solo 3 minutos.La visita a la ciudad me había abierto el apetito así que no me lo pensé dos veces y busqué un restaurante para almorzar. Llevada por los consejos de la camarera probé el minci, tiras finas de pan en forma de pasta que se cocinan hervidas en agua y se fríen con algo de carne de pato, ganso o pavo.

Cansada de callejear y después de una buena siesta, decidí dedicar la tarde a ir de compras. La zona más comercial está en el casco antiguo, donde también se encuentra el Ayuntamiento de la ciudad. Allí encontré tiendas de jóvenes diseñadores, antigüedades y librerías así como gran variedad de zapaterías. Para mi sorpresa, los precios eran bastante más altos que en Madrid por lo que tuve que conformarme con los recuerdos que había comprado por la mañana.

En definitiva, Liubliana es una ciudad con personalidad y pintoresca perfecta para una escapada de fin de semana. No te defraudará.

books

WO

RDS

by p

eteR

MO

ORe

Just about anyone will agree that it’s not been the cheeriest of beginnings to a year. Banks around the world are on their knees, national currencies are nose-diving and swathes of jobs are disappearing like Glen Miller in a storm. so, in a bid to divert attention from armageddon for a minute, i thought that i’d hijack this books section and attempt to get everyone in the mood for valentine’s day.

Holly Golightly is the perfect literary anaesthetic in times like these. Truman Capote’s most enduring and vivid creation, she appears in his novella Breakfast at Tiffany’s, a sassy account of modern day frivolity set in New York in the 1940s. As Valentine’s Day approaches, there is just about enough in Golightly to appeal to all. Beautiful, irresistible, charismatic and urbane, “Holly’s a fragile eyeful of tawny hair and turned up nose, a heartbreaker, a perplexer, a traveller, a tease. She is irrepressibly ‘top banana’ in the shock department, and one of the shining flowers of American fiction.”

Our recollections of Golightly today are inevitably bound up with her famous portrayal by Audrey Hepburn in Blake Edward’s 1961 film. How Hepburn didn’t scoop the Academy Award for Best Actress at that year’s Oscars remains a historical peculiarity (Hepburn eventually lost out to Sophia Loren), but Hepburn did more than enough to sink herself into the pages of Capote’s rich, mellifluous prose and come out with a character that would endure in the popular conscious for decades. Half a century on, and Golightly remains inimitable in literature and instantly recognisable on film, here’s a snippet from Capote:

Guided by a compact mirror, she powdered, painted every vestige of twelve-year-old out of her face. She shaped her lips with one tube, coloured her cheeks from another. She pencilled the rims of her eyes, blued the lids, sprinkled her neck with 4711; attached pearls to her ears and donned her dark glasses; thus armoured, and after a displeased appraisal of her manicure’s shabby condition, she ripped open the letter and let her eyes race through it while her stony small smile grew smaller and harder. Eventually she asked for a Picayune. Took a puff: “Tastes bum. But divine,” she said and, tossing me the letter: “maybe this will come in handy – if you ever write a rat romance. Don’t be hoggy: read it aloud...”

With all the jumpy journalists and anxious businessmen that we have at the beginning of 2009, it would be quite an agreeable antidote to have a character like Golightly featuring on the news bulletins. “Credit crunch?” she’d sigh dismissively. “What a bore. Be an angel won’t you, and do stop going on about the crisis. Everyone’s so boring nowadays; can’t do anything scandalous without ending up all over the papers. Do pass me a cigarette… Smoking ban? – Oh, do light me a cigarette, darling.”

Have a Happy Valentine’s Day Madrid.

Peter Moore brings holly Golightly to 2009 as a st. valentine’s day treat.

Liubliana

Diario de viajes Breakfast at Tiffany’s


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>Clubs

Australian Alumni Association ofSpain Meet, network and socialise with people who have studied or lived in Australia and are now in Spain. [email protected] to receive updates on upcoming events.

The british ladies Association would like to invite English speakers of any nationality (both men and women) to join our association. You will be made very welcome. We meet on the last Tuesday of each month at 10.30am for coffee and a talk by a speaker. The meeting is held in St. George’s Church Hall, c/Nuñez de Balboa 43. There are also other activities and outings as well as a Christmas Bazaar to help raise funds for the local Spanish charities that we support. For more information please contact Frances Bushby on tel: 918 152185 or Sheila Jones on tel: 918 034713. Webpage www.blamadrid.com.

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National information 11818 / 11850 / 11828

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lost and Found: Paseo del Molino, 7 91 527 95 90 Metro: Legazpi

Cancellation of credit cards 90 0 971231 (free call)

Emergencies: 112 National police: 091 municipal police: 092 Complaints by phone: 90 210 2112 /

91 548 8537 (Tourist and foreigner customer service dept)

Teletaxi: 91 371 2131 / 91 371 3711 barajas airport (T1, T2 & T3): 91

305 8343 T4: 90 240 4704 www.aena.es Railway: 902 24 02 02 www.renfe.es 24-hOUR phARmACIES

C/Conde de Peñalver, 27. Tel: 91 402 43 04 Metro: Goya-Lista. C/Ferraz, 13 Tel: 91 547 05 72. Metro: Ventura Rodríguez. C/ Goya, 89 Tel: 91 435 49 58. Metro: Goya. C/ Mayor, 59 Tel: 91 559 23 95. Metro: Sol. C/ Atocha, 46 Tel: 91 369 20 00. Metro: Atocha.

American DentistDr. Ivan Cabrera Santamaria

OFFERS FIRST QUALITY DENTAL CARESPECIALISES IN GENERAL &

COSMETIC DENTISTRY, IMPLANTS AND CONTACT

LENS-THIN VENEERS. ORTHODONTIST FOR CHILDREN

AND ADULTS.Board Certified by the State of Florida (USA)

Licence no: DN0013865Member of “Colegio de Odontólogos” SpainMember of the American Dental Association

Tel: 914 458 916Calle Carranza, 20, 10BMetro San Bernardo


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- numbers indicate Madrid metro lines Cercanías

alcalá de henaresinstituto de Hotelería y Turismo

avenida de américaCentro de estudios internacional - CiS

avenida de la Pazuniversal Music

alonso Cano Club de españolel Cano Taverninternational House FinnegansO’ConnersPasajes

alonso MartínezAreiaBlood BrothersBritish CouncilBritish embassyClub ivyFuniversalLa Parpusa

antón MartínHotel Tryp Atochainti de Orozoe Café

argüellesAlways School of englishStar CaféFinbar’s icade universityenforex

Banco de españa James JoyceTandem

aeropuerto t1-t2-t3Barajas information

BilbaoLa MusaLSi Madrid Molly MalonesSchiller international universityThe Things That you Miss

CallaoCurry’sStudio 54Mercado de la Reina

ChamartínOf. Turismo Chamartín

ChuecaAreiaCircus Noodle Bar

Ciudad universitariaTulane universityuniversitaria Complutense (servicio de informacion)ieS Programme

ColónHard Rock Café

Concha espinaN.y.u.

CuzcoLarry’s Bar Warner

diego de leónBo Finn

esperanzaSony BMG

francos rodríguez universidad Antonio de Nebrija

GoyaCasa del Libro Todo españo

Gran víaCarpe DiemShooters

Gregorio MarañónBooksellersFórmula.Sil

hospital del norteThe Food Hall

iglesiaAnyway A y z Spanish Lang.British Counciluniversity of Mississippi

islas filipinas American Store

la latinaLa Taquería de Birra el estragon

lavapiésCafé BarbieriLa Librería de Lavapies

Manuel BecerraTandoori Station

Metropolitano St. Louis universitySuffolk university

MoncloaAmerican Store european Vibe Office Public House

noviciadoJ & J Books and CoffeeKaboklaScruffy Murphy’s

núñez de BalboaCeltic CrossSt. George’s ChurchuSA embassy

ÓperaAcademia Contacto

Bangkok Beer StationCafé MadridDark Tattooel imperfectoeurekaidiomas Plusinternational BookshopLos Amigos-Backpackers’ Hostel O’Brien’sVanadillozeppelin Viajes

Plaza de españa Actual PlusConnect@Las Mil y una Noches TGi Friday’sSiam

Príncipe PíoHotel Florida NorteLokua

república argentinaTaste of America

retiroele. Madridunidad Medica

rubén darío State university of New york Syracuse universityThe Causewayuniversity of Boston

san Bernardo¡Juan Por Dios! Schiller universityWall Street

santiago BernabéuCrazy MonkeBCGutsirish Rover

sevilla Al Natural

Babylon idiomasCubikTony’s Caféinterpublic internet Centerinti de OroMiauRegina

solArtemisaCine idealC.e.e. idiomasDublinersFontana d’Oro el Piccollino della FarfallaHispania CenterHotel Moderno Hostal Los AmigosMoore’s (Plaza Mayor)NaturbierO’Connell Street O’Neill’sTalking PointTierraVanadio

tetuánOiSe (Academia de español)

tribunal CannibalMercado Fuencarral Moore’s Triskel Tavern

tirso de MolinaCat’s HostelMad Hostel

velázquezenglish Centre Thamesis univ. Rey Juan Carlos

ventura rodríguezLas Mil y una NochesShamrocks irish Bar

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european vibe magazine february 2009

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